You don't believe it's cylinder wear because there isn't any aluminum in the oil? The cylinder sleeves aren't aluminum are they? 🤔 SMH' Just gear wear and cylinder wear is my guess. edit: parent bore block I'd still say the same. Still running good? Keep Truckin! 😎
There's no sleeves, it's a parent bore block, and the oil analysis doesn't show any aluminum. If a cylinder wall was scuffed I'd imagine to see a ton of aluminum from the piston too
The additive levels are super high. Are you using additives on top of the regular oil? If so STOP. Those are ALL trash and they have no place in the market. Additive chemistry can be competitive/antagonistic, and too high of some of them increase wear. Use a quality oil designed for your application and THAT IS IT. If that doesn't solve the numbers, you have a mechanical problem. Something is just worn and clearances are out of spec.
Ya I talk about the oil and additive I was using in the video. But yes those levels were stupid high. Now I'm gonna run a few oil changes on shell t6 15w40 and sample that and see how that's looking
I'm gonna send oil samples to several different labs and see what different places can tell me. I would like to send out the oil filter for testing, tho It is expensive and I dunno if it's worth spending the money on that vs just tearing into the engine
Get in touch with Dave's auto repair in Utah he has that UA-cam channel and he's an incredible mechanic with a great team. I'm sure you could call him up
If you have good oil pressure. Check with a mechanical gauge. The dash gauge can tell lies. Id pull the cam. Its a 2 day job. I pulled a cam out of a 2001 and it was horendous looking. The engine was out of a bus.. probably idled for days. I gave the owner my extra, stock cam with 156,000 that looked new compared to what came out. and his tappets started wiping it out almost immediately. He didnt want to change tappets. Big mistake. Either check your lash every 5000 or just pull the cam and take a look. Thats what i would do. Could possibly be your trunions galling up as well. Adding to the metal. Thats a good check as well since you would pull them for the cam. Mine were bad on the same engine that had the good cam with only 156,000.
@tdm8817 The rocker arm trunions. I'm probably spelling it wrong. And rocker arms them self can gaul. I actually have a video up on honeing them out and I machined some new oil passages in them. Like the aftermarket have. In hopes i prevent future gauling. I believe they started putting them in the 6.7 cummins from the factory with the extra passages.
@@TheKcdub1000 o got ya. I dint pull the rocker arms when I adjusted the valves but I dint feel any play in them. I did pull one of the valve bridges and that looked like a normal amount of wear given the mileage. I'll have to check that out about the passages. I would definitely like to do something to improve that when I overhaul the engine. I also seen driven diesel offers a 8.3 oil pump and new oil pickup tube to go in the 5.9 and apparently that flows 40% or something more than the 5.9 pump.
@tdm8817 I still don't think this is your main source of metal shavings, though it may contribute. The 8.3 oil pump is for serious hp engines like over 1200 and maybe more. I was going to get one and the pickup tube for my 1000hp build, and they said don't bother. Some times to much oil pressure is not a good thing. And our 5.9 oil pump puts out plenty of pressure and volume. Let me know if you hear diffrent. Good luck on your search. I'm definatly curious as to where it is coming from.
@@TheKcdub1000 ya I know it's not necessary but I'd be curious to try it. My thinking is looking at old enges vs new. A cat 3406b makes 100psi of oil at startup and cool engine temps in the 170 range and I've seen many go over a million miles. Ya look at something like a modern Cummins isx and they only do about 40psi at startup and in the 20 range when warmed up and on top of that run coolant and oil temps extremely high and I've seen a bunch of those fail at 300,0000 400,0000 miles. Granted I know that's comparing apples to grapefruit but it stands to reason to me that cooler temps and lots of oil would be benefital to longer engine life. I'll keep videoing this as I go along and hopefully I find the culprit here soon
Turbo taking a dump !
You don't believe it's cylinder wear because there isn't any aluminum in the oil? The cylinder sleeves aren't aluminum are they? 🤔 SMH' Just gear wear and cylinder wear is my guess. edit: parent bore block I'd still say the same. Still running good? Keep Truckin! 😎
Turbo
Your pistons ride in metal sleeves
There's no sleeves, it's a parent bore block, and the oil analysis doesn't show any aluminum. If a cylinder wall was scuffed I'd imagine to see a ton of aluminum from the piston too
Gear wear , seen it on hi milage Cummins possibly dorman gear not meshing well with other gears .
Ya could be, I'm gonna pull the timing cover here soon and have a look and change the oil pump while I'm in there
The additive levels are super high. Are you using additives on top of the regular oil? If so STOP. Those are ALL trash and they have no place in the market. Additive chemistry can be competitive/antagonistic, and too high of some of them increase wear. Use a quality oil designed for your application and THAT IS IT.
If that doesn't solve the numbers, you have a mechanical problem. Something is just worn and clearances are out of spec.
Ya I talk about the oil and additive I was using in the video. But yes those levels were stupid high. Now I'm gonna run a few oil changes on shell t6 15w40 and sample that and see how that's looking
rotella is the oil you should be using. Too much zinc is no good
see the motor oil geek (lake speed) he has a video on additives
Ya I know, I sense switched to shell t6 15w40 and I've watched all of the videos on his channel and many of the interviews he's done on other channels
You should have sent the the oil to black stone lab and they will tell you Ll the material and send a separate metal sample from the canister housing
I'm gonna send oil samples to several different labs and see what different places can tell me. I would like to send out the oil filter for testing, tho It is expensive and I dunno if it's worth spending the money on that vs just tearing into the engine
Send sample to cummins
If I can firgure out how to email you I can probably give you some insite.
That would be awesome, unfortunately I have no idea how the email on UA-cam works
@@tdm8817 do you have Facebook or instagram? Where I can get a hold of you. I don’t want to put my cell phone number out there for the world
@@tdm8817 I am trying to reply but it won’t upload. Do you have Facebook or instagram? I updated my profile and you should be able to see my email.
@@jkontons6340 no I don't have anything other than just UA-cam. And I don't know how email works with UA-cam, what were ya trying to send
Get in touch with Dave's auto repair in Utah he has that UA-cam channel and he's an incredible mechanic with a great team. I'm sure you could call him up
If you have good oil pressure. Check with a mechanical gauge. The dash gauge can tell lies. Id pull the cam. Its a 2 day job. I pulled a cam out of a 2001 and it was horendous looking. The engine was out of a bus.. probably idled for days. I gave the owner my extra, stock cam with 156,000 that looked new compared to what came out. and his tappets started wiping it out almost immediately. He didnt want to change tappets. Big mistake. Either check your lash every 5000 or just pull the cam and take a look. Thats what i would do. Could possibly be your trunions galling up as well. Adding to the metal. Thats a good check as well since you would pull them for the cam. Mine were bad on the same engine that had the good cam
with only 156,000.
What are you referring to with the trunions? I haven't heard that before
@tdm8817 The rocker arm trunions. I'm probably spelling it wrong. And rocker arms them self can gaul. I actually have a video up on honeing them out and I machined some new oil passages in them. Like the aftermarket have. In hopes i prevent future gauling. I believe they started putting them in the 6.7 cummins from the factory with the extra passages.
@@TheKcdub1000 o got ya. I dint pull the rocker arms when I adjusted the valves but I dint feel any play in them. I did pull one of the valve bridges and that looked like a normal amount of wear given the mileage. I'll have to check that out about the passages. I would definitely like to do something to improve that when I overhaul the engine. I also seen driven diesel offers a 8.3 oil pump and new oil pickup tube to go in the 5.9 and apparently that flows 40% or something more than the 5.9 pump.
@tdm8817 I still don't think this is your main source of metal shavings, though it may contribute. The 8.3 oil pump is for serious hp engines like over 1200 and maybe more. I was going to get one and the pickup tube for my 1000hp build, and they said don't bother. Some times to much oil pressure is not a good thing. And our 5.9 oil pump puts out plenty of pressure and volume. Let me know if you hear diffrent. Good luck on your search. I'm definatly curious as to where it is coming from.
@@TheKcdub1000 ya I know it's not necessary but I'd be curious to try it. My thinking is looking at old enges vs new. A cat 3406b makes 100psi of oil at startup and cool engine temps in the 170 range and I've seen many go over a million miles.
Ya look at something like a modern Cummins isx and they only do about 40psi at startup and in the 20 range when warmed up and on top of that run coolant and oil temps extremely high and I've seen a bunch of those fail at 300,0000 400,0000 miles. Granted I know that's comparing apples to grapefruit but it stands to reason to me that cooler temps and lots of oil would be benefital to longer engine life.
I'll keep videoing this as I go along and hopefully I find the culprit here soon