@@montana2strokeracer Geeze,unusuall for me to get so busy. i usually watch for the bell icon . looking forward to the timing show, the ways its done you know the (Black Magic), of it all is something that the newbies need to understand. probably the most important thing to a good running engine of any type 2 or 4 stroke. if possible could you demonstrate on another engine with flywheel attached through the little window cut out method for those who cant or dont want to pull the flywheel off. thanks Frank
Any suggestions on how to repair a a bad oil line check valve? i have one for crank getting air pumped back from the engine. thankfully i found a NOS thats been perfect but the line are more and more rare by the day. id really like to have a plan figured out incase it happens again tho! i still have the original line i can experiment with.
The only thing I know is to purge the line back and forth to exercise the check ball and to possibly dislodge some particles that are preventing its operation. You can do it with mineral spirits and a hand bulb pump that you will have to adapt to fit the banjo fitting with a small piece of hose. But if this doesn't work, you are just going to have to find another used or new one.
Where, eventually, does all the oil go to, that goes to the main bearing, from the oil pump? What is its exit route? Is the oil that lubricates the main bearing eventually burned, or vented via the exhaust? I am not sure I understand the circuit of the oil from the oil pump to the main bearing...then what happens to the oil. Does it build up over time, or is it drained from the engine periodically?
Hi Dale, When I watched this the first time I thought maybe you had the piston in backwards. On my Yamahas the holes in the piston skirt face the carb. I went back and looked up the parts list for the TC125 and it looks like that should be the same. If you haven't already found it, you might want to check.
Hi Jack, this engine is a piston port induction, no reed valve, no holes in the piston, just orient the piston with the arrow on top toward the exhaust port. Its installed as it should be. Think your use to working on reed valve engines, the old original AT1 CT1's, 69-71 were piston port also, just like this Suzuki. Yamaha went to reeds in 72, Suzuki in 75. Thanks for trying to keep me out of trouble, I do have to go back and correct things sometimes. Thanks again brother.
You're right Dale, everyone I've worked on is a reed valve except the YDS3 and while I've replaced the heads in them I haven't done a complete rebuild. You're so thorough I thought there must be something I didn't know. And now I do.
Can I ask what your opinion of ring compressors is? I'm going to be assembling my DT400 (76) and planned on using a ring compressor but it seems few use them. Is there a reason why they're not used much?
My opinion is don't use them, most of the time you can't get them off once the cylinder is on the piston. Unless there is a new design that I don't know about. You can but it takes a lot of time, or you have to bend them to remove. Pistons are really pretty easy to install in the cylinder using your fingers and sometimes a plastic tool to push the ring down. For two strokes anyway.
Thank you! Yea I was wondering if it may apply more to a four stroke. They do have shallow ring compressors now that use a different method and I might try it but thank you very much for your input.
Never seen one go bad, if it does it just does, just like in your car, if the oil pump stops its not going to be pretty. Its just rare, I just wouldnt loose sleep over it.
Welcome back Dale, did Colorado receive alot of snow? Any way the Suzuki is coming together nicely. How long does it usually take to complete a restoration providing everything else goes to plan?
Thanks Larry, we have had quite a bit, but the chinook winds have come in and melted all on the ground where Im at, but this only happens on the east side of the Rockies. So the west has probably still got snow. Yes the old TC is coming together, down to electrical and paint. I have been running a little over a year on most barring problems getting parts. Thanks for following along.
Hi, your post is really valuable. I'm in the process of rebuilding my Suzuki RV90. In fact, it's already done, but as you know, it's an old machine, and it smokes a bit. The CCI oil pump is working fine, but I'm considering switching to a premixed fuel. It’s true that Stihl recommends a 50:1 ratio, but I’m sure that’s only meant for their high-quality equipment. I might go for a 40:1 mix for the RV90 engine. That said, I’m still reluctant to give up the CCI oil pump because it has a lot of advantages. I’m kind of torn. I wanted to ask your opinion-if I use Stihl’s modern, high-grade oil with the Suzuki CCI oil injection system, what difference do you think it would make? Or, if I were to technically reduce the output of the CCI oil pump a little-by slightly lowering the CCI’s set level-and combine that with high-quality modern oil, what do you think that would do for reducing smoke without damaging the engine? Thanks!
Hi there and thank you. I would not recommend changing to premix. On Suzuki's the LH crank bearing is lubed directly by the oil injector, if you change to premix you will be taking a good bit of the oil away from that bearing. Some folks do it and get by, but I would not recommend it. I did an entire video on this subject. If you do go premix, I would not use chainsaw oil. Try an air-cooled motorcycle injector oil and mix a 32:1. Yamalube 2S is what I use in most of my premix and injector bikes.
Nicely honed bore, she'll be a crisp runner I think Dale. Always good to visit you in the workshop.
Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.
Thanks for the visit Dean, yes I think it will be a nice runner
nice job dale nearly there
Thanks Mark, getting closer for sure, lots of electrical gremlins to deal with now.
after watching this i dont wanna suzuki too many veriables with the cci
okay, late but here,carry on.
Thank goodness, was about ready to send out the troops.
@@montana2strokeracer Geeze,unusuall for me to get so busy. i usually watch for the bell icon . looking forward to the timing show, the ways its done you know the (Black Magic), of it all is something that the newbies need to understand. probably the most important thing to a good running engine of any type 2 or 4 stroke. if possible could you demonstrate on another engine with flywheel attached through the little window cut out method for those who cant or dont want to pull the flywheel off. thanks Frank
I meant to say Montana 😎
Yep Montana
Any suggestions on how to repair a a bad oil line check valve? i have one for crank getting air pumped back from the engine. thankfully i found a NOS thats been perfect but the line are more and more rare by the day. id really like to have a plan figured out incase it happens again tho! i still have the original line i can experiment with.
The only thing I know is to purge the line back and forth to exercise the check ball and to possibly dislodge some particles that are preventing its operation. You can do it with mineral spirits and a hand bulb pump that you will have to adapt to fit the banjo fitting with a small piece of hose. But if this doesn't work, you are just going to have to find another used or new one.
Where, eventually, does all the oil go to, that goes to the main bearing, from the oil pump? What is its exit route? Is the oil that lubricates the main bearing eventually burned, or vented via the exhaust? I am not sure I understand the circuit of the oil from the oil pump to the main bearing...then what happens to the oil. Does it build up over time, or is it drained from the engine periodically?
All the oil that is injected into the engine, be it at the manifold or the main bearing, is ultimately burned and exhausted through the pipe.
Hi Dale, When I watched this the first time I thought maybe you had the piston in backwards. On my Yamahas the holes in the piston skirt face the carb. I went back and looked up the parts list for the TC125 and it looks like that should be the same. If you haven't already found it, you might want to check.
Hi Jack, this engine is a piston port induction, no reed valve, no holes in the piston, just orient the piston with the arrow on top toward the exhaust port. Its installed as it should be. Think your use to working on reed valve engines, the old original AT1 CT1's, 69-71 were piston port also, just like this Suzuki. Yamaha went to reeds in 72, Suzuki in 75. Thanks for trying to keep me out of trouble, I do have to go back and correct things sometimes. Thanks again brother.
You're right Dale, everyone I've worked on is a reed valve except the YDS3 and while I've replaced the heads in them I haven't done a complete rebuild. You're so thorough I thought there must be something I didn't know. And now I do.
Can I ask what your opinion of ring compressors is? I'm going to be assembling my DT400 (76) and planned on using a ring compressor but it seems few use them. Is there a reason why they're not used much?
My opinion is don't use them, most of the time you can't get them off once the cylinder is on the piston. Unless there is a new design that I don't know about. You can but it takes a lot of time, or you have to bend them to remove. Pistons are really pretty easy to install in the cylinder using your fingers and sometimes a plastic tool to push the ring down. For two strokes anyway.
Thank you! Yea I was wondering if it may apply more to a four stroke. They do have shallow ring compressors now that use a different method and I might try it but thank you very much for your input.
You know the pumps are scary to me. What if it stops and you don’t know it. This KE 175 is my first with them. My IT 250 you had to mix.
Never seen one go bad, if it does it just does, just like in your car, if the oil pump stops its not going to be pretty. Its just rare, I just wouldnt loose sleep over it.
Welcome back Dale, did Colorado receive alot of snow? Any way the Suzuki is coming together nicely. How long does it usually take to complete a restoration providing everything else goes to plan?
Thanks Larry, we have had quite a bit, but the chinook winds have come in and melted all on the ground where Im at, but this only happens on the east side of the Rockies. So the west has probably still got snow. Yes the old TC is coming together, down to electrical and paint. I have been running a little over a year on most barring problems getting parts. Thanks for following along.
Hey brother
Hey Cain, how did you beat Frank to the first comment?
Hi, your post is really valuable. I'm in the process of rebuilding my Suzuki RV90. In fact, it's already done, but as you know, it's an old machine, and it smokes a bit. The CCI oil pump is working fine, but I'm considering switching to a premixed fuel. It’s true that Stihl recommends a 50:1 ratio, but I’m sure that’s only meant for their high-quality equipment. I might go for a 40:1 mix for the RV90 engine.
That said, I’m still reluctant to give up the CCI oil pump because it has a lot of advantages. I’m kind of torn. I wanted to ask your opinion-if I use Stihl’s modern, high-grade oil with the Suzuki CCI oil injection system, what difference do you think it would make?
Or, if I were to technically reduce the output of the CCI oil pump a little-by slightly lowering the CCI’s set level-and combine that with high-quality modern oil, what do you think that would do for reducing smoke without damaging the engine? Thanks!
Hi there and thank you. I would not recommend changing to premix. On Suzuki's the LH crank bearing is lubed directly by the oil injector, if you change to premix you will be taking a good bit of the oil away from that bearing. Some folks do it and get by, but I would not recommend it. I did an entire video on this subject. If you do go premix, I would not use chainsaw oil. Try an air-cooled motorcycle injector oil and mix a 32:1. Yamalube 2S is what I use in most of my premix and injector bikes.