Відео

No problem 👍

faces of the halves need to be lapped.

Hi, I managed to find this one for sale on ebay here in the UK, but don’t think the seller I bought mine from sells these anymore. If you take a look over at Grey Goose channel youtube.com/@GreyGooseRestorations he has a video where he makes one so might give you some ideas on what to buy 👍🏻

Thanks 👍🏻 It was 2mm thick steel, plenty strong enough for the size of repair. Just be careful welding near that spot as its close to the inner sill, and mine started burning the wax oil inside. You dont want any fires 😬

I also definitely did not strongman it

Thank you 😊

yep

Thanks 👍🏻. I don’t think you can get these from Amazon as they are used parts from Mk3’s. They probably come up on places such as ebay sometimes. Enjoy your Mk2 Gti 😀

Nice! Yes, you definitely need a fuel pressure guage to be able to set these up correctly. The fuel pressure gauge I found on ebay as there was a guy on there who made these, he was selling them for around £60 if I remember correctly. I don't think he is selling them anymore, but I'm sure you could grab the parts online somewhere and make one up as there's not much to it. I think the only difficulty would be sourcing the correct screw fittings for the metering head and fuel lines, but you can probably find this information out from forums. In fact, since making my video a fellow UA-camr has listed all the parts needed to make your own, if you check out the description on Grey Goose’s video here: ua-cam.com/video/QlHwmzVmcgI/v-deo.html

@@RetroVW Much appreciated - I will look into making one! Thanks for your help.

Buy a bently, i also fiddled with screw fucking myself for a moment. U can try to start, 1/4 turn, try to start, repeat. Till it runs again. Plate has to be at the bottom between that whole 1/8 lip thats at the bottom of the funnel type area.

I ended up getting a new second hand throttle body n ignition coil which did the trick...I also serviced the metering head with new seals etc...Gti runs n pulls great...

The parts I ordered were not Topran parts, they were just shipped in an old Topran box to keep them from rattling around in the larger box.

@@RetroVW That's good! :)

Nice 👍🏻 glad it helped.

Thanks and sorry for the slow reply. You may have already sorted it by now but from a 16v troubleshooting guide I have, backfiring under load could be a number of things, to check: - Sensor plate and/or plunger in metering head not moving freely. - leaks in air intake system. - Electric fuel pump not operating correctly. - Excessive fuel delivery in control circuit. - Warm control pressure too high/too low Those are to name a few things to check. Good luck and post back if you are still having issues 👍🏻

@@RetroVW THANKS a BUNCH for your comments, Retro! Your reply timing is fine, as I've not been able to work on it since my first post. The car is a "sentimental vehicle", stored in a conditioned garage space quite remote from my house. I'm hoping to make the road trip to it in the next couple weeks, so your timing was perfect. First move is: I'll try cranking it to see how it behaves "totally cold", as the backfiring episode started on a summer day and after the car had been fully warmed up by driving around. If it runs "ok" cold, that would point to the Warm Control Pressure as the culprit................which I believe is also affected by the "Idle Control Valve". As I recall, the backfiring was MOSTLY at idle, and was not an issue if I kept the engine revved up at stoplights. I'll also check over the rubber boots more carefully next visit, and then pull off the one above the sensor plate to check for binding.

@@panchitox8875 great! Hope you manage to get to the bottom of it. Maybe stick some fresh fuel in also if its been sat for a while 👍🏻

@@RetroVW Thanks for the suggestion, Retro, but I had just added some FRESH non-Ethanol before driving it that day. Since it's garaged in an enclosed, semi-conditioned space, I don't have to worry TOO much about "condensation" gathering in the tank....so I tend to keep the fuel level low so that it's easy to "re-fresh the fuel" time to time by adding a couple of gallons. HOWEVER, if I don't find a cracked boot or binding air sensor plate I plan to add ANOTHER couple gallons of FRESH non-ethanol since it is possible that I got "bad fuel" at the station.......because I drove it to the station just fine, then added fuel............I then drove it several more miles and made another stop to make a quick purchase. It was running just fine all the while, until I RESTARTED a few minutes later to return it to the storage garage. Backfiring ensued, and I kept feathering the throttle through all the "stoplights" for the couple miles of return trip keep it running. I was pressed for time that day, and only pulled it into the storage space, shut it down, and lock it up. Sorry for the long reply, but just adding some additional BACKGROUND in case it sparks any other thoughts!

@@panchitox8875 Ok great! so fuel is new then, though it could be a bad batch of fuel since you mentioned the backfiring started shortly after refuelling at the station. I think essentially on these cars you need to have a KJet Fuel pressure gauge really to properly check and set them up. So I would say you would need to check the fuel pressures to make sure it is all set up correctly and that both System and Control pressures are correct. Also make sure your injectors are working good and evenly balanced, I have another video on how to check the injectors here: ua-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/v-deo.html Hope this helps.

Thanks 👍🏻. Have you tried places like Heritage Parts Centre ot ClassicVW here in the UK?

@@RetroVW I’m in the States but I’ll try this also. Thank you.

Thanks, I will keep that product in mind for next time 👍🏻

@Raven Master Thanks 👍🏻. I havent checked the breather yet but thats a good shout, I will check and clean that. Yes, setting these cars up and keeping them that way seems to be an ongoing task. What I did with mine was to work through each component logically, so checked for vacuum leaks, checked throttle switch, checked the ISV and wiring, checked and replaced injector seals, checked and set static and ignition timing, checked system and control pressures along with CO setting and balancing injector flow rates etc... the list goes on 😀

@@RetroVW 👍👍 thanks for your reply 👍👍. My car is no longer in daily service which is a welcome relief at times although it never truly let me down in years of 5am starts and late evening finishes in a rough part of town, i love this car. Im a lifelong mk2 gti fan but admit i haven't got your knowledge and expertise with the spanners 👍 the electrical side of things just doesn't sink in with me im afraid, there doesn't seem to be any video's explaining how to check certain things and what to do in idiot simple terms. My ex vw mechanic who was mobile has retired now so im going to have to do a bit more myself i think if i can. Your procedure sounds great, to just work through each area methodically 👍 hopefully taking out some of the guess work. Yes its hard work keeping these cars 'in tune' it seems but when they are right they are fantastic aren't they! 🤣👍 mine is running an abf motor but is using the kr hardware and kjet, all done by a previous owner. I initially thought it was running the abf block with a kr head but the head is stamped 1996. I wanted a kr car to experience the full "kr fury" but this unit can certainly pick her skirt up! 🤣🤣 many thanks for your help your videos are great 👍

Nice! they seem to be a never ending project these old cars, but fun :-)

Nice! Hope you manage to get yours fixed. Cheers 👍🏻

System pressure is adjusted by adding or removing shims on the valve screwed into the side of the metering head. Control pressure is done as shown in the video by adjusting it on the Warm Up Regulator.

Yes, I did this whilst the car was warmed up then adjusted.

yep

Thanks 👍🏻. I appreciate the feedback.

@@RetroVW If you were a teacher in a school, your students would be excellent because it is not what the teacher knows but how to convey it. if you have other videos for kjetronic please let me know where can i see them thank you

I do not have the OEM part number for this unfortunately. These are no longer available so you would have to search for a used one.

​@@RetroVWcan I install mk3 roof gutter on mk2

If you are referring to the pressure at the metering head then this will be the System Pressure. I cover this in my K-Jet Fuel Pressure Testing video here: ua-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/v-deo.html

@@RetroVW however, she made a connection at one point to the plant to also test the enriched regulator. I wanted to test the pressure on the fuel delivery coming from the fuel pump. Do you have a Telegram group where I can post photos? thanks Stefano

And there's me actually driving the car to a petrol station to carry out this test. They didn't half give me some funny looks on the forecourt.....and I nearly left my petrol cap on the roof....

You are marking a point on the distributor body to match a point on your engine near the rocker cover. This is not a precise set point but more for your own benefit so that you can align both points up again when you refit your distributor. Reason being is that your distributor rotates which is how you set your ignition timing. You dont have to mark it but this would mean that you have to reset your timing with a strobe light afterwards, so marking its position saves the hassle later on.

Hmmm.. I think you might struggle as these are no longer available I believe. You would probably have to acquire a replacement metering head and swap out the parts to make a good working one.