Thanks for the brass ring upgrade testing! I had asked you last video to try it and you did, you are the man Donald. The shocks are made very well and are a better value then others plus they are prefilled. I tapped out the two upper holes on the frame shock mounts but then the suspension had very limited travel? The stock tires also rubbed on the body way too much! I like the idea of new holes drilled and tapped but such a pain to do cleanly. I'm gonna disassemble my oil shock and do shock limiters on the shafts then install them in the stock forward holes like you had yours.,
LOL - I remember, and I answered that I do not have them ;-) Totally forgot I had ordered those rings, too - and then they showed up with the shocks. Guess it would not even be necessary to make a thread for the M2 screws into the frame. A 2 mm hole and a nut on the other side should do. I will try... I do have thread making tools, but if this will not work, I will simply use a nut and longer screws. If you'd take out the frame rales, this would be much easier - but a bit of work.
I fitted mine last week. The shorter link replaces the long link by moving the ball stud forward to the pre-drilled hole in the chassis. Took me a while to figure it out but no idea why you have to do it...maybe something to do with the longer shocks?
Oh my. This seems really difficult to work on with those extremely tight screws! I just ordered a Harvest specifically to work on and upgrade. It's going to be a real bummer if I can't get the screws loose. Question: do only Hobby Plus shocks fit on these or is there an aftermarket company making parts that will fit? Also, is a less strong spring available for those shocks? They seemed too springy to me. Great videos, I'm enjoying them greatly, thank you!!
Most shocks that fit FCX24, TRX-4M etc. will fit - the new (awesome) Batrazzi shocks are nearly exactly the same as the Hobby Plus shocks. Donno about springs... (where to buy). But M2 Hex screws with hex button head and you are good.
Appreciate the video, I have these parts on the way. I am curious what the short little link is for got to be for some reason maybe longer shocks that link needs to be changed
TexomaRC showed it - you should probably mount it instead of the longer link. But nobody knows why. I will maybe use it on the opposite side (where the long 050 motor does not allow a link of normal length), if I should try servo on axle mount and remove the panhard bar in the T-Hunter.
Dude I could not get Those screws off omg, had to use a hot Knife just to get the shock off and then Pliers to remove The screws, it can't take Longer shocks Because of the chassie mounted servo, worst rc to try a upgrade, mine is the evo, still like it, its just not Friendly lol
LOL - those screws are horrible. Same in Hobby Plus CR-18, CR-24, RocHobby Katana and FMS Atlas 6x6. I have ENGINEER PZ-57 pliers (get those on Amazon), which did already save me several times in such situations. Highly recommended! (However, in the Atlas 6x6 I even had to drill out a hole, cause the screw broke). They use way too much threadlock.
I just got my Rock Van a couple of days ago. When I swapped out the wheels & tires, I found that each axle had 2 small metal washers on the ends of the axles. Did you find that too? Thanx...
Ich finde es immer ganz nett, wenn keine Affiliate Links eingefügt werden, um zu "beweisen", dass ich nichts verkaufen will, sondern meine ehrliche Meinung sage ;-) Hab die Sachen von Fair RC. Messing-Ringe: www.fairrc.com/products/1-18-cr18p-optional-brass-wheel-weight?variant=42617283412175 Dämpfer: www.fairrc.com/products/1-18-cr18p-optional-oil-filled-aluminum-shocks?variant=42664194408655
@@donaldsneffe Vielen lieben Dank, ich kann verstehen, dass mit den Links verstehen! Aber es ist super nett, wenn man danach fragt, das man diese erhält. Denn Dr. Google liefert halt gerade im Modellbaubereich oft eine Menge Links, die ins leere führen. Also vielen lieben Dank noch einmal.
If you cannot hold the shaft with your fingers, take a paper towel or a piece of paper and flat pliers, paper between pliers and shaft (that's how I do it; others use snippers and hold the shaft with the blades right above the plastic of the lower ball link, I never tried).
@@donaldsneffe I thought this might be the case, just didn’t want to potentially ruin the shafts. The spare springs that come with the shocks are the stiffer ones right? Much appreciated
Great videos, I learn so much thanks.
Nice nice nice indeed
Another great video. Ordered my oil shocks and awaiting their arrival. Can’t wait!
Thanks for the brass ring upgrade testing! I had asked you last video to try it and you did, you are the man Donald. The shocks are made very well and are a better value then others plus they are prefilled. I tapped out the two upper holes on the frame shock mounts but then the suspension had very limited travel? The stock tires also rubbed on the body way too much! I like the idea of new holes drilled and tapped but such a pain to do cleanly. I'm gonna disassemble my oil shock and do shock limiters on the shafts then install them in the stock forward holes like you had yours.,
LOL - I remember, and I answered that I do not have them ;-)
Totally forgot I had ordered those rings, too - and then they showed up with the shocks.
Guess it would not even be necessary to make a thread for the M2 screws into the frame. A 2 mm hole and a nut on the other side should do. I will try... I do have thread making tools, but if this will not work, I will simply use a nut and longer screws.
If you'd take out the frame rales, this would be much easier - but a bit of work.
Looks like that link is to adjust the drive shaft distance
Thank you for another great detailed video! Do you think those brass wheel weights would fit inside the stock wheels of an FMS Atlas 6x6?
No, they are too large. 1.2 rims (but did not test)
I fitted mine last week. The shorter link replaces the long link by moving the ball stud forward to the pre-drilled hole in the chassis. Took me a while to figure it out but no idea why you have to do it...maybe something to do with the longer shocks?
Hey great video, does anyone know where to get the EVO version of the flatbed part? Apparently they are different between the reg and evo editions.
Oh my. This seems really difficult to work on with those extremely tight screws! I just ordered a Harvest specifically to work on and upgrade. It's going to be a real bummer if I can't get the screws loose. Question: do only Hobby Plus shocks fit on these or is there an aftermarket company making parts that will fit? Also, is a less strong spring available for those shocks? They seemed too springy to me. Great videos, I'm enjoying them greatly, thank you!!
Most shocks that fit FCX24, TRX-4M etc. will fit - the new (awesome) Batrazzi shocks are nearly exactly the same as the Hobby Plus shocks.
Donno about springs... (where to buy).
But M2 Hex screws with hex button head and you are good.
Appreciate the video, I have these parts on the way. I am curious what the short little link is for got to be for some reason maybe longer shocks that link needs to be changed
TexomaRC showed it - you should probably mount it instead of the longer link. But nobody knows why.
I will maybe use it on the opposite side (where the long 050 motor does not allow a link of normal length), if I should try servo on axle mount and remove the panhard bar in the T-Hunter.
Dude I could not get Those screws off omg, had to use a hot Knife just to get the shock off and then Pliers to remove The screws, it can't take Longer shocks Because of the chassie mounted servo, worst rc to try a upgrade, mine is the evo, still like it, its just not Friendly lol
LOL - those screws are horrible. Same in Hobby Plus CR-18, CR-24, RocHobby Katana and FMS Atlas 6x6.
I have ENGINEER PZ-57 pliers (get those on Amazon), which did already save me several times in such situations. Highly recommended! (However, in the Atlas 6x6 I even had to drill out a hole, cause the screw broke).
They use way too much threadlock.
I heated my screws for a few seconds with a soldering iron to soften the threadlock, they come out ok then.
I just got my Rock Van a couple of days ago. When I swapped out the wheels & tires, I found that each axle had 2 small metal washers on the ends of the axles. Did you find that too? Thanx...
Yes, found it in some (???) - but guess will work without, too.
Thanx a lot for your reply...@@donaldsneffe
Ein Hallo an den Kollegen in Österreich, es wäre ganz nett einen Link zu den Bauteilen einzufügen. Wäre das möglich? Vielen lieben Dank.
Ich finde es immer ganz nett, wenn keine Affiliate Links eingefügt werden, um zu "beweisen", dass ich nichts verkaufen will, sondern meine ehrliche Meinung sage ;-)
Hab die Sachen von Fair RC.
Messing-Ringe: www.fairrc.com/products/1-18-cr18p-optional-brass-wheel-weight?variant=42617283412175
Dämpfer: www.fairrc.com/products/1-18-cr18p-optional-oil-filled-aluminum-shocks?variant=42664194408655
@@donaldsneffe Vielen lieben Dank, ich kann verstehen, dass mit den Links verstehen! Aber es ist super nett, wenn man danach fragt, das man diese erhält. Denn Dr. Google liefert halt gerade im Modellbaubereich oft eine Menge Links, die ins leere führen. Also vielen lieben Dank noch einmal.
Have you figured out how to swap the springs over? I’m not quite sure yet and don’t want to ruin anything.
If you cannot hold the shaft with your fingers, take a paper towel or a piece of paper and flat pliers, paper between pliers and shaft (that's how I do it; others use snippers and hold the shaft with the blades right above the plastic of the lower ball link, I never tried).
@@donaldsneffe I thought this might be the case, just didn’t want to potentially ruin the shafts. The spare springs that come with the shocks are the stiffer ones right? Much appreciated