Agreed, I actually did it this way on a second one I did months after this video. I also got a big sledge hammer and the spike went in quickly, doing that with a scrap piece of wood. It's a great method for a fence like this one.
Wow great video and explanation, quick and to the point. I had a question on burying a portion of the post. I’m going to redo my chicken run fence height from 4’ height now to make it 8’ tall using 4” x 4” pressure treated square wooden fence posts, I still want 8’ height exposed posts. How long should the post be to bury enough for 8’ of exposed fence?
Also you shouldn't burry the spike completely...again, the post will rot faster. The part above the ground allows the water to drain away from the post into the ground instead of collecting around the post.
I thought about that after I did it. I wanted it to look the same as the others but that may end up costing me in the future. If I was to do it again I would leave it partly above ground.
You must use enough concrete so it sits proud of the ground when you are done. Also, angle the top of the concrete away from the post. Otherwise water will collect around the post (like a bowl) above or below ground and the post will quickly rot off. Also, burning or charring the part of the post you put in the ground will make it less likely to absorb water.
The foam is awful, didn't last at all. The spike and the cement are both still holding up very well. I used the spike method again on another post and it's solid. However I bought a big sledge hammer and hammered in the spike first using a scrap piece of wood. That time the spike went in really fast and it's held nicely. So much easier that way. Hope this update helps.
pounding a spike using a 1 foot 3.5x3 5 will be easier than being on latter maybe . great video
Agreed, I actually did it this way on a second one I did months after this video. I also got a big sledge hammer and the spike went in quickly, doing that with a scrap piece of wood. It's a great method for a fence like this one.
Better support is bring that concrete up to or above ground level and slope it away from post for runoff.
Wow great video and explanation, quick and to the point. I had a question on burying a portion of the post. I’m going to redo my chicken run fence height from 4’ height now to make it 8’ tall using 4” x 4” pressure treated square wooden fence posts, I still want 8’ height exposed posts. How long should the post be to bury enough for 8’ of exposed fence?
Also you shouldn't burry the spike completely...again, the post will rot faster. The part above the ground allows the water to drain away from the post into the ground instead of collecting around the post.
I thought about that after I did it. I wanted it to look the same as the others but that may end up costing me in the future. If I was to do it again I would leave it partly above ground.
Thanks for this video, nice simple clear instructions
You must use enough concrete so it sits proud of the ground when you are done. Also, angle the top of the concrete away from the post. Otherwise water will collect around the post (like a bowl) above or below ground and the post will quickly rot off. Also, burning or charring the part of the post you put in the ground will make it less likely to absorb water.
Thank you!
Which method is holding up the best?
The foam is awful, didn't last at all. The spike and the cement are both still holding up very well. I used the spike method again on another post and it's solid. However I bought a big sledge hammer and hammered in the spike first using a scrap piece of wood. That time the spike went in really fast and it's held nicely. So much easier that way. Hope this update helps.
@@KeepinHomeUp Great, I think I like the idea of the spike. Thanks for the update!
We like the spikes because they’re also protection from weed eaters.