Thanks Trent. I honestly got so much out of this video mate. I have dappled in grain brewing but I never fully embraced it. This video has rekindled my curiosity in all grain brewing. Thanks again for uploading this and sharing your knowledge
I've been brewing on and off for years (extract + grains) and have always thought that all-grain brewing was much more complex...Thanks for this clear guidance. Once I use up my current extract ingredients, I think I'll try all-grain!
Preparing to make my second ever homebrew. The first time I brewed I bought a cheap kit because I wanted to see if I would enjoy it before spending too much money on anything. Now, I'm looking through your channel for these really helpful videos that help me understand better what I did with the kit. Definitely feeling more confident and looking forward to my second attempt. Thanks for explaining things clearly for newbs like me!
This was the most intuitive and informative video on this topic that I have seen. Most videos on all grain brewing are full of so much jargon that I leave more confused than I came. Thank you
Thank you so much for this video. Ive always brew from malt extract and brewing from grain has always intimidated me. your video makes it much less intimidating. thanks mate.
I've done a few simple brews with Brewdemon's little beer kit myself and as I finish up the last one I've decided I want to try an all grain brew. So I found a simple porter recipe online and I already went out and bought the grains. Wish me luck.
Once you made your first grain beer you will want to make more , my first one I did blew my mind how good it was , I don’t like extracts anymore ,I’m all grain anytime I make my beer , I love it , I’m making a wheat bear now my first one was barley and I loved it , also this time I’m doing open fermentation so interested how it’s going to turn out . Good luck. 🍻👍
As a new brewer I appreciate your videos . Do you a video in regards to milling gains ? If i dont mill fine enough could it cause a stalled fermentation ?
Great video! Any chances we can get an in depth look at BIAB? That BBQ grill tray got me inspired. How much everything costs and the different ways to do it? I have a friend that does it, but he uses a pulley / rope system that looks like too much work for me, thx
Sweet I’d love to do a more in-depth look! And yeah I’ve looked into the pulley system, it certainly would be useful if you are doing large batches or have a hard time lifting the bag. Maybe I’ll upgrade to that eventually. Thank you!
Try both ways, because brewery beers, go for the limit edition....all grains vs extract , I see.both are the ways of living...( Beers cocktails mixed up, taste's great...
Sparging is a good idea, but just pouring hot water over the bag of grain gains you very little. Much better to do a proper BIAB "dunk" sparge, where you soak the grain in a second kettle of hot water for at least 20 minutes. I use my old 5-gallon kettle from extract brewing days. Sparge for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, and then remove the bag and add the second runnings to the main kettle. That'll get you the maximum extraction. For a 5-gallon batch I use about 3.5 to 4 gallons of water for the mash and about 2.5 to 3 gallons for the sparge. With this sparge method combined with vigorously squeezing the bag and milling your own grain at a finer setting, you can get 85-90% mash efficiency.
I havn't done Sake, but I have a video on how to make Makgeolli. Have you heard of Makgeolli? It is unfiltered sake and predates sake. I plan on redoing the video and a tasting soon. colab?
I love your channel. I’ve been looking for info on how much water to use and it’s all over the place. I’m planning on doing an ipa that calls for 13.5lbs of grains… would I be safe to do that in my 8 gallon kettle with the BIAB method or would I need a 10 gallon kettle?
10 gal is a better size for 5 gal batches, you can do a full volume mash in most cases. But if you go 8 (which is what I have) you may need to reserve some water to “sparge” after you pull the bag out to reach the full volume
That would probably be a great size for 3 gallon batches. You could condense the wort and then add water to try and get a larger batch. But you won’t be able to fit all the grains and water needed for a typical 5 gal batch
@@glenwilson1831 I don’t know off the top of my head. If you use a brewing software it will tell you how much of water & grains needed. It really depending on your desired OG. And you have to consider grains absorb water, so def try using a software to help you figure that out
I enjoyed watching the video. Malt syrup produces an authentic style of beer, Prohibition Beer, which is made with syrup that is consistent due to quality control. Soaking high modified, malt and homebrew specialty malt in hot water for an hour produces a style of beer called moonshiners beer, an inconsistent, take what you get beer, that was turned into real ale by a bunch of advertisers that invented CAMRA. According to CAMRA, Weihenstephan, Guinness, Bass, Sam Smith, world renown breweries in business for hundreds of years producing ale, produced industrial ale, not real ale. Absolutely, hilarious. BJCP took over and invented judging criteria and came up with 99 styles of moonshiners beer, which is pretty hilarious. Homebrew instructions are based on producing distillers beer, not on producing ale and lager because homebrew is much easier and quicker to produce than ale and lager. The steps that produce ale and lager are skipped in homebrewing because homebrew books contain very little instructions on producing ale and what is written about ale and lager is confusing and misleading. Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in homebrewing. The problem with the homebrew method is that, chemically and enzymatically, the method cannot produce ale and lager because the high temperature rest denatures low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager, which makes strike and target temperature useless for producing ale. The homebrew method produces extract that is chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, and unstable, which cause off flavors to develop during fermentation and beer with short shelf life. Homebrew is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank when it is green because the beer rapidly, deteriorates during conditioning. To produce ale and lager an entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used. You have conversion and liquefaction mixed up. Beta is responsible for conversion at 140F, 145F is a test temperature. Alpha is responsible for liquefaction, which is entirely different than conversion. Alpha deals with simple and complex starch, Beta deals with sugar. Beta converts simple sugar, glucose released by Alpha during liquefaction, into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that makes ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, which was skipped when the homebrew was made because Beta denatured during the 152F high temperature rest, and chances are, that depending on the level of malt modification an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture would need to be added to the mash for conversion to occur and that's the other reason why the conversion rest is skipped in homebrewing. When a recipe recommends buying two row pale malt without listing the malt house that produced the malt, don't buy the malt. When the malt house is listed, the malt spec sheet can be obtained and a determination of the quality of the malt can be made. There's whiskey malt and brewers grade malt. You have no idea which type of malt you purchased or the quality of the malt that you purchased. Beta is purposely denatured in grain distillation because the enzyme gets in the way due to the extra time it takes for the rest, the fermentation cycle is extend by a week to two weeks, and maltose and maltotriose aren't needed for making whiskey. To produce distillers beer, high modified, malt, a single temperature rest and glucose are only required. To make high octane distillers beer, soak Marris Otter, which is high quality distillers malt at 150F for an hour. After 30 minutes test for starch with iodine, if the starch has liquefied, move on, nothing more will occur. Halcyon and Golden Promise are fine distillers malts, as well. At a temperature of 150F, Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose as possible from amylose within an hour and less, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The more glucose, the more alcohol. There are few malt houses that produce Marris Otter, obtain the malt spec sheet from each producer and purchase the malt that contains 10 percent protein or lower and with the lowest level of malt modification. The less protein, the more sugar. The lower the malt modification (Kolbach, SNR, ST), the richer the malt. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's American malt are under modified and good choices for producing ale and lager. High modified, high protein, malt is more suitable for making whiskey. The higher the modification and protein content of malt, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. A distiller cares less about that stuff because only Alpha is need for making whiskey. A malt spec sheet comes with each bag of malt and it is used for determining the quality of malt before the malt is purchased. There are a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet and without an understanding of the acronyms and numbers it is impossible to produce ale and lager. A recipe is useless without a malt spec sheet. Recipes are, basically, sales flyers and computer generated recipes take the cake. PT Barnum Syndrome afflicts many people. You have body and mouthfeel (dextrinization and gelatinization) confused with sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar, which are contained in the reducing end of the amylose starch chain. Homebrew books make it appear that body and mouthfeel form every time malt is soaked at a high temperature, which isn't necessarily, true. The only time body and mouthfeel form in the homebrew method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare and the link can't be counted on by a brewer. Alpha liquefies amylose at a 1-4 link in the starch chain and when that happens two chains form. The reducing end contains sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The nonreducing end is highly, fermentable glucose. The only purpose of Alpha is to release glucose, one of three building blocks of life, from starch, and the enzyme works quite well at 55F and 98.6F. I'm not sure where homebrews came up with the idea that soaking malt at a high temperature makes ale and lager. A salesman selling distillers malt and writing recipes, perhaps? A type of hard, heat resistant, complex starch called amylopectin contains the sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer, along with a type of protein, which doesn't form at 152F. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. Amylopectin contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make homebrew are not high enough to cause the heat resistant, starch to burst and enter into the liquid before Alpha denatures and the richest starch in malt, although paid for, is unused, and thrown out with the spent mash. That's pretty awesome. A distiller sells amylopectin and maltodextrin is made from it, which is a baking ingredient. Mash is boiled to take advantage of the rich starch. When the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies amylopectin and dextrinization occurs. At the same time gelatinization occurs due to pectin. Pectin is cellular glue that holds beer together during the long conditioning cycle that ale and lager go through. When the steps are skipped beer overly dries and thins during conditioning. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, when that happens, add hops and boil for an hour. Removing hot break makes the extract cleaner and less hops are needed. Skim off second break, as well. The less goop and protein sludge carried over into fermentation, the better. You are light years away from understanding how chemicals work and how they affect the fermentation cycle. It would be best to stop with chemicals for a while, until you understand the brewing process and fermentation cycle. Chemicals are used with a different brewing method where the mash is boiled which causes chemical precipitation to occur upstream of the boiler. In the homebrew method, added chemicals cause more imbalances because chemical precipitation occurs in the boiler, which is too, late, because the enzymes that change the precipitated chemicals into vitamins and nutrients beneficial for yeast and for us are denatured way upstream during the high temperature rest. Homebrew yeast nutrient is needed for making ale and lager. Since, time is time, why spend time on producing low quality distillers beer, when the time can be spent on producing ale and lager? That way, you will be honest when telling someone that the bottle or keg contains ale. To learn how ale and lager are made, start with DeClercks books. Abstracts from the IOB are free online and interesting to read. The IOB made malt, modern in the 19th century when they invented the malt spec sheet and standardized the tests that brewmasters performed on malt and moved the testing procedures into the malthouse. Stay Safe. Stay Thirsty. Stay Brewing.
Wow a lot of great info here thank you for sharing. The goal of my channel is to simplify the brewing process for a beginner or novice brewer so that they can start brewing better beer at home. I know I am skimming over a lot of the exact science, and is to keep things to the base level needed to brew good tasting beer. However I do appreciate you taking the time to write this so others with a desire to learn more can do so. Maybe in the future I can explore more of these topics. Thank you!
Thanks Trent. I honestly got so much out of this video mate. I have dappled in grain brewing but I never fully embraced it. This video has rekindled my curiosity in all grain brewing. Thanks again for uploading this and sharing your knowledge
When youtubers refer to other youtubers' high quality video, my day is instantly better that it's not 100% competition
Came for the homebrew tips, stayed for the shot composition and framing.
Your videos are very helpful, as well as very enjoyable to watch, cheers!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Man that video was packed full of extremely useful information. Nicely done you knocked it out of the park 🍻
Thanks so much, cheers Bradley!
You're on a content train braj! Great Video!
Gotta keep it rolling, thanks man!
Hey it's the OG Braj!
Hey do you have a Guinness clone video by chance Braj?
Thanks Trent. I honestly got so much out of this video mate. I have dappled in grain brewing but I never fully embraced it. This video has rekindled my curiosity in all grain brewing. Thanks again for uploading this and sharing your knowledge
So glad to hear that it helped! Best of luck working your way back into the hobby 🍻
I've been brewing on and off for years (extract + grains) and have always thought that all-grain brewing was much more complex...Thanks for this clear guidance. Once I use up my current extract ingredients, I think I'll try all-grain!
That makes me happy to hear! Glad I could help making it a little easier. Happy brewing!
@@TheBruSho i follow you 💯 from 🇨🇦 #YSW respect back to you
Excellent simple video, Grain Brewing can become very intimidating, great vid for beginners. Well done I get it know 🍺
I wish this was the first video I'd have seen before starting with brewing and fermentation more than 10 years ago. Still helpful to me. Thanks!!
Preparing to make my second ever homebrew. The first time I brewed I bought a cheap kit because I wanted to see if I would enjoy it before spending too much money on anything. Now, I'm looking through your channel for these really helpful videos that help me understand better what I did with the kit.
Definitely feeling more confident and looking forward to my second attempt. Thanks for explaining things clearly for newbs like me!
This was the most intuitive and informative video on this topic that I have seen. Most videos on all grain brewing are full of so much jargon that I leave more confused than I came. Thank you
Awesome, I’m glad you found it useful. I know I wish I had something like this when I started so I wanted to share it!
One of the Best brewing channels I have seen. Thanks for all the info!
Thanks so much! Glad you found me!
I’m sold. I’ve done the Coleman cooler for years. I’m moving to BIAB 10 gallon batches. You convinced me!
Thank you so much for this video. Ive always brew from malt extract and brewing from grain has always intimidated me. your video makes it much less intimidating. thanks mate.
Love to hear that! Best of luck on your journey
Loved it!!! All the best for future brewing!!
I will be hanging around to learn more
I've done a few simple brews with Brewdemon's little beer kit myself and as I finish up the last one I've decided I want to try an all grain brew. So I found a simple porter recipe online and I already went out and bought the grains. Wish me luck.
Once you made your first grain beer you will want to make more , my first one I did blew my mind how good it was , I don’t like extracts anymore ,I’m all grain anytime I make my beer , I love it , I’m making a wheat bear now my first one was barley and I loved it , also this time I’m doing open fermentation so interested how it’s going to turn out . Good luck. 🍻👍
best homebrew channel on YT!
2nd* haha 😉
Awesome video! More depth on how to read recipes and tines of when to add hops at times given kn recipe ❤
Thank you! You explained it all so well!
Your welcome! Thanks for watching
I appreciate your video editing as a creator myself I feel like yours is HGTV quality or food TV😮
Thank you so much for that! And your channel is real nice too. I know where I’m going when I need a new mattress!
Perfect explanation of all grain brewing. Good job man!
Thanks man, appreciate you watching!
Great vid man, very informative. 👍
Thanks buddy! Appreciate that!
Nice job! Great video!!!
Thank you Cheers!
Very helpful! I have watched this video multiple times and even taken notes from you. Love the video editing and knowledge! Cheers! 🍻
I'm so glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching and good happy brewing!
So informative & well done! 🍻
🍺🍺
Great vid, G'Day from Australia.
Hey! Thanks for watching!!
As a new brewer I appreciate your videos . Do you a video in regards to milling gains ? If i dont mill fine enough could it cause a stalled fermentation ?
Great video! Any chances we can get an in depth look at BIAB? That BBQ grill tray got me inspired. How much everything costs and the different ways to do it? I have a friend that does it, but he uses a pulley / rope system that looks like too much work for me, thx
Sweet I’d love to do a more in-depth look! And yeah I’ve looked into the pulley system, it certainly would be useful if you are doing large batches or have a hard time lifting the bag. Maybe I’ll upgrade to that eventually. Thank you!
Another quality vid Musho!
Thank you, appreciate it!
omg thank you so much for this proper video
Thank you! Glad you found it!
Great video!
Thanks a lot for the tutorial
Try both ways, because brewery beers, go for the limit edition....all grains vs extract , I see.both are the ways of living...( Beers cocktails mixed up, taste's great...
Fantastic job!
Thank you!
🎯🎯🎯 Cheers Trent!! 🍻🍻
Cheers!
Quality content!
Thank you! 🍻
Sparging is a good idea, but just pouring hot water over the bag of grain gains you very little. Much better to do a proper BIAB "dunk" sparge, where you soak the grain in a second kettle of hot water for at least 20 minutes. I use my old 5-gallon kettle from extract brewing days. Sparge for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, and then remove the bag and add the second runnings to the main kettle. That'll get you the maximum extraction. For a 5-gallon batch I use about 3.5 to 4 gallons of water for the mash and about 2.5 to 3 gallons for the sparge. With this sparge method combined with vigorously squeezing the bag and milling your own grain at a finer setting, you can get 85-90% mash efficiency.
Wow I hadn’t heard of that. I’ll have to give it a try! Thank you
How do you clean The Brew bag
I want to make malto meal beer in an ale pale 5gal bucket, how do i make this happen
Funny I been doing liquor before beer.
Liquor is easier if you stick with rum, tequila, or ciders.
👍🏼
Thanks for the shouty! Have you ever done sake? That is a video topic not a lot of people have covered yet on YT :)
Your welcome! And no I haven’t but it’s on my list to try. Thanks for the tip!
I havn't done Sake, but I have a video on how to make Makgeolli. Have you heard of Makgeolli? It is unfiltered sake and predates sake. I plan on redoing the video and a tasting soon. colab?
@@Unsub-Me-Now Excited to see a tasting on that, looked super interesting!
@@TheBruSho since upping my youtube game, I plan on redoing the video drive to class style.
I love your channel. I’ve been looking for info on how much water to use and it’s all over the place. I’m planning on doing an ipa that calls for 13.5lbs of grains… would I be safe to do that in my 8 gallon kettle with the BIAB method or would I need a 10 gallon kettle?
10 gal is a better size for 5 gal batches, you can do a full volume mash in most cases. But if you go 8 (which is what I have) you may need to reserve some water to “sparge” after you pull the bag out to reach the full volume
@@TheBruSho thank you for the wisdom! I’ll heat up some water to sparge just in case.
My conical fermenter has a cooling coil right in it. Can I cool the wort in that?
Yup! As long as your fermenter can handle the hot wort (stainless steel or something)
when you say all grain , it means no DME or other type of sugar right?
I think if you use a little DME or sugar I’d still call it all grain as long as the majority of grain bill is malts.
I have a 6.5 gallon brew kettle and want to maximize the amount of beer I make in one batch. How much water/grain would I be able to brew in a bag?
That would probably be a great size for 3 gallon batches. You could condense the wort and then add water to try and get a larger batch. But you won’t be able to fit all the grains and water needed for a typical 5 gal batch
@@TheBruSho I have 13 pounds of grain and would like to use it all if possible. Any idea on the water to grain ratio I’d need?
@@glenwilson1831 I don’t know off the top of my head. If you use a brewing software it will tell you how much of water & grains needed. It really depending on your desired OG. And you have to consider grains absorb water, so def try using a software to help you figure that out
I enjoyed watching the video. Malt syrup produces an authentic style of beer, Prohibition Beer, which is made with syrup that is consistent due to quality control. Soaking high modified, malt and homebrew specialty malt in hot water for an hour produces a style of beer called moonshiners beer, an inconsistent, take what you get beer, that was turned into real ale by a bunch of advertisers that invented CAMRA. According to CAMRA, Weihenstephan, Guinness, Bass, Sam Smith, world renown breweries in business for hundreds of years producing ale, produced industrial ale, not real ale. Absolutely, hilarious. BJCP took over and invented judging criteria and came up with 99 styles of moonshiners beer, which is pretty hilarious.
Homebrew instructions are based on producing distillers beer, not on producing ale and lager because homebrew is much easier and quicker to produce than ale and lager. The steps that produce ale and lager are skipped in homebrewing because homebrew books contain very little instructions on producing ale and what is written about ale and lager is confusing and misleading. Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in homebrewing.
The problem with the homebrew method is that, chemically and enzymatically, the method cannot produce ale and lager because the high temperature rest denatures low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager, which makes strike and target temperature useless for producing ale. The homebrew method produces extract that is chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, and unstable, which cause off flavors to develop during fermentation and beer with short shelf life. Homebrew is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank when it is green because the beer rapidly, deteriorates during conditioning. To produce ale and lager an entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used.
You have conversion and liquefaction mixed up. Beta is responsible for conversion at 140F, 145F is a test temperature. Alpha is responsible for liquefaction, which is entirely different than conversion. Alpha deals with simple and complex starch, Beta deals with sugar. Beta converts simple sugar, glucose released by Alpha during liquefaction, into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that makes ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, which was skipped when the homebrew was made because Beta denatured during the 152F high temperature rest, and chances are, that depending on the level of malt modification an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture would need to be added to the mash for conversion to occur and that's the other reason why the conversion rest is skipped in homebrewing. When a recipe recommends buying two row pale malt without listing the malt house that produced the malt, don't buy the malt. When the malt house is listed, the malt spec sheet can be obtained and a determination of the quality of the malt can be made. There's whiskey malt and brewers grade malt. You have no idea which type of malt you purchased or the quality of the malt that you purchased.
Beta is purposely denatured in grain distillation because the enzyme gets in the way due to the extra time it takes for the rest, the fermentation cycle is extend by a week to two weeks, and maltose and maltotriose aren't needed for making whiskey. To produce distillers beer, high modified, malt, a single temperature rest and glucose are only required.
To make high octane distillers beer, soak Marris Otter, which is high quality distillers malt at 150F for an hour. After 30 minutes test for starch with iodine, if the starch has liquefied, move on, nothing more will occur. Halcyon and Golden Promise are fine distillers malts, as well. At a temperature of 150F, Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose as possible from amylose within an hour and less, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The more glucose, the more alcohol. There are few malt houses that produce Marris Otter, obtain the malt spec sheet from each producer and purchase the malt that contains 10 percent protein or lower and with the lowest level of malt modification. The less protein, the more sugar. The lower the malt modification (Kolbach, SNR, ST), the richer the malt. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's American malt are under modified and good choices for producing ale and lager. High modified, high protein, malt is more suitable for making whiskey. The higher the modification and protein content of malt, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. A distiller cares less about that stuff because only Alpha is need for making whiskey. A malt spec sheet comes with each bag of malt and it is used for determining the quality of malt before the malt is purchased. There are a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet and without an understanding of the acronyms and numbers it is impossible to produce ale and lager. A recipe is useless without a malt spec sheet. Recipes are, basically, sales flyers and computer generated recipes take the cake. PT Barnum Syndrome afflicts many people.
You have body and mouthfeel (dextrinization and gelatinization) confused with sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar, which are contained in the reducing end of the amylose starch chain. Homebrew books make it appear that body and mouthfeel form every time malt is soaked at a high temperature, which isn't necessarily, true. The only time body and mouthfeel form in the homebrew method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare and the link can't be counted on by a brewer. Alpha liquefies amylose at a 1-4 link in the starch chain and when that happens two chains form. The reducing end contains sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The nonreducing end is highly, fermentable glucose. The only purpose of Alpha is to release glucose, one of three building blocks of life, from starch, and the enzyme works quite well at 55F and 98.6F. I'm not sure where homebrews came up with the idea that soaking malt at a high temperature makes ale and lager. A salesman selling distillers malt and writing recipes, perhaps?
A type of hard, heat resistant, complex starch called amylopectin contains the sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer, along with a type of protein, which doesn't form at 152F. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. Amylopectin contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make homebrew are not high enough to cause the heat resistant, starch to burst and enter into the liquid before Alpha denatures and the richest starch in malt, although paid for, is unused, and thrown out with the spent mash. That's pretty awesome. A distiller sells amylopectin and maltodextrin is made from it, which is a baking ingredient.
Mash is boiled to take advantage of the rich starch. When the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies amylopectin and dextrinization occurs. At the same time gelatinization occurs due to pectin. Pectin is cellular glue that holds beer together during the long conditioning cycle that ale and lager go through. When the steps are skipped beer overly dries and thins during conditioning.
Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, when that happens, add hops and boil for an hour. Removing hot break makes the extract cleaner and less hops are needed. Skim off second break, as well. The less goop and protein sludge carried over into fermentation, the better.
You are light years away from understanding how chemicals work and how they affect the fermentation cycle. It would be best to stop with chemicals for a while, until you understand the brewing process and fermentation cycle. Chemicals are used with a different brewing method where the mash is boiled which causes chemical precipitation to occur upstream of the boiler. In the homebrew method, added chemicals cause more imbalances because chemical precipitation occurs in the boiler, which is too, late, because the enzymes that change the precipitated chemicals into vitamins and nutrients beneficial for yeast and for us are denatured way upstream during the high temperature rest. Homebrew yeast nutrient is needed for making ale and lager.
Since, time is time, why spend time on producing low quality distillers beer, when the time can be spent on producing ale and lager? That way, you will be honest when telling someone that the bottle or keg contains ale. To learn how ale and lager are made, start with DeClercks books. Abstracts from the IOB are free online and interesting to read. The IOB made malt, modern in the 19th century when they invented the malt spec sheet and standardized the tests that brewmasters performed on malt and moved the testing procedures into the malthouse.
Stay Safe. Stay Thirsty. Stay Brewing.
Wow a lot of great info here thank you for sharing. The goal of my channel is to simplify the brewing process for a beginner or novice brewer so that they can start brewing better beer at home. I know I am skimming over a lot of the exact science, and is to keep things to the base level needed to brew good tasting beer. However I do appreciate you taking the time to write this so others with a desire to learn more can do so. Maybe in the future I can explore more of these topics. Thank you!
This is perhaps the most interesting comment on a UA-cam video I have seen. Nice work!
Thanks Trent. I honestly got so much out of this video mate. I have dappled in grain brewing but I never fully embraced it. This video has rekindled my curiosity in all grain brewing. Thanks again for uploading this and sharing your knowledge