How-To Sync / Balance carbs on a Honda CB550
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2016
- This video walks through the process of syncing the carbs on a CB550. the process is very similar on other classic Hondas. DOHC CB750s you can't adjust carb #2 so you just adjust the other three to match.
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When we look at our old videos, we definitely realise how far we have progressed... your channel is great now and you are a pro mate...
you forgot to use the air restrictors to calm the needles down
Please elaborate
I was going to ask about that. Is it an inline valve restrictor our just something that pinches the tube? Im going to try this with my 75 CB550F soon.
@NorCal Rider That's what I used when I had a CB750 years ago. Timing light and dwell meter also.
True .. And talks a lot
Awesome instructional video, ye made it look so easy. 😀👍👍👍
I just bought the kit on Amazon tonight and then I saw your video. Awesome thanks for taking the time for that.
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
goooood. very help full!!
Well done--thanks!
so how do you know what the gauges should be reading? Like I get that everyone says it doesn't matter what they say, just that they're synched, but surely they should have some kind of nominal reading? Mine is a 1978 CB550k brat build but needs some love.
What handlebars do you have on your bike? Asking because I'd like to find similar ones for my CB550.
I have a 78 cb550 with PD46c carbs, do you happen to have write up on how to sync them?
Hi taylor,was hoping for sum advice on my cb750 ,just brought it,would like to put pod filters on mine currently have 115 jets in my keihin 41p carbs ,had them cleaned,whats your thoughts on jet size,if i was to rebore it to a 840 cc you would increase jets as well?. kiwi muz your advice would be very helpfull thanks
Hi Taylor, I wanted to mention to you that I think that your CX500 would be an awesome build video, I know you said that the previous owner messed up on the title and now it's no good, I would just get a bonded title and build it, I mean you already have it...why not, just mentioning it because I see it in the background on your lift collecting dust
Ty for this
Awsome build man! I love following this build. I have a 78 cb550k and recently put the carbsa back on after cleaning. For some reason cylinder one 1 is not firing cylinder 2 is popping and backfiring, cylinder 3 is ok, and cylinder 4 seem to be happy and before the engine cuts out after about 2 minutes. Would a carb sync and a valve adjustment get this thing running properly?
Sounds like that could be ignition related. I would check your coils to make sure everything is working properly.
Thanks for your great videos. I have a problem with the same carbs as those on a cb550four no2 cylinder doesnt pull anysuction when I put my hand over the intake, the other three do. I now have the carbs off the bike and trying to figure out what might be causing this. Any ideas?
Most likely air leak due to worn/cracked boots or a bad clamp. Also, make sure to switch vaccuum gauges on the bad carb with a good one, to rule out bad hose/gauge on the sync tool... check the compression in that cylinder if you need to rule out any valve seat/adjustment issues
Hi, thanks for the vid. I've just stripped my carb for the first time to address the poor idle issue by clearing out the jets but inadvertently removed the sync bolt before I knew what it was (UA-cam mechanic). Can I eyeball it putting back together? I'm going by the flap alignment inside and got them as precisely aligned as possible. Is this correct or are the flaps supposed to be at different angles depending on the side of the carb?
Try and get them al aligned as much as possible so you can get it running then fine tune it from there. As long as they are relatively close you should be able to get it running enough to do a final sync.
if you use air restrictions it will calm those needles down
Cool channel man, helpful stuff... just wondering what pilot and main jets you ended up using with the pod filters? I'm building a 500 atm and am putting pods on it, I realize I'll have to tune it to a few different variables but might be a closer starting point than stock. thanks
All I do is up the main jets to 110s. I have had really good luck with that setup.
Working on my first project- ‘71 CB500. Your channel is so helpful, dude! Can you tell me which cone filters you’re running and what jets and needle settings they required? I’m at 6,000’ but I think I know how to adjust your settings to compensate for the elevation here. Thanks man!
I normally rin UNI filters with 110s main jets. I keep everything else stock.
Unrelated question, how did you mount your speedometer? The stock bracket for that speedo is a single bolt at the bottom, it looks like you have both side of the top tree bolted to it. Was this a custom job? Thanks!
I used two pieces of flat bar with holes at each end to connect from the speedo to the tree.
Awesome and super helpfull !!! Love the series!! I'm busy with a cb350f but the camchain is making some noise, how do I tension it??
I haven't done it on a CB350 but I found this.
Locate your lock nut and adjuster bolt. Then, look in the same area, a little higher, maybe 6" higher, right between your 2 & 3 cyl, tucked in behind your case mounts and 2/3 headers. There is a bolt that angles down and to the rear of your bike, take that out. Start your engine, place a small phillips in the upper bolt hole, and while depressing the phillips, you'll feel and hear the rattle of the camchain. Press down until it quiets, hold there, and then tighten the lower bold to secure the cam tensioner in place.
Oh wow Classic Octane thanks a lot !!!! :D
I just got a 76 cb550 and when I was taking apart the carbs for cleaning I totally disassembled them from the throttle bell crank. In doing so, I had to remove the carb sync screws that you adjust in this video. Is there a good starting point for approximately how many turns out the screws should be now that the carbs are reassembled? Or maybe a pressure level the gauges should read? Thanks and keep making great videos!
Here is somethingI found on how to bench sync them "use a 1/8" drill bit as a gage. Here's how you do it: Adjust the idle screw (the main one) until the 1 carb outside of it is open enough to just let the 1/8" drill bit through. Then adjust the _sync_ screws on the other 3 carbs until the drill bit just fits them as well. You'll probably want to close the idle screw before you bolt them back on the bike, 1/8" opening is pretty big."
What is the screw you're adjusting?
👍👀ja Lüge ich denn 👀👍.sehr gut erläutert 👏👌.
Do you powder coat your frames?
How do you know the initial readings on 2 & # are in specifications?
On the 750's they are not adjustable so you just have to set the other three off of that one. If I understand it correctly it's more important for them to read evenly than the actual reading.
Which bars are those? They are quite nice. Loving the videos too! Keep it up.
They are some universal 35mm clip ons I found on Ebay. I'm happy with the build quality and fit.
www.ebay.com/itm/182146535550
Hey man, can this carb sync tool be used on engines and carbs other than this one?
Yes, it's universal and can be used for most muti-carb bikes.
Please help me, I just got a CB550 and when I start it I need tiny bit of throttle to run then if I let go of throttle it dies, but if I hold it slightly it runs and when I put it into first gear WHILE holding clutch and WHILE I put first gear, still holding the clutch the bike moves forward slowly while I’m still holding in the clutch. WhT is the issue? Do I need to adjust my clutch cable or is the clutch bad, and what about my idle do I need to adjust idle rev screw or is it my carbs
There's a screw where your throttle cable meets the carbs, that determines how much gas goes to your carbs/engine when you're idling, push the screw in more to keep your bike from idling. That's just a superficial fix, but the real issue might be a carb/jet/compression problem. As far as your bike moving forward goes, could be your clutch cable isn't tight enough, or the clutch itself needs to be fixed.
i have a 1981 cb750, it is hard to start, i have to give it alot of gas. it will shut off at idle and even if i squeeze the clutch and brake it will shut off. also it doesnt really have any power, it doesn't accelerate like how i have seen other peoples videos. when it is running there is a clicking noise as if something is broken. any ideas?
+Colin Davis I haven't messed around with the later DOHC bikes a whole lot but I would definitely start with the basics. Ignition timing and valve adjustment can have a huge impact on performance so I would start there. Also, if you haven't already it might be time to pull your carbs off and give them a good cleaning.
What mm are the threads on the brass tubes that goes into the intake?
Tobias Nyborg-Christensen 5mm on my old honda cb400
What size jets do you use with the pod filters?
110s and 38s.
Hello I have some problem with my bike, I have rejettet and put filter pods on but when I give gas while it runs normal it holds on rpm and wont fall down.. I have checked for boots leak from carb and motorhead but nothing. I still replaced them and dont know what other thing I can do to get the RPM fall after giving gas to normal? Please help me here I am going crazy! xP
Have you checked simple things like the throttle cables? They might be getting bound up and not letting the carbs close. Definitely worth checking if you haven't already.
Classic Octane my push cable is destroyed atm but I have ordered new pull and push cables from dime, I also ordered this kit you use here for balancing carbs, I havent done any of that at all since I bought the bike,rejettet and put 4-1exhaust on! so maybe one of the side runs more agressive then the others so it kinda allways drags up the other cylinders pressure and wont fall, the knifes idle screw you adjust here :)??
MafrosFPV - loosen your throttle cable and idle screw
Motion Pro refers to a "master carb" to calibrate their sync tools (gauges/manometer). Do the old CB's have a specific master carb? I've tried searching and no luck so figured I'd run it by you as you seem to be becoming a very handy cb bible.... lol
On some of the CB750s the #2 carb is not adjustable. So you have to set the other 3 to whatever that carb says. That's the only "master carb" I know of.
Ok cool, thanks! Maybe the better question is how did you sync your gauge system?
When syncing do you have to have idle set to some specific rpm
I just have them at the factory setting somewhere around 900-1000 rpm if I remember correctly.
Ok. I have the same pods and my plugs are bone white even after syncing. I'm going to 110 jets and hope this helps because you can tell the bike is starving. Thx
From what I've read 110 main jets and 40 idle jets work with pods and 4 in 1's
I switched out my Jets to 115 and 40. I installed pods but now my bike want to shut off during idle. Any suggestions?
How come you know to adjust number 1 and 4 to match 2 and 3? How come it wouldn't be match 2 and 3 to 1 and 4?
he builds alot of bikes, and probably knew that 2 and 3 were in the sweet spot, so they became the standard. The gauges have a range highlighted by colour which im guessing is the acceptable vacuum pressure range..
Do you have a favorite DIY manometer design?
I haven't played with the DIY ones yet. I have on the list to make one and do a comparison to the store bought one I have now.
That would be cool. A+
You adjusted the 2 outer ones to match the 2 inner ones but how did you know that the to inner ones were right... and not the 2 outer ones
What you're really doing is making sure they are all synchronized. That's why the actual reading isn't as important as them all reading the same.
Did you rejet for those pods?
110 mains and stock secondaries.
where did you get your new jets at??
A little late, but jetsrus.com carry jets for these 70s CBs.
you should make a how to carb rebuild video... preferrably for 4 carbs
Will do. Thanks for the suggestion.
I rebuilt my carbs. Had two sets from prev owner. Really gummed up on the old ones and the 2nd set was physically breaking down internally due to some idiot putting pennies in the gas tank. Cause this white crud and a breakdown of the metal so i actually rebuilt a new carb set by restoring both and using the best parts. Separating the carbs and soaking them in a big can of Carb cleaner dip for 2 day with a tight seal is the first key step followed by cleaning each little part and replacing any plastics. Wish i did a video.
You need dampeners on the hoses to stop needle jump.
Dude. You forgot to install the plastic restrictors on your synchro hoses. Your needles are all over the place because of it. Your tune could be better when you know where your needles actually are.
You cannot sync carbs with a screwdriver!
Man, wtf?? Learn how to use your tools, post a video after that! Stop wasting viewers time with poor content videos, please
Mate, to stop the needles flying around all over the place, you need to use the little air restricters/dampers that go in-line in each hose. Much easier to read then.