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How to Make a Perfect Jacket Dart without Puckering
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2024
- Here is a full, detailed and practical tutorial on making a crisp and perfect dart on a bespoke jacket frony.
This technique will help you to get nice dart without puckering each time, on your tailored jackets, waistcoats and overcoats.
In this video we go through the whole process, step by step, from cutting to finishing & pressing the dart.
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Wow! I’ve been sewing for 50 plus years and I’ve never seen this before! Excellent craftsmanship sir! Thank you
Same here. That’s so cool!
Thank you for such a great comment. That is the beauty of tailoring (and commuinty) we never stop learning each other.
There will never be a time when I can say: 'okay, now I know everythig' 😉
Same - mind blown! Thank you for sharing this awesome technique 🥰
My mind was blown too. I’ve been sewing for 40 plus years as well. THANK YOU!
I'm a programmer. I'm never going to do this. However, that was excellent and so cool.
Thank you, such a cool comment. 🙌🏻
You`d be surprised, but I have quite a few students from IT who do tailoring as a hobby on a decent level.
Amazing people, I have met an incredible programmer-engineer who is very talanted & precise.
So, it is always a chance you'll get into tailoring at some point 😉
Highest professional technical level
You are so kind, thank you so much 😊
It makes so much sense to dart this way. Thank you for the tutorial! I sew dresses and have never seen this process done before, so I'm excited to use it. Thank you!
Thank you, I am so happy my videos go beyond men's tailoring and help more people 🙌🏻
I start at the widest, and go to the narrowest. Just running down and past the fabric. Not backstitching. Making a couple of knots with the tread. Works fine. But maybe on heavier garments like jackets/coats, this method is convenient. Thank you, though. 👏
It is a matter of habit I guess, I got used to making the jacket ones from top to bottom.
But, the trouser ones I also sew from the widest part down to the point.
I only have an old hand crank machine, so I didn't blink an eye when you finished the line by turning it around and going back over your stitching. I feel like the original sewing machine makers knew something we didn't!
NEVER seen it before today - and this is the 2nd video... Amazing.
They were trying to save us from unnecessarily 'fat' back tacks 😂
This is a great tip for bespoke tailoring. One thing I've learned as a sewist is to take my time when sewing darts. I've never used a back stitch for darts. I learned to sew them well by drawing out my dart mark and use a basting to ensure they are aligned. I start at the widest part is the dart using a standard stitch. Once I get close to the end of the dart, I tighten the stitch length in increments. That has always rendered me a perfectly sewn dart in any garment. Of course pressing and a clapper is a must to finish off the process.
*IVE BEEN USING THIS* for a couple of years, but I was not running the stitch through so I was getting a "good" finish but not the perfection you are - THANK YOU...!!!
You got a sub...!
Thank you for the sub! I`m working on some new tutorials already 👌🏻
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR Exceptionally clear and well-explained tutorial - the thumbnail was perfect as my darts are 90% but just not that 100% perfect as the one in the thumbnail thats what made me click. And you clearly explained that it is my thread locking that is causing the problem - the video is perfection.
@@piccalillipit9211 Thank you for pointing that out, my main principle is that thumbnail has to show the exact thing you are getting in the actual video, without any misleading nonsense.
Thank you for the lesson! Dart points are challenging for me. This method is fantastic!
I have never seen that technique ... looks superb. I've seen strips of tulle or organza used as dart-starters, but this is a bit different. It avoids the issue of cutting the dart open to press it flat, and then having it fray.
Thank you, glad it is helpful. There is another method with two attachable pieces, but I don`t like it, turns out a bit thick in my opinion.
And you are totally right, squishing dats is not a good idea, especially on heavier fabrics, like overcoat.
I like a balanced dart! You don't see them described often, and I have to say that the only examples I saw were for coats in thicker materials where pressing the dart to one side gives the garment a very homemade look. Because there is nothing under the side of the dart that you pressed the material away from.
I take it that you cut horizontal at the lower end of the dart because the pocket will go there? I don't do much menswear.
Beautiful craftsmanship! I started sewing darts from the tip, w/o backstitching (I would just knot the tails) years ago, with much better results, but I never knew, of course, about adding the extra piece of fabric. I was always concerned that I might be sewing against the grain, but the reduction in puckering spoke for itself. Thank you!
Thank you! I am happy it helps.
The grain direction is the most durable and stable, let's say, so now worries here. 🙌🏻
Wow!! I can't wait to try this. My darts have always puckered. This solution is genius. Pure artistry. Thank you!
Thanks, you are too kind! I hope the method works for you. 👍🏻
That is very impressive, and I have no idea what you just did. That's why there are masters such as yourself.
I also have no idea, but it looked beautifully done...wow!
It's immensely pleasurable to watch precision tailoring, it's an artform. Thank you for sharing your skill with us 😊
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you for the fantastic feedback, I appreciate it. 🙌🏻
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR You're very welcome. You are an excellent tailor and tutor. You deserve the recognition. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@SMartypAntsPants You are too kind ☺
I sew a lot of 'bunad' (Norwegian traditional outfit) and sew good darts - but this.... This was just an amazingly smart and clever way of sewing a nice (!!) dart! Thank you for this video! Much appreciated 🤩
Thank you!
Jsut googled 'bunad', love it, the contrast of embroidery with dark colored cloth is a pure class.
I always thought tailors who do traditional outifits are on another level: all the details, embroidery and also there is no way to cut corners or simplify things. 🙌🏻
I just discovered your channel, I want to learn how to make coats with circle bottom and jackets for women, thank you for sharing
You are welcome. 🙌🏻 I specialise only on men's tailored classical garments: trousers, jackets, waistcoats and overcoats. But i hope you'll learn something useful on the channel, more tailoring content to come.
Amazing seeing a true professional work his magic!!! Thank you.
You did a prefect job. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the feedback ❤️
The best video i ever see thank you so much sir
Thank you for such a nice comment, subscribe for more. 🙌🏻
Fantastic tutorial. It really works .Thank you.
Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it!
Ahh this is beautiful! Thank you so much!
Thank you for such a lovely comment ❤️
Thank you! ❤
I will look into your other vlogs as well.
Pleas do! There is lots of usefull tailoring stuff, plus I`m shooting a lot more right now 💪🏻
Brilliant! It's worth it to go the extra mile, we deserve it!
20/10 tutorial, thank u. You got a new sub 😊
Thank you for the sub and for such a lovely feedback, stay tuned for more tailoring content. 🙌🏻
Thank you for clearly demonstrating this technique. I appreciate your precise description of the steps. Peace.
very well done, brother! thank you for sharing~
My pleasure, stay tuned for more.
Loved this video. I learned to sew from my mother and 4H. I went through a lot of effort and the end result wasn't worthwhile. This video encourages me to try again. Also love the calm tone. It makes concentrating on what you're doing much easier. I'm happy to subscribe.
Great job
That makes so much sense. Thank you so much for sharing!
I was always taught to sew from the widest part down to the point. This is very interesting
It is a matter of habit I think, somehow the jacket ones are easier for me do from top to bottom.
The trouser ones howerver I also sew from the widest part down to the point.
Thank you so much for this excellent tip.
You are so welcome! More usefull stuff to come.
Excellent craftsmanship sir. 😊
Thank you for such kind feedback 🙌🏻
My pleasure. Have a lovely day. 🥰
This was excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to create such clear instructions.
Thank you for the comment, stay tuned for more, I hope new ones will be also helpful.
Thank you! 😊
Дякую! Гарно знято і зрозуміло!
You are welcome.
Радий що все зрозуміло 😉
.. ممتااااااااز .. شكراً ..للفكرة الجميلة والرائعة .. هكذا أفكار عمليّة ومميزة لا يمكن أن توجد في كتب .. هذه خِبرات مع الممارسة بحب ومُتعة في العمل ..
.. كانت عندي طرق أخرى لنهاية البانس .. ولكن هذه الطريقة أول مرّة أشوفها .. وهي أفضل وأنجح الطرق والنتيجة أدق .. وراح أعتمدها قريباً إن شاء الله .. شكراً للمحتوىٰ ..
Thank you!
Hey can you show how draft 1940s full cut double pleated high waisted trousers ?
Yeah, for sure. DM me in my Insta for details. 🤝
This is going to fix a skirt that I'm stuck on! Thank you!
I am happy men's bespoke tailoring can help with the skirts as well 🤩
Very neat. Woow.
Excellent !
Thank you, more to come!
Very nice...too good
You are too kind 🙌🏻
Amazing and simple
You are tottaly right, it's pretty simple 😉
WOW! What a perfect finish!🙌🏻👏🏻
I have seen other tailors use a wooden block. What is the purpose of doing that? Thank you 🙏🏻
The wooden block is called 'a clapper', it is just a piece of polished wood (with no varnish!).
After the pressing there is a residual steam & moisture inside the fibers, so the clapper absorbs it drying out the area.
Penjelasan yang mendetail dan cermat
Terima kasih, I appreciat the feedback.
Thank you
Thank you for the feedback and subscription!
Very excellent tip -cant wait to try this method!
I hope you`ll be pleased with the outcome 🙌🏻
Absolutely beautiful!
Really cool technique.
Thank you for the lesson.
Thank you for watching, stay tuned for more!
That is so neat, thank you for tutorial! Will definitely try it. Do you have any tips for contour darts?
Check out my other video on shirt darts, I hope it will be helpful:
ua-cam.com/video/nVWB8qzH7Zs/v-deo.html
Opps i have never seen this way before but from now will be doing it your way it looks perfect
Yeah, every tailor has their own way, I got used to this one, never failуed me👌🏻
Hi, thank you for this video, i've nvr seen this before, yes i would like to learn bespoke tailoring
Thank you! Just DM me on my Insta for the details.
Love the scissors !!
I love them too, pretty neat 😉
Never seen before great job .
Thank you! I am happy if it helps 🙌🏻
That was brilliant! Thank you!!❤
Thank you so much for the feedback 🙌🏻
Darts are in my worst nightmares!😱😭
This was really interesting!
I hope, from now on those nightmares never bother you again 😉
Thank you - what a perfekt work ❤
It's great, but only if the garment is lined, no?
Do you have a method for unlined clothing?
Yes, it is for lined and half-lined tailord jackets (and waistcoats).
I have a video on how to make a shirt dart, so there I show a method I use for unlined garments:
ua-cam.com/video/nVWB8qzH7Zs/v-deo.html
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR ah thank youu 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Wow. Excellent!! Can this technique be also applied to dart in dresses?
Thank you.
I am not an expert in dresses, I`m a menswear tailor.
But If you use a piece of thin cotton or light lining as an attchment piece and if the dress is lined, covering the darts, I think yes, why not?
Mind blown!🤯👍🏾
I`m hoping in a good way 😉
Thank you for sharing
Thank you for the feedback, stay tuned for more 🙌🏻
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR absolutely.....looking forward to learning more
Bravo 👏 👏 👏 🏆🎖
Thank you so much 🙌🏻
God bless for revealing this
I am happy to be helpful to my fellow tailors 💪🏻
Make a video on Italian vega pants Cutting and Tailoring.....❤
Please, DM or e-mail me for that!
Hello! What do you do if you cannot hide the seams/remains of the dart inside the garment (suppose for some reason you would like to do a dart on a regular t-shirt)? Just trim those margins as closely as possible?
Hi, great question.
This method is mostly for lined and half-lined garments. I only make men's tailored garments but on ladie's jackets, trousers and lined skirts it works the same.
I also have a video on how to make a shirt dart:
ua-cam.com/video/nVWB8qzH7Zs/v-deo.html
Check it out!
Very interesting. But I proably won't sew anythning that thick and with a lining. What about light fabrics? Like for shirts and blouses? Any tips?
Check out my other video on a striped shirt dart: ua-cam.com/video/nVWB8qzH7Zs/v-deo.html
Esto es maravilloso
Gracias por su apoyo. 🙌🏻
أتمنى الترجمة إلى العربية ..شكرا
I'll see what I can do
Hi there I don’t have FB or Instagram - is there another way I could see about learning or enrolling on one of your courses?
Yes, of course, write me on my mail: bespokeeducator@gmail.com
Высший пилотаж
It is, indeed 😎
Hello what is the ruler you use? Don't think I have ever seen one similar to yours when looking online.
It is very common one:
www.amazon.com/KUYYFDS-Graduation-Patterns-Clothing-Template/dp/B0C3M81DSM/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3VK0OZFOVNXH0&keywords=tailors+ruler+for+sewing&qid=1707311791&sprefix=tailors+ruler%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-11
Google 'tailoring curved ruler' and it will pop up eventually.
Super!
You are Super for leaving the feedback! 🤩
What do you mean by "all necessary inlays are threadmarked"?
That is the one of preprations stages of the jacket: wbefore cutting, you chalk the jacket pattern and add inlays for future alterations.
To separate the actual pattern outline from the added inlays, threadmarking (rows of sticking white threads) is used.
I did a clothing apprenticeship over 40 yrs ago and I have n
What brand are those amazing shears?
Those are Italian, made by ICAR company.
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR , thank you.
At 3:48, you say "before pressing it open, take your sharpest scissors and cut it a little bit more up to the attachment piece". It's not clear what you're cutting. Could you clarify that step, please?
I just cut the dart a bit more towards the bottom edge of attachment strip.
Initially we cut 1/3 of it, just roughly, and then after the attaching the supporting piece I cut a bit more, up to the point where the attachment starts.
У меня сейчас 01.42 почему я смотрю иностранное видел о том, как правильно делать швы, ЕСЛИ Я ДАЖЕ НЕ ШЬЮ?
I don't know how to find people on Instagram
Leave your Insta name and I`ll find you or click the link:
instagram.com/bespoke.educator/
👍👍
Thank you! 🙌🏻
Really interesting, makes me want to learn tailoring. I think you mean ‘strip’, not ‘stripe’
If this makes you want to learn tailoring, that means I do everything right 😊
You are right, I misspoke. The striped cloth is always on my mind 😂
Please add subtitles for all languages 😢
Thanks you for the feedback, I`ll try to figure it out.
Thank you
Thank you for the feedback 🙌🏻