Awesome! Same system on my 81’ DeLorean. Was going to dive in to this same adjustment this weekend. Best video I’ve found so far on the process! Also bought a shim kit for the Dist pressure valve that is suppose to help get you the system pressure in spec if needed. Thanks!
@@RetroVW If you were a teacher in a school, your students would be excellent because it is not what the teacher knows but how to convey it. if you have other videos for kjetronic please let me know where can i see them thank you
Great video RetroVW! Thanks for the good info! I have a 1989 Jetta GLI 16V that suddenly started a backfiring behavior when trying to accelerate from "idle". I had been driving the car for a few miles (around 20 miles), so it was completely warmed up. As I was almost "home" when it happened the first time, so I was able to park it before it experienced more than a couple of backfire episodes. I tried re-starting it and it backfired once more, so I left it to sit for a few days in the garage until I can get a chance to investigate. I welcome any "suggestions" you may have as "likely culprits". I only feed it "non-ethanol fuel", so ethanol-associated problems are "not likely" a cause. On the other hand, ethanol helps move water out of the fuel system, so it's "possible" I've accumulated water somewhere in the "re-fueling" process. Perhaps a bottle of "Fuel Dry" is in order as a first step, or would you recommend another approach?
Thanks and sorry for the slow reply. You may have already sorted it by now but from a 16v troubleshooting guide I have, backfiring under load could be a number of things, to check: - Sensor plate and/or plunger in metering head not moving freely. - leaks in air intake system. - Electric fuel pump not operating correctly. - Excessive fuel delivery in control circuit. - Warm control pressure too high/too low Those are to name a few things to check. Good luck and post back if you are still having issues 👍🏻
@@RetroVW THANKS a BUNCH for your comments, Retro! Your reply timing is fine, as I've not been able to work on it since my first post. The car is a "sentimental vehicle", stored in a conditioned garage space quite remote from my house. I'm hoping to make the road trip to it in the next couple weeks, so your timing was perfect. First move is: I'll try cranking it to see how it behaves "totally cold", as the backfiring episode started on a summer day and after the car had been fully warmed up by driving around. If it runs "ok" cold, that would point to the Warm Control Pressure as the culprit................which I believe is also affected by the "Idle Control Valve". As I recall, the backfiring was MOSTLY at idle, and was not an issue if I kept the engine revved up at stoplights. I'll also check over the rubber boots more carefully next visit, and then pull off the one above the sensor plate to check for binding.
@@RetroVW Thanks for the suggestion, Retro, but I had just added some FRESH non-Ethanol before driving it that day. Since it's garaged in an enclosed, semi-conditioned space, I don't have to worry TOO much about "condensation" gathering in the tank....so I tend to keep the fuel level low so that it's easy to "re-fresh the fuel" time to time by adding a couple of gallons. HOWEVER, if I don't find a cracked boot or binding air sensor plate I plan to add ANOTHER couple gallons of FRESH non-ethanol since it is possible that I got "bad fuel" at the station.......because I drove it to the station just fine, then added fuel............I then drove it several more miles and made another stop to make a quick purchase. It was running just fine all the while, until I RESTARTED a few minutes later to return it to the storage garage. Backfiring ensued, and I kept feathering the throttle through all the "stoplights" for the couple miles of return trip keep it running. I was pressed for time that day, and only pulled it into the storage space, shut it down, and lock it up. Sorry for the long reply, but just adding some additional BACKGROUND in case it sparks any other thoughts!
@@panchitox8875 Ok great! so fuel is new then, though it could be a bad batch of fuel since you mentioned the backfiring started shortly after refuelling at the station. I think essentially on these cars you need to have a KJet Fuel pressure gauge really to properly check and set them up. So I would say you would need to check the fuel pressures to make sure it is all set up correctly and that both System and Control pressures are correct. Also make sure your injectors are working good and evenly balanced, I have another video on how to check the injectors here: ua-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/v-deo.html Hope this helps.
What did you do with the hole you drilled on the WUR ? how did you patch it up ? or no need. Would like to see a similar vid on the back end of the fuel supply. Return Valve replacements, Regulator replacement and general problem solving. (I have hot & warm start issues, slowly working my way through it). Great work ! keep it up
I covered it with a foil type cap I happened to have handy just to keep the dust out. It sits tight against the engine block anyway so should be fine. Hot start could be a bad fuel accumulator. You could check this by seeing if the system holds pressure for 20 mins after you turn off the engine. Ive also read that if you loosen the screw from the back of the accumulator, if fuel comes out then the internal diaphragm is shot meaning its not going to hold pressure. Good luck with the troubleshooting 👍🏻
Great video and explanation- best yet I have seen! I cant find a pressure test gauge set up to buy but can find all the bits apart from the connector end you show going into the metering head- do you know where I could get one or its spec - assuming you made your own test gauge set up.
Thanks 👍 I bought my pressure test kit from a guy on ebay who made the kits himself specific for the CIS Injection on VW Golfs, XR3i etc. I think his name was jamesccbarratt, but looking online I'm not sure he has any for sale anymore. Maybe take a look on ebay to see if anyone else are making kits. If I can find the specs anywhere I will reply back to this post.
Very good explaination, i have a 1988 Escort XR3i which also has K-Jet, is there a specific gauge etc kit to test all the pressures for K-Jet or did you rig it up yourself? Mine runs ok a part from the fact that the fuel economy and CO varies for no apparent reason, it will sometimes do 25Mpg average, sometimes 30-35.
Thanks 👍 The fuel pressure gauge I found on ebay as there was a guy on there who made these, he was selling them for around £60 if I remember correctly. I don't think he is selling them anymore, but I'm sure you could grab the parts online somewhere and make one up as there's not much to it. I think the only difficulty would be sourcing the correct screw fittings for the metering head and fuel lines, but you can probably find this information out from forums. Same here.. the Golf runs ok but I'm sure that its doing mid to low 20's for mpg, lol. I'm pretty confident my fuel pressures are now correct so maybe CO adjustment is next on my list. Good luck with it 😀
dear friend I would like to know if you can help me build the golf test gauge or if you can build it and send it to me letting me know the expense. I still have problems with my sister's car I replaced all the water hoses the car worked well then suddenly it turned off and you don't want to turn it back on anymore. I'm desperate because the car was going well and I was finishing it up.
Hi, I have a K-Jet Corrado and have been toying around with it for a long time, where did you get this pressure tester? I would love to be able to set my WUR.
Nice! Yes, you definitely need a fuel pressure guage to be able to set these up correctly. The fuel pressure gauge I found on ebay as there was a guy on there who made these, he was selling them for around £60 if I remember correctly. I don't think he is selling them anymore, but I'm sure you could grab the parts online somewhere and make one up as there's not much to it. I think the only difficulty would be sourcing the correct screw fittings for the metering head and fuel lines, but you can probably find this information out from forums. In fact, since making my video a fellow UA-camr has listed all the parts needed to make your own, if you check out the description on Grey Goose’s video here: ua-cam.com/video/QlHwmzVmcgI/v-deo.html
He tested the accumulator by seeing if the pressure remains above 2 bar 20 minutes after shutdown, since that is the job of the accumulator, and if the accumulator isnt working as it should it can mess with the pressures
One thing I would do differently is when measuring the 12v feed to the warm up regulator I would check for 12v but also use a bulb to check it doesn't break down under load, and also check them again whilst engine is running.
really good video, i need a gauge set up for my car,do you know what the kjet connections are please? I believe many gauge kits have the non kjet items in them. Also have you got a video of how to set the c02 on these cars please?
It’s best to measure the thread dimensions on the male connection on your fuel distributor. There are lots of different thread sizes and pitches used in K-Jet applications across the different manufacturers, I have some here from MK1 and MK2 GTis and Audis and they are all slightly different.
I assume that that the adjustment was made while the engine was fully warmed up. Does the WUR have to be against the engine and plugged in and warm to read the pressure. Then disconnect and start adjusting?
Can you please do more on the fuel mgmt system. I've recently acquired a 88 scirocco with a 16v k jet and I dont know shit....cant find shit...and prob broke some shit also....
j1mveedubu thanks 👍🏻 when I first got the car I had the engine out and restored the subframe and running gear along with respraying the engine bay in VW Campanella White to give it a fresh clean look. The rest is just general cleaning as it all went back in.
RetroVW nice one, I’m in the process of tarting my 16v engine bay as the external is in good condition but engine bay is letting my mk2 down. Basically adding to the list. 😉
RetroVW the manifold is in great condition but just need a decent cleaning product , but new fuel lines are needed, the common corroded lines. Are you on instagram?j1m_mk2 if you are.😉
I will see what I can do, although I dont have access to a gas tester to measure CO accurately. But there is a basic setup that you can do to get it setup pretty close.
@@RetroVW M12x1.5, source ClubGTi and my KR 16v... just popped out to the shed and measured it. There are lots of different thread sizes across the whole K-Jet range of application, VW, Porsche, Merc and so on. You often hear stories of guys buying gauges online that say it fits K-Jet and then finding that it does not fit their vehicle.
Hi, does anyone know what's the thread on the fuel line? I have some issues with my kr's fuel pressure and I'm going to build similar gauge setup from hydraulic system parts, but the car is pretty far from where I live in so I wouldn't want to go there just to measure it
Hi, I dont have access to my test kit at the minute to double check, but there's a CIS fuel pressure guage listed here that mentions the thread sizes if it helps: www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/warm-up-regulator-wur/227-k-jetronic-pressure-testing-gauge.html Also, the following may help: Injector lines & 5th injector - M8x1 WUR return line - M10x1 ? main pump banjo - M12x1.5 fuel filter input - M14x1.5 fuel filter output - M12x1.5 metering head wur line - M12x1.5 metering head main in/out - M12x1.5 main fuel lines - M12x1.5 accumulator output - M14x1.5 Maybe double check these sizes though before you order any fittings.
I'm sorry but I think drilling a hole on the warm-up regulator is not the right thing to do. First of all you did not mention what was the engine temperature when you were checking the control pressure and secondly when you check the 12 volts power supply to the WUR it was zero voltage, meaning that the heating element and the bimetallic strip will not operate as it should to slowly and steadily increase the control fuel pressure as the engine temperature rises to normal operating temperature. The system pressure by the way was perfect and so as the holding pressure. I believe the voltage supply to the WUR should have been rectified first and then re-check the control fuel pressure again. Your video was very clear. All the best and stay away from covid.
Thanks for the comments 😀 There was a break in the wire connection that was causing zero voltage, I mentioned this in the video at 9:47, which I repaired before continuing with the test. This was one of my early videos so maybe not the clearest of explanations 😆 Thanks and stay safe.
Man, are you sure about measuring the control pressure on running engine? Maybee it is different on VWs, but on '86 SAAB 900i equipped with K-Jetronic, the manual (and even some old SAAB mechanics) say the control pressure should be measured with the engine stopped (and, preferably, when the engine was standstil for a long while, in ideal case overnight, if you want to test COLD control pressure).
Hi, I managed to find this one for sale on ebay here in the UK, but don’t think the seller I bought mine from sells these anymore. If you take a look over at Grey Goose channel youtube.com/@GreyGooseRestorations he has a video where he makes one so might give you some ideas on what to buy 👍🏻
System pressure is adjusted by adding or removing shims on the valve screwed into the side of the metering head. Control pressure is done as shown in the video by adjusting it on the Warm Up Regulator.
I have always loved the sound of these engines.
Awesome! Same system on my 81’ DeLorean. Was going to dive in to this same adjustment this weekend. Best video I’ve found so far on the process! Also bought a shim kit for the Dist pressure valve that is suppose to help get you the system pressure in spec if needed. Thanks!
Thanks! Exactly the info I needed. I am working on my 1979 Porsche 924
Nice 👍🏻 glad it helped.
The best video I have seen explains everything in detail
Thank you very much
Thanks 👍🏻. I appreciate the feedback.
@@RetroVW If you were a teacher in a school, your students would be excellent because it is not what the teacher knows but how to convey it. if you have other videos for kjetronic please let me know where can i see them
thank you
Great tutorial! I've got a 924 which is really lumpy on startup, I'll be testing the control pressure using this video as reference. Thanks again!
Excellent video very informative as a mk2 nut very helpful👍
Matthew Gwatkin thanks, hope it helps 👍🏻
@@RetroVW hopefulk moving onto my next mk2 project very soon. meanwhile keeping busy on my vr6 corrado. keep up the top video's chaps 👍
Great video RetroVW! Thanks for the good info! I have a 1989 Jetta GLI 16V that suddenly started a backfiring behavior when trying to accelerate from "idle". I had been driving the car for a few miles (around 20 miles), so it was completely warmed up. As I was almost "home" when it happened the first time, so I was able to park it before it experienced more than a couple of backfire episodes. I tried re-starting it and it backfired once more, so I left it to sit for a few days in the garage until I can get a chance to investigate. I welcome any "suggestions" you may have as "likely culprits". I only feed it "non-ethanol fuel", so ethanol-associated problems are "not likely" a cause. On the other hand, ethanol helps move water out of the fuel system, so it's "possible" I've accumulated water somewhere in the "re-fueling" process. Perhaps a bottle of "Fuel Dry" is in order as a first step, or would you recommend another approach?
Thanks and sorry for the slow reply. You may have already sorted it by now but from a 16v troubleshooting guide I have, backfiring under load could be a number of things, to check:
- Sensor plate and/or plunger in metering head not moving freely.
- leaks in air intake system.
- Electric fuel pump not operating correctly.
- Excessive fuel delivery in control circuit.
- Warm control pressure too high/too low
Those are to name a few things to check. Good luck and post back if you are still having issues 👍🏻
@@RetroVW THANKS a BUNCH for your comments, Retro! Your reply timing is fine, as I've not been able to work on it since my first post. The car is a "sentimental vehicle", stored in a conditioned garage space quite remote from my house. I'm hoping to make the road trip to it in the next couple weeks, so your timing was perfect. First move is: I'll try cranking it to see how it behaves "totally cold", as the backfiring episode started on a summer day and after the car had been fully warmed up by driving around. If it runs "ok" cold, that would point to the Warm Control Pressure as the culprit................which I believe is also affected by the "Idle Control Valve". As I recall, the backfiring was MOSTLY at idle, and was not an issue if I kept the engine revved up at stoplights. I'll also check over the rubber boots more carefully next visit, and then pull off the one above the sensor plate to check for binding.
@@panchitox8875 great! Hope you manage to get to the bottom of it. Maybe stick some fresh fuel in also if its been sat for a while 👍🏻
@@RetroVW Thanks for the suggestion, Retro, but I had just added some FRESH non-Ethanol before driving it that day. Since it's garaged in an enclosed, semi-conditioned space, I don't have to worry TOO much about "condensation" gathering in the tank....so I tend to keep the fuel level low so that it's easy to "re-fresh the fuel" time to time by adding a couple of gallons. HOWEVER, if I don't find a cracked boot or binding air sensor plate I plan to add ANOTHER couple gallons of FRESH non-ethanol since it is possible that I got "bad fuel" at the station.......because I drove it to the station just fine, then added fuel............I then drove it several more miles and made another stop to make a quick purchase. It was running just fine all the while, until I RESTARTED a few minutes later to return it to the storage garage. Backfiring ensued, and I kept feathering the throttle through all the "stoplights" for the couple miles of return trip keep it running. I was pressed for time that day, and only pulled it into the storage space, shut it down, and lock it up. Sorry for the long reply, but just adding some additional BACKGROUND in case it sparks any other thoughts!
@@panchitox8875 Ok great! so fuel is new then, though it could be a bad batch of fuel since you mentioned the backfiring started shortly after refuelling at the station.
I think essentially on these cars you need to have a KJet Fuel pressure gauge really to properly check and set them up. So I would say you would need to check the fuel pressures to make sure it is all set up correctly and that both System and Control pressures are correct. Also make sure your injectors are working good and evenly balanced, I have another video on how to check the injectors here:
ua-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/v-deo.html
Hope this helps.
What did you do with the hole you drilled on the WUR ? how did you patch it up ? or no need. Would like to see a similar vid on the back end of the fuel supply. Return Valve replacements, Regulator replacement and general problem solving. (I have hot & warm start issues, slowly working my way through it). Great work ! keep it up
I covered it with a foil type cap I happened to have handy just to keep the dust out. It sits tight against the engine block anyway so should be fine.
Hot start could be a bad fuel accumulator. You could check this by seeing if the system holds pressure for 20 mins after you turn off the engine. Ive also read that if you loosen the screw from the back of the accumulator, if fuel comes out then the internal diaphragm is shot meaning its not going to hold pressure.
Good luck with the troubleshooting 👍🏻
Great video and explanation- best yet I have seen! I cant find a pressure test gauge set up to buy but can find all the bits apart from the connector end you show going into the metering head- do you know where I could get one or its spec - assuming you made your own test gauge set up.
Thanks 👍 I bought my pressure test kit from a guy on ebay who made the kits himself specific for the CIS Injection on VW Golfs, XR3i etc. I think his name was jamesccbarratt, but looking online I'm not sure he has any for sale anymore. Maybe take a look on ebay to see if anyone else are making kits.
If I can find the specs anywhere I will reply back to this post.
Very good explaination, i have a 1988 Escort XR3i which also has K-Jet, is there a specific gauge etc kit to test all the pressures for K-Jet or did you rig it up yourself?
Mine runs ok a part from the fact that the fuel economy and CO varies for no apparent reason, it will sometimes do 25Mpg average, sometimes 30-35.
Thanks 👍 The fuel pressure gauge I found on ebay as there was a guy on there who made these, he was selling them for around £60 if I remember correctly. I don't think he is selling them anymore, but I'm sure you could grab the parts online somewhere and make one up as there's not much to it. I think the only difficulty would be sourcing the correct screw fittings for the metering head and fuel lines, but you can probably find this information out from forums.
Same here.. the Golf runs ok but I'm sure that its doing mid to low 20's for mpg, lol. I'm pretty confident my fuel pressures are now correct so maybe CO adjustment is next on my list.
Good luck with it 😀
dear friend I would like to know if you can help me build the golf test gauge or if you can build it and send it to me letting me know the expense. I still have problems with my sister's car I replaced all the water hoses the car worked well then suddenly it turned off and you don't want to turn it back on anymore. I'm desperate because the car was going well and I was finishing it up.
Hi, I have a K-Jet Corrado and have been toying around with it for a long time, where did you get this pressure tester? I would love to be able to set my WUR.
Nice! Yes, you definitely need a fuel pressure guage to be able to set these up correctly.
The fuel pressure gauge I found on ebay as there was a guy on there who made these, he was selling them for around £60 if I remember correctly. I don't think he is selling them anymore, but I'm sure you could grab the parts online somewhere and make one up as there's not much to it. I think the only difficulty would be sourcing the correct screw fittings for the metering head and fuel lines, but you can probably find this information out from forums.
In fact, since making my video a fellow UA-camr has listed all the parts needed to make your own, if you check out the description on Grey Goose’s video here:
ua-cam.com/video/QlHwmzVmcgI/v-deo.html
@@RetroVW Much appreciated - I will look into making one! Thanks for your help.
Hi there! That's not the acumulator actually that's the fuel pressure regulator! But great video dude! 👍
He tested the accumulator by seeing if the pressure remains above 2 bar 20 minutes after shutdown, since that is the job of the accumulator, and if the accumulator isnt working as it should it can mess with the pressures
Great video
Steven Harper thanks 😀
One thing I would do differently is when measuring the 12v feed to the warm up regulator I would check for 12v but also use a bulb to check it doesn't break down under load, and also check them again whilst engine is running.
really good video, i need a gauge set up for my car,do you know what the kjet connections are please? I believe many gauge kits have the non kjet items in them.
Also have you got a video of how to set the c02 on these cars please?
It’s best to measure the thread dimensions on the male connection on your fuel distributor. There are lots of different thread sizes and pitches used in K-Jet applications across the different manufacturers, I have some here from MK1 and MK2 GTis and Audis and they are all slightly different.
@@English_Speaking_Fox brilliant thank you for that mate 👍👍
I assume that that the adjustment was made while the engine was fully warmed up. Does the WUR have to be against the engine and plugged in and warm to read the pressure. Then disconnect and start adjusting?
Yes, I did this whilst the car was warmed up then adjusted.
Good vidéo . What you CO ?
Thanks. I think its around 2% CO.
Can you please do more on the fuel mgmt system. I've recently acquired a 88 scirocco with a 16v k jet and I dont know shit....cant find shit...and prob broke some shit also....
get on the club gti forum, there is a sub section for the kjet injection system and loads of great advice and experience on there
Nice video ;) Is that a PL, KR or ABF engine? Thank you
Daniel Neves thanks ;-). Its a KR engine with standard K-Jet.
Dude that engine bay is mint. What products did you use?. That’s one to be proud of fella.
j1mveedubu thanks 👍🏻 when I first got the car I had the engine out and restored the subframe and running gear along with respraying the engine bay in VW Campanella White to give it a fresh clean look. The rest is just general cleaning as it all went back in.
RetroVW nice one, I’m in the process of tarting my 16v engine bay as the external is in good condition but engine bay is letting my mk2 down. Basically adding to the list. 😉
j1mveedubu cool! Good luck with it. I bet it will look mint when you’ve done it.
RetroVW the manifold is in great condition but just need a decent cleaning product , but new fuel lines are needed, the common corroded lines. Are you on instagram?j1m_mk2 if you are.😉
Did you plug it back in before adjusting. Or did you forget to. Very important
You didn’t show it
you can make a video setting CO ? Please
??
I will see what I can do, although I dont have access to a gas tester to measure CO accurately. But there is a basic setup that you can do to get it setup pretty close.
Are there any DIY methods one can use to measure CO, if so what are they? a wideband wont work i'm guessing?
Any chance u know the fittin thread dementions so i can make on of these guages for my rocco!! Tryin to research the specs
Not off the top of my head but I think I have some thread pitch gauges somewhere. I will dig them out and try to measure the dimensions for you 👍🏻
@@RetroVW M12x1.5, source ClubGTi and my KR 16v... just popped out to the shed and measured it. There are lots of different thread sizes across the whole K-Jet range of application, VW, Porsche, Merc and so on. You often hear stories of guys buying gauges online that say it fits K-Jet and then finding that it does not fit their vehicle.
Hi, does anyone know what's the thread on the fuel line? I have some issues with my kr's fuel pressure and I'm going to build similar gauge setup from hydraulic system parts, but the car is pretty far from where I live in so I wouldn't want to go there just to measure it
Hi, I dont have access to my test kit at the minute to double check, but there's a CIS fuel pressure guage listed here that mentions the thread sizes if it helps:
www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/warm-up-regulator-wur/227-k-jetronic-pressure-testing-gauge.html
Also, the following may help:
Injector lines & 5th injector - M8x1
WUR return line - M10x1 ?
main pump banjo - M12x1.5
fuel filter input - M14x1.5
fuel filter output - M12x1.5
metering head wur line - M12x1.5
metering head main in/out - M12x1.5
main fuel lines - M12x1.5
accumulator output - M14x1.5
Maybe double check these sizes though before you order any fittings.
I'm sorry but I think drilling a hole on the warm-up regulator is not the right thing to do. First of all you did not mention what was the engine temperature when you were checking the control pressure and secondly when you check the 12 volts power supply to the WUR it was zero voltage, meaning that the heating element and the bimetallic strip will not operate as it should to slowly and steadily increase the control fuel pressure as the engine temperature rises to normal operating temperature. The system pressure by the way was perfect and so as the holding pressure. I believe the voltage supply to the WUR should have been rectified first and then re-check the control fuel pressure again. Your video was very clear. All the best and stay away from covid.
I drilled the hole to for adjusting the pressure on full load. Now I have lambda 0.86!
full load or full throttle, I don't know how to say it correctly but I think you understand me.
Thanks for the comments 😀 There was a break in the wire connection that was causing zero voltage, I mentioned this in the video at 9:47, which I repaired before continuing with the test. This was one of my early videos so maybe not the clearest of explanations 😆
Thanks and stay safe.
@@RetroVW can i whatsupp you?
@@wesleysmal9 What's your question? if you post here I can try to help, or perhaps the community can help also.
Man, are you sure about measuring the control pressure on running engine? Maybee it is different on VWs, but on '86 SAAB 900i equipped with K-Jetronic, the manual (and even some old SAAB mechanics) say the control pressure should be measured with the engine stopped (and, preferably, when the engine was standstil for a long while, in ideal case overnight, if you want to test COLD control pressure).
The engine was cold when I started the initial test. I then monitored the change in control pressure as the engine warmed up.
Hi
Where did you buy K jetronic pressure tester?
Hi, I managed to find this one for sale on ebay here in the UK, but don’t think the seller I bought mine from sells these anymore.
If you take a look over at Grey Goose channel youtube.com/@GreyGooseRestorations he has a video where he makes one so might give you some ideas on what to buy 👍🏻
where do you buy that gauge?
how do you adjust the pressure?
System pressure is adjusted by adding or removing shims on the valve screwed into the side of the metering head. Control pressure is done as shown in the video by adjusting it on the Warm Up Regulator.
Hi where did you get your K-jet gauge from?
Thomas Morgan there used to be a guy who made and sold them on ebay. Not sure if he’s still selling them or not.
Thanks
Why lie, the way he tightened the spark plug scared me a bit