Looks as if it came like that. Great work. I have the Tisas 1911 A1 Service Special but it is the gray cerakote. I would love to try this but I don't think it would look as good as the all stainless finish in the end.
Great job, sir! I don't have the stones to even *think* about trying that on my firearm. Looks like it's gonna be skateboard tape on my front grip strap, for me.
I'm going to be building a 1911 for my dad for his 55th birthday and will be doing this to add a custom touch to it! I'm pretty crafty and this absolutely seems like something I could do! I'd rather not pay $300 to have someone to it for me lol
I love that! I've had a few people interested in the jig I came up with, so I decided to sell some on Ebay. It's much better than my original. If you need something less expensive like that, please go check it out and I can give you a discount!
Thank you. It took me about 15 hours to complete everything. You definitely have to take your time on it if you want it super nice. I have the jigs listed on Ebay linked in the description if you'd like to checker your own 1911. Thanks for watching!
I did it based on the cut depth, about halfway the thickness of the front strap. A little more is fine if you want a sharper texture. I wouldn't go more than 60% personally. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
To add to this, my horizontal cuts are deeper than the vertical ones, about 55 to 60% on horizontal, about 50% vertical. You do not need to try to get them to the same depth. Having the horizon lines deeper than the vertical lines will leave the front strap stronger than if you were to cut the vertical lines deeper than the horizontal lines. I would start with the horizontal lines first.
Nope, no issues. Stainless steel does not need a finish to stay corrosion resistant and is widespread, used perfectly fine without a finish. You're good to go!
You think this would work on a polymer frame? Specifically a G43x? The sides are fine but the front and back strap are lacking in texture. I’m not a fan of sandpaper stickers, nor hand stippling with a soldering iron.
Always best to cut the vertical lines first. I have checkered over 100 pistol frames. Tried both ways and vertical lines first works better
Why is that?
Happy to see a fellow enthusiast work more with less! Improvise, adapt, and overcome. Great work.
Thank you
That's amazing work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Saved for future reference!
Thanks, glad I could help!
Brave and impressive -- well done
Came here from Reddit. Looks great man. Now I want to practice lol
Thanks for watching! Definitely a good idea to practice first.
Absolutely amazing man, great work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks good man thanks for sharing.
Incredible work!!!!
Thanks!
Looks as if it came like that. Great work. I have the Tisas 1911 A1 Service Special but it is the gray cerakote. I would love to try this but I don't think it would look as good as the all stainless finish in the end.
Yeah that would be a difficult one with cerakote and parkerization underneath involed.
Great job, sir! I don't have the stones to even *think* about trying that on my firearm.
Looks like it's gonna be skateboard tape on my front grip strap, for me.
Send it to me and I'll do it for $100!
I'm going to be building a 1911 for my dad for his 55th birthday and will be doing this to add a custom touch to it! I'm pretty crafty and this absolutely seems like something I could do! I'd rather not pay $300 to have someone to it for me lol
I love that! I've had a few people interested in the jig I came up with, so I decided to sell some on Ebay. It's much better than my original. If you need something less expensive like that, please go check it out and I can give you a discount!
Nice. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Nice job king
Thanks King Crab!
Beautiful work sir!! How long did it take you?
Thank you. It took me about 15 hours to complete everything. You definitely have to take your time on it if you want it super nice. I have the jigs listed on Ebay linked in the description if you'd like to checker your own 1911. Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid. How do you know at what height to leave it at, is there a standard?
I did it based on the cut depth, about halfway the thickness of the front strap. A little more is fine if you want a sharper texture. I wouldn't go more than 60% personally. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
To add to this, my horizontal cuts are deeper than the vertical ones, about 55 to 60% on horizontal, about 50% vertical. You do not need to try to get them to the same depth. Having the horizon lines deeper than the vertical lines will leave the front strap stronger than if you were to cut the vertical lines deeper than the horizontal lines. I would start with the horizontal lines first.
Subscribed, I want to do this on my 1911. Mine is stainless steel as well. Did you see any issues without refinishing after checkering?
Nope, no issues. Stainless steel does not need a finish to stay corrosion resistant and is widespread, used perfectly fine without a finish. You're good to go!
@@Radvous awesome, looking forward to doing it on mine
How did you cut the trigger guard under cut?
The undercut can from the factory, but it wouldn't be hard to do yourself.
You think this would work on a polymer frame? Specifically a G43x? The sides are fine but the front and back strap are lacking in texture. I’m not a fan of sandpaper stickers, nor hand stippling with a soldering iron.
Theoretically yes, but I would check the thickness of the grip first. Make sure it will be thick enough after checkering
where did you buy your checkering file?
I bought it from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FS64CZ3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
I have a Colt 1911 competition model. Think you can pull this off on it?
@user-el6fq5kt4b absolutely! I'd be willing to do it for $120