TUbliss review: how to go tubeless with your dual sport/adventure bike︱Cross Training Adventure
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- crosstrainingenduro.com How to go tubeless on a wide variety of dual sport and light adventure bikes with TUbliss. Who hates punctures? I can't stand them. I have always been jealous of riders with cast wheels and those three minute puncture repairs using tyre plugs. Or BMW riders with those fancy wheels where the spokes go into the outer rim and allow tubeless tyres. Welcome to Cross Training Adventure, we are into all things dual sport and adventure on the east coast of Australia. I finally fitted the TUbliss system to my DR650 and it means way less potential headaches with punctures. I no longer carry spare tubes, tyre irons and patches. Just tyre plugs and that weird tool for pushing them in. Now before I continue, I must state that TUbliss is not DOT approved for legal road riding in the USA. Plenty of riders use TUbliss regardless, but there's always the possibility a cop knows what TUbliss is and can identify it on your motorbike. And thinks you should be fined. How does TUbliss work? Check out our reviews of various adventure bikes and dual sport bikes. There is an inner tube inflated to 100psi. If you like dual sport riding in Australia then you might like our adventure riding vids. This pushes the red plastic cover against your tyre bead and anchors it very securely to the rim. In effect you now have a tubeless tyre. What are the advantages? Less punctures. A lot of punctures occur when the tube is 'pinched' against the rim. This can no longer happen. Punctures are incredibly easy to fix. Leave the wheel on. Just insert a tyre plug. Also, if you have tyres with a very stiff sidewall, you don't even need to fix the puncture immediately. The TUbliss system holds the tyres so firmly it is like having 4psi air pressure. If you are in a tough situation you can still ride the motorbike through then fix the puncture. Super low air pressures. Riding in mud? Trying to get up a slippery incline? You can reduce your air pressure dramatically to improve traction... even down to zero psi. Your rims have better protection. TUbliss holds your tyres so firmly that there's less chance of dinging your rims. Do you usually run heavy duty or ultra heavy duty tubes to minimise punctures? TUbliss is lighter than both of these. Also, once you learn the technique you will find tyre changes are easier because you don't have to mess around with a pesky inner tube. Which motorbike models suit the TUbliss system? Keen on adventure riding in Australia? Check out our vids. It's designed to suit the narrow rims of your typical dual sport, motocross or enduro motorbike. 18” Tubliss for 18” x (1.85”-2.15”) rims, 21” Tubliss for 21” x 1.60 rims, 19” Tubliss for 19” x (1.85”-2.15”) rims. It will be the same as a sudden tube deflation from a normal puncture. You would need tyre irons, new tubes and an air pump capable of achieving 100psi air pressure. Have you tried the TUbliss system? What was your experience? Keen to hear your thoughts, let us know in the comments. Unfortunately there is currently no 17 inch rear wheel system. Eventually I saw a custom 18" inch rear wheel for sale and bought it. So I can not only fit the TUbliss system but access a much wider range of tyres. If you have a KLR650 or an XR650L this is well worth looking into. So what are the potential drawbacks of TUbliss? It's incredibly reliable if you follow the instructions. So you can't fit TUbliss to the rear wheel of bikes like the KLR650, DR650. What about motorbikes like the KTM 690 or Husqvarna 701? These actually have a 2.5 inch wide rear rim which is just outside of the specifications for TUbliss. However, if your rear tyre bead is at least 11mm thick here then apparently the TUbliss system will work.I have a DR650 and I really wanted to fit TUbliss. Most of the riders in our enduro group have been using it for the past seven years without problems. This has never happened to us but apparently it goes with a bang! Can the high pressure tube be punctured? A very sharp pointed rock could pierce the tyre, the red plastic cover and then the inner tube. It can happen with enduro motorbikes in very rocky terrain. But I think your average dual sport or adventure motorbike will not be in that sort of terrain. How would you fix it a blown inner high pressure tube? This is one of our three channels, there's also a Cross Training Trials channel, and a Cross Training Enduro channel. All three are equally dodgy. So the Cross Training Adventure focus is just get out there and have fun on two wheels. Cross Training Adventure actively avoids sponsorship. We like doing seriously critical reviews. So subscribe. Or don't subscribe to our Cross Training Adventure riding channel. The main thing is get out and ride while you can with dual sport riding or Adventure riding in Australia, Canada, Vietnam, Romania and beyond! So check out Cross Training Adventure.
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CORRECTION: The Honda XR650L does have an 18 inch rear wheel. I stated incorrectly it was a 17 inch wheel.
Our long term TUbliss review: multiple riders over seven years ua-cam.com/video/SaPteR8PtZ0/v-deo.html
Welcome to our dodgy channel! In this age of social media influencers making money out of promoting crap, we are more critical of the manfufacturers than most. Check out our vids below...
Adventure bike & product reviews bit.ly/3DpEKxk
Motorbike safety & protective gear bit.ly/3Dpb438
Motorbike setup bit.ly/3Dpb6rM
DR650 project series bit.ly/3XOsPRK
And finally our most popular videos...
Best lightweight adventure bikes? ua-cam.com/video/lsorI76PBYc/v-deo.html
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The midlife crisis solution! ua-cam.com/video/LRQyEBY5YjQ/v-deo.html
Early XR600R had 17 rears. That could be what you were thinking of.
I’m about to install Tubliss system and wondered what puncture plugs people use. Im leaning toward dynaplug as i use it on the MTB. Any thoughts appreciated
NX650 Dominator has 17', so easy to mix...
8 years and 55000km on the WR250R, no failures, no punctures.
Best dualsport I ever had and I had close to all of 'em!!
A friend of mine lent me a rear wheel with tubliss. I could never be convinced to adopt it. It happened to me more than once that I hammered a dent rim which would mean not only not working any more with tubliss or tubeless, but being stuck in the middle of nowhere with a flat tyre that can't be fixed if not carrying a tube. Tubliss do wear out, there are some known issues. Tubliss pressure must be checked before each ride. Also mousse did not convince me, due to its heavy feel and short life.
On a big multi-day ride or very remote areas I'd be carrying a spare tube and irons for backup... or at least a spare TUbliss high pressure innner tube! It is always a good ide to check pressure before every ride. But years ago I remember not checking for three months! When I finally remembered it only had 50psi but remarkably was still holding. A bit dumb not to check but it's good to know it held up at only half the correct pressure.
Bah, you dont like new stuff. Tubliss works great IF you can deal with putting air in it.
If you cant than yeah, forget it. Tubed tires need psi checked every ride, so..............yeah.
I got way too many flats on my DR. Like WAY. Got to where I cringed about it.
Now Im on the mighty 690 and I just put tubliss on the rear. It sealed up great.
I ran it for years on my 300 trail riding and it IS the bomb.
The newest version of tubliss is real heavy duty, much beefier outer and a thicker inner bladder.
I would carry spare tubes and be ready to switch to them, just in case shit happens. That way it wont.
One of the real benefits of using Tubliss on a dual sport is that it turns marginal 50/50 tires like the Shinko 244 and the Kenda K270 into decent off road tires because you can run them at much lower pressures. These tires become fairly impressive off road with 14psi in the front and 10psi in the rear.
So true. On our dirt bikes even inappropriate or worn knobbies still hook up well in most gnarly terrain when we run 2 to 4 psi.
Been running tubliss last 5 years on my ktm 690 and honda crf 460x. Tires did take a lot of counter weight to balance.
No issues at all.
Only drawback, you have to check the inner tube at least bi monthly as they will slowly leak from 100 psi to 70-80 psi every couple of weeks.
Have run 1-2 psi frequently in our deep michigan sand.
Im running MOTOZ tractionators front and rear on KTM.
The good news is the pressure drops very slowly after that. I completely forgot to check mine for three months and it was still 50psi and thankfully still working. I check every ride now. We tend to run really low pressures... about 2 to 3 psi and occasionally the tyre carcass can slowly rub through the red plastic. Slime provides enough lubricant to stop this happening so I'd highly recommend adding some.
No problem with slow leaks? Fitted Motoz Rallz to the DR650. The rear is fine, but the front just won't stop leaking. Every four hours I need to top up the pressure... despite coating the bead with Slime first. Today I recoated the bead with heaps of Slime. Air bubbles everywhere with 25psi. I've redone it but only but 5psi in briefly then let it out again in case it's the air pressure preventing the Slime from making a seal. I see a few riders say Motoz tyres can be hard to get a good seal...
I also ride in Michigan, TC area. I started riding dirtbikes this summer. My off road experience has been sport quad and 3 wheeler. Needless to say, it has been a huge learning curve because of the sand. I thought I would be able to go anywhere with this dirtbike.... Lol, not so much.
Currently I am running a cheap 110/100 - 18 tire with tube at about 13psi. Trying to ride stretches of heavy sand is not enjoyable at all.
I am seriously contemplating this tubliss system, can you confirm if it makes riding the sand easier and more stable?
@@WickedWood
Ya, definitely go with tubliss. With this u can air way down. For sand around St Helen, i’ll run 3-4 lbs front and 4-5 rear. Im riding a ktm690. So its heavy, but once your up on plain, it’s fairly easy riding. Just remember to let the bike work under you, don’t squeeze bike with ur legs, or be too stiff armed on the handle bars. You’ll figure out how much force to use so handle bars won’t get ripped out of your hands. And when in doubt, grab a handful of throttle. That will straighten you out. And if u wipe out, which you will, its a real soft landing in the deep sand.
I too started on 3 wheelers, still have my 85 honda 350x love it, still runs great after all these years.
Love tubliss. Ran a bit of slime with it as well and worked great for years.
Ran them for years on my enduro bikes. Punctured the inner tube once with a nail straight through the tyre and red inner tire. Inner tube are weak around the base of valve. Had several split. Running under 10 psi on hard pack is a bit wobbly. Ran them for over 10 years. Great product. Wish they made them for the T7. Always ran Slime in them to stop the slow leak and punctures
I've turned my XR400 into a light adventure setup. I run tubliss with no issues
Interesting, I might need to see about getting them for my WR250R - thanks for sharing mate!
👍 For anyone who hates roadside puncture repairs these are great. I do know a handful of guys who actually seem to enjoy popping tyres off rims and can do it really quickly. So carrying tubes and tyre irons will always suit them.
so great to meet you out on the tracks on Saturday Barry , brenno and Jamie on the other dr ?? I coulda chatted with yall day . not every day one runs into a very famous dodgy UA-camr 🤩. after lots of back and forth and procrastination I'm going to give the tubliss system a run on my DR because why not 😁 , just ordered some nice new DID LTX rims with HAAN Cush hub to suit . as for tyres who knows , trail wings @ 4 psi would be the obvious choice 🤭. BTW that pivot turn you did when you left was very, very impressive... the height of that front wheel ... the perfect 180 turn ... on a DR ...made my day mate . now I'm even more revved up to mod this beast and lay down some serious km. happy adventuring
Sounds like a plan, Benny. 👍 We always brush some Slime on the bead and rims so the TUbliss slides on easier. And helps get that all important seal on the bead.... still not quite there with the pivot turns on the DR650 lol. I've only been trying the past few rides as we get into some snotty terrain sometimes where a pivot turn can be very handy!
Ive been running TuBliss for a few years now on the enduro bikes and absolute love it.
Ive converted the front wheel over to tubliss on my DR 650 .
It would be awesome to convert the rear wheel to an 18"
Warp 9 do a reasonably priced 18 inch rear, Glenn. I reckon it would be pretty easy to get at least 2/3 of your money back if you eventually sold it separately from the bike. Otherwise the cush drive hub from the old DR350 Suzuki is a good fit.
I've seen one failure of the inner high pressure tube. Of note, it was a 3 yr old installation that was not done properly on a 690. The installer failed to de-bur the new hole for the high pressure valve stem, and it eventually chewed through. A trailside change was nearly impossible. We finally had to tear out the red casing and install a regular tube.
Yep, out of six riders in our group there have only been two failures in seven years. One was as you mentioned, poor installation. The second was in an actual enduro race and a very sharp pointed rock went through the tyre and red plastic liner. But the rider knew mousses are the right option if you are going to be at race pace through sharp rocks.
For the most part i've been liking the tubliss system. I stopped running on the front due to a slow leak I couldn't pinpoint and never got around to reinstalling the tubliss in the front. Having it on the rear makes a lot of sense to me for a few reasons: Rear wheel tends to be a lot more work to get on and off (and same with the tire), and it seems that in my experience, most punctures have been on the rear wheel.
If I only fitted one I'd do the rear as well. With a heavy duty tube in the front you can often manage to limp your way back to base if the bike isn't too heavy. I've never had issues with slow leaks until now... I simply can't get this Motoz Rallz front to seal properly. Another viewer said he's had the same problem with Rallz.
I have Tubliss on a dual sport Beta 2 stroke 300rr it works fantastic. 8psi all day off road and 20 psi on the street with 70/30tires
We do a lot of slow technical riding so 2 to 4 psi makes for amazing traction. Then 6+ for normal enduro riding.
I just had one fail on me in France - I didn't have tyre irons or spare tubes, it was a nightmare to sort out. Even worse was that happened at 6pm on a Saturday, no bike shops open till the Tuesday morning 😒 Yes, they're a great system and I'll keep using them, but I'll be carrying levers and spare tubes from now on.
Bummer. Yes it can be a mess when the inner tube fails. For dirt riding, it's only happened twice in six years with our group. They just limped back to the cars. But adventure riding? I have TUbliss on my DR650 and I carry tyre irons and ordinary tubes just in case the system fails and I'm a long way from home.
I’ve been running tubliss front and rear for the last 7 years and once I’ve got used to tyre changes and following the instructions to the letter I’ve not had problems since. Although I replaced a high pressure tube recently and it burst just after standing and admiring my handy work ! I reckon it may have been faulty cos it went right next to the valve so it may have had a weak spot. I’ve also replaced the outer red tube as it started to deform where the rim lock sits. My findings would recommend not to tighten to the recommended torque as it compresses the red tyre a lot resulting in a deformed red tyre.
Certainly recommend
Yep, it seems following the instructions is really the key Peter. I suspect those who report issues usually have just missed something. Bummer about that high pressure tube failure!
Got them for my Berg 570. Brilliant
The mighty Berg! So many good memories of mine, Rob. If I had lots of money I would love to have kept it permanently. A real shame KTM didn't continue it or sell of the rights to make them to a mob like AJP or SWM.
I had major problems with Tubliss on my 690 Enduro - got in trouble at a KTM rally and my buddy had to cut them out and put in a tube. My front one leaks and I have to stop during rides and inflate the core bladder and the main chamber a couple times a ride. So annoying. I then tried bib mousse and my life is perfect. Mousse is harder to put on but are absolutely zero maintenance, checking, or problems. I highly recommend putting mousse everywhere.
I'd suspect the tyre wall wasn't thick enough on the rear, Chad? TUbliss say to only use it with 2.15" rear rims but it seems many 690 owners fit it anyway and with success if that tyre wall is thick enough. Bummer about the leak on the front. I've had that happen twice in seven years but just put a bit of Slime in which fixed the seal. Did this happen with installing used tyres? TUbliss always say to fit new tyres only as there can be trouble with sealing otherwise. Out of interest, how many miles do you get out of a mousse on the rear with the 690? Usually nobody uses them for dual sport or adv because they don't last...
I would use the tubliss system on the 690 but my big concern is not the police writing me up but rather insurance companies that are always looking for a reason to abandon their clients for the smallest infraction. A non DOT system is sure to leave you with your pants down in the event of an accident whether it is your fault or not.
True, Rod. But I think that would still rely on an insurance assessor (or a cop filling out a report) actually being able to identify what it is.
When I had a motorcycle accident many years ago the insurance company sent my bike to the local motorcycle garage for a full evaluation, luckily there was no issue as bike was totally stock.
@@iangriffiths9930 Yes that is my concern, the police really do not know all the ins and outs of what is DOT and what is not, but the insurance company will send the aftermath to an expert and anything that they can use to get out of a payment even if it was not a contributing factor they will use it.
@@RodNeufeld Yes have worked in insurance and you could be picked up on this. Thanks Rod good point. But would not stop me from using the system that could get me out of trouble. And that's what I would say in court if they did not pay out.
I've been using the tubeless system for some years now and here is the drawback that I have come across. A low pressure air gauge such as one you can get from Rocky mountain ATV is quite valuable. However, if you in a moment of inattention, check the high pressure valve with your low pressure gauge, it will not survive....
Other than that it's all good.
Ha ha. Same here.
Only been running my tubliss on my 450 but have not had a flat since 2018 since i have been using them and traction is insane
Love the traction! Last ride we did some enduro tracks and I dropped the air down to 15psi on the DR650. I would never go that low with tubes because of the tendency to ding the rims and tyre creep even with rim locks installed.
Had the first versions on a CRF250X back around 2010, valves used to come off the tubes until they fixed them. Moved them to a 2012 EXC300 and finally killed the rear one and went back to tubes for awhile, got some more on sale $300nzd for front/rear. Did around 200hrs on them then moved them to a 2020 EXC150 and have another 200hrs on them with 1 flat tube from low air and smashing a big root.
Have a rear Tubliss to go in my 701 when the tire turns up and still have the front v1 in storage at the other end of NZ or maybe just buy a new one for the front.
Torpedo 7 were doing some great prices a few years back, a lot of Aussies were accessing them.
Yep that's where they came from, pitty they got out of motorcycle gear.
I did the tape trick on my klr for ease of repair too.. Only did the front so far, 1200 miles only, but I like it.. I cannot run low psi though, but am ok with that
I've been using them for years, on and offroad. They're great for all the reasons you described, especially the light toolkit and peace of mind with very low PSI. It's easy to have those slow leaks you described which can be fixed with a bit of fiddling. You'll need to rebalance the wheel after fitting them. The high pressure tube also leaks slowly but it's never lost its seal.
Yep, a bit of Slime usually gets the perfect seal if you have a slow leak.
I put the set up on my wr250 over the winter, and have started riding them. Saved my bacon once already, got a nasty cut on my sidewall, and they made it so I could still ride home. I am also keen to see the difference being able to air down so far goes as far as making up for the traction loss of running dot rated tires vs a proper knobby. Only downside I've had to deal with so far, is I needed about 3 ounces of wheel weights opposite the valve stems on the front wheel to keep it from hopping and bouncing on the main roads.
I would love to see a light version of the original kit were the big rim lock would be trimmed down. Personally, I usually need around 4oz to balance my wheel.
If they could remove 2 or 3 onces, it will be much easier to balance and it will save close to a pound of rotational mass when you add front and rear
@Cedric Boivin Absolutely, I was actually surprised I didn't get any problems from the back, as in theory the rimlock is larger, but I guess the greater mass of the rear tire makes the imbalance just a drop in the bucket, as well as its the weight is a little further in towards the hub with it being the smaller rim.
How low can you go? It depends on your your weight, the bike's weight, and how stiff the tyre carcass is, Nathan. You can definitely go to 0psi if you can't get enough traction in mud or a loose hill climb. But with any speed the bike will be squirming around. Enduro bikes? Our group regularly run 2 to 4psi for our hard enduro trails. Not great at speed, but incredible traction in the gnarly stuff!
@Cross Training Adventure I definitely felt it squirming around when I had the puncture, the tire I run is a pretty stiff carcass (already got my bike street inspected for the year, so I'll be switching to a proper knobby soon) but for my most recent dirt ride I ran 3psi front and rear, felt great for what I was doing.
OK, I'm chiming in after 5 years of using TuBliss in Africa on the XR650R in rocks and thorns. Everything you've said is right, but: You can absolutely puncture the little innertube with a long enough thorn... (ask me... how I know...). I have given up using TuBliss on the front because of this (shorter distance from outer tube to inner bladder... we have long thorns). On rear though, it has saved me hours of trailside faffing. Just pull out the fixer and in 5 min it's done. I carry CO2 cartridges now and it's really smooth. Sadly, many of my punctures are actual cuts in the tyre which means using 3+ bacon strips to plug. I've found putting a massive cable tie (the kind the US cops like to hold prisoners with) around the whole tyre and rim will hold the bacon strips in place indefinitely. Also, buy and carry with you a high pressure pump that goes over 100psi so you can keep that inner bladder up on long rides. A few days and you might find it at 80psi... will that matter? I don't want to find out.
Also, I still carry tubes for both front and rear because I don't trust the bloody things, even after 5 years.
Very good point about the thorns. I think I did mention that in our TUbliss review in an enduro context, along with sharp pointed rocks. 80psi is definitely not an issue in my experience for the high pressure tube. I was very slack once and didn't check for months, it got down to 50psi and was still holding the tyre firmly. But obviously it's best to do the regular check and stay near 100!
No problems in 7 years. I don't mind the small leak with some tires, it's even beneficial - now I check the pressure before every ride. Don't forget to balance the wheel after fitting the first time. Way better than HD tubes and cheap mousses.
Interestingly I had massive issues with leaks fitting a front Motoz Adventure. Three times we popped the tyre off the bead and slathered it with Slime, and heaps inside as well. But wet the tyre and you could air bubbles along the whole rim. It finally seems to be staying up now. I've heard one other case where I rider couldn't get Motoz tyres to seal...
@@crosstrainingadventure Does the Motoz Adventure have stiffer bead compared to other tires?
I've had a set on my 22 500 EXC-F since new and they have be excellent. In fact, I converted a riding buddy and his 300XC-W to Tubliss when he saw me tractor up a difficult section with ease whereas he spun out and had to dismount to get going again. Biggest difference was I was running 6psi and he still had to be above 10psi to prevent flats. The only "issue" I had was that they initially had a slow leak in the low pressure section which made me add air before every ride until I added some tubeless sealant; now it's rock solid. I think this can be attributed to tire type and how clean you get things before installation but I haven't seen any one thing be the main cause. The fix is simple enough so I'm not sweating it, plus if I have any really small punctures the sealant should help keep me going. If you switch to Tubliss, do yourself a favor and pickup the Topeak Smartgauge D2 for your pack. It's super small and can read up to 250psi so you don't have to worry about blowing up a regular car tire gauge when you're checking the high pressure side.
I usually put a bit of Slime in to fix any slow leaks. Also we tend to run really low pressures... about 2 to 3 psi and occasionally the tyre carcass can slowly rub through the red plastic. Slime provides enough lubricant to stop this happening.
Update: actually I seem to be having issues with a Motoz Rallz front despite using Slime. The rear is fine, but the front just won't stop leaking. Every four hours I need to top up the pressure... despite coating the bead with Slime first. Today I recoated the bead with heaps of Slime. Air bubbles everywhere with 25psi. I've redone it but only but 5psi in briefly then let it out again in case it's the air pressure preventing the Slime from making a seal. 😢
@@crosstrainingadventure This is year later so you would have fixed this problem. But reading and watching as much as I can on this before fitting them to my DR650 I can think of 2 things that may help people reading this.1/ The Motoz tires some times have little rubber hairs around the bead right where it sits on the rim.Their technical name is vent spews but they can also be referred to as sprue nubs, tyre nibs. Removing these if they are there will help get a good seal. 2/ The other tip I have seen a few people use slime or some thing like it when putting the Tubliss kit in then blow both tubes up to seat it all to gather. Then let the air out add some slime and before you put the air pressure back in drop the wheel on the floor as you rotate it for a minute or two. So as the tyre bounces it works the slime in and around. Then inflate both chambers as normal. 3/ And some times you just have to pull it all apart clean it all and start from the beginning not good. Thanks for you videos.
Over five years using TuBliss here. I have not had a failure once, the only time I've ran into issues was due to poor installation or not following the instructions. Plenty of lube (ArmorAll) on the liner always helps, and some good quality tyre spoons like Motion Pro greatly reduces the chance of pinching the inner tube. Inner tubes are only ~$20 anyway, so I usually carry a spare 21" & 18" when I go away on long trips.
Great tips Coxy. Did you put TUbliss on the Tenere? I suspect the rear rim would be too wide but it should work on the front?
@@crosstrainingadventure Have not fitted them to the Tenere as the rear is a 17", which is a shame!
Bummer. I just bought a secondhand 18" for the DR650 so I could go TUbliss.
@@crosstrainingadventure That means one less out there for me bugger
I use to have problem with smal air leaks, but since i started adding some Tubeless sealant, it keeps the air. 😃
Same here. I usually put a bit of Slime in to fix any slow leaks. Also we tend to run really low pressures... about 2 to 3 psi and occasionally the tyre carcass can slowly rub through the red plastic. Slime provides enough lubricant to stop this happening.
Good to know I ride a 2022 KTM690 never changed a flat tyre but carry spare tubes and tools in case I have too and really I wouldn’t know what to do and for that reason I don’t go riding in the bush alone which I would love to do in case i get a flat, will now do my homework and try to convert to tubeless, but I have heard it’s not cheap
Unfortunately TUbliss isn't as cheap as it used to be, Jack. But for me it's 100% worth it when I hate puncture repairs so much lol. And it should add resale value to the bike as well.
Best modification one can make to a dual sport
It make bikes so much more reliable, durable and performant. It feels like cheating when you ride with tube owner
I converted to Tubliss on my DRZ last year, then after one ride on my new 500XCFW, I switched it over immediately.
I hadn't considered using them on my DR650, but now...🤔
Already have an 18" rear wheel. Probably wouldn't take as much weight to balance vs. a conventional rim lock.
The only thing to watch for it getting a suitable tyre if it's a 2.5 inch rim, Tim. As per the vid, you want to certain thickness to the bead to ensure you don't have issues.
My normal tyre shop won't install Tubliss, they have STRONG feelings about this! 😅 I wonder if anyone knows a shop in Melbourne that will do it? Thanks!
NomOusse Pro 18×2.50″ Tubeless Kit could be worth a look for 690/701
Las Vegas Romaniac won't use them beacause of cactii needles. Like you say, you'd have to know the limitations.
People use HD tubes on the front of heavier ADV bikes to avoid pinch flats.
Absolutely, Chris. While TUbliss is great for my applications, there are definitely scenarios where you are better off with mousses. We've done a vid on the enduro channel listing all the pros and cons of each.
It is very common to cut a tire when riding off road here in the USA. A tire plug won't save you when you have a cut tire. Having a spare tube in your kit is the best bet you will make it back to camp...
True. But if you have a tyre with stiff sidewalls you can still limp back to base. If it's heavier than a DR650 the rear might be riding on the rim too much though. Just as experiment I did three enduro rides on a Beta RR500 with zero psi in the TUbliss.
Been using Tubliss for 2 years now on my CRF450RL dual sport and absolutely love it. Unfortunately the bead design of the Motoz tires doesn’t work well with Tubliss and constantly slow leaks. The bead design of say Kenda tires works flawlessly and will actually hold pressure for weeks. I generally run 10psi rear and 14psi front.
For the motoz tires, is it most of their tires or some of them? I was considering getting a rear Rallyz tire, and might try tubliss again
Interesting... which MotoZ was that, Jerry? I've just put Rallz on my DR650 with no issues. Did you add some Slime when fitting? I've occasionally had leaks with various tires but just added some Slime which seemed to seal things up well. And of course it can seal minor punctures so I might not even need to do the tyre plug thing hopefully.
@@crosstrainingadventure The Slime method is quite messy so I stay away from it although I'm sure it helps with small punctures. I've always used the Armor All mounting method with great success.
@@leeroykelly781 I’ve used six different brands of tires with Tubliss and the Motoz Rallz were the worst as far as holding air. I could spray soapy water on them and watch micro bubbles leaking at the bead and rim interface. Kenda tires were the best. They would hold air for weeks. The other brands, Tusk, Pirelli, Dunlop, etc. were somewhere between the two extremes.
I think I've hit the same issue. Fitted Rallz to the DR650. The rear is fine, but the front just won't stop leaking. Every four hours I need to top up the pressure... despite coating the bead with Slime first. Today I recoated the bead with heaps of Slime. Air bubbles everywhere with 25psi. I've redone it but only but 5psi in briefly then let it out again in case it's the air pressure preventing the Slime from making a seal. 😢
On a recent trip my mate got 2 punctures right next to each other on his 790, and the plugs leaked. Fortunately Robs dirt bikes at Broken hill sorted us out - Legends.
So carry a spare tube anyway guys.
Or don’t, it’s up to you I guess 😎
Bummer. Did that include the full preparation, Rob? E.g. using the file tool to smooth out the edges of the hole and applying that goop for a good seal too? I've found this fixed all my punctures except once... no matter what I did the front knobby on my dirt bike kept leaking slowly. It would last the ride but was always pretty soft by the end lol. Carrying tubes as a backup? For a big trip or riding in remote areas I think this is always a good idea on adventure bikes. Dirt bikes you can always keep riding on zero psi. But heavier bikes are going to be riding on the rims and you really do need to get fast leaks fixed in my opinion.
Was looking to see if there were kits for bigger bikes like the Suzuki V-Strom 800DE. I Know the Aprilia Tuareg 660 has tubeless from the factory so I don't know why they would be illegal.
Maybe it's different here in Canada. 🤔
Only for the sizes mentioned in this vid. Or check with the TUbliss website.
I am considering for my 2008 KTM 450EXC r, still using tubes, rarely get flats but happens. Question is with Tubliss are they ok when you have to do a long stretch of pavement between sections of off road. Like sometimes in Baja might be over a 100 miles of going 65 mph on pavement. Sure great off road with low pressure but how about on road with PSI of say 20?
All good. Just need to balance it due to the big rim lock. And be aware of DOT legalities in the USA...
Ha! Idea: I already wrote somewhere how to fix rear tire slide by deflating nearly completely and breaking very hard on a bitumen descend. About the front tire: If it slid forward the same technique will work. If it slid backward you need to do the same in reverse. To get reverse movement you drive up, then roll back in the neutral. The movement has to be pretty fast and long, which is a bit awkward😆. I have not tried this. Pls be careful. But the front might shift easier. Not sure. So, rims locks are a waste of money😃. Tyres are sliding slowly. Just check regularly and fix the slide this way.
A few times I've fixed tyre 'creep' by putting my bike on a stand, deflate, then spin the wheels and jam the brake on suddenly. Then repeat until the valve stem is at the right angle again.
@@crosstrainingadventure Cool. This is even better. I can use a grinder to spin the wheel. A small bike would be also handy😀.
Cool! Do they make these for the KTM 390 Adventure 17" and 19" sizes?
I doubt it but all their sizes are on the website
I've got one in the 18" rear on my DR650. I went with the 2.5" rim and am using a regular tubliss without issue. The system is a wear item so its a good idea to really look at the red liner for any wear at all when changing the tire. It's also recommended that you change the high pressure tube every 1-2 years but I don't know how many people stick to that. My front wheel is drilled for tubliss but when I went to put it on the red liner cracked and sharded apart like it was hard plastic. It was a gen1 system and I have no idea how long it was on sale so with age the red liners probably dry out, best to make sure that you are getting new stock. I haven't had the time or desire to get another one for the front wheel yet.
Armor-all protectant makes for fantastic lube for the tubliss system. Not something I'd recommend for installing road biased tires that are more block than knob but anything meaner than a 70/30 Street/dirt is fair game and makes the install much easier. Maybe it will keep the red liner healthier longer as well.
None of us have ever replaced the inner tube in up to seven years of riding, Jensen. But that's on the dirt bikes so we could always limp back to base if needed. I think for adventure bikes it would make sense to replace that tube on a regular basis... maybe every second second tyre change?
There's like 40 years worth of bikes that run a 17. Not sure why they don't make that size. I've sorta looked into a new set of spokes and a new 18 rear hoop for the KLR. Not sure if spoke count can be the same to mount to the factory hub🤔 I will probably get the Tubliss for my GasGas though. Next set of tiyres
It's a real shame there isn't a 17 option. I think it's mainly the legalities... if someone got a puncture and crashed they could probably sue TUbliss even if they had disclaimers about it not being DOT approved. Might be worth looking at Warp 9? Complete 18" rear for about USD530. You'd get most of that back if sold separately from the bike years later.
@@crosstrainingadventure hmm warp9 eh. Thanks for the tip👍
Tubliss = Reliability(proper air pressure) through continual monitoring. You MUST CHECK and TOP OFF PRESSURE EVERY RIDE. I went mousse on front and back, and I am never going back.
I agree, check every ride. The good news is the pressure drops very slowly after that. I was very slack once and completely forgot to check mine for three months and it was still 50psi and thankfully still working.
Good luck finding replacement 21 inch high pressure tubes in the US. They are not available!!! Hopefully I don’t have an issue!!!!
Don't TUbliss have them in stock, Stephen? The website doesn't mention lack of stock...
www.nuetechonlinestore.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1
All the vendors I have talked to have back orders with Neutech. I think they are having issues. I will contact them directly. Thanks!!
@@SpkStephen Slavens Racing has them.
great on wr450
I have a silly question but what does DOT have to do with an Australian video?
Do they meet ADR or relative state laws?
50% of the viewers are from the USA. Some riders mistakenly believe you need DOT for Australia, even some bike mechanics believe this.
@@crosstrainingadventure
Good work with your channel and the USA audience 👍
So any way are Tubliss legal in oz?
I’ve always assumed they were as I have never heard otherwise.
But that is pretty silly on my behalf.
I do hate it though when people reference the DOT to me in Australia.
My usual response is to ask them where I would find the department of transport in Australia? as I live in Victoria
I just deal with Vicroads…
DOT? It's in Queensland. 😂 Although it's technically Department of Transport and Main Roads. I don't know if there'd be anything in our laws that prohibit TUbliss. It's hard to imagine the cops poring over legislation on the roadside trying to find out. At worst, I figure a hardline cop might issue a call from an inspection within two weeks and you'd be given a notice to put the bike to standard if it's found to not comply?
Every time I pump up the tires before a ride I find the front wheel to have lost much more pressure than the rear tire. I am 100% sure it does not have a puncture, is this normal?
High pressure or low pressure?
@@crosstrainingadventure Low, the external chamber
Hmmm. High pressure you'll drop at least 5psi simply checking the pressure... but not with the low pressure. Sounds like you might just have a very very slow leak? Did you coat the bead with Slime when fitting? If not, you can put some inside the low pressure area and it will seal up any little leaks.
I like the idea, fitted 3 sets, every one has let me down. Is it me? I do tyre pressures every day. 701, front tyre every time, including one really odd split in the high pressure tube, about 1cm long, no sign of penetration. Odd.
Hard to say. In my limited experience it seems that most problems emerge from not following the instructions precisely. And persistent leaks? These are usually fixed with applying a sealant like Slime to the beads and maybe putting some inside too. Having said that, I had my first ever persistent leak with a Motoz Adventure front tyre no matter how much Slime I used. I've redone it three times and now it's holding. Another viewer told me he's found Motoz tyres are really hard to get a seal with TUbliss and he no longer uses them.
The tube split? I've had that with a brand new normal tube right from the box. 😢 Manufacturing defect. I assume TUbliss source the best quality tubes they can but actual manufacturing would be out of their hands.
@@crosstrainingadventure blimey mate. Cheers for the detailed response. I've bought a new tube. I'll give it another go but for a long trip, I'll revert to a UHD tube. For day rides I'll try the Tubliss again. I did use slime but I did note the inner tube was dropping 20psi every day on fairly technical rocky riding on my 701 at about 22psi.
I dont get why you have to have the valves so close together. If you had them opposite then you could get a better balance on them.
But there's no weight to the high pressure valve. Or maybe the valve weighs 5 grams which is not noticeable.
I’m 4 years in the Tubliss. No problems. The only dray back that I’ve seen is that Tubliss doesn’t allow for over 10 psi pressure in the tire. I’ve run 14-16 without issue. But they say not to do that.
First I've heard about that, Jason. 10psi max? Is that in the TUbliss website somewhere?
The website says “run 0-10 psi”. I subsequently contacted them and they said they can’t recommend more that 10 PSI. It’s possible that I’ve misunderstood. If so, it would be great news that I can run all the way up to the maximum recommended by the tire company.
Interesting. When we are doing lots of road miles I've occasionally pumped mine up to 30psi with no issues. Nowadays, 25psi as I realised the DR650 manual says 25 is usually the most you need...
Found out the hard way TUbliss works best with a new tire, even rotating an existing tire even a few mm can result in a total PITA situation that a bucket of Slime will find a chore to fix.
Same here James lol. Once or twice I've put a used tyre on and needed bucket loads of Slime to ensure a good seal. I can see why the TUbliss guys recommend a new tyre each time.
I installed them on my Husky 501 a couple of months ago. NO WAY i could get the rim down inside a Pirelli Rally Desert Race tyre. Just way too stiff and wouldnt open up wide enough to get the rim down inside the tyre even with a warm tyre that had been wedged open for a couple of days and 2 people.I ended up with a good old Dunlop 606 and it took 5 min . No issues so far.
Bummer. Is the Pirelli Rally known to have really stiff sidewalls, Tim? I guess you can't go wrong with the trusty old D606 although they tend to wear out pretty quickly. I'm told the Tusk copy of the D606 is not only cheaper but lasts longer so I might try that one day.
@@crosstrainingadventure Its my first dirt bike so i have to go on what others say to an extent. People seem to rave about the Pirelli Rally tyre on the rear with the MT21 rallycross front so thats what i bought to fit. I like the 606 though and dont mind if its not super long lasting. Have a RalZ on my r1250gs and its also good but thought maybe too hard on a lite bike.
I would use it if they were roughly similar in price to tubes but for $400 for a pair its a yeah nah from me
They are getting expensive, Dadul. I figure that's AUD? Worth shopping around, occasionally I've seen them discounted and down to AUD150 each.
Just installed it on my KTM (sorry boys) 350EXC-F. I bought it abused and restored it to functional perfection (she’s still ugly) then tossed a D606 on the tublis rear so I could rim better street rubber and then air down for trails.
Great bikes, my brother had one for a while
Great system, but make sure to balance your wheels once you have it installed. The rim locks are huge and you will be bouncing up and down on the road if you don’t put counterweights on the wheels.
Which bike was that, Tim? I haven't bothered balancing the DR650 wheels yet and I can only just notice it as certain speeds if I'm looking for it. I wonder if bike weight tends to iron it out a bit?
@@crosstrainingadventure DRZ 400. For the first few days, I absolutely hated it and was going to rip it out. The bike was literally bouncing up and down on the road. We got some lead weights off eBay and put them opposite the rim lock. But it would be a lot better to do it when the wheels are actually off the bike to get them perfect. It also drastically reduced my fuel economy when the bike was bouncing around. Have you noticed your fuel economy has gone down since you installed the system ?
Haven't really checked the fuel economy, Tim. If it was that bad though, I wonder if it might have aligned with a slight imbalance already in the tyre?
@@crosstrainingadventure Yes perhaps my wheel was already out of balance and Tubliss just magnified it. But I have read a lot of guys who say they need to counterbalance wheels after installing Tubliss. There is a guy in your thread saying he had to add a lot of wheight to get the wheels right. Apart from that the system has been pretty much flawless.
@@crosstrainingadventure If you haven't balanced your front wheel with Tubliss, it's a miracle your teeth haven't rattled out. It'll take a lot of spoke weights, but the change will be miraculous. Rear less so - but not insignificant.
Was getting excited about this product until you mentioned they don't make this for 17 inch rims. C-mon so many adv and dual sport bikes use that rim size and would kill for the ability to fix punctures with nothing but tire plugs! Does the company hate money or something?? 😢
I think it's a bit more complicated than that. TUbliss works really well on standard dirt rims with a 2.15 inch width or less. But I think 17 inch wheels are usually 2.5 inch so I suspect they aren't keen as there probably would be an increase in leaks? But yeah, plenty of DR650 and KLR650 riders would love to see it I'm sure.
The xr50l has an 18 inch rear wheel.
650L? Yes I put a correction in the pinned first comment and in the vid.
@@crosstrainingadventure Oh sorry, overlooked that.....and missed the "6" in my comment lol.
I find it a pain in the ass, have to check tyre pressure every time I take the bike out.
I check my air pressures for each ride so I find it only takes an extra 20 seconds to check the TUbliss as well. Maybe a minute to get the high pressure tube to 100psi if it's dropped below 80... I hate punctures so much it's well worth the effort IMHO. 😎
Bummer!
My first thought was this was a Topless review.
That's on our other channel, Nick. But surprisingly our review of topless middle aged obese men on adventure bikes isn't rating very well on UA-cam.
Cool music
Cheers John. A while back I was messing around with software where you could compose your own music. I've been using it a fair bit as it's so easy for UA-cam to issue copyright strikes if you don't acknowledge the artist in exactly the right way.
XR650L has an 18 inch rear.
My bad, I had already put a correction within the vid and in the pinned first comment too.
@@crosstrainingadventure no worries. Thinking I may have to try Tubliss on my XR 👍
Not sure if you have a 2.15 or 2.5 inch rear on the XR, Bryant. If it's the latter just see if your tyre bead has that measurement I mentioned in the vid.
@@crosstrainingadventure it's an 18x2.15. Would probably be wise to go ahead and purchase the Tubliss setup. Been pushing my luck with 12/10 PSI in some fairly rocky terrain.
So, it is a longest possible rim lock
Basically? Yep!
I have a 690 smc and it's tubeless from the factory.. heck out my youtube channel on how it's done...
No cop in the US is going to know or care about your tubliss, but if you get in an accident on the street insurance will use it to not payout.
Good point!
Tubeless?? 🤔 Surely everyone needs TwoTubes 😂
My buddies who have dents in their wheels, had to spend $ to drill into, re balance, and eventually replace a "tube" keep telling me how awesome Tubliss is!!! Meanwhile Im on my oem tubes with $17 rimlocks running 8-10 psi single track right next to them no problems 🤷♂
I rather use mousses, also not DOT approved buton light bikes works fine, no problems.
I know mousses are not approved but do they work on road? I've heard stories of them desintigrating with highway use.
@@peterhorrell On light dual sport bikes they do, I wouldn't go on highway though :) Although I heard some uses them on front wheel with no problems.
I've heard some guys have success with a firm mousse on the front. But generally they don't last well on the rear. Too much heat from road riding.
@@crosstrainingadventure on mine 500 exc-f front and rear work fine, street and dirt but on heavier bikes of-course rear will not last.
@@crosstrainingadventure The brand matters a LOT. Michelin works; Neutech doesn't.