Just a tip to speed the process up a little. After you remove the master cylinder cover use your Mityvac to suck the old fluid out of the maser cylinder leaving just a little bit in the master cylinder to cover the port at the bottom so as not to induced air. Then add the new fluid and flush as you said. This way you don’t have to run all the old fluid through the system to flush it out, also less contamination of the new fluid.
Thank you for your instructive and comprehensive video. I like the way you do it and also your way of speaking: no shouting or screaming in the camera, but at a normal voicelevel. Thanks again. Greetings from The Netherlands 👍😎
Good job in mentioning the need to activate the abs HCU after fluid change. I live on acreage and in one area the dirt is very firm and level. I get the bike up to ~20mph and hit the brakes. The abs is clikin away. Do this a couple times and I have zero concerns about needing to do more. Also, I called two different HD dealerships and they both said when they perform fluid change and use the Digi Tech, they do not perform a second flush. When my bike had the brake fluid recall in 2018, that HD dealer did not perform a second flush. A 2nd fluid change is easy enough and cant hurt imo.
I see you mention after a flush the ABS clicks when applied. I just flushed mine and the ABS is doing the same thing. I attempted to flush a 2nd time and retry and ABS still clicks. Does it do it for awhile and reset or could it be I introduced air. I don't think I did. ABS makes clicking sound for both front and rear when applied at around 10-15 mph.
@@jbucks166 It makes noise when the abs is working, hard breaking, preventing skidding. It pulses the brake fluid to the calipers so to speak. This can be felt in the brake levers.
@@ridemfast7625 thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought of it but realized I haven't jammed on my brakes in the past to know if the ABS clicking was normal behavior. My brake pressure feels great and normal braking is fine. Only when I jam it quick does it seem to act crazy but I guess it's normal. My gut still tells me otherwise lol . Thanks for your time. Be safe out there
I wonder how many bikes out there have never had this fluid replacement done. Bummer on the cover not coming off without loosening the exhaust, but, that's why we have tools. Great detailed video again. Thanks for posting.
@@TollesonLife It makes me wonder, I bought my 2018 Goldwing new from the dealer just 6 months ago. Just over 3k miles on it now, but if it sat on the dealers floor for awhile, the fluids could be reaching that timeline for replacement. I dont want to open the reservoir caps to test, as that would introduce moisture from ambient air. Hmmm, need to research my manufacturer date. Thanks again.
This was the video I've been waiting for! My '15 is overdue. Just tested the fluid and it's at 3% so it's right on the edge. Glad to see you use the manual MityVac. That's the way I want to go because I'm afraid the pneumatic one will work too fast and get air in the lines (doing it alone). When I asked the dealer about this job they quoted 3 hours of labor just for the brakes and said exhaust had to come off for the clutch... on a '15. Around $500 total - I don't think so. Thanks for doing this video and adding to your already great content.
hogdriver88 I thought of you as we were doing it hogdriver88. As mentioned, on my brothers ‘15 Road Glide, we didn’t have to loosen the exhaust, the side cover came right off. All the best my friend.
@@Hogdriver88 I have the pneumatic and the valve allows you to control the pull. Open it part way and it pulls the fluid slower. I've been using it for a couple years and like it so far. Ride safe brother.
I found that patience is very important. I did my flush solo. No one around to give a hand. Only getting a quarter turn the bleeding is very slow. Really could not tell by watching needle. I bleed a little to much after taking an extra turn on bleed valve. I did get a little air in the line. Got the air to rise out but tapping on the lever lightly till no more bubbles came out.
Kudos for this video. I have a '17 Road King and I think it's still running the original brake/clutch fluid. Every other video I tried searching for would either show the brake flush or clutch flush but not both. And thanks for that tip on loosening that exhaust.
In the absence of a helper I was able to set up a Go Pro camera on master cylinder and watch the fluid level on my I-phone as I bled the fluid. Cycled through about four more times. The system worked.
While in Deadwood during the Sturgis Rally I lost my clutch. After letting it cool down about 30 minutes clutch started working again on my 2014 Streetglide. Got all brake fluids changed when I got back home. I feel many people don’t realize the importance of changing the brake fluid.
Had an issue with clutch going spongy riding from columbus ohio to norfolk Virginia now I know why, brake fluid breaking down in their as well. Thks for the knowledge changing all three today.
Very nice and easy to fallow instructions. I like to ask a question if I may, when you said to run the bike afterwards to pump the ABS and bleed the system again. Do you mean both front and back or just rear? Thank you.
Hello Alvaro, I used both brakes when I activated the ABS and then flushed both front and back. Again, that was according to our Harley Service Manager. Hope that helps.
Looks like you have some Amsoil Brake Fluid on your shelf do you have a preference on which brand of fluid your use? Also approximately how much fluid do you need to purchase to do the fluid change?
Excellent. Thank you for a thorough video. The best I've seen. I was quoted over $425 from my local dealer to flush the brakes and clutch. No way. I'm a do-it-yourselfer. Really appreciate the flashback mid-video to show the clutch flush. Btw, is that RaceDeck flooring in your garage?
Very good Jerry! That is race deck flooring my friend. Ive sold that house now and travel full-time with the RV, bike and car. Plan on doing that for a few years.
Yes we do Omar, at the end of the video youll see that I activated the ABS several times in a packing lot which pushes the old fluid out of it and allows the new fluid to enter. Then I did a second flush to remove the old fluid that came out of the ABS.. This is all according to the HD Service Manager.
Finally I found a video that explains why I’m having a hard time removing the clutch cover, do have a question tho you mention loosen muffler bolts & header bolts did you just loosen the rear header bolts only to give you clearance? Tia
So if I do exactly what you did on Your Awesome video I don't have to take my 2010 Limited FLHTK to a Harley-Davidson dealership to bleed air out of abs system? I already have the % brake tester fluid and pump. My Son and I just recently changed my handle bars to 14 inch ape hangers. So I figured need to change my fluid since % is High. Figured I didn't need to blow over $200.00 from Harley-Davidson. THANKS FOR AWESOME HELPING VIDEO!!!
That's correct Wolverine, according to my Harley Service Manager. Some folks disagree but don't know their source. I went with the Harley folks. All the best!
I have a 2015 HD fatboy softail. I also bought the mityvac wish you use to bleed your brakes. I couldn't find the correct tube to fit the bleeder in the kit. I had a tube that I use to my 2016 camry le. I was able to manually the front, but rear was very difficult to do. I am going to the HD dealer to bleed the brakes.
If you want to test the new fluid you should test what is coming out of the calliper. At 8:14 you tested at the master cylinder. You only tested the new fluid that you just topped up with. Of course it was good, as its straight out of the bottle.
Thanks what I was thinking the fluid doesn't circulate. I was told not to trust a Harley Dealership do to many just remove the fluid in the Master Cylinder.
If I am going to spend the money saving time to do the job myself, I am going to use a new bottle of $6.19 Amsoil fluid. Just for insurance sake. Even though you are probably right, I am sure the dealer will be using an opened bottle.
Thank you for the super informative video. I do have a quick question about the ABS part, what is that all about? I accidentally popped a piston out of the caliber while cleaning and changing brake pad, and all the dot fluid from I am guess the ABS to the caliber all pour out. I was able to get the piston back in and caliber reinstalled onto the bike with new brake pads, can I just do the fluid change like you did and the rear brake will work? Or at least work long enough for me to ride to the dealer? Thank you again.
Awesome tutorial! Just wondering how you would know that the reservoir is emptied a couple times if he is adding fluid as you’re removing it? How do you keep track I guess, is the question? Does the fluid color change to a more clear look possibly? Thank you.
@@TollesonLife awesome, I know it was a dumb question but this is my first time for this so thank you for responding so quickly. Really appreciate it. Keep up the great tutorials.
As an 18 Road Glide owner I find your videos very helpful. This weekend I changed my oil and transmission/primary fluids. You know what was on my shop computer? Your video -- which was very helpful. Keep it up and ride safe.
Hello, I was just wondering if changing lines would be the same way being as we empty the lines upon removal and place in empty lines. Can I just vacuum until there is no air? Will the abs allow it?
Hi, I have done the clutch fluid on my 2018 ultra limited. I had to loosen both exhaust flanges. How did you loosen without taking off heat shields? Thanks Bob
Hello Bob, I did have to loosen the heat shield at the flange, didn't have to remove it, just turned it out of the way enough to get the socket on the bolt. Appreciate you watching!
So you do both sides filling the same cap for the front brakes, right? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, but it’s my first time ever trying to work on my bike and have my first HD bike (Street Glide). And yes I did a bike manual* just want some clarification is all. I wanna flush it myself cause HD Service is trying to charge me almost $500 for a brake flush.
when you are draining the fluid, can you increase the psi with the bleeder valve open on the caliper while it's bleeding or do you need to close the bleeder valve then increase the psi?
On your clutch slave cylinder on The Handlebar I noticed the Round Disc covers the fluid Inlet was not in place not sure if you replaced it before you put the cover back on
I loved the video , but I’ll Probably end up taking it to Harley Davidson and let them do all that brake flush and stuff I don’t like messing with that ABS you did make it look easy . Stay safe my Friend . Next time 😎👍
Can the clutch be more difficult to pull in after fluid change I had dealer change fluid but I feel like pull should be softer .other bikes feel little softer pull.but I'm not sure if there is a problem or solution. I mean it works but
I watched your video and went to change brake fluid on my 2016 Street Glide Special. After much effort trying to get the bleeder to suction out the fluid I removed it and found there is no passage from the top nipple where the dust cap goes to the bottom section where it is threaded and the two holes are on the side of the fitting. Thus no way to suction out the old fluid. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the bleeder fitting with something aftermarket? I had no trouble changing the fluid on my Hyd clutch but have not tried the rear brake until I figure out what is happing with the front brake first. Thanks!
What was your result? If you replaced the bleeder fittings did you go with the Speed Bleeders, they have a built in check valve makes it easier to do yourself.
Question, so if you have the abs tool that the dealer has & flush brakes like you did in the video & hook up the tool to purge the abs system do you still have to bleed brakes again? Or do you have to take the bike out and get the brakes to pulse?
Yes, you do have to bleed them again even with the digital tool. The tool activates the pump without having to ride the bike and slam your brakes on to activate it. Once activated, the abs pump expels the old fluid into the system (same as riding it and slamming your brakes on) thereby contaminating it, which you then have to flush out a second time. I highly recommend anyone who is working on their own bike invest in a service manual, and not solely rely on someone posting a video who may or may not actually know the proper procedures. Also, start by sucking out the old fluid from reservoir first and refill it with fresh, then you are only pulling fresh clean fluid through the system. This also makes it much easier to determine when you have fresh fluid coming out of the bleeder since the fresh and the old is not mixed together and easily distinguished by the color difference.
Just did brakes on ‘18 SG. Thanks for the informative video. Well done Gonna tackle the clutch tomorrow and wondering, were you able to get that side cover off by just loosening rear bolts on muffler and the rear head bolts on exhaust to have enough clearance? And any concerns about exhaust leaks after tightening? Keep the vids coming. Thx
Good deal Daniel, yes, just by loosening the bolts on the rear and rear of the heads I was able to get enough clearance. No issues with leaks after tightening. All the best!
So how did you exercise the ABS solenoids? What you did doesn’t do that . Good video for old non ABS bikes but with out running the solenoids? Your not doing a ABS flush / bleed. Many ABS units have failed with your method on 09-18 ABS Harley . On your clutch cover when you do get it off? You can lightly trim that chrome cover on the bottom very little.. make clutch bleeds very easy for next time . No touching exhaust ....
Hey Doc. I followed the procedure recommended by the HD Service Manager at my dealership. I did some emergency braking after the first fluid change to activate the solenoids, HD said that would push the old fluid out of the solenoids and fill them with the new fluid. Then I did a 2nd flush. Make sense? Did I miss anything? Thanks for the tip on the chrome cover!
Tolleson Life service manager is and idiot and would likely be fired if anybody at moco knew he even hinted at it.... i have been screwing around trying too build a cheap system to cycle the ABS pump but just havent had time. His way doesnt work. I ended up borrowing a snap on scan tool for customer bikes lately. But its a busy automotive shop I borrow it from. Lots of more crap fluid comes out using the scan tool. Hammering the brakes to get the solenoids to work doesnt get 20% out of system and pump. Just beaware.... and its not like these abs pumps and solenoids dont fail.... because they do and still are failing. 2017 2 weeks ago and out of warranty.... dealer didnt want too know. Guy bought lines and we removed system as he never wanted abs in the first place.
You did not change the fluid in the ABS unit other than what was in the passage normally open during non ABS actuation. The valve body flush is not the same as the actuation that takes place during an ABS event.
Hey Thermo's place, I did activate the ABS system to push the old fluid out at the end of the video, then did another flush of the system as directed by my Harley service manager, you still don't think we got it out?
@@TollesonLife An ABS event and a commanded flush are two very different things. Just causing the abs to cycle by over breaking does not flush the valve body. You also state that the system can only be serviced by the dealer. Any decent indy can do it and many owner can do it at home. This is a proper ABS service cycle on the rear brake. Just a laptop and a DTT. ua-cam.com/video/GY8vte3un5k/v-deo.html&feature=share
I F***ed up and vaccumed air into the system, just a few seconds of miss concentration, need to tow bike to dealer, would not even ride it there.... expensive mistake but such is life....
Hello Sir, Great tutorials. Hopefully you can help. I attempted a brake fluid flush on my 2014 SGS , All seemed to be fine until I took it for a ride. I attempted to activate ABS and it makes a very strange sound now after the flush. I attempted to flush a second time and take for a ride and again same thing. ABS seems to be malfunctioning. I tried both front and rear and the ABS does not work as it did. On startup the ABS light flashed , a minute into the ride it shuts off as normal. Once I apply hard brake the module makes that clicking/clunking sound. Did I introduce air at some point possibly? Any idea what it could be? I'm doing all I can to avoid having to go the dealer. Thanks in advance.
Hey JBucks1. Sorry to hear you are having that issue. Unfortunately, I can't be much help. Might to time to visit that dealer which I know is an unpleasant trip.
@@TollesonLife All is good, slightly embarrassed to have to admit, I realized after the flush that , fortunately I never hit had to hit the brakes hard enough to know the behavior of the ABS, I only did it as it was recommended after the flush. Now knowing it's behavior and some more research it's doing exactly as it should. Lever and pedal pressure is great. ABS light starts up and flashes as normal and goes off shortly after. Normal brakes while riding. After realizing how the ABS behaves when activated I thought something was wrong. After the brakes I went ahead and tackled the clutch with more confidence. Thanks for the follow up and the tutorial. No dealership trip for me 😀 at least not this time. Thanks again, take care.
You guys sure here come a long way since I’ve been watching you. Nice bike. We are getting ready to buy a fifth wheel sold our Tiffin class A. You can stop by anytime and see what I could do better on my videos and leave a comment I believe we’re friends right.
Guys,, to my knowledge there is no testing that proves that ABS activation by braking effectively purges the ABS module. By relying on this practice you risk an ineffective purge and corrosion and failure of the ABS module. IMO it is a very, very low risk but I do not think it is zero. If you follow this advice you should be informed. Also there are devices available to the DIYer that will properly purge the module.
Nice JOB, I do not ride myself, but have friends who do Ride and so I copied the link and sent them your link. They are some retired old S.O. biker friends. Buy copying and pasting your link to an email message. COOL ENJOYED your insight and the skills to getting it right. Thanks for sharing. Stay well and be safe.
Hey Dylan, No need to activate it before flushing. According to my Harley Service Manager, only afterward to remove old fluid out of the ABS module, then flush again. Hope that makes sense.
I had the same problem. You probably had a leaky connection in your drain hose/pump. Notice in his video he tie-wrapped the hose onto the pump inlet. Also try using a short hose. If that doesn't work, you can ditch the hand pump altogether and use the clutch bleed procedure from the service manual. With the cover on, pump the clutch lever five times then hold it while opening the bleed valve; close the valve before the releasing the lever but don't let the fluid level go too low. The clutch fluid will flow freely unless you have a faulty bleed valve. If so those are easy to replace.
Just a tip to speed the process up a little. After you remove the master cylinder cover use your Mityvac to suck the old fluid out of the maser cylinder leaving just a little bit in the master cylinder to cover the port at the bottom so as not to induced air. Then add the new fluid and flush as you said. This way you don’t have to run all the old fluid through the system to flush it out, also less contamination of the new fluid.
You are so right Jeff, I was just so concerned with screwing it up with that ABS module...Thanks man!
Thank you for your instructive and comprehensive video. I like the way you do it and also your way of speaking: no shouting or screaming in the camera, but at a normal voicelevel. Thanks again. Greetings from The Netherlands 👍😎
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching! Hope all is well in the Netherlands!
Good job in mentioning the need to activate the abs HCU after fluid change. I live on acreage and in one area the dirt is very firm and level. I get the bike up to ~20mph and hit the brakes. The abs is clikin away. Do this a couple times and I have zero concerns about needing to do more. Also, I called two different HD dealerships and they both said when they perform fluid change and use the Digi Tech, they do not perform a second flush. When my bike had the brake fluid recall in 2018, that HD dealer did not perform a second flush. A 2nd fluid change is easy enough and cant hurt imo.
I see you mention after a flush the ABS clicks when applied. I just flushed mine and the ABS is doing the same thing. I attempted to flush a 2nd time and retry and ABS still clicks. Does it do it for awhile and reset or could it be I introduced air. I don't think I did. ABS makes clicking sound for both front and rear when applied at around 10-15 mph.
@@jbucks166 It makes noise when the abs is working, hard breaking, preventing skidding. It pulses the brake fluid to the calipers so to speak. This can be felt in the brake levers.
@@ridemfast7625 thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought of it but realized I haven't jammed on my brakes in the past to know if the ABS clicking was normal behavior. My brake pressure feels great and normal braking is fine. Only when I jam it quick does it seem to act crazy but I guess it's normal. My gut still tells me otherwise lol . Thanks for your time. Be safe out there
Jbuck - my 2012 StreetGlide owners manual says the clicking is normal.
I used your oil changing video last night and saved myself about $230. Great video
Good to hear Ted!
I wonder how many bikes out there have never had this fluid replacement done. Bummer on the cover not coming off without loosening the exhaust, but, that's why we have tools. Great detailed video again. Thanks for posting.
I'm afraid there are many bikes out there with old brake fluid. Thanks for watching Wingin' It with John!
@@TollesonLife It makes me wonder, I bought my 2018 Goldwing new from the dealer just 6 months ago. Just over 3k miles on it now, but if it sat on the dealers floor for awhile, the fluids could be reaching that timeline for replacement. I dont want to open the reservoir caps to test, as that would introduce moisture from ambient air. Hmmm, need to research my manufacturer date. Thanks again.
Instant Sub. What a thorough and detailed walkthrough of changing the brake fluid on ABS. Thanks for this.
Thanks for coming along with us Grendel Prime! Appreciate ya!
This was the video I've been waiting for! My '15 is overdue. Just tested the fluid and it's at 3% so it's right on the edge. Glad to see you use the manual MityVac. That's the way I want to go because I'm afraid the pneumatic one will work too fast and get air in the lines (doing it alone). When I asked the dealer about this job they quoted 3 hours of labor just for the brakes and said exhaust had to come off for the clutch... on a '15. Around $500 total - I don't think so. Thanks for doing this video and adding to your already great content.
hogdriver88 I thought of you as we were doing it hogdriver88. As mentioned, on my brothers ‘15 Road Glide, we didn’t have to loosen the exhaust, the side cover came right off. All the best my friend.
Lol that is awesome! Thanks brother!
@@Hogdriver88 I have the pneumatic and the valve allows you to control the pull. Open it part way and it pulls the fluid slower. I've been using it for a couple years and like it so far. Ride safe brother.
@@skake1099 Awesome info - thanks and ride safe!
Another fine video. You always do a great job of researching the finer details and explaining the process 👍
Thank you Ken!
Glad to see a new video miss your content, hope you and your wife are staying safe!
Appreciate ya Blayne Byrd!
Good point about the ABS module. I just change the fluid in my CBF500A. Or maybe I didn't LOL Will do it again after running the ABS a few times.
Well done video, thank you. Hope to see you guys back in Sturgis this year, sorry we missed you guys last year.
I found that patience is very important. I did my flush solo. No one around to give a hand. Only getting a quarter turn the bleeding is very slow. Really could not tell by watching needle. I bleed a little to much after taking an extra turn on bleed valve. I did get a little air in the line. Got the air to rise out but tapping on the lever lightly till no more bubbles came out.
Every video you folks do is helpful, thanks a bunch, Wayne Skillings from Windsor Ontario
Thanks 👍 Wayne!
Great explanation of the fluid change particularly about the ABS
Thanks Robert!
Kudos for this video.
I have a '17 Road King and I think it's still running the original brake/clutch fluid.
Every other video I tried searching for would either show the brake flush or clutch flush but not both.
And thanks for that tip on loosening that exhaust.
Glad it helped Joe!
Great video, I just did my 2012 Ultra Limited. Would have never attempted it without these instruction Thanks !!
Glad it helped MirageDriver!
Very good video on completing this procedure. You always do an excellent job explaining in detail and also great video quality. Thank you 👍
Thanks Mike👍
Well done. None better at making service videos. Your awesome man.
I appreciate that Frosty!
@@TollesonLife Your my go to on service man.
In the absence of a helper I was able to set up a Go Pro camera on master cylinder and watch the fluid level on my I-phone as I bled the fluid.
Cycled through about four more times. The system worked.
Good advice, I don't trust my wife pouring fluid in my master cylinder.
Great note on actuating the ABS after the initial change, I’ve never done this and it makes perfect sense.
👍
Darryl, we had to use this as a reference on the road in Albany Ny to bleed the clutch. Thanks for the Very instructive videos. See y’all at Sturgis
Awesome Ted!
While in Deadwood during the Sturgis Rally I lost my clutch. After letting it cool down about 30 minutes clutch started working again on my 2014 Streetglide. Got all brake fluids changed when I got back home. I feel many people don’t realize the importance of changing the brake fluid.
Very well done. I’m getting ready to do this to my Road King
Great Johney!
Excellent Video. Thank you for sharing your process!
Glad it was helpful!
Had an issue with clutch going spongy riding from columbus ohio to norfolk Virginia now I know why, brake fluid breaking down in their as well. Thks for the knowledge changing all three today.
I lost my clutch in Deadwood at the Sturgis Rally. Clutch issues seem to be common with old brake fluid.
Great video!! Thanks for the info on how to get the break fluid out of the abs module.
Thanks William!
Very nice and easy to fallow instructions. I like to ask a question if I may, when you said to run the bike afterwards to pump the ABS and bleed the system again. Do you mean both front and back or just rear? Thank you.
Hello Alvaro, I used both brakes when I activated the ABS and then flushed both front and back. Again, that was according to our Harley Service Manager. Hope that helps.
Looks like you have some Amsoil Brake Fluid on your shelf do you have a preference on which brand of fluid your use? Also approximately how much fluid do you need to purchase to do the fluid change?
Thank you - great explanations and tips. Great job!!
Good job there! I like that tester!
Thanks Terry!
Very thorough explanation, well done.
Thanks.
Thank you palmi palmason!
About to do the same on my 2018...thanks for the video, seems pretty self explanatory, was concern also about doing it myself with ABS!!
Best of luck MelloEllo70, Im sure you can know it out!
Great video! I have a bottle of Dot 4 been meaning to do this awhile on my 2016.
Thanks MD 168! Good luck with the brake fluid flush.
Excellent video man. Subscribed!!
Excellent video sir, thank you for sharing.
Very welcome Babybugspay70!
Excellent. Thank you for a thorough video. The best I've seen. I was quoted over $425 from my local dealer to flush the brakes and clutch. No way. I'm a do-it-yourselfer. Really appreciate the flashback mid-video to show the clutch flush.
Btw, is that RaceDeck flooring in your garage?
Very good Jerry! That is race deck flooring my friend. Ive sold that house now and travel full-time with the RV, bike and car. Plan on doing that for a few years.
Awesome video!! Thanks! My question is about the ABS CPU! Do we have to purge it?
Yes we do Omar, at the end of the video youll see that I activated the ABS several times in a packing lot which pushes the old fluid out of it and allows the new fluid to enter. Then I did a second flush to remove the old fluid that came out of the ABS.. This is all according to the HD Service Manager.
@@TollesonLife thanks!! So you have to bleed it twice basically! Thanks man!
Finally I found a video that explains why I’m having a hard time removing the clutch cover, do have a question tho you mention loosen muffler bolts & header bolts did you just loosen the rear header bolts only to give you clearance? Tia
Hey John, thats all I had to do, just loosen the bolts and it worked for me. Best of luck!
What did you end up doing? Just the rear bolts?
So if I do exactly what you did on Your Awesome video I don't have to take my 2010 Limited FLHTK to a Harley-Davidson dealership to bleed air out of abs system? I already have the % brake tester fluid and pump. My Son and I just recently changed my handle bars to 14 inch ape hangers. So I figured need to change my fluid since % is High. Figured I didn't need to blow over $200.00 from Harley-Davidson. THANKS FOR AWESOME HELPING VIDEO!!!
That's correct Wolverine, according to my Harley Service Manager. Some folks disagree but don't know their source. I went with the Harley folks. All the best!
Great informational video. I already have the exact moisture test tool. But where did you buy vacuum pump ? Is one better than another?
Shoot man, let me look for where I purchased that pump.....Just can't recall right now.
Amazon
"Outstanding, Sir."
🙌🙌
I have a 2015 HD fatboy softail. I also bought the mityvac wish you use to bleed your brakes. I couldn't find the correct tube to fit the bleeder in the kit. I had a tube that I use to my 2016 camry le. I was able to manually the front, but rear was very difficult to do. I am going to the HD dealer to bleed the brakes.
Sorry for the issues Jose!
Thanks your video was very informative and easy to follow.
🙌👍
If you want to test the new fluid you should test what is coming out of the calliper. At 8:14 you tested at the master cylinder. You only tested the new fluid that you just topped up with. Of course it was good, as its straight out of the bottle.
Thanks what I was thinking the fluid doesn't circulate. I was told not to trust a Harley Dealership do to many just remove the fluid in the Master Cylinder.
Opened bottles without a cap will indeed get moisture, however if you put a cap tight on the bottle it will not get moisture into it ...
🙌
If I am going to spend the money saving time to do the job myself, I am going to use a new bottle of $6.19 Amsoil fluid. Just for insurance sake. Even though you are probably right, I am sure the dealer will be using an opened bottle.
Thank you for the super informative video. I do have a quick question about the ABS part, what is that all about? I accidentally popped a piston out of the caliber while cleaning and changing brake pad, and all the dot fluid from I am guess the ABS to the caliber all pour out. I was able to get the piston back in and caliber reinstalled onto the bike with new brake pads, can I just do the fluid change like you did and the rear brake will work? Or at least work long enough for me to ride to the dealer? Thank you again.
Good question? Did you ever get a reply? What did you do?
Awesome tutorial! Just wondering how you would know that the reservoir is emptied a couple times if he is adding fluid as you’re removing it? How do you keep track I guess, is the question? Does the fluid color change to a more clear look possibly? Thank you.
Hey Bob, yes, once you see clear, clean fluid entering your clear hose, you'll know all the old, yellowish, fluid has been removed.
@@TollesonLife awesome, I know it was a dumb question but this is my first time for this so thank you for responding so quickly. Really appreciate it. Keep up the great tutorials.
@@robertlafountaine9108 good question man, good luck to ya!
As an 18 Road Glide owner I find your videos very helpful. This weekend I changed my oil and transmission/primary fluids. You know what was on my shop computer? Your video -- which was very helpful. Keep it up and ride safe.
Awesome WolverineHusky! Glad I could help my friend!
very thorough video. subscribed.
so after the first brake bleed/flush you rode it around for a bit then repeated the same? Thanks
Hello LonerBoi88! Welcome aboard. Thats right, just repeated the same flush and according to my HD Service Manager that's it.
Awesome just what I needed 🤘🏼
Great Mark! Glad it helped.
Great video as usual sir.
Appreciate that sh839c!
This video was very informative, great job!!!
Thanks Bluegrass Riders!
Gracias por el video buen trabajo ok .Saludos desde Alicante - España
Great video!! Can this process be done on the kick stand? or does it need to be done on center stand..Any info would be appreciated.
Raul, you can do this on a kickstand, just have to turn the handle bar to level the master cylinders while you empty and refill.
Awesome video
Thanks b119sfg!
Hello, I was just wondering if changing lines would be the same way being as we empty the lines upon removal and place in empty lines. Can I just vacuum until there is no air? Will the abs allow it?
Does the same procedure apply if for my 2015 Ultra Glide with linked brakes?
Hi, I have done the clutch fluid on my 2018 ultra limited. I had to loosen both exhaust flanges. How did you loosen without taking off heat shields? Thanks Bob
Hello Bob, I did have to loosen the heat shield at the flange, didn't have to remove it, just turned it out of the way enough to get the socket on the bolt. Appreciate you watching!
You called your handlebar reservoir a caliper. LOL
Did I? Sorry about that.....a slip for sure.
Nice!
My Road glide have 2 calipers in the front wheel. I need to do it in both sides?
Yes sir Luis, I didn't film the left side due to the bad camera angle but you do need to do both sides my friend.
Thanks!
Easy to do it with the help of my brother.
What brand pads do you run?? Mine pulsate and want something better when get stuck in rain trying to stop at a light or stop sight.
Hey Wolverine, I just use Harley's brake pads...Seem to work ok for us.
I "thought" pulsating was due to a warped rotor?
@jimbo4260 Not sure. Got brake fluid changed out by dealership, help some. But not sure what best way is to test IF I have a warp rotor ?
So you do both sides filling the same cap for the front brakes, right? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, but it’s my first time ever trying to work on my bike and have my first HD bike (Street Glide). And yes I did a bike manual* just want some clarification is all. I wanna flush it myself cause HD Service is trying to charge me almost $500 for a brake flush.
Outstanding ! Gre8 info.
Thanks Eddie! Glad it was helpful.
Excellent video. Thanks.
You are welcome G!
when you are draining the fluid, can you increase the psi with the bleeder valve open on the caliper while it's bleeding or do you need to close the bleeder valve then increase the psi?
So with the abs being single motor / solenoid, do you to activate abs for both front and rear since they are linked above 30 mph?
On your clutch slave cylinder on The Handlebar I noticed the Round Disc covers the fluid Inlet was not in place not sure if you replaced it before you put the cover back on
It was a very good video keep them coming.
Thanks James! Im not sure, will go back and watch the video to make sure all is squared away. Appreciate you watching!
I loved the video , but I’ll Probably end up taking it to Harley Davidson and let them do all that brake flush and stuff I don’t like messing with that ABS you did make it look easy . Stay safe my Friend . Next time 😎👍
Hey Steve, I certainly understand my friend. Take care!
Can the clutch be more difficult to pull in after fluid change
I had dealer change fluid but I feel like pull should be softer .other bikes feel little softer pull.but I'm not sure if there is a problem or solution. I mean it works but
What are the tourqe specs for the header flange bolts? I have M8 as well & trying to find info.
Thank you,
Nice video like your shirt as well
Thanks Harry!
👍🤙👍 thx Darryl
Sure thing Flip!
Thanks a lot, really clear info
You're welcome!
Great video...thanks
You are welcome Matt!
Great video
👍🙌
Thank you for this video, i have to do this on my 2012 RGU , never changed it since new.
Glad it helped Bruce!
Thanks for this vid!
Sure thing!
I watched your video and went to change brake fluid on my 2016 Street Glide Special. After much effort trying to get the bleeder to suction out the fluid I removed it and found there is no passage from the top nipple where the dust cap goes to the bottom section where it is threaded and the two holes are on the side of the fitting. Thus no way to suction out the old fluid. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the bleeder fitting with something aftermarket? I had no trouble changing the fluid on my Hyd clutch but have not tried the rear brake until I figure out what is happing with the front brake first. Thanks!
What was your result? If you replaced the bleeder fittings did you go with the Speed Bleeders, they have a built in check valve makes it easier to do yourself.
Thanks for a very informative video
Glad it was helpful Moy Family!
Question, so if you have the abs tool that the dealer has & flush brakes like you did in the video & hook up the tool to purge the abs system do you still have to bleed brakes again? Or do you have to take the bike out and get the brakes to pulse?
Hey Blackout034. No you don't, when the Digital Tech (HD uses) or similar tool is used, according to Harley, no additional steps are required.
@@TollesonLife cool, thanks man! Appreciate the response!
Yes, you do have to bleed them again even with the digital tool. The tool activates the pump without having to ride the bike and slam your brakes on to activate it. Once activated, the abs pump expels the old fluid into the system (same as riding it and slamming your brakes on) thereby contaminating it, which you then have to flush out a second time. I highly recommend anyone who is working on their own bike invest in a service manual, and not solely rely on someone posting a video who may or may not actually know the proper procedures. Also, start by sucking out the old fluid from reservoir first and refill it with fresh, then you are only pulling fresh clean fluid through the system. This also makes it much easier to determine when you have fresh fluid coming out of the bleeder since the fresh and the old is not mixed together and easily distinguished by the color difference.
where you buy oil pump please
I found it on Amazon.
👍👍
Just did brakes on ‘18 SG. Thanks for the informative video. Well done
Gonna tackle the clutch tomorrow and wondering, were you able to get that side cover off by just loosening rear bolts on muffler and the rear head bolts on exhaust to have enough clearance? And any concerns about exhaust leaks after tightening?
Keep the vids coming. Thx
Good deal Daniel, yes, just by loosening the bolts on the rear and rear of the heads I was able to get enough clearance. No issues with leaks after tightening. All the best!
Thanks very much, your the man!
how do you know you are activating the abs?
Thanks
Sure thing Clifford!
Good video.
Thanks!
Activating abs is just simply using the brakes on the road? Or hard braking to activate the system?
Good video btw, thanks brother👌
Hey Jimbo, the ABS module is only activated during emergency braking so I had to go out and try to "lock up" the brakes.....
Thanks man!!
Ah si si, roger that thanks 👌
So how did you exercise the ABS solenoids? What you did doesn’t do that . Good video for old non ABS bikes but with out running the solenoids? Your not doing a ABS flush / bleed. Many ABS units have failed with your method on 09-18 ABS Harley . On your clutch cover when you do get it off? You can lightly trim that chrome cover on the bottom very little.. make clutch bleeds very easy for next time . No touching exhaust ....
Hey Doc. I followed the procedure recommended by the HD Service Manager at my dealership. I did some emergency braking after the first fluid change to activate the solenoids, HD said that would push the old fluid out of the solenoids and fill them with the new fluid. Then I did a 2nd flush. Make sense? Did I miss anything? Thanks for the tip on the chrome cover!
Tolleson Life service manager is and idiot and would likely be fired if anybody at moco knew he even hinted at it.... i have been screwing around trying too build a cheap system to cycle the ABS pump but just havent had time. His way doesnt work. I ended up borrowing a snap on scan tool for customer bikes lately. But its a busy automotive shop I borrow it from.
Lots of more crap fluid comes out using the scan tool. Hammering the brakes to get the solenoids to work doesnt get 20% out of system and pump. Just beaware.... and its not like these abs pumps and solenoids dont fail.... because they do and still are failing. 2017 2 weeks ago and out of warranty.... dealer didnt want too know. Guy bought lines and we removed system as he never wanted abs in the first place.
Thank you for the information. Great video. 🇺🇸👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
You did not change the fluid in the ABS unit other than what was in the passage normally open during non ABS actuation. The valve body flush is not the same as the actuation that takes place during an ABS event.
Hey Thermo's place, I did activate the ABS system to push the old fluid out at the end of the video, then did another flush of the system as directed by my Harley service manager, you still don't think we got it out?
@@TollesonLife An ABS event and a commanded flush are two very different things. Just causing the abs to cycle by over breaking does not flush the valve body. You also state that the system can only be serviced by the dealer. Any decent indy can do it and many owner can do it at home. This is a proper ABS service cycle on the rear brake. Just a laptop and a DTT. ua-cam.com/video/GY8vte3un5k/v-deo.html&feature=share
The biker version of Joel Olsteen.
Your right. Hopefully an illegal alien doesn’t shoot up his garage.
Very helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful Ted!
Testing the fluid after flush in
I F***ed up and vaccumed air into the system, just a few seconds of miss concentration, need to tow bike to dealer, would not even ride it there.... expensive mistake but such is life....
Ouch, sorry to hear that, but hey not the end of the world right👍
Hello Sir, Great tutorials. Hopefully you can help. I attempted a brake fluid flush on my 2014 SGS , All seemed to be fine until I took it for a ride. I attempted to activate ABS and it makes a very strange sound now after the flush. I attempted to flush a second time and take for a ride and again same thing. ABS seems to be malfunctioning. I tried both front and rear and the ABS does not work as it did. On startup the ABS light flashed , a minute into the ride it shuts off as normal. Once I apply hard brake the module makes that clicking/clunking sound. Did I introduce air at some point possibly? Any idea what it could be? I'm doing all I can to avoid having to go the dealer. Thanks in advance.
Hey JBucks1. Sorry to hear you are having that issue. Unfortunately, I can't be much help. Might to time to visit that dealer which I know is an unpleasant trip.
@@TollesonLife All is good, slightly embarrassed to have to admit, I realized after the flush that , fortunately I never hit had to hit the brakes hard enough to know the behavior of the ABS, I only did it as it was recommended after the flush. Now knowing it's behavior and some more research it's doing exactly as it should. Lever and pedal pressure is great. ABS light starts up and flashes as normal and goes off shortly after. Normal brakes while riding. After realizing how the ABS behaves when activated I thought something was wrong. After the brakes I went ahead and tackled the clutch with more confidence. Thanks for the follow up and the tutorial. No dealership trip for me 😀 at least not this time. Thanks again, take care.
@@jbucks166 Awesome!!
You guys sure here come a long way since I’ve been watching you. Nice bike. We are getting ready to buy a fifth wheel sold our Tiffin class A. You can stop by anytime and see what I could do better on my videos and leave a comment I believe we’re friends right.
Thanks Bearfoot Adventures! Yes indeed we are. Will drop by your channel this week! All the best!
Tolleson Life thanks I really do appreciate it
Guys,, to my knowledge there is no testing that proves that ABS activation by braking effectively purges the ABS module. By relying on this practice you risk an ineffective purge and corrosion and failure of the ABS module. IMO it is a very, very low risk but I do not think it is zero. If you follow this advice you should be informed. Also there are devices available to the DIYer that will properly purge the module.
I have mixed emotions about a second flush but I am only a mechanic instructed by UA-cam videos. What is your mechanic background?
Nice JOB, I do not ride myself, but have friends who do Ride and so I copied the link and sent them your link. They are some retired old S.O. biker friends. Buy copying and pasting your link to an email message. COOL ENJOYED your insight and the skills to getting it right. Thanks for sharing. Stay well and be safe.
Hey Dog Man! Hope the video helps your friends with their bikes. Take care out there!
Great video.
Thanks!
Should I activate the ABS module before flushing fluid ? and as well after and then flush fluid again?
Hey Dylan, No need to activate it before flushing. According to my Harley Service Manager, only afterward to remove old fluid out of the ABS module, then flush again. Hope that makes sense.
@@TollesonLife yes it does. Thank you for the reply! Rear ABS is easy to activate front took me a few minutes to figure it out, speed bumps! Lol
Did your clutch lever pressure come up right away or did you have to pump it up for a while ?
Came up right away WB
@@TollesonLife I’ve been working on mine for 2 days and can’t get it to pressurize.
@@wb4514 oh man, somethings up…. I’m not sure exactly what….hope you get squared away.
@@TollesonLife Thanks ! I’m going to keep after it !
I had the same problem. You probably had a leaky connection in your drain hose/pump. Notice in his video he tie-wrapped the hose onto the pump inlet. Also try using a short hose. If that doesn't work, you can ditch the hand pump altogether and use the clutch bleed procedure from the service manual. With the cover on, pump the clutch lever five times then hold it while opening the bleed valve; close the valve before the releasing the lever but don't let the fluid level go too low. The clutch fluid will flow freely unless you have a faulty bleed valve. If so those are easy to replace.