a syringe with a blunt tip needle does wonders for precision application of adhesives and lubricants. literally used it today for some wood glue on a gift im making for my mom
As the seal has mostly just gravity working against it, you could've implemented a very simple version of a labyrinth seal. A little wall on top of the gear - the tpu cap would than wrap around / go over that. If you didn't want to print another gear just to incorporate the additional feature, with pla, you could just as easily glue stuff on. Don't get me wrong, the tight fight with the grease works probably fine (and adding grease is a good idea either way, provided it plays nice with the materials involved). But this is kind of a general principle in protecting stuff against damage from water ingress: Explore how to prevent water from "wanting" to go there in the first place (geometrically discourage the water, if you will) before trying to create a "hermetic" seal.
👍👍😎👍👍 TPU for the win AGAIN. TPU has definitely become my favored practical filament for so many applications. And it was your channel that presented it in a way that turned the lightbulb on for me and removed the fear in trying to print with it. I’ve had nothing but flawless prints. Of course that’s because I never try and print without using dried filament that’s also being printed from an active drier. Thank you 🙏
It's easy to understate how well dish soap and warm water works to clean the plate. Haven't used IPA in almost a year since trying dish soap and water.
I know this was more about TPU but I was amazed that a PLA gear held up so well. Used in the cold, pressing against a metal gear and it is in great shape still.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Exactly. I bought a plus4 for the ability to use the advanced filaments but have printed very little that wasn't PLA or PETG. Nice to have the option but not often needed. Good to see a real world example of what PLA can do. I only found your channel in the last couple months, really enjoy it. Even went back and watched your original video on the gear. thanks
I suspect the superlube is entirely superfluous. It shouldn't hurt the cause either, but I think just having the physical blockage of a well fitting plug is doing all the work. The lube is probably better used just covering the metal directly, as that would also protect against humidity with the plug then used more to keep the lube in place and clean rather than as a moisture barrier. Personally I would have just made a cork/rubber stopper conical geometry and called it a day lol, but your model is a lot cleaner and lower profile.
My thoughts were a slightly domed part that pops in but larger in diameter, all the way to the teeth and wrap down or past the teeth and just be a circle. That way water can be shed away and you wouldn’t have to rely on the grease to make the seal. Your part was great though. Shouldn’t have any issues.
Great TPU tip! I will have to try it out on my smooth pei sheet. Glue stick works, but the surface finish isn’t as good. You can also adjust the z offset so the first layer is less squished, which also makes it easier to get off.
This is an amazing idea I'm stealing for my Deere blower. The belt idlers are little cups and once the snow melts it goes right into the bearings and I'm replacing them every fall as the bearings rust up over the summer. Awesome! Also don't print TPU directly on PEI. Use a glue stick! I use the Elmer's purple stick and TPU peels off easily
Another great video with lots of learnings. I’ve been lucky with TPU on my PEI plate, but it’s always been a crap shoot that I’ll damage the plate. Knowing that the IPA I bought has a better use is great. And, yeah, I only use it as a quick wipe and fall back to Dawn at the kitchen sink downstairs when that fails.
Nice trick with the IPA for releasing TPU. I'm about to do a few prints involving TPU and bought some bambu liquid glue to use as a release agent. I'll compare both methods and see which works better for my situation. Looking forward to seeing how the high temp drying goes. I currently use a food dehydrator that can hit 73c but later on I plan to get into the more technical materials. Thanks for posting! edit: I love superlube. I use the one you used to lube the Z screws on my bambu A1 printers and their synthetic oil to lube the linear rails.
Love the video.... dang I could have used that IPA trick the past couple of weeks. I printed 16 different TPU replacement lids for some pyrex bowls and the largest ones are probably 250mm in diameter and a bear to get off!!!
I just store my PETG and such in a waterproof plastic storage tote with a built in gasket. I add a 700g or so silica gel pack like for a gun safe. Generally keeps the humidity in the box around 10%, or maybe that's just as low as my gauge goes. Works like a charm. once humidity starts rising, 12-15% i recharge the silica gel. Usually a couple months or so. I have a X1c with an AMS. printed extra silica gel holders for it as well, so everything stays sealed up. I do have a small sunlu single roll dryer, typically it only gets used on new rolls before being put in the storage bin.
Great video, I am always learning something new at your channel, keep up the fantastic job producing great videos! I have great success with my Polymaker think they are called V2 driers, bought a bunch of extra storage boxes for them. Handy system and works well, I find they are very convenient. It is latest model they were offering a couple months back, light blue cover on them. . I have debated doing a large food dehydrator, but I find with my small print farm the Polymaker units are working out very well.
Since you made the "grease grove" around the plug - the obvious answer is to use an O-ring. Also maybe (re)design the gear with a slight groove in the interior bore to align with the O-ring to kind of lock it in place. Just to let you know - I have that exact make/model of toaster/convection oven for filament drying (Nuwave Bravo XL Model 20856). It works *perfectly* for that purpose. High temp PPS-CF at 120C (240F) for.... up to 24 hours (if you'd want to for some reason) or more mundane filaments at 50C-70C for whatever amount of time you want. You have to do the C to F conversion yourself; I haven't found a way to make the oven display in metric units - maybe there is a way? But manual conversion is to easy anyway, so no big deal. It also is perfectly functional for annealing printed parts as well for better and more homogeneous strength. When I went looking for a convection oven filament dryer, the trick was finding something "modern" with digital controls, but would also allow selecting temps and times consistent with filament drying. Reading the manual made it seem like it would do that, but didn't come out and expressly say it. I figured it was worth a gamble so I got one to experiment with and find out. Turns out it works a perfect treat for filament drying!
To add to the laser marking experiments... for those unmarkables, you can use laser toner (black or various colors) and melt/bond that to the substrate.
Similar but different, I had designed and printed caps in TPU for my wife’s Bronco. Crash protection bars in front wheel wells are open ended steel tubes…prime for collecting salted road spray. Probably just a feel-good effort…but I feel good.
Nice vid! I too bought a little oven, its temperature ranges from dehydrating all the way up to pizza and it will let me set a timer for up to 6hrs. The chef in me refuses to put plastic in the food oven.
If you really want something dry, use a vacuum oven. Just use a diaphragm pump NOT a rotaty pump. The water will kill a RP quickly. Also, a trick is to turn the diaphragm pump on it's side so the water can just drip out the exhaust. You will also have to vent periodically to wipe the condensation off the inside of the door. And vacuum ovens are great for drying desiccant.
I have a vacuum pump and heated chamber up in my barn somewhere that I picked up on FB mktplace, but it only hits maybe 200F. Drawing a vacuum though, that's probably enough. If the air fryer doesn't work, I'll give it a try
@FunctionalPrintFriday water boils at ~200f (at sea level). In a vacuum that decreases drastically. I wonder why they say you need to dry at higher than boiling temperatures. Also, check what plastic the spool is made out of, because that can melt and make the filament unusable.
I currently have a TPU carb bowl gasket on my mini bike. It's held up for over 2 years now and recently re-used the gasket when i pulled the carb apart and it's still holding gas with no leaks. I've also got a TPU intake gasket on that same motor that also experiences gas in the air stream and the higher heat load coming from the aluminum head. TPU has proven to be very chemically resistant with everything i've tried so far. I'd be interested to see how it holds up against gear/motor/transmission/pag oils and multiple kinds of coolants.
I've been using that exact air fryer for about 6 months now. It has worked great for me on drying those higher degree filaments. Temps seem to be pretty accurate. I ended up setting a preset for 100c at 10 hours (or whatever the polymaker recommended setting is for drying PA). It also works great for annealing it afterwards. From what I researched, even if you dont get that exact model, most air fryers with a dehydrate function will allow a low enough temp to dry any filament, and allow for long duration cycles.
I just heat the bed up to 80° and wait a minute or 2. The TPU always peels off relatively easily at that point. No scraping needed. I also don't use IPA to clean the bed. Methanol works just as well, if not better, and is WAY cheaper.
@FunctionalPrintFriday Gallon jugs at my local hardware store for $13. They have it in the paint thinner section. Might be called methyl hydrate on the label
You could put a layer of PLA or ABS or whatever first then print the TPU on top of that and maybe you can laser on that material instead?? Just a thought
Bambu’s new Wood PLA they’re saying to dry it right out of the vacuum pack due to the wood pulp absorbing water. So yeah I’m now the crazy person that dries PLA
My TPU has been out in humidity for years and prints fine, i wonder if some of the TPU moisture issue is how far the moisture has gone into the filament. I will say when i first got it it was bubbly when printed.
The fume extractor runs full time if the laser is on, so there is a TON of air constantly moving through the enclosure. The laser base itself draws air in at the front where the inlet is and exhausts it from the rear. I was initially worried about creating a low pressure area in the front near the intake, but when I reach around the back, it's blowing warm air out, so I think it's good
The worst part of a lot of these companies that make filament driers to me is that I feel like they do very little engineering or research into their design. For like 5 years there, not one filament drier had a built in exhaust... then whats the point? Now a lot of these new ones never understand that the dispersion of heat should not be localized as it will cause 100s of issues. Obviously.... yet all of them draw hot air in with a fan and never spread the flow or make plastic heatsinks. So you end up with your rolls fusing or the entire machine melting at points. That oven will probably be crap because it has 0 air-flow. You need airflow or vacuum because the water vaporizes and fills the air.
Just an idle question. Since you are printing the gear, could you just design in a simple weep hole that goes from the inside to the underside away from the motor mount? You'd still have some moisture but I think it would dry out faster. What you have here is better because its blocking the water getting into the cavity in the first place, so this is just a what if ...
Could you use an O Ring instead of the grease? When I originally saw the groove I thought that's what you were going to use. Or would the grease weather better in your climate?
I guess I'm lucky, I just got my x1c and put in my furnace room, 10% RH. Just leave nylon out in the open. Now, once spring arrives and I'm not using the furnace or the AC...
Carbon fiber is abrasive and would wear the steel chute gear, and that's an expensive part to replace. PLA is rigid and will wear sacrificially as the drive gear. I'm quite surprised how little wear is on it after 4 years of use.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I don't always use Bambu filaments in my AMS but you can add the color and filament in device page , the slicer tells you how much filament it will use .
@@digdast I understand, same here, but I'm saying it reads the rotation on the rollers to determine the amount remaining. If the roll isn't in the AMS, the rollers won't be moving. This is separate from the RFID coil. What I'm not sure about is if this would cause an error state or not.
Why not just make the gear a bit higher (so that the top sticks out over the rest of the parts) and then just make a cover over that top of the gear, covering the entire top face and wrapping around the part sticking out so that water would have to go upwards to get in.
Bambu calls out 100°C to 140°C (212F to 284F) for 8 to 12 hours for PPS-CF. I haven't tried it yet, but everything else I've seen says drying it is required. Have you tried printing it without drying? Was it right out of the bag or after being stored?
@FunctionalPrintFriday yes, PPS-CF is different than PPA-CF. I printed almost a full spool without drying. Bambu spec if for PPA-CF. They're very different. One is a nylon base, the other is sulfide, that makes it basically non hygroscopic, unless you expose it to a humid environment. Think abs. PPA-CF is very hygroscopic. I tried it straight out of shrink wrap out of an active dry box, and it was horrible. Dried it overnight at 100c, and printed fine, but there is no way to store it, not even in the sunlu box where it won't absorb moisture. So I won't be buying PPA-CF again. PPS-CF is great. But it requires minimum about 320c to print. So most printers are a no go. My custom trident can hit 350, so I use that and works a treat.
@@kazolar I can't paste the link here, but just search "bambu pps-cf drying" on google. The drying specs they list are specifically for the PPS-CF (not PPA). I appreciate the real-world experience though. I look forward to giving it a try in my Plus 4 which will hit the nozzle temp needed. What thermal grease are you using at your hotend?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Bambu PPS-CF is not the same formulation as others, and I would not buy theirs even if I could, and I love my X1, just don't think they've gotten the PPA/PPS filaments right. Since the key difference between PPA and PPS is moisture sensitivity. I'm using Polymaker's and I suspect you're not using Bambu version either, since you actually can't buy theirs unless you have the X1E printer. I'm using the boron nitride stuff that you get from slice, as I use the cold end on several machines. You can use generic thermal grease since the cold end should never see temps above whatever your chamber is set to.
Drying something at 120 deg C for 8 hours is going to use a fair bit of electricity. Not sure an air fryer is ideal as they are sealed which is just going to trap the moisture inside the oven. Plus the temp is just not that accurate - an oven usually just turn on the element until it hits the set temp then switches it off - the result is normally some overshoot and then a bit of leeway before the element turns itself back on again. There's a few videos on YT where makers try to use toaster ovens as a solder reflow oven but they usually redesign the control circuit to use a feedback loop to make it more accurate as melting solder requires a very specific curve. Your use also seems to use the same technology. ua-cam.com/video/asZ1zhef8Ss/v-deo.html
I have a tecpel datalogger with probe. I plan on giving it the full test to see what the cycles look like and graphing it out. It's a toss-up with the air recirc. I have a food dehydrator too I used in the past and it did a great job for lower temp filaments but was crazy expensive to run because it recirc'd none of the air. I'm hoping the air fryer may be a good compromise while still offering the needed temp range, similar to the design of the S4, that also recirc's -most- of the air, but still seems to do a great job
a syringe with a blunt tip needle does wonders for precision application of adhesives and lubricants. literally used it today for some wood glue on a gift im making for my mom
Thx, my method of application was embarrassingly flawed :)
Dude, this needs a spoiler warning. What if your mum is watching
thanks for the pointer. I just got a pack of curved tip blunt syringes for PTFE lube. Should work for alcohol for this too.
As the seal has mostly just gravity working against it, you could've implemented a very simple version of a labyrinth seal. A little wall on top of the gear - the tpu cap would than wrap around / go over that. If you didn't want to print another gear just to incorporate the additional feature, with pla, you could just as easily glue stuff on.
Don't get me wrong, the tight fight with the grease works probably fine (and adding grease is a good idea either way, provided it plays nice with the materials involved). But this is kind of a general principle in protecting stuff against damage from water ingress: Explore how to prevent water from "wanting" to go there in the first place (geometrically discourage the water, if you will) before trying to create a "hermetic" seal.
Today I learned what a labyrinth seal is.
Thanks to you I am using my Bambu X1C more for practical useful purposes instead silly novelties. Keep up the good work.
👍👍😎👍👍 TPU for the win AGAIN. TPU has definitely become my favored practical filament for so many applications. And it was your channel that presented it in a way that turned the lightbulb on for me and removed the fear in trying to print with it. I’ve had nothing but flawless prints. Of course that’s because I never try and print without using dried filament that’s also being printed from an active drier. Thank you 🙏
It's easy to understate how well dish soap and warm water works to clean the plate. Haven't used IPA in almost a year since trying dish soap and water.
Totally agree!
I know this was more about TPU but I was amazed that a PLA gear held up so well. Used in the cold, pressing against a metal gear and it is in great shape still.
PLA is a lot tougher than people give it credit for. It's viewed as beginner filament, but it's often -still- the best choice for many applications
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Exactly. I bought a plus4 for the ability to use the advanced filaments but have printed very little that wasn't PLA or PETG. Nice to have the option but not often needed. Good to see a real world example of what PLA can do. I only found your channel in the last couple months, really enjoy it. Even went back and watched your original video on the gear. thanks
@@Taliesen. welcome aboard and thx for watching!
The slow blade penetrates the shield
I suspect the superlube is entirely superfluous. It shouldn't hurt the cause either, but I think just having the physical blockage of a well fitting plug is doing all the work. The lube is probably better used just covering the metal directly, as that would also protect against humidity with the plug then used more to keep the lube in place and clean rather than as a moisture barrier. Personally I would have just made a cork/rubber stopper conical geometry and called it a day lol, but your model is a lot cleaner and lower profile.
My thoughts were a slightly domed part that pops in but larger in diameter, all the way to the teeth and wrap down or past the teeth and just be a circle. That way water can be shed away and you wouldn’t have to rely on the grease to make the seal. Your part was great though. Shouldn’t have any issues.
Great TPU tip! I will have to try it out on my smooth pei sheet. Glue stick works, but the surface finish isn’t as good. You can also adjust the z offset so the first layer is less squished, which also makes it easier to get off.
This is an amazing idea I'm stealing for my Deere blower. The belt idlers are little cups and once the snow melts it goes right into the bearings and I'm replacing them every fall as the bearings rust up over the summer. Awesome!
Also don't print TPU directly on PEI. Use a glue stick! I use the Elmer's purple stick and TPU peels off easily
Another great video with lots of learnings. I’ve been lucky with TPU on my PEI plate, but it’s always been a crap shoot that I’ll damage the plate. Knowing that the IPA I bought has a better use is great. And, yeah, I only use it as a quick wipe and fall back to Dawn at the kitchen sink downstairs when that fails.
The same IPA trick also works perfectly with hot glue on any reasonably smooth surface :)
Nice trick with the IPA for releasing TPU.
I'm about to do a few prints involving TPU and bought some bambu liquid glue to use as a release agent. I'll compare both methods and see which works better for my situation.
Looking forward to seeing how the high temp drying goes. I currently use a food dehydrator that can hit 73c but later on I plan to get into the more technical materials. Thanks for posting!
edit: I love superlube. I use the one you used to lube the Z screws on my bambu A1 printers and their synthetic oil to lube the linear rails.
Love the video.... dang I could have used that IPA trick the past couple of weeks. I printed 16 different TPU replacement lids for some pyrex bowls and the largest ones are probably 250mm in diameter and a bear to get off!!!
Making a great project just a little more perfect!
I just store my PETG and such in a waterproof plastic storage tote with a built in gasket. I add a 700g or so silica gel pack like for a gun safe. Generally keeps the humidity in the box around 10%, or maybe that's just as low as my gauge goes. Works like a charm. once humidity starts rising, 12-15% i recharge the silica gel. Usually a couple months or so. I have a X1c with an AMS. printed extra silica gel holders for it as well, so everything stays sealed up. I do have a small sunlu single roll dryer, typically it only gets used on new rolls before being put in the storage bin.
Great video, I am always learning something new at your channel, keep up the fantastic job producing great videos! I have great success with my Polymaker think they are called V2 driers, bought a bunch of extra storage boxes for them. Handy system and works well, I find they are very convenient. It is latest model they were offering a couple months back, light blue cover on them. . I have debated doing a large food dehydrator, but I find with my small print farm the Polymaker units are working out very well.
Since you made the "grease grove" around the plug - the obvious answer is to use an O-ring.
Also maybe (re)design the gear with a slight groove in the interior bore to align with the O-ring to kind of lock it in place.
Just to let you know - I have that exact make/model of toaster/convection oven for filament drying (Nuwave Bravo XL Model 20856). It works *perfectly* for that purpose. High temp PPS-CF at 120C (240F) for.... up to 24 hours (if you'd want to for some reason) or more mundane filaments at 50C-70C for whatever amount of time you want. You have to do the C to F conversion yourself; I haven't found a way to make the oven display in metric units - maybe there is a way? But manual conversion is to easy anyway, so no big deal. It also is perfectly functional for annealing printed parts as well for better and more homogeneous strength.
When I went looking for a convection oven filament dryer, the trick was finding something "modern" with digital controls, but would also allow selecting temps and times consistent with filament drying. Reading the manual made it seem like it would do that, but didn't come out and expressly say it. I figured it was worth a gamble so I got one to experiment with and find out. Turns out it works a perfect treat for filament drying!
To add to the laser marking experiments... for those unmarkables, you can use laser toner (black or various colors) and melt/bond that to the substrate.
Similar but different, I had designed and printed caps in TPU for my wife’s Bronco. Crash protection bars in front wheel wells are open ended steel tubes…prime for collecting salted road spray. Probably just a feel-good effort…but I feel good.
I remember watching the gear snowblower video... been a minute! Kinda what made me follow you
Thanks for hanging around so long! Hopefully I continue to keep you interested.
I backed the Sunlu S4 on kickstarter. Paid for it. Never got it. Contacted them and got the run around. Oh well, lesson learned. I am envious.
Nice vid! I too bought a little oven, its temperature ranges from dehydrating all the way up to pizza and it will let me set a timer for up to 6hrs. The chef in me refuses to put plastic in the food oven.
If you really want something dry, use a vacuum oven. Just use a diaphragm pump NOT a rotaty pump. The water will kill a RP quickly. Also, a trick is to turn the diaphragm pump on it's side so the water can just drip out the exhaust. You will also have to vent periodically to wipe the condensation off the inside of the door. And vacuum ovens are great for drying desiccant.
I have a vacuum pump and heated chamber up in my barn somewhere that I picked up on FB mktplace, but it only hits maybe 200F. Drawing a vacuum though, that's probably enough. If the air fryer doesn't work, I'll give it a try
@FunctionalPrintFriday water boils at ~200f (at sea level). In a vacuum that decreases drastically. I wonder why they say you need to dry at higher than boiling temperatures. Also, check what plastic the spool is made out of, because that can melt and make the filament unusable.
Great video, thank you!
I currently have a TPU carb bowl gasket on my mini bike. It's held up for over 2 years now and recently re-used the gasket when i pulled the carb apart and it's still holding gas with no leaks. I've also got a TPU intake gasket on that same motor that also experiences gas in the air stream and the higher heat load coming from the aluminum head. TPU has proven to be very chemically resistant with everything i've tried so far. I'd be interested to see how it holds up against gear/motor/transmission/pag oils and multiple kinds of coolants.
I've been using that exact air fryer for about 6 months now. It has worked great for me on drying those higher degree filaments. Temps seem to be pretty accurate.
I ended up setting a preset for 100c at 10 hours (or whatever the polymaker recommended setting is for drying PA). It also works great for annealing it afterwards.
From what I researched, even if you dont get that exact model, most air fryers with a dehydrate function will allow a low enough temp to dry any filament, and allow for long duration cycles.
Next revision will be a fully covered custom gear shaped version since the drive gear is taller than the driven gear.
yep, this would also be a good solution
A link to that second dryer would have been useful, becent video this week for sure without a ton of random reprints to fill time
I'll be testing it soon. Don't want a bunch of people picking one up if their garbage.
I just increase the nozzle height by 0.5 mm when printing TPU. Printed 5++ kg of it, all on a textured PEI without any issues.
I just heat the bed up to 80° and wait a minute or 2. The TPU always peels off relatively easily at that point. No scraping needed. I also don't use IPA to clean the bed. Methanol works just as well, if not better, and is WAY cheaper.
where are you getting methanol?
@FunctionalPrintFriday Gallon jugs at my local hardware store for $13. They have it in the paint thinner section. Might be called methyl hydrate on the label
You could put a layer of PLA or ABS or whatever first then print the TPU on top of that and maybe you can laser on that material instead?? Just a thought
I just put the sheet into the freezer for a few minutes to get TPU parts to release.
It's free and effective
You could have placed a rubber washer into the recess instead of the grease that should stop the ingress of water
December...no snow yet. i wish.
It’s snowing right now. All i had to do was say it hadn’t snowed yet :)
Bambu’s new Wood PLA they’re saying to dry it right out of the vacuum pack due to the wood pulp absorbing water. So yeah I’m now the crazy person that dries PLA
My TPU has been out in humidity for years and prints fine, i wonder if some of the TPU moisture issue is how far the moisture has gone into the filament. I will say when i first got it it was bubbly when printed.
Awesome video! any chance you could share your tpu settings for the plus 4?
Thx! I'm using the generic TPU settings
I'd be curious how well a PLA/PETG cap with a groove cut for something like an o-ring would work for keeping moisture out (less messy at least!).
should put a fan in the laser enclosure
The fume extractor runs full time if the laser is on, so there is a TON of air constantly moving through the enclosure. The laser base itself draws air in at the front where the inlet is and exhausts it from the rear. I was initially worried about creating a low pressure area in the front near the intake, but when I reach around the back, it's blowing warm air out, so I think it's good
The worst part of a lot of these companies that make filament driers to me is that I feel like they do very little engineering or research into their design. For like 5 years there, not one filament drier had a built in exhaust... then whats the point? Now a lot of these new ones never understand that the dispersion of heat should not be localized as it will cause 100s of issues. Obviously.... yet all of them draw hot air in with a fan and never spread the flow or make plastic heatsinks. So you end up with your rolls fusing or the entire machine melting at points. That oven will probably be crap because it has 0 air-flow. You need airflow or vacuum because the water vaporizes and fills the air.
Just an idle question. Since you are printing the gear, could you just design in a simple weep hole that goes from the inside to the underside away from the motor mount? You'd still have some moisture but I think it would dry out faster. What you have here is better because its blocking the water getting into the cavity in the first place, so this is just a what if ...
Could you use an O Ring instead of the grease? When I originally saw the groove I thought that's what you were going to use. Or would the grease weather better in your climate?
I considered it, but was worried it still wouldn't seal against the layer lines
I guess I'm lucky, I just got my x1c and put in my furnace room, 10% RH. Just leave nylon out in the open. Now, once spring arrives and I'm not using the furnace or the AC...
wow! 10% is crazy low
@FunctionalPrintFriday It's really close to the furnace. Rest of the house is like 20%.
Our nostrils suffer for my print quality.
❤
PLA for the gear? I would have gone with carbon fiber nylon or maybe carbon fiber ASA because of the moisture or at the very least carbon fiber PETG.
Carbon fiber is abrasive and would wear the steel chute gear, and that's an expensive part to replace. PLA is rigid and will wear sacrificially as the drive gear. I'm quite surprised how little wear is on it after 4 years of use.
Nylon without fibers would probably be the "best" choice but would be a bear to print without warping.
Have you tried putting those PTFE tubes directly from the dryer to an AMS with the cover off?
I have not. . interesting Frankenstein idea though. The AMS reads the rollers to determine how much filament is on the spool so it -may- error out.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I don't always use Bambu filaments in my AMS but you can add the color and filament in device page , the slicer tells you how much filament it will use .
@@digdast I understand, same here, but I'm saying it reads the rotation on the rollers to determine the amount remaining. If the roll isn't in the AMS, the rollers won't be moving. This is separate from the RFID coil. What I'm not sure about is if this would cause an error state or not.
Personally I would have done a threaded plug with an O-ring boss in it to ensure a water tight seal and not have to deal with grease.
If I re-design the gear bore to be threaded in the future, this would indeed be a better solution, thx
Should work.
its a neet trick with ipa
I just spritz a bit of windex and the parts come right off.
I know you probably went over this during the enclosure build, but what is the name of your laser engraver? I’m interested in getting one myself
it's linked in the description
1st, apparently.. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome!
Laser the PEI sheet with the logo and print on it
but then all my prints would have a logo in that spot, no?
Why not just make the gear a bit higher (so that the top sticks out over the rest of the parts) and then just make a cover over that top of the gear, covering the entire top face and wrapping around the part sticking out so that water would have to go upwards to get in.
lol “yet”
PPA-CF needs to be dried. PPS-CF is much less hygroscopic. Drying temp is 80-100c, 100c is 212f. 120c or about 250f is max.
Bambu calls out 100°C to 140°C (212F to 284F) for 8 to 12 hours for PPS-CF. I haven't tried it yet, but everything else I've seen says drying it is required. Have you tried printing it without drying? Was it right out of the bag or after being stored?
@FunctionalPrintFriday yes, PPS-CF is different than PPA-CF. I printed almost a full spool without drying. Bambu spec if for PPA-CF. They're very different. One is a nylon base, the other is sulfide, that makes it basically non hygroscopic, unless you expose it to a humid environment. Think abs. PPA-CF is very hygroscopic. I tried it straight out of shrink wrap out of an active dry box, and it was horrible. Dried it overnight at 100c, and printed fine, but there is no way to store it, not even in the sunlu box where it won't absorb moisture. So I won't be buying PPA-CF again. PPS-CF is great. But it requires minimum about 320c to print. So most printers are a no go. My custom trident can hit 350, so I use that and works a treat.
@@kazolar I can't paste the link here, but just search "bambu pps-cf drying" on google. The drying specs they list are specifically for the PPS-CF (not PPA). I appreciate the real-world experience though. I look forward to giving it a try in my Plus 4 which will hit the nozzle temp needed. What thermal grease are you using at your hotend?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Bambu PPS-CF is not the same formulation as others, and I would not buy theirs even if I could, and I love my X1, just don't think they've gotten the PPA/PPS filaments right. Since the key difference between PPA and PPS is moisture sensitivity. I'm using Polymaker's and I suspect you're not using Bambu version either, since you actually can't buy theirs unless you have the X1E printer. I'm using the boron nitride stuff that you get from slice, as I use the cold end on several machines. You can use generic thermal grease since the cold end should never see temps above whatever your chamber is set to.
Couldn’t you just use an o-ring in the groove instead of all that grease?
worried it wouldn't seal against the layer lines
Drying something at 120 deg C for 8 hours is going to use a fair bit of electricity. Not sure an air fryer is ideal as they are sealed which is just going to trap the moisture inside the oven. Plus the temp is just not that accurate - an oven usually just turn on the element until it hits the set temp then switches it off - the result is normally some overshoot and then a bit of leeway before the element turns itself back on again. There's a few videos on YT where makers try to use toaster ovens as a solder reflow oven but they usually redesign the control circuit to use a feedback loop to make it more accurate as melting solder requires a very specific curve. Your use also seems to use the same technology. ua-cam.com/video/asZ1zhef8Ss/v-deo.html
I have a tecpel datalogger with probe. I plan on giving it the full test to see what the cycles look like and graphing it out. It's a toss-up with the air recirc. I have a food dehydrator too I used in the past and it did a great job for lower temp filaments but was crazy expensive to run because it recirc'd none of the air. I'm hoping the air fryer may be a good compromise while still offering the needed temp range, similar to the design of the S4, that also recirc's -most- of the air, but still seems to do a great job
There's not really a point to using 99.9% IPA because it will quickly absorb ambient moisture
Wow - another great video. By the way, I'm over 75 and I'm putting myself up for adoption - interested?
LOL, glad to have you aboard on the channel, but I checked with Mrs. FPF, and I'm not allowed to adopt anyone :)