The Tip withbdriving the balljoint in with a Hammer saved me from going crazy😂 hard enough to get it out... Hell of a Job today in the floor but finally did it
For guys about to do this with a ratchet strap: I found a ratcheting chain binder works better, you can actually control tension releasing it. You don't even necessarily need chain, some slings/straps with a ring to grab onto work just find for this application
when i have done these in the past, i removed the brake caliper, the bolts to the strut tower, and bolt for the the axle, and slid axle out of the center of the rotor. disconnect the speed sensor, but undoing the nut and taking it out of the holder, bungi the caliper up to the strut tower, and also the axle, so they are not dangling. you will have all of the room to take out the control arm and put back in. alittle more more, but you wont need a strap. always get an alignment after replacing suspension parts.
You did an excellent job of showing how to do this. there are various ways to replace these parts. great job, great video work also. i make videos and know it can be frustrating and difficult to try and explain and get all the right shots in the video. you did a fantastic job.
Good job, im doing this tomorrow...I did the right side today, got a little cold and started snowing, so i gave up...But even in Volvos tech manual they state that you should use a ratchet strap when doing this kind of work ..
The problem with the ratchet strap method is the angle of the strap - it is about 70 degrees compared with the movement you want of the control arm. If there were a way of pulling down instead of across the car, it would work much easier and better. Like a fastener in the floor of your garage. I ruined two straps doing this previously. Personally, I am removing the knuckle when I do this to avoid the aggravation, and I will pay to have it re-aligned. Initially, I thought you got yours to fit when you swiveled the arm over and I thought "wow that was too easy".
If there were another way I could've done it on the drive I would. When I work at my friends garage on a lift he has a railroad spike that allows enough leverage to do this. I was constantly worried the ratchet strap would slip off.
awesome video. I am confident now I can do it at my house as well :) But I did not see you torque everything to spec. You just torque it down snug, or you trust they will torque it down to spec when you realign your car?
I don’t torque everything on every job but everything is tight enough. Tightening torques are available online or in manuals such as the Haynes manual. Always torque wheels, driveshafts and hub nuts etc.
Thanks a lot for the video man, going to do this job (and at the same time 2 new struts) soon and your video helps a lot! The only thing I'm constantly worried about is the driveshaft dislocating at one of the joints but I guess I'm just gonna have to keep the entire hub assembly pushed towards the engine. BTW, you got me sweating at 11:26, that would've hurt if the ratchet strap failed at that exact moment!
I just rebuilt an early 2007 xc70 P2 right side (psgr US) driveshaft - in those later years the inner bearing housing is peened so the joint in the shaft can't dislocate; I had to grind away 6 peens so I could completely disassemble (left a little so it would reassemble with a good whack, but stay assembled). Not sure what year they started doing that; also I didn't have a zillion needle bearings to fall out and lose, just three sealed units. The outer joint had a C-clip. Cheers!
@@mcardlepm turns out I have drive shafts with inner CV joints that do seperate! It consists out of 6 metal balls and a cage. I actually managed to dislocate it while turning the spindle away in order to get the new control arm in... Going to pull the entire right hand shaft out of the transmission tomorrow to see if I can clean it up and reassemble it, luckily I already have CV joint grease lying around, so I hope all goes well.. The entire thing turned out to be a bigger project than I anticipated 🤣 thanks for the reply though btw!
Hi when you jacked up the trans/engine to remove lower control arm bolt, did you have to unbolt any engine mount firts??? I want to replace new bolts in the right hand control and and need to lift engine to do this??? thanks for your vid;-)
Did you reuse the hardware that secures your Control arms, that’s single use “torque to yield” hardware. Torque to yield means that you torque to a “a” nm then rotate “b” degrees. The two horizontal bolts are torque to 65nm dry and rotate 105° the vertical is 105nm dry + 180°. I understand your desire to make a video and share with the community but with that comes the responsibility of doing the job correctly.
Yes I reused and haven’t/won’t have any issues. They’re not stretch bolts and tight is tight, not the first time I’ve had them out either. The majority of garages wouldn’t torque bolts such as these. I appreciate your comment and I have battled with those thoughts myself but at the end of the day I’m not claiming to be a professional and I’m recording how I did the job on my personal car. I could use and display every torque specification for every bolt but that won’t help the majority of people.
Gloves tear on every job, I would much prefer to be wearing them. If you manage to do it with a jack please record it. I tried using the jack before, it moves the hub away from the car making it impossible to get the ball joint in.
The Tip withbdriving the balljoint in with a Hammer saved me from going crazy😂 hard enough to get it out... Hell of a Job today in the floor but finally did it
For guys about to do this with a ratchet strap: I found a ratcheting chain binder works better, you can actually control tension releasing it. You don't even necessarily need chain, some slings/straps with a ring to grab onto work just find for this application
Great video. Glad that it wasn't only me coming across the same issues when doing the same job
when i have done these in the past, i removed the brake caliper, the bolts to the strut tower, and bolt for the the axle, and slid axle out of the center of the rotor. disconnect the speed sensor, but undoing the nut and taking it out of the holder, bungi the caliper up to the strut tower, and also the axle, so they are not dangling. you will have all of the room to take out the control arm and put back in. alittle more more, but you wont need a strap. always get an alignment after replacing suspension parts.
I do the same thing. It's extra to take apart but makes the job smoother which in my opinion is a better way to go.
Your video was of great help to me and deserves substantially more than 50 thumbs up. Thank you.
Glad to help! You’re welcome ☺️
I’m convinced now that it’s a lot easier to remove the knuckle from the drive shaft.
It's not too bad if you can get right under the car. I had to change the whole driveshaft anyway because the strut collapsed before and damaged it.
You did an excellent job of showing how to do this. there are various ways to replace these parts. great job, great video work also. i make videos and know it can be frustrating and difficult to try and explain and get all the right shots in the video. you did a fantastic job.
Very kind, thanks for that and hope it helps 👍
Thank you for the tip about the passenger side bolts
I have to replace my motor mounts anyway, so thanks for the tip on removing the front two bolts on the arm!
Good job, im doing this tomorrow...I did the right side today, got a little cold and started snowing, so i gave up...But even in Volvos tech manual they state that you should use a ratchet strap when doing this kind of work ..
Hope it went well for you Henrik!
@@IAMASPANNER Yes, i fixed the car :)
Thanks!
Very kind! Thanks very much for watching and the feedback!
I will add that it makes everything much easier if you disconnect the sway bar link when doing this type of job....
The problem with the ratchet strap method is the angle of the strap - it is about 70 degrees compared with the movement you want of the control arm. If there were a way of pulling down instead of across the car, it would work much easier and better. Like a fastener in the floor of your garage. I ruined two straps doing this previously. Personally, I am removing the knuckle when I do this to avoid the aggravation, and I will pay to have it re-aligned. Initially, I thought you got yours to fit when you swiveled the arm over and I thought "wow that was too easy".
If there were another way I could've done it on the drive I would. When I work at my friends garage on a lift he has a railroad spike that allows enough leverage to do this. I was constantly worried the ratchet strap would slip off.
Was a nightmare i suppose.... thank you and great job. The best.
Thanks for showing us mortals this can be done using normal hand tools.
awesome video. I am confident now I can do it at my house as well :) But I did not see you torque everything to spec. You just torque it down snug, or you trust they will torque it down to spec when you realign your car?
I don’t torque everything on every job but everything is tight enough. Tightening torques are available online or in manuals such as the Haynes manual. Always torque wheels, driveshafts and hub nuts etc.
Really helpful thanks.
Glad to help!
Thanks a lot for the video man, going to do this job (and at the same time 2 new struts) soon and your video helps a lot! The only thing I'm constantly worried about is the driveshaft dislocating at one of the joints but I guess I'm just gonna have to keep the entire hub assembly pushed towards the engine. BTW, you got me sweating at 11:26, that would've hurt if the ratchet strap failed at that exact moment!
I just rebuilt an early 2007 xc70 P2 right side (psgr US) driveshaft - in those later years the inner bearing housing is peened so the joint in the shaft can't dislocate; I had to grind away 6 peens so I could completely disassemble (left a little so it would reassemble with a good whack, but stay assembled). Not sure what year they started doing that; also I didn't have a zillion needle bearings to fall out and lose, just three sealed units. The outer joint had a C-clip. Cheers!
@@mcardlepm turns out I have drive shafts with inner CV joints that do seperate! It consists out of 6 metal balls and a cage. I actually managed to dislocate it while turning the spindle away in order to get the new control arm in... Going to pull the entire right hand shaft out of the transmission tomorrow to see if I can clean it up and reassemble it, luckily I already have CV joint grease lying around, so I hope all goes well.. The entire thing turned out to be a bigger project than I anticipated 🤣 thanks for the reply though btw!
I was thinking the strap was going to slip and lose a finger!
Hi when you jacked up the trans/engine to remove lower control arm bolt, did you have to unbolt any engine mount firts??? I want to replace new bolts in the right hand control and and need to lift engine to do this??? thanks for your vid;-)
You shouldn’t need to touch the engine mounts, I didn’t. Hope this helps 👍
Did you reuse the hardware that secures your Control arms, that’s single use “torque to yield” hardware. Torque to yield means that you torque to a “a” nm then rotate “b” degrees.
The two horizontal bolts are torque to 65nm dry and rotate 105° the vertical is 105nm dry + 180°.
I understand your desire to make a video and share with the community but with that comes the responsibility of doing the job correctly.
Yes I reused and haven’t/won’t have any issues. They’re not stretch bolts and tight is tight, not the first time I’ve had them out either. The majority of garages wouldn’t torque bolts such as these. I appreciate your comment and I have battled with those thoughts myself but at the end of the day I’m not claiming to be a professional and I’m recording how I did the job on my personal car. I could use and display every torque specification for every bolt but that won’t help the majority of people.
Most other videos including 1A Auto do not use new hardware
Those are not TTY bolts...there's no sense using bolts that will stretch on a load bearing items...especially suspension...
Hi, you know gloves are cheap right,? You can use a jack to compress the strout hub assembly rather than the ratchet strap.
Gloves tear on every job, I would much prefer to be wearing them. If you manage to do it with a jack please record it. I tried using the jack before, it moves the hub away from the car making it impossible to get the ball joint in.
@@IAMASPANNER it is the best way to injure yorself....
😮 man its not hard but if u dont have torque its dreafful
Where did you get those rotors?!
MTEC brakes on eBay 👍