PCD cutter / endmill - test cut 6082 aluminium with diy cnc router
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video i test a Chinese pcd cutter / endmill. pcd = polycrystaline Diamond. They are being made for non ferrous metals like aluminium but also composite materials. I bought this cutter this spring for ~27usd, did only find youtube videos with pcd cutters cutting composite materials back then. So I ordered one, qince it would be fun to test, also thought it would be a good youtube video. I use a brand new solid carbide 10mm endmill from sandvik to have something to compare to. that one I bought for ~ 22 bucks. Did cut very good aswell.
Status update on the vertical mill, I forgot to get a key on my spindle shaft pulley. Major slipping. Can't mill steel at any respectable speeds due to lack torque transfer. Keys should get here this week along with a new 10mmx10mm shaft coupler for my z-axis motor and ballscrew. That thing has been slipping, so I'm pretty sure I need a better one rated for more torque (peak torque being around 2Nm while moving, 4Nm in holding torque approximately). I've been losing Z position in the ops, with the Z-0 being higher than it should be once the machine stops, meaning it does not like the resistance of ramping or plunging into the material. Glad you have been getting a lot of awesome gear dude! I try to leave likes and comments on here when I can :)
I have no key for my spindle pulley. Just tightend it as hard as I could. But only got 550w motor. How strong is yours. Thx for commenting 😀
@@thechipwelder1253 I have a 1.8KW motor lol. The motor was running around 2100 RPM at the time (multiply by 1.6x and you get the spindle pulley rotation). It killed my 3/8" carbide endmill from All Industrial. :( Thankfully I was wearing a full face shield as a precaution lol. The pulley only has two set screws, one of which is positioned at the key slot area (I got GT3 15mm pulleys from Misumi with built-in JIS standard keyways), so there is only one set screw tightened against the spindle shaft. :( With the 8mm key though in that slot, which is probably on your green spindle as well as mine, the pulley will have both set screws and the key to keep it in place just fine. After replacing the Z coupler and putting in the key, I will probably reprint my Spindle motor mount since the print wasn't great and it's in PLA. The motor does get toasty after a while, so I doubt PLA likes that XD. PETG will likely fair better, and then steel once I redesign the spindle mount assembly entirely and make it with the current design lol.
😀 1.8Kw that almost 4 times stronger than mine. Understand u need a key for that one. Thx for commenting man 🙂😀
TheChipWelder You are welcome! Keep making awesome content.
It will be neat to see your listing for the stuff you are going to make. Thank you for the video.
Hello here is some of the stuff I plan to make: edc titanium / carbon fiber wallet, folding knife with g10 / titanium /carbon fiber handle, 5 axis dovetail vice, cnc a diy drone, underwater camera housing, simple 4th + 5th axis for the router, turret with rotating tools and through coolant tools for emcoturn lathe, enclosure for lathe, through coolant power drawbar for minimill, diy bandsaw, machinist jack, slitting saw arbours, adjustable feet for minimill, new spindle mount for minimill, electric cabinett + panel for minimill, horisontal spindle for the minimill, a toolgrinder, a hydralic press. A simple minilathe with dovetail ways. Also I have the bt30 atc spindle, but than one will be used for a new machine. So when I am done with the machines I have, and made some of the projects above. I will have to sell some machines to make place for a 5 axis vmc.
my machine is pretty rigid with the steel gantry and flat linear 12mm rails.. YOUR machine is basically industrial I can hear the difference.
Thx for commenting. Gauntry sides and table for it is currently the weakest link. I have now found a nice cast iron stand for the router with a 40 mm steel plate to bolt the router down to. Think that will be a nice upgrade from the ikea table I use. 😀
Is it just me or do you need to tram the spindle. I would think angle it forward a fraction since it looks like the back is a fraction deeper than the front. It could just be how it appears in the video though.
Another beautiful surface finish👍
Keep up the great work man👍
Thx for commenting man :)
very good video..thanks for your time
Thanks man!
Hey what happened? No more new videos? Come back we miss you!
Very nice man! I'm super jealous now lol
HI man, when you cut aluminium, use a one flute endmill. And i love your video.
you should test other materials like Hardeed steel, SS 304, and probably TI. to see what you can do whit that machine.
Currently test cutting 304 stainless. Think I will upload youtube video about ut. Plan to mill hardend steel and titanium grade 5 also. It will be videos about it. Welcome to subscribe and thx for commenting :)
The machine is very fast, is it still on the original Chinese 6040 ball screws?
Yes, not optimal but it works. I do not experience the cheap ballscrews as a limiting factor for me. The ball bearing arrangement is however no good. Still using the standard 6040 gauntry sides. Need to to come up with something better.when I have time, someday.. 🙂
The limit on the stock 6040 is the controller box. It's impossible to rapid at the rate he's running with a stock 24v 6040 cnc. With a power supply, Gecko 540 and stepper motor upgrade I was able to get about 140 inches per minute on a stock 6040 chassis and ballscrew.
@@rickcperry He got a 6040 frame only (heavily modified at this point) and is using his own closed loop steppers and NVEC controller I believe
TheChipWelder i was considering putting the cheap Chinese ball screws on my rf30. Do we have to grease the bearings? Have you greased yours on your 6040?
You should test the DLC endmills from Aliexpress, gives a very good surface aswell, i have tested them on my last parts, and have now ordered some more
Also, they are decent cheap, i have both 6mm and 8mm of it, but i have only used the DLC endmill as a finisher (light cuts for best finish) i have ran it at 8000 rpm and 1000 mm/min, giving me very nice surface
Thx for commenting. I dont even know what a DLC endmill is but I will look it up. 😀
@@thechipwelder1253 Also a diamond coating
How can you fix the chatter in the surface finish?
I dont know, i think finish is very good. I never used a real cnc so I dont know really how good surface finish one can get. But perhaps using compressed air or flood coolant to evakuate chips better might help.
Also, I have the router on a ikea kitchen table which moves around alot. I have now bought a cast iron stand for it, with a 40mm thick steel plate. That might make the surface finish better aswell
TheChipWelder yeah ok, there is a chatter in the surface finish, I reckon that your rpm is too high, try around 10k rpm with 1200mm/min finish at 0.1mm
@@thechipwelder1253 HI, adjust the spindel head, the angular is not paralell with the Y-axes.
Could be vibrations from the machine, in which case you can add dampening. Can also be that you're hitting the resonant frequency of the bit, like how playing a certain note can make another guitar string vibrate. In that case, slowing down OR speeding up can help.
👏👏👏👏
Have you ever seen the amana tool rc 3400? It would be so sweet to have a face mill but man it's like 200 bucks
what website did you use to buy the pcd? I have seen some cheap china tools and they are not that bad some even really good and for almost nothing compared to industry brands. Would be fun to test out something like this in the machines where I work.
Hello I bought this one on ebay. Do you want link? Most of the pcd cutters on ebay are for composite materials. Dont really now what the difference is, but the seller I bought it from one could chose if one wanted it to be for composite or aluminium.
@@thechipwelder1253 I'd like the link; my eBay searches only return items that cost similar to well-used cars :) Best wishes
I know this is 3 years old, but I'd like the link too, if they're still selling these on ebay