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California Air Tools Compressor Hot Rodding! Runs My Snap On MG 725!
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- Опубліковано 20 кві 2017
- I wanted to try and get my Little CAT compressor delivering it's specs properly for a Large Snap On impact.
** Very Important **
1) I had to clock the Air switch a bit to access the 1/4" NPT port on it.
2) The "dope" that CAT uses to seal everything against leaks is tough stuff. You'll need a heat gun or torch to loosen it up.
3) Heat the switch around the nipple up to about 180 - 200 degrees very carefully so you don't damage the Switch with heat.
4) Clock the switch a bit so you can add the pipe Hex reducer and the quick connect and hose and not hit the frame
5) Heat the port cover on the switch VERY CAREFULLY to get it loose
Parts Needed:
1/4" MNPT to 3/8" MNPT Hex reducer (Mettle Air)
Milton V Type 3/8" FNPT Quick Connect x 2
Milton V Type 3/8" FNPT Air connector
1/2" Flexzilla Air hose with 3/8" connectors
Add an auxiliary tank to the other tank ports. Beast mode
Love it when people talk like they know. Glad you tested it yourself and shared it with others. You had me at “Crank Bolt” 😂.
Will be looking into getting one. Cheers 🍻
This proves that the regulator and manifold and plastic tubing are holding back the cfm capabilities of the compressor. I did this exact thing to my 4620a California Air tool but for a different reason. My 4620a has a 4.6 gallon tank paired with the 2hp motor that yours has and this fitting is unregulated air directly from the source so I was able to hook up a 5 gallon jockey tank and double my air capacity. It's good to know I can also use this for what you've shown in your video. Great video, great polished faceplate.
I would make some kind of support for that 1/2" line. That is alot hanging off the pressure switch and if you accidentally tugged on the hose or tripped over it, it might snap the tank tube.
I only plug in and use it every Blue Moon. Now it's even every 12th of Never. I have really converted to cordless.
I like my Milwaukee 1/2 cordless impact. Runs forever, and don't need to deal with any of this compressor and hoses nonsense.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😜💪🏻💪🏿😜😜
Can't paint with it
How about doing a quick torque test for us. Zip down some bolts with both hose set-ups and then loosen with thine torque wrench to measure lock down power, Thanks for the post. Les!
Sweet modification, i'll be doing that to mine ASAP.
It helps a lot. This is a sweet "Little" compressor, just needed to get it where it needed to be.
If the tool requires 90 PSI you could also improve flow by setting your cut-in pressure to be above 90 (I would go as high as the switch allows while maintaining a safe cut out pressure), and then put a regulator at the tool down regulating to 90. The air moving through the hose at a higher pressure than through the tool will give you even greater air flow through your 1/2” line.
You are taking your air from your modification upstream of the regulator. That fact in and of itself will have a huge impact on your flow rates. Also means you can't regulate the air down to the recommended 90 psi for your tools unless you set the tank at that pressure. Which would also severely limit the amount of air you have available.
Seems like air tools are obsolete anymore everything's battery power so much better good video
Yeah but battery powered tools don't blow air :)
good catch! the key is the line especially the regulator - regulator has different flow capacity, say A2000/B2000/B3000/B4000 of max 400/2K/3L and 4K L/min, and A2000 - I guess similar as built in one - as 2X pressure drop of B2000. Mine regulator seems never work - same 10020 - and manifold on market is only for 10020C. CAT will forward your email to reseller who tells me CAT has no support. So I am not sure whether 10020C manifold can be used on 10020. BTW, China has made many good regulators, but on US market I can hardly see the famous brands: Airtac, SNS, etc.
of course ..what y doing is common sense..that port is like hooking it up strait to the tank..it doesnt have to go throw all those fittings
It's not line size alone that improved your performance. By connecting to the pressure switch, you bypassed the regulator so you're getting whatever is in the tank. The only reason that the output gauge dropped is because the tank pressure dropped below the regulator set point. The downside to this arrangement is you have no control of your output pressure. If you need to turn down the pressure you can't. Also, you could potentially send too high a pressure to a tool.
Bypassing the stock regulator and supply tube isn't a bad idea, but I'd suggest adding a high performance regulator to the pressure switch output to give you back control. If you're primarily worried about short duration, high flow applications, also consider adding an auxiliary tank. The tank will increase your reserve capacity allowing you to flow more air before the pressure drops too low. The tank could easily be plumbed so it was easy to remove when not needed.
Good advice. I would recommend just buying a bigger air compressor. :)
Haters. Great easy mod! Nothing else needed. Now you have a power tool outlet and two regulated outlets. Nice
wrong
I just purchased the same compressor except it’s the taller tank version same 10 g 2 hp. My version says 6.3 cfm it was $60 more Im not sure why. I like that set up I think I’m gonna do the same. Less resistance needed to the tool
@
jkbuckethead
I think ya missed my point like most here. If I have to knock off a crank bolt. I need it to perform at it's rated flow for just long enough to do one bolt. Then hook back up to the regulated line.
Cool info. I had a 4610AC and it would run an IR Thundergun well enough to break loose a crank bolt or an axle nut.
Reminds me of a medical technique for COPD patients, called "pursed lip breathing". Really great and safe idea if one doesn't exceed max pressure levels of any component in the system, including the tool itself....
See Royce Shearins comment on this video.
Another thing is your pressure is still being regulated. The reason for the difference is not just the hose it's the tiny hoses and fittings they use on them little ass air compressors. So coming directly from the switch will always give you more pressure. Best thing to do is get a man's air compressor with a 3/4 inch output on the side. Good luck
Obviously you are not taking off 10 consecutive crank bolts here. This mod allows you to do what you otherwise could not do; deliver a short burst of the torque your air tool is capable of. I get it and may do this to my own, nice simple mod with no compromise to the integrity of the rest of your compressor.
I have two California Air Tools compressors, both are smaller than yours. Got the first, their cheapest model one from Amazon because I needed one, and I picked up a second ~ slightly larger one locally because I got a deal on it. I love them both, very impressed with the product and all you have to do is hear one of these for 2 seconds after owning a comparable size ear shredding Master craft compressor to fall in love with California Air!
The price is comparable to any similar size compressor - it's a no brain'er in my book.
That's pretty much the reason I did this. Somebody got it...
I have the same compressor with the same problem. Was disappointed with the paper rating vs real world performance. I haven't changed anything yet, but I did notice the regulator and relief valves are cheap and buggy. So figured those needed changing at some point. On the bright side, it's a pretty quiet little bugger.
It is quiet. I thought about trying to pull off all the manifolding and do it over. But it's well done for what it is. This makes it where I can use the rated CFM when I REALLY need it which is not that often and not for real long.
he said "quarter inch nipple" GIGGTY,,,allll Riiiiiiiight
nice video
Isn't the 1/4 nipple off the tank and 1/4 ports on the switch going to restrict air delivered to the 1/2 inch hose ?
If you need 90 PSI, then why do you have the kick-in pressure set to 60 PSI? The pressure switch is adjustable.
My 4610A shipped with 86 PSI kick-in and 114 PSI kick-out, so it needed a small adjustment.
I have since adjusted it. But this has nothing to do with the drop in line pressure from the Manifold setup.
You are totally correct.
I mentioned the pressure switch since it often overlooked, and the compressor blamed for poor performance. Hence I posed my reply as a question :)
Thanks for both replying, and an interesting video.
I noticed when I looked at the performance that the pressure switch needed a tweak or two. I would say now that I have it setup like this, it is doing what it is supposed to do. I will only use the unregulated output only when I need it.
Andrew, I agree with you, however the pressure switch on the California Compressors have a 30 lb range. 120 psi max pressure will restart "kick-in" the compressor at 90psi. This is non adjustable.
Les: If you really want to tweak this compressor find a fix around this issue.
Thx
Good trick if you are in a pinch. But by bypassing the regulator you are running the full 122 psi through the impact chancing blowing out seals. Max on that impact is likely 100 psi. Good thing it is a snap-on.
I normally run it through the regulated circuit. It's basically a "in a pinch" kinda thing.
Really good point! A good idea if the tool can handle the pressure increase.
Thanks for that!
This comparison is inaccurate. You would need a gauge on the other line to compare. Two things are happening here. When you run from the manifold (factory set up), that gauge is affected by the tool running. The manifold is dropping volume, thus pressure drop. When you're running at the switch, you are getting full tank pressure, and the affect on the regulated gauge is not as great because air isn't being pulled from that manifold.
Thanks for the tip! Just got one of these off ebay but havent received it yet.. nice to know.. as you say great for when you’re in a pinch.. ignore all the hate comments 🙄🤣🤣
It's a very nice compressor!
It was Les that had to ignore them,, I don't have to,, So Hey! thanks for your hate comment! Cheers!
i have same compresser .good to know
Great vid
Thanx!
Its all about the volume of air that is delivered to tool
Great modification! How difficult was it to tap in the hex reducer? I'm unfamiliar with this process; could you detail the steps you took and product used?
Easy, just heat up the fitting carefully on the pressure switch. They use some serious locktite/thread sealer
Thanks! So just apply heat with something like a blow torch and then simply unscrew it out? When you screw in the hex reducer, does it increase the diameter of the hole, or does it just use the same hole size and threads that were already there?
Yes it just screws in. It uses Pipe threads. I would use Teflon thread AND Pipe Dope to seal it well. I used a heat gun very carefully so as to not melt the plastic cover on the pressure switch. Worse case scenario, you would have to replace it if you got it too hot. Hair dryer might work.
Just keep heating and trying to loosen the sealing cap. It will try to se-stick itself if you let it cool down while taking it out. The sealing goop is pretty stout.
Oil your impact wrench when you have a bolt you cant get loose it makes a big differance.
Thanx!
Forgive me if I am ignorant here, as I am no expert on air compressors.
It seems the regulated gauge affects only the factory coupling, correct? So the 3/8" hose is getting 120psi at the start.
Once you bypass the regulated gauge, the 1/2" line is getting whatever the tank is pumped up to. Could be more than 120psi, I'm not sure. It *looks* like it's also 120psi, but I'm not sure. Can you let me know?
Yes, that's true. I am pushing unregulated air to that hose connection.
Cheap regulators do not flow well. I usually replace the cheap regulator, but not so easy in this situation because of the manifold system.
I made this setup to run my 1/2" Snapon Impact. Everything else will mainly run through the manifold.
The 3/8" connectors are all regulated. Even if you crank the regulator all the way open, it is a hell of a resistance point as is all the 90 degree turn stuff in the manifold and the hose feeding the manifold.
So 120 PSI off the manifold and regulator is not the same as 120 PSI straight out of the tank. Has to do with resistive losses in the 2 delivery methods. As well as the resistive losses in the 3/8 vs 1/2 inch hose.
Make sense?
I'm considering going all Electric
1/2" for quick burst only........so make sure to sell and buy bigger.
I've gone cordless for most stuff. So this little compressor works great for me.
I have ordered a 2HP/10GAL Cal Air Tools compressor. Should be more than enough to run an LVLP spray gun. I am hoping I don't get a lemon because I have heard more than once that their quality control is non existent, factory testing is a myth and their customer service stinks. Fingers crossed on this $360 investment.
I got mine on a hell of a deal during a sale. I think it was like $179 or something. It has been very good for what I use it for. I have mainly switched over to M18 and M12 Milwaukee cordless. Let me know how it handles LVLP sprayguns. Never heard of those actually. Got a link to the one you are going to use?
That's literally because you've added airspace by adding the other bigger hose...realize it take longer to get to pressure with that set up? Haha
So you are saying that the regulator is inferior and that a better regulator would solve the problem? Regulators have SCFM ratings.
Not just the regulator, the whole manifold, regulator, and that black small hose. Offers too much resistance to flow. I thought about stripping it out and making a new better flowing manifold, but this accomplished what I wanted to do.
Can the old model of this air compressor still be bought somewhere?
Not sure about that. I bought mine a few years ago when they were clearing them out making way for the new model.
Sweet
All great tips. Size does matter! 3/8 (0.375) vs. 1/2 (0.50) ; 1/2" wins (hose and fittings). I have a dedicated line just for impact tools; you can always dial back on the tool (hi,med,low settings) if you must. Its all about flow/volume regarding impacts.
www.miltonindustries.com/colorfit-highflowpro-coupler-plug-kit-7-piece-hi-flo-v-style-1-4-npt-purple.html
You don't have any volume
That’s not a compressor, this is a compressor..!!
length of that hose?
25'
Good Lord, the airflow is only as good as the smallest diameter along the line. 1/4 inch
Some folks never get it. I can't make this flow like 10hp and 3/4" fittings. I'm just trying to get it's rated specs out of it.
Dude, why go through the hassle, why didn't you just add the larger hose to the normal output valve? No matter what you are adapting you have the same exit circumference exiting out of the manifold through the couplings. The only way to maintain pressure is to have a secondary tank with a small air inlet and a larger exit nipple couplings and hose. On its own this little compressor motor cannot keep up with a consistent 90psi.
Solved most of my Problems with New Milwaukee M18 and M12 Fuel Cordless.
I'm thinking the same... Why not just put a bigger air hose at its own outlet?
Check out AVE's video on CFM ratings:
ua-cam.com/video/cfjSm_ieRkE/v-deo.html
You're trying to do a big compressor job with a little pancake compressor problem solved it's not the CFM that you're worried about it's the actual volume that's behind that
I don't think you paid much attention to what I said.
Mine broke a reed valve with less than 10 hours on it. Cheap piece of crap!
this compressor loses the pressure i don't recommend it
CAT sucks. Their shit always breaks down. It’s cheaply made and I had to learn it the hard way after three models that it wasn’t just bad luck but poorly made compressors. All I used it for was engraving. I need a quiet engraver. These are pretty quiet. But pure shit. Hate em. And their customer service. Also sucks.
Your regulator is bad
Could you elaborate?