Discussion: Modern Methods to Achieve an 18th Century Silhouette (Historybounding/Costuming/Cosplay)
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2020
- In summary:
A PRINCESS-SEAMED BODICE will help you approximate an 18th century look, but they cannot be laced tightly and they offer no support. Best for those who want the look, but with normal underclothing. I think it would work better without a stomacher.
FULL STAYS will provide the most structure. Best for those looking for back support and pain relief. Will give you the most accurate 18th century silhouette, but they offer the least flexibility.
SHORT STAYS are best for those looking for 18th century aesthetics, but with improved modern flexibility. Only effects the bust shape, but will leave the waist and hips natural. However, you will need to keep the lines in mind when structuring a bodice to wear overtop.
A BONED BODICE can cut down on the layers needed to achieve the silhouette, which is useful for summer attire and sleeveless bodices. Probably best for slim ladies who only need minimal support.
VIDEOS REFERENCED
Bernadette's dress: • Making an 18th Century...
Outlander breakdown: • Analyzing Claire's Bod...
Red stays tutorial: • 1789 Strapless Stitche...
Linen shorts tutorial: • Summer Sewing Tutorial...
Find me elsewhere:
Instagram - / mariahpattie
Pinterest - / mariahpattie
Spoonflower shop - www.spoonflower.com/profiles/...
Myfabricdesigns shop - www.myfabricdesigns.com/Artis...
Music by epidemicsound.com - Навчання та стиль
“If your question is whether I’d rather wear this or a bra, the answer would be neither” is a true mood
😬😅
Being from the Mid-West myself (I live in the center of the lower 48 more or less!) I Fully Endorse this Statement!
Back then they wore chemises because it catches the sweat so you wouldn't feel it. So even in a corset or stays, you'd do pretty well.
A single layer of lightweight cotton would be most people’s preference on those hot, humid summer days - it’s too hot to do anything that needs bust support anyway.
I hope one day historians find you wardrobe and get incredibly confused.
That is my greatest ambition.
Bride: no 50s dress!
Mariah: so 18th century got it
no 1850's tho
@@Crosshill but the rest of the century is free real-estate!
@@Crosshill the 18th century was actually the 1700s btw! so no 1750s I suppose😁
Mariah: "-And I took that as a challenge."
The flash of words read: " Think rootbeer fizz flowing over the top of a cup, vs rootbeer fizz trapped in a bottle. Bad analogy?"
THANK YOU. Even scrubbing second by second the best I got was a haze of darkness, and it was absolutely annoying me like a joke everyone has decided it's more amusing to not repeat when I'm the only one who missed it. You're kind to include us all.
That frame made my dyslexic parts hurt 😭
Those "sportsbra" stays look interesing, it makes me wonder how they would fit if you changed the lacing in the back with a strip of heavy duty elastic (that would provide some ease) and then ad hooks like a modern bra.
That's an interesting idea. For the next pair I'm planning on a front closure with hooks or a zip. Personally, I think I would keep the back lacing for more manual size adjustability, but the elastic idea could work really well for some people.
The thought just came to me because of that video on the hamilton costumes that bernadette did, where they put elastics in the side. Though i have to say, as i have made both back and front lacing stays, the front lacing stays are soooo much easier! So if there is a way to get rid of the backlacing entirely i'd go for it. After all your back barely ever changes while your bust might fluctuate slightly throughout the month.
@@pay1370 good point
As someone with a pretty large bust who hates modern bras, I would recommend late 18th century stays (like 1790s) or regency style stays to anyone who wants to wear stays rather than bras. They are lightly boned and are not as conical as early 18th century stays, so it's a lot easier to move around and they are a bit closer to the "modern" silhouette (more curvy than cone-shaped).
I really want to wear a Regency short stay, but I don't want to wear such a long chemise...is there a way around it?
@@teddypeony185 maybe wear a tanktop underneath
@@Pinkblosemcrafts Thank you so much 🙏🏻💖
@@teddypeony185 your welcome😁
@@Pinkblosemcrafts hope you have a wonderful Sunday and a lovely week this week 💕🤍
I was actually going to put in a request that you do one of your beautiful history bounding capsule wardrobes, but 1700s because I love the lower classes' stays-on-the-outside look and I want it to be workplace acceptable lol
What an interesting idea! I am from Germany. For the bust control portion or even as an alternative to a shift you could wear something like a traditional german "Dirndl Bluse" on top. Its like a small blouse which only goes until under the bust and is worn in place of a historical shift
as someone who suffers frequent bloating and weight fluctuation I started bounding with closures long before anything else, thought I can understand why its the first thing most people ditch. That being said, I would love to see shops carry clothing with closures more like this so that people like me who don't sew don't have to have three wardrobes or buy maternity clothing
It would be great to have ribbon closures, but it wouldn't work in the modern clothing industry. It costs more to add so many eyelets and giving more sizing options prevents people from coming back and buying more clothing. It's sad.
@@cap4life1 I don't ever expect it out of fast fashion but I hope a sustainable brand considers it. Personally I would be willing to pay significantly more for a garment I can wear more than two days a month
This would definitely only be considered by a company for whom sustainability is an integral mandate. Profits before people. Profits before the environment.
Your comment made me wonder if there's a way for me to take some of my favorite modern dresses that don't fit and rig a panel with eyelets and laces to them so I can wear them again. Then if I lose the weight to properly fit into them, I can take the panels out
@@rosem2378 its always worth a try! Id find a dress you don't mind loosing if it goes wrong to try it on first though. I've done something similar to my own dresses and it took me a few tries before I got it right
"If your question is whether I'd rather wear this or a bra, the answer is neither"
Every woman from the midwest: YES!!!!!!!!
Idk, the more hot and humid it gets, boob sweat is a real problem. Blech.
Your videos hit this weird part of my brain that loves sewing and art but also silence and experimentation.
This is so good! We have the same messy problem in our house, I'll need to start setting traps 😂
If you figure out how to make like, a sports bra stays that also flattens the tummy and still flexible to do Ninja stuff, I would LOVE to watch a video on that.
That short stay looks great and probably what I'd like to have to replace my bra. If you could come up with a basic pattern for us to experiment with making our own version ...
I would Literally pay money for that....
@@sarahbrower9239
Red Threaded Regency Short Stays- redthreaded.com/products/regency-short-stays-pattern-individually-sized-paper-pattern
Reconstructing History 834- I tried making the wrap version. Not very good with my larger busts (34DDD), I am getting ready to try the other version after I am done making the Ageless Patterns 1893 Morning Corset. reconstructinghistory.com/product/rh834-early-1800s-stays/
1893 Morning Corset (Full length NOT SHORT) www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/216281255/ag1322m-1893-morning-corset-sewing
Redthreaded.com has patterns and kits to make several styles. They also have them ready-made.
It's like you know what I'm trying to achieve and do the work without me asking! Many many thanks for saving me a year or two of trial and error :-)
I have a true 18th century petticoat that I live in these days, and am making a second. While I agree they don't sit super nicely, I really like the versatility in both the front and back to loosen or tighten depending on the situation. I haven't figured out how to do that with a regular waistband. Plus, 18th century pockets lol
the pockets I think I've figured out, the waist adjustability I'm still working on 🤔
Maybe if you have the waistband be very long and with multiple pockets and some type of dart so it can be bigger or smaller? Something to think about for sure 🤔
Edit: I'm rereading this and I have no idea of what I meant
I'm in the same boat (made a shortened petticoat out of a light weight cotton flannel--it's like wearing a snuggy without overheating shockingly in the southern summer heat wave) and was wondering if wearing a thin bum roll, not enough to add 18th century umph but something for the ties to rest evenly across would work?
I have been playing with waist adjustability ala 18th century petticoats since I found OUT about 18th century petticoats and how genius they are! I have made one true petticoat, but sometimes don't like the feel of the ties around my belly. My second petticoat I made have one opening at the back with a lacing panel for adjustability, and later inserted two drawstrings, I guess, that go from side seam to center back to help with adjustability. This still isn't super comfy when there's so much fabric in the skirts and they are heavy on a narrow-ish waistband. My favorite way, so far, is what I've found with walking-style skirts (usually gored with a gathered back panel, lots of swish) - making the waist band a bit longer, and then if I need to adjust the size at some point I have extra fabric in the gathered back panel and extra fabric in the waistband and can move the closure. ANYWAY. Sorry. I'm obsessed with waist adjustability, but want the comfort too! I think the full 18th century style petticoats would be super comfy over stays to take some of the weight off the waistband.
i really enjoy your iterative approach to design. you bring a sense of scientific exploration to your clothes projects. it's inspiring and fun to watch.
I've been thinking about making a pair of jumps, which were sort of the 18th century version of a sports bra. They used more cording than boning so they were softer, but still had structure and lacing.
I love, love, love how the pink turned out - sparkle zone front? Yes please. And the shorts/sports stays are fantastic. Thank you so much for posting the great video.
I actually LOVE the bridesmaid dress you made! I love the zipper back. Yes, the correct color would be nice but I love how it ended up with the sequin fabric and the flowing back. Stunning.
Ok, I know I am new to drafting patterns, but my jaw dropped when I saw you marking out a pattern on the computer. Is that a drafting program, or is it something like photoshop! I really want to try my hand at that program!!!
Ok, now to the video... I loved it! I just love your 18c sports bra. I decided a month or so ago to try doing something similar using a Regency short stays pattern. I hate my bras, and am hoping it will work out. (Mock-up 1 is cut, and ready for sewing) Wish me luck. LOL
Also, great advice... im definitely going to take your comments and take them into consideration for my stays and future historybounding garments.
Thanks, and will keep watching and giving a thumbs up! :)
@Tiffaney Fakahau - I, too, am interested in the computer program Ms Pattie used. But since nobody has responded to you in the last year, I guess they don't know, either. B^(
I absolutely love every single one of your videos precisely for the same reason I love Bernadette's videos: you both get really excited about details and discussing the process. I'm really glad you took the time to show these four projects of yours and your take away from it.
I began sewing just a few months ago, so I'll probably do quite a few pieces before I get around to trying to make a pair of stays or a corset, but I think it'd help me a lot. I have like, +2" of your bust measurement, which may not sound like much, but up until 4 years ago, I didn't have that much bust at all, so going from small to medium sized bras was a huge difference and it never seems to sit right. It either spills to the sides and gets loose on the straps, or it gets super tight and squished and concentrated on the front. A pair of stays would probably help to have a smoother support and more distributed body fat on the torso.
Okay, enough overexposing, I just really love your videos and will be excitedly waiting for your next one.
Omg your bridesmaid dress is the cutest thing ever!
All I have to say is, "where have you beeen?!? You're absolutely perfect!" And, yes, the bird sas was audible.
That's why my room is a constant mess! It's the nazis!
This channel is like everything I've ever been curious about--thank you for so many ideas I can work with!
This video was SO GOOD
truly AWESOME!!
ok i would LOVE to see a video like this for 19th century silhouettes as well!!
I will just keep saying it: I love your videos 👸🏻
UA-cam recommend this video to me and I am not complaining!! It was super interesting to watch and I am very happy that I found your channel!
I love this! It's so comprehensive and I learned a lot about modernizing historical patterns, which is exactly what I want to do!
Your videos always give such a helpful perspective for things historybounders are thinking about. I’ve been curious to try out jumps as well, along these lines.
I love the brown zipper. It adds something to the overall look.
*mind blown* this is amazing and almost all I could ask for in a video about modernizing historical fashion. Thank you!
You are amazing! Love love love your videos. I don't understand why you don't have waaaaay more followers. Anyway, thanks for another informative and entertaining video! Love from Canada.
I love your channel and your sewing projects, I can't wait to see where you go from here!
this video is everything, I could watch this kind of thing for hours!!!!!
Omg. The grey sports bra one is life. I don't know why but it just looks like such a good mash up! I love see all your videos and your creative ideas!
very good stuff!! i love when you upload 💛 interesting video as always
This video is amazing. You are a nerd in the best possible way. I'm def going to adapt some of these techniques, although I think I'm going in a slightly more dirndl direction with my history bounding. Thanks!
I will watch all your rants and musings about all things 18th century!
So my thoughts are highly on this, thank you for sharing. I feel some sort of connection to you that feels like home. I was shocked to see I wasn‘t subscribed yet!
That bridesmaids dress is absolutely adorable😍
Soooo cool!! I'm working on a modernised 18th century top too, I need to get it finished. I'll definitely add some boning to the back to avoid the puckers
No way! I’ve been thinking about this same thing since watching Bernadettes video too! I started making my first pair of stays just to get that silhouette for historybounding reasons. Thank you for your modern staywearing wisdom!
The pink dress turned out amazing.
I'm so glad this popped up in my feed. I'm a total newbie to corsets, but I'm beginning the process of making some modernized Regency long stays. I'm ready to ditch my bras but I need something that can handle a modern lifestyle and I'm glad to see that trail has already been blazed.
This is a very thoughtful analysis, thank you!
I found this video pretty much by accident, but I'm leaving a well deserved like!
The sports bra must be a godsend, I'm on the big size chest, and I'm hating my bras with all my soul these days, so every new option that could work is very appreciated :'(
I’m trying no modernize a regency stay and this video was quite informative and now I definitely need to try and do an 18th century dress. Yours was quite beautiful.
The pink dress is adorable, you looked great!
So much great information. Saving it to refer to, most likely a number of times in the future. Thanks
This was awesome! I'm new to sewing but really want to make a historybounding dress with inspiration from 18th-century bodices and the dresses from Outlander. I would definitely be interested in more videos that deal with 18th-century inspired clothing.
Loved the video! And the look back on your POF5 stays was a lovely surprise. Now just to work on my next history bounding project 18th century shift as a wearable dress
You're so articulate and well spoken, and you didn't say, "I went ahead and...." not even once 😍
You are a very thoughtful person. I really enjoy watching your videos. I feel like I learn a lot. :)
Just checking out your eyelets here at 11:32 and wanted to mention that those look really, really neat! Great job!
Brilliant!
hahaha the Intro 😂 lmao 😂 now i know the real reason behinde my mess after sewing 😧 The whole Outfit look stunning! 🍀
Stays and corsets are amazing for back pain!! As someone who lives in pain every day, the fully boned corses are amazing for back pain. But I like the only 2 layers or mesh corsets and stays.
This was so educational!
This exactly the video i needed to watch!
Wow was it that long ago you made the stays ? , good lord time has just flew, I loved watching you make them , but then I love watching you full stop ❤️❤️ great video as always ❤️❤️
I have triple ds and stays help my back and chronic pain so much.
Glad your channel was recommended.
You made polyester look elegant. Well done!!
This is exactly what I want to approach history bounding! Deliberately not HA, just drawing from the practical and aesthetic solutions from the past to create unique new stuff! I love your analyze, I love your creations, I am subscribing now!
Edit: also, may I request videos of the process for the sports-stays and bridesmaid gown? I do hope they are coming, I am very interested in more details about how you made these.
That bridesmaid's dress is just stunning
This is such an interesting video. You're very talented. Thank you!
Fascinating,
I'm going to make sure to refer back to this video when I get the courage up to make a pair of stays for myself! It might take me a while; I recently spooked myself by wearing a too-large bra that gave me a lot of pain, so I'm backing off making anything for myself until I get over the nerves that caused
Yeah it's no joke, that's why I like to experiment. I have a corset I made a while back before I realized I was short-waisted and started altering the patterns. The first time I wore it to an evening event, I had serious pain for the next several days. It was too long waisted, pushing down on my hips and pulling up on my back and ribcage. But the more you sew and the more you get to know your body, the better things seem to work.
Omg THANK. YOU. I've been dreaming of making a dress just like hers but couldn't find a way to make it without boning the front bodice or wearing an actual pair of stays underneath cuz this girl got them curves LOL
Wow, it's like you read my mind. I've been thinking of this same idea. I really want the benefit of the bust support and to make it myself so it fits better, but I don't want to have to wear a fill corset for the rest of my life because it seems like overkill and wouldn't go well with a modern outfit and lifestyle. That sport bra one is just what I've been thinking about, so I can bend over and reach things and be more flexible.
A very well thought out and interesting experiment! 👍And yeah, our apartement is in a similar state quite regularly 😅
Another alternative to modern bras if the band is an issue for you is long lined bras! They’re also good to use if you need a strapless bra because they don’t tend to ride down like normal strapless bras
I *looooove* that bridesmaid’s dress *SO MUCH*
love this video!! finding a way to modernize the 18th century silhouette without looking like Im in costume has been on my sewing to-do for so long and you answered all my questions for me!
It's not a simple question, and a lot depends on body type and lifestyle :) Which of the four methods do you lean towards?
Mariah Pattie I think the boned bodice was a good balance of a lot of different characteristics, but your short stays were unique, and something I’ve always wondered about doing, but hadn’t seen anyone else actually Making!
Nice!
My dog started squeaking her toy right before you asked "do you hear that bird".
did you freak out a tiny bit?
I loved watching this! Unfortunately, I am still scared and confused. In my mind, I am not ready to draft my own patterns. I am still very much a beginner sewer. I will have to save this for future references. Thank you for sharing!
Drew Samuels That’s a great idea! I was wondering how to do mock-ups cheap.
I really hope you can post a tutorial on the next version of the sports bra stays, I'd be really interested to see the process!
Hi I'm a new subscriber i really enjoyed this video so many great ideas and good for bounding for me who is new to sewing xx
Regarding the shoulder straps on your short stays. I would use some elastic to mimic the adjustability of the original ties.
Yes, girlfriend, yesss. My floor looks exactly the same as I'm trying so hard to make the perfect stays for 'the girls' and tender back. Currently in mockup #?? I decided on the straight back earlier realizing what you said.
this is so cool! and oh i love that skirt! and im SO not a skirts kinda gal!
must try all the thingss
So I took your Capsule and over the last weeks designed my own. I found that lace on sleeves were a great thing for diversity, because I could wear one bodice in warmer and colder weather, so two of my four bodices will permanentely have sleeves on them and the other two will share a pair. Also I plan to make two laced tops so the stomacher has more of a multi-purpose use. I want to make one of the four planned skirts long, so it suits colder weather. Right now I'm working on the stays with the simplicity 8162 pattern, so let's see how that goes. Again thanks for the abesolutely wonderful video!
*week
Yes, or even sleeves that are finished separately and whip-stitched on, Regency style. I know I wouldn't bother to stitch on lace just if I felt like wearing it, but a once-yearly sleeve transition I think sounds fairly realistic.
10/10 will be referring to this in the future. I have a pattern, and I'm totally willing to play and butcher it for SCIENCE.
I'd wear the grey bra by itself because it' s really cute. The pink dress is really pretty too.
I'm really interested in your bra/stays endeavour because bras in my size are so expensive I am really tempted to make some myself but I need to find a pattern that provide lot's of support (because I have literally not back muscle)
as an idea for your sports bra stays: make the bust panel removable? you could put in little snaps
❤️
16:37 HOW AWESOME!! Do you have a video on how to digitize patterns??
I totally want a video on just the sports bra stays! Those are amazing!
Coming eventually
❤❤❤🤗🤗🤗something very new
Bless you you're doing the lord's work 😭 Signed, a very curvy, very broke costume lover
You just came up on my algorithms while I was trying to find modernized 18th century clothing and I've been exploring all your old videos. Not sure if you still check comments on old videos, but regarding the gathering "modesty panel" on the sports bra stays: there are modern modesty panels for bras that has a short narrow strap on either side of a triangular piece of fabric, and the strap goes around your bra strap and buttons onto the top corners of the triangle. I wonder if that could help you achieve the various necklines of shifts shown in portraits and plates without needed to make various shifts and adding more versatility to a capsule wardrobe
My stays are half boned and only have three layers with a lining. :) they are so comfortable.
I would love to hear some thoughts like this, but about skirt supports! I really love how 18th century skirts extend out from the waist as well as having volume at the hem. I have been thinking about organdy and possibly cording? I like petticoats, but I feel like for modern purposes, it should all be attached if possible.
Maybe consider something like a bumroll or similar padded piece to wear underneath - both Bernadette Banner and Cathy Hay have made them to wear with their Victorian/Edwardian skirts in daily life
8:30, I know what you mean with the high humidity. I prefer wearing my shift and stays here in northern VA over a bra.
I love the pink dress but I'm not sure if a zip would be strong enough with the boning to support my F cup size. The shot stays reminds me of the 1790s jumps in the jill salen corset book.
I loved this. What did you use at the end for your computer digitized patterns. That was amazing.