Corbett, Grace, their parents, and even their kids are learning a lot about the many ways (a few right, many wrong) to build a high performance home. More at: HomeDiagnosis.tv
You will get a lot of flack for doing it yourself. "Hire people" "use a nail gun" etc, but at the end of the day you have a house and a shitload of money from not hiring labor. I'm about to go down this road myself. Ignore the haters. They are jealous.
Great video. What could make your job with nailing the hangers even faster would be a positive placement nailer for hanger nails. I'm sure by now you have it. The palm nailer is nice though as it is very universal.
Did your inspector give you grief for cutting the heal of the TJI's where they land on the lower wall? We've always used a tapered top plate or a Simpson VPA clip allowing full dimension on the TJI's.
Would you mind to specify the type of ventilation you used in this case, to deal with VOC emissions? Are you venting the shed roof through the eves or are you referring to an air filtration system? Thanks
I realize they're spendy, and it's probably too late now anyway, but they make pneumatic nailers that are meant for attaching metal brackets and such. They're just like a normal nailer, except the tip of the nail sticks out a little bit so you can place it right in the nail-hole of the bracket, and POW! Metabo makes a nice one. (I borrow my friend's when I need it ;)
@@davidearhart9531 Thanks for putting a name on this, looking at building my own home and this the kind of stuff I was actually wondering how to do efficiently.
In the fine print the 'I' beam manufacturers here in the northwest do not recommend them for ambient temperature installation. Most probably because the OSB doesn't do all that well in moisture, not sure. So think about the eaves and soffits etc that they are disclaiming responsibility for. I would be hesitant even using them where rafter bay ventilation exists (can't think of where you wouldn't ventilate them) as this would be ambient humidity. While a few years back you could pay extra and get true plywood webs that no longer seems available from major producers. It pays to really read the brochures. I went through this a couple of years ago with a 27 foot span. I ended up making my own box beams with 2x4 chords and braces faced both sides with 1/2" plywood. Liberal use of urethane adhesive and fasteners made a strong unit. Labor intensive but worth it. Good luck with your project. Take care. Doug
what did you use to anchor the i joist on the other side of roof? Also I see you added wood on the inside of the i joist for the hanger. did you nail that or glue it?
How did you handle the rafters at the rake walls? Does the nailing flange of the hanger fold around the corner? Or did you use an LVL or Rimboard or something beside an I-Joist at the ends?
Would these optimal for spanning a 15' gap? i want a vaulted single pitch roof on my garage, which will be 15x30, the pitch spanning the 15' dimension. Its hard to find any designs without the roof rafters. Also, does this have to be an engineered design? thanks in advance for the advice!
What is the model number of the hangers. We are building a roof like that. Using 1-3/4 ledger and 14 " 110 series TJI with 25' span. Also using squash blocks at hanger.....?
Just found your channel. Awesome build. Question for you. The end of the I-joists that sit on the exterior wall. Looks like you cut a one sided bird mouth(since you didn't continue for the eaves) where it intersects the top plate. Did the truss manufacturer spec a certain amount of the truss that could be cut away and yet retain structural integrity? Looking forward to watching some more!
They wouldn’t be able to cut away truss, this is just an I joist. As long as there is enough bearing over exterior wall plate cut whatever extra off as much as you want. Not same as engineered trusses, can’t cut anything on those except tails to straighten for fascia
Is the a reason why you use nails in stead of screws? In my experience it takes less time (compared to this pneumatic hammer) and their clamping force is way better.
Screws are generally not used in framing due to their low shear tolerance. Houses shift, and in an earthquake prone area you have to have fasteners that won't shear off. Nails suit this purpose well since they have some give in them (ever bend a nail accidentally when driving it in? That's the give they'll have during a quake.) The framing would all fall apart if done with screws because they just snap in half. Great holding power, but poor shear strength. There are a few exceptions, GRK screws being one of them I believe. But they are specially designed.
Nicht schlecht. Aber mit den dachträgern kann man auch ganze Häuser bauen.30cm mit cellulose dämmen. Btw. Warum am firstpunkt denn Balkenschuhe und nicht das gleiche auflager wie an der Traufe?👍👍🇩🇪
If I was a more experienced builder, then that might have been fine- I wanted to measure everything a million times before I pulled the trigger on any component.
So I am not understanding why no matter what you are using trusses or rafters why you are cutting different lengths? Does that mean your house walls are not plumb and square????
In real life, two 36 ft long parallel walls will have some variance between them, because wood is not always perfect. You could cheat the walls in and out and cut every rafter the same- we opted to let the walls stand as ‘plumb, straight, and level’ as possible and cheat the rafter lengths so they sit perfectly on top of that.
What’s the dimensions of that room? How long of spans are they? When you talked to your structural engineer could you have went bigger and should you have? Or are you pleased with the size of the room ? Thanks! love following this build nice work!
Perfect video for my single slope house I am building. Exactly 24' long like yours. I will be getting the ijoist longer for the 4ft overhang of the front and 2 off the back. Thanks so much for sharing though to see how it all works! What's the thickness on your ijoist?
OMG Corbet, get a metal connector nail gun. With the amount of joists and rafters you have there, It'll save you hours compared to the palm nailer. $250 CAD for a Bostitch MCN-150 on Amazon. Probably cheaper in your parts.
I suppose it's too late now anyway. But for next time. A lot of things I had to learn the hard way... And continually learn as well. Dogspeed my virtual friend
Oh I didn't realize you're using 16d nails. To my knowledge they come at 2-1/2" length. So more expensive, but the MCN250 shoots up to 2-1/2 metal connector nails. And the Simpson N16HDGPT500 are 16d collated nails. But by now the price of tools and materials has probably doubled. So it's a more difficult cost/benefit analysis.
I might be missing the point of this channel, because I only came to see I Joists in action, but why bring up off gassing for the Joists when the house siding is osb, the floors are plywood, and the furniture has some undoubtedly mixed in (my couch even has plywood)? Did I miss that from another video, or is there some great concern that comes with an I Joist that doesn't with everything else made with the same parts?
That wouldn't fly in Iowa and we have the most relaxed codes of any of the 7 states I've worked in while on the road doing commercial construction and custom home building
No sir I see exactly how you installed the beam to the side of those studs we would have had to cut the studs so that the beam is actually setting on the wall The only place I've seen it done this way is on icf block walls but they have bolts holding the beam to the block that goes into the concrete core of the block But if it's engineered and the plan is stamped your local code enforcement can't say anything about it anyway
It looks like you use the spax power lags how long of power lag did you use I have the exact same situation going on. And I didn't know the depth of those power lags and you got them about three six and nine inches on the LVL. I really appreciate your information
Wow, You should have hired a licensed framer. I've 30 years under my belt, I lost count on the "issues". When you said "King Rafter" I think you meant Ridge Board(Beam), those "clips" are called hangers. I had to stop watching.
'King Rafter' comes from a 70-year old carpenter. Metal clip is a general term to encompass hangers, straps, and other flat connectors. '30 years' is valuable, but you should still try to be a nice, open-minded person. Experience doesn't replace manners.
Who gives a crap about the terminology. Semantics. No-one cares more about the finished product than the owner themselves. I've seen the results of union framers, not saying you're one of them, but "pro" jobs can also be disgraceful.
Ive done so much work high off the ground and always use scaffold. So easy to set up and is so comfortable to work off of.
Thank you for the "Framing a Big Roof with I-Joist Rafters", I love to see your eave construction video if it was ever made. Thank you!
Big help, I need to do this on a project myself. Thanks for posting!
You will get a lot of flack for doing it yourself. "Hire people" "use a nail gun" etc, but at the end of the day you have a house and a shitload of money from not hiring labor. I'm about to go down this road myself. Ignore the haters. They are jealous.
Ha- thanks for the cheer my friend
Great video. What could make your job with nailing the hangers even faster would be a positive placement nailer for hanger nails. I'm sure by now you have it. The palm nailer is nice though as it is very universal.
Looks like you had a blast - kudos!
Thx Timm
I trust the rope much more than a ladder!
Did your inspector give you grief for cutting the heal of the TJI's where they land on the lower wall? We've always used a tapered top plate or a Simpson VPA clip allowing full dimension on the TJI's.
Would you mind to specify the type of ventilation you used in this case, to deal with VOC emissions? Are you venting the shed roof through the eves or are you referring to an air filtration system? Thanks
I realize they're spendy, and it's probably too late now anyway, but they make pneumatic nailers that are meant for attaching metal brackets and such. They're just like a normal nailer, except the tip of the nail sticks out a little bit so you can place it right in the nail-hole of the bracket, and POW! Metabo makes a nice one. (I borrow my friend's when I need it ;)
They are positive placement nail guns and they are definitely worth the money!
@@davidearhart9531 Thanks for putting a name on this, looking at building my own home and this the kind of stuff I was actually wondering how to do efficiently.
Palm nailer costs way less and fixes the problem
This is so cool, hope you can have the 2' eave extension video soon! Thanks so much for the education!
You’re so welcome! Thanks for following- that vid is coming in the next week, stay tuned
@@HomePerformance Hi, do you have a link to this video?
Here you go Jan:
ua-cam.com/video/JR7sCKlChgY/v-deo.html
In the fine print the 'I' beam manufacturers here in the northwest do not recommend them for ambient temperature installation. Most probably because the OSB doesn't do all that well in moisture, not sure. So think about the eaves and soffits etc that they are disclaiming responsibility for. I would be hesitant even using them where rafter bay ventilation exists (can't think of where you wouldn't ventilate them) as this would be ambient humidity. While a few years back you could pay extra and get true plywood webs that no longer seems available from major producers. It pays to really read the brochures. I went through this a couple of years ago with a 27 foot span. I ended up making my own box beams with 2x4 chords and braces faced both sides with 1/2" plywood. Liberal use of urethane adhesive and fasteners made a strong unit. Labor intensive but worth it. Good luck with your project. Take care. Doug
Thanks, Doug, well said
what did you use to anchor the i joist on the other side of roof? Also I see you added wood on the inside of the i joist for the hanger. did you nail that or glue it?
Looking awesome man!
Thx brother- hope to bring you down to advise!
Home Performance I hope we can make that happen!
How did you handle the rafters at the rake walls? Does the nailing flange of the hanger fold around the corner? Or did you use an LVL or Rimboard or something beside an I-Joist at the ends?
Thank You
Quite welcome
Shouldn’t you have full wood support holding the i joists?
Would these optimal for spanning a 15' gap? i want a vaulted single pitch roof on my garage, which will be 15x30, the pitch spanning the 15' dimension. Its hard to find any designs without the roof rafters. Also, does this have to be an engineered design?
thanks in advance for the advice!
You can have the lumberyard size them, yes they can do 15 ft, you’d likely need less than 14” tall.
What is the model number of the hangers. We are building a roof like that. Using 1-3/4 ledger and 14 " 110 series TJI with 25' span. Also using squash blocks at hanger.....?
Sorry, Garry, don’t recall. But they’re the only ones in that line- adjustable I-joist straight hangers.
Great video. Just curious as to the height of the ceiling on both ends of the structure? What will be the finished ceiling height on both ends?
10’-16’
Just found your channel. Awesome build. Question for you. The end of the I-joists that sit on the exterior wall. Looks like you cut a one sided bird mouth(since you didn't continue for the eaves) where it intersects the top plate. Did the truss manufacturer spec a certain amount of the truss that could be cut away and yet retain structural integrity? Looking forward to watching some more!
Thanks CA- actually not a birdmouth, just planed down the bottom flange of the I-joist at a 15 degree angle.
They wouldn’t be able to cut away truss, this is just an I joist. As long as there is enough bearing over exterior wall plate cut whatever extra off as much as you want. Not same as engineered trusses, can’t cut anything on those except tails to straighten for fascia
Is the a reason why you use nails in stead of screws?
In my experience it takes less time (compared to this pneumatic hammer) and their clamping force is way better.
Just made the choice, since either is approved. Our tinylab is put together entirely with screws, so I thought we’d change it up.
@@HomePerformance
As long as it works ;-)
Nice build, have fun
Screws are generally not used in framing due to their low shear tolerance. Houses shift, and in an earthquake prone area you have to have fasteners that won't shear off. Nails suit this purpose well since they have some give in them (ever bend a nail accidentally when driving it in? That's the give they'll have during a quake.) The framing would all fall apart if done with screws because they just snap in half. Great holding power, but poor shear strength. There are a few exceptions, GRK screws being one of them I believe. But they are specially designed.
@@digitalconsciousness
Good point
You didn't show how the lower end was fastened?
Angle cut, resting on dbl top plate, with hurricane strap.
Nicht schlecht. Aber mit den dachträgern kann man auch ganze Häuser bauen.30cm mit cellulose dämmen. Btw. Warum am firstpunkt denn Balkenschuhe und nicht das gleiche auflager wie an der Traufe?👍👍🇩🇪
Informative video.. . I'm a truss designer it's a pleasure if I can help in any case of trusses designing
So high performance that they didnt buy a plank, they bought mountain climbing gear for a tax right off instead.
Over in the us how do you guys get frames level if its on concrete slab is it packed level?
The forms are leveled, and so the concrete pour will be level- I don’t recall them using a level after pouring.
May have been easier to attach the clips to the ledger before you hung the ledger.
If I was a more experienced builder, then that might have been fine- I wanted to measure everything a million times before I pulled the trigger on any component.
So I am not understanding why no matter what you are using trusses or rafters why you are cutting different lengths?
Does that mean your house walls are not plumb and square????
In real life, two 36 ft long parallel walls will have some variance between them, because wood is not always perfect. You could cheat the walls in and out and cut every rafter the same- we opted to let the walls stand as ‘plumb, straight, and level’ as possible and cheat the rafter lengths so they sit perfectly on top of that.
What kind of anchors did you used for the I-joist?
Strong-tie LSU I believe. Adjustable angle.
@@HomePerformance how did you nail them down on the eave end?
Four big .12 or .13 nails thru the bottom flange into the top plate, then strapped with an angle.
What's the name of the video where you are building eaves? Can't find it ...
Coming in the next week or so, Sergey
What’s the dimensions of that room? How long of spans are they? When you talked to your structural engineer could you have went bigger and should you have? Or are you pleased with the size of the room ? Thanks! love following this build nice work!
Thanks Blake! 24’ wide, 32’ long. Span is about 25.5’. No particular reason to go bigger than this.
Home Performance would these work for a loft that’s about 29’?
It would be for a man cave in a shop , and these would be floors
Yes, you can get engineered lumber to do almost anything you want- ask your local lumberyard
Perfect video for my single slope house I am building. Exactly 24' long like yours. I will be getting the ijoist longer for the 4ft overhang of the front and 2 off the back. Thanks so much for sharing though to see how it all works! What's the thickness on your ijoist?
14” I think
I was wondering if I could use I beam for an A-frame. Would they be to wobbly?
Blocking and bracing. Can be done, I'm sure.
What was the weight of the rafters? Did you consider renting a small scissor lift instead of hanging from ropes?
Not heavy, just unwieldy. No, we like to work at a steady pace and heavy equipment rental stresses me out.
OMG Corbet, get a metal connector nail gun. With the amount of joists and rafters you have there, It'll save you hours compared to the palm nailer. $250 CAD for a Bostitch MCN-150 on Amazon. Probably cheaper in your parts.
I suppose it's too late now anyway. But for next time. A lot of things I had to learn the hard way... And continually learn as well.
Dogspeed my virtual friend
To my knowledge, no nail gun shoots 16d nails
Oh I didn't realize you're using 16d nails. To my knowledge they come at 2-1/2" length.
So more expensive, but the MCN250 shoots up to 2-1/2 metal connector nails. And the Simpson N16HDGPT500 are 16d collated nails.
But by now the price of tools and materials has probably doubled. So it's a more difficult cost/benefit analysis.
Yeah, a lot of these are 3 1/2” 16d nails, which I doubt can be collated with a gun of sufficient power without jamming
LSSU Simpson Strongtie require 3" nails not 1 1/2" nails... In the i Joist you would use 1 1/2" nails
How are they connected to the frame on the lower side? Did you do anything specific or are they just seating there at an angle with some nails?
There are simple 10-nail angle clips at the low end.
Can this be used in a humidity like the Caribbean?
Sure, why not?
@Home Performance I am thinking about the board falling apart, it's super humidity and its an hour from the amazon rain forest.
Haha wow- as long as you get it dry quickly with a dehumidifier once the home is dried in, should be fine but ask the maker.
What are those I joist hangers called?
I might be missing the point of this channel, because I only came to see I Joists in action, but why bring up off gassing for the Joists when the house siding is osb, the floors are plywood, and the furniture has some undoubtedly mixed in (my couch even has plywood)? Did I miss that from another video, or is there some great concern that comes with an I Joist that doesn't with everything else made with the same parts?
Welcome Cory, yes, all of that DOES matter, which is why our channel is devoted to controlling indoor chemistry and physics. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever heard of scaffolding?
You said that 25ft spam with I beam?
Uh huh yup
What are those hangers you're using for the TGI/I-Joist roof rafters to the ledger? Simpson Strong-Tie?
Yes
Hi!
What is the brand & model of the bracket you are using? Thanks
Simpson strong-tie, don’t recall the model #.
Thanks
What type of hangers did you used to mount the I beam rafters?
They’re adjustable I-joist hangers from Simpson. Easily findable.
What is holding the structural load of the ledger?
The lag screws into the wall studs, and everything beneath those
That wouldn't fly in Iowa and we have the most relaxed codes of any of the 7 states I've worked in while on the road doing commercial construction and custom home building
I think you must be misunderstanding the detail- this ledger connection is widely used and spec’d by our structural eng firm
No sir I see exactly how you installed the beam to the side of those studs we would have had to cut the studs so that the beam is actually setting on the wall
The only place I've seen it done this way is on icf block walls but they have bolts holding the beam to the block that goes into the concrete core of the block
But if it's engineered and the plan is stamped your local code enforcement can't say anything about it anyway
You're probably not meant to use all 19 holes on those brackets. It's not a prom date.
Strap nailer saves more time
Just get a positive placement nail gun if you are doing a lot of hanger work man
If I was a legit builder, no doubt- just an amateur here.
@@HomePerformance fair point. Palm is the way to go then. Nice looking build
Thank you Mike!
Its called FART NAILER.
Cool
what did you use for web stiffeners ?
3/4” ply or Advantech OSB
@@HomePerformance TYVM!!!
It looks like you use the spax power lags how long of power lag did you use I have the exact same situation going on. And I didn't know the depth of those power lags and you got them about three six and nine inches on the LVL. I really appreciate your information
Thanks man, I honestly have no idea anymore, it was awhile back. Sorry.
what is the size of these I joists????
14” deep, 2.5” thick, 26’ long!!!!
16 or 24" center to center ?
16”
You made everything way to hard
Can you explain what you mean? What would be more efficient?
Don't do bird mouths on i-joist, use simpson vpa's.
We didn’t use a birdmouth, just an sngle cut on the outer flange
Hire a framing crew and get that dried in
Truss flooring SUCKS.
Cool
I hate virtue signaling
Thank you do much for sharing your feelings Tyler
You talk too much
Maybe you watch too many videos. Go away.
Wow, You should have hired a licensed framer. I've 30 years under my belt, I lost count on the "issues". When you said "King Rafter" I think you meant Ridge Board(Beam), those "clips" are called hangers. I had to stop watching.
'King Rafter' comes from a 70-year old carpenter. Metal clip is a general term to encompass hangers, straps, and other flat connectors. '30 years' is valuable, but you should still try to be a nice, open-minded person. Experience doesn't replace manners.
Who gives a crap about the terminology. Semantics. No-one cares more about the finished product than the owner themselves. I've seen the results of union framers, not saying you're one of them, but "pro" jobs can also be disgraceful.
Tico nailer is much more efficient