Im begging someone help, why could my stators keep going bad they get grounded after some time of riding what could be the problem ? It generates a lot of power like 14v at idle, long time ago everything was good but it generated a lot less power at idle
hi, when I tighten the engineblock screws the crank gets really hard to spin but it spins normally when the screws are loose, do you have any idea why that might happend?
When you tighten them after installing new crank bearings the crank becomes under tension. To get it off take the crankshaft nuts and screw them to the both ends of the crank and then tap the ends of the crank with a hammer a few times (prefere a rubber hammer to prevent damaging the threads ). When the tension goes off you notice it right away by looking at the crank. Also try to tighten the engine block bolts in a cross pattern.
Having a problem with my clutch no matter how many times i adjust the pressure plate and cable the bike stays in gear wit the clutch lever out or in. I have assembled everything correctly but my issue is the clutch is not engaging
It is better to be fixed DURING the tightening so the nut goes tighter but if the inner basket doesn't spin alone after the tightening, then it's a problem. Can you explain a little bit more about that problem?
I have that same problem. From what I have heard the center bolt is supposed to be tightened pretty hard, but it seems to me like that is acctually why the 2 parts "come together as one". I've tried using the washer shown at 9:04 from the old clutch AND from the new clutch, without any difference. I use an Ingersol Rand machine with an internal torque limiter at 75 Nm to tighten it. Now, the security washer that has to be folded up to the nut, should obviously secure its postition. COULD IT BE THAT THE CENTER BOLT IS SUPPOSED TO BE TIGHTENED ENOUGH TO HAVE NO PLAY, BUT STILL NOT VERY HARD???? Or what else could possibly cause this?
A second thought, I consider the play on the axle fitted to the enginge fairly large. Would that play perhaps be the reason for why my clutch basket makes it "further in" towards the engine, to make contact with that other part of the cluch (think you would call it the hub) as I tighten it???
At 10:04 did the rod sit flush against the clutch nut or does it sit out a bit. Because mine sat out a bit with the ball but without the ball it sat flush
How much the rod sticks out of the clutch? If it sticks out about under 3 millimeters then it should be ok. If it sticks out more from there, try to assemble it while the clutch engager lever on the stator side of the engine is removed. The ball must still be there, otherwise the clutch won't work.
so only shim on top of the geartumbler and gearshaft? i have an 2017 am6 and i bought a new shim set cus i thought i missed a lot of the shims and when i assembled the engine again the gearbox was locked up :// so only those shims u showed is all that is needed?
I think that if you just search "minarelli am6 clutch holding tool" but I bought it here www.storm-motor.fi/merkkikohtaiset-osat/kytkimen-kiinnipitotyokalu-am6/
When you put back the cylinder there is a gasket with one round hole for the water-coolant and one rectangular at the side of it. What is this for? i see the gasket has hole for it, but MY cylinder does not have anything there. Do i have the wrong cylinder?
i took apart my am6 3 times cause i can't shift it... i can't figure out why. tryed everything but the gearshiftlevershaft can't rotate the gear shifting drum... i can shift the drum with my hand through all 6 gears but if i put on the shiftlevershaft and the other block half... it didn't work... tryed to swap the shims on the output shaft but that didn't worked either...
That's weird then. If you can shift gears while the engine is apart and not when the other block is assembled, then the only reason I can think of is that there is a wrong kind of shim and the system becomes too tight to turn when the other block is assembled. I cannot think other reasons if all the parts are okay with no damage in them :/
Yea, that would explain it because there's not supposed to be a shim under the drum, only on top of it. The gear shift lever on the other hand has 2 shims.
also, when i pull the kick-starter slow the piston does not move much, only when I pull it harder does it move. Is that normal? And if someone want to help me more, watercoolant leaked down to the crankhouse (?) under the cylinder head. Do i need a full disasembly, or is it ok to just loosen some nuts and let the coolant drain out? Nothing in the oil.
If the coolant leaks to the crankhouse you might have missed a seal. Check that you have all the cylinder seals and that the paper seals are not ripped...
Screw the clutch adjustment screw that's at the clutch lever all the way in and then you have to push the clutch rod on the engine and at the same time put the cable to it's place. It's quite a tricky thing to do.
Now after you've screwed the adjustment screw on the clutch lever all the way in, now you have to screw and tighten it outwards until your clutch lever has about 1 cm clearance before it catches the clutch. The screw is only screwed inwards during the cable assembly.
So you can get the bike on neutral gear? Because if you can and the indicator light doesn't show up then it's the neutral gear sensor wire that is not attached to its screw.
Probably missing some shim(s) in the transmission if you've built the engine. If not, then it can be that your gearshift axle's "teeth" are broken and it cannot turn the gear drum.
If you've remembered all the parts in the transmission, the gear drum should not turn completely freely - it should turn when you use a little bit of force and it should click or kind of lock on every gear. So it's not supposed to turn freely like for example the transmission gears but it should turn and click on every gear when you turn it with a little bit of force.
Y la arandela de el eje secundario en el rodamiento de agujas no la pones??? Esta mal montado el motor literalmente no has puesto ninguna arandela solamente la de el tambor
The newer minarelli am6 model has "built in" washers in the input shaft and the drive shaft, the am6 engines before 2010 have additional washers that you have to remember.
Yes the seal should be put first (check that the correcr side is facing out), then the o-ring should be pushed inside the seal, then the metal ring on top of the o-ring with the smooth side facing outwards.
If you have an older am6 engine the big shim can go in either end of the output axle. Google a exploded view of minarelli's transmission and look there.
I've also watched his video and it's because he had the older model of minarelli am6 which has a couple more shims in the transmission than the newer model. The newer model is all the engines after the year 2009 or 2010, don't remember precisely which year...
That wasn't as good sealant as some other products that I've later used so I don't recommend that, but just look for some silicon sealant that can withstand high temperatures and is designed for engines - I recommend the Würth Silicon Spezial -sealant.
man you're a life saver
Same
same
Best am6 engine build i have seen today, thank you, it helped me loads, great job bro 👍🏼 👏
"a shim" love it
11:20 i worked on several minarelli AM6 engines... and that screw on the left is always chewed up at least a little :)
It has to be
Thank u so much for this video really helped me
Thanx. Wery good video.
Im begging someone help, why could my stators keep going bad they get grounded after some time of riding what could be the problem ? It generates a lot of power like 14v at idle, long time ago everything was good but it generated a lot less power at idle
Das ist das Beste Video
Sehr gut
Dankeschön da Fänky
What if balance shaft and crankshaft gear dots do not match? I took of the clutch cover of my engine and they are not alligned. 7:20
it will prob shake your ass off when you start your moped
they are supposed to be aligned
It can and will damage the engine after some use.
hi, when I tighten the engineblock screws the crank gets really hard to spin but it spins normally when the screws are loose, do you have any idea why that might happend?
When you tighten them after installing new crank bearings the crank becomes under tension. To get it off take the crankshaft nuts and screw them to the both ends of the crank and then tap the ends of the crank with a hammer a few times (prefere a rubber hammer to prevent damaging the threads ). When the tension goes off you notice it right away by looking at the crank. Also try to tighten the engine block bolts in a cross pattern.
I got the tension off by giving the stator side of the crank a couple taps with a normal hammer.
mitä videoille tapahtu
Having a problem with my clutch no matter how many times i adjust the pressure plate and cable the bike stays in gear wit the clutch lever out or in. I have assembled everything correctly but my issue is the clutch is not engaging
Thank for this video
How can you put crankshaft on a bearing so easily that's bull@$&7 😅
why is my inner clutch basket fixed to the outer one when i tighten the nut? i did everything exactly like you did
It is better to be fixed DURING the tightening so the nut goes tighter but if the inner basket doesn't spin alone after the tightening, then it's a problem. Can you explain a little bit more about that problem?
I have that same problem. From what I have heard the center bolt is supposed to be tightened pretty hard, but it seems to me like that is acctually why the 2 parts "come together as one". I've tried using the washer shown at 9:04 from the old clutch AND from the new clutch, without any difference.
I use an Ingersol Rand machine with an internal torque limiter at 75 Nm to tighten it.
Now, the security washer that has to be folded up to the nut, should obviously secure its postition. COULD IT BE THAT THE CENTER BOLT IS SUPPOSED TO BE TIGHTENED ENOUGH TO HAVE NO PLAY, BUT STILL NOT VERY HARD???? Or what else could possibly cause this?
A second thought, I consider the play on the axle fitted to the enginge fairly large. Would that play perhaps be the reason for why my clutch basket makes it "further in" towards the engine, to make contact with that other part of the cluch (think you would call it the hub) as I tighten it???
WOW bro, do you have a vid of it working?
Nope, but works
Röö post a video of it running please
I have sold that moped half a year ago...
Röö ughhh lol
How do you remove the smaller selector shaft
You forgot a shim on the kickstart
At 10:04 did the rod sit flush against the clutch nut or does it sit out a bit. Because mine sat out a bit with the ball but without the ball it sat flush
How much the rod sticks out of the clutch? If it sticks out about under 3 millimeters then it should be ok. If it sticks out more from there, try to assemble it while the clutch engager lever on the stator side of the engine is removed. The ball must still be there, otherwise the clutch won't work.
where did you buy your Bearings
Doesn't matter where you buy, just try to buy bearings that are made in Japan or the US
so only shim on top of the geartumbler and gearshaft? i have an 2017 am6 and i bought a new shim set cus i thought i missed a lot of the shims and when i assembled the engine again the gearbox was locked up :// so only those shims u showed is all that is needed?
They should be all you need, one shim on the gear drum, two shims on the gear shifter - one on both ends.
what oil for oil bath? just regular 10 30?
Nah 10w40
Where can you buy that clutch older tool?
I think that if you just search "minarelli am6 clutch holding tool" but I bought it here www.storm-motor.fi/merkkikohtaiset-osat/kytkimen-kiinnipitotyokalu-am6/
is it possible to block the water pump and get a air cooled cylinder for it?
I think it's not possible and even if it was it would not be such a good idea. Just swap a suzuki pv engine if you want air cooled.
When you put back the cylinder there is a gasket with one round hole for the water-coolant and one rectangular at the side of it. What is this for? i see the gasket has hole for it, but MY cylinder does not have anything there. Do i have the wrong cylinder?
If your cylinder does not have the hole it's not the right cylinder there.
no the square hole does nothing i thought the same , the round hole is for coolant
i took apart my am6 3 times cause i can't shift it... i can't figure out why. tryed everything but the gearshiftlevershaft can't rotate the gear shifting drum... i can shift the drum with my hand through all 6 gears but if i put on the shiftlevershaft and the other block half... it didn't work... tryed to swap the shims on the output shaft but that didn't worked either...
Do you have the spring and the metal ball under the gear shift drum?
@@roo8901 yes :/
That's weird then. If you can shift gears while the engine is apart and not when the other block is assembled, then the only reason I can think of is that there is a wrong kind of shim and the system becomes too tight to turn when the other block is assembled. I cannot think other reasons if all the parts are okay with no damage in them :/
@@roo8901 I’ve got a shim under the shifting drum, I removed it and now it looks like that was the issue I will test it tomorrow 🙌🏼
Yea, that would explain it because there's not supposed to be a shim under the drum, only on top of it. The gear shift lever on the other hand has 2 shims.
also, when i pull the kick-starter slow the piston does not move much, only when I pull it harder does it move. Is that normal? And if someone want to help me more, watercoolant leaked down to the crankhouse (?) under the cylinder head. Do i need a full disasembly, or is it ok to just loosen some nuts and let the coolant drain out? Nothing in the oil.
If the coolant leaks to the crankhouse you might have missed a seal. Check that you have all the cylinder seals and that the paper seals are not ripped...
how do I fasten the clutch cable on this?
Screw the clutch adjustment screw that's at the clutch lever all the way in and then you have to push the clutch rod on the engine and at the same time put the cable to it's place. It's quite a tricky thing to do.
@@roo8901 thanks, it in place on the lever but struggle with other end
Yea the other end is annoying to get on place, you'll get it.
@@roo8901 got it now but something is wrong, the bike doesn't roll with clutch in, and can change gear without clutch
Now after you've screwed the adjustment screw on the clutch lever all the way in, now you have to screw and tighten it outwards until your clutch lever has about 1 cm clearance before it catches the clutch. The screw is only screwed inwards during the cable assembly.
Спасибо🤝
How do I get a stuck short rod ouf the clutch
How is it stuck?
does the am6 have a harmonic balancer?
a. = yes
does the derbi motor have one?
I don't know about the derbi motor so much but I bet that it too has.
no it doesnt but in my opinion their engines are better
Only the derbi gpr engine
👍🏻
Can u explain to me how the neutral switch works for me, mine doesn't and when I look there is just metal in the hole?
Is your gear drum original part or aftermarket part?
@@roo8901 not sure
If there's no hole for the neutral gear, buy a new one and check that it's fine
@@roo8901 i think it's me being unclear, but just the neutral indicator doesn't work, don't have the gearbox open.
So you can get the bike on neutral gear? Because if you can and the indicator light doesn't show up then it's the neutral gear sensor wire that is not attached to its screw.
Boa noite porque o meu metor deita óleo por o respiro quando está quente
mihi surfing videot katos
Cerco pistone diametro 47,5mm e piolo 13mm per motore Fantic. Sarei grato per l'aiuto
can someone tell me why mine wont shift gears
Probably missing some shim(s) in the transmission if you've built the engine. If not, then it can be that your gearshift axle's "teeth" are broken and it cannot turn the gear drum.
I will check that tomorrow,thanks.
You forgot the clutch lever right?
I assembled it off camera
Hey why cant i turn the gear drum after installing
Or turn it freely
If you've remembered all the parts in the transmission, the gear drum should not turn completely freely - it should turn when you use a little bit of force and it should click or kind of lock on every gear. So it's not supposed to turn freely like for example the transmission gears but it should turn and click on every gear when you turn it with a little bit of force.
If it's really not turning and putting in the gears then check all the parts in the transmission that they're fine.
@@roo8901 i can move it clockwise for a couple of mm
@@roo8901 the parts are almost new
Mihi trainsurffaus videot on hävinny
ihmettelenki ku nimi oli jotenki tuttu mut joo täähä oli se surffaus jätkä
Y la arandela de el eje secundario en el rodamiento de agujas no la pones??? Esta mal montado el motor literalmente no has puesto ninguna arandela solamente la de el tambor
The newer minarelli am6 model has "built in" washers in the input shaft and the drive shaft, the am6 engines before 2010 have additional washers that you have to remember.
@@roo8901 look videos of lf racing one of te Best mecánics in spain
Do you need a washer between the the balance shaft and bearing?
No, you don't.
@@roo8901 thanks lad!
Did your right crankseal work okay because I put mine in that way and it didnt seal sucked in 100ml of gearbox oil in 10mins
Which one of the seals?
@@roo8901 the clutch side crank seal
Alright cause mine has worket always like that, did you remember to put also the o-ring and the metar ring inside the hole of the seal?
@@roo8901 yes I did. Should the seal sit flush with the housing and the metar ring
Yes the seal should be put first (check that the correcr side is facing out), then the o-ring should be pushed inside the seal, then the metal ring on top of the o-ring with the smooth side facing outwards.
You av Don wrong is not working
Ahh shit i dont have the ball for clutch
Yea, it's needed for the clutch to work
Hi, how can you get the roller bearings out of the casings? I can knock one out but you can't get behind the other one.
Thanks very useful video
Hey your Video is awsome. After I build the transmition one big shim left over... where it has to go?
If you have an older am6 engine the big shim can go in either end of the output axle. Google a exploded view of minarelli's transmission and look there.
@@roo8901 I got it thanks a lot
Why did rexxys video have so many more shims that you had?
I've also watched his video and it's because he had the older model of minarelli am6 which has a couple more shims in the transmission than the newer model. The newer model is all the engines after the year 2009 or 2010, don't remember precisely which year...
2:23 what is that blue glue called?
That wasn't as good sealant as some other products that I've later used so I don't recommend that, but just look for some silicon sealant that can withstand high temperatures and is designed for engines - I recommend the Würth Silicon Spezial -sealant.
@@roo8901 Thank you very much!