1968 Ford F250. It's 56 years old and the paint has seen better days. Let's remove the oxidation with comet, sos pads, dawn and polish with linseed oil.
Right on Tim! I love the old classic trucks too. I bought my first 1972 F250 about 6 years ago. I have videos on my channel if you dig around a bit. Got it running, did the brakes, new exhaust, tires and all that good stuff. I had to sell it and I've been wanting another one real bad. This one is going toe awesome!
Oh that's cool! These old trucks are timeless! I'm pulling the engine next week if all goes well. Rebuilt engine is almost ready to install. Stay tuned!
@@CTmoog Are you still working on the 914? I really hope you get that car up and running. I have a 74 2.0 and there are fewer and fewer on the road. Keep up the good work!
The 65 beetle is almost complete. Over 50 videos on UA-cam. I'm editing the complete start to finish video and it should be ready in a few weeks. What do you think about this truck? =) Pretty cool right?
It's unbelievable how manj rusty spots you find, as soon as you start searching and scratching around.. It's true the say: "Who's searchin' will find it.." Hehe, another project for another day... Looks nice though, not much damage, but you surely have to repair the roof soon, before it will become an aquarium.. 😏 Keep on, you have a lot of work. Cheers!
grew up with 69 f250 2wd split rims 360/c6 2V carb manual choke no power steering drum brakes were terrible 50yards before intersection had to start pumping brake pedal -30*f days steering was stiff scary making turns when you cant slow down stock am radio but i bought a fm receiver from radio shack truck had no rust because 70's-80's hwy departments never salted icy roads put down 100% sand people had tire chains back then
Looking good CT...great find! Will make for a nice daily driver and shop truck. Would definitely recommend sound deadening the cab roof and floors once you get the floor patched up, before you go back with a headliner and vinyl or carpet on the floor
Thanks man! Yes, that's a goo idea! once I get everything sealed up. I should probably drive it through a rainy Florida summer first to find all the leaks! =)
When the dash pads are destroyed in these trucks I just removed and cleaned up the metal painted dash under the dash pad, but the dash pad looks good in this truck just need some interior treatment on it so clean it up and bring some of the coloring back.
@@richardbates2367 Another cheap fix is to remove what's left of the original covering and replace it with a new vinyl/cloth blend from a fabric store. You can use a heat gun to carefully stretch and pull the new material over the contours of the original pad. Some folks just use cloth too... but it doesn't like to stretch. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
CT saw some nice VWs and 914s at the Mecum auction in Kissimmee. Bar under the seat is the jack handle extension for the bottle jack which would have been under the hood.
-- Correct. The factory bottle jack should be clamped down to the top of the inner fender inside the engine compartment. What I always thought to be a bit odd was that Ford chose to store the handle under the seat but the jack under the hood? Weird. As small as the jack is, I would think that they would have also installed it under or behind the bench seat. For the uninitiated, IIRC the factory jack isn't a hydraulic jack, it's a mechanical jack. You actually raise and lower the jack mainshaft by using the handle to turn the internal gears. The jack isn't exactly optimal but they do work. The reason the handle is as long as it is, is so that you can actuate the jack without having to crawl under the truck. Yes, it's convenient and I've actually had to use one a couple times decades ago when I was much younger than I am now. However, my best advice regarding an onboard jack is to buy a decent modern hydraulic unit and carry that in the truck instead. Why? I don't put a lot of faith in the factory jack even if I've never heard of anyone experiencing a failure with them. IMHO, they also tend to be unstable due to the small base. Anyway, make up your own mind with your onboard survival gear in your rig. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I would try some cutting compound before you apply any oil to it cut it and wax it good luck stick with this one until you finish it get it back on the road were it belongs would love to see it finished
I wouldn’t put another gas tank in the cab behind the seat DUH, there is room underneath to safely install a tank, did you fill the cylinders with WD40 or marvel??
Yes, good idea. Yes, I put all kinds of stuff in there...It's really bad. They left the plugs out for 20 plus years and it's looks like it had a major overheating issue considering the radiator and the fan was removed....it's seized bad. That's ok, we have a fresh rebuilt engine ready to install.
@@CTmoog For cylinder soaking, use a 50/50 mix of detergent ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and Acetone. WD-40 is for absolute shite, it always has been. I wouldn't ever waste my money on it again if given options. There are far better penetrants as well as far better lubricants. Speaking of those two things... use either one based on what you need to get done. There's a difference between them which seems to elude far too many folks out there in the world! As for WD-40, yes, WD-40 is usually better than nothing if that's all you have and cannot easily acquire a better product but there are superior products on the market. Do yourself a favor and go with something else. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
So the switch on the dash switches the gas gauge from one tank to the other. The valve on the floor beside the seat actually switches which tank it pulls gas from
I enjoy your videos, especially when you're fixing vehicles. However on this one I used the fast fwd feature quite a bit. Watching a car wash for the better part of an hour isn't so interesting.... Just a friendly critique 😉
Looks to have a huge potential. Yes, there's some rust, but honestly, if it was still running you would probably be driving and using it. All the parts are there :-)
Great! I love old trucks. One of the things I've always wanted though is a late '60s Chevy, Ford, or Dodge van. You know, the ones with the coffee table inbetween the front seats engine compartment... for on the fly engine maintenance ;-) Manual 3 speed on the column would be ideal. Best wishes on your endeavour. :-)@@CTmoog
I hope you know a good welder/fabricator to help patch the holes. No need to replace them. Holes in the roof might have been from lights. I would take the bed off and clean the frame and tank. Either sand blast or laser it.
Hey Will, Good idea on removing the bed. I got pretty good at welding on my 1965 vw beetle build. Check it out if you have time. It's in the playlist. 50 plus videos. I will have a complete build video out in a couple months on that one. Stay tuned for the engine swamp. Thank you!
At approximately 33:10... note the snaps attached to the back wall of the cab. Those are the bottom half of the snap buttons that would be attached to the boot which forms a seal between the opening in the back of the camper and the cab of the truck. The opening is what you get when you open the sliders in the rear window. Just an FYI. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Yes, I have finished a couple and I have a few in the works. You would know that if you watch my videos. Stick around this one will be back on the road in a few weeks! =) Just finished the engine build today! =) Stay tuned!
The Swamp Dragon got put on hold for a few reasons....I plan on putting it back together this year. What do you think about this one? I might name it Dragon's Blood!
@@CTmoog There were factory installed A/C units from Ford but from my memory and in my experience, yours is definitely an aftermarket unit. Personally, I would keep the unit and get it up and running again - you live in Florida! It'll also add value to the truck if the A/C is functional. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Just put you down a 1/8 inch sheet of diamond plate aluminum, or steel plate and wont have to worry about pinholes and small rust holes in the bed floor.
@@CTmoog If you plan on regularly using the bed... do NOT use aluminum. You'll ding and deform the hell out of it in no time. Stick with steel diamondplate if you choose to go that way. While I've never used aluminum myself, I know of plenty of others that did. Excepting the guys that never used their truck as a truck, all regretted going aluminum. It just doesn't hold up. IMHO, using plywood or tongue & groove planks for a bed is vastly superior to aluminum because both will last far longer. It's your truck so you can do as you wish but allow me to urge you to seriously think it over before spending time, energy and money on bed floor repair or upgrades. Peace & good vibes! - Max Giganteum
The guy that ended up with the 82 Chevy k20 Silverado i said in the comments on the other video that was also pink said they scotch brited the truck scuffed up the paint and buffed it out using a rubbing compound and using spray on clear coat and made it mostly red again.
That is definitely not a foolproof way to prevent an explosion... an inert gas such as Argon from a MIG welding setup is superior as long as the tank is filled to 100% capacity with the inert gas. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
En estados unidos usamos un producto que se llame Comet or tambien puedes usar una que se llama SOS. Pero en Latino America no se la nombre de productos
@@CTmoog The exterior trim will either be anodized aluminum or stainless steel. There's no need to use Evaporust - the rust will come right off either aluminum or stainless. Use a bit of rubbing compound on a rag to easily get any rust that has bled onto the trim off of it. Some of the interior trim such as that holding up the headliner will be a different story - it is not aluminum or stainless. Evaporust will be of use but you'll end up with bare steel that still partially has chrome attached to it. You can either get it re-chromed or do what a number of people do - carefully de-rust the pieces, use a self-etching primer and then spray them with the paint color of your choice. Most folks choose white to match the headliners. Speaking of those, they are available new but they're expensive for what they are. I recommend using the old one as a pattern and making a new one of your own using a very thin fiberboard. If you're careful, you can methodically spray a fiberboard with water to soften it up and it'll take the shape of the original. Once it's there, dry it fully then spray it with several coats of white. No, it won't be perforated like an original but who cares, most folks never look at the headliner anyway. You also should explore the option of covering the original with a cloth or fabric of some kind then glueing it on before spraying it with fresh paint. If you're artistic at all, they can come out looking top notch. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I subscribed to your channel to follow the restoration of the Porsche 914 and not your tinkering with other vehicles. Finish one project before you start another.
I think just fix it enough to get it road worthy, for the rust encapsulate it slow it down. Have some fun with it first 😊
That's the plan! Swapping the engine out next week if all goes well. Fingers crossed the C6 is still good.
When you bring home a new project you are living, everything else is just waiting
Thank man! I can't wait to get it running!
Being a huge truck fan myself. I'm glad to see the return of some classic truck content. As the old saying goes KEEP ON TRUCKIN'.
Right on Tim! I love the old classic trucks too. I bought my first 1972 F250 about 6 years ago. I have videos on my channel if you dig around a bit. Got it running, did the brakes, new exhaust, tires and all that good stuff. I had to sell it and I've been wanting another one real bad. This one is going toe awesome!
Hey CT, cool video, great to see it get cleaned up! I know you love this process.
Yes, it is really fun! This one tuned out pretty good so far. Thank you! =)
That truck is so cool! Honestly looks cool. Time for some parts!
Thanks Slade! Gotta love these old trucks! Engine swap this week if all goes well.
@@CTmoog absolutely they are so cool. And it’s easy to get parts for them surprisingly. I’m really excited for you, I don’t see these that often.
What happened to the VW and th Porche?????? I’d like to know.
I'll give a ship update in the next video.
Pretty sweet overall. You can bring this around - no problem!!
wow! I appropriate that! =)
Looks great! My 15 yo has expressed interest in the old 70's style trucks.
Oh that's cool! These old trucks are timeless! I'm pulling the engine next week if all goes well. Rebuilt engine is almost ready to install. Stay tuned!
@@CTmoog Are you still working on the 914? I really hope you get that car up and running. I have a 74 2.0 and there are fewer and fewer on the road. Keep up the good work!
@@waxingchandler3895 yes, the 914 is still in the works. I had to step away from it for a mixture and take it all in. It's a lot to process. =) 👍👍👍
@@CTmoog Thats great! Glad you are mixig it up. That is a cool truck. I enjoy watching the process of you working on these old cars.
@@waxingchandler3895 Thanks man that's what it's all about. Learning and having fun! =) 😎😎😎
Doing a great 👌 job
Thank you! =)
What a cool truck . Polish up nice with cool patina 👍
Thanks buddy!!! 👍
Good.job cool truck Ford good show 👍👍👏👏👏😄
Thanks buddy! 👍
Let’s finish just one project! Or get one that you can drive …… legally!
Hey Steve, I have the title for this one. It should be on the road in a few weeks if all goes well.
What happened to the swamp dragon
The Swamp Dragon will live again. This year if all goes well. What do you think about this one? I might call it Dragon's Blood! =)
Good start! Some of the pieces your needing you might try LMC and Rockauto.
Thanks man! Yes, they both have some good parts. Doing the engine swap first. Using the 360 I pulled out of the Swamp Dragon! =)
@@CTmoog Dennis Carpenter Reproductions out of the carolinas...
- Max Giganteum
How about the 65 beetle, rusty bus and ghia, and 914? 😢
The 65 beetle is almost complete. Over 50 videos on UA-cam. I'm editing the complete start to finish video and it should be ready in a few weeks. What do you think about this truck? =) Pretty cool right?
@@CTmooggreat! i watch you every week for years so I follow all your projects
It's unbelievable how manj rusty spots you find, as soon as you start searching and scratching around.. It's true the say: "Who's searchin' will find it.." Hehe, another project for another day... Looks nice though, not much damage, but you surely have to repair the roof soon, before it will become an aquarium.. 😏 Keep on, you have a lot of work. Cheers!
I need to stop looking so I stop finding it! =) Thanks my friend! Keep on trucking!
grew up with 69 f250 2wd split rims 360/c6 2V carb manual choke no power steering drum brakes were terrible 50yards before intersection had to start pumping brake pedal -30*f days steering was stiff scary making turns when you cant slow down stock am radio but i bought a fm receiver from radio shack truck had no rust because 70's-80's hwy departments never salted icy roads put down 100% sand people had tire chains back then
Very cool! Thanks for sharing that memory! These old trucks are awesome!
Looking good CT...great find! Will make for a nice daily driver and shop truck. Would definitely recommend sound deadening the cab roof and floors once you get the floor patched up, before you go back with a headliner and vinyl or carpet on the floor
Thanks man! Yes, that's a goo idea! once I get everything sealed up. I should probably drive it through a rainy Florida summer first to find all the leaks! =)
Hope to see it running soon
me too! =) rebuilt engine going in next week if all goes well. stay tuned!
When the dash pads are destroyed in these trucks I just removed and cleaned up the metal painted dash under the dash pad, but the dash pad looks good in this truck just need some interior treatment on it so clean it up and bring some of the coloring back.
@@richardbates2367 Another cheap fix is to remove what's left of the original covering and replace it with a new vinyl/cloth blend from a fabric store. You can use a heat gun to carefully stretch and pull the new material over the contours of the original pad. Some folks just use cloth too... but it doesn't like to stretch. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
CT saw some nice VWs and 914s at the Mecum auction in Kissimmee. Bar under the seat is the jack handle extension for the bottle jack which would have been under the hood.
Awesome man! I wanted to go to that. Maybe next year. Cool, I was wondering what that was for! =)
-- Correct. The factory bottle jack should be clamped down to the top of the inner fender inside the engine compartment. What I always thought to be a bit odd was that Ford chose to store the handle under the seat but the jack under the hood? Weird. As small as the jack is, I would think that they would have also installed it under or behind the bench seat. For the uninitiated, IIRC the factory jack isn't a hydraulic jack, it's a mechanical jack. You actually raise and lower the jack mainshaft by using the handle to turn the internal gears. The jack isn't exactly optimal but they do work. The reason the handle is as long as it is, is so that you can actuate the jack without having to crawl under the truck. Yes, it's convenient and I've actually had to use one a couple times decades ago when I was much younger than I am now. However, my best advice regarding an onboard jack is to buy a decent modern hydraulic unit and carry that in the truck instead. Why? I don't put a lot of faith in the factory jack even if I've never heard of anyone experiencing a failure with them. IMHO, they also tend to be unstable due to the small base. Anyway, make up your own mind with your onboard survival gear in your rig. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Looks like it’s time to hit up LMC Trucks for some new parts 😉
Hey Mike! Good idea! =)
Nice
Thank you! =) 😎
I would try some cutting compound before you apply any oil to it cut it and wax it good luck stick with this one until you finish it get it back on the road were it belongs would love to see it finished
that's a good idea. I will try that on the other side. Thanks man. That's the plan!
I wouldn’t put another gas tank in the cab behind the seat DUH, there is room underneath to safely install a tank, did you fill the cylinders with WD40 or marvel??
Yes, good idea. Yes, I put all kinds of stuff in there...It's really bad. They left the plugs out for 20 plus years and it's looks like it had a major overheating issue considering the radiator and the fan was removed....it's seized bad. That's ok, we have a fresh rebuilt engine ready to install.
@@CTmoog For cylinder soaking, use a 50/50 mix of detergent ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and Acetone. WD-40 is for absolute shite, it always has been. I wouldn't ever waste my money on it again if given options. There are far better penetrants as well as far better lubricants. Speaking of those two things... use either one based on what you need to get done. There's a difference between them which seems to elude far too many folks out there in the world! As for WD-40, yes, WD-40 is usually better than nothing if that's all you have and cannot easily acquire a better product but there are superior products on the market. Do yourself a favor and go with something else. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
So the switch on the dash switches the gas gauge from one tank to the other. The valve on the floor beside the seat actually switches which tank it pulls gas from
good to know! Thanks man!
@@CTmoog absolutely. Happy to help. I’ve had tons of those. My daughter learned to drive on a 68 camper special with a 4 speed
Steele Rubber products has all the rubber gaskets
Cool! I will check them out. Thank you! =)
I enjoy your videos, especially when you're fixing vehicles. However on this one I used the fast fwd feature quite a bit. Watching a car wash for the better part of an hour isn't so interesting.... Just a friendly critique 😉
Thanks man! Yes, I could have edited this one down a bit. I appreciate your feedback.
She's red. I had a blue one. Hell for stout.
They look good in pretty much any color! =) I love these old trucks!
I'm in That looking like fire engine Red. Here in NM we have Navajo tribe and they are using these styles truck.
Breakout the Ford 1968 F250 LMC catalog.
Yes, they have some cool stuff! =)
Looks to have a huge potential. Yes, there's some rust, but honestly, if it was still running you would probably be driving and using it. All the parts are there :-)
Yes man this truck is going to be awesome. Rebuilt engine going in next week if all goes well. Stay tuned! =)
Great! I love old trucks. One of the things I've always wanted though is a late '60s Chevy, Ford, or Dodge van. You know, the ones with the coffee table inbetween the front seats engine compartment... for on the fly engine maintenance ;-) Manual 3 speed on the column would be ideal. Best wishes on your endeavour. :-)@@CTmoog
@@teleosus1 Yes, I had a 1965 Dodge Van with a V8 in between the seats! =) It was awesome! Thanks buddy! 😎
I said it once and will say it again one thing your good at is washing pots n pans ....lmao
haha! There is something very satisfying about cleaning an old car or truck....=)
I hope you know a good welder/fabricator to help patch the holes. No need to replace them. Holes in the roof might have been from lights. I would take the bed off and clean the frame and tank. Either sand blast or laser it.
Hey Will, Good idea on removing the bed. I got pretty good at welding on my 1965 vw beetle build. Check it out if you have time. It's in the playlist. 50 plus videos. I will have a complete build video out in a couple months on that one. Stay tuned for the engine swamp. Thank you!
Finish.
back on the road in 30 days? Let's see what happens....I have to swap out the engine.
At approximately 33:10... note the snaps attached to the back wall of the cab. Those are the bottom half of the snap buttons that would be attached to the boot which forms a seal between the opening in the back of the camper and the cab of the truck. The opening is what you get when you open the sliders in the rear window. Just an FYI. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Do you ever finish any of these projects?
Yes, I have finished a couple and I have a few in the works. You would know that if you watch my videos. Stick around this one will be back on the road in a few weeks! =) Just finished the engine build today! =) Stay tuned!
What happened to the swamp dragon?
The Swamp Dragon got put on hold for a few reasons....I plan on putting it back together this year. What do you think about this one? I might name it Dragon's Blood!
@CTmoog I think it's pretty awesome I love these old fords
@@kadens6458 Awesome! This one should be back on the road soon. Engine swap, brakes, fuel system. Let's see what happens.
CT I looked at other camper specials and they didn't have the AC like that.
Ok so this must be an after market unit they installed at some point. Thanks for check ing! =)
@@CTmoog There were factory installed A/C units from Ford but from my memory and in my experience, yours is definitely an aftermarket unit. Personally, I would keep the unit and get it up and running again - you live in Florida! It'll also add value to the truck if the A/C is functional. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Dragons blood sounds like a great name for the truck
Yes buddy! =) You got it!
I like that especially since it will have the motor from the swamp dragon.
The truck looks different without the big mirrors
Just put you down a 1/8 inch sheet of diamond plate aluminum, or steel plate and wont have to worry about pinholes and small rust holes in the bed floor.
Good idea! =)
@@CTmoog If you plan on regularly using the bed... do NOT use aluminum. You'll ding and deform the hell out of it in no time. Stick with steel diamondplate if you choose to go that way. While I've never used aluminum myself, I know of plenty of others that did. Excepting the guys that never used their truck as a truck, all regretted going aluminum. It just doesn't hold up. IMHO, using plywood or tongue & groove planks for a bed is vastly superior to aluminum because both will last far longer. It's your truck so you can do as you wish but allow me to urge you to seriously think it over before spending time, energy and money on bed floor repair or upgrades. Peace & good vibes!
- Max Giganteum
Looking really good now , but were did my Barby Tuck go ? 😅
haha! Yes, no more pink! =)
The faiding you are seeing is the Clear Coat fading. A new paint job will remedy the faiding.
yes some fresh paint would be nice! =)
Visor holder is the same as 69/70 mustang. Get m from NPD
Thanks man! I will check them out.
The guy that ended up with the 82 Chevy k20 Silverado i said in the comments on the other video that was also pink said they scotch brited the truck scuffed up the paint and buffed it out using a rubbing compound and using spray on clear coat and made it mostly red again.
I would think that the Ford logo will be stamped in them.
It is on the tail gate
CT = Mr Miagy
wipe on wipe off! =)
You can weld a patch on the fuel tank just empty it connect the exhaust from a running engine to go through the tank and it is perfectly safe to weld.
That is definitely not a foolproof way to prevent an explosion... an inert gas such as Argon from a MIG welding setup is superior as long as the tank is filled to 100% capacity with the inert gas. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
CT quê produto em pó você usa para a limpeza ?
hello my friend! comet, sos pads and rinse with dawn.
En estados unidos usamos un producto que se llame Comet or tambien puedes usar una que se llama SOS. Pero en Latino America no se la nombre de productos
Hi Ct
if i were you get rid of all the rust. Take the truck down bare metal. And repaint it bright red.
Soak the trim in evaporust then polish m.
good idea!
@@CTmoog The exterior trim will either be anodized aluminum or stainless steel. There's no need to use Evaporust - the rust will come right off either aluminum or stainless. Use a bit of rubbing compound on a rag to easily get any rust that has bled onto the trim off of it. Some of the interior trim such as that holding up the headliner will be a different story - it is not aluminum or stainless. Evaporust will be of use but you'll end up with bare steel that still partially has chrome attached to it. You can either get it re-chromed or do what a number of people do - carefully de-rust the pieces, use a self-etching primer and then spray them with the paint color of your choice. Most folks choose white to match the headliners. Speaking of those, they are available new but they're expensive for what they are. I recommend using the old one as a pattern and making a new one of your own using a very thin fiberboard. If you're careful, you can methodically spray a fiberboard with water to soften it up and it'll take the shape of the original. Once it's there, dry it fully then spray it with several coats of white. No, it won't be perforated like an original but who cares, most folks never look at the headliner anyway. You also should explore the option of covering the original with a cloth or fabric of some kind then glueing it on before spraying it with fresh paint. If you're artistic at all, they can come out looking top notch. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
I mean on the wheels.
Well it's a little less crispy now LOL
haha! Yes, it's not too bad...just needs some TLC! =)
don't think I'm going to see it, because I haven't seen it finish any project or it doesn't publish them.
Hey Hector, this one is almost complete. Just need and engine, brakes and few other things! =) Stick around buddy!
It could be Rangoon red I had a 64 galaxie that was the color
interesting....I'll check the #s this week.
@@CTmoog It is Rangoon Red.
Didn't you use a sledge hammer on Rusty's engine ? Lmao
Keep all the original pieces to use as templates 😅 even though they look like garbage
Try kerosene and a scotch brite
🤦
I subscribed to your channel to follow the restoration of the Porsche 914 and not your tinkering with other vehicles. Finish one project before you start another.
Love the truck vids! But brother put some fricken pants on!😂😂😂😂