Having worked for 25+ years in the factory that made these receptacles I have some knowledge about the differences. I retired about 15 years ago but some things haven’t changed much. The basic receptacle is a great value for the price when you consider the cost of brass, steel, urea (plastic), machinery, dies, etc. Until the 1980’s these were nearly hand assembled by my mother and hundreds of other Leviton workers in Rhode Island. Over the years the assembly lines were automated so one person then oversaw what six people used to do. The company was not making a financial killing on these receptacles, it was the volume that made it worthwhile. Keep in mind big box customers (aka Home Depot, etc.) and distributors to big housing developers wanted the least expensive device and would buy from Chinese competition if they didn’t get their price point. IMO if this basic receptacle is installed correctly and you don’t frequently plug/unplug things into it, the receptacle will last forever. Lots of people will move into a home and plug in the floor lamp, tv, toaster oven, etc. and leave it that way for a decade. For that kind of use I think the basic receptacle will last forever. However if you frequently plug/unplug tools, appliances, etc. into a receptacle then getting a Spec grade receptacle makes sense. For the typical homeowner the Commercial/Industrial/Hospital grade wiring device is a waste of money. It would be akin to buying a Viking professional stove to boil water for a pot of spaghetti. With each change in ‘grade’ the component materials do change. For example the basic receptacle uses urea for the ‘plastic’ parts. Higher grades of receptacles use nylon. The basic receptacle uses solid brass terminals (no they are not plated steel), higher grades may use phosphor bronze. The cradle type strap costs more than the pass-through strap, the brass grounding contacts on the strap costs money to make and attach, etc. The higher quality receptacles have much lower sales volume, so the fixed cost of tooling has to be spread over fewer units. And those extra components means more labor costs to assemble. Some items have such low sales volume that it is hard to justify the upfront cost to automate. And yes, with higher quality often means a higher profit margin.
Hey Roy, awesome info! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience with the manufacturing process and materials used for the different grades of receptacles. Happy New Year!
@@jharuni As a teenager while in high school I worked at Leviton for two summers sweeping floors, filling assembly line bins with parts, stacking boxes on pallets, etc. A few years later while attending college I returned for a night shift job in the parts warehouse and stayed with the company for 25+ years. By the time I took very early retirement I had worked on the factory floor, warehouse, production planning, cost engineering, and finance dept which monitored the budget of 15 factories in the USA and Mexico. So you could go a long way at Leviton, which was and remains a family company. I remember old-timers in the factory kidding me, as I walked through the factory in white shirt and tie, that they were at my baptism. It was the kind of company that when the owner, Mr. Leviton, came up from the New York corporate office to visit our factory lots of the older Portuguese women who were on the assembly line would stop and give him a hug. Leviton sponsored hundreds of their family members wanting to immigrate to the USA with a guarantee of a job when they arrived. I heard stories of many of them, parents and children, working all the shifts/hours they could. A year after arriving in the USA the father would buy a house and pay for it in cash, no mortgage. My dad worked for Leviton just before WWII, and again in the Brooklyn factory when he returned from combat (Pacific Theatre), and later offered him a job in Rhode Island when he got married. Factory foremen would kid me about my mom as she would stop the assembly line if a brass part didn't fit just right in the plastic base, or if there was dust on a batch of receptacles otherwise ready for packaging. Lots of great memories and wonderful people at Leviton.
This is exactly why I used the commercial grade for my shed/workbench, and the residential in my home. The workplace outlets see a great deal more plugging/unplugging. Most in the house have had a lamp plugged in for years, others may get something once a week. The kitchen outlets are used a lot, but those are most GFI. When you count the number of outlets in a home and realize that they will not be mechanically stressed as much as in a workplace, it makes economic sense to use the less expensive option.
Retired now but spent 40 plus years doing electrical. You made a excellent video and showed the comparison very well. One thing I might add is any outlet 15 amp or 20 amp when the appliance wants to fall down where it is plugged in due to being used a lot of course shows the plug needs replaced. The short story to that is loose plug creates low voltage (voltage drop) which on a fixed appliance causes higher current (heat) which can start a a fire. ( I started in 1978 wiring houses, then to commercial, and retired working on power lines and substations.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback. My dad spent his career as a lineman as well. Never saw a guy so happy to get a call in the middle of the night. Overtime Baby! Don't even get him started on multi-week trips for ice storms or hurricanes 🤑
I've used a combination of these outlets throughout my house. In outlets that I use very rarely, such as a single lamp that I almost never unplug, the cheaper grade has worked fine. However, any outlet that gets a lot more use of plugging in and out (garage, home office, etc.) I've utilized a commercial grade receptacle.
I'm a believer in the concept called "false economy." A well-made product that costs four times the price of the inexpensive product but lasts ten times longer is worth the extra money.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you could just find the replacement part and install it. Calling the manufacturer helps a lot if you can’t find what you’re looking for on the interwebs
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I buy used appliances, or even get them for free on craigslist. I've had great luck with Kenmore. My first dryer was free 15 years ago and still works, but I've replaced the motor, belt, and a sensor at one point. I'm only on my 4th washer, and my 3rd one is in my basement as a back up, because the house i bought already had a washer and dryer. I've paid $60 for my washing machines total. My first was $35 and lasted 12 years. The second washer was free to me, and i gave it away because i got a practically brand new one for $25. I'm 41 and the only brand new appliance I've ever bought was a dishwasher. I just can't justify a used one. Lol. What sucks is that having nice, new, matching appliances is really nice. My house came with a 2004 side by side fridge that still works just fine. In my mudroom/laundry room i have my old 94' Kenmore fridge in use for extra room, that i got for $50, 5 year's ago. My roughly 30 year old gas range that came with the house, works great, and i could probably use it and fix if needed the rest of my life. But I've completely remodeled my kitchen, and it doesn't match at all!! Lol.. I'm probably going to buy a new one. Sorry for the long winded babbling.. The older appliances were mostly made better and more easily repairable, but everyone loves pretty stuff
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I have six kids. We bought Speed Queen Washer and Dryer after our Bosch failed. Speed Queen are made in USA to a Commercial Spec.
Andrew Seamans my speed queen washer motor caught on fire. Had to buy a new machine before 2 years old. Disappointing because they claim it will last 10 years.
I have 40 yrs of experience in the electrical field and the 50 cent device does not fail that often. What normally causes the failure is wire stabbed into the back, and a space heater running on it. The heating/cooling loosens the contact and arcs/burns the receptacle into failure.
My sister's 1927 house had one outlet failure where she plugs the heater in and out. I made her throw the main circuit for me to replace it bc I don't work on hot wires. Rest of the wiring is good as gold. She has the knob and tube wiring. She was fussing about having to throw the main switch and I told her to hire a union man. IBEW yeah!
I believe in over-engineering things to make them last, and I believe it worth paying extra so as to avoid breakage or avoidable risks. We do not really know in advance which outlets will be used for merely a clock-radio or lamp, or a heavy-current device such as a heater or air conditioner. So why not use better quality for everything?
@@Layarion It is generally better to over-engineer something, than to do a shoddy job. It is much easier to do it right the first time, than for a customer to have a problem that could have easily been prevented by installing stuff right or using better quality equipment. And often those costs can be passed onto the customer anyway. Why risk an outlet arcing or overheating, just because the customer plugged in too much power-consuming stuff. Why not use rugged reliable equipment?
Great job. Thank you. I'd like to add two fine points: (1) The added "convenience feature" of the push-in connections on the cheaper outlet is favored by some people, but it's not as much convenience advantage as you might think. The shape of the screw terminals on the commercial-grade outlet allows you to push the straight wire-end in under the screw and tighten it without having to bend it around the screw. Almost as easy as the unreliable push-in connection. (2) You described a short from hot to ground in the cheaper outlet. A similar short can also occur from neutral to ground, which would go undetected in normal operation, but could lead to 'ground-loop' problems with fault safety and induced hum.
The push in feature your talking about is referred to "Backstabbing" and are junk, as a master electrician i have seen and replaced countless number of these that have failed.
I got a first-hand lesson in outlets when I moved into my house in 2017. The house was built in 1994. Many of the outlets were failing - some had burn marks on the front, and many would no longer hold a plug properly. These were all cheap builder-grade outlets. I've replaced every outlet (55!) with commercial grade outlets. I got nice commercial Legrand outlets, and I was able to pick up a 10-pack for around $13. Make sure you shop around - price differences between Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowe's were huge.
I just like the tactile feel of inserting a plug into a better quality outlet - the outlet firmly grips the prongs with a secure snap. I've noticed that most GFCI outlets using the Decora design do not have a secure snap when the plug is inserted. Those outlets I encounter in hotel bathrooms are almost always shot, barely gripping the plug.
@@creamwobbly I do. Spent 15 minutes this week deciding what brand load center to get. Ended up with Square D, because they had nearly full stock for breakers. Eaton was bare.
@@JasonW. I have a GE load center with a mix of Square D and GE breakers in it because that’s what the big box store had. I would’ve liked a Square D or EATON panel though. I like Square D (Schneider) as well as EATON’s Pow-r-Line panels.
@@miket5506 I have 4 panels right now: GE main, Eaton sub jn house, now two Square D Homeline subs in shop outbuilding. I'd rather have QO but, breakers short on stock right now, and much more expensive. I dislike the GE, and will probably replace it at some time. Edit: also, all are plug on neutral except the GE. Wish they always came with neutral on breaker (PoN) for simplicity.
The commercial receptacles should be mandatory in kitchens, basements, garages, etc. Anywhere where you're constantly plugging and unplugging. Residential are fine for other rooms.
in kitchens outlets with a braker built in are now mandatory in all New homes . This outlet is one of the best built also but expensive thus only used when law require it .
I think if you go with commercial anywhere in the project, you will ultimately save money by going commercial everywhere as no time will be spent making sure all receptacles are "correct."
I usually only use the expensive ones in my houses where I'm going to use the plug regularly. I've found that the cheap ones last just fine if they're only used occasionally. Plus these things are easily replaced if you have a problem. I would specify the better ones if I was paying a high dollar electrician to do the work. Ps. If you think the low price plug shown in this video was cheaply made you should see the 40 + year old ones I replaced in an old manufactured home.
Yeah, at a minimum in a kitchen, garage or the easy-to-access plugs that a vacuum might get plugged in regularly should have the commercial ones. Also a good idea to go tamper resistant.
@@sunriseshell tamper resistant is a bitch and a half to plug anything into. I’m sticking with plain old industrial grade. If the inspector doesn’t like it he can blow me 😆
I find it uncomfortable when someone is offering advice about technical matters, particularly when it involves basic matters such as electrical, and for liability reasons, states that everything (s)he’s saying is just entertainment. It’s not. It’s advice that’s being given about the matter being talked about. If someone is confident that what they’re saying is correct, then say so. If not, then don’t talk about it, if you’re not qualified to do so. Despite qualifications that it’s just entertainment, there are people who will follow the advice being given, because that’s the way people are. An example; There are commercial grade outlets that have push terminals. Usually those terminals have the wire pushed in, but then the screws are used to tighten the wire in place. These are fast and easy to use, but also hold the wire tightly.
I Built my own house!! Comm grade plugs. Wife after 20tyrs, she still bitches the plugs are to hard to plug in and pull out!!! haha Always something! ;-)) Peace!
In addition to less actual material going into the cheaper outlets, a big part of how they make a profit off of them is by not packaging them individually. The individual boxes in which they package the commercial grade outlets are actually a big expense. Not only because of the extra packing material, but because in the same case that holds a mere dozen boxed commercial outlets they can stuff 30 cheap ones, which saves on shipping costs.
The other logistic here is shelf/storage space in the store. One order gets 3x as many items into the store's same storage and show space. Much like 'bag your own screws' out of the bins vs 'bags with a few screws each' on the display.
Not true. I stay in a mobile home and it was a top of the line model. Many of the switches and outlets are better than what you can buy now even. The switches still snap/click like a new one, which the.snapping/clicking is a good thing safety and load wise. Not to mention most now are being build with the same if not stricter requirements now for stuff like plumbing and electrical because of the fact they are moved. Was there a time and are some still built cheaply yes, but that also applies to stick build homes.
Another difference is that the commercial outlet is rated as "self-grounding." This is important in older buildings where the armor of the BX cable is used to ground the system, thus there is no ground wire running in the walls. (This is out of code everywhere these days, but if it was in code when your building went up that is what you'll find.) Even though in the cheaper outlet the ground slot is riveted to the mounting strap the cheaper outlet is not considered self-grounding, as there is no guarantee of good electrical connection between the mounting screw and the mounting plate. The commercial outlet has a brass retaining plate on one of the mounting holes, which helps make a strong electrical connection from the outlet to the mounting screw to the wall box, and thus to the armor of the in-wall cable. Living in a building that went up in the early 60s I only use commercial or better grade outlets when the original, 60 year old, outlets need replacing. The next grade up from commercial is hospital grade, which are built even stouter.
This really got my attention. A friend moved into a 1950's house which had non-grounding outlets. Another handyman replaced them with the 3-hole outlets, but I wondered if she knew what she was doing. I didn't, but am trying to learn about electrical stuff on the quick. I believe the commercial grade outlet is the best solution and answer to this situation. Thanks.
@@Rextrent I would be careful if the house wasn't originally wired with a ground wire and the old 2-prong outlets were just swapped out for 3-prong outlets. There are solutions to this issue but you should probably reach out to a licensed electrician in your area to better understand the options and ensure the outlets are wired safely and up to code.
My house was built in 1954; added to in the 70s, and again in the 80s. It's really three codes in one house. When I bought it, there were no grounded outlets in the 1954 part of the house. As I repaint, I replace the outlets with grounded outlets and ground through a pigtail from the outlet to box and the BX cable. Not code, but grounded none-the-less. Had I watched this video and read your comment before all that, I would have bought the commercial grade hardware and saved myself the hassle of constructing pigtails. But, I've still got a few outlets/switches to do...so: Thank-you.
Having owned and managed 46 apartments for 18 years I have seen what this video is talking about. I started using the commercial grade outlets too. The heavily used outlets frequently had cracks and black arcing marks. Some had brown over heating marks. Since outlets are daisy chained a lousy outlet over used can interrupt a whole chain of outlets.
A loose outlet can overheat, starting a fire which creeps up INSIDE the wall. If the renter is not at home, a huge fire can get going before anyone notices it. Most house fires are caused by worn-out outlets.
@@jennifurzoe1302 Nope, not it you have a competent investigator. If you can't prove your hypothesis on where it started, the ignition source, first fuel ignited, and the failure mode or circumstances that brought the ignition source and fuel together, the fire is considered undetermined. I agree that in decades past electrical kinda became the default cause for lack of anything better but those days are long gone.
@@rollingtones1 I suppose if it were wired with the paper insulation surrounding the ground wire left loose inside the junction box it could have that chance of igniting and getting up and out. Is that paper flame retardant at all? What else in the wiring and walls is flammable? As mentioned, ignition source and fuel are both necessary.
For my self repair work in my own house and out buildings I ALWAYS use the better grades of outlets. Why? Because, my personal time and labor is the same for cheaper quality as for the higher quality. If I'm spending that time, I don't want to have to spend it again in a few years. I want to do it once and not have to touch it again. So, higher grade should allow me to do that.
Well done. I really appreciate you cutting into the outlets and letting us take a look inside. My house is about 60 years old and I just replaced one of the outlets in my daughter's room. It was amazing to see how much better the new outlet holds onto the plugs. Now after watching your video I understand why. It was not even a thought to me that loose-fitting plugs are a result of worn, cheap outlets. Now I think I need to go and change out all the other outlets in my house. Again, thank you!
I personally like the better grade ones that have the clamps that work with up to #12 (or 14). I hate having to wrap wires around the terminal screws as to do it right takes a bit of time (at least for someone without years of experience). Nice comparison video, I always wondered about the actual internal guts.
@@lawnmowerdude 100% CORRECT. This clown making this video really is a toad. He doesn't understand much about anything when it comes to electricity. This video is probably going to do more damage than good.
If you're lucky, they'll read the back of the box and try to think of an explanation. If they had experience with home repair they wouldn't be working at a hardware store. They just put the product on the shelves.
@@mariokarter13 I say that all the time! You can a gauge a person skill level by the wage the make, generally speaking. I just roll my eyes when my wife start asking the Home Depot employees advice. No disrespect just truth.
@@kcb5336 It's really just common sense... ( something that is becoming less and less common these days)... If the outlet is going behind the couch with just a small table lamp plugged into it, never being unplugged perhaps for years, the 50 cent outlet will be perfectly adequate. If it's going into your work shed with tools being constantly plugged in and unplugged and a space heater used in it when it's cold...For sure get the heaviest duty outlet available. The only thing I ever ask a hardware store clerk is where in the store I can find what I'm looking for. They usually know. If it's management and you ask what's best, they will always tell you that you absolutely need the most expensive one they sell. I do all my research, to know what I need, on line. I just go to the store to buy. Never, ever take advice from a salesman.
@@kcb5336 When Home Depot first opened in Canada, there was almost always at least one former or retired tradesperson in each department, and they were paid accordingly. There were a lot of people whose house was paid off, had some savings, and wanted to pick their grandkids up after school, but weren't ready to sit in a rocking chair all day. You could get really good advice for free. Of course, the shareholders were offended by having empowered employees and customers. Unfortunately, there are a lot of customers who shop there entirely because they want to feel superior to and bully retail workers, so it was a successful strategy for them. If I can't find something at a locally owned place, there is a different big box construction store I will shop at, because at least they have enough employees to help you find things, and give them work time to watch the manufacturer's marketing videos. Oddly enough, management also has a better idea what customers want and how to keep their shelves stocked here as well.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to the hospital-grade comparison, as I have a few as-yet-uninstalled GFCI receptacles in hospital grade. I do remember inserting a plug in one of them just for kicks, and it seemed the receptacle gripped the prongs like a vise!!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hi- there are standards (UL, maybe?) that separates commercial, specification, and hospital grade wiring devices. The keys are number of insertion/removal cycles, mated connector retention, and amount of force required for un-mating, but there are others as well (dielectric strength of insulators, isolated grounds, physical robustness of the device, etc). I'm guessing that with a "G" search you can suss out the differences and confirm/deny specific sample conformity.
If you or anyone puts out a video and says something abought weight, the only way for someone to "SEE" the difference in the video would be to wiegh them so that someone can see the difference. I figured the guy already had scales or could get some to help him "SHOW" people the difference. The common person would then see that the one is much more sturdy or built better. As somoene that works in construction, telling someone something and showing them or having them hold something is very different. Just yesterday I pounted out the difference in 2 adapters here in Afghanistan. He could tell the one was much heavier and sturdier than just by holdig them.
Excellent video. I always use the heavy duty commercial grade receptacles, worth the extra price. I was surprised that you didn't mention the very convenient and useful Back-Wire Clamp connection feature of the commercial grade receptacle. Its much easier to simply insert the straight wire under the clamp and screw it down rather than have to bend a loop into wire so it wraps around the screw shaft. Also the Back-Wire system has provision for up to 4 circuit connections on the receptacle itself (except the ground terminal is usually limited to 1 wire) so up to 3 feed-thru wires can be in the box without the need to add bulky RED wire nuts or push connectors.
@@cmmartti Thanks for the tip. I've seen the lever style Wago connectors but never used them. I will get a few to try next time I'm out getting materials.
Been doing this for years...dollars are a consideration? Consider the better plugs in bath and kitchen, washer, dryer for gas and garage door opener...WHY? That's about 10 plugs in a house. They have the heavier amperage loads...hairdryers, toasters, microwaves, motors...a hidden plug above and behind the stove for the microwave definitely better grade...WHY? The heat factor above the stove or behind the stove or in the ceiling of a garage hot and cold will work against a poorer grade socket. REMEMBER they are all UL listed and meet that code.
All I can tell you is I wired my house myself 25 years ago and I used the 50 cent outlets and switches. So far, I have never had to replace any outlets and only 1 switch. It's interesting that 25 years ago, the prices for both types were about the same as they are today.
@ehoffsr Having watched contract manufacturing in several countries I'll say this: the buyer gets the level of quality that is contracted and for which the buyer has their own inspectors and contract enforcement officers in the factories. China, Mexico, USA, doesn't matter. Your iPhone and very likely any computer you own came in full or in part from China. Yes, crap can come from there, but that's because someone specified "crap quality" as the result of the price and enforcement.
i've got a 110 flux welder. i've plugged that bad boy in on my work bent and have welded off those cheap outlets i put on it. ran more than a few power tools off it with no issues. obviously i would have opted for something better if i have known the difference inside but they're working fine even for welding on my little welder. i honestly figured they were pretty much the same. what will really make ya cringe is i cut up an extension cord to wire it up. i prolly violated every code in the book on that little project lol. it's safe enough, nothing exposed, nothing loose and dangling. it'll be fine..
Considering it takes me about 10 minutes of my time to install or replace an outlet, the difference between $0.50 and $2.00 is nothing. I'll pay the $2.00 to never have to deal with that outlet again.
Here's one huge difference that wasn't mentioned... The commercial version has screw terminals on the sides that have a square washer/plate under them. This is to accommodate stranded wires which are much more common in commercial electrical than residential. It is not permissible to connect a stranded wire under a plain screw like you can with solid wire unless you first install a crimp terminal which is a hassle and time consuming.
That’s not true as far as I know. If you look up the specs on the commercial outlets you’ll see the back wire connections are rated for up to #10 stranded or solid. If this type of connection wasn’t allowed then you wouldn’t be able to use Square D QO breakers with solid wire either. And for the stranded wire under a screw that’s totally legal also. You’ll find nothing in the code book about it.
I believe any outlet installed today in a bathroom has to be GFCI per code as well. It may be only those within a certain distance of a water usage appliance or below a certain height, but I think for bathrooms now it's all of them. Just a note.
That GFCI outlet only needs to be in the first box in the circuit (read as only one per circuit allowed). I've seen GFCI outlet located in the garage, circuit then passes through the outdoor deck and into the powder room and finally up into the master bath. There were only cheap outlets on all the boxes after the garage. You can guess the garage was also a cheap 15A harbor frieght outlet. $1 Million production house.
@@KarlKoning Correct, bought a house where the plugs in bathroom were not working,,, tracked it back to a bad GFI...at beginning . I think bathrooms need to have dedicated GFI breaker, so no GFI plugs needed.
@@robertmccully2792 Not a bad idea as long as the breaker box is close by. A longer wire means a bigger/longer punch before the circuit breaks. AC doesn't take much to zap you. That is why they pop at
Wiring to the screw terminals on the economy outlet means hooking solid core wire like a candy cane and only putting one wire per screw. Wiring to the screw terminals on the commercial, the wire goes in straight (held between two plates) and you can put two wires per screw AND you can use stranded wire. To use stranded wire on the economy receptacle and comply with NEC would require a termination like a `U` or eye terminal.
@@natalieisagirlnow You don't pull solid core in conduit, so most outlets fed with conduit (most because there's always someone shoving 12-2 through EMT in their garage).
LoveTheSun And falling out plugs is not the real danger. As the author of this video mentioned, but in my opinion, could have stressed a lot more is: Loose connections cause resistance, resistance causes heat. Heat causes the connection to loosen up more. If the outlet has a significant load, there is a good chance of a fire occurring inside your wall. Very dangerous and the reason any loose outlets should be replaced immediately.
I played in a band and sometimes, we played in a place that has very old outlet that does not hold the plug. That is not good for the band when all sound systems suddenly shut off in the middle of a song due to power loss.
I have rentals for 40 years now. I do all the repairs and renovations. I only use the cheap outlets and never had a problem. The reason I use the cheap ones is because usually when the tenant leaves the apartment, I have to do some renovations. The outlets always look discolored and old if not painted over. I replace the outlets along with the renovation. The look of new is unbeatable.
@@yt66228 Your situation, I agree. And for rental and landlord, I agree, in 15 years, I have only experienced 3 failures on my 13 rentals. All my tenant is 5 to 10 years. I just buy the higher end because I am programmed that way. All dewalt and Milwaukee tools. FYI, this kitchen, I thought it was good, now in all 13 house, it leak every year and tentan like the looks. Glacier Bay Market Single-Handle Pull-Out Sprayer Kitchen Faucet in Stainless Steel
@@petersack5074 There's also that old saying in auto repair. _"Never enough time and money to do it right, but always enough time and money to do it again."_
I always put the commercial grade in my house. I like how well they last over time and I prefer working with them. This comparison completely skipped the difference in the terminals. I curse every time I have to disconnect wires that were pushed in to the back of cheaper outlets and switches, I find them to be a pain. I find the commercial outlets make it easier to clamp the wire in place and all you have to do is strip a short section of straight wire to go under the little plate that is retained by the screw. No bending the wire into a hook is required. Between improved durability and better maintainability when working with the wires the commercial grade products have been a foregone conclusion for me for a while.
Agree Shaun, I touched on not using the push pins but you are right that I missed the built in plates on the commercial receptacles that are super handy for install.
What causes outlets to fail is heat, loose connections, and what your plugging into them, next time your plugging something into and outlet take a look at the prongs of whats your plugging in. Are they clean and shiney? Most of the time they old, dull, dark and corroded. This is where the heat comes from that causes the outlet contacts to loose there spring tension and start generating more heat and fail.
Residential outlets and electric switches are a joke. They shouldn't even be on the market. My house is 15 years old and many of the light switches have been replaced and a few outlets. My house was wired with leviton home grade. Never ever put that crap in your house when it's being built new. Get the spec grade. If it's not in the contract put it in the contract the electrical contractor must use spec grade components. On the overall cost of the home it's not going to add that much. If you are in an area where you need to run a small space heater definitely replace any outlet with spec grade and have someone with an IR camera look at every outlet on that same circuit or just go ahead and replace every outlet on that circuit and check the torque on the wiring. The house that you save from an electrical fire will be yours.
I would also recommend upgrading to 20 AMP circuits and outlets. So you never have to worry about pulling too much current from outlets running high load devices such as MiG welders, air compressors and plasma cutters. Not to mention various household devices.
@@blendy19 if your going to put a larger circuit breaker in your outlet you better make sure it matches the wire size in your house, not just your wire size in your breaker box. 20 amp breaker is ok for 12 gauge wire. If the wire has the yellow cover on it you have 12 gauge. If its white you have 14 guage wire or your wire is just old in which cause your better off staying with a 15 amp breaker....... there is not a big difference in how much electric you can safely pull through a 20 amp breaker as apose to a 15 amp breaker. It's about 300 watts. Not worth the cost of upgrading......... a space heater and vaccume cleaner pulls enough wattage on a single outlet that it's not recommended to have anything else plugged in while using it. They use a little less then a 15 amp outlet is rated for so a 20 amp is not needed. But again the wire size is what determines the size breaker you buy to use. Most breaker boxes come with 15 amp breakers. If you did not wire your house and it is old. It is common to have 12 guage wire going into your electrical breaker box. It is also common to have only 14 guage wire ran between your ceiling light and light switches. If you didn't wire the house then you maybe causing a fire hazard by switching out a 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker just because the wire running into your breaker box is 12 guage.
I've never seen a switch or outlet fail except when severely physically abused so I don't think the practical difference is that great. However if you are having someone else do the work definitely have them use spec grade as it's nothing compared to the labor cost. If you're DIYing it the cheapies would be more acceptable because you can swap them out quickly enough if necessary. Even if you use some cheap resi grade outlets around the house definitely consider spec grade in high-use areas like the kitchen where you have high loads and move around appliances like mixers and blenders.
The basic outlets are “contractor grade” and allow a house to be wired cheaply. They are UL compliant but not very durable. The others are “spec grade” and are definitely more durable. Opt for the better grade where feasible.
This video is being done by someone who knows very little about what he talks …and he admits to it …yet compiles a video as if he knows something ….!?!?!?! ….be very careful people. First, this $0.50 vs commercial comparison is garbage …right from square one. I will go with “standard duty and heavy duty” ….but this is purely a design difference. BOTH OUTLETS ARE UL AND CSA CERTIFIED ….MEANING THEY WILL BOTH FUNCTION JUST FINE REGARDLESS OF WHAT THIS GUY IS SAYING. When this clown starts talking about “weight”, he does not provide any weight details …nothing more than just “probably about half the weight” …even though in fact the “lighter one has a metal center piece ….and then talks about the thickness of the “plates” ….which are called contacts ….and again, says they are “two to three times thicker” …and still does not take any measurements to prove he is correct. And the plastic housing is either “thicker” or “denser” ????? WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU SAYING????? Then the talk is about the design of the metal structure …and nothing but opinion. Nothing actually tested, but rather a reference to “recalling the face separating from the base” ….in your dreams buddy. I don’t think you are qualified to make any statements about twisting and failure. Then more story-telling about deformation on the sockets allowing the plugs to fall out. I have NEVER heard of this before let along experienced any such thing on ANY wall receptacle. Then the explanation about an “external arm that applies the pressure …” …summary, “a better design”, “standing up to many more cycles” ….so now he is a designer? LAUGHABLE. REMEMBER …..THIS IS JUST FOR “ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES” …..THIS GUY IS CERTAINLY NO ENGINEER. A “weekend warrior” is NOT someone to be paying any attention to. He is looking for a topic to garner some attention. Nothing more …and maybe make some money …..”please subscribe to ME”. Just an additional FYI ….the likelihood that any recepticles are made in the U.S. is more like ZERO. Manufacturing in the U.S. could NEVER make an affordable receptacle no matter how automated a production line is. There are Leviton factories of all kinds in 86 countries. So the guy who said he worked at Leviton for 25 years …sure he did, but it was over 25 years ago that he retired. That factory is long, long, long, GONE.
@@taxicamel Most of this is a bit off the subject but...You mentioned a mfg regarding products made in the USA. I do not know which products that mfg does or does not make in the USA, but it has been headquartered in the USA for around a 100 years which helps assure users that its products are safe and reliable. I purchased some low-priced Decora-style (non-Leviton) outlets from a big-box store that did even make reliable contacts. Quality issues with the wall switches, too. I could hardly believe it. That was a good learning lesson- don't buy no-name crap on things that could have serious consequences if they fail.
@@integr8er66 Yes, there are circuit breakers. But why not have superior quality electrical outlets as well, especially as it's an added layer that can't hurt.
@@Watcher3223 Because of COST, better isn't always needed, why not always drink from a $50 yetti cup too? well because I just wanted a drink of water and there were paper cups available. Same reason I buy Harbor Freight and not Milwaukee. does the Milwaukee last longer, sure, does it last 10 or 12 times longer because it costs 10 or 12 times more? No. I have these receptacles all over, never had any problems with them.
Being a retired Journeyman Electrician, please know that the National Electrical Code is just that....NATIONAL.. It applies across all states. Period. Individual states cannot change the code to their liking. Now understand that the NEC establishes baseline standards that must be adhered to. Individual states or even municipalities can ADD TO those standards to make them more strict, but cannot arbitrarily chose to follow or NOT follow the NEC base guidelines. Loved this video though !! Well done, and a really great job on this !! Very helpful to MANY seeking answers.
Actually the NEC is merely a recommended standard developed by a private NGO. (NFPA). No states are required to follow it or any other code standard. Code standards are adopted at the state level in whatever way they deem appropriate. While technically true that no state can "change the NEC", many states adopt it "with state ammendments". These ammendments often do remove certain requirements from that states requirements. (i.e. NC removed AFCI requirements from residential kitchens and laundry areas for the 2017 code cycle).
I've been using commercial grade as replacements for decades because they really do last longer. I've seen too many fires started due to arcing from broken contacts in cheap outlets.
The commercial grade you have there can handle four wires on each side, which means you don't have to pigtail when you have more than two wires on each side, which saves a lot of time and effort. (In some places, pigtailing might be required by code, or at least people think it is. And, some people think you should always pigtail, regardless. Whatever.) Another advantage with the commercial one is that it accepts straight wires, so you don't have to bend in a hook, again saving time and effort.
@@natalieisagirlnow It's about competency and communication. If you ask or answer questions with the wrong terminology, it can then be assumed that you don't know what you are doing. Of course further clarification can rectify the situation, but you fail in the interim. Do you realize that the Apollo 13 near disaster was due to a miscommunication about a 36volt heater in an O2 tank vs. a 24 volt heater? Minor miscommunication nearly resulted in the loss of 3 lives. My initial post was never meant as a petty point of contention, merely a possible point of interest to anyone with that kind of curiosity. Obviously you are not in that group that cares about or is affected by this subject. Take care & be well.
I'm not a professional electrician, but I enjoy working on this sort of stuff and learning along the way. I do care to know the appropriate terms and appreciate you pointing out the difference.
As a commercial electrician I have seen those problems and I never use cheap residential plugs in residential work. I always use commercial grade plugs when I do residential work
Why would they even make an option of push in back’s for 14 gauge wire with an outlet? It should only be made for 12 gauge wire, 14 gauge is for lighting, not outlets.
Hey Chris, these are 15 Amp outlets so you could use 14-gauge but many people have pointed to favoring 20 Amp outlets as much as possible which would need 12-gauge.
The price difference also reflects the ease of installation. All electricians do not use the stab-in feature. Btw in all residence you need to install tamper proof outlets changing your breaker out to afci if not already.
"twisting" could cause separation of the white cover... Actually, all you need is the mounting flange supported on top of drywall combined with pressure on the outlet near the location of the cover plate screw. That would cause the mounting flanges to pry the white cover away.
Another not so obvious issue is the plastic composition itself. Many of the materials today are being sourced from China and while they MAY meet minimal chemical specifications, they will have a high failure rate, especially over time. This may contribute to the facing/body separation issue but I have seen many internal failures where the plastic fails (to brittle) and allows the internal shorting / heating failures. I'm disappointed that the NFPA is allowing these products to be continued in our country.
So true. My house was only 6 years old when I bought it. Nice house, but all the lights/switches/outlets etc were "builder grade". Nothing particularly dangerous or bad...just cheap. Over the years I have replaced all of them with the higher grade Levitons. Buying them 1 or 2 at a time, while you are already at HD/Lowes, the expense is nothing. But to me, the peace of mind is priceless.
The NEC is mandatory in most states and some states will just adopt a version of it and doesn't bother to enforce updated codes. However most Electricians will use the updated code to cover their ass.
@@lelandclayton5462 True. I'd add the many local codes will expand upon or fortify the NEC. Such as in this case our local code requires "Making stranded conductors solid" at points of connection.
I am a plumber by trade and the national code is the bare minimal that is acceptable. But lots of cities or states/provinces will take it a step further and say that is not always good enough we want a higher minimal in our area. Or for example the national code says minimal insulation needed is x amount and in Texas that is fine. But Montana being colder wil say no here we need to see a minimal of x plus y so there code says it has to be z
An important feature that you failed to mention is that the receptacle on the left is a self-grounding receptacle by virtue of the visible spring-style grounding strap at the one end of the yoke. As an electrical engineer, this feature alone will immediately increase the cost of the receptacle by virtue of the electrical engineering architecture that goes into the self-grounding receptacle in order to make it more robust so that it can accommodate the spring-style grounding strap.
Good info. I have a few rental houses and for switches and receptacles that I know will get a lot of use (kitchen, bathrooms, hallways) it makes sense to use commercial grade. For everywhere else that won’t get much use, standard is fine.
As someone who used to be a licensed electrician, 99% of the time the cheap ones work totally fine and will last a very long time. There is no real need to buy the more expensive commercial grade ones unless code dictates it. But why the grounding difference? It’s because residential grade is designed where it’s not ally going to be inside a plastic box while commercial work is generally all don’t with metal boxes so that bar ensures a better connection to the metal boxes. But.... if wired properly, that shouldn’t be an issue. Also, I agree those push connections are terrible and should never be used. My house had all outlets wired like that and I could literally just pull most of the wires out of the old outlets. While commercial outlets are technically more durable, odds are most people will never see the difference. For me, it’s not worth the cost to upgrade all my outlets to commercial but there were a few I did. Like my outlets to have window AC units that I redid with metal boxes and are 20A circuits and a couple outlets in the kitchen where things are constantly in and out.
Randall Smith It’s definitely a possibility that outlets at the a lot of vacuum use will end up loose over time. The thing is though, I would say probably 15 years ago or so they were changes made to how newer outlets are made because of certain code requirements actually addressing that situation where they would become loose. If you were to look inside an outlet made maybe 20 years ago opposed to one made only 12 years ago, you’re going to see a big difference in how the inside is constructed I would be willing to bet that a lot of the ones you’re seeing lose that see a lot of vacuum use art of the older type that just don’t hold up as well
@@epoc162 good point. Our house was built in 2003, and a couple of the hallway outlets are loose. Maybe a bit abused by the previous owner’s vacuum cleaning practices! 😀. Still, they are not as loose as I remember my parents’ house had when I was growing up.
If the outlets are loose and you notice the plugs are getting warm after use, it's time to replace them- the box of 10 outlets are $10 and would be fine. They're the tamper proof shutter covered ones, which I'd just as soon not have, as I don't need the shutters myself, but that's all they seem to sell nowadays.
Use the cheap ones if your flipping the house or don't plan to stay in it long. Trust me no one buys a property because the outlets are high quality or high priced. More worried about how the couch looks in the living room.
A good home inspector "might" find a loose fitting outlet and "might" report it. A new one would be hard to find, but an old one "might" shown some signs of heat.
Cheap parts have their place. I just replaced the headlight lenses on my 1994 Ford Focus with the cheapest available. However, the combination of fire danger, electricity, installing them in your home, and a difference of $1.50 each suggests to me that the nice outlets would be a worthy upgrade for almost everybody.
Depends on how often the outlet gets used if at all, and what kind of load it's taking. For a small bedside lamp which never gets unplugged and is mostly inaccessible behind a nightstand, then a $0.50 outlet should do the job just fine. Any benefits of a $2 outlet would never be noticed or needed. But for heavily used kitchen outlets, or outlets with heavier loads such as for appliances, then it may be worth the extra $1.50.
I bought my home in 1987. Spent the next couple of years swapping out the "el cheapo" outlets for "spec grade". Expensive ? Yes. Problems ? No. Also documented every electrical load (outlet, light, washer, dryer, refrigerator, freezer, etc.) went to which circuit breaker at the service entrance. This made it really easy when I had a standby generator installed (with automatic transfer switch) to tell the installer which circuits were to be powered up by the generator.
Nice breakdown, never bothered to take them apart. I own an apartment complex made in the late 80's and I've been replacing all the old outlets (which are often loose) with commercial grade ones. I find the expensive ones (I use an Arrow Hart flavor) install in less than half the time and given they hold up better will let me avoid wasting over an hours worth of time in the future replacing yet another outlet and annoying a tenant. I spend a little more, save hours worth of time and have happier tenants. Well worth it!
Hey Matt, first off congrats on the apartment complex. I am a fan of REI and like that you get your hands dirty taking care of the place. Yeah, I also have switched over to commercial grade for my properties.
I replaced/upgraded all my outlets a couple years ago with the 'residential' design. Had I known about the more robust 'commercial' grade design, I would have spent the extra money.
Great Video (From someone that has installed 100's of outlets but I don't consider myself an electrician) this re-afirms in a huge way, I've been spending my money wisely as I only install the commercial ones! Just like in your price comparison, the 35.00 for the whole project it cost (would have) you, it's worth it just to save one possible failure. Thanks
First off. When it comes to plugs and the connection is how you make up the wires. If you don’t wire nut the connections and leave a tail to hook to the plug your asking for trouble. Using the plug as the pass through is bad. Been doing electrical work for twenty years. Have put on thousands of plugs using the holes in the back of the standard plug. But I alway made up my plugs. Nothing wrong with using the commercial grade or 20 amp rated plugs but it’s kinda a waste of money. Most of the failed plugs I have come across fail do to heaters or to many devices plugged into a cheap device that lets you plug in 6 items.
When given a choice of items of different grades, I never go for the worst (cheapest) option. It may be totally unnecessary in some people's opinion, but I just can't fathom installing a $0.50 receptacle in my home. Commercial all the way!
There is an old saying, "Be penny wise and pound foolish" So is your life/house, worth saving the difference of $1.50? I don't skimp on my electric parts, wires/outlets, so don't have to worry about them catching fire! You can pinch your pennies elsewhere!
No one's going to recommend the lesser quality electrical item but remember there's thousands of not millions of "residential" outlets out there without any problems
I agree if you add the word "yet". My house was built in 1956 and there are a couple of original outlets left, they have almost no plug retention so I don't use them. Since they're 2 wire outlets I'll be replacing them with GFCI outlets.
Hey dude...both of those outlets should be UL listed... all homes can use both and houses aren't burning down because of it like they use to !! The primary difference between the two is...one is approved for strained and solid wire while the less expensive is approved for solid wire only! For the less expensive...strained wire can be used if you use a required spade lug to connect! You cannot wrap the strained wire around the screw...aka code violation per NEC !!
You also need to think about your use case. Are you a business owner that will pay an electrician $200 to replace an outlet? Or are you a home owner that can do it yourself in a few minutes? If you don't want to do it yourself if it does fail, that extra $1.50 is like insurance against a $200 electrician bill. Are you a home builder who wants to minimize warranty work? As with most things in life, labor is the real cost. Trying to minimize labor cost is key unless you do the labor yourself.
@@erikkovacs3097 Someone correct me if I'm wrong but: Isn't mixing metals bad when dealing with electrical components because galvanic corrosion will cause one of the metals to rust at the point of contact?
After watching this video, there is no reason whatsoever not to buy the commercial grade outlet. I can't believe they sell the "residential" outlet that is more prone to failure and death. If you need 67 outlets for your appartement or house you save only $ 100 by selecting the "residental" outlet. And $ 100 is nothing in this context, compared to the cost of a appartement /house and benefits of safety and longevity.
I never put much thought into the $0.50 outlets (which are actually $0.37 each In the 10 pack from our Home Depot!). I’ll be stocking up on the commercial ones in the future for my customers.
Homeowner, but also with a lot of experience in electronics. It has been my practice for at least a couple of decades, to ALWAYS replace consumer-grade outlets and switches with commercial grade, for all of the reasons you gave. A beefier product will always last longer and is always safer than a cheap thing that WILL fail. Plus the commercial grade rarely has the tamper resistant feature, a benefit for us older retired folks with zero rug-rats. (Besides, WE managed to survive childhood without them.) What really gets me irate though is when I am staying in an older hotel, motel or vacation property that was built with cheap receptacles. They get FAR more use & wear out very quickly because they often appear to be residential grade!!! Think about it. At home I may plug something in and leave it there for years. In a hotel people are plugging & unplugging EVERY DAY!
Hey Mr Payne, I totally agree and hotels are the classic example. Especially trying to plug in the little 2-prong plugs to charge your phone and then they literally just fall out of the outlet. All the best and Happy Holidays.
I bought a condo, and several of the outlets, when I plugged something in, would just fall out. I replaced with these _better_ outlets, and 25 years later, still nice and tight.
I always go with the commercial for everything (or even better,, go with industrial or hospital). You want that quality even more so in peoples homes where you have children people sleeping, etc. The commercial/residential differentiation makes no sense whatsoever. You don't want to put the cheaper, less well built stuff into your home with something so dangerous. The US has the worst designed sockets anywhere. Look at the British and European style sockets and you will find them to be far more solidly built, overengineered, with more safety features such as half insulated prong which prevents electrically charged prong being exposed during insertion, etc. You don't want to take a bad design like the US outlet and then make it worse with a cheapo outlet.
Thanks for the feedback James. I was a bit disappointed by the Commercial "Plus+" Leviton Switches. Didn't see much in terms of differences on the inside. ua-cam.com/video/X8Y_LRqyYcg/v-deo.html
Much the same goes in Australia as in Europe (though with different plugs); you can get better/worse *brands* but residential and commercial environments use the same fittings. Certainly the contacts in Clipsal (our leading brand) outlets (or power-points as we tend to call them) look comparable to the commercial Leviton. I can't say I've had much trouble with wall outlets here; it's mainly in power-strips/boards where corners are cut. Anyway, given a hypothetical choice between AFCIs+resi outlets, or commercial outlets without AFCIs, I'd take the latter option in a heartbeat.
If $2.00 for each outlet in your home is too dear. At least use commercial for outlets that you plug and unplug a lot, like the outlets in your kitchen or plug your vacuum into every week.
In my basement shop, I always used 20A plugs and #12 wire. That way I never had to worry if I needed to put a real load on it for a short period. I did the same in the kitchen and bath circuits. In the bed room i didnt mind going cheap.
Fifty cents for a contractor grade receptacle or two dollars for a commercial grade receptacle? There's an old saying. The quality remains long after the purchase price is forgotten.
Thank you so much for posting this. I want to note please run the other way from chinese knockoffs too. Do not go cheap when it comes to something so important. I have seen all of the above issues with cheap outlets. Loss of life is not worth it. In my opinion the cheap ones should not be legal. Nor should the push in connections.
As a state licensed C10 electrical contractor, of eight years and a journeyman electrician for about 30 years, both commercial/industrial and residential experience, I will say you did a very good job in describing and showing the differences in a cheap receptacle (outlet) and a higher quality device. Those are still only basic receptacles, as you pointed out. There is National code in place and almost every state and city enforce the code for use of TR, tamper resistant, receptacles. That type make it difficult if not nearly impossible for a child / toddler to stick anything into the slots of the device protecting the person from electrical shock. This type of receptacle should be installed everywhere except where a GFCI or GFCI / AFCI receptacles are required. Keep up the good work on your videos
They make it virtually impossible to plug anything in is what they do. Much like the gas can spouts actually cause spills as opposed to the old spouts. Stupid new ideas are not better just stupid.
@@scoutmaster33 --- you are not wrong saying that. The tamper resistant receptacles can be very difficult for anyone to plug something into, even the proper male cord end. But, the main function of the National Electrical Code (NEC), clearly states at the beginning of the code book, the purpose of the NEC is the practical safeguarding of people and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity. Underwriters Laboratory's (UL) approval for devices and materials, used in the manufacturing of electrical products, has their own requirements. Then the installation and use of those products, by a qualified person in a professional and workmanlike manner, all make electricity so safe that, people don't even think about the lights not coming on when the switch is turned on or the possibility of their computer or their coffee maker, not working or electrocution when pushing the power button or plugging in a hair dryer or a phone charger. But there is a constant threat to people's lives and property by a living, moving, invisible, rarely making a sound, has no smell, it lives in the air, in water, in solid ground and most all metals and elements are transformed by it, in both positive and negative ways, and is not even fully understood, but we've temporarily harnessed it to work for us as long as we have respect for it and use it safely. Most people have never seen someone who has been electrocuted, or been shocked, or had a tool or device short out and see the sparks and flames and flashes of lightning or arcs from even regular household voltage. Or watch a UA-cam video that shows the opening of the switch for a substation. I'll find a link and post it here. It is crazy. Here is one short video link and there are many more videos that show electrical failures, etc.... ua-cam.com/video/iW90XX7rjbc/v-deo.html I watch them every year or so just to remind me that what I'm doing everyday is very very dangerous. All people should know that men and women die almost everyday providing people with the convenience of having electricity in their home.
@@13_13k as an electrical engineer I’ve been around motor manufacturing my entire career. Have to take annual arc flash safety training so I’ve seen most of the final moments of life scenes in the videos. Been involved with accident/near miss investigation on several occasions and you are correct the code is to make it as safe as possible for people who have no clue how electricity works to use it. Mostly work in higher three phase voltages up through 22KV although we do some testing through 50KV. The purpose of listings like UL, CE, etc it to provide a minimum level of safety in products so they are “safe” to use because as so often happens they end up shaving off quality to reduce cost until it often literally blows up in someone’s face. Went to the link and the “lightning” was pretty spectacular however that is how they normally operate the heat from the arc causes it to rise making the arc longer until it extinguishes itself my dad was an Electrical Engineer for a utility and transmission stations. I actually got to touch a 345KV line as a student in a test lab for an IEEE tour. Purpose was to demonstrate the shock you get due to the distance charge principle the further you reach out to grab it the bigger the shock when you touch it. Now keep in mind this was isolated from ground so the shock was fairly low voltage. We all then went to the viewing area where they faulted it to ground literally vaporizing a 1/4x2 aluminum bar in the process. The “explosion” of vaporizing metal is not something you’ll ever forget after seeing it live....
@@scoutmaster33 --- you fully understand what I'm talking about. The link to the disconnection of the substation switch was just basic visual for people who have never seen an arc flash, so they get an idea of just what kind of power goes through transmission lines to supply their home and workplace. I spent 16 years as a journeyman wireman in the IBEW doing commercial and industrial electrical work mostly new construction of high rises, hospitals, sports stadiums, laboratories, in the Silicon Valley building Google, Yahoo, Intel, Applied Materials, 3Com, Cisco, NASA, GE mock Nuclear Power Plant, Stanford hospital, Stanford Stadium, S.F.Giants Stadium, just to name a few of the jobs. I usually was the one or one of the 2 or 3 men that started the job when it was just a hole in the ground and we set temp power for the steel workers and we would start the underground pipework and the electrical vaults and the main electric room for the building. I set the switchgear and transformers, and then set up the pulls for all the building feeder wires usually 500mcm wire or 650mcm or 750mcm once in a while. 5 wires, sometimes 10, and each wire is the diameter of a roll of U.S. Quarter Dollar coins and weighs about 2 pounds per foot of length. I've actually had to climb inside a large 10,000 amp 1000 volt main switchgear while it was live to land the new set of 350 mcm feeder wires on an 800 amp 3 pole 3 phase circuit breaker. The heat and the vibration in a large electric equipment room can be very high and the ions in the air are charged making the hair on your arms stand up. Sweating profusely from the heat generated, scared for your life and the lives of your tool partner(s) there with you handing me tools and parts, and concentration as deep and focused as you've ever had to do because one wrong move, one dropped wrench, or something grounded touching me accidentally like the whole frame of the switchgear I'm working in, and me touching something live like the bussbar or an exposed metal button or zipper getting close enough for an arc to jump and I'd be dead before I knew I fucked up. Dead is the best result in an electrical accident. You won't want to live after being cooked from the inside out by your blood and the water our bodies are made of boiling and then the molten steel, aluminum, copper, plastic, etc... shrapnel exploding into your body as the flash of fire as hot as the sun engulfs you for just an instant faster than the blink of an eye. Any clothing or jewelry or tools on your body melt and stick to your burnt body. All that is going through your head until you start doing the actual work then you have to clear your head of everything except getting the job done and not making any mistakes, every move and every breath is taken slowly and methodically watching clearances between anything energized and yourself and your tools in your hands. You know when you are doing a dangerous job when the protocall to work on a live circuit breaker panel is to have to wear fireproof Nomex jacket gloves, faceshield etc... but when it requires one other journeyman wireman to stand about five feet away from you while you work, and he has a 6ft long fiberglass Shepard's hook and his job is to just watch and use that hook to pull your body off the live wires or switchgear when you are hung up being electrocuted. That makes you a very humble person who had better have kissed their wife and kids that morning before going to work every day. When you face death every day at work at any minute during your every day job, it makes you appreciate a lot of things that most people never think about. It also makes you realize you need to enjoy your life away from work as much as possible.
Having worked for 25+ years in the factory that made these receptacles I have some knowledge about the differences. I retired about 15 years ago but some things haven’t changed much. The basic receptacle is a great value for the price when you consider the cost of brass, steel, urea (plastic), machinery, dies, etc. Until the 1980’s these were nearly hand assembled by my mother and hundreds of other Leviton workers in Rhode Island. Over the years the assembly lines were automated so one person then oversaw what six people used to do. The company was not making a financial killing on these receptacles, it was the volume that made it worthwhile. Keep in mind big box customers (aka Home Depot, etc.) and distributors to big housing developers wanted the least expensive device and would buy from Chinese competition if they didn’t get their price point.
IMO if this basic receptacle is installed correctly and you don’t frequently plug/unplug things into it, the receptacle will last forever. Lots of people will move into a home and plug in the floor lamp, tv, toaster oven, etc. and leave it that way for a decade. For that kind of use I think the basic receptacle will last forever. However if you frequently plug/unplug tools, appliances, etc. into a receptacle then getting a Spec grade receptacle makes sense. For the typical homeowner the Commercial/Industrial/Hospital grade wiring device is a waste of money. It would be akin to buying a Viking professional stove to boil water for a pot of spaghetti.
With each change in ‘grade’ the component materials do change. For example the basic receptacle uses urea for the ‘plastic’ parts. Higher grades of receptacles use nylon. The basic receptacle uses solid brass terminals (no they are not plated steel), higher grades may use phosphor bronze. The cradle type strap costs more than the pass-through strap, the brass grounding contacts on the strap costs money to make and attach, etc. The higher quality receptacles have much lower sales volume, so the fixed cost of tooling has to be spread over fewer units. And those extra components means more labor costs to assemble. Some items have such low sales volume that it is hard to justify the upfront cost to automate. And yes, with higher quality often means a higher profit margin.
Hey Roy, awesome info! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience with the manufacturing process and materials used for the different grades of receptacles. Happy New Year!
I don't know why this post doesn't have a thousand upvotes. Thank you
"My mom made those" ... awesome to hear stories like that. Thank you.
@@jharuni As a teenager while in high school I worked at Leviton for two summers sweeping floors, filling assembly line bins with parts, stacking boxes on pallets, etc. A few years later while attending college I returned for a night shift job in the parts warehouse and stayed with the company for 25+ years. By the time I took very early retirement I had worked on the factory floor, warehouse, production planning, cost engineering, and finance dept which monitored the budget of 15 factories in the USA and Mexico. So you could go a long way at Leviton, which was and remains a family company. I remember old-timers in the factory kidding me, as I walked through the factory in white shirt and tie, that they were at my baptism.
It was the kind of company that when the owner, Mr. Leviton, came up from the New York corporate office to visit our factory lots of the older Portuguese women who were on the assembly line would stop and give him a hug. Leviton sponsored hundreds of their family members wanting to immigrate to the USA with a guarantee of a job when they arrived. I heard stories of many of them, parents and children, working all the shifts/hours they could. A year after arriving in the USA the father would buy a house and pay for it in cash, no mortgage.
My dad worked for Leviton just before WWII, and again in the Brooklyn factory when he returned from combat (Pacific Theatre), and later offered him a job in Rhode Island when he got married. Factory foremen would kid me about my mom as she would stop the assembly line if a brass part didn't fit just right in the plastic base, or if there was dust on a batch of receptacles otherwise ready for packaging. Lots of great memories and wonderful people at Leviton.
This is exactly why I used the commercial grade for my shed/workbench, and the residential in my home. The workplace outlets see a great deal more plugging/unplugging. Most in the house have had a lamp plugged in for years, others may get something once a week. The kitchen outlets are used a lot, but those are most GFI. When you count the number of outlets in a home and realize that they will not be mechanically stressed as much as in a workplace, it makes economic sense to use the less expensive option.
Retired now but spent 40 plus years doing electrical. You made a excellent video and showed the comparison very well. One thing I might add is any outlet 15 amp or 20 amp when the appliance wants to fall down where it is plugged in due to being used a lot of course shows the plug needs replaced. The short story to that is loose plug creates low voltage (voltage drop) which on a fixed appliance causes higher current (heat) which can start a a fire. ( I started in 1978 wiring houses, then to commercial, and retired working on power lines and substations.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback. My dad spent his career as a lineman as well. Never saw a guy so happy to get a call in the middle of the night. Overtime Baby! Don't even get him started on multi-week trips for ice storms or hurricanes 🤑
I've used a combination of these outlets throughout my house. In outlets that I use very rarely, such as a single lamp that I almost never unplug, the cheaper grade has worked fine. However, any outlet that gets a lot more use of plugging in and out (garage, home office, etc.) I've utilized a commercial grade receptacle.
Anything that gets a lot of in and out and banging should be top quality and tight 😀
You are ninja
@@privacyatty - We all can appreciate a tight receptacle.
@@drboze6781 : Read so many ways. ;-)
Exactly! The outlets in my house that are worn out are the ones used by the cleaning service twice a month.
I'm a believer in the concept called "false economy." A well-made product that costs four times the price of the inexpensive product but lasts ten times longer is worth the extra money.
What do you do for appliances? Seems like they are all cheaply constructed and you basically just dispose of them when anything fails.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you could just find the replacement part and install it. Calling the manufacturer helps a lot if you can’t find what you’re looking for on the interwebs
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I buy used appliances, or even get them for free on craigslist.
I've had great luck with Kenmore.
My first dryer was free 15 years ago and still works, but I've replaced the motor, belt, and a sensor at one point.
I'm only on my 4th washer, and my 3rd one is in my basement as a back up, because the house i bought already had a washer and dryer.
I've paid $60 for my washing machines total. My first was $35 and lasted 12 years. The second washer was free to me, and i gave it away because i got a practically brand new one for $25.
I'm 41 and the only brand new appliance I've ever bought was a dishwasher. I just can't justify a used one. Lol.
What sucks is that having nice, new, matching appliances is really nice.
My house came with a 2004 side by side fridge that still works just fine.
In my mudroom/laundry room i have my old 94' Kenmore fridge in use for extra room, that i got for $50, 5 year's ago.
My roughly 30 year old gas range that came with the house, works great, and i could probably use it and fix if needed the rest of my life.
But I've completely remodeled my kitchen, and it doesn't match at all!! Lol..
I'm probably going to buy a new one.
Sorry for the long winded babbling..
The older appliances were mostly made better and more easily repairable, but everyone loves pretty stuff
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I have six kids. We bought Speed Queen Washer and Dryer after our Bosch failed. Speed Queen are made in USA to a Commercial Spec.
Andrew Seamans my speed queen washer motor caught on fire. Had to buy a new machine before 2 years old. Disappointing because they claim it will last 10 years.
I have 40 yrs of experience in the electrical field and the 50 cent device does not fail that often. What normally causes the failure is wire stabbed into the back, and a space heater running on it. The heating/cooling loosens the contact and arcs/burns the receptacle into failure.
My sister's 1927 house had one outlet failure where she plugs the heater in and out. I made her throw the main circuit for me to replace it bc I don't work on hot wires. Rest of the wiring is good as gold. She has the knob and tube wiring. She was fussing about having to throw the main switch and I told her to hire a union man. IBEW yeah!
I want to thank you. I learned a lot and important things. I always have bought the more expensive ones but not sure why. Now I know. Thanks.
Thanks Rick!
I believe in over-engineering things to make them last, and I believe it worth paying extra so as to avoid breakage or avoidable risks. We do not really know in advance which outlets will be used for merely a clock-radio or lamp, or a heavy-current device such as a heater or air conditioner. So why not use better quality for everything?
💯
because the cost does add up. sometimes it's worth the cost though. sometimes it really wasn't. hard to say.
@@Layarion
It is generally better to over-engineer something, than to do a shoddy job. It is much easier to do it right the first time, than for a customer to have a problem that could have easily been prevented by installing stuff right or using better quality equipment.
And often those costs can be passed onto the customer anyway.
Why risk an outlet arcing or overheating, just because the customer plugged in too much power-consuming stuff. Why not use rugged reliable equipment?
Great job. Thank you. I'd like to add two fine points: (1) The added "convenience feature" of the push-in connections on the cheaper outlet is favored by some people, but it's not as much convenience advantage as you might think. The shape of the screw terminals on the commercial-grade outlet allows you to push the straight wire-end in under the screw and tighten it without having to bend it around the screw. Almost as easy as the unreliable push-in connection. (2) You described a short from hot to ground in the cheaper outlet. A similar short can also occur from neutral to ground, which would go undetected in normal operation, but could lead to 'ground-loop' problems with fault safety and induced hum.
The push in feature your talking about is referred to "Backstabbing" and are junk, as a master electrician i have seen and replaced countless number of these that have failed.
OldJoe C h
I got a first-hand lesson in outlets when I moved into my house in 2017. The house was built in 1994. Many of the outlets were failing - some had burn marks on the front, and many would no longer hold a plug properly. These were all cheap builder-grade outlets.
I've replaced every outlet (55!) with commercial grade outlets. I got nice commercial Legrand outlets, and I was able to pick up a 10-pack for around $13. Make sure you shop around - price differences between Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowe's were huge.
As an electrician all I can say is I don't have any device in my house that is not commercial grade. Cheap outlets suck ass.
Same here
I have started to live by the old adage “you pay for what you get”
Suck ass is that UL approved
I never leave home without tamper resistant.
Do you also have 12g everywhere too?
I just like the tactile feel of inserting a plug into a better quality outlet - the outlet firmly grips the prongs with a secure snap. I've noticed that most GFCI outlets using the Decora design do not have a secure snap when the plug is inserted. Those outlets I encounter in hotel bathrooms are almost always shot, barely gripping the plug.
I've stood in the aisle at the box store looking at the outlets trying to decide. This will definitely help me with those decisions! Thanks
@@creamwobbly I do. Spent 15 minutes this week deciding what brand load center to get.
Ended up with Square D, because they had nearly full stock for breakers. Eaton was bare.
@@JasonW. I have a GE load center with a mix of Square D and GE breakers in it because that’s what the big box store had. I would’ve liked a Square D or EATON panel though.
I like Square D (Schneider) as well as EATON’s Pow-r-Line panels.
@@creamwobbly What??
@@miket5506 I have 4 panels right now: GE main, Eaton sub jn house, now two Square D Homeline subs in shop outbuilding. I'd rather have QO but, breakers short on stock right now, and much more expensive.
I dislike the GE, and will probably replace it at some time.
Edit: also, all are plug on neutral except the GE. Wish they always came with neutral on breaker (PoN) for simplicity.
Its 120 VAC, so its always an easy decision for me. Go with the better built more expensive stuff.
The commercial receptacles should be mandatory in kitchens, basements, garages, etc. Anywhere where you're constantly plugging and unplugging. Residential are fine for other rooms.
in kitchens outlets with a braker built in are now mandatory in all New homes . This outlet is one of the best built also but expensive thus only used when law require it .
I think if you go with commercial anywhere in the project, you will ultimately save money by going commercial everywhere as no time will be spent making sure all receptacles are "correct."
I usually only use the expensive ones in my houses where I'm going to use the plug regularly. I've found that the cheap ones last just fine if they're only used occasionally. Plus these things are easily replaced if you have a problem. I would specify the better ones if I was paying a high dollar electrician to do the work.
Ps. If you think the low price plug shown in this video was cheaply made you should see the 40 + year old ones I replaced in an old manufactured home.
Yeah, at a minimum in a kitchen, garage or the easy-to-access plugs that a vacuum might get plugged in regularly should have the commercial ones.
Also a good idea to go tamper resistant.
@@sunriseshell tamper resistant is a bitch and a half to plug anything into. I’m sticking with plain old industrial grade. If the inspector doesn’t like it he can blow me 😆
@@miket5506 Don't disagree but having a toddler around made me rethink it.
I'm only moving furniture and crawling on the floor once. A $1.50 is cheap to assure that no one has to do that ever again.
I find it uncomfortable when someone is offering advice about technical matters, particularly when it involves basic matters such as electrical, and for liability reasons, states that everything (s)he’s saying is just entertainment. It’s not. It’s advice that’s being given about the matter being talked about. If someone is confident that what they’re saying is correct, then say so. If not, then don’t talk about it, if you’re not qualified to do so.
Despite qualifications that it’s just entertainment, there are people who will follow the advice being given, because that’s the way people are.
An example; There are commercial grade outlets that have push terminals. Usually those terminals have the wire pushed in, but then the screws are used to tighten the wire in place. These are fast and easy to use, but also hold the wire tightly.
I Built my own house!! Comm grade plugs. Wife after 20tyrs, she still bitches the plugs are to hard to plug in and pull out!!! haha Always something! ;-)) Peace!
My dad installed industrial grade Hubbell in his house. You know the rest
@@LuLu_World I did the same in 1983.
I had the same problem (hard to plug in and out) when I used 20 A rated GFCI's. The 15 A ones are friendlier.
It was for 20 A circuits in a kitchen.
you just have to tell her it's a nice problem to have. maybe wink or something afterwards.
Even more of a struggle with the tamper proof units! But still money well spent in my opinion.
In addition to less actual material going into the cheaper outlets, a big part of how they make a profit off of them is by not packaging them individually. The individual boxes in which they package the commercial grade outlets are actually a big expense. Not only because of the extra packing material, but because in the same case that holds a mere dozen boxed commercial outlets they can stuff 30 cheap ones, which saves on shipping costs.
Good point Dwayne, you are right to point out the cost save on logistics / shipping for the cheaper residential outlets.
The other logistic here is shelf/storage space in the store. One order gets 3x as many items into the store's same storage and show space. Much like 'bag your own screws' out of the bins vs 'bags with a few screws each' on the display.
If you think the 35cent ones are cheaply made take a look at what goes in mobil homes and the switch's are even worse.
Aluminum wiring or aluminum with copper tips?
Not true. I stay in a mobile home and it was a top of the line model. Many of the switches and outlets are better than what you can buy now even. The switches still snap/click like a new one, which the.snapping/clicking is a good thing safety and load wise. Not to mention most now are being build with the same if not stricter requirements now for stuff like plumbing and electrical because of the fact they are moved. Was there a time and are some still built cheaply yes, but that also applies to stick build homes.
Hey man. I live in a mobile home 😳
@@wb3161 hows the miles per gallon on it?
@@jennifurzoe1302 I’ve had it for almost 16 years and I’ve not used a drop of fuel yet
Another difference is that the commercial outlet is rated as "self-grounding." This is important in older buildings where the armor of the BX cable is used to ground the system, thus there is no ground wire running in the walls. (This is out of code everywhere these days, but if it was in code when your building went up that is what you'll find.)
Even though in the cheaper outlet the ground slot is riveted to the mounting strap the cheaper outlet is not considered self-grounding, as there is no guarantee of good electrical connection between the mounting screw and the mounting plate. The commercial outlet has a brass retaining plate on one of the mounting holes, which helps make a strong electrical connection from the outlet to the mounting screw to the wall box, and thus to the armor of the in-wall cable.
Living in a building that went up in the early 60s I only use commercial or better grade outlets when the original, 60 year old, outlets need replacing. The next grade up from commercial is hospital grade, which are built even stouter.
Very thorough explanation Elliot and I really appreciate you taking the time. 👍
This really got my attention. A friend moved into a 1950's house which had non-grounding outlets. Another handyman replaced them with the 3-hole outlets, but I wondered if she knew what she was doing. I didn't, but am trying to learn about electrical stuff on the quick. I believe the commercial grade outlet is the best solution and answer to this situation. Thanks.
@@Rextrent I would be careful if the house wasn't originally wired with a ground wire and the old 2-prong outlets were just swapped out for 3-prong outlets. There are solutions to this issue but you should probably reach out to a licensed electrician in your area to better understand the options and ensure the outlets are wired safely and up to code.
That is so important! Thank you for that point.
My house was built in 1954; added to in the 70s, and again in the 80s. It's really three codes in one house. When I bought it, there were no grounded outlets in the 1954 part of the house. As I repaint, I replace the outlets with grounded outlets and ground through a pigtail from the outlet to box and the BX cable. Not code, but grounded none-the-less. Had I watched this video and read your comment before all that, I would have bought the commercial grade hardware and saved myself the hassle of constructing pigtails. But, I've still got a few outlets/switches to do...so: Thank-you.
The time or the electrician is the real expense when replacing an outlet if you aren't a housing developer. $1.50 per outlet is chump change.
Having owned and managed 46 apartments for 18 years I have seen what this video is talking about. I started using the commercial grade outlets too. The heavily used outlets frequently had cracks and black arcing marks. Some had brown over heating marks. Since outlets are daisy chained a lousy outlet over used can interrupt a whole chain of outlets.
A loose outlet can overheat, starting a fire which creeps up INSIDE the wall. If the renter is not at home, a huge fire can get going before anyone notices it. Most house fires are caused by worn-out outlets.
@@rollingtones1 and if the fire investigation can't find how ut started the electrical/electrician gets the blame.
@@jennifurzoe1302 Nope, not it you have a competent investigator. If you can't prove your hypothesis on where it started, the ignition source, first fuel ignited, and the failure mode or circumstances that brought the ignition source and fuel together, the fire is considered undetermined. I agree that in decades past electrical kinda became the default cause for lack of anything better but those days are long gone.
I have plugs that are 30 years old in our buildings that work perfect, once they get loose they end up breaking.
@@rollingtones1 I suppose if it were wired with the paper insulation surrounding the ground wire left loose inside the junction box it could have that chance of igniting and getting up and out. Is that paper flame retardant at all? What else in the wiring and walls is flammable?
As mentioned, ignition source and fuel are both necessary.
Actual comparison begins at 2:45 in the video.
Thanks! For this! He's long winded
Ken Paulsen me only reads comment at 2:40,
Thank you! Escaped a windbag.
Geeze! Thank you! Why do these UA-cam creators think we want to hear them go on and on.
We are talking about a $2 difference. 🙄
Pro tip everyone, watch videos on 2X speed.
For my self repair work in my own house and out buildings I ALWAYS use the better grades of outlets. Why? Because, my personal time and labor is the same for cheaper quality as for the higher quality. If I'm spending that time, I don't want to have to spend it again in a few years. I want to do it once and not have to touch it again. So, higher grade should allow me to do that.
Well done. I really appreciate you cutting into the outlets and letting us take a look inside. My house is about 60 years old and I just replaced one of the outlets in my daughter's room. It was amazing to see how much better the new outlet holds onto the plugs. Now after watching your video I understand why. It was not even a thought to me that loose-fitting plugs are a result of worn, cheap outlets. Now I think I need to go and change out all the other outlets in my house. Again, thank you!
I personally like the better grade ones that have the clamps that work with up to #12 (or 14). I hate having to wrap wires around the terminal screws as to do it right takes a bit of time (at least for someone without years of experience). Nice comparison video, I always wondered about the actual internal guts.
Hey Matt and that is actually another beneficial feature of the commercial-grade outlets that I missed mentioning.
Wish I would have seen this prior to swapping out all of the outlets.
Nelson Muntz has entered the chat.
Me too !!!
As long has as they have been installed properly you have nothing to worry about.
@@lawnmowerdude 100% CORRECT. This clown making this video really is a toad. He doesn't understand much about anything when it comes to electricity. This video is probably going to do more damage than good.
Customer- "Whats the difference between the fifty cent outlet and the the two dollar outlet?"
Hardware store clerk- "Ahhhh ...a dollar fifty..."
If you're lucky, they'll read the back of the box and try to think of an explanation.
If they had experience with home repair they wouldn't be working at a hardware store.
They just put the product on the shelves.
@@mariokarter13
I say that all the time! You can a gauge a person skill level by the wage the make, generally speaking. I just roll my eyes when my wife start asking the Home Depot employees advice. No disrespect just truth.
@@kcb5336 It's really just common sense... ( something that is becoming less and less common these days)... If the outlet is going behind the couch with just a small table lamp plugged into it, never being unplugged perhaps for years, the 50 cent outlet will be perfectly adequate.
If it's going into your work shed with tools being constantly plugged in and unplugged and a space heater used in it when it's cold...For sure get the heaviest duty outlet available.
The only thing I ever ask a hardware store clerk is where in the store I can find what I'm looking for. They usually know.
If it's management and you ask what's best, they will always tell you that you absolutely need the most expensive one they sell.
I do all my research, to know what I need, on line.
I just go to the store to buy.
Never, ever take advice from a salesman.
@@kcb5336 When Home Depot first opened in Canada, there was almost always at least one former or retired tradesperson in each department, and they were paid accordingly. There were a lot of people whose house was paid off, had some savings, and wanted to pick their grandkids up after school, but weren't ready to sit in a rocking chair all day. You could get really good advice for free. Of course, the shareholders were offended by having empowered employees and customers. Unfortunately, there are a lot of customers who shop there entirely because they want to feel superior to and bully retail workers, so it was a successful strategy for them. If I can't find something at a locally owned place, there is a different big box construction store I will shop at, because at least they have enough employees to help you find things, and give them work time to watch the manufacturer's marketing videos. Oddly enough, management also has a better idea what customers want and how to keep their shelves stocked here as well.
To show the weight difference, put them on a scale. Peope would then "SEE" the difference. Good video!
Good feedback Jerry. I am going to do a hospital-grade comparison coming up and will bust out the scale.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to the hospital-grade comparison, as I have a few as-yet-uninstalled GFCI receptacles in hospital grade. I do remember inserting a plug in one of them just for kicks, and it seemed the receptacle gripped the prongs like a vise!!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hi- there are standards (UL, maybe?) that separates commercial, specification, and hospital grade wiring devices. The keys are number of insertion/removal cycles, mated connector retention, and amount of force required for un-mating, but there are others as well (dielectric strength of insulators, isolated grounds, physical robustness of the device, etc). I'm guessing that with a "G" search you can suss out the differences and confirm/deny specific sample conformity.
If you or anyone puts out a video and says something abought weight, the only way for someone to "SEE" the difference in the video would be to wiegh them so that someone can see the difference. I figured the guy already had scales or could get some to help him "SHOW" people the difference. The common person would then see that the one is much more sturdy or built better. As somoene that works in construction, telling someone something and showing them or having them hold something is very different. Just yesterday I pounted out the difference in 2 adapters here in Afghanistan. He could tell the one was much heavier and sturdier than just by holdig them.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs contacts should be the exact same, hospital grade has plastic covers over the screws to prevent arcing to the box
Excellent video. I always use the heavy duty commercial grade receptacles, worth the extra price. I was surprised that you didn't mention the very convenient and useful Back-Wire Clamp connection feature of the commercial grade receptacle. Its much easier to simply insert the straight wire under the clamp and screw it down rather than have to bend a loop into wire so it wraps around the screw shaft. Also the Back-Wire system has provision for up to 4 circuit connections on the receptacle itself (except the ground terminal is usually limited to 1 wire) so up to 3 feed-thru wires can be in the box without the need to add bulky RED wire nuts or push connectors.
@@cmmartti Thanks for the tip. I've seen the lever style Wago connectors but never used them. I will get a few to try next time I'm out getting materials.
Been doing this for years...dollars are a consideration? Consider the better plugs in bath and kitchen, washer, dryer for gas and garage door opener...WHY? That's about 10 plugs in a house. They have the heavier amperage loads...hairdryers, toasters, microwaves, motors...a hidden plug above and behind the stove for the microwave definitely better grade...WHY? The heat factor above the stove or behind the stove or in the ceiling of a garage hot and cold will work against a poorer grade socket. REMEMBER they are all UL listed and meet that code.
Appreciate the feedback!
All I can tell you is I wired my house myself 25 years ago and I used the 50 cent outlets and switches. So far, I have never had to replace any outlets and only 1 switch. It's interesting that 25 years ago, the prices for both types were about the same as they are today.
That is interesting how the price has hovered for that long.
25 years ago things were better made.
@@timseifert7762 with inflation to it was probably around a couple dollars kore
@ehoffsr Having watched contract manufacturing in several countries I'll say this: the buyer gets the level of quality that is contracted and for which the buyer has their own inspectors and contract enforcement officers in the factories. China, Mexico, USA, doesn't matter. Your iPhone and very likely any computer you own came in full or in part from China. Yes, crap can come from there, but that's because someone specified "crap quality" as the result of the price and enforcement.
i've got a 110 flux welder. i've plugged that bad boy in on my work bent and have welded off those cheap outlets i put on it. ran more than a few power tools off it with no issues. obviously i would have opted for something better if i have known the difference inside but they're working fine even for welding on my little welder. i honestly figured they were pretty much the same. what will really make ya cringe is i cut up an extension cord to wire it up. i prolly violated every code in the book on that little project lol. it's safe enough, nothing exposed, nothing loose and dangling. it'll be fine..
"it'll be fine" sound like famous last words. Be safe out there.
Considering it takes me about 10 minutes of my time to install or replace an outlet, the difference between $0.50 and $2.00 is nothing. I'll pay the $2.00 to never have to deal with that outlet again.
Here's one huge difference that wasn't mentioned... The commercial version has screw terminals on the sides that have a square washer/plate under them. This is to accommodate stranded wires which are much more common in commercial electrical than residential. It is not permissible to connect a stranded wire under a plain screw like you can with solid wire unless you first install a crimp terminal which is a hassle and time consuming.
Great note!
That’s not true as far as I know. If you look up the specs on the commercial outlets you’ll see the back wire connections are rated for up to #10 stranded or solid.
If this type of connection wasn’t allowed then you wouldn’t be able to use Square D QO breakers with solid wire either.
And for the stranded wire under a screw that’s totally legal also. You’ll find nothing in the code book about it.
Using a crimp terminal is even against the UL listing. legacy-uploads.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/NovDec2008.pdf
What if you tin the ends?
@@gmsllc it’s not needed and not recommended. Just wrapping the bare stranded wire around the screw is totally fine.
I've always wondered what the differences were. I think I will by the $2 outlets from now on.
Yeah! I replaced the outlets in the bathroom where my wife plugs in her hair appliances with commercial grade. No more problems.
I believe any outlet installed today in a bathroom has to be GFCI per code as well. It may be only those within a certain distance of a water usage appliance or below a certain height, but I think for bathrooms now it's all of them. Just a note.
@@802Garage I think the rule is within 3 feet of water. But if you uses a GFI breaker a lot cheaper if the bathrooms are close to each other.
That GFCI outlet only needs to be in the first box in the circuit (read as only one per circuit allowed). I've seen GFCI outlet located in the garage, circuit then passes through the outdoor deck and into the powder room and finally up into the master bath. There were only cheap outlets on all the boxes after the garage. You can guess the garage was also a cheap 15A harbor frieght outlet. $1 Million production house.
@@KarlKoning Correct, bought a house where the plugs in bathroom were not working,,, tracked it back to a bad GFI...at beginning . I think bathrooms need to have dedicated GFI breaker, so no GFI plugs needed.
@@robertmccully2792 Not a bad idea as long as the breaker box is close by. A longer wire means a bigger/longer punch before the circuit breaks. AC doesn't take much to zap you. That is why they pop at
Wiring to the screw terminals on the economy outlet means hooking solid core wire like a candy cane and only putting one wire per screw. Wiring to the screw terminals on the commercial, the wire goes in straight (held between two plates) and you can put two wires per screw AND you can use stranded wire. To use stranded wire on the economy receptacle and comply with NEC would require a termination like a `U` or eye terminal.
what wall has stranded wire in it?
@@natalieisagirlnow
Stranded is used in commercial.
@@natalieisagirlnow You don't pull solid core in conduit, so most outlets fed with conduit (most because there's always someone shoving 12-2 through EMT in their garage).
Now I understand why my plugs are falling off my 20-year-old outlets. Great info. Thanks.
If in doubt for replacements, I suggest Leviton or Hubbell
LoveTheSun And falling out plugs is not the real danger. As the author of this video mentioned, but in my opinion, could have stressed a lot more is: Loose connections cause resistance, resistance causes heat. Heat causes the connection to loosen up more. If the outlet has a significant load, there is a good chance of a fire occurring inside your wall. Very dangerous and the reason any loose outlets should be replaced immediately.
@@DEW409 Good point.
I played in a band and sometimes, we played in a place that has very old outlet that does not hold the plug. That is not good for the band when all sound systems suddenly shut off in the middle of a song due to power loss.
Outlets are a wear item that should be replaced periodically.
I do rental and I always spend more because I don't like repairing anything again.
...measure twice, cut/saw once. " Do it right......Do it O N C E. ........= EXACTLY,, bro..
I have rentals for 40 years now. I do all the repairs and renovations. I only use the cheap outlets and never had a problem. The reason I use the cheap ones is because usually when the tenant leaves the apartment, I have to do some renovations. The outlets always look discolored and old if not painted over. I replace the outlets along with the renovation. The look of new is unbeatable.
@@yt66228 Your situation, I agree. And for rental and landlord, I agree, in 15 years, I have only experienced 3 failures on my 13 rentals. All my tenant is 5 to 10 years. I just buy the higher end because I am programmed that way. All dewalt and Milwaukee tools. FYI, this kitchen, I thought it was good, now in all 13 house, it leak every year and tentan like the looks. Glacier Bay Market Single-Handle Pull-Out Sprayer Kitchen Faucet in Stainless Steel
@@petersack5074 There's also that old saying in auto repair.
_"Never enough time and money to do it right, but always enough time and money to do it again."_
only time y0ou want to hear from renter is when they're bring rent over
I always put the commercial grade in my house. I like how well they last over time and I prefer working with them. This comparison completely skipped the difference in the terminals. I curse every time I have to disconnect wires that were pushed in to the back of cheaper outlets and switches, I find them to be a pain. I find the commercial outlets make it easier to clamp the wire in place and all you have to do is strip a short section of straight wire to go under the little plate that is retained by the screw. No bending the wire into a hook is required.
Between improved durability and better maintainability when working with the wires the commercial grade products have been a foregone conclusion for me for a while.
Agree Shaun, I touched on not using the push pins but you are right that I missed the built in plates on the commercial receptacles that are super handy for install.
Always gets me with the "national" electrical code that varies state to state lol.
NEC is the minimum standard .
Municipalities can add to the requirements
What causes outlets to fail is heat, loose connections, and what your plugging into them, next time your plugging something into and outlet take a look at the prongs of whats your plugging in. Are they clean and shiney? Most of the time they old, dull, dark and corroded. This is where the heat comes from that causes the outlet contacts to loose there spring tension and start generating more heat and fail.
Good stuff David, thanks for the feedback!
Residential outlets and electric switches are a joke. They shouldn't even be on the market. My house is 15 years old and many of the light switches have been replaced and a few outlets. My house was wired with leviton home grade. Never ever put that crap in your house when it's being built new. Get the spec grade. If it's not in the contract put it in the contract the electrical contractor must use spec grade components. On the overall cost of the home it's not going to add that much. If you are in an area where you need to run a small space heater definitely replace any outlet with spec grade and have someone with an IR camera look at every outlet on that same circuit or just go ahead and replace every outlet on that circuit and check the torque on the wiring. The house that you save from an electrical fire will be yours.
I would also recommend upgrading to 20 AMP circuits and outlets. So you never have to worry about pulling too much current from outlets running high load devices such as MiG welders, air compressors and plasma cutters. Not to mention various household devices.
@@blendy19 if your going to put a larger circuit breaker in your outlet you better make sure it matches the wire size in your house, not just your wire size in your breaker box. 20 amp breaker is ok for 12 gauge wire. If the wire has the yellow cover on it you have 12 gauge. If its white you have 14 guage wire or your wire is just old in which cause your better off staying with a 15 amp breaker....... there is not a big difference in how much electric you can safely pull through a 20 amp breaker as apose to a 15 amp breaker. It's about 300 watts. Not worth the cost of upgrading......... a space heater and vaccume cleaner pulls enough wattage on a single outlet that it's not recommended to have anything else plugged in while using it. They use a little less then a 15 amp outlet is rated for so a 20 amp is not needed. But again the wire size is what determines the size breaker you buy to use. Most breaker boxes come with 15 amp breakers. If you did not wire your house and it is old. It is common to have 12 guage wire going into your electrical breaker box. It is also common to have only 14 guage wire ran between your ceiling light and light switches. If you didn't wire the house then you maybe causing a fire hazard by switching out a 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker just because the wire running into your breaker box is 12 guage.
I've never seen a switch or outlet fail except when severely physically abused so I don't think the practical difference is that great. However if you are having someone else do the work definitely have them use spec grade as it's nothing compared to the labor cost. If you're DIYing it the cheapies would be more acceptable because you can swap them out quickly enough if necessary. Even if you use some cheap resi grade outlets around the house definitely consider spec grade in high-use areas like the kitchen where you have high loads and move around appliances like mixers and blenders.
The basic outlets are “contractor grade” and allow a house to be wired cheaply. They are UL compliant but not very durable. The others are “spec grade” and are definitely more durable. Opt for the better grade where feasible.
As in even the highest tech, opt for a little more money up front for the good stuff. Long term will pay a dividend.
This video is being done by someone who knows very little about what he talks …and he admits to it …yet compiles a video as if he knows something ….!?!?!?! ….be very careful people.
First, this $0.50 vs commercial comparison is garbage …right from square one. I will go with “standard duty and heavy duty” ….but this is purely a design difference. BOTH OUTLETS ARE UL AND CSA CERTIFIED ….MEANING THEY WILL BOTH FUNCTION JUST FINE REGARDLESS OF WHAT THIS GUY IS SAYING.
When this clown starts talking about “weight”, he does not provide any weight details …nothing more than just “probably about half the weight” …even though in fact the “lighter one has a metal center piece ….and then talks about the thickness of the “plates” ….which are called contacts ….and again, says they are “two to three times thicker” …and still does not take any measurements to prove he is correct.
And the plastic housing is either “thicker” or “denser” ????? WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU SAYING?????
Then the talk is about the design of the metal structure …and nothing but opinion. Nothing actually tested, but rather a reference to “recalling the face separating from the base” ….in your dreams buddy. I don’t think you are qualified to make any statements about twisting and failure.
Then more story-telling about deformation on the sockets allowing the plugs to fall out. I have NEVER heard of this before let along experienced any such thing on ANY wall receptacle. Then the explanation about an “external arm that applies the pressure …” …summary, “a better design”, “standing up to many more cycles” ….so now he is a designer? LAUGHABLE.
REMEMBER …..THIS IS JUST FOR “ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES” …..THIS GUY IS CERTAINLY NO ENGINEER. A “weekend warrior” is NOT someone to be paying any attention to.
He is looking for a topic to garner some attention. Nothing more …and maybe make some money …..”please subscribe to ME”.
Just an additional FYI ….the likelihood that any recepticles are made in the U.S. is more like ZERO. Manufacturing in the U.S. could NEVER make an affordable receptacle no matter how automated a production line is. There are Leviton factories of all kinds in 86 countries. So the guy who said he worked at Leviton for 25 years …sure he did, but it was over 25 years ago that he retired. That factory is long, long, long, GONE.
@@taxicamel Most of this is a bit off the subject but...You mentioned a mfg regarding products made in the USA. I do not know which products that mfg does or does not make in the USA, but it has been headquartered in the USA for around a 100 years which helps assure users that its products are safe and reliable. I purchased some low-priced Decora-style (non-Leviton) outlets from a big-box store that did even make reliable contacts. Quality issues with the wall switches, too. I could hardly believe it. That was a good learning lesson- don't buy no-name crap on things that could have serious consequences if they fail.
_"Is the extra cost worth it?"_
Is extra assurance from an electrical fire worth it?
After dealing with crooked local government, taxes and zoning. No. Burn the fucker down.
@@brianblack546you think the local government is crooked... Just wait until you try and collect on that loos from your insurance company.
Nope, do you not install circuit breakers?
@@integr8er66 Yes, there are circuit breakers. But why not have superior quality electrical outlets as well, especially as it's an added layer that can't hurt.
@@Watcher3223 Because of COST, better isn't always needed, why not always drink from a $50 yetti cup too? well because I just wanted a drink of water and there were paper cups available. Same reason I buy Harbor Freight and not Milwaukee. does the Milwaukee last longer, sure, does it last 10 or 12 times longer because it costs 10 or 12 times more? No. I have these receptacles all over, never had any problems with them.
Being a retired Journeyman Electrician, please know that the National Electrical Code is just that....NATIONAL.. It applies across all states. Period. Individual states cannot change the code to their liking. Now understand that the NEC establishes baseline standards that must be adhered to. Individual states or even municipalities can ADD TO those standards to make them more strict, but cannot arbitrarily chose to follow or NOT follow the NEC base guidelines. Loved this video though !! Well done, and a really great job on this !! Very helpful to MANY seeking answers.
Actually the NEC is merely a recommended standard developed by a private NGO. (NFPA). No states are required to follow it or any other code standard. Code standards are adopted at the state level in whatever way they deem appropriate. While technically true that no state can "change the NEC", many states adopt it "with state ammendments". These ammendments often do remove certain requirements from that states requirements. (i.e. NC removed AFCI requirements from residential kitchens and laundry areas for the 2017 code cycle).
Thanks Jon.
I've been using commercial grade as replacements for decades because they really do last longer. I've seen too many fires started due to arcing from broken contacts in cheap outlets.
For sure, thanks for the feedback 👍
Bottom line: Spend the extra money for good outlets and switches.
I like the cheaper shit, and the risk my home my catch on fire while I sleep. I like to live on the edge.
You should always rotate your outlets around your house every year so they wear evenly ;)
oh man, like tires, got it 😂
But what if the house has an alignment problem?
@@JasonW. well then you need to get your foundation aligned. I always recommend a complete 4 corner alignment :)
The commercial grade you have there can handle four wires on each side, which means you don't have to pigtail when you have more than two wires on each side, which saves a lot of time and effort. (In some places, pigtailing might be required by code, or at least people think it is. And, some people think you should always pigtail, regardless. Whatever.) Another advantage with the commercial one is that it accepts straight wires, so you don't have to bend in a hook, again saving time and effort.
Hey Dan, yeah I think the back wire option for the commercial is a big plus.
Technical note. The box through which the wiring makes it's "outlet" is the "outlet". The device that you plug into is a receptacle.
technical note: nobody cares about pedantics
@@natalieisagirlnow Get it wrong in front of an electrical inspector and you fail inspection. So they care.
@@ronobrien7187 if they are that petty be glad you don't have real problems to find
@@natalieisagirlnow It's about competency and communication. If you ask or answer questions with the wrong terminology, it can then be assumed that you don't know what you are doing. Of course further clarification can rectify the situation, but you fail in the interim. Do you realize that the Apollo 13 near disaster was due to a miscommunication about a 36volt heater in an O2 tank vs. a 24 volt heater? Minor miscommunication nearly resulted in the loss of 3 lives. My initial post was never meant as a petty point of contention, merely a possible point of interest to anyone with that kind of curiosity. Obviously you are not in that group that cares about or is affected by this subject. Take care & be well.
I'm not a professional electrician, but I enjoy working on this sort of stuff and learning along the way. I do care to know the appropriate terms and appreciate you pointing out the difference.
I've always wondered why American power outlets always looked surprised.
:O
As a commercial electrician I have seen those problems and I never use cheap residential plugs in residential work. I always use commercial grade plugs when I do residential work
I like your style 👍
Why would they even make an option of push in back’s for 14 gauge wire with an outlet? It should only be made for 12 gauge wire, 14 gauge is for lighting, not outlets.
Hey Chris, these are 15 Amp outlets so you could use 14-gauge but many people have pointed to favoring 20 Amp outlets as much as possible which would need 12-gauge.
Not true.
The price difference also reflects the ease of installation. All electricians do not use the stab-in feature. Btw in all residence you need to install tamper proof outlets changing your breaker out to afci if not already.
Are those requirements just for new construction or does every house need to be converted now?
"twisting" could cause separation of the white cover...
Actually, all you need is the mounting flange supported on top of drywall combined with pressure on the outlet near the location of the cover plate screw. That would cause the mounting flanges to pry the white cover away.
Another not so obvious issue is the plastic composition itself. Many of the materials today are being sourced from China and while they MAY meet minimal chemical specifications, they will have a high failure rate, especially over time. This may contribute to the facing/body separation issue but I have seen many internal failures where the plastic fails (to brittle) and allows the internal shorting / heating failures. I'm disappointed that the NFPA is allowing these products to be continued in our country.
I like a bargain as much as anyone but when replacing 1 or 2 outlets why not spend $10 and get the best
So true. My house was only 6 years old when I bought it. Nice house, but all the lights/switches/outlets etc were "builder grade". Nothing particularly dangerous or bad...just cheap. Over the years I have replaced all of them with the higher grade Levitons. Buying them 1 or 2 at a time, while you are already at HD/Lowes, the expense is nothing. But to me, the peace of mind is priceless.
Thank you that was some very good information .
Glad it was helpful!
Wait... so you're saying that something called the "National Electrical Code" is different from place to place within the nation?
The NEC is mandatory in most states and some states will just adopt a version of it and doesn't bother to enforce updated codes. However most Electricians will use the updated code to cover their ass.
@@lelandclayton5462 True. I'd add the many local codes will expand upon or fortify the NEC. Such as in this case our local code requires "Making stranded conductors solid" at points of connection.
I am a plumber by trade and the national code is the bare minimal that is acceptable. But lots of cities or states/provinces will take it a step further and say that is not always good enough we want a higher minimal in our area. Or for example the national code says minimal insulation needed is x amount and in Texas that is fine. But Montana being colder wil say no here we need to see a minimal of x plus y so there code says it has to be z
An important feature that you failed to mention is that the receptacle on the left is a self-grounding receptacle by virtue of the visible spring-style grounding strap at the one end of the yoke. As an electrical engineer, this feature alone will immediately increase the cost of the receptacle by virtue of the electrical engineering architecture that goes into the self-grounding receptacle in order to make it more robust so that it can accommodate the spring-style grounding strap.
Good info. I have a few rental houses and for switches and receptacles that I know will get a lot of use (kitchen, bathrooms, hallways) it makes sense to use commercial grade. For everywhere else that won’t get much use, standard is fine.
I've been doing electrical work/installations for 42 years. Nice job!!!!!
Thanks, appreciate the feedback.
in your garge you should spend the 2$ for one that you are going to use all the time.
As someone who used to be a licensed electrician, 99% of the time the cheap ones work totally fine and will last a very long time. There is no real need to buy the more expensive commercial grade ones unless code dictates it.
But why the grounding difference? It’s because residential grade is designed where it’s not ally going to be inside a plastic box while commercial work is generally all don’t with metal boxes so that bar ensures a better connection to the metal boxes. But.... if wired properly, that shouldn’t be an issue.
Also, I agree those push connections are terrible and should never be used. My house had all outlets wired like that and I could literally just pull most of the wires out of the old outlets.
While commercial outlets are technically more durable, odds are most people will never see the difference. For me, it’s not worth the cost to upgrade all my outlets to commercial but there were a few I did. Like my outlets to have window AC units that I redid with metal boxes and are 20A circuits and a couple outlets in the kitchen where things are constantly in and out.
Thanks for all the great feedback and sharing your years of experience.
Where I notice it most is outlets that see a lot of vacuum cleaner use. Loose as can be!
Randall Smith It’s definitely a possibility that outlets at the a lot of vacuum use will end up loose over time. The thing is though, I would say probably 15 years ago or so they were changes made to how newer outlets are made because of certain code requirements actually addressing that situation where they would become loose. If you were to look inside an outlet made maybe 20 years ago opposed to one made only 12 years ago, you’re going to see a big difference in how the inside is constructed I would be willing to bet that a lot of the ones you’re seeing lose that see a lot of vacuum use art of the older type that just don’t hold up as well
@@epoc162 good point. Our house was built in 2003, and a couple of the hallway outlets are loose. Maybe a bit abused by the previous owner’s vacuum cleaning practices! 😀. Still, they are not as loose as I remember my parents’ house had when I was growing up.
If the outlets are loose and you notice the plugs are getting warm after use, it's time to replace them- the box of 10 outlets are $10 and would be fine. They're the tamper proof shutter covered ones, which I'd just as soon not have, as I don't need the shutters myself, but that's all they seem to sell nowadays.
Use the cheap ones if your flipping the house or don't plan to stay in it long. Trust me no one buys a property because the outlets are high quality or high priced. More worried about how the couch looks in the living room.
A good home inspector "might" find a loose fitting outlet and "might" report it. A new one would be hard to find, but an old one "might" shown some signs of heat.
Cheap parts have their place. I just replaced the headlight lenses on my 1994 Ford Focus with the cheapest available. However, the combination of fire danger, electricity, installing them in your home, and a difference of $1.50 each suggests to me that the nice outlets would be a worthy upgrade for almost everybody.
Plot twist- Headlight lens melts and catches fire.
Depends on how often the outlet gets used if at all, and what kind of load it's taking. For a small bedside lamp which never gets unplugged and is mostly inaccessible behind a nightstand, then a $0.50 outlet should do the job just fine. Any benefits of a $2 outlet would never be noticed or needed. But for heavily used kitchen outlets, or outlets with heavier loads such as for appliances, then it may be worth the extra $1.50.
Definitely upgrading. Our old plugs suck.
"With the commercial" commercial thinks it was summoned.
As long as its not the commercial brand or quality of harbor freight
I bought my home in 1987. Spent the next couple of years swapping out the "el cheapo" outlets for "spec grade". Expensive ? Yes. Problems ? No. Also documented every electrical load (outlet, light, washer, dryer, refrigerator, freezer, etc.) went to which circuit breaker at the service entrance. This made it really easy when I had a standby generator installed (with automatic transfer switch) to tell the installer which circuits were to be powered up by the generator.
Nice breakdown, never bothered to take them apart. I own an apartment complex made in the late 80's and I've been replacing all the old outlets (which are often loose) with commercial grade ones. I find the expensive ones (I use an Arrow Hart flavor) install in less than half the time and given they hold up better will let me avoid wasting over an hours worth of time in the future replacing yet another outlet and annoying a tenant. I spend a little more, save hours worth of time and have happier tenants. Well worth it!
Hey Matt, first off congrats on the apartment complex. I am a fan of REI and like that you get your hands dirty taking care of the place. Yeah, I also have switched over to commercial grade for my properties.
arrow hart is cooper/eaton
I replaced/upgraded all my outlets a couple years ago with the 'residential' design. Had I known about the more robust 'commercial' grade design, I would have spent the extra money.
Great Video (From someone that has installed 100's of outlets but I don't consider myself an electrician) this re-afirms in a huge way, I've been spending my money wisely as I only install the commercial ones! Just like in your price comparison, the 35.00 for the whole project it cost (would have) you, it's worth it just to save one possible failure. Thanks
First off. When it comes to plugs and the connection is how you make up the wires. If you don’t wire nut the connections and leave a tail to hook to the plug your asking for trouble. Using the plug as the pass through is bad. Been doing electrical work for twenty years. Have put on thousands of plugs using the holes in the back of the standard plug. But I alway made up my plugs. Nothing wrong with using the commercial grade or 20 amp rated plugs but it’s kinda a waste of money. Most of the failed plugs I have come across fail do to heaters or to many devices plugged into a cheap device that lets you plug in 6 items.
Thanks for the feedback Mark.
Here again people don't under stand the concept of doing this. Some people appreciate quality. Some do not.
When given a choice of items of different grades, I never go for the worst (cheapest) option. It may be totally unnecessary in some people's opinion, but I just can't fathom installing a $0.50 receptacle in my home. Commercial all the way!
There is an old saying, "Be penny wise and pound foolish"
So is your life/house, worth saving the difference of $1.50?
I don't skimp on my electric parts, wires/outlets, so don't have to worry about them catching fire! You can pinch your pennies elsewhere!
No one's going to recommend the lesser quality electrical item but remember there's thousands of not millions of "residential" outlets out there without any problems
Most likely 10's of millions.
I agree if you add the word "yet". My house was built in 1956 and there are a couple of original outlets left, they have almost no plug retention so I don't use them. Since they're 2 wire outlets I'll be replacing them with GFCI outlets.
Hey dude...both of those outlets should be UL listed... all homes can use both and houses aren't burning down because of it like they use to !!
The primary difference between the two is...one is approved for strained and solid wire while the less expensive is approved for solid wire only!
For the less expensive...strained wire can be used if you use a required spade lug to connect!
You cannot wrap the strained wire around the screw...aka code violation per NEC !!
I never understood how an internal short could happen. Thank you for teaching me something I never expected to understand.
Happy to help!
You also need to think about your use case. Are you a business owner that will pay an electrician $200 to replace an outlet? Or are you a home owner that can do it yourself in a few minutes? If you don't want to do it yourself if it does fail, that extra $1.50 is like insurance against a $200 electrician bill.
Are you a home builder who wants to minimize warranty work?
As with most things in life, labor is the real cost. Trying to minimize labor cost is key unless you do the labor yourself.
Exactly the same here in Europe, you only get what you pay for. False economy.
I just stick two forks in the drywall and hook up the wires. Outlets are for suckers, I’ll keep my $2 in my pocket thankyouvarymuch
The internal metals in the more expensive one is solid brass and the cheaper is brass plated steel
I’m not so sure. Steel would be mechanically superior to brass. So it would last much longer.
@@erikkovacs3097 Someone correct me if I'm wrong but: Isn't mixing metals bad when dealing with electrical components because galvanic corrosion will cause one of the metals to rust at the point of contact?
@@JDWonders qvbeeheb
jkee@@erikkovacs3097
Rldk
After watching this video, there is no reason whatsoever not to buy the commercial grade outlet. I can't believe they sell the "residential" outlet that is more prone to failure and death. If you need 67 outlets for your appartement or house you save only $ 100 by selecting the "residental" outlet. And $ 100 is nothing in this context, compared to the cost of a appartement /house and benefits of safety and longevity.
I never put much thought into the $0.50 outlets (which are actually $0.37 each In the 10 pack from our Home Depot!). I’ll be stocking up on the commercial ones in the future for my customers.
Hey Dave, honestly I was surprised on the dramatic differences in design as well. My path forward is using commercial for my projects. 👍
Yes, I learned the hard way. Get a 10 pack of those and those are 10 outlets that you'lll have to replace 😄
For future customers you want to starve use the cheapest pray they break down another service call
@@wizard3z868 I don't know what that has to do with what I said.
At 50¢ a piece, you can afford to replace it 4 times for the same cost as a $2 one.
True but for most it is more of a labor cost not material cost consideration.
IF it doesn't burn your home ;-)
I had a contractor that used the cheapest outlets, so cheap that male plugs would be loose and almost fall out!!! Fire hazard....
Homeowner, but also with a lot of experience in electronics. It has been my practice for at least a couple of decades, to ALWAYS replace consumer-grade outlets and switches with commercial grade, for all of the reasons you gave. A beefier product will always last longer and is always safer than a cheap thing that WILL fail. Plus the commercial grade rarely has the tamper resistant feature, a benefit for us older retired folks with zero rug-rats. (Besides, WE managed to survive childhood without them.)
What really gets me irate though is when I am staying in an older hotel, motel or vacation property that was built with cheap receptacles. They get FAR more use & wear out very quickly because they often appear to be residential grade!!! Think about it. At home I may plug something in and leave it there for years. In a hotel people are plugging & unplugging EVERY DAY!
Hey Mr Payne, I totally agree and hotels are the classic example. Especially trying to plug in the little 2-prong plugs to charge your phone and then they literally just fall out of the outlet. All the best and Happy Holidays.
I bought a condo, and several of the outlets, when I plugged something in, would just fall out.
I replaced with these _better_ outlets, and 25 years later, still nice and tight.
I always go with the commercial for everything (or even better,, go with industrial or hospital). You want that quality even more so in peoples homes where you have children people sleeping, etc. The commercial/residential differentiation makes no sense whatsoever. You don't want to put the cheaper, less well built stuff into your home with something so dangerous. The US has the worst designed sockets anywhere. Look at the British and European style sockets and you will find them to be far more solidly built, overengineered, with more safety features such as half insulated prong which prevents electrically charged prong being exposed during insertion, etc. You don't want to take a bad design like the US outlet and then make it worse with a cheapo outlet.
Thanks for the feedback James. I was a bit disappointed by the Commercial "Plus+" Leviton Switches. Didn't see much in terms of differences on the inside. ua-cam.com/video/X8Y_LRqyYcg/v-deo.html
Much the same goes in Australia as in Europe (though with different plugs); you can get better/worse *brands* but residential and commercial environments use the same fittings.
Certainly the contacts in Clipsal (our leading brand) outlets (or power-points as we tend to call them) look comparable to the commercial Leviton.
I can't say I've had much trouble with wall outlets here; it's mainly in power-strips/boards where corners are cut.
Anyway, given a hypothetical choice between AFCIs+resi outlets, or commercial outlets without AFCIs, I'd take the latter option in a heartbeat.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs it's called marketing
Thank you, I usually go cheap, I understand now and may spend more next time.
Excellent!
Cheap labor isn't skilled.....skilled labor isn't c h e a p ......
If $2.00 for each outlet in your home is too dear. At least use commercial for outlets that you plug and unplug a lot, like the outlets in your kitchen or plug your vacuum into every week.
That was a good work up on the two differences. Usually as the saying goes- you get what you pay for. 👍
Very true!
In my basement shop, I always used 20A plugs and #12 wire. That way I never had to worry if I needed to put a real load on it for a short period. I did the same in the kitchen and bath circuits. In the bed room i didnt mind going cheap.
Outlets in hotel rooms... You can always tell where the maid plugs in the vacuum every day because anything you plug in falls back out.
💯 I have noticed that as well.
Fifty cents for a contractor grade receptacle or two dollars for a commercial grade receptacle?
There's an old saying. The quality remains long after the purchase price is forgotten.
Thank you so much for posting this. I want to note please run the other way from chinese knockoffs too. Do not go cheap when it comes to something so important. I have seen all of the above issues with cheap outlets. Loss of life is not worth it. In my opinion the cheap ones should not be legal. Nor should the push in connections.
Thanks for the feedback!
I'm amazed that people are so cheap, that they put in a lower quality outlet just to save $1.50 on each one.
As a state licensed C10 electrical contractor, of eight years and a journeyman electrician for about 30 years, both commercial/industrial and residential experience, I will say you did a very good job in describing and showing the differences in a cheap receptacle (outlet) and a higher quality device.
Those are still only basic receptacles, as you pointed out. There is National code in place and almost every state and city enforce the code for use of TR, tamper resistant, receptacles. That type make it difficult if not nearly impossible for a child / toddler to stick anything into the slots of the device protecting the person from electrical shock. This type of receptacle should be installed everywhere except where a GFCI or GFCI / AFCI receptacles are required.
Keep up the good work on your videos
They make it virtually impossible to plug anything in is what they do. Much like the gas can spouts actually cause spills as opposed to the old spouts. Stupid new ideas are not better just stupid.
@@scoutmaster33 --- you are not wrong saying that. The tamper resistant receptacles can be very difficult for anyone to plug something into, even the proper male cord end.
But, the main function of the National Electrical Code (NEC), clearly states at the beginning of the code book, the purpose of the NEC is the practical safeguarding of people and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity.
Underwriters Laboratory's (UL) approval for devices and materials, used in the manufacturing of electrical products, has their own requirements. Then the installation and use of those products, by a qualified person in a professional and workmanlike manner, all make electricity so safe that, people don't even think about the lights not coming on when the switch is turned on or the possibility of their computer or their coffee maker, not working or electrocution when pushing the power button or plugging in a hair dryer or a phone charger.
But there is a constant threat to people's lives and property by a living, moving, invisible, rarely making a sound, has no smell, it lives in the air, in water, in solid ground and most all metals and elements are transformed by it, in both positive and negative ways, and is not even fully understood, but we've temporarily harnessed it to work for us as long as we have respect for it and use it safely.
Most people have never seen someone who has been electrocuted, or been shocked, or had a tool or device short out and see the sparks and flames and flashes of lightning or arcs from even regular household voltage. Or watch a UA-cam video that shows the opening of the switch for a substation. I'll find a link and post it here. It is crazy. Here is one short video link and there are many more videos that show electrical failures, etc....
ua-cam.com/video/iW90XX7rjbc/v-deo.html
I watch them every year or so just to remind me that what I'm doing everyday is very very dangerous.
All people should know that men and women die almost everyday providing people with the convenience of having electricity in their home.
@@13_13k as an electrical engineer I’ve been around motor manufacturing my entire career. Have to take annual arc flash safety training so I’ve seen most of the final moments of life scenes in the videos. Been involved with accident/near miss investigation on several occasions and you are correct the code is to make it as safe as possible for people who have no clue how electricity works to use it. Mostly work in higher three phase voltages up through 22KV although we do some testing through 50KV.
The purpose of listings like UL, CE, etc it to provide a minimum level of safety in products so they are “safe” to use because as so often happens they end up shaving off quality to reduce cost until it often literally blows up in someone’s face.
Went to the link and the “lightning” was pretty spectacular however that is how they normally operate the heat from the arc causes it to rise making the arc longer until it extinguishes itself my dad was an Electrical Engineer for a utility and transmission stations. I actually got to touch a 345KV line as a student in a test lab for an IEEE tour. Purpose was to demonstrate the shock you get due to the distance charge principle the further you reach out to grab it the bigger the shock when you touch it. Now keep in mind this was isolated from ground so the shock was fairly low voltage. We all then went to the viewing area where they faulted it to ground literally vaporizing a 1/4x2 aluminum bar in the process. The “explosion” of vaporizing metal is not something you’ll ever forget after seeing it live....
@@scoutmaster33 --- you fully understand what I'm talking about.
The link to the disconnection of the substation switch was just basic visual for people who have never seen an arc flash, so they get an idea of just what kind of power goes through transmission lines to supply their home and workplace.
I spent 16 years as a journeyman wireman in the IBEW doing commercial and industrial electrical work mostly new construction of high rises, hospitals, sports stadiums, laboratories, in the Silicon Valley building Google, Yahoo, Intel, Applied Materials, 3Com, Cisco, NASA, GE mock Nuclear Power Plant, Stanford hospital, Stanford Stadium, S.F.Giants Stadium, just to name a few of the jobs. I usually was the one or one of the 2 or 3 men that started the job when it was just a hole in the ground and we set temp power for the steel workers and we would start the underground pipework and the electrical vaults and the main electric room for the building. I set the switchgear and transformers, and then set up the pulls for all the building feeder wires usually 500mcm wire or 650mcm or 750mcm once in a while. 5 wires, sometimes 10, and each wire is the diameter of a roll of U.S. Quarter Dollar coins and weighs about 2 pounds per foot of length.
I've actually had to climb inside a large 10,000 amp 1000 volt main switchgear while it was live to land the new set of 350 mcm feeder wires on an 800 amp 3 pole 3 phase circuit breaker. The heat and the vibration in a large electric equipment room can be very high and the ions in the air are charged making the hair on your arms stand up. Sweating profusely from the heat generated, scared for your life and the lives of your tool partner(s) there with you handing me tools and parts, and concentration as deep and focused as you've ever had to do because one wrong move, one dropped wrench, or something grounded touching me accidentally like the whole frame of the switchgear I'm working in, and me touching something live like the bussbar or an exposed metal button or zipper getting close enough for an arc to jump and I'd be dead before I knew I fucked up.
Dead is the best result in an electrical accident. You won't want to live after being cooked from the inside out by your blood and the water our bodies are made of boiling and then the molten steel, aluminum, copper, plastic, etc... shrapnel exploding into your body as the flash of fire as hot as the sun engulfs you for just an instant faster than the blink of an eye. Any clothing or jewelry or tools on your body melt and stick to your burnt body.
All that is going through your head until you start doing the actual work then you have to clear your head of everything except getting the job done and not making any mistakes, every move and every breath is taken slowly and methodically watching clearances between anything energized and yourself and your tools in your hands.
You know when you are doing a dangerous job when the protocall to work on a live circuit breaker panel is to have to wear fireproof Nomex jacket gloves, faceshield etc... but when it requires one other journeyman wireman to stand about five feet away from you while you work, and he has a 6ft long fiberglass Shepard's hook and his job is to just watch and use that hook to pull your body off the live wires or switchgear when you are hung up being electrocuted.
That makes you a very humble person who had better have kissed their wife and kids that morning before going to work every day. When you face death every day at work at any minute during your every day job, it makes you appreciate a lot of things that most people never think about. It also makes you realize you need to enjoy your life away from work as much as possible.
Tamper Resistant Commercial/Industrial/Hospital Grade outlets should be used everywhere. Residential outlets used nowhere.