Overall very helpful to a homeowner. Selecting a commercial-grade outlet seems the better initial decision, then an Eaton based on this video with a simple & secure wire insertion. So much wiring appears to have originally have been developed a century ago with cumbersome connections, diverse screw heads and no consistency. Your videos are wonderful for the novice and others.
I recently installed a leviton commercial outlet to replace the OEM residential whose contacts had worn out. The Eaton is MUCH easier to backwire. I had trouble getting my wire under the Leviton's plate. It wasn't too hard, but wasn't as easy as the Eaton.
Wow! I am persuaded that the Eaton is a much better outlet. the tougher build, the back wiring, and especially plug contacts inside, that alone is worth the difference in price. Thanks for this video.
Most Leviton devices are still made in the USA but the last Eaton I bought was made in Mexico. I don’t think country of origin necessarily affects quality, but I do prefer to support American workers.
I worked for a production/manufacturing company who has the Eaton contract. I made what we called "loose parts" which were then sent to Mexico, assembled, then sent back to the US. I assure you, these were made at a very minimum production, and usually took about 1-2 weeks out of the year to make. I worked for this company for 22 years, starting when they first obtained the contract and were still getting the machines into production.The rest of the time, our machines made and assembled the complete part including making the molds for the housings, Brass coils making the terminals, stampers/press machines doing the galvinized strap and final production which puts all the parts together and packages them up. So my point started out as saying, the parts are still made in the US, but a rare amount of them are assembled in Mexico. To this day though, I still do not understand why they did this, just figured somehow they were saving a few bucks for coffee doing it lol.
Yesterday I was installing some receptacles in my work shop / shed and ran out. I was using Eaton But bought Leviton. The difference was noticeable and I will only buy Eaton from now on. I wish I saw this before buying the leviton.
One thing that may not be known is that those ears with the holes actually have a purpose. Most diy'ers think that they are there to touch the drywall if the box is set back in the wall and not flush with the surface, but actually those ears are meant to be broken off and placed on the screws as spacers to keep the receptacle at the proper depth.
I had never heard that before. It made sense to me that they were meant to rest on the wallboard as you mentioned. Not sure I understand just how they can be used as spacers. I probably have an old outlet that I can experiment with. If they are meant to be used on deeply recessed boxes I don't think they are thick enough.
They make great small washers for the screws also ! Personally I carry a small length of aquarium airline hose to cut to length and slide over the screw before installing to offset the depth problem. Those ears are also made like that so they can be removed when installing devices in remodel boxes so the device fits in the indintation around the screw holes so wall plates fit properly and for easier alignment of multigang boxes.
No: the ears will in certain situations comply with NEC code: Not more than1/4 inch set back. 314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).***My opinion: If less than ¼ inch noncombustible material; use the plaster ears to flush face receptacles. if not, flush use UL listed fire box extensions. And you may need longer device screws. In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.*** This can be achieved by using UL listed Switch box extensions if combustible surface material and box are not flush. And you may need longer device screws.
As an Electrician, Eaton/Cooper has always been my residential preference. I have replaced many failed Leviton devices over the years, problems like cracked or broken plastic housings and worn out contacts that no longer hold the plugs properly leading to shorts and arcs.
For future reviews, you should really only get Tamper Resistant outlets if you are aiming at residential viewers as it is required by code effectively everywhere now. Also it is an issue that it is still hard to find commercial grade outlets with TR at big box stores. I use Leviton because of what you mentioned, availability. It is Home Despot's primary brand. Don't have lowes around to know what they have but our smaller hardware stores have some eaton and legrand.
I always do a shepherds hook, if I have more than 4 conductors, I just pigtail. You get a feel for how much to strip... some receptacles come with a stripping gauge for hooks too.
I added a bunch of outlets to our garage recently, and we had to go with eaton because I wanted grey outlets. We normally just buy whatever is cheaper, but installing the Eaton was SO MUCH EASIER than all the levitons I've installed through the years. I had a 10 pack of levitons sitting in my garage, and I donated them to goodwill. Eaton for life now!
Another great informative video, thanks. I use Leviton only because of availability however I prefer Eaton when I can find them because of durability. Never had an Eaton fail but have had Levitons go up in smoke and lose there clamping force on the plug. Should have included where each one in manufactured; Mexico, China, etc.
Admittedly lovington has been my go-to. Being a DIY, I was mainly going off the name associating it with quality. Actually it is of good quality in comparison to some cheaper crap that I have seen. But I have had outlets literally break apart when tightening side screws before. My brother was some type of high voltage electrician in the Navy. He actually brought home a couple of receptacles. There was even a big difference between those and the eating. He said that the ones he brought home or more what you would find in a hospital. I don't recall the brand now. So anyway, yep I would be the one to grab or order a box of 10 Ludington. I haven't in several years now. I don't recalled the last brand I bought but it was not levington.
Another feature you didn't mention that favors the Eaton, the ease of inserting the wire. With Eaton, you push the screw, which is easy. With Leviton, you have to let the back plate fall away with gravity to make room for the wire, which is super annoying. It always seems to fall into the way. I much prefer Eaton's method.
Yes, I agree. Sometimes gravity doesn't work when the receptacle isn't facing in the correct position. With the Eaton it doesn't matter which way it is facing. It's worth the extra expense not to have to fight with it.
@@davidamoritz Who in their right mind would run stranded wire to a receptacle. Stranded wire can't handle the heavy electrical loads solid wire can. I would run stranded wire for lighting only.
Hey I have a video suggestion that you might be interested in trying. I always wanted to see someone do a Demostration of an Electrical Fire starting. Is there a way that you can biuld a small fake wall and run wires through studs and so on and "mimmock" a real electrical fire scenario by showing the dangers or space heaters and lots of amerage load on typical outlet and show how it heats the wiring up and how a fire don't just start in the electrical junction boc but can heat an entire wire up. It would be cool! I have been wanting to do one. I might one day but I just do not have the "Views" and feel like no oe would care to se my videos.
Electrical engineer here, that has performed many electrical fire investigations. Far and away the most common fire scenario is a loose connection at the receptacle. Relatively rare is a situation that will “heat the entire wire up” and cause a fire. Another common “old wive’s tale” is an overdriven staple pinching the Romex causing a fire - it is possible but really difficult in reality.
Judging on external features I like the Eaton for - back plate pinching - insulation stripping slots - strip length guide With internal discovery - double screw fastened front plate - parallel electrode to lower contact resistance and runs cooler In the future I’d go for Eaton.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I could see a home owner using it possibly.... But pros aren't playing around with that thing lol; I couldn't imagine installing 30 outlets and trying to use that on a hundred+ wires.
I much prefer the Eaton's, even with the extra cost. I like the backwire feature too. I've had that in a lot of commercial buildings, just seems stronger/safer.
Easton’s seems more robust. When you run 15 amp repeatedly, the metal gets hot, plastic softens, expands, repeat , repeat... contact force decreases, the male cable strands heat. You can feel and see the cord finding it’s ‘natural’ shape. So I would spend the extra dimes to save working on weakened extension cords. (Or lessening cool down time on saws and drills)
In the past, I usually bought Levition, believing in the quality. Eaton is better overall because of your video. In time people will switch over to Eaton because of their quality. I would think that the reason most people buy Leviton is Eaton is not that well known.
Eaton has more robust construction. I've purposely over tightened both and can't seem to strip out the Eaton connector plates. It also has plenty of surface area to conduct what it says it will. All other outlets I've tested this way stripped out.
The metal tabs on the Eaton receptacles are beefier. I had no idea they were designed beefy to strip wiring. Thanks for letting me know but I'll probably stick to my Knipex strippers. I like Eaton receptacles because the tabs seem to provide additional outlet support for sloppy box installations. Leviton was my preferred brand before discovering the Eaton's gave me a sturdier outlet. I absolutely despise spongee feel receptacles.
Great point. Way too much flex on cheaper outlets, especially the consumer grade. Doesn't affect anything to my knowledge but certainly feels better when plugging and unplugging things to have it solid and not bend back.
I have never liked Leviton, because they sell so much cheap stuff. I did buy one recently only because it was to be dedicated to a CO detector, so I won’t be plugging things in all the time. I hate those child-proof shutters. For my new kitchen outlets, I have Eaton/Cooper commercial grade without the shutters. These are Eagles. Eagle used to be a separate brand. They don’t use the name any more, but the part numbers start with “EAG.” The other thing I like about the Eatons is being able to get my preferred color (light almond).
just from watching video i agree with you i like the eaton features better and the more robust the blades are in the eaton one. i will keep my eyes out for them but i normally buy at menards and have not seen them there
Great breakdown and analysis! Thank you for doing this! The other Eaton secret feature is the plate screw grabber - "Screw catch (TM)". You can push in the plate screw, it will catch on the plastic and hold. So no hands required to hold the plate or screw, while you transition to a screwdriver. Extra nice when mounting on a ceiling.
FWIW, the fasteners holding on the Eaton cover aren't screws. They're ring-shank nails, or ring-shank studs. You'll note that the ridges are not helical, nor are there slots, recesses, or flats that would give a driver purchase. The stud is merely pressed into the plastic and the rings keep it from backing out. Just in case you need to order some.
I’m glad to see Eaton’s spec grade receptacles are up to snuff. I recently bought a 10 pack of their non-spec, tamper-resistant 5-15R’s, and... everything about them is disappointing. They’re going to be replaced soon.
Leviton is pretty much my default switch and outlet provider when I'm doing something around my house. It comes down to features and options. around my area, either HD or Lowes, it mainly comes down that Leviton has a lot more of the readily available market for specialty switches and outlets. When I update an outlet, I usually am adding a Combo USB charger, or updating a GFCI outlet. It comes down that Leviton is the one I can walk in and buy easiest. Same for Dimmer or other control type switches.
Do a bent test on the metal tabs that anchor the receptacles, you will be surprised of the results. One of the brands has a much higher quality, much hardener metal. A simple finger bend will tell the tale.
You just sold me on the Eaton spec grade receptacles. But I have standardized on using Leviton GFCI receptacles. I like the green light in the corner that says it is on and working. Eaton has a nice pdf brochure online with the new changes in NEC 2020. On page 5, there is a real handy chart that compares what is required for GFCI and AFCI in each of the past NEC versions. Google "2020 NEC Code changes brochure eaton" and look at page 5.
Also its not so much about the feature because once can make a good looking feature but then use substandard metal inside of it. Idk either way but what i can tell you is that Leviton will last for decades & still not have any issues with them, even when they were not cleaned out properly.
I really like videos like this as a landlord I really think this is a great way to get my monies worth..and you explain it all so well.subscriber for life. ..most of the houses I rent are older homes so I've had an electrician come fix them I trusted his suggestions because hes older.but hes now gone and I'm finding out that the younger gen dont have his style or his class of perfection.so now I'm trying to do it all myself which is harder then one would think.
Regarding the internal builds of these, Leviton should last longer with something plugged in over a long period of time because of the "spring like" pressure on both sides of each flat prong, while the Eaton should last longer when used in an application that sees a lot of plugging and unplugging like in a hotel where the outlet is used for vacuums. I use Leviton because that's what I have available where I live, but the Eaton is much burlier of a build.
In my experience Leviton devices sit more flush with the plate, and Eaton sits a bit proud, with the wall being perfect. if there are any imperfections in the drywall, than it is easy for the Leviton devices to have the device sitting almost behind the plate leaving a gap. This makes the Eaton devices easier to install for me, so I prefer them from that standpoint. P&S (Legrand) devices seem to install similar to Eaton, however they have a more matte finish to them which I prefer over the shiny plastic (easily shows scratches) of Eaton and Leviton. Curious to see the other brands broken open, but I'd personally rate P&S > Eaton > Leviton. (haven't had any experience with hubbell)
Thanks for the review. I do tend to use Leviton due to familiar with it. I also use Leviton for residential data com for CAT5, coax, and audio faceplate connections. I don’t like the back wire approach and prefer the ‘J’ connection for better mechanical connection.
Good call, I have traditionally used Leviton until i recently bought a box of Eatons at Lowes. The Eaton is far superior as the plate design is so much easier to work with. The leviton plate tends to get in the way with gravity where the Eaton stays put. This makes a big difference if you are using stranded THHN so you dont get a flying lead (one of the small wires thast doesnt go into the slot).
I can understand that using the back wire method is faster and easier but does it really give you more surface area than a J hook connection? I would say just from a hypothesis standpoint that the J hook would have more surface area then the back wiring method. Which to me is superior. But nonetheless I love your videos and continue the good work
I've heard that backwiring often isn't even up to code nowadays, since it only contacts the wire at a narrow edge; many local governments want you to use the screw terminals. I always do; I don't ever trust backwiring connections. UPDATE: Actually, I was referring to the merely-push-in or "backstabbing" connections, not the much-more-solid back-wiring terminals with a screw and pressure-plate. Thanks, "Blake L", for bringing that distinction to my attention --- his message is in the replies below. :D
@@Quacks0 yes I have been told that the back wire was not approved by code. Back in the old days we used to jumper circuits in the back wire (which may never have been allowed but we did it due to laziness back then).
Code requires approved devices. Such as UL Listed or NEMA. As long as devices have that stamp of approval then its legal. Manufacturers approved devices supersede local code because it’s approved for the application. Local jurisdictions may request a certain wiring method, but it’s not code.
@@TheForgottenMan270 I'm pretty sure that's pretty obvious that you should only be using code compliant products for your house wiring. My question was about the surface area between the different connections And which has more more of contacting surface area in the connection rather than it being approved for such applications
@@Quacks0 Pressure plates have plenty of surface area and there is a ridge on the center of the eaton plates that bites into the wire providing better secure locking than a J-hook. Those aren't like the cheapo backwire one way push throughs.
Actually like the contact on the Eaton. The one thing that drives me crazy is plugs falling out of the receptacles after a few years use. The wire strip is fairly useless unless you are a DIYer with no strippers available.
My good man,, Leviton is predominate because of history. I'm 40 years in on construction... reliability, name recognition, durability, over the years. That does not mean they cannot be superceded! I will be looking into the Eaton brand.
I am a retired journeyman electrician and over the years I always preferred the Leviton units, but after viewing this video, I think now the Eaton may be a better unit because mechanically it appears a bit more robust than the Leviton. I never used the push in terminations in all receptacles because I thought they were lest sturdy than the push in type, so it took just a bit more time to use the J-Hook application, but I felt better because I thought it was more electrically sound. Now if I were still a practicing electrician, I would go for the Eaton receptacle.
One feature of the Eaton I don't see mentioned is how the faceplate screw works. On install, the faceplate screw gets pushed into the small plastic tabs (notice the three sided hole?) and is held in place while you straighten the screw and plate for alignment. It seems that the Eaton is designed completely for a single tool install and specifically for a faster install. I think in a race, a tech could install many more Eaton plugs than the Leviton in the same time frame, and if your job was to install plugs on a complete floor of a condo complex, once you got used to the Eaton, you could do it all will just a drill driver, then go back with faceplates and finish.
Leviton seems to dominate the market, so many people do not see or know about the other brands out there. The same is true with breakers. In the US it seems like Square D and Cutler Hammer have like 90% of the market, with the remaining 10% GE, Seimins, and a handful of others. I have noticed that a lot of industry/commercial use Square D, whereas residential is mostly Cutler Hammer. The two also operate differently, Square D trips and the toggle goes to the center position and a orange flag shows up in a window, to reset you push to the full off position and then back to on. Cutler Hammer breakers look like a large light switch toggle, there is no trip position, it trips and snaps to the off position, thus there is no indication of a short/overload or if someone flipped it off. Also any double pole breakers (such as the main disconnect, or any 240 volt circuits) on the CH are two breakers with a locking bar between them, whereas SD locks them together internality with a single toggle operating it.
Prong receptacles - didn’t anyone noticed that the Eaton has dual copper horizontal spikes instead of one horizontal on the Leviton. That seems better to me.
I've always preferred the commercial grade receptacle to the cheapest. Until this video I thought the Leviton was the best, but after seeing this comparison I will definitely be using the Eaton from now on. Thank you for doing this video.
The Eaton outlet and switch designs were originally from a company called Eagle. They were made as far back as the 70s I believe. In 2002, they were bought by Cooper, and new design revisions included the distinctive ears with the built in wire strippers. Recently, as you said, Eaton bought Cooper. I think that particular Leviton design has been around for a while, but maybe not as long.
History and availability. Always used Leviton and never a problem. Leviton is the brand at Home Despot - greatly influencing availability. Lowe's too far away for me. Menards - Midwest big box home center - sells LeGrand/Pass and Seymour - a brand I remember from the 50's. Interested in seeing that one from the inside.
Thanks for the feedback actually I am also interested in taking a looking at both the Legrand (PS) and Hubbell as a good number of people in the comments recommend those 2 brands.
As an electrician... These particular backwire features of both brands I would use for stranded wire only. At one time before these better backwires existed on the commercial receps, stranded wire was required by some municipalities code enforcement to have spades, such as: Sta-Kon, 3M, Panduit, etc., to be crimped onto the stranded wire before putting under a screw. With these commercial backwires, they do seem to hold stranded wires quite well. I would like to see pull ratings done using solid wire conductors on these backwires. The fault I find with these, is the screws were never tightened enough and when you fold the wires back into the boxes it moves the wire under the pressure plates causing looseness and becomes a hot spot. If using solid, I still wrap around the screw. When using receptacles in a circuit run... I make all my wires up and put under a wire nut. I leave a single set of pigtails out of the box to wrap around the outlet screw. If the outlet fails.. it doesn't affect the rest of the circuit.
I got thinking about the Eaton strip feature and can actually envision a late-night event where I have a screw driver handy and open the box and woah, the stripped wire is broken so I could just use the stripping feature, otherwise it seems like a slower process. But if your plier has fallen off your belt and you just want to get the job done - slow is better than a trip back for another tool.
Come on, the built in stripper on the Eaton separates it from the competition. I’ve been in situations where I dropped or forgot my strippers, usually at a location that’s difficult to work in. Could mean one less trip.
I do appreciate this video. I've been an electrician for 24 years and have used both brands. I have found the Leviton brand to be made of better materials. The side terminal screws on the Eaton strip and leave loose connections. I have seen both brands overheat due to loose connections. The difference that I've seen in the two is the Eaton one melts, and the Leviton one warps and gets discolored.
I doubt seriously if I'd ever use the strip wire function on those type outlets since I always use my wire stripping pliers which is for me way faster but I agree that the grey outlets here are somewhat better in their design being light colored are easier and faster when making your connections! I wish they were at home depot or lowes!
I have to add now that eaten will be my new go to now that I know that lowes handles them! I also wish their were more lowes stores like there are home depots!
I'm a landlord, and I use the Eaton when I have to replace a worn out outlet, precisely because of the backwire feature. I used to use the cheap residential outlets, until one time when I accidentally bought a box of commercial outlets. It turned out the backwire feature made it so much easier to use that it was well worth the extra money, not to mention that they'll last much longer. So, now I get nothing but Eaton commercial.
so fyi. backwire is normally done in residential due to the speed (which usually equals shortcuts) in the commercial world, more times than not, its spec'd out to be sidewire (J hook) and prohibits backwiring cuz of the failure rate.
I knew about the failed secret wire stripper. I tried it once and had the same poor result he did. Maybe good in an emergency but for general use completely useless.
Eaton is Cooper/Arrow Hart. Is the better quality hands down. I've been an electrician for 40 yrs. and can say with confidence that Cooper/Arrow Hart always been the heavy duty between them and Leviton. 50 cent devices are junk...period! I use 15A and 20A spec grade Eaton recepts when applicable for resident/dwellings.
You do know everybody uses decora design today..The best was the new receptacles that where kid proof. Had to have both holes pushed at the same time. I got curly hair cause i used tweezers.There was no way no how to put a plug into them.Plus gfci and the other stupid fuse.Next will be using aluminum wiring! Positive side you don't have to pay for heat when your house burns down.LOL
Pro..1..wite stripper.. ground up or down...safety issue...ground up. Reason..ground prong longest on cord cap..it makes contact with ground contact before power prong makes contact..safty reason.. if something slides down the wall behind the cord cap it will come in contact with the ground before contaCting a power prong. Always ground up..
I'm an electrician with 30+ years of experience. Why are you using non-TR receptacles???? They are illegal. These are NOT the same grade receptacles. That is an upgraded Eaton ...I know this because I've done what you've done ...taken them apart and you are looking at an upgraded Eaton. You may be comparing a commercial grade Eaton to a Homeowner Leviton. The standard Eaton does *not* have a 20 amp socket connection. The commercial grede Leviton does have a 20 amp connection for the plug. Go to any professional electrician's forum and you will see how much we despise back-stab connections. Don't use them ...it's a sure sign of an amatuer Eaton receptacles fail more than Leviton. Eaton's AFCI circuit breakers fail more than any other brand. This is coming from a guy who installed 2 Eaton panels in his own home 16 years ago -I've had no problem with them, but I would not buy an Eaton product today. Over-priced and lower quality than the other brands I use.
The problem is where most DIYers get their supplies...and it's from big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes...and Leviton is the brand that is prevalent there.
Your videos on receptacles are amazingly comprehensive! Very well done. Leviton, Eaton, and P&S are my preferred brands. But I buy above the residential spec devices, I'd rather spend a little more for the quality.
I'm a residential electrician apprentice. I've installed hundreds of Leviton and Eaton outlets. I'd take Eaton any day. I find it very difficult to get my loops around the screws on Leviton. And thats with 14 and 12 gauge.
Leviton name is more familiar to me. After video I’m going with Eaton and that’s good cause I mostly shop Lowe’s. Thanks for info. Can’t wait to see second video.
The Leviton Commercial Grade receptacle that is illustrated in this video appears to be Leviton's so called "Plus" Model which you can find at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as CBR15 and it sells for $ 2.18 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as CBR20 and it sells for $ 3.28 - Leviton's next Grade up from their Commercial Grade is known as their Industrial Grade "Plus Pro" which are the models which I very much prefer - Their Industrial line is also available at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as 5252 and it sells for $ 6.28 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as 5352 and it sells for $ 7.28 - Relatively speaking, their Industrial line costs about 3 times as much as their Commercial line but they are worth it - The Back Wire terminals of their Industrial line looks very much like the Eaton receptacle that is shown in this video in that the Back Wire connection terminals have two molded slots per terminal which will allow you to firmly attach two wires to each said terminal if the need should arise - The Ground terminal of their Industrial line ("Plus Pro") also offers a Back Wire (clamp/screw) connection which their Commercial line does not - Their Commercial line ("Plus") only has a screw (no clamp apparatus) - The Ground terminal of the Eaton receptacle shown in this video also appears to be the same as the Leviton (screw only - no clamp apparatus) - When installing High Grade receptacles which come with Back Wire connection terminals, my preference is to use the Back Wire Connection terminals - In my opinion, a Back Wire connection is (1) easier / quicker to connect than a Side Wire connection, (2) is just as firm as a Side Wire connection, (3) seems to make it easier to push the receptacle back into the box than what a Side Wire connection does and (4) in certain installs, such as Split Feeds, you might need to attach two wires to a single terminal which a Side Wire connection does not allow you to do (prohibited by Code) - In summary, buy Leviton's Industrial Grade receptacles and use the Back Wire connection terminals to make all your connections
A Duplex receptacle has two plugs (an upper and a lower) which are normally joined / connected together by a Common Fin on both sides (Hot terminal sides and the Neutral terminal sides) of the receptacle when you first buy them - The Common Fins can be broken off which will allow you to feed each plug separately - There are several different wiring configurations that you can use when you wire up a Duplex receptacle in Split Feed mode - Basically, the wiring configuration that you will use will depend on what you are trying to accomplish - I will give you the two most common applications of a Split Feed - Probably the most common application is in a high demand area such as a Kitchen or Workshop, where you might want each plug of the receptacle to be from a different circuit - In this case, you will need two hot wires coming into the box from two different circuits - Normally, this is done with one cable which would contain two hot wires (normally, a color coded Black wire and a color coded Red wire), a Neutral wire and a Ground wire - Normally, only the Hot Common Fin is broken off leaving the Neutral Common Fin intact - You would connect one hot wire to the hot terminal of one plug and the other hot wire to the hot terminal of the other plug - The Neutral wire can be connected to the Neutral terminal of either plug - The other most common application is were you wire up one plug to be constantly on and the other plug to be controlled from an upstream switch - The upstream switch is most commonly your every day wall switch that you would normally use to turn on a lamp that is plugged into the receptacle that is controlled by the switch - In this case, you can either use two hot wires fed from two different circuits or two hot wires from the same circuit - In this setup, the Hot Common fin would be broken off - The Neutral Common Fin is normally left intact but could be broken off if you are supplying the box with two separate cables which would have two separate neutrals - The answer to your specific question "why would you want to connect two wires to the Black terminal" is as follows - In a split feed configuration, the Hot terminal of each plug is supplied with a separate Hot wire which may or may not be from the same circuit and which may or not be controlled by an upstream switch - No matter what Split Feed configuration you decide to use, you will always have at least one Hot wire attached to the Hot terminal of each plug - With that being said, your question now becomes >> Why do you need to attach another Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals of one of the plugs - The answer is >> You don’t always need a third Hot wire - Again, as I mentioned, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish - The most common reason for attaching an extra Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals is >> Most electricians, in an effort to save time and money, will wire up their circuits in a Daisy Chain configuration which means that each receptacle box in the chain / circuit will be wired up with one incoming cable supplying power into the box and one outgoing cable to supply power to all other downstream receptacles in the chain / Circuit - The Hot wire of the outgoing cable would need to be connected to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs in order to feed the other receptacles downstream - In the alternative, rather than connecting the Hot wire of the outgoing cable to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs and the Neutral wire to one of the Neutral terminals and Ground wire to the Ground terminal, some electricians will use a so called Pigtail configuration which I do not prefer - In a Pigtail configuration, NONE of the outgoing cable wires are connected to the receptacle - See my other post at ua-cam.com/video/_rRa_CedJ38/v-deo.html which explains my position regarding the use of Pigtails on High Grade recepatacles - Reply back if you still have questions
@@rjtumble As an example of one of the things you can do. I needed to wire a lamp (that had a failed switch). Built a small box, installed an outlet and split it. One was always hot, for a phone charger, the other was wired to a switch to turn the lamp off and on.
If you have to replace one outlet, in a homeowner's 3rd floor attic, and you forgot your strippers plus you're already in the attic, dang right I'll use that "hidden feature."
I guess your right but if your replacing a outlet, you would know you need a screwdriver from the tool box, and that would hopefully jog your memory to bring any additional tools you need, strippers, tape, flashlight, etc.
Meh. I have my old mil-spec electrician's knife on me at all times. Far less hassle to strip the wire with that and then slip the second blade out to drive the screws.
The strength of the backwire connection is what sold me on the Eaton (then Cooper) way long ago. It was the first time I felt I wasn't skimping when I did a backwire instead of a sidewire. I was surprised by the results of the survey. In the beginning I thought all receptacles were the same, or that nuances didn't matter much. But after replacing receptacles with loose backwires (yes backwires, not push-ins - although replaced bad ones of those more), I noticed they all weren't the same. The ones that worked well were the Eatons (then Coopers). Bonus, I find the Eaton backwire easier to use than Leviton's. The hard stop when the wire goes in to the same place every time, the reliable grab of backwire plate, it's a solid action. The Leviton can involve a little fiddling to be in the right spot, and you can push the wire too far onto the insulation. However, Eaton's sidewire can take practice to get good on. If you don't get the length+angle of the wire and loop right or you are pressuring the screw the wrong way, you can spend a minute or more fighting to get it in. It is doable quickly, though, just have to learn it.
@@illestofdemall13 In regards to a loop, I was talking about when sidewiring. This is where the wire goes around the screw, and pressured between the screw head and the plate.
Eaton/Cooper is the better product. If money is no object, go with Hubbel/ Bryant industrial. That being said, most housewives don't want to use both hands to unplug or plug in their vacuums , mixers, etc.
You should have thrown a walmart outlet in the mix so people would stop buying that crap and installing them next to where they sleep. Just the weight difference should be a clue its junk.
The Eaton has another hidden feature. The hole in the center, for the cover-plate screw, is triangular; you can put the plate on and just press the screw into position, and the sides of that tiny triangle grip the screw & hold it while you get the screwdriver.
You are right I completely missed that feature and that is super handy. Maybe I should do a quick story (15 second video) and call out the feature. Thanks for the feedback 👍
ALSO, I LIKE THE PLUG BLADE FUNNEL GUIDE ON THE EATON. IF YOU ARE PLUGGING IN, IN THE DARK, THE PLUG WILL FUNNEL INTO THE RECEPTACLE ON THE EATON EASIER. IT IS CLEARLY WORTH THE LOUSY EXTRA QUARTER COST ON BULK, FOR THE EATON FEATURES, IMO.
Leviton is a design from the 1970s... it's the old standard in which everyone else is trying to duplicate by adding small features. It's like comparing an automobile from 1975 to an auto from 2000.
Great video, I love seeing things broken down and compared on this level, very informative. Would love to see this done with their GFCI outlets as well!!
Good Comparison between Leviton and Eaton outlets. I also prefer Eaton outlet. Eaton just seems to be better than Leviton and both are very economical.
Yeah, to be honest the price is pretty reasonable for what you are getting. I have no problem spending the $2.00 per unit compared to the cheap $0.50 receptacles.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the price per unit are surprisingly cheap. It costs less than a cup of coffee at Peet. 👻 I would rather pay more to get good quality Outlets that would last and safe. Beside Leviton and Eaton, Is there any better quality outlet with larger capacity and/or more safety feature for home and commercial use in the market? Thank you for making such a good video😹👻😂👍
I'm not surprised. Leviton is the cheap consumer level stuff you find in every low-end department store (as well as builder stores like Home Depot). But just pick those two outlets up in your hand that he showed in the video and it is painfully obvious that Eaton are better-made products.
The Leviton is marked as "spec grade" which in this case (model BR15) is really commercial spec grade, whatever that means, but it's not Fed spec wc596 rated for some reason. The Eaton (also model BR15) is Fed spec wc596 rated.
Handy tip: if your dealing with stranded wire on a bolt down, like a terminal block, twist the strands counter clockwise. Wrap your Jay clock wise, n tighten snuggled 🙂 hope this helps
Overall very helpful to a homeowner. Selecting a commercial-grade outlet seems the better initial decision, then an Eaton based on this video with a simple & secure wire insertion. So much wiring appears to have originally have been developed a century ago with cumbersome connections, diverse screw heads and no consistency. Your videos are wonderful for the novice and others.
I recently installed a leviton commercial outlet to replace the OEM residential whose contacts had worn out. The Eaton is MUCH easier to backwire. I had trouble getting my wire under the Leviton's plate. It wasn't too hard, but wasn't as easy as the Eaton.
Wow! I am persuaded that the Eaton is a much better outlet. the tougher build, the back wiring, and especially plug contacts inside, that alone is worth the difference in price. Thanks for this video.
I typically buy Leviton because of availability. I like what I saw on the Eaton and will look for them next time. DIYer
Most Leviton devices are still made in the USA but the last Eaton I bought was made in Mexico. I don’t think country of origin necessarily affects quality, but I do prefer to support American workers.
Yeah, depending on which model of Eaton receptacle the country or origin can vary. I know this Eaton was made in the USA 🇺🇸 👍
I worked for a production/manufacturing company who has the Eaton contract. I made what we called "loose parts" which were then sent to Mexico, assembled, then sent back to the US. I assure you, these were made at a very minimum production, and usually took about 1-2 weeks out of the year to make. I worked for this company for 22 years, starting when they first obtained the contract and were still getting the machines into production.The rest of the time, our machines made and assembled the complete part including making the molds for the housings, Brass coils making the terminals, stampers/press machines doing the galvinized strap and final production which puts all the parts together and packages them up. So my point started out as saying, the parts are still made in the US, but a rare amount of them are assembled in Mexico. To this day though, I still do not understand why they did this, just figured somehow they were saving a few bucks for coffee doing it lol.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative.
You're welcome.
Yesterday I was installing some receptacles in my work shop / shed and ran out. I was using Eaton But bought Leviton. The difference was noticeable and I will only buy Eaton from now on. I wish I saw this before buying the leviton.
That brass grounding wafer is to ground a metal cover plate typically used in commercial/hospitals use.
And being used more in residential applications now because it's difficult to find plastic boxes.
@@njsongwriter yeah those bright blue metal boxes are all i see anymore
One thing that may not be known is that those ears with the holes actually have a purpose. Most diy'ers think that they are there to touch the drywall if the box is set back in the wall and not flush with the surface, but actually those ears are meant to be broken off and placed on the screws as spacers to keep the receptacle at the proper depth.
Hey Norman, that is the first time I have heard the spacer use case for the ears. Thanks for the feedback.
I had never heard that before. It made sense to me that they were meant to rest on the wallboard as you mentioned. Not sure I understand just how they can be used as spacers. I probably have an old outlet that I can experiment with. If they are meant to be used on deeply recessed boxes I don't think they are thick enough.
@@michaelcagley2617 For deep spacers I keep chromed plumbing supply tubing cut ends to use to make custom length spacers.
They make great small washers for the screws also ! Personally I carry a small length of aquarium airline hose to cut to length and slide over the screw before installing to offset the depth problem. Those ears are also made like that so they can be removed when installing devices in remodel boxes so the device fits in the indintation around the screw holes so wall plates fit properly and for easier alignment of multigang boxes.
No: the ears will in certain situations comply with NEC code: Not more than1/4 inch set back. 314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).***My opinion: If less than ¼ inch noncombustible material; use the plaster ears to flush face receptacles. if not, flush use UL listed fire box extensions. And you may need longer device screws.
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.*** This can be achieved by using UL listed Switch box extensions if combustible surface material and box are not flush. And you may need longer device screws.
As an Electrician, Eaton/Cooper has always been my residential preference. I have replaced many failed Leviton devices over the years, problems like cracked or broken plastic housings and worn out contacts that no longer hold the plugs properly leading to shorts and arcs.
For future reviews, you should really only get Tamper Resistant outlets if you are aiming at residential viewers as it is required by code effectively everywhere now. Also it is an issue that it is still hard to find commercial grade outlets with TR at big box stores. I use Leviton because of what you mentioned, availability. It is Home Despot's primary brand. Don't have lowes around to know what they have but our smaller hardware stores have some eaton and legrand.
Thanks for the Very Complete analysis.
Glad it was helpful!
I always do a shepherds hook, if I have more than 4 conductors, I just pigtail. You get a feel for how much to strip... some receptacles come with a stripping gauge for hooks too.
Can you do a comparison of GFCI outlets?
Interested in seeing the internals.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔.......,,
I wish I had seen this before I did my remodel. I would have spent the extra money and got the Eaton.
I added a bunch of outlets to our garage recently, and we had to go with eaton because I wanted grey outlets. We normally just buy whatever is cheaper, but installing the Eaton was SO MUCH EASIER than all the levitons I've installed through the years. I had a 10 pack of levitons sitting in my garage, and I donated them to goodwill. Eaton for life now!
Why they are the same installation process? You backwire them.
@@killer-gaming Did you not watch this video? Scott literally explained why Eaton's back wiring is better.
Another great informative video, thanks. I use Leviton only because of availability however I prefer Eaton when I can find them because of durability. Never had an Eaton fail but have had Levitons go up in smoke and lose there clamping force on the plug. Should have included where each one in manufactured; Mexico, China, etc.
Admittedly lovington has been my go-to.
Being a DIY, I was mainly going off the name associating it with quality. Actually it is of good quality in comparison to some cheaper crap that I have seen.
But I have had outlets literally break apart when tightening side screws before.
My brother was some type of high voltage electrician in the Navy. He actually brought home a couple of receptacles. There was even a big difference between those and the eating. He said that the ones he brought home or more what you would find in a hospital.
I don't recall the brand now.
So anyway, yep I would be the one to grab or order a box of 10 Ludington.
I haven't in several years now. I don't recalled the last brand I bought but it was not levington.
Hubbel ?
Another feature you didn't mention that favors the Eaton, the ease of inserting the wire. With Eaton, you push the screw, which is easy. With Leviton, you have to let the back plate fall away with gravity to make room for the wire, which is super annoying. It always seems to fall into the way. I much prefer Eaton's method.
Plus stranded wire is easier to install.
@@davidamoritz But is somewhat more dangerous because some bare ware may not enter the hole if one's lack attention.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔....,
Yes, I agree. Sometimes gravity doesn't work when the receptacle isn't facing in the correct position. With the Eaton it doesn't matter which way it is facing. It's worth the extra expense not to have to fight with it.
@@davidamoritz Who in their right mind would run stranded wire to a receptacle. Stranded wire can't handle the heavy electrical loads solid wire can. I would run stranded wire for lighting only.
Hey I have a video suggestion that you might be interested in trying. I always wanted to see someone do a Demostration of an Electrical Fire starting. Is there a way that you can biuld a small fake wall and run wires through studs and so on and "mimmock" a real electrical fire scenario by showing the dangers or space heaters and lots of amerage load on typical outlet and show how it heats the wiring up and how a fire don't just start in the electrical junction boc but can heat an entire wire up. It would be cool! I have been wanting to do one. I might one day but I just do not have the "Views" and feel like no oe would care to se my videos.
Thanks for the feedback. I think that would be a great demo if done in a controlled environment. 👍
Electrical engineer here, that has performed many electrical fire investigations. Far and away the most common fire scenario is a loose connection at the receptacle. Relatively rare is a situation that will “heat the entire wire up” and cause a fire. Another common “old wive’s tale” is an overdriven staple pinching the Romex causing a fire - it is possible but really difficult in reality.
@@jeffbannard2304 Ohh interesting! Thanks for the feed back!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes for sure! I would love to see that. Thanks for the reply.
@@jeffbannard2304 thanks for the info!
Judging on external features I like the Eaton for
- back plate pinching
- insulation stripping slots
- strip length guide
With internal discovery
- double screw fastened front plate
- parallel electrode to lower contact resistance and runs cooler
In the future I’d go for Eaton.
No I would never use the stripper on the receptacle its too slow
🤦♂️ for sure. Could not image actually using the built in stripper as part of the install.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I could see a home owner using it possibly.... But pros aren't playing around with that thing lol; I couldn't imagine installing 30 outlets and trying to use that on a hundred+ wires.
I much prefer the Eaton's, even with the extra cost. I like the backwire feature too. I've had that in a lot of commercial buildings, just seems stronger/safer.
Agreed 👍 Thanks for the feedback.
Eatons the better plug and when running commercial stranded wire the Eton is easy to install.
Easton’s seems more robust. When you run 15 amp repeatedly, the metal gets hot, plastic softens, expands, repeat , repeat... contact force decreases, the male cable strands heat. You can feel and see the cord finding it’s ‘natural’ shape. So I would spend the extra dimes to save working on weakened extension cords. (Or lessening cool down time on saws and drills)
@@davidamoritz same with light switches?
@@randomrazr yes the upper brands not the cheap ones
I prefer romex sticking out of the wall. People then can just plug stuff in any way they want. ⚡⚡⚡
😂😂😂
Would be versatile and inexpensive 😬
Just have to remember, black goes in the tiny hole and white goes in the bigger one! The exposed copper wire is just leftovers, you'll be all good.
@@Camelotsmoon I'm trying to decide if this was meant as a dirty joke and if so, which are the tiny and bigger holes?
@@Camelotsmoon Don't get your shorts in a bunch. it's what you need to know when testing outlets with a multimeter - for correct wiring.
In the past, I usually bought Levition, believing in the quality. Eaton is better overall because of your video. In time people will switch over to Eaton because of their quality. I would think that the reason most people buy Leviton is Eaton is not that well known.
I have both a Lowe's and Home Depot across the street from each other. I find HD is better stocked and easier to find what I need than at Lowe's.
Eaton has more robust construction. I've purposely over tightened both and can't seem to strip out the Eaton connector plates. It also has plenty of surface area to conduct what it says it will. All other outlets I've tested this way stripped out.
Hey Wayne, have you ever tried out the Legrand (Pass & Seymour) brand? Those are honestly now my favorite but I still like the Eaton option.
The metal tabs on the Eaton receptacles are beefier. I had no idea they were designed beefy to strip wiring. Thanks for letting me know but I'll probably stick to my Knipex strippers. I like Eaton receptacles because the tabs seem to provide additional outlet support for sloppy box installations. Leviton was my preferred brand before discovering the Eaton's gave me a sturdier outlet. I absolutely despise spongee feel receptacles.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔.......,,
Never knew about the stripper. Now that I know about it, I can't say it is of value to me. I prefer to use my strippers.
Great point. Way too much flex on cheaper outlets, especially the consumer grade. Doesn't affect anything to my knowledge but certainly feels better when plugging and unplugging things to have it solid and not bend back.
I have never liked Leviton, because they sell so much cheap stuff. I did buy one recently only because it was to be dedicated to a CO detector, so I won’t be plugging things in all the time. I hate those child-proof shutters. For my new kitchen outlets, I have Eaton/Cooper commercial grade without the shutters. These are Eagles. Eagle used to be a separate brand. They don’t use the name any more, but the part numbers start with “EAG.”
The other thing I like about the Eatons is being able to get my preferred color (light almond).
I just want to give you a word of encouragement. This video was really useful, and I'm glad I took time to watch it. Thank you!
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔......,
just from watching video i agree with you i like the eaton features better and the more robust the blades are in the eaton one. i will keep my eyes out for them but i normally buy at menards and have not seen them there
Great breakdown and analysis! Thank you for doing this! The other Eaton secret feature is the plate screw grabber - "Screw catch (TM)". You can push in the plate screw, it will catch on the plastic and hold. So no hands required to hold the plate or screw, while you transition to a screwdriver. Extra nice when mounting on a ceiling.
Nice, I didn’t know about the Screw Catch. Thanks for the info 👍
Thanks!
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔
Thanks! Anytime a feature is revealed that makes a job easier is well appreciated. 👍
You didn't address the contact durability, which is most important!
FWIW, the fasteners holding on the Eaton cover aren't screws. They're ring-shank nails, or ring-shank studs. You'll note that the ridges are not helical, nor are there slots, recesses, or flats that would give a driver purchase. The stud is merely pressed into the plastic and the rings keep it from backing out.
Just in case you need to order some.
I’m glad to see Eaton’s spec grade receptacles are up to snuff. I recently bought a 10 pack of their non-spec, tamper-resistant 5-15R’s, and... everything about them is disappointing. They’re going to be replaced soon.
Yeah, I have been impressed and recently switched from the Leviton Spec-grade to the Eaton Spec-grade. I think you will like them
Love your channel. Always showing some cool stuff. Love plumbing and electrical which are my favorites. Please keep it coming!
Will do Beo, thanks for the kind words 👍
Leviton is pretty much my default switch and outlet provider when I'm doing something around my house. It comes down to features and options. around my area, either HD or Lowes, it mainly comes down that Leviton has a lot more of the readily available market for specialty switches and outlets. When I update an outlet, I usually am adding a Combo USB charger, or updating a GFCI outlet. It comes down that Leviton is the one I can walk in and buy easiest. Same for Dimmer or other control type switches.
Find em on sale more often too
Ditto, and I have standardized on Leveton WiFi switches.
Do a bent test on the metal tabs that anchor the receptacles, you will be surprised of the results. One of the brands has a much higher quality, much hardener metal. A simple finger bend will tell the tale.
Stripping option would only be good for the dyi person that does not have to buy the real tools.
You didn't mention this nice Eaton feature: "Patented built-in wire looper for pre-looping". I think it's great!
I love that too!
You just sold me on the Eaton spec grade receptacles. But I have standardized on using Leviton GFCI receptacles. I like the green light in the corner that says it is on and working. Eaton has a nice pdf brochure online with the new changes in NEC 2020. On page 5, there is a real handy chart that compares what is required for GFCI and AFCI in each of the past NEC versions. Google "2020 NEC Code changes brochure eaton" and look at page 5.
Also its not so much about the feature because once can make a good looking feature but then use substandard metal inside of it. Idk either way but what i can tell you is that Leviton will last for decades & still not have any issues with them, even when they were not cleaned out properly.
Eaton for sure. Definitely love the back-wire feature. I've cranked down pretty hard and never stripped one out.
I really like videos like this as a landlord I really think this is a great way to get my monies worth..and you explain it all so well.subscriber for life. ..most of the houses I rent are older homes so I've had an electrician come fix them I trusted his suggestions because hes older.but hes now gone and I'm finding out that the younger gen dont have his style or his class of perfection.so now I'm trying to do it all myself which is harder then one would think.
To me? It will always be EAGLE vs LEVITON. The design of the EATON is EAGLE.
Regarding the internal builds of these, Leviton should last longer with something plugged in over a long period of time because of the "spring like" pressure on both sides of each flat prong, while the Eaton should last longer when used in an application that sees a lot of plugging and unplugging like in a hotel where the outlet is used for vacuums. I use Leviton because that's what I have available where I live, but the Eaton is much burlier of a build.
In my experience Leviton devices sit more flush with the plate, and Eaton sits a bit proud, with the wall being perfect. if there are any imperfections in the drywall, than it is easy for the Leviton devices to have the device sitting almost behind the plate leaving a gap. This makes the Eaton devices easier to install for me, so I prefer them from that standpoint. P&S (Legrand) devices seem to install similar to Eaton, however they have a more matte finish to them which I prefer over the shiny plastic (easily shows scratches) of Eaton and Leviton.
Curious to see the other brands broken open, but I'd personally rate P&S > Eaton > Leviton. (haven't had any experience with hubbell)
Thanks for the review. I do tend to use Leviton due to familiar with it. I also use Leviton for residential data com for CAT5, coax, and audio faceplate connections. I don’t like the back wire approach and prefer the ‘J’ connection for better mechanical connection.
Good call, I have traditionally used Leviton until i recently bought a box of Eatons at Lowes. The Eaton is far superior as the plate design is so much easier to work with. The leviton plate tends to get in the way with gravity where the Eaton stays put. This makes a big difference if you are using stranded THHN so you dont get a flying lead (one of the small wires thast doesnt go into the slot).
I can understand that using the back wire method is faster and easier but does it really give you more surface area than a J hook connection? I would say just from a hypothesis standpoint that the J hook would have more surface area then the back wiring method. Which to me is superior. But nonetheless I love your videos and continue the good work
I've heard that backwiring often isn't even up to code nowadays, since it only contacts the wire at a narrow edge; many local governments want you to use the screw terminals. I always do; I don't ever trust backwiring connections.
UPDATE: Actually, I was referring to the merely-push-in or "backstabbing" connections, not the much-more-solid back-wiring terminals with a screw and pressure-plate. Thanks, "Blake L", for bringing that distinction to my attention --- his message is in the replies below. :D
@@Quacks0 yes I have been told that the back wire was not approved by code. Back in the old days we used to jumper circuits in the back wire (which may never have been allowed but we did it due to laziness back then).
Code requires approved devices. Such as UL Listed or NEMA. As long as devices have that stamp of approval then its legal. Manufacturers approved devices supersede local code because it’s approved for the application. Local jurisdictions may request a certain wiring method, but it’s not code.
@@TheForgottenMan270 I'm pretty sure that's pretty obvious that you should only be using code compliant products for your house wiring. My question was about the surface area between the different connections And which has more more of contacting surface area in the connection rather than it being approved for such applications
@@Quacks0 Pressure plates have plenty of surface area and there is a ridge on the center of the eaton plates that bites into the wire providing better secure locking than a J-hook. Those aren't like the cheapo backwire one way push throughs.
I do use Leviton but I use the Extra Heavy Duty Grade ones which do have the more robust back wiring features.
The "beveled" face on the Eaton seems that it would guide a plug into the slots easier.
That is correct, I think some people like the look of a flat receptacle face but can make it much harder to plug something in.
Actually like the contact on the Eaton. The one thing that drives me crazy is plugs falling out of the receptacles after a few years use. The wire strip is fairly useless unless you are a DIYer with no strippers available.
My good man,, Leviton is predominate because of history. I'm 40 years in on construction... reliability, name recognition, durability, over the years. That does not mean they cannot be superceded! I will be looking into the Eaton brand.
I am a retired journeyman electrician and over the years I always preferred the Leviton units, but after viewing this video, I think now the Eaton may be a better unit because mechanically it appears a bit more robust than the Leviton. I never used the push in terminations in all receptacles because I thought they were lest sturdy than the push in type, so it took just a bit more time to use the J-Hook application, but I felt better because I thought it was more electrically sound. Now if I were still a practicing electrician, I would go for the Eaton receptacle.
One feature of the Eaton I don't see mentioned is how the faceplate screw works. On install, the faceplate screw gets pushed into the small plastic tabs (notice the three sided hole?) and is held in place while you straighten the screw and plate for alignment. It seems that the Eaton is designed completely for a single tool install and specifically for a faster install. I think in a race, a tech could install many more Eaton plugs than the Leviton in the same time frame, and if your job was to install plugs on a complete floor of a condo complex, once you got used to the Eaton, you could do it all will just a drill driver, then go back with faceplates and finish.
Leviton seems to dominate the market, so many people do not see or know about the other brands out there. The same is true with breakers. In the US it seems like Square D and Cutler Hammer have like 90% of the market, with the remaining 10% GE, Seimins, and a handful of others. I have noticed that a lot of industry/commercial use Square D, whereas residential is mostly Cutler Hammer. The two also operate differently, Square D trips and the toggle goes to the center position and a orange flag shows up in a window, to reset you push to the full off position and then back to on. Cutler Hammer breakers look like a large light switch toggle, there is no trip position, it trips and snaps to the off position, thus there is no indication of a short/overload or if someone flipped it off. Also any double pole breakers (such as the main disconnect, or any 240 volt circuits) on the CH are two breakers with a locking bar between them, whereas SD locks them together internality with a single toggle operating it.
Prong receptacles - didn’t anyone noticed that the Eaton has dual copper horizontal spikes instead of one horizontal on the Leviton. That seems better to me.
The contacts or terminals are actually Brass.
I've always preferred the commercial grade receptacle to the cheapest. Until this video I thought the Leviton was the best, but after seeing this comparison I will definitely be using the Eaton from now on. Thank you for doing this video.
The Eaton outlet and switch designs were originally from a company called Eagle. They were made as far back as the 70s I believe. In 2002, they were bought by Cooper, and new design revisions included the distinctive ears with the built in wire strippers. Recently, as you said, Eaton bought Cooper. I think that particular Leviton design has been around for a while, but maybe not as long.
History and availability. Always used Leviton and never a problem. Leviton is the brand at Home Despot - greatly influencing availability. Lowe's too far away for me. Menards - Midwest big box home center - sells LeGrand/Pass and Seymour - a brand I remember from the 50's. Interested in seeing that one from the inside.
Thanks for the feedback actually I am also interested in taking a looking at both the Legrand (PS) and Hubbell as a good number of people in the comments recommend those 2 brands.
Eaton's 15 and 20 amp outlets are the same, except for the faceplate.
As an electrician... These particular backwire features of both brands I would use for stranded wire only.
At one time before these better backwires existed on the commercial receps, stranded wire was required by some municipalities code enforcement to have spades, such as: Sta-Kon, 3M, Panduit, etc., to be crimped onto the stranded wire before putting under a screw.
With these commercial backwires, they do seem to hold stranded wires quite well.
I would like to see pull ratings done using solid wire conductors on these backwires.
The fault I find with these, is the screws were never tightened enough and when you fold the wires back into the boxes it moves the wire under the pressure plates causing looseness and becomes a hot spot. If using solid, I still wrap around the screw.
When using receptacles in a circuit run... I make all my wires up and put under a wire nut. I leave a single set of pigtails out of the box to wrap around the outlet screw. If the outlet fails.. it doesn't affect the rest of the circuit.
Thanks for the comments and feedback. 👍
I bought the cheaper ones from Menards,...I don't remember the brand. after a few years, plugs just fall out of them.
At least in my area you are probably talking about a residential grade Legrand receptacle.
I got thinking about the Eaton strip feature and can actually envision a late-night event where I have a screw driver handy and open the box and woah, the stripped wire is broken so I could just use the stripping feature, otherwise it seems like a slower process. But if your plier has fallen off your belt and you just want to get the job done - slow is better than a trip back for another tool.
Come on, the built in stripper on the Eaton separates it from the competition. I’ve been in situations where I dropped or forgot my strippers, usually at a location that’s difficult to work in. Could mean one less trip.
If all else fails it could get you out of a bind
I do appreciate this video. I've been an electrician for 24 years and have used both brands. I have found the Leviton brand to be made of better materials. The side terminal screws on the Eaton strip and leave loose connections. I have seen both brands overheat due to loose connections. The difference that I've seen in the two is the Eaton one melts, and the Leviton one warps and gets discolored.
Well done. I can confirm Lowes has the Eaton product Sept 2023. I bought a bulk pack and installed them today. It’s a superior product under $3.
I doubt seriously if I'd ever use the strip wire function on those type outlets since I always use my wire stripping pliers which is for me way faster but I agree that the grey outlets here are somewhat better in their design being light colored are easier and faster when making your connections! I wish they were at home depot or lowes!
I have to add now that eaten will be my new go to now that I know that lowes handles them! I also wish their were more lowes stores like there are home depots!
I'm a landlord, and I use the Eaton when I have to replace a worn out outlet, precisely because of the backwire feature. I used to use the cheap residential outlets, until one time when I accidentally bought a box of commercial outlets. It turned out the backwire feature made it so much easier to use that it was well worth the extra money, not to mention that they'll last much longer. So, now I get nothing but Eaton commercial.
so fyi. backwire is normally done in residential due to the speed (which usually equals shortcuts) in the commercial world, more times than not, its spec'd out to be sidewire (J hook) and prohibits backwiring cuz of the failure rate.
@@bobbygecko - Are you sure the prohibition isn’t just for the push-in type of connection?
@@bobbygecko push in connections are job security for me because I'm a service tech
I knew about the failed secret wire stripper.
I tried it once and had the same poor result he did. Maybe good in an emergency but for general use completely useless.
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Eaton is Cooper/Arrow Hart. Is the better quality hands down. I've been an electrician for 40 yrs. and can say with confidence that Cooper/Arrow Hart always been the heavy duty between them and Leviton. 50 cent devices are junk...period! I use 15A and 20A spec grade Eaton recepts when applicable for resident/dwellings.
You do know everybody uses decora design today..The best was the new receptacles that where kid proof. Had to have both holes pushed at the same time. I got curly hair cause i used tweezers.There was no way no how to put a plug into them.Plus gfci and the other stupid fuse.Next will be using aluminum wiring! Positive side you don't have to pay for heat when your house burns down.LOL
Pro..1..wite stripper.. ground up or down...safety issue...ground up. Reason..ground prong longest on cord cap..it makes contact with ground contact before power prong makes contact..safty reason.. if something slides down the wall behind the cord cap it will come in contact with the ground before contaCting a power prong. Always ground up..
I'm an electrician with 30+ years of experience.
Why are you using non-TR receptacles???? They are illegal.
These are NOT the same grade receptacles. That is an upgraded Eaton ...I know this because I've done what you've done ...taken them apart and you are looking at an upgraded Eaton. You may be comparing a commercial grade Eaton to a Homeowner Leviton. The standard Eaton does *not* have a 20 amp socket connection. The commercial grede Leviton does have a 20 amp connection for the plug.
Go to any professional electrician's forum and you will see how much we despise back-stab connections. Don't use them ...it's a sure sign of an amatuer
Eaton receptacles fail more than Leviton. Eaton's AFCI circuit breakers fail more than any other brand. This is coming from a guy who installed 2 Eaton panels in his own home 16 years ago -I've had no problem with them, but I would not buy an Eaton product today. Over-priced and lower quality than the other brands I use.
The problem is where most DIYers get their supplies...and it's from big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes...and Leviton is the brand that is prevalent there.
For sure, Leviton has by far the largest distribution.
Your videos on receptacles are amazingly comprehensive! Very well done. Leviton, Eaton, and P&S are my preferred brands. But I buy above the residential spec devices, I'd rather spend a little more for the quality.
Why do you prefer "Back Wiring to J Hooks"?
I think there is less room for error for DIYers. I would not necessarily have the same through process for professionals.
I'm a residential electrician apprentice. I've installed hundreds of Leviton and Eaton outlets. I'd take Eaton any day. I find it very difficult to get my loops around the screws on Leviton. And thats with 14 and 12 gauge.
Leviton name is more familiar to me. After video I’m going with Eaton and that’s good cause I mostly shop Lowe’s. Thanks for info. Can’t wait to see second video.
Love your channel. Great advice that you don't get on the TV Handyman shows!
The Leviton Commercial Grade receptacle that is illustrated in this video appears to be Leviton's so called "Plus" Model which you can find at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as CBR15 and it sells for $ 2.18 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as CBR20 and it sells for $ 3.28 - Leviton's next Grade up from their Commercial Grade is known as their Industrial Grade "Plus Pro" which are the models which I very much prefer - Their Industrial line is also available at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as 5252 and it sells for $ 6.28 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as 5352 and it sells for $ 7.28 - Relatively speaking, their Industrial line costs about 3 times as much as their Commercial line but they are worth it - The Back Wire terminals of their Industrial line looks very much like the Eaton receptacle that is shown in this video in that the Back Wire connection terminals have two molded slots per terminal which will allow you to firmly attach two wires to each said terminal if the need should arise - The Ground terminal of their Industrial line ("Plus Pro") also offers a Back Wire (clamp/screw) connection which their Commercial line does not - Their Commercial line ("Plus") only has a screw (no clamp apparatus) - The Ground terminal of the Eaton receptacle shown in this video also appears to be the same as the Leviton (screw only - no clamp apparatus) - When installing High Grade receptacles which come with Back Wire connection terminals, my preference is to use the Back Wire Connection terminals - In my opinion, a Back Wire connection is (1) easier / quicker to connect than a Side Wire connection, (2) is just as firm as a Side Wire connection, (3) seems to make it easier to push the receptacle back into the box than what a Side Wire connection does and (4) in certain installs, such as Split Feeds, you might need to attach two wires to a single terminal which a Side Wire connection does not allow you to do (prohibited by Code) - In summary, buy Leviton's Industrial Grade receptacles and use the Back Wire connection terminals to make all your connections
Howard thanks for all the great info! Appreciate the engagement.
You mentioned a split feed and attaching two wires to the black terminal. Why would you do that? I haven't heard of it (not an electrician).
A Duplex receptacle has two plugs (an upper and a lower) which are normally joined / connected together by a Common Fin on both sides (Hot terminal sides and the Neutral terminal sides) of the receptacle when you first buy them - The Common Fins can be broken off which will allow you to feed each plug separately - There are several different wiring configurations that you can use when you wire up a Duplex receptacle in Split Feed mode - Basically, the wiring configuration that you will use will depend on what you are trying to accomplish - I will give you the two most common applications of a Split Feed - Probably the most common application is in a high demand area such as a Kitchen or Workshop, where you might want each plug of the receptacle to be from a different circuit - In this case, you will need two hot wires coming into the box from two different circuits - Normally, this is done with one cable which would contain two hot wires (normally, a color coded Black wire and a color coded Red wire), a Neutral wire and a Ground wire - Normally, only the Hot Common Fin is broken off leaving the Neutral Common Fin intact - You would connect one hot wire to the hot terminal of one plug and the other hot wire to the hot terminal of the other plug - The Neutral wire can be connected to the Neutral terminal of either plug - The other most common application is were you wire up one plug to be constantly on and the other plug to be controlled from an upstream switch - The upstream switch is most commonly your every day wall switch that you would normally use to turn on a lamp that is plugged into the receptacle that is controlled by the switch - In this case, you can either use two hot wires fed from two different circuits or two hot wires from the same circuit - In this setup, the Hot Common fin would be broken off - The Neutral Common Fin is normally left intact but could be broken off if you are supplying the box with two separate cables which would have two separate neutrals - The answer to your specific question "why would you want to connect two wires to the Black terminal" is as follows - In a split feed configuration, the Hot terminal of each plug is supplied with a separate Hot wire which may or may not be from the same circuit and which may or not be controlled by an upstream switch - No matter what Split Feed configuration you decide to use, you will always have at least one Hot wire attached to the Hot terminal of each plug - With that being said, your question now becomes >> Why do you need to attach another Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals of one of the plugs - The answer is >> You don’t always need a third Hot wire - Again, as I mentioned, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish - The most common reason for attaching an extra Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals is >> Most electricians, in an effort to save time and money, will wire up their circuits in a Daisy Chain configuration which means that each receptacle box in the chain / circuit will be wired up with one incoming cable supplying power into the box and one outgoing cable to supply power to all other downstream receptacles in the chain / Circuit - The Hot wire of the outgoing cable would need to be connected to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs in order to feed the other receptacles downstream - In the alternative, rather than connecting the Hot wire of the outgoing cable to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs and the Neutral wire to one of the Neutral terminals and Ground wire to the Ground terminal, some electricians will use a so called Pigtail configuration which I do not prefer - In a Pigtail configuration, NONE of the outgoing cable wires are connected to the receptacle - See my other post at ua-cam.com/video/_rRa_CedJ38/v-deo.html which explains my position regarding the use of Pigtails on High Grade recepatacles - Reply back if you still have questions
@@rjtumble As an example of one of the things you can do. I needed to wire a lamp (that had a failed switch). Built a small box, installed an outlet and split it. One was always hot, for a phone charger, the other was wired to a switch to turn the lamp off and on.
Wow! I learned a lot watching your video. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
If you have to replace one outlet, in a homeowner's 3rd floor attic, and you forgot your strippers plus you're already in the attic, dang right I'll use that "hidden feature."
Seems fair 🙂
Forgot your strippers? That actually happens? My multitool lineman's pliers/cutter/stripper is attached to me like an arm. 🙂
I guess your right but if your replacing a outlet, you would know you need a screwdriver from the tool box, and that would hopefully jog your memory to bring any additional tools you need, strippers, tape, flashlight, etc.
Meh. I have my old mil-spec electrician's knife on me at all times. Far less hassle to strip the wire with that and then slip the second blade out to drive the screws.
I use Leviton, but must admit the Eaton looks better. Leviton is just an old, reliable chouce for me.
You and many others. I still think the Leviton is a good product but think Eaton has an edge if given the choice.
Next Video, cut open power strips. They are made all over the world, also counterfeit UL labeling. Thanks, good video.
The strength of the backwire connection is what sold me on the Eaton (then Cooper) way long ago. It was the first time I felt I wasn't skimping when I did a backwire instead of a sidewire. I was surprised by the results of the survey. In the beginning I thought all receptacles were the same, or that nuances didn't matter much. But after replacing receptacles with loose backwires (yes backwires, not push-ins - although replaced bad ones of those more), I noticed they all weren't the same. The ones that worked well were the Eatons (then Coopers).
Bonus, I find the Eaton backwire easier to use than Leviton's. The hard stop when the wire goes in to the same place every time, the reliable grab of backwire plate, it's a solid action. The Leviton can involve a little fiddling to be in the right spot, and you can push the wire too far onto the insulation. However, Eaton's sidewire can take practice to get good on. If you don't get the length+angle of the wire and loop right or you are pressuring the screw the wrong way, you can spend a minute or more fighting to get it in. It is doable quickly, though, just have to learn it.
Good stuff RJ and thanks for all the feedback.
What loop? You put the wire in straight, so I am confused by what you said.
@@illestofdemall13 In regards to a loop, I was talking about when sidewiring. This is where the wire goes around the screw, and pressured between the screw head and the plate.
@@RJ-ej1nr Got it now, thanks. I never make a loop when the have the clamp/plate, so I guess I kind of forgot you can still use them that way. Lol
The built-in wire stripper on the Eaton is probably something most people don't even know exists.
This is essentially a review. Not a normal review, but like how they used to be before....
I would not use the wire stripping feature on the Eaton model.
You and me both.
Eaton/Cooper is the better product. If money is no object, go with Hubbel/ Bryant industrial. That being said, most housewives don't want to use both hands to unplug or plug in their vacuums , mixers, etc.
Like grandma use to say you get what you pay for!!! I'd go with the Eaton too.
Grandma is always right 😉
You should have thrown a walmart outlet in the mix so people would stop buying that crap and installing them next to where they sleep. Just the weight difference should be a clue its junk.
The Eaton has another hidden feature. The hole in the center, for the cover-plate screw, is triangular; you can put the plate on and just press the screw into position, and the sides of that tiny triangle grip the screw & hold it while you get the screwdriver.
You are right I completely missed that feature and that is super handy. Maybe I should do a quick story (15 second video) and call out the feature. Thanks for the feedback 👍
ALSO, I LIKE THE PLUG BLADE FUNNEL GUIDE ON THE EATON. IF YOU ARE PLUGGING IN, IN THE DARK, THE PLUG WILL FUNNEL INTO THE RECEPTACLE ON THE EATON EASIER. IT IS CLEARLY WORTH THE LOUSY EXTRA QUARTER COST ON BULK, FOR THE EATON FEATURES, IMO.
When you take tamper-resistant into account, and we all have to deal with that now, Eaton blows Leviton out of the water.
Hubbell beats both in the TR device!
@@kirbybooth6735 Hubbell is doggy doody in TR, sorry. They’re just plain awful, what they’re passing off nowadays. Great way to alienate your users.
@@declanfarber the Hubbell TR mechanism is much more user friendly, take way less pressure to open than the others.
@@kirbybooth6735 The Eaton’s have a smoother response, the Hubbells are like trying to shiv an alligator, in comparison.
The tamper resistance never made sense to me. Just let the kid stick the key in once and he’ll never do it again.
Leviton is a design from the 1970s... it's the old standard in which everyone else is trying to duplicate by adding small features. It's like comparing an automobile from 1975 to an auto from 2000.
Great video, I love seeing things broken down and compared on this level, very informative. Would love to see this done with their GFCI outlets as well!!
Good Comparison between Leviton and Eaton outlets. I also prefer Eaton outlet. Eaton just seems to be better than Leviton and both are very economical.
Yeah, to be honest the price is pretty reasonable for what you are getting. I have no problem spending the $2.00 per unit compared to the cheap $0.50 receptacles.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the price per unit are surprisingly cheap. It costs less than a cup of coffee at Peet. 👻 I would rather pay more to get good quality Outlets that would last and safe.
Beside Leviton and Eaton, Is there any better quality outlet with larger capacity and/or more safety feature for home and commercial use in the market?
Thank you for making such a good video😹👻😂👍
I remember realizing that 'Leviton' had cleverly disguised the phrase 'Leave It On' into their brand name...
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I'm not surprised. Leviton is the cheap consumer level stuff you find in every low-end department store (as well as builder stores like Home Depot). But just pick those two outlets up in your hand that he showed in the video and it is painfully obvious that Eaton are better-made products.
The Leviton is marked as "spec grade" which in this case (model BR15) is really commercial spec grade, whatever that means, but it's not Fed spec wc596 rated for some reason. The Eaton (also model BR15) is Fed spec wc596 rated.
Handy tip: if your dealing with stranded wire on a bolt down, like a terminal block, twist the strands counter clockwise. Wrap your Jay clock wise, n tighten snuggled 🙂 hope this helps
There are no stranded wires connecting plugs or switches.PERIOD.
@@felagoran7076 24volt DC command hmu, relay and door bell
@@felagoran7076 don't forget anything above 12 gage
@@felagoran7076
Where are you located and what types of properties/equipment do/have you worked on?????