i have never said "This is the best video I've seen on UA-cam". Today. that ends. This is the best video I've seen on UA-cam! Very detailed and well explained. I am replacing my Rheem tankless heater that plumbers want to charge $450 to $505. I think I've learned enough to do it myself. Thank you sir.
I came back to say the same. Lol honestly I had my doubts about your presentation at first but I must admit your video is the only I kept coming back to. You are the only one I found who really showed the whole install well enough. I finished my install a couple of days ago. Very happy. Thanks for your time and info!
You are a good teacher and make videos that truly help us diy people. Im building my off grid home for me and the family and this videos will surely help us with our tankless install. Thankyou
I'm from Arizona myself born and raised what seems interesting to me about your video is the way you pronounced the word "Gila" it's a Spanish word and in Spanish the letter "G" sounds like the letter "H" like in the word "He" so the word "Gila" world actually be pronounced like "He-la" hope this helps with your Spanish respectfully. Now I'm gonna finish watching your video.
Scott, thanks so much for this video! My family and I just moved into a newly bought house that has a huge Rheem tankless WH. I was told it works well, but it doesn't come on. It has the propane hooked up by the local propane company's worker. Thank goodness for him. He just couldn't go any further into the wiring etc so I've been stumped. Having a background in construction I knew I could get it going and now since watching your video I have a few ideas. No worries, I'll make sure to have the propane, water and electricity all off before I dig into it..Hahahaa!! Thanks again! I'm a new fan for life...
Excellent explanation. Excellent video. Those two stepped "rings" you used are called Reducing Washers and those two are used to reduce a hole from 3/4" to 1/2," in this installation and are not needed as both the connector and hole are 1/2." But, they would spread the stress over a wider area so, I see why you used them, especially on thin sheet metal. The outer edge goes against the surface with the smaller diameter, the "stepped" part, away from the surface. In other words, the "indent" goes UP, not down, on the inside. That gray part is called a Cord Connector. Tightening the collar compresses the seal against the cable and keeps moisture (and bugs) from entering the cabinet. The six- toothed threaded object is called a "locknut." Tighten it well. The only other thing I can add is to wrap your foam pipe insulation with aluminum foil tape. It will reflect the heat back towards the water so, less heat is lost as the water flows. Critters will be less likely to eat the foam, too. Great job on the video. 👍
Hey Scott, people are right, this is the best how to video. I called the RHEEM help line and they had no clue how to hook up the main electrical, they just kept telling me to call an electrician. Such crap. I watched your video and was correct in the way I was hooking it up to begin with. Just the cheesy way the instructions showed did not seem safe. I have however hooked everything up and it will run for about five minutes then shut off with code 11. I believe this has to do with the regulator and hose size (3/8) unit says 1/2 inch min. Did you have any issues? My regulator is adjustable but I have tried both directions in increments and nothing works. I can plumb it the way you did in video 2 but dont have the parts and time right this second. Thanks for any advice you can provide, and seriously the best how to video I have ever seen. Keep It up. Sheldon
UPDATE, Removed single stage 10 PSI adjustable regulator and installed the two stage regulator from my house system and the heater ran for an hour with no issues at all. Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
Scott thank you so much for this video. I'm in the process of building a tiny home and I'm looking to install a similar setup on mine. Your attention to details greatly helps us novice folk.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I have soldered a lot of copper with the blue bottles of propane. I used MAP Gas when I had to solder some 1" copper. Also the install kits are needed to de-scale the heater every year or two.
What size diameter propane hose did you use? I tried to use my set up from my old tankless that was much smaller. Basically the same thing you'd use for a grill. Kept getting a problem code "shut off valve not fully opened" so I figured I just needed to get a larger regulator but the plumber who works at my local ace said I need a 3/4 hose and I shouldn't reduce like how you showed in the video. I don't get it because the new regulator has the same standard connections so I'd have to bring it up to 3/4 with some connections.
I used the largest on demand regulator from an Rv store that was connected to a 5/8 hose and that worked great until my 150 gallon tank was fixed/ inspected and then filled. I have since installed this exact set up on two other project that Ive done with no problems at all Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Hey man your video is exceptional it's the model example for many out here thank you for posting this it really helped me out 👍you got a new subscriber
Well I installed it about 3 years ago and to date I have had ZERO problems with it. and I still have more the half a tank full of Propane..now to be fair Only have one bathroom with shower and a kitchen sink. as for the Freezing temps...it has not effected the unit at all Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
My contractor is trying to install one for me now. The first one the regulator didn’t work and the gas pressure on a 5 gallon tank of propane blew out the manifold on the water heater and flames were shooting a foot out the side of the unit. That’s why they say not to have anything near or around it and it must be outside. Fortunately the store replaced the unit but now my contractor is too nervous to turn the replacement unit on. Should I call a licensed plumber?
I would make sure that you have the proper regulator for the gas. As far as turning it on ? if he did it right and to code there shouldn't be any problems to worry about. Turn it on and have someone man the shut uff valve to shut it off if a problem happens. Thanks for Watching and SUBSCRIBING
No ..I needed a longer hose for another project I was working on at my cabin so I just switched them out until I had a chance to replace it with the other one I started with.. Hope that helps Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Largest on demand regulator Could you give me the part number so I can Google that I'm haveing issues with what regulator I'm going to need . thanks . For lpg rheem . The right regulator is main part of all of this connecting it to a small lpg bbq tank .
For the amount of use I was going to have a 7 Gal propane tank seemed like the way to go.. After I installed the unit I did some research on a gas company that could fix and fill my larger 150 Gal propane tank and as of today it has been hooked up and doing well for over two years now and I still have over 3/4 of a tank let of propane let to use. Im very happy with the install and the propane unit itself and Im in the process of installing another unit just like this on in my shop in Glendale ,Az Ill be posting that video in the next month or so. Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
So just go mine installed but am getting a code 11 (won't stay lit) error but only when I put the cap on the vent at the top of the roof. When I remove the vent cap it works. So I'm figuring it's an air intake issue but can figure out where the air intake is. Any help is much appreciated!
@@chadmarrah181 It was the cap. The system is set up with the exhaust tubing to carry the air intake as well. You need the right cap so that it can use it to pull in the air through one tube and send the exhaust up through the other.
Thanks so much for the excellent how to video. I will be installing something similar soon.. I notice you don't have a gas line "sediment trap / drip leg" between your 1/2 inch gas line and the unit... Was your inspector OK with that..? I'm not having mine inspected, and I'm wondering if it's really needed with an LP unit vs NatGas. To make that sediment trap requires a bunch of additional connections to make the tee, and seems to me adds many more potential leak points for an indoor install. As seen here for example : ua-cam.com/video/oppHCDDKtLY/v-deo.html
So... this (expensive) water heater is NOT for indoor use? In other words it's not VENTED for indoor use? Why pay that much when you could have gotten a much cheaper unit if you were going to put it outside... other units have a SIMPLE snap on values and ready to go in minutes.Like a Camplus or Triton around $180. If I'm going to pay around $800. for a water heater... it better have more parts than this. Count me out. But... YOU do have a GREAT Video.
They make an identical unit for inside if you live in a cold climate. Typically you see these outdoor are seen units in warm climates where it won’t freeze. Of course, people Texas learned last year that their outdoor water heaters can freeze even in so called warm climates. The fittings he used aren’t absolutely needed for operation though they are highly recommended. Thy are bypass valves that make maintaining the unit much more convenient. The unit should be flushed with vinegar once (better twice) a year to “de-scale” the interior parts. The bypass valve make that process quick and easy.
To get this done as a DIY; YOU HAVE to be familiar with the trades. If not, I see people make a mess, among major expenses doing repairs they created. You can’t get everything done by UA-camg. There is skill that it comes down to doing this kind of work, plus the arsenal of tools. Calculate that with a professional installation and you come out cheaper and a warranty. Just my 2 cents.
@@micmic9410 I totally agree... This is not my first rodeo (except with tankless water heaters) I have "Flip" RVs for over 30 years! I'm on my 25th one right now...
@@JudiChristopher - me too! they had to do some extra pipe to get it to the basement wall where it was close to all my upstairs fixtures - i got the highest flow rate system available total cost 2700. but, wow, is it great - i really like it.
i have never said "This is the best video I've seen on UA-cam". Today. that ends. This is the best video I've seen on UA-cam! Very detailed and well explained. I am replacing my Rheem tankless heater that plumbers want to charge $450 to $505. I think I've learned enough to do it myself. Thank you sir.
Thank You so much for the kind words ...It make what I do worth everything ///Good luck on the install. Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
I came back to say the same. Lol honestly I had my doubts about your presentation at first but I must admit your video is the only I kept coming back to. You are the only one I found who really showed the whole install well enough. I finished my install a couple of days ago. Very happy. Thanks for your time and info!
You are a good teacher and make videos that truly help us diy people. Im building my off grid home for me and the family and this videos will surely help us with our tankless install. Thankyou
You can use a electric water heater 220 v less complicated
I'm from Arizona myself born and raised what seems interesting to me about your video is the way you pronounced the word "Gila" it's a Spanish word and in Spanish the letter "G" sounds like the letter "H" like in the word "He" so the word "Gila" world actually be pronounced like "He-la" hope this helps with your Spanish respectfully. Now I'm gonna finish watching your video.
Scott, thanks so much for this video! My family and I just moved into a newly bought house that has a huge Rheem tankless WH. I was told it works well, but it doesn't come on. It has the propane hooked up by the local propane company's worker. Thank goodness for him. He just couldn't go any further into the wiring etc so I've been stumped. Having a background in construction I knew I could get it going and now since watching your video I have a few ideas.
No worries, I'll make sure to have the propane, water and electricity all off before I dig into it..Hahahaa!!
Thanks again!
I'm a new fan for life...
Scott, I agree with another commentor here: This is the absolute damned best how to video I've ever seen on UA-cam. Excellent!!
Thank you for the kind words...
Excellent explanation. Excellent video.
Those two stepped "rings" you used are called Reducing Washers and those two are used to reduce a hole from 3/4" to 1/2," in this installation and are not needed as both the connector and hole are 1/2." But, they would spread the stress over a wider area so, I see why you used them, especially on thin sheet metal. The outer edge goes against the surface with the smaller diameter, the "stepped" part, away from the surface. In other words, the "indent" goes UP, not down, on the inside. That gray part is called a Cord Connector. Tightening the collar compresses the seal against the cable and keeps moisture (and bugs) from entering the cabinet. The six- toothed threaded object is called a "locknut." Tighten it well.
The only other thing I can add is to wrap your foam pipe insulation with aluminum foil tape. It will reflect the heat back towards the water so, less heat is lost as the water flows. Critters will be less likely to eat the foam, too.
Great job on the video. 👍
Good to know... Thank you!
Hey Scott, people are right, this is the best how to video. I called the RHEEM help line and they had no clue how to hook up the main electrical, they just kept telling me to call an electrician. Such crap. I watched your video and was correct in the way I was hooking it up to begin with. Just the cheesy way the instructions showed did not seem safe. I have however hooked everything up and it will run for about five minutes then shut off with code 11. I believe this has to do with the regulator and hose size (3/8) unit says 1/2 inch min. Did you have any issues? My regulator is adjustable but I have tried both directions in increments and nothing works. I can plumb it the way you did in video 2 but dont have the parts and time right this second. Thanks for any advice you can provide, and seriously the best how to video I have ever seen. Keep It up. Sheldon
UPDATE, Removed single stage 10 PSI adjustable regulator and installed the two stage regulator from my house system and the heater ran for an hour with no issues at all. Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
I had no problems at all with the way I hooked everything up.. Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Scott thank you so much for this video. I'm in the process of building a tiny home and I'm looking to install a similar setup on mine. Your attention to details greatly helps us novice folk.
pro trick: you can watch movies on Flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Bobby Pablo yea, I have been watching on flixzone for since december myself :)
@Bobby Pablo definitely, have been using flixzone for months myself :)
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Morning Scott
Greate video and handyman job.keep up the good work.regards Kobus from South Afrika
Scott - Terrific video! So very helpful. Thanks for taking time to share.
Great insights! What an informative video!
Thank you so much, sir.
You're a beautiful human being!
One of the best how-to videos on UA-cam. Good job sir.
I have soldered a lot of copper with the blue bottles of propane. I used MAP Gas when I had to solder some 1" copper. Also the install kits are needed to de-scale the heater every year or two.
What size diameter propane hose did you use? I tried to use my set up from my old tankless that was much smaller. Basically the same thing you'd use for a grill. Kept getting a problem code "shut off valve not fully opened" so I figured I just needed to get a larger regulator but the plumber who works at my local ace said I need a 3/4 hose and I shouldn't reduce like how you showed in the video. I don't get it because the new regulator has the same standard connections so I'd have to bring it up to 3/4 with some connections.
I used the largest on demand regulator from an Rv store that was connected to a 5/8 hose and that worked great until my 150 gallon tank was fixed/ inspected and then filled. I have since installed this exact set up on two other project that Ive done with no problems at all Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Hey man your video is exceptional it's the model example for many out here thank you for posting this it really helped me out 👍you got a new subscriber
Thank You...
Thanks for sharing! I'm going to mount mine to my vinyl siding just not sure how to mount it with no water leaking behind my vinyl.
very good. Congratulations
Thank you ,ordering my unit today😎😎
Do you have links to the hose, fittings and regulator you used? Thank you!
Hi buddy thanks very informative this was well done great installment
What keeps your pipes from freezing in the winter
At 32:20 of this video I show the insolation I used and to date Ive never had any problems.
Thanks for watching & SUBSCRIBING
Old style Pipe cutter for copper usually has a built in deburring tool
How do you get by with an exterior unit in Northern AZ? I would think freezing is a concern.
Well I installed it about 3 years ago and to date I have had ZERO problems with it. and I still have more the half a tank full of Propane..now to be fair Only have one bathroom with shower and a kitchen sink. as for the Freezing temps...it has not effected the unit at all
Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Great video!! Thank you!
My contractor is trying to install one for me now. The first one the regulator didn’t work and the gas pressure on a 5 gallon tank of propane blew out the manifold on the water heater and flames were shooting a foot out the side of the unit. That’s why they say not to have anything near or around it and it must be outside. Fortunately the store replaced the unit but now my contractor is too nervous to turn the replacement unit on. Should I call a licensed plumber?
I would make sure that you have the proper regulator for the gas. As far as turning it on ? if he did it right and to code there shouldn't be any problems to worry about. Turn it on and have someone man the shut uff valve to shut it off if a problem happens. Thanks for Watching and SUBSCRIBING
@@diymrscott4983 Thanks for your quick reply! I have hot water today, yay!
AWESOME JOB ...
I'm wondering if it ever froze in the winter?
No never not even close... I love it and am very happy with it as of 8/2/2024
Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Nicely done. Never used a shark bite, but I like not having to solder
I believe the tmp
And
Condensation is supposed to be out of pvc or cpvc because the condensation is very acidic
I just installed mine, like you was disappointed when the service kit wasn't included
i hooked up the pih tail wire i had behind the plate that says 120v only. i think i burt the mother bored. do you think that is true?
We’re did you get the hose with regulator for the propane tank?
I picked it up at the local RV super store. State Trailers Supply Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
Did the regulator give you problems? Is that why you swapped it out?
No ..I needed a longer hose for another project I was working on at my cabin so I just switched them out until I had a chance to replace it with the other one I started with.. Hope that helps Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
at 29:50
is your finger ok Scott?
Largest on demand regulator Could you give me the part number so I can Google that I'm haveing issues with what regulator I'm going to need . thanks . For lpg rheem . The right regulator is main part of all of this connecting it to a small lpg bbq tank .
Thank you for showing the electrical. The manual didn't give great directions.
Why you choose propane water heater instead of natural gas
For the amount of use I was going to have a 7 Gal propane tank seemed like the way to go.. After I installed the unit I did some research on a gas company that could fix and fill my larger 150 Gal propane tank and as of today it has been hooked up and doing well for over two years now and I still have over 3/4 of a tank let of propane let to use. Im very happy with the install and the propane unit itself and Im in the process of installing another unit just like this on in my shop in Glendale ,Az Ill be posting that video in the next month or so. Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
well i bought one two years ago and still have not installed it . got mine off ebay brand new for 150.00
So just go mine installed but am getting a code 11 (won't stay lit) error but only when I put the cap on the vent at the top of the roof. When I remove the vent cap it works. So I'm figuring it's an air intake issue but can figure out where the air intake is. Any help is much appreciated!
Any luck with this?
@@chadmarrah181 It was the cap. The system is set up with the exhaust tubing to carry the air intake as well. You need the right cap so that it can use it to pull in the air through one tube and send the exhaust up through the other.
Propane pressure for water heaters
Thanks so much for the excellent how to video. I will be installing something similar soon.. I notice you don't have a gas line "sediment trap / drip leg" between your 1/2 inch gas line and the unit... Was your inspector OK with that..? I'm not having mine inspected, and I'm wondering if it's really needed with an LP unit vs NatGas. To make that sediment trap requires a bunch of additional connections to make the tee, and seems to me adds many more potential leak points for an indoor install. As seen here for example : ua-cam.com/video/oppHCDDKtLY/v-deo.html
The Inspector never said anything so I guess it was ok ...
@@diymrscott4983 That's great.. thx!
So... this (expensive) water heater is NOT for indoor use?
In other words it's not VENTED for indoor use? Why pay that much when you could have gotten a much cheaper unit if you were going to put it outside... other units have a SIMPLE snap on values and ready to go in minutes.Like a Camplus or Triton around $180.
If I'm going to pay around $800. for a water heater... it better have more parts than this.
Count me out.
But... YOU do have a GREAT Video.
Ive had it now for almost a year and I couldn't be happier with the product.. Thanks for Watching & SUBSCRIBING
They make an identical unit for inside if you live in a cold climate. Typically you see these outdoor are seen units in warm climates where it won’t freeze. Of course, people Texas learned last year that their outdoor water heaters can freeze even in so called warm climates.
The fittings he used aren’t absolutely needed for operation though they are highly recommended. Thy are bypass valves that make maintaining the unit much more convenient. The unit should be flushed with vinegar once (better twice) a year to “de-scale” the interior parts. The bypass valve make that process quick and easy.
@@darwinawardcommittee
Excellent advice...
Don't you just Love Vinegar... I use it all the time... Love it for cleaning.. and "Descaling"
To get this done as a DIY; YOU HAVE to be familiar with the trades. If not, I see people make a mess, among major expenses doing repairs they created. You can’t get everything done by UA-camg. There is skill that it comes down to doing this kind of work, plus the arsenal of tools. Calculate that with a professional installation and you come out cheaper and a warranty. Just my 2 cents.
@@micmic9410
I totally agree...
This is not my first rodeo (except with tankless water heaters)
I have "Flip" RVs for over 30 years! I'm on my 25th one right now...
LIKE IT BUT YOUR SHARK BIT ARE NOT GOOD YOU SWEET EVERYTHING ELSE WHY NOT USE COOPER TO PEX SWEET ON
i'll tell you how i did my tankless water heater - 1. pick up phone. 2 call plumber. 3 pay plumber when done.........there you go!
Glad you have a lot of money to do just that...
@@JudiChristopher - me too! they had to do some extra pipe to get it to the basement wall where it was close to all my upstairs fixtures - i got the highest flow rate system available total cost 2700. but, wow, is it great - i really like it.