if you have a engine that the crank dipps into the oil in the sump a dry sump setup makes a big difference a cheaper option is to not fill the oil to max under half but well above min and check it regularly
No. Dry sumps require at a minimum a two stage external pump driven by the engine (to pressuring the oil going into the block, and to pump the oil to and from the oil tank), so it's swings and roundabouts for economy. If you want the crank to not dip into the sump oil a windage tray is what you're after, cheaper, lighter and less complicated. Race motors use dry sumping for oil control purposes (surge etc) because the system costs a small amount of power. It's also used to lower the mass of the engine and c of g. What's more and as for putting less oil in the engine than spec- no. When it's running a lot of oil is up in the block and head doing its job under pressure. There's a lot less in the sump than you think. And if you dry sump you need a tank and more oil and weight which also affects economy
Things that I've actually done that work: (on an automatic obviously) fit a custom-made torque-converter with an ultra-low stall speed. Dramatically improves fuel consumption round town, although the torque converter manufacturer may resist making it for fear of it stalling as soon as it's put in gear. Ignore them; (On a diesel) Having the fuel pump outlet turned back to the inlet via 'Y' piece. Reduces the flow of fuel through the fuel filter and enables an old ford mechanical pump to make the injectors to be self-priming as well (note: don't do then when the lift pump is in the tank, only do this when the lift pump is built in to the main pump); (on an old carburettor engine with automatic choke) Disable the automatic choke and fit a manual choke; (On a standard petrol engine of any size): Use an exhaust for the next engine size down. For example, use a 1400 exhaust on a 1600 Astra mk4. The fitting is compatible, but it has higher back-pressure. It reduces maximum power but economy improves (yes, I can explain why, even though it's counter-intuitive) (On a diesel) Fit an ultra-low back-pressure exhaust system, to improve both economy and power. On any car) fit a higher-compression-ratio head and a camshaft with less open time for both inlet and exhaust (note: This requires an exhaust system with much lower back pressure) (on a carburettor petrol car) - disable the accelerator pump jet mechanism. It's a total waste of fuel (on a carburettor petrol car or an injected car that does not have closed circuit air/fuel ratio adjustment) - fit an Ecotek valve in the inlet manifold, preferably just after the carb before the air splits to go in different cylinders. Makes it start easier, makes it feel fuel injected, makes it more economical, makes engine over-run more economical (reduces engine braking). Things I have not done that I intend to try out: Change a 16v engine to 8v by removing half of the lifters or cam lobes (whichever is appropriate for the engine) Reduce maximum engine speed to half through engine management computer Use half-strength valve springs on the remaining valves
The problem with over inflation. Besides, losing contact area with a road is the fact that you beat up your suspension system and a little bit of overinflation isn't bad but a lot of it can actually destroy your suspension because you a lot of problems later on bull joints, whatever😊
Undertray, Separation Edging, Air-Curtain, Hood Ducting, Cooling Air Redirecting, All that I'm going to be doing to my car in 2025. Getting more air to the intake plenum helps, and using 1970's emission set-up for quick pre-heat of the engine also is a winner. Moving the Capacitor to a cool place (Like the cool air-intake or filter box) also helps. For city driving I set the tire pressure to what's recommended by the car manufacturer, but if I am going on the highway I'll put an extra 5 pounds in them. As for 'Additives' I only use ones that have lubricants in them (Lucas) for the top of the cylinders. Great for long road trips.
In the case of fuel additives, It's not just about how it affects your fuel economy and whether that averages out to any fuel cost savings. The big one is about preventive engine health care. Some additives can go a long way to prevent certain failures, and significantly decrease long-term component wear. If your goal is to keep an engine running for as many generations as possible, anything that has a meaningful effect on engine health translates into major cost savings down the road. A clean engine will last significantly longer! Keep a proper oil change schedule and use a sensible amount of cleaning and friction reduction fuel additives at sensible intervals. And if you park the car seasonally, strive to do an oil change just before, and use a fuel tank protective additive and fill up the tank and then pull out the battery and let it sit undisturbed until it's season arrives. These tips will definitely help your engine last longer!
I'm going to sound like a total nerd here. Golf balls have dimples because they rotate as they travel through the air and the dimples creates a cushion of air around them reducing drag. This was tried on car intakes but didn't improve things. It will be interesting to try it on the bodywork. I guess the vortex generators are reducing drag to a certain extent which is a similar principle.
@@albieoval1657 Don't fall into that trap. We wax aircraft - because it takes the dirt away (dirt which induces drag via interruption of the laminar flow). You're car's skin - feel it when you haven't washed it and waxed it - then feel it after you have. Totally smooth - helps to set up the laminar flow, lessening drag. Over long trips this will add up to fuel savings.
@sparkymikey25 use Google instead of UA-cam. Video isn't supposed to be the most efficient way to learn. It's meant to be entertaining and educational.
Extralube ZX1 added to oil in engine. A little in the fuel and applying some to the gearbox and greasing the wheel bearings did reduce friction in the car and provide better starting. When used with hyper-miling the economy really was boosted in an old Corsa. Adding tires with lower rolling resistance also helped. Extralube ZX1 Grease on the wheel bearing really reduced the friction and allowed the wheel to spin freely when jacked up similar to those fidget spinners. I have had lower improvements in a one-litre Micra but didn't do the wheel bearings or gearbox.I believe I got 1hp more. My current DIG-S seems to have benefited from ZX1 treatment. Engine oil and fuel only. It seems to run freer and have a little more power which can be used either for speed or using lower revs to gain the same power output. A small improvement in MPG was observed according to the OBC. BG44K, Techron Fuel Treatment, and Archoil 6900-P do seem to help keeping my Direct injection Engine cleaner. ASTA 3000 was also a very good additive but I cannot seem to get that any more.
How about cutting a strip of another tire slightly larger than the one you're using? Deflate your tire and put the strip around it. So you have less contact, area with the road.
If engine has water cooled oil cooler .. then masking the oil sump to retain the engine heat wirk ... Need a temp sensor in the sump .. n nit to criss the sump oil temp beyond 120 deg C
there are some morons in hare, who don't know anything about cars. i am telling you that this guy and his channel is brilliant, and such a gem 💎 for people to learn about the cars 🔥🤘
HHO is the biggest con since fuel magnets. I run biofuel AC stag propane kit, economy is up 20-25% global average. Second, liqui moly diesel purge, 2 hours fast idle to consume 1 gallon of cleaner saw economy jump from 42 to 48mpg Lastly, 4 wheel tracking alignment, I saw 3mpg improvement. Currently driving tdv6 xf, averages 900 miles a tank, over 67mpg average, 88 on a run, 45 around town. Don’t forget mooneyes
Another issue that hasn’t been addressed directly: rotational mass. Reducing weight helps fuel economy, and reducing rotating weight really helps improve fuel economy. How do you do it? Get smaller rims. If your car has 17” rims, try downsizing to 16” rims. Of course that means new tires as well. Also, check first to see if the smaller rim will fit over the front brakes. Smaller rims do hurt in the looks department, though. Bigger rims always look better…….to a point.
if you put 17 inch wheels 205/45r17 from 185/60r15 but the 15's being steel rims and the 17's being super lightweight alloy rims, would you save fuel or worsen the economy?
According to this video my petrol car is an exception to the rule that improved performance by an ECU remap would decrease fuel economy. But not to my surprise really since my Volvo has a 2.5 liter engine with a low pressure turbo. The new setup of the ECU did not aim at max increase of power but focused mainly on extra torque. Thus making it a bit quicker but most and for all accelerate with so much more ease and joy. The sound is temporarily improved as a result of a broken cat and removed central muffler 😬
I was a believer in pricely fuel and oil additives... Untill a 40years of experianced and highly skooled mecanic made me understand this: By the time the car seems to benefit from them it is actualy too late. What it means is that you are using the wrong fuel and/or oil. Infact, adding additives to a car that runs on the perfect chemistry mix does more damage than good
@@gertverhoeven The key thing here is the car running on perfect chemistry. Pump gas is not perfect and lacks the detergents needed to keep these deposits from forming. If you use a cleaner as maintenance, it will help get the car closer to the perfect chemistry. It’s impossible to find what’s perfect but it’s definitely not what they sell at the pump.
Tires make a big difference. Try some different fuel stations as some vehicles mileage can vary 10% or more from station to station. Obviously, slow down if you really want to get better fuel mileage. I had a Cummins diesel, which would get slightly better mileage when I added 2 stroke oil to my fuel.
Removing or not using the AC only works if you're NOT going to open the windows instead, otherwise the extra air drag will waste more fuel than you saved by not having the AC on (over about 50 mph, and depends how much you open the windows), anyway, who would to roast inside their car on a hot day?😛
Good tip, especially if the aircon is on recirculate where it is maintaining a cool temp rather than reduce warm external air all the time. In my experience speeds of around 40mph with the window open cause extra drag and reduce fuel economy.
Higher octane fuel is more resistant to pr-ignition caused higher compression. Octane rating has nothing to do with the amount of energy per unit of fuel. ie; The higher your compression ratio; the higher the octane rating of the fuel has to be to avoid igniting prematurely due to the higher temperature caused by the higher compression. Does your ECU change/increase your compression ratio somehow?
I was with you this entire video up until the end where you set the term snake oil. I generally don't listen to people who use that term. It means the person using the term either doesn't know what they're talking about and don't want to put time to learn or they're just low intelligence.
Perhaps one of us is missing something here. If it's me please explain, but the definition of the term "snake oil" has moved on and evolved in language from the origins of fake health remedies to become an expansive term expressing false marketing, raising false hopes or deceptive products that don't do what they claim.
Adding hydrogen works , using it for last 15 plus years ... Need to play around ecu to get best out if it .. and yes .. am an automobile engineer ,wirking with an auto giant , in powertrain division , engine testing on validation abd proving dynamometers ..fir 12 years ... 6 hours per day ...
How would that work? First you turn fuel into electricity, than electricity to hydrogen, which you than burn with fuel. Energy gets lost in those conversion. Physics can't be beaten.
The test for HOH is simple: If you get more mileage after the mod it works. The problem is usually the ECU wants to dump in more fuel to compensate for extra oxygen coming in via the HOH (O2 & H2). Seen some HOH units that work but most don't. It helps if your HOH electrolysis unit is efficient and doesn't require too much power to run. :-)
Whilst I try to please everyone I'm afraid you'll just have to put up with regional accents as UA-cam is international and I am from Southern UK so if you can't follow my voice or don't like the accent (or even if people take exception to my face or hair style) then just move along. I certainly won't be trying to adopt another regional accent such as I assume your local southern Australian (Geelong Melbourne) dialect.
![How a Hypermiler Gets Double Fuel Economy [2x⛽ Eco Fuel Saving Tips]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AI8bF3F9-_M/mqdefault.jpg)
if you have a engine that the crank dipps into the oil in the sump a dry sump setup makes a big difference a cheaper option is to not fill the oil to max under half but well above min and check it regularly
Good tip and thanks for the support my friend.
No. Dry sumps require at a minimum a two stage external pump driven by the engine (to pressuring the oil going into the block, and to pump the oil to and from the oil tank), so it's swings and roundabouts for economy. If you want the crank to not dip into the sump oil a windage tray is what you're after, cheaper, lighter and less complicated. Race motors use dry sumping for oil control purposes (surge etc) because the system costs a small amount of power. It's also used to lower the mass of the engine and c of g. What's more and as for putting less oil in the engine than spec- no. When it's running a lot of oil is up in the block and head doing its job under pressure. There's a lot less in the sump than you think. And if you dry sump you need a tank and more oil and weight which also affects economy
Things that I've actually done that work:
(on an automatic obviously) fit a custom-made torque-converter with an ultra-low stall speed. Dramatically improves fuel consumption round town, although the torque converter manufacturer may resist making it for fear of it stalling as soon as it's put in gear. Ignore them;
(On a diesel) Having the fuel pump outlet turned back to the inlet via 'Y' piece. Reduces the flow of fuel through the fuel filter and enables an old ford mechanical pump to make the injectors to be self-priming as well (note: don't do then when the lift pump is in the tank, only do this when the lift pump is built in to the main pump);
(on an old carburettor engine with automatic choke) Disable the automatic choke and fit a manual choke;
(On a standard petrol engine of any size): Use an exhaust for the next engine size down. For example, use a 1400 exhaust on a 1600 Astra mk4. The fitting is compatible, but it has higher back-pressure. It reduces maximum power but economy improves (yes, I can explain why, even though it's counter-intuitive)
(On a diesel) Fit an ultra-low back-pressure exhaust system, to improve both economy and power.
On any car) fit a higher-compression-ratio head and a camshaft with less open time for both inlet and exhaust (note: This requires an exhaust system with much lower back pressure)
(on a carburettor petrol car) - disable the accelerator pump jet mechanism. It's a total waste of fuel
(on a carburettor petrol car or an injected car that does not have closed circuit air/fuel ratio adjustment) - fit an Ecotek valve in the inlet manifold, preferably just after the carb before the air splits to go in different cylinders. Makes it start easier, makes it feel fuel injected, makes it more economical, makes engine over-run more economical (reduces engine braking).
Things I have not done that I intend to try out:
Change a 16v engine to 8v by removing half of the lifters or cam lobes (whichever is appropriate for the engine)
Reduce maximum engine speed to half through engine management computer
Use half-strength valve springs on the remaining valves
The problem with over inflation. Besides, losing contact area with a road is the fact that you beat up your suspension system and a little bit of overinflation isn't bad but a lot of it can actually destroy your suspension because you a lot of problems later on bull joints, whatever😊
Ball joints 😉, over inflated tyres also wear more in the centre, so would have to be changed more often. Surely that would offset the minor gains?
Undertray, Separation Edging, Air-Curtain, Hood Ducting, Cooling Air Redirecting, All that I'm going to be doing to my car in 2025. Getting more air to the intake plenum helps, and using 1970's emission set-up for quick pre-heat of the engine also is a winner. Moving the Capacitor to a cool place (Like the cool air-intake or filter box) also helps. For city driving I set the tire pressure to what's recommended by the car manufacturer, but if I am going on the highway I'll put an extra 5 pounds in them. As for 'Additives' I only use ones that have lubricants in them (Lucas) for the top of the cylinders. Great for long road trips.
In the case of fuel additives, It's not just about how it affects your fuel economy and whether that averages out to any fuel cost savings. The big one is about preventive engine health care. Some additives can go a long way to prevent certain failures, and significantly decrease long-term component wear. If your goal is to keep an engine running for as many generations as possible, anything that has a meaningful effect on engine health translates into major cost savings down the road. A clean engine will last significantly longer! Keep a proper oil change schedule and use a sensible amount of cleaning and friction reduction fuel additives at sensible intervals. And if you park the car seasonally, strive to do an oil change just before, and use a fuel tank protective additive and fill up the tank and then pull out the battery and let it sit undisturbed until it's season arrives. These tips will definitely help your engine last longer!
Water mist injection works , especially along with calculated cooling system masking
Really ? How ?
@@TheKlaus3001 all custom to your vehicle
Smaller mirrors , under treys , naca ducts , underbody flooring .. longer tails , air dams work
Wax the car. Smoother skin - less drag.
@@dont.beknown5622if smooth is better, then why do golf balls have dimples on them?
I'm going to sound like a total nerd here. Golf balls have dimples because they rotate as they travel through the air and the dimples creates a cushion of air around them reducing drag. This was tried on car intakes but didn't improve things. It will be interesting to try it on the bodywork. I guess the vortex generators are reducing drag to a certain extent which is a similar principle.
@@albieoval1657 Don't fall into that trap. We wax aircraft - because it takes the dirt away (dirt which induces drag via interruption of the laminar flow). You're car's skin - feel it when you haven't washed it and waxed it - then feel it after you have. Totally smooth - helps to set up the laminar flow, lessening drag. Over long trips this will add up to fuel savings.
@@torquecars I read that dimpling intakes works, but the time/effort was too great for the improvement achieved
Could have done this whole video in 4 minutes
He could have done it in 4 hours. But it was a decent choice in length anyway
@@aceman0000099 no, it was too long, hence my comment.
I wish he had pictures of the devices as he described them.
@@MichaelCzajka Could have typed your comment in 4 words: I’m an impatient fool
@sparkymikey25 use Google instead of UA-cam. Video isn't supposed to be the most efficient way to learn. It's meant to be entertaining and educational.
Extralube ZX1 added to oil in engine. A little in the fuel and applying some to the gearbox and greasing the wheel bearings did reduce friction in the car and provide better starting. When used with hyper-miling the economy really was boosted in an old Corsa. Adding tires with lower rolling resistance also helped.
Extralube ZX1 Grease on the wheel bearing really reduced the friction and allowed the wheel to spin freely when jacked up similar to those fidget spinners.
I have had lower improvements in a one-litre Micra but didn't do the wheel bearings or gearbox.I believe I got 1hp more.
My current DIG-S seems to have benefited from ZX1 treatment. Engine oil and fuel only. It seems to run freer and have a little more power which can be used either for speed or using lower revs to gain the same power output. A small improvement in MPG was observed according to the OBC.
BG44K, Techron Fuel Treatment, and Archoil 6900-P do seem to help keeping my Direct injection Engine cleaner.
ASTA 3000 was also a very good additive but I cannot seem to get that any more.
Hi, would you fit a vortex generator to an estate car?
Cheers
How about cutting a strip of another tire slightly larger than the one you're using? Deflate your tire and put the strip around it. So you have less contact, area with the road.
If engine has water cooled oil cooler .. then masking the oil sump to retain the engine heat wirk ... Need a temp sensor in the sump .. n nit to criss the sump oil temp beyond 120 deg C
there are some morons in hare, who don't know anything about cars. i am telling you that this guy and his channel is brilliant, and such a gem 💎 for people to learn about the cars 🔥🤘
a undertray work good.
Undertray? What’s that?
Good tips 👍
HHO is the biggest con since fuel magnets.
I run biofuel AC stag propane kit, economy is up 20-25% global average.
Second, liqui moly diesel purge, 2 hours fast idle to consume 1 gallon of cleaner saw economy jump from 42 to 48mpg
Lastly, 4 wheel tracking alignment, I saw 3mpg improvement.
Currently driving tdv6 xf, averages 900 miles a tank, over 67mpg average, 88 on a run, 45 around town.
Don’t forget mooneyes
Liquimoly petrol injector cleaner works too (on petrol engines obviously)
Another issue that hasn’t been addressed directly: rotational mass.
Reducing weight helps fuel economy, and reducing rotating weight really helps improve fuel economy.
How do you do it? Get smaller rims. If your car has 17” rims, try downsizing to 16” rims. Of course that means new tires as well. Also, check first to see if the smaller rim will fit over the front brakes.
Smaller rims do hurt in the looks department, though. Bigger rims always look better…….to a point.
if you put 17 inch wheels 205/45r17 from 185/60r15 but the 15's being steel rims and the 17's being super lightweight alloy rims, would you save fuel or worsen the economy?
Do 195/55r15 on 7inch aluminum wheels. You get lighter weight and better handling. Konig helium wheels are cheap.
Hot air induction works .. especially on petrol + part thrittle .. reduces pumping losses abd thermal losses ..
According to this video my petrol car is an exception to the rule that improved performance by an ECU remap would decrease fuel economy. But not to my surprise really since my Volvo has a 2.5 liter engine with a low pressure turbo. The new setup of the ECU did not aim at max increase of power but focused mainly on extra torque. Thus making it a bit quicker but most and for all accelerate with so much more ease and joy. The sound is temporarily improved as a result of a broken cat and removed central muffler 😬
Will vodka work for unleaded?
Only if 100 proof or better!
I was a believer in pricely fuel and oil additives...
Untill a 40years of experianced and highly skooled mecanic made me understand this:
By the time the car seems to benefit from them it is actualy too late.
What it means is that you are using the wrong fuel and/or oil.
Infact, adding additives to a car that runs on the perfect chemistry mix does more damage than good
@@gertverhoeven The key thing here is the car running on perfect chemistry. Pump gas is not perfect and lacks the detergents needed to keep these deposits from forming. If you use a cleaner as maintenance, it will help get the car closer to the perfect chemistry. It’s impossible to find what’s perfect but it’s definitely not what they sell at the pump.
Tires make a big difference.
Try some different fuel stations as some vehicles mileage can vary 10% or more from station to station.
Obviously, slow down if you really want to get better fuel mileage.
I had a Cummins diesel, which would get slightly better mileage when I added 2 stroke oil to my fuel.
Econo Kit steam injection, petrol or diesel... Has anyone tried a kit?
This is good stuff
Ac high pressure line cooling with copper heat sinks works .. so as ac low pressure insilating with quality insukation
One way alternatir clutch / freewheel alternatir pulley works ....
nice
Removing or not using the AC only works if you're NOT going to open the windows instead, otherwise the extra air drag will waste more fuel than you saved by not having the AC on (over about 50 mph, and depends how much you open the windows), anyway, who would to roast inside their car on a hot day?😛
Solar/ electric heating of block and coolant work ..
They claim that opening the windows uses more horsepower at normal highway speeds than the air conditioner unit users.
Good tip, especially if the aircon is on recirculate where it is maintaining a cool temp rather than reduce warm external air all the time. In my experience speeds of around 40mph with the window open cause extra drag and reduce fuel economy.
1:20 into the video and still havent given me a single suggestion pls get to the point
Heated fuel works .. heat it with coolant ... More automisation .. better mixture .. lesser wastage on cylinder walls ...
Higher octane fuel is more resistant to pr-ignition caused higher compression. Octane rating has nothing to do with the amount of energy per unit of fuel.
ie; The higher your compression ratio; the higher the octane rating of the fuel has to be to avoid igniting prematurely due to the higher temperature caused by the higher compression.
Does your ECU change/increase your compression ratio somehow?
HHO is a tech that will run a car but is more expensive due to electric demand.
Adding capacitor to thrittle pedal signal smoothens the input vslue ..and diesnot allow the ecu to shift in to power mode
Coolant reservoir masking with insulator wirjs .. preserves hot coolant temp fir the next start n warns up the engine faster
Get a motorcycle
I was with you this entire video up until the end where you set the term snake oil. I generally don't listen to people who use that term. It means the person using the term either doesn't know what they're talking about and don't want to put time to learn or they're just low intelligence.
Perhaps one of us is missing something here. If it's me please explain, but the definition of the term "snake oil" has moved on and evolved in language from the origins of fake health remedies to become an expansive term expressing false marketing, raising false hopes or deceptive products that don't do what they claim.
Adding hydrogen works , using it for last 15 plus years ... Need to play around ecu to get best out if it .. and yes .. am an automobile engineer ,wirking with an auto giant , in powertrain division , engine testing on validation abd proving dynamometers ..fir 12 years ... 6 hours per day ...
No, it doesn't.
How would that work? First you turn fuel into electricity, than electricity to hydrogen, which you than burn with fuel. Energy gets lost in those conversion. Physics can't be beaten.
The test for HOH is simple: If you get more mileage after the mod it works.
The problem is usually the ECU wants to dump in more fuel to compensate for extra oxygen coming in via the HOH (O2 & H2).
Seen some HOH units that work but most don't.
It helps if your HOH electrolysis unit is efficient and doesn't require too much power to run.
:-)
Impossible to listen too much twang and cockney accent
Whilst I try to please everyone I'm afraid you'll just have to put up with regional accents as UA-cam is international and I am from Southern UK so if you can't follow my voice or don't like the accent (or even if people take exception to my face or hair style) then just move along. I certainly won't be trying to adopt another regional accent such as I assume your local southern Australian (Geelong Melbourne) dialect.
Lol
If you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all.