1789 Strapless Stitched Stays, Patterns of Fashion 5 - how to sew 18th Century Stays video diary
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Follow along as I sew 18th century stays using historical techniques! Historical costuming seems to be experiencing an uptrend lately, thanks to certain individuals becoming quite popular online. I know there are many people out there who are interested in learning to sew, or those of you who know the basics, but don’t know how to apply those skills to something as complex as a pair of stays. If you have been swept up by the notion of historical costuming, but just… haven’t had the confidence to start, this video is especially for you.
Though I do have a fair bit of sewing experience, I am not an expert, or a historian, and I am just beginning my own historical costuming journey. This is my first attempt at historically accurate stays, and my second hand-stitching project. I say this to encourage you. If you want to start historical costuming: go for it. The results will probably exceed your expectations, and it could be the start of something great. I'm sure I made many mistakes in this project that I'm not even aware of, so I do welcome your critique in the comments!
I let this video run quite long, because I wanted the breakdown of details to be as complete as I could possibly make it. If you have already purchased Patterns of Fashion 5, or Corsets & Crinolines, or if you have a stack of fabric sitting guiltily uncut in a drawer, my dearest wish is that this video will give you the courage to make that first cut.
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Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldre...
The cover fabric was B&T medium weight “madder red” linen. It is currently out of stock but it was really not the right weight to use anyways.
Linen Canvas: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
3/4 inch Linen Tape: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
1/4 inch Linen Tape: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
Stay Cord: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
Linen Thread: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
Gum Tragacanth: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Brown Stockings: www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
Buckram tutorial: • Historic Fashion Tutor...
(I swear I’m not trying to make this whole video a B&T ad)
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Music by epidemicsound.com
I swear stays and corsets were women's secret body armor. The joy of punching yourself in the stomach while wearing one is I believe a shared experience.
Never ever doubt your sewing abilities. In the history of seamstresses they were taught by their mothers and grandmother's etc... No one had the qualifications that we have today. It was a share knowledge between women by trial and error. Just remember that every human body shape is different and they would have to compensate for that. So what you have achieved is a total triumph!
This is now, officially, my 2 year goal. In 2 years I want to be able to make this. Right now I'm starting off with simple, easy, peasant stays from various periods just to get my mind around how they work and the concepts, without having to worry too terribly much about quality/prettiness. Essentially I'm just going to make a handful of wearable mockups (and slowly replacing all my bras in the process muahahaha!)
Love this idea! I think I'd like to do the same!
Hey :) how ist your plan going? I would love to pretty much the same, but I don’t know where to get patterns/instructions/pictures of stays worn by peasants. Can you help me with that?
Me too! I’m working on a pair of simple stays/supportive garment with very little boning. I want to be able to replace my bras with these as I get better with sewing lol. Currently I also have to make sure my stomach can handle the pressure, I have endo and so the inflammation I get almost daily makes a lot of pressure really painful. So I’m going to slowly work myself into it. I
@@elizabethculpepper4050 you should research pregnancy stays! They have openings at the sides rather than or additionally to front/back and might make it easier for you to adjust, while keeping the front smooth. :)
@@aliceanne3952 thank you so much! That would solve most of the problems I’m dealing with right now! Thank you so much!!!!! I’ll research them tonight!
You're the only one who actually describes how they are supposed to fit correctly. Without watching you, I would have no idea where the tabs were supposed to start splitting. I learn a lot from you, I love your analyzation of things. I have to understand all the why's and how's before I can make something. Thank you! And I have this book on the way. Unfortunately, I missed the first 4 patterns of fashion books and they're a little beyond my price limit now
Loads of commenters have probably already said this, but ~thank you~ for putting yourself out there, showing off your amazing sewing skills and also promoting the use of protective gear, goggles, ear protectors, etc. In addition, I love that you're showing us your goofs as you make them, not pretending everything went perfectly first time, and also showing your solutions. I wish I had a brain that engineered and thought as laterally as yours :D
that paper trick for spacing the eyelets! Brilliant!!!
Or basic calculus and a very simple division : 40cm divided by 16 eyelets : 2,5cm between each eyelets?
"This has probably been very upsetting for any actual woodworkers out there to watch"...Oh darling, I just wanted to come help you (a band saw would have been so much easier, and less scary). Considering the tools that you had access to, you did great! In the future having a piece of wood that is a cut quarter sawn instead of dos, will provide you with a lot more stability because the grain of the wood can be very stable while being quite thin. Also, oak is a pain in the ass to work (so you deserve applause for working with that with inappropriate tools! It must have taken ages!) Your sewing was lovely and informative, thank you for such a great video!
As a fellow sewing woodworking lass I concur! I just wanted to help her, Wood has grain too and it’s very important to the strength of a piece. But well done to her regardless.
@serendipidus1 If you could find a piece of bamboo without a knot in it, yes it could work. A long piece split from the side of a large piece might not have knots in it. Bamboo is a grass, not a wood, so it's not quite as strong as some woods, but the strength needed is really to give structure to the garment, so I think that it would work.
That math struggle when trying to place the eyelets - SUPER relatable
Me (A person with no sewing skill): Let's just glue it.
Cloraphoba All. ☺️
Outch ^^
Lol
Same
When I saw you wearing that grey NASA sweater I realized that you were involved in not only a costume project but also on a big structural project of engineering...BRAAAVIIIIISIIIMOOO
I use to for an aircraft repair and modification station and every time I see you all the corset crafters I just remembered all the structural and craftsmanship process we were doing on that place.
Once again BRAAAAAVIIIISIIIMOOOO
The tip about not bothering to use the linen thread is very helpful. 👍
Amazing job! These are beautiful!! I think you have trouble with the reed because the channels were a little too small. I use the same reed to bone all my stays. The reason the reed doesn't fit when soaked is because it expands, making an even tighter fit for the channels. Also, if the pattern was drafted for flat boning, the curve of oval-flat reed will take up space in the channel too. Whenever you get to make those fully handstiched stays, check your pattern channels against the size of the boning. I hope this helps, seeing as I had the same issues when first making stays. Much love from a fellow costumer!
Oh my god, simple alterations in the pattern makes a huge difference, it's insane!!! My major diffficulty is how do I know if I need anything to be altered when it comes to small alterations like this. Whether to keep as it is or not.
mockups are nice because you can try different changes and see what they effect, but to an extent, I think you just have to do the best you can and learn how to improve in the future. The stays don't fit me perfectly, I think they ended up a bit tight in the bust, but the best thing about stays is that they are meant to be adjustable.
@@MariahPattie, you may find that they're sufficiently adjustable to accommodate quite a difference in weight.
I retain water in the Summer. I can gain 10 lbs, overnight, when the temps go up.
Yr stays should adjust with you!
Go watch Abby Cox's video on stays & how, while at Colonial Williamsburg, she had a 30 lb difference. (Or is that due to quarantine?) Anyway, her stays accommodate those differences!
You made a beautiful piece & may you wear it with joy.
Congratulations on a well-made pair of stays! I grew up doing 18th century reenactment, and the stays were the only sewing project i actually dreaded when i came back to it as an adult. But a good set of stays MAKES the silhouette and can be more comfortable than a bra, especially for the larger ladies. Bravo!
There is so much more to the video than this one comment.... but the idea of using up cheap thread that we all find migrates into our collections from somewhere over the years..... using it up as basting thread... what a fantastic idea! Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad to see the awkward process of doing up your supportive garments backwards and then scooching it around is a time honored practice
"As whalebone has become rather inaccessible" and "I don't know if I will ever work with reed boning again"
Someone else probably already mentioned this, but you can get synthetic baleen/whalebone online. It behaves really similar to the original stuff, and many prefer it compared to what else is available today. I was reading an old sewing book from 1915 that pointed out that whalebone boning is supreme to all the other types of boning, even when it comes to the "fake"(synthetic) whalebone. The whole book is a treasure trove of information and I can give you more details of pros and cons mentioned for differnt type of boning if you want. ^^
I hope this helps for your future stay making endeavors. :D
in 1915 there was no synthetic baleen. there was plastic boning. but REAL synthetic baleen (plastic boning created to be as similar to baleen as you can possibly get with out it actually being baleen) wasn't made until a few decades ago. It is only made by the german company Wissner.
What is the name of that book though!?!?!? I would LOVE TO READ IT! Trying to get my hands on all the old sewing, fabric, crafts,farming, gardening books that i can!
@@bethanyday3471 Citing the book (translated, because old-ish Swedish is fun and has strange grammar?) "The fishbone spring (boning), that can be found as both genuine and fake and is made of whale baleen or celluloid or other substance, even rubber ((the word used refers to Hevea brasiliensis)). This type of boning is probably the most popular one." Followed by why it is the best type of boning.
It is a very meticulously written book. I simply shoved all of that into "synthetic" and "genuine", haha. XD
Fun fact. The book also brings up wooden boning, "silversteel" boning, aluminum boning, steel boning (both solid and spiral ones) and a specific type of steel boning called "Hercules boning" that was extra strong.
The book is called "Illustrerad sömnadsbok för svenska hem" (illustrated sewing book for Swedish homes) by Aina Nordfeldt published in 1915. The version I have, it was put together with two other books into a larger book called "Hemmets uppslagsbok" (encyclopedia for the home) published in 1918. My mother has the one from 1915 and it is, as far as I have had the energy to compare, exactly the same as the one I have. The 1915 version also contains the two other parts, just the name on the cover is different.
While the book is in Swedish, it does mention the international books that they used as references, although the titles were translated to Swedish. You can probably still find them with the help of google and the authors/publishers. Some might be in German, considering where they were published, but at least one of them is in English.^^
- "Internationell Sömnadskonst" (≈International sewing art) published by "Sömmerskeakademien i Dresden" (the seamstress academy in Dresden)
- "Damgarderobens teori och praktik" (≈The ladies wardrobe theory and practical) published by "Berlin, Klemm & Weiss" (no idea why Berlin is written first in this case)
- "Linnesömnadsteori" (≈The theory of basic sewing) by "Eva Bröhmer, Hannofer"
- "Maskinsömnaden" (≈Machine sewing) by "H. Heldenlein, Stuttgart"
- "Tailormade" by "G. Browne, London"
Hope you can find some of them. They are very educational and brings up so much more details than modern sewing books (imo) ^^
Also, sorry for the wall of text...
@@ThisChaoticKnight Wow, thank you so much. Could you imagine if i got the ones written in swedish and german and then used google translate to translate it all. XD. im sure that would be a hoot
Nope nope, there wasn't at all "plastic boning" in 1915! There was still a little of real whalebones for luxury corseting, but then it was replaced by a cheaper and reliable alternative : the flat spiral-steel boning.@@bethanyday3471
Wonderful. And yes, the red is beautiful against the natural linen, i fell in love when the linen stitching was applied over the top 😍.
And thank you also for showing how much hard work it is, i was looking at prices for custom made stays and they're mega bucks; and now I know why!
*sighs dreamily* i wish i had the patience and optimism to make these as they are beautiful. Well done!
Hi Mariah! Long-time viewer here! Just wanted to thank you for your spiral lacing method in this video. I’m making some stays and I could NOT find instructions for an easy method for spiral lacing anywhere - luckily I remembered you doing this so all I had to do was find this video! It was so easy to follow and now all I have to do is make eighteen eyelets 😅 thank you for your help!!!
Amazing video! Love the music, love the font, loved everything single thing about it! Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much!
I completely agree! I made Elizabethan bodies & used reed boning, but, my reed was really too heavy & wide. Boy, did I have good posture, however!
Soaking the reed & using 1/2" is much better!
You learned many things & I love the result! Way to go!
I second that... 😀
I just picture myself being impaled by a wooden busk.
I know the “Is it clever or is it dumb?” game! We’ve always referred to it as “this is either gonna be brilliant or really stupid”. It amuses me to figure out why I’m not seeing other people suggest it, when it actually works really well. Have people really not stumbled on this solution? Am I in a unique situation, or have access to or knowledge of something very different than most people doing this would? Is there history or tradition involved? Has tech changed? In a different geographic region does weather, climate, circumstances, or availability change how well this would work? Is my female body - height, grip strength, etc, or compensation for previous injuries forcing me to find a different technique? It keeps my brain busy, and keeps me humble enough to keep trying stupid stuff.
I just happened to come across your channel. I had to let you know that I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video. I am primarily a quilter but have an interest in period clothing and it's technical construction. I haven't made clothing much in the last few years since I focus on quilting. I've never made stays, but they are on my to-do list. Thanks again for this great tutorial.
The stays look so well on Ms Mariah Pattie as does that great hair style. All around nice!
Not me rewatching this while binding my first pair of stays lol
I'm the most novice of sewers but have recently taken an interest in sewing and history bounding. I've decided that this would be a fantastic project to work towards doing. My sister just introduced me to your channel, and I Iove this video. Other videos I've seen, I still didn't really understand what is going on. Your video makes me feel like I could actually do this one day.
Those are freaking amazing. I wonder if I have the patience to spend three months doing this. I hope I do because I have always wanted stays. You are a true inspiration.
You could use cotton thread on the sewing machine- it's a better option than the polyester if you're looking for natural materials, and it works normally on a sewing machine, unlike linen. I really admire your perseverance and skill and I love the look of the end result!
@Sofia Assarrar - Polyester thread is also much harsher than the linen and cotton fabrics. With normal bending and flexing of the stays, it can become like a saw blade, disrupting the integrity of the fabrics. This is also why your skirt and pants can get thinner and shinier in the seat when you habitually site on office chairs with poly upholstery. The poly threads sand away your clothing fibers over time.
I will use your video as a reference when making my own stays ☺️
what an amazing outcome. It's lovely. I have everything ready but have been feeling daunted by the process. You have inspired me.
That's exactly how I felt. Go for it! :D
@@MariahPattie How did you actually give yourself the push to start? Was it the deadline or something else as well?
@@thegreywomanshop I just gave myself until the end of the year to finish. It felt like I was being ridiculous coming up with excuses why I should keep waiting. Also, making a mockup was the final push, because it's risk-free and once I saw the pieces take shape and the fit, that was kind of the confidence boost I needed to cut into the real fabric.
@@MariahPattie that sounds very smart. I will attempt a mock up by the end of march.
@@thegreywomanshop Sure, once you have the pattern ready, mockups can be easy. I just use one thick layer of canvas, put a few bones over the seams, and for lacing I have a length of that fashion eyelet trim that I just sew on with big stitches, then rip off later and reuse for other mockups. An afternoon project :)
Something about seeing the sewn boning channels is just extremely satisfying. Boned stays are so beautiful and yours turned out great
Thank you! You look so adorable modelling the stays at the end!
Mariah, the amount of thought that went into the process of building the stays and the sheer amount of attention to detail is now my lifetime goal as a beginner sewing person. I don't have access to nearly as many tools as you had, sure, but I want one day to be able to be as particular and careful about a project as you were with these stays. I'm impatient and get disencouraged easily, but watching your incredible progress from your capsule wardrope sew-a-thon to this encouraged me a lot to practice more often and jump head on to the projects that scare me the most.
I'll just need the money, eventually, but the mindset... The mindset I'm getting inspiration from you.
Congratulations on the amazing piece of 18th century undergarment!
For the tools, contact your hardware stores and ask them if you can rent tools or rent shop space (where you have access to tools). I mean, if you’re going to use the tools a total of 3 times, buying them seems too pricey.
i literally couldn't get myself to skip any of the ads out of respect for your talent and determination ❤
Really enjoyed your video! For future reference, never wear gloves when operating rotating machinery. If you get caught at best you run the risk of breaking your hand. Not trying to be a jerk just offering free advice however unwarranted. The stays are beautiful and I love the detail you put into it and the positives and negatives of your experiences of making them. Thank you for your video!
thanks, Andy told me basically the same thing when they came out. But the sander didn't seem to be grabbing at the gloves, and I'm kind of terrified of that thing as close as I was having to get to it. 🤷♀️ Something I should probably figure out if I need to do this again.
If you wear gloves that fit you snuggly, with no extra room in the finger tips, wearing gloves is fine. I was taught never to wear gloves for that reason myself, but that was also at a time when skin tight work gloves like the style you’re wearing weren’t a thing. Canvas gloves with the leather finger tips that were the common work gloves could never fit close enough to be safe.
And thank you for wearing safety glasses. :)
Beautiful work! I enjoyed watching. These stays are gorgeous ! ❤
They look so good, you did an amazing job! If you ever feel like you want to add straps, check out how American Duchess did the strap & waist hook version, it's in one of their videos on stays. It seems really comfortable and adjustable.
That was a wild ride and they look so perfect for your body shape, and you're completely right with loving that color it is extremely beautiful.
Thank you!
wow, they`re glorious!!! somebody was talking about this before (maybe Cathy Hay?), but there`s this moment when suddenly some pieces of fabric BECOME a dress, and this video made me think of that. just this amazing transformation. when you`re watching materials, scraps and pieces and suddenly there`s a THING and you`re like, when did this happen? magic :)
I feel like there were moments like that all throughout the project. Every step of the process just added a new layer of shape and structure. It was like "oh this is how it's supposed to be", and then "no THIS is how it's supposed to be" over and over 😄
I love your project! I have wanted to do this colour combination ever since I saw a picture of the Corset in the Victoria and Albert museum, but can never find the right fabric in the right colour. You did a fantastic job. Thank you for sharing your work with us.
The length of this video is perfect! It is so important to include the details! You did the whole video very nicely! I really appreciate the diary style so we can get an idea of how long various steps took. It's so easy to watch a half hour video and forget the countless hours, days, weeks, or more that a project takes the maker! You are a beautiful, intelligent, creative, talented, and articulate young lady! I'm excited to subscribe and watch more of your creative work! 💜
Gosh it was years ago when I decided to make an 18th century corset. I had had a couple of corsets made for me before that which were Edwardian and Victorian styles. I loved the 18th century style because I didn't have to fit the bust. Everything was fine machine stitching it but the tabs were impossible. I actually tried to machine sew them using bias tape. It was so hard. Why didn't I think of hand stitching them. Maybe now I can go back and sew some decorative tape on to snug up my tabs a bit. Beautiful work.
This was sooooo helpful. I’m about to embark on making my first stays so it probably won’t be so historically accurate, but definitely helped me get an idea of what’s involved.
17:35 I felt that in my bones. No matter how good one is as maths, it's the simple things that can be the trickiest.
Your solution for painting the gum on the linen was very clever!!!
It's really beautiful, thank you for sharing your process! I'm making a pair from PoF5 myself at the moment, and it's so cool to see so many other examples come to life. And I love the busk!
Wow! You dedication takes you really long way girl
Excellent work ! Don’t be to hard on yourself though. (You reminded me of my younger self) the end result was very good! May I say the “breaking in while the stays are wet” thing could be a very authentic idea. Maybe they used to do this also in the 18th century. We used to break in our jeans that way in the 70’s 😂
Magnificent outcome! Soooooo much work, but so very worth it. Your finished stays are gorgeous and a perfect fit. No wonder they cost 500 dollars and up to buy a ready made pair!!!
Miss Mariah, I loved watching you create your stays and the busk was a first time seeing a modern way to make it.
I had read of sweethearts carving them as gifts to their lady from ivory, . esp thank you for the mock up, the adjustment that made such a difference. . What an amazing sewing journey and so honest. the music was a great plus.. Wonderful. Thank you.
You took the time to really show us just how you did it. Thank you. great video.
Wow, this was an emotional roller coaster and one of the most epic DIY videos I have ever seen!
Your eyelets look so nice! Well done.
They appear to fit you perfectly, and look very comfortable
Easy hack I saw for wooden busks--use one of those wooden paint paddles you can get for free at the paint store. :)
For all your criticisms of yourself, the headaches (eye-strain?) and so forth, you've made a very effective and superbly neatly 'finished' set of stays! Well done. 😊😊😊
Nothing like linen armor to make you feel lady like and feminine 🌼
WOW WOW WOW… what a great video! Thank you for sharing all your ideas & tips. I would love to try making something like this but even though I’ve sewn for years I’m not sure I could accomplish this. Beautiful
I’d be willing to bet that you will end up with incredible posture! They’re beautiful!
Georgeous... thank you for preserving the craft. :-)
thank you!
I have been very reluctant and nervous to start making my very first pair of stays and even though these pairs of stays are a lot more complicated than my pattern, this video gave me the confidence to think i can do it. I loved this whole video
I feel liked I just learned a ton! Your video was great!
I have been watching too many stays and corset videos in the past three months and I'm not even into wearing historical garments let alone making one. This is one of the best videos I have seen so far in terms of editing, pace and also the end result. I really loved the colors, the shape, the fabrics. You are definitely right about the color palette being so beautiful. Now I will go and watch more of your videos 😁
Thank you so much! Whether you want to costume or not, the process is still really fascinating 😄
That is seriously fantastic work and you are so unbelievably beautiful! I've been scratching my head for months over making stays by making my own pattern first based on my OTR corset, then from a duct tape self form, but it's all trash! I almost bought that same pattern you mentioned while being slightly less than thrilled with it. I LOVE what you did. Thank you, thank you for doing all this fine detailed work on camera. I've seen a few other videos and they just didn't make as much sense to me.
Increíble que gente tan joven se interese por las tradiciones y mantener los secretos de costura hasta estos tiempos, gracias!!!
Wow ! Impresive how beautiful it is.Great job.😊👍
There's a cotton thread by Gütermann for quilting, which is thicker than normal cotton thread. It claimes to be for hand sewing, but I've never had problems using it with a 100 needle in the sewing machine. It comes in 50 colours, is prewaxed and looks more like a linen thread than the polyester ones.
For all the hard work and running out of time you did a fantastic job on your stays!
Your stays are beautiful! Well done 👍🏻
oh wow, i remember back in high school when i attempted to make corsets/stays. i used metal boning instead and trying to cut those were impossible without heavy tools. and for the busks i used to use wooden rulers or the free wooden mixer sticks they give you at home depot when you buy paint. lol. back in the day, i took a Victoria secret corset , copied the pattern and worked around it making it more 18th century style but used modern fabrics. with metal boning, it definitely propped up the whole body like nobody's business, but because they came with these rounded metal caps, they were easy to slide in. you just had to clamp them down really well. this was a blast to watch and your so articulate and easy to follow that it makes me want to get back into making them. wishing you loads of success and fun in all you do, love your channel.
I'm in awe. This all is amazing!!
Thank you for this video! I am planning to do the exact same stays one day, and your insights will be so helpful! 😊
Fantastic job! They look awesome. Thank you for sharing.
Love your video!! Thank you for show us your beautiful work!❤️
Awesome work!
THAT was a labor of love ❤️
This was a delightful video and these stays turned out great!
It was lovely to watch you complete this project!!
Love the music!! That corset took a LOT of work! I’ve not seen one with the splits and tabs around the hips..( I’m NO expert... new to vintage clothing fashion) . Good job! It looks great! And I love your end-of-video hairstyle! Maybe a video of how you did it??
That's A LOT OF WORK!!! WELL DONE!!! IT LOOKS AMAZING!!!💜👏
they look so beautiful!! it’s so inspiring
they look incredible!
Watching your work is so mesmerising and educating - thank you so much for making this video!
Absolutely gorgeous. Bravo!
Beautifully done.
Wow, the stays look amazing!
Congratulations! They and you , your hair and makeup, look amazing! Good to know about linen thread on machine. New subbie🇨🇦
Wow. Just wow. And thanks for the inspiration ...
Gorgeous! Both you and the stays!
Great job! What a journey.
Incredible job!
OMG I love it! I love corsets and I so wish I could get one exactly like this one.
Thank you for posting - I'm binding my first pair of stays right now and this is it if I'm going to go back and do anything...hopefully mine turn out as nice as yours did!
Fantastic job, it is so beautiful!!!!!!!!!!
Every time you make a video I learn so much .... thank you. You really made my day :)
I recently started learning sewing during our "stay-at-home" orders, and wow, what an amazing amount of work and a stunning piece you produced! Those colors work very well together. I hope to make some doublets, perhaps in time for whenever Ren Faires are allowed again.
Beautiful and inspiring in every way. Well done! I love your adventurous soul! ☺️
this video was so well done! great job, love your channel, also loved how you shared what you learnt during the process
Thank you for making this video! It’s going to help enormously. Also, your stays are so beautiful
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I love your honest approach about the hates and loves of the project.
so much work, well done!
i think this project turned out well, and i really enjoy your content, both sewing and worldbuilding! i was watching some of your videos last night, so it was a nice coincidence that you posted another one this morning! (p.s. i also really like the color palette! definitely worth it!)