Great video Rich. The skit was hilarious, and spot on at the start of it. The more I dabble with TPU the more I like it as a material. Catch you on the next one! 🍻
Biggest issue I have seen running TPU in the Plus4 is it being too sticky in the reverse Bowden. If you instead run the roll above the printer and into a small Teflon tube pigtail straight into the top of the extruder, it can eliminate that problem. I haven't printed a ton of TPU on my Plus4, but I was able to get 85A to print great with minimal work.
I enjoy your out look on this, making for real use not toys, or planters but things that fix some thing. That is what I like to do, find a problem and fix it or design a better way to work with some thing I have, make a part not buy one. Great show I have past your channel on to others.
Great video, I don’t have a lot of experience printing TPU but my best results came from a dedicated nozzle and purge filament. This is definitely a lathe must have.
Saw your Q&A video a couple days ago. Another channel I think you would really enjoy is Inheritance Machining. You two have the same kind of sense of humor and he just got a Bamboo printer.
Amazing that prototyping and production can now be done at home. I have printed many things for my RV, mainly from PLA, but there are some places where TPU would work great. As always, excellent result. Oh, and I never print many of the same thing trying to get it just right. *Looks over at office trash can full of 'failed' prints*
You are definitely getting better. Its all about being able to expose common issues we all have by throwing in a bit of humour. (without any stupid, 3 second, Hollywood movie clips) I'm just about to do some tpu myself so wish me luck.
If PM wanted to squgee the ways they would have used rubber or vinyl. Felt wipers are made to hold oil like a wick. Ways are ground, not flaked, so they arent going to _stay_ oiled.
Yeah, this should be the thinking process. Is it intentional or just dumb/not optimal/cheap ? Fixing things which don't need to be fixed is quite common for diy-ers and makers.
A couple tips for TPU: Avoid crossing perimeters(especially if you don't print it from a dryer.), and point the overhang towards the part cooling fan, if it's not symmetric. I've printed significantly larger tpu part about a dozen times, trying to keep a mild overhang from wrinkling. The alternative was flipping it over and using supports, which was even worse.
You’ll definitely want a 2 piece part with an angled mating surface between them to squeeze the wiper into the way. Also to get sharper corners, cut a small v or c shape into all sharp corners with a radius that of the nozzle or so
I would still place a cover over both lathes working areas. This will provide more protection to the ways, the biggest is accidental drops of work material.
I needed to make a similar part but did not have a 3D printer. I used a cheap silicone spatula from the dollar store and cut it to shape. Punching the holes took a while to get in the wanted location, but otherwise it worked great and cost me a couple bucks. Problem was repeating that hand-crafted part three more times. A 3D printed part wins on repeatability. Design it right once and every subsequent part is the same.
My solution for the way seals would have been a slightly oversize (TPU/PC/nylon/whatever). Shaped like yours, but a couple mm larger inside relief measurement. This would act as a clamping plate to clamp a piece of inner tube, cut to the precise shape of the way, to act as a real rubber seal.
Do you feel there is any drawback to fully cleaning the oil off the ways that are not covered by the carriage with the TPU, versus the felt which helped to spread a thin layer of oil?
I thought you were gonna make new covers for the felt, way wipes. I’m not sure if I want 3d printed wiper. I think the felt works much better. It will hold oil so it can be applied to the way as a carriage move back-and-forth. Look forward to your next video.
I would have overcomplicted this with 4 layers of protection, an outer shield, a primary wiper, a secondary wiper, and a reverse wiper or bit of felt to keep the oil in.
Hi, nice work. Are you thinking about wiping the parts of the ways used by tail stock as well? I'd need to do it good on 1st attempt, my TPU-capable printer is 100 miles from my lathe... What I did (not my original idea) was installing piece of sheet metal onto the carriage (in moving support holes) that catches most of tch chips/debris so they don't even get to the ways. And for "daily operations", it's not blocking anything.
Due to the decreasin "meat" in the reversed "v" geometry, I'd give a try to an angle a little more acute than 90˚, just to keep a constant pressure all the way down to the ends of the wiper
I don't have a lathe so I can't look at it in person but the back way wiper looks perpendicular to the way. Would it be better to angle it toward the back to clear debris off the way rather than pushing it down the way?
Which CAD package do you use? I ask because it is one thing to use a hobby license but I’d like to start selling my work but buying a professional solidworks license will set me back £8000 Functional prints are the best. You channel rocks
I don't own any Bambu printers but I do have the QIDI Plus4. I suspect the pressure advance issue is created by the very long melt zone of the Plus4. The high flow aspects of this extruder might be it's downfall for details like those in your TPU design. I'm curious if you tried the adaptive pressure advance option in Orca Slicer? Just my 2 cents. Keep bringing great content. I am a little disappointed that you didn't make a bigger deal over Bambu's discission to lock down their devices that are based on open source software.😏
Which modeling program is that? I've been using MatterControl which is easy enough, very similar to TinkerCAD, but I would like to have more functionality. Unfortunately I just can't get AutoCAD to click for me.
I just got done with a project that took me 42 tries to get right. If I changed one part it threw off another part. It was maddening until I had the thought of cutting the part in half to see where the engagement was happening and oh wow only 2 more tries for perfection. Moral of the story… step away and look at the problem as a whole. Sometimes you can get locked in looking at only one part instead of the whole picture.
Please do so we can chip in to help support the channel. I'm stating the obvious here, probably, but $5/month from multiple viewers can really add up. Most people throw away $5/month on a cup of coffee or something.
I guess we’ll see. I connect with winscp to pull timelapse vids presently right to my editing rig. If they break that i guess no more timelapses with their logo for free advertising. Their choice, not mine :)
Piling on, great vid. A little honest struggle sometimes is honest. Also, appreciate your restraint on NOT pushing a “Bambu Outrage!” Video. We know the issues and have our own thoughts… skipping the additional foot stomping just for clicks shows a certain level of maturity that goes a long way with your audience. Grabbed a set of thread sizers, thanks! Keep up the great work!
I would agree if we were talking about rubber sheet cut like the felt is, but modern injection molded synthetic like on my 14x40 from the factory or tightly-modeled TPU that tightly squeegees the surface as you roll along I believe to be a better choice. Debris is more likely to stick to felt. Lubrication, I suppose if it was debris-free, but the primary source of lubrication is from the oilers above, and what is held in surface tension by the grooves under the carriage. Preventing scratching makes no sense if you're dragging tiny abrasive debris back and forth due to it being stuck in all the nooks and crannies of the porous felt surface. Heat resistant, sure, but I'm also not piling up smokin hot chips in a big enough pile to glass transition TPU on a machine this size. On a larger machine if I'm turning or boring giant piles of chips I'm probably running coolant anyway. In-short, I think that advice, while once true, is now dated when compared to modern methods of making them from syn. rubber/TPU. EDIT: Can we agree pretty much anything was better than the felt ones that were on THIS lathe? :)
This video was awesome. Comedy section in the middle was great.
thx!
MAN. Every friday, something new that I need. You and I have all of the same hobbies.
Great video Rich. The skit was hilarious, and spot on at the start of it.
The more I dabble with TPU the more I like it as a material.
Catch you on the next one! 🍻
I don't have or use a lathe, but I love watching your process no matter what you make. Thank you.
Cooler!! Only missed the baseball to hit against the wall.
“Great” movie
Biggest issue I have seen running TPU in the Plus4 is it being too sticky in the reverse Bowden. If you instead run the roll above the printer and into a small Teflon tube pigtail straight into the top of the extruder, it can eliminate that problem. I haven't printed a ton of TPU on my Plus4, but I was able to get 85A to print great with minimal work.
I enjoy your out look on this, making for real use not toys, or planters but things that fix some thing. That is what I like to do, find a problem and fix it or design a better way to work with some thing I have, make a part not buy one. Great show I have past your channel on to others.
Great video, I don’t have a lot of experience printing TPU but my best results came from a dedicated nozzle and purge filament. This is definitely a lathe must have.
I have that same lathe but for about 3yrs now…and yours looks SO clean 😂.
Will definitely be making some of these 👍🏻
lol, doesn't hurt that it's only a few weeks old :)
This is such a great video. Great video style, both informative and comedic at points.
thx
Saw your Q&A video a couple days ago. Another channel I think you would really enjoy is Inheritance Machining. You two have the same kind of sense of humor and he just got a Bamboo printer.
Amazing that prototyping and production can now be done at home. I have printed many things for my RV, mainly from PLA, but there are some places where TPU would work great. As always, excellent result.
Oh, and I never print many of the same thing trying to get it just right. *Looks over at office trash can full of 'failed' prints*
Wow, what dedication to the result... Long, but good video.
thx
That's a great idea! My lathe will converse with my printer on this👍
Nice video. It's pretty amazing the things that can be done with a 3D printer
Really good project. Got to do more TPU printing.
You are definitely getting better. Its all about being able to expose common issues we all have by throwing in a bit of humour. (without any stupid, 3 second, Hollywood movie clips) I'm just about to do some tpu myself so wish me luck.
Good luck!
If PM wanted to squgee the ways they would have used rubber or vinyl.
Felt wipers are made to hold oil like a wick.
Ways are ground, not flaked, so they arent going to _stay_ oiled.
Yeah, this should be the thinking process. Is it intentional or just dumb/not optimal/cheap ?
Fixing things which don't need to be fixed is quite common for diy-ers and makers.
Very nice. Interesting learning on the TPU artifacts. One suggestion could be to angle the front faces so that debris is forced to the sides.
A couple tips for TPU: Avoid crossing perimeters(especially if you don't print it from a dryer.), and point the overhang towards the part cooling fan, if it's not symmetric.
I've printed significantly larger tpu part about a dozen times, trying to keep a mild overhang from wrinkling. The alternative was flipping it over and using supports, which was even worse.
You’ll definitely want a 2 piece part with an angled mating surface between them to squeeze the wiper into the way.
Also to get sharper corners, cut a small v or c shape into all sharp corners with a radius that of the nozzle or so
Great work!
I would still place a cover over both lathes working areas. This will provide more protection to the ways, the biggest is accidental drops of work material.
Great video ,as always
I needed to make a similar part but did not have a 3D printer. I used a cheap silicone spatula from the dollar store and cut it to shape. Punching the holes took a while to get in the wanted location, but otherwise it worked great and cost me a couple bucks. Problem was repeating that hand-crafted part three more times. A 3D printed part wins on repeatability. Design it right once and every subsequent part is the same.
the gosting is input shaping / speed
My solution for the way seals would have been a slightly oversize (TPU/PC/nylon/whatever). Shaped like yours, but a couple mm larger inside relief measurement. This would act as a clamping plate to clamp a piece of inner tube, cut to the precise shape of the way, to act as a real rubber seal.
Interesting idea!
Do you feel there is any drawback to fully cleaning the oil off the ways that are not covered by the carriage with the TPU, versus the felt which helped to spread a thin layer of oil?
I thought you were gonna make new covers for the felt, way wipes. I’m not sure if I want 3d printed wiper. I think the felt works much better. It will hold oil so it can be applied to the way as a carriage move back-and-forth. Look forward to your next video.
One could always add the TPU wiper over the metal/felt wiper using longer screws and get the best of both worlds.
@ that is exactly what I would do. Good minds think alike.
I would have overcomplicted this with 4 layers of protection, an outer shield, a primary wiper, a secondary wiper, and a reverse wiper or bit of felt to keep the oil in.
I like the felt on the inside idea. . .
"I would have overcomplicted this..." < This is The Way. 😉
I'm wondering if the manufacturer will just take your stls and improve their product!
Hi, nice work. Are you thinking about wiping the parts of the ways used by tail stock as well? I'd need to do it good on 1st attempt, my TPU-capable printer is 100 miles from my lathe...
What I did (not my original idea) was installing piece of sheet metal onto the carriage (in moving support holes) that catches most of tch chips/debris so they don't even get to the ways. And for "daily operations", it's not blocking anything.
Due to the decreasin "meat" in the reversed "v" geometry, I'd give a try to an angle a little more acute than 90˚, just to keep a constant pressure all the way down to the ends of the wiper
Great video fellow Pennylvainer, are you using freecad, or is that solid works...
Sketchup make
@@FunctionalPrintFriday i just went to your site and saw that...thank you....I am a fusion guy...its getting pricey tho..
Not sure how well this would work, but you could potentialy have made the angle slightly tighter than 45 degrees to have some "preload".
Are you taking wall thickness (.20/.16) into account? In that your dimensions are a multiple so your outer walls are a full sized not a fraction?
I think the slicer is doing thin perimeters inside the outer wall, but not 100% sure
I don't have a lathe so I can't look at it in person but the back way wiper looks perpendicular to the way. Would it be better to angle it toward the back to clear debris off the way rather than pushing it down the way?
Thats a good idea
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I've been told my whole life I'm full of it, I assume that's good ideas...
Which CAD package do you use?
I ask because it is one thing to use a hobby license but I’d like to start selling my work but buying a professional solidworks license will set me back £8000
Functional prints are the best. You channel rocks
Maybe shape them so the original metal plates can be used. That should stabilise them nicely
cool!!!
I don't own any Bambu printers but I do have the QIDI Plus4. I suspect the pressure advance issue is created by the very long melt zone of the Plus4. The high flow aspects of this extruder might be it's downfall for details like those in your TPU design. I'm curious if you tried the adaptive pressure advance option in Orca Slicer? Just my 2 cents. Keep bringing great content. I am a little disappointed that you didn't make a bigger deal over Bambu's discission to lock down their devices that are based on open source software.😏
Which modeling program is that? I've been using MatterControl which is easy enough, very similar to TinkerCAD, but I would like to have more functionality. Unfortunately I just can't get AutoCAD to click for me.
I think your wipers would benefit from a small piece of sheet metal so the screws can spread the pressure on the wipers.
I just got done with a project that took me 42 tries to get right. If I changed one part it threw off another part. It was maddening until I had the thought of cutting the part in half to see where the engagement was happening and oh wow only 2 more tries for perfection. Moral of the story… step away and look at the problem as a whole. Sometimes you can get locked in looking at only one part instead of the whole picture.
lololol I couldn't stop laughing...27 times!
You’re supposed to add new felt as it wears away
So, will you be avoiding the Bambu update? Inquiring minds want to know 😂
Do you have a Patreon account? I looked for you on there but don't see you
Im considering making one, thx for asking
Please do so we can chip in to help support the channel. I'm stating the obvious here, probably, but $5/month from multiple viewers can really add up. Most people throw away $5/month on a cup of coffee or something.
👍😎👍
Would be nice to reach out to the lathe mfg and offer them the wipers.
Just for shits and giggles, i'd like to see the MK3S+ print that part in TPU to see if it can do any better.
Print that part, and then bring it to fit manually maybe? By cutting away excess (that was intentionally printed) or melting the contact area in form?
Just because bambu lab is being dumb right now doesn't mean you can't use it. Their future printers will be the problem
I guess we’ll see. I connect with winscp to pull timelapse vids presently right to my editing rig. If they break that i guess no more timelapses with their logo for free advertising. Their choice, not mine :)
Piling on, great vid. A little honest struggle sometimes is honest. Also, appreciate your restraint on NOT pushing a “Bambu Outrage!” Video. We know the issues and have our own thoughts… skipping the additional foot stomping just for clicks shows a certain level of maturity that goes a long way with your audience. Grabbed a set of thread sizers, thanks! Keep up the great work!
The four reasons why felt is used and NOT rubber/TPU:
1-Removing debrie
2-Lubrication
3-Preventing scratching
4-Heat resistant
I would agree if we were talking about rubber sheet cut like the felt is, but modern injection molded synthetic like on my 14x40 from the factory or tightly-modeled TPU that tightly squeegees the surface as you roll along I believe to be a better choice. Debris is more likely to stick to felt. Lubrication, I suppose if it was debris-free, but the primary source of lubrication is from the oilers above, and what is held in surface tension by the grooves under the carriage. Preventing scratching makes no sense if you're dragging tiny abrasive debris back and forth due to it being stuck in all the nooks and crannies of the porous felt surface. Heat resistant, sure, but I'm also not piling up smokin hot chips in a big enough pile to glass transition TPU on a machine this size. On a larger machine if I'm turning or boring giant piles of chips I'm probably running coolant anyway. In-short, I think that advice, while once true, is now dated when compared to modern methods of making them from syn. rubber/TPU. EDIT: Can we agree pretty much anything was better than the felt ones that were on THIS lathe? :)
Have a look at Stefan Gotteswinter he uses leather or similar as an apron across the whole ways. I think he uses magnets to secure the covers.