Well, Chris does keep putting out Clickspring Clips. His last video (on UA-cam at least) as I recall he would be putting out more videos as things progressed. It may be he has to sort out some issue with the Device or they may be other issues involved. AKA life and its assorted issues.
I hope the day you move to a Bridgeport, arrives soon. I had a table top mill for 20 years, and finally upgraded to an Enco, "bridgeport" style machine, a decade ago, and recently moved on to an actual Bridgeport. Each move was a major improvement. I would also recommend a misting coolant setup, it will substantially improve your "bottom line". I've seen these clamps for decades, I think I will make a set. Thanks!
It's always a pleasant surprise when i hear Quinn's voice after falling half asleep while watching one of AvEs not so interesting videos. Lol, she just said, "Sneek the reemer in there." That's a line i will use in the near future.
Actually this die holder and let the lathe runnig method is how we teach it over here in Germany: Relase the tailstock, press the die holder to your part with the free running tailstock, make sure the handle has a place to rest and start the lathe at a low rpm. Has always worked perfectly, but you will need a lathe powerful enough to do this.
I have to admit I've never been much of a fan of cutting threads (especially long ones) on the lathe with a die. But if necessary it is usually a good idea to at least cut a partial depth thread before going to the die. Long commercially available threaded rod and screws are normally produced by thread rolling machines which have the advantage of producing a stronger thread. On some threaded mass produced items the threads are cut using a Diehead that opens when either the work itself trips a stop or the machine trips a stop. The shop I worked in we would have to make up long threaded shafts for disassembling machinery components and a Landis Thread Chaser was the quickest way to do it. On Stafan's channel he uses a German version of Kant Twist clamps that feature a metric Acme (15° Trapezoidal Thread). While I agree that a Acme type of thread or even a Butress would have certain advantages a regular SAE, Whitworth or ISO thread form is more than strong enough to destroy an individual or a set of this type of clamp. The reason I know is because a Bozo "borrowed" mine once and returned them as Always Twisted Clamps. Sadly there were too many witnesses around. Nice work by the way. And no I do not need another set. I have plenty.
4:32 - it didn’t take me too long to figure out that you were making a bird’s nest... but you nevertheless succeeded in completely surprising and delighting me with that. I laughed out loud, one of those “oh that’s so fun!” kinds of laughs. Thank you! :)
Thanks to this video series, it motivated me to order the kit. I’m enjoying the build. With your step by step guidance, it’s more fun and less stressful
Very cool! I ordered a kit from D. Gray. Well, two kits, I also ordered his Toolmaker's clamp kit as well. New to all this and those two will be my first projects for when the lathe arrives.
Hi from Australia, love your video information and have just bought a kit from your guy in USA to send to me in Australia. Happy New Year to you and thanks for all you do on your site. Regards Merv
Doug sent me the revised measurements, now I know how that was discovered 😉. That's how I do those long threads too... as long as it's not 4140 🤣. Worked out great! Doug will be very happy. Thanks again! Cheers! 👍😁👍
Quinn thanks for another great video.a couple of years ago I had some side plates water cut for 4 each of 3 different sizes of these just copying some images from the web and, like you enjoyed the challenge and joys of getting parts to have that 'sexy' fit. One change I did, however, was to put a hex on the end of the lead-screw so that I could use a cordless drill to tighten and 'untighten' the clamp.
Thank you for the reminder, that I NEED, a set of thin parallels, and after the other day's, umm, booboo, I probably need a new set of regular parallels too, Doh!. Thanks Quinn, Scott, the destroyer of perfectly good milling parallels
Very well thought out, intelligent build. You did such a great job on the precision, you can call them "Can't Twist" clamps < rimshot > Thanks for sharing and I hope everyone enters something clever in your Patreon contest; even though I desire to win it! 😁
Quinn, Great video, when you were threading that shaft on the lathe Tap Magic is the thing to use its like it releases the friction and and makes the tap handle easier to turn , especially if you are concerned about the lathe not having the tourq at a slow RPM . Pete M
Super nice, so impressed always when you either make your own tools or fix a thing whilst upgrading it! I never would dare sticking stuff in between a lathe, I'll just take my sweet time. Forces, pressure, they are the only things I'm scared off.
Fantastic steady rest upgrades, Quinn: So much nicer than the original Chinese model. The clamps are fantastic, the new bronze bushings are sexy, but the dance-while-threading interlude was the best part of the video. :)
Might need a thrust washer after doing that bushing, over time the threaded rod will probably push the bushing out... A hardened washer might be a good upgrade too though.
These are sexy clamps. I have a few of these but will not buy anymore (and I do need more). I think we should be making them and patronizing a small producer that also makes great perogies.
Making a pair of these is definitely on my wish list one day. good to hear there are people producing kits for them. though I'm curious about how hard it would be to fabricate the plates. Great video as always!
Teasing woodworkers with nice consistent fits, I see. Well, consider me teased... and still subscribed because I need at least some of that fit in my life, and I can't afford even just a mini lathe
Very nice looking clamps, I think I might opt for stainless steel hardware just to give it a little shine factor. It seems like those black oxide cap screws like to rust after while...
For safety instead of using a board between your die handle and your ways. Take one of your empty tool holders and make a bar with a milled out pocket so it looks like a two prong fork. Make the fork part wide enough so it presses on the back part of the die handle body top and bottom but won’t interfere with your threaded stock that’s passing through the die. Make it long enough so it only uses the first three of your set screws on the holder. use the 4th set screw furthest away from your work to hold a piece of hex stock sticking out about an inch from the tool holder toward the direction of the chuck. That will act as a stop to keep your die handle from spinning. That way you can use that on your tool post. It will allow you to follow your die handle with your carriage to not only put pressure on it as you are threading your bar so it doesn’t wobble but it’s also safer than relying on a piece of wood.
Hi What about a ER collet chuck for mill hold any odd size shaft. My miller sufferers will day tight Drilling a major problem found a little ER chuck often helps. Steve
Nice Project, Quinn. I really love these "raindeer"-clamps (to me they look like raindeers, when You place them on the table, standing upright) and the idea to build them myself is tempting. However I can get good ones in size 100 (similar to Yours) from my supplier for around 20 US$ and if I saw it right, the kit is almost twice as expensive. The slightly smallersize 75, which I personally use even more often is just around 13 US$. As this is a tool rather than a model engine and I have not run out of waiting projects, I truely do not see the benefit of going for the kit. I'd even find it more tempting to build a pair myself from stock available in the shop than getting the kit.
Very cool, do you think the bottom of the v-groves should be removed with a slotting blade... or small endmill on the off chance you want to clamp something on its edge?
Hello Q. When forming the jaw V grooves is there a reason NOT to put a hole at the bottom of the groove? For clamping edged rather than round stock. It just seems like a good idea to have it available if needed. I am not a machinist, but enjoy watching your work, Abom79, KRucker, Engles, Windyhill etc.
Every time that bandsaw comes out i wonder if there is ever going to be a project to make a levered stand so it can be left doing long cuts without having to be Quinnhandled. =)
I never use that type of clamp and was just curious. Other than the accuracy of the clamping faces, I'm assuming that unlike a c-clamp the lead screw comes directly out at you being a major advantage.
Wouldn't flanged bushings have been better? and/or a hardened washer between the shoulder on the screw and the trunion piece. Looks like much of the clamping force will have to be resisted by the Locktite.
Had you seen me at 4:44 you would have witnessed an inverted flying duck; I was quacking up... Oh, and of course your enemies have tiny heads as skulls collapse in the absence of brains! (Would that it were so; then we could tell who not to argue with.)
humans are strange creatures, we like to make things smaller in precise ways and also play/sound like animals. I honestly wouldn't like to be without them.
Hello. I really like your videos on machining and teaching. I’d like to ask if lathe like the one you’re using capable of threading 4.5 inch tube for telescope making? Threads such as M114x1 or M117x1? Thank you and keep up the great work.
I think the time is up for you to stop press fitting things, & start to cold-shrink / hot-expand things to fitt. Without the fear of distortion (16'40"). You seem ready and capable, from your accuracy Level. Keep going, you are great.
No one UA-camr is a replacement for another, but I do miss Clickspring. You are up there with the UA-cam machining Greats!
Aww shucks ☺️
@@Blondihacks would you ever attempt at building a clock kit, it would be awesome
Well, Chris does keep putting out Clickspring Clips. His last video (on UA-cam at least) as I recall he would be putting out more videos as things progressed. It may be he has to sort out some issue with the Device or they may be other issues involved. AKA life and its assorted issues.
Clickspring released new video on Patreon today ...
@@WalterEGough Which is where I'm going now that this is done! 😀😀
Yup, I absolutely roared with that duck joke
🦆 🦆 🦆
I hope the day you move to a Bridgeport, arrives soon. I had a table top mill for 20 years, and finally upgraded to an Enco, "bridgeport" style machine, a decade ago, and recently moved on to an actual Bridgeport. Each move was a major improvement. I would also recommend a misting coolant setup, it will substantially improve your "bottom line". I've seen these clamps for decades, I think I will make a set. Thanks!
It's always a pleasant surprise when i hear Quinn's voice after falling half asleep while watching one of AvEs not so interesting videos.
Lol, she just said, "Sneek the reemer in there." That's a line i will use in the near future.
Nice. Excellent aluminum-nest quack and what an exciting conclusion! A worthy sequel to the original.
"The bevel is just decorative", she says; as IF this isn't what separates us from the animals.
We love your projects (the steam engine, WOW!) and your sense of humor. Keep up the great work Quinn!
Wow amazing. I just came here by a suggestion of mr. Tuchman. Great channel.
Gotta admit, my eyes got wide when you broke out the hacksaw.
Good series! Thank you for putting it up.
Good to see Punkducky again. 😊 That joke was on spot. 😂
Actually this die holder and let the lathe runnig method is how we teach it over here in Germany: Relase the tailstock, press the die holder to your part with the free running tailstock, make sure the handle has a place to rest and start the lathe at a low rpm. Has always worked perfectly, but you will need a lathe powerful enough to do this.
My kit comes in today! I'm so excited to get started
I got my kit and its beautiful. I'm very excited to start working on it. This is a high quality kit!
I have to admit I've never been much of a fan of cutting threads (especially long ones) on the lathe with a die. But if necessary it is usually a good idea to at least cut a partial depth thread before going to the die. Long commercially available threaded rod and screws are normally produced by thread rolling machines which have the advantage of producing a stronger thread. On some threaded mass produced items the threads are cut using a Diehead that opens when either the work itself trips a stop or the machine trips a stop. The shop I worked in we would have to make up long threaded shafts for disassembling machinery components and a Landis Thread Chaser was the quickest way to do it.
On Stafan's channel he uses a German version of Kant Twist clamps that feature a metric Acme (15° Trapezoidal Thread). While I agree that a Acme type of thread or even a Butress would have certain advantages a regular SAE, Whitworth or ISO thread form is more than strong enough to destroy an individual or a set of this type of clamp. The reason I know is because a Bozo "borrowed" mine once and returned them as Always Twisted Clamps. Sadly there were too many witnesses around.
Nice work by the way. And no I do not need another set. I have plenty.
I see those fancy Knipex pliers 👍. Very cool to see the completion of the project!
They look really useful Quinn.👍👍
Love the duck nest, great job 👏 👍 I need a few of these clamps for sure
Very nice final result, and satisfying to see how well the finished result works.
Nice, Great Job Quinn. Your really a Great Machinist. Thanks for the Video.
I absoulutly love youre videos, keep doing tnem,.I'm from sweden
4:32 - it didn’t take me too long to figure out that you were making a bird’s nest... but you nevertheless succeeded in completely surprising and delighting me with that. I laughed out loud, one of those “oh that’s so fun!” kinds of laughs. Thank you! :)
Thanks to this video series, it motivated me to order the kit.
I’m enjoying the build.
With your step by step guidance, it’s more fun and less stressful
When I saw the intro I figured a bush was coming, but I assumed it was part of the design! Looks better the way you did it :)
Great job, as always.
Very cool! I ordered a kit from D. Gray. Well, two kits, I also ordered his Toolmaker's clamp kit as well. New to all this and those two will be my first projects for when the lathe arrives.
Nice work Quinn, I'm looking forward to your next project!
Hi from Australia, love your video information and have just bought a kit from your guy in USA to send to me in Australia. Happy New Year to you and thanks for all you do on your site. Regards Merv
Your opening got you your thumbs up.
Very well done. And a great tool as a result. Keep on keeping on.
Doug sent me the revised measurements, now I know how that was discovered 😉. That's how I do those long threads too... as long as it's not 4140 🤣. Worked out great! Doug will be very happy. Thanks again! Cheers! 👍😁👍
Quinn thanks for another great video.a couple of years ago I had some side plates water cut for 4 each of 3 different sizes of these just copying some images from the web and, like you enjoyed the challenge and joys of getting parts to have that 'sexy' fit. One change I did, however, was to put a hex on the end of the lead-screw so that I could use a cordless drill to tighten and 'untighten' the clamp.
Love your Zen Milling Interlude best❤️👍. Stay safe and healthy, Quinn. @blondihacks
Amazing work as usual. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for the reminder, that I NEED, a set of thin parallels, and after the other day's, umm, booboo, I probably need a new set of regular parallels too, Doh!.
Thanks Quinn,
Scott, the destroyer of perfectly good milling parallels
19:42 Any enemies of Quinn's would have to be ignorant pin-heads, therefore, these clamps are certain to have adequate capacity.
Very well thought out, intelligent build. You did such a great job on the precision, you can call them "Can't Twist" clamps < rimshot > Thanks for sharing and I hope everyone enters something clever in your Patreon contest; even though I desire to win it! 😁
Hello Quinn,
Definitely gripping stuff.... See you next week...
Take care.
Paul,,
I see what you did there. 😬
5:25 Sprocket wants to play.
Lovely work, thoroughly enjoyed watching that. Time to get a kit 😉
they are great for grinding small parts on a grinding wheel, strong grip away from fingers
Excellent job making those clamps. You are the cutest machinist on UA-cam. I love your videos.
Your friend
Earl
Connecticut
you were reading my mind on your creation of the bird's nest. ha ha
That hack with the board on the lathe - that's courage :D
Congrats! They look like they're going to be very useful. 👍
Them's some nice clamps right there.
Quinn, Great video, when you were threading that shaft on the lathe Tap Magic is the thing to use its like it releases the friction and and makes the tap handle easier to turn , especially if you are concerned about the lathe not having the tourq at a slow RPM . Pete M
I use tap magic when tapping, yup
Super nice, so impressed always when you either make your own tools or fix a thing whilst upgrading it! I never would dare sticking stuff in between a lathe, I'll just take my sweet time. Forces, pressure, they are the only things I'm scared off.
Fantastic steady rest upgrades, Quinn: So much nicer than the original Chinese model. The clamps are fantastic, the new bronze bushings are sexy, but the dance-while-threading interlude was the best part of the video. :)
You are ever the best
Might need a thrust washer after doing that bushing, over time the threaded rod will probably push the bushing out... A hardened washer might be a good upgrade too though.
These are sexy clamps. I have a few of these but will not buy anymore (and I do need more). I think we should be making them and patronizing a small producer that also makes great perogies.
Nice job Blondi !!
After seeing that brass bushing, my mind couldn't stop playing Abney Park's song "Mr. Overkill". But it is indeed very nice upgrade
I promise to keep any comments to myself if she ever has to break out the spherical cutting attachment for the lathe when cutting brass.
Making a pair of these is definitely on my wish list one day. good to hear there are people producing kits for them. though I'm curious about how hard it would be to fabricate the plates. Great video as always!
Nice work
I like your videos so much I watch the adverts to the end. And then your video, obvs :D
I'm lovin' all this aluminum "frog hair" pile you have created. LOL
4:37- 4:44 earned my subscription 😂😂😂
Teasing woodworkers with nice consistent fits, I see. Well, consider me teased... and still subscribed because I need at least some of that fit in my life, and I can't afford even just a mini lathe
Are they the hands of Francis ‘clamps’ Clampazzo? As always loving the channel, keep up the awesome content Quinn
DA CLAMPS!
I think you really need to mount your band saw in a table. It makes some cuts much easier and cleaner. I do enjoy your content.
I don’t have space
Very nice looking clamps, I think I might opt for stainless steel hardware just to give it a little shine factor. It seems like those black oxide cap screws like to rust after while...
For safety instead of using a board between your die handle and your ways. Take one of your empty tool holders and make a bar with a milled out pocket so it looks like a two prong fork. Make the fork part wide enough so it presses on the back part of the die handle body top and bottom but won’t interfere with your threaded stock that’s passing through the die. Make it long enough so it only uses the first three of your set screws on the holder. use the 4th set screw furthest away from your work to hold a piece of hex stock sticking out about an inch from the tool holder toward the direction of the chuck. That will act as a stop to keep your die handle from spinning.
That way you can use that on your tool post. It will allow you to follow your die handle with your carriage to not only put pressure on it as you are threading your bar so it doesn’t wobble but it’s also safer than relying on a piece of wood.
Good idea!
Nice they came out good :D
Hi What about a ER collet chuck for mill hold any odd size shaft.
My miller sufferers will day tight Drilling a major problem found a little ER chuck often helps.
Steve
Nice Project, Quinn. I really love these "raindeer"-clamps (to me they look like raindeers, when You place them on the table, standing upright) and the idea to build them myself is tempting. However I can get good ones in size 100 (similar to Yours) from my supplier for around 20 US$ and if I saw it right, the kit is almost twice as expensive. The slightly smallersize 75, which I personally use even more often is just around 13 US$. As this is a tool rather than a model engine and I have not run out of waiting projects, I truely do not see the benefit of going for the kit.
I'd even find it more tempting to build a pair myself from stock available in the shop than getting the kit.
You should show how/why you are wearing a band-aid Might help some of us!
Quinn, I was going to ask about the V grooves but you answered it any way!
Nice clamps!
Film scratches on the Future Cam? Should I buy Kodak stock while it’s cheap?
Here's looking forward to a gripping installment.... Sorry, I'll get my coat.
Dagnabbit, someone beat me to the pun 🥺
LOL Sprocket went for the rats nest at 5:23.
HAHAHAHA that duck really caught me off guard, nearly choked on my sandwich!
I was expecting an egg. 😆
After watching the intro, thats so me!! :D
Very cool, do you think the bottom of the v-groves should be removed with a slotting blade... or small endmill on the off chance you want to clamp something on its edge?
Loved the intro Quinn...not quite Samual L. but you have potential!
great job, Quinn. can you please add a link to you pin gauge set?
Hello Q.
When forming the jaw V grooves is there a reason NOT to put a hole at the bottom of the groove? For clamping edged rather than round stock. It just seems like a good idea to have it available if needed. I am not a machinist, but enjoy watching your work, Abom79, KRucker, Engles, Windyhill etc.
Those icicle chips BURN really cool!
That's what I thought...
Every time that bandsaw comes out i wonder if there is ever going to be a project to make a levered stand so it can be left doing long cuts without having to be Quinnhandled. =)
I don’t have space for it
Pretty good little G'Day in there hahaha
That bush proves the statement “It’s never a mistake, it’s a design feature”
You could be the life of the party, bring a bowl of nuts and your new clamps!
use metho as a coolant on alloy as it will evaporate when u finish
I never use that type of clamp and was just curious. Other than the accuracy of the clamping faces, I'm assuming that unlike a c-clamp the lead screw comes directly out at you being a major advantage.
whoa, do you know tot? first 30 seconds you almost have me cracking up....good luck
I assume FutureCam 8000 is your own product. If so I have my chequebook ready just say how much.
Wouldn't flanged bushings have been better? and/or a hardened washer between the shoulder on the screw and the trunion piece. Looks like much of the clamping force will have to be resisted by the Locktite.
Had you seen me at 4:44 you would have witnessed an inverted flying duck; I was quacking up... Oh, and of course your enemies have tiny heads as skulls collapse in the absence of brains! (Would that it were so; then we could tell who not to argue with.)
humans are strange creatures, we like to make things smaller in precise ways and also play/sound like animals. I honestly wouldn't like to be without them.
I love your opening!!!
Hello. I really like your videos on machining and teaching. I’d like to ask if lathe like the one you’re using capable of threading 4.5 inch tube for telescope making? Threads such as M114x1 or M117x1? Thank you and keep up the great work.
I believe that it is. Are you?
Respect for Labor
I think the time is up for you to stop press fitting things, & start to cold-shrink / hot-expand things to fitt. Without the fear of distortion (16'40"). You seem ready and capable, from your accuracy Level. Keep going, you are great.
Did you correct the error in the give away kit? ^^
Nice job. They'd rust in about 5 minutes in my shop ☹ however, I wish I had a hundred of them.
where can I purchase the clamp kit featured in you contest.
Thank you Quinn. I am surprised to learn that you speak French with a Chicago accent.
15:01
Greetings from Serbia! :)
It’s an excellent reamer! 😄
What's the reamer set? I think the top one is a L&I reamer, but I can't quite make out the markings on the Made In Serbia one.
@12:48, I don't know why 3-Barleycorns = one Imperial inch never caught on...
future cam has some weird vertical film camera artifacts 🤔 I thought you were about to do some wire EDM cutting 😂
I entered, now I'm part of her Terminator Army.