hey just a heads up did this the other day I bought a new pump and for some reason decided to pump it into an empty container and I'm glad I did because chunks of rubber came out in the pump even though it was brand new out of the box so maybe a quick tip pump some fluid into a jar and see if anything came out of your pump before you pump it into your rear end good video thanks
Nice job on the fluid change videos. I'll be changing the trans/diff fluids on my 2009 370z sport soon and wanted a little insight, so thanks. First it'll be a clutch line flush using AP600. I might go with the Redline MT-85 synthetic for the M/T and differential. All high temp fluids.
As far as jacking up the vehicle.. I always just use the pinch welds.. sure it bends them a little bit and then they pretty much stop bending once they are a little bit bent. Its a nice safe place.. out of the way of any where you need to work under the car, . and you aren't gonna accidentally put the jack anywhere it shouldn't go. I jacked my g35 up at the pinch welds at least 15 times when I owned the car for 2 years.. no problems.. the welds were a little bent but still perfectly useable. You need jack stands that have a shallow support at the top. You want 3 ton jackstands for this car. I had a pair of 2 ton jack stands and one of them bent a little bit being under the weight of my g35 coupe. You also want the jack stands that have shallow grooves at the top. A lot of 3 ton jack stands come with deep grooves for trucks and stuff like that... those are good for lifting the car at other places but if you are supporting under the pinch welds you want jack stands that do not have a very deep groove at that top and are shallow. That way the stand will actually support at the pinch weld and not press into ur door or whatever trim. I like to also put the jack under the car after the stands as an extra safety measure. You really can not take enough caution while having a vehicle on top of you. If you have two floor jacks .. use em both as extra precaution along with your jack stands.
Our 2012 G37 RWD with 83k on it and I'm planning on doing this before winter sets in. Have the Harbor Freight pump, used it to to a power steering (ATF fluid) flush recently (have vids posted).
Nice little video man. I have the same pump and I think it cost around 20 dollars and its completely necessary cause the diff oil bottle will not even come close to clearing enough for you to pour it right out the bottle. Differential oil.. old or new... stinks to high hell.. Its loaded in sulfur which is the classic fishy/ rotten egg smell. Careful with apt neighbors that might get bitchy or whatever. This shit smells like fish even more than it does rotten eggs and I cant really say which one is worse.
If budget allows- buy an extra quart.Once your done draining.Jack up front of car safely just 2 or so inches higher than rear.Pump in your extra guart to get all of the contaminated crap still in bottom.Keep that separate to see where you stand with wear and tear
Hey Ed I noticed you used the 75w-90 full synthetic, I was about to use the same but the gal at Valvoline customer service warned against it for the Z's and advised me to stay with the 80w-90 non synthetic. Have you noticed any change in your diff, and your thoughts?
1. Will the old rear diff fluid come out well although the car isn’t warmed up? 2. Is it possible to do rear diff fluid change without lifting/jacking up the car?
I'm going to be doing this procedure on my '12 G37 soon. I'd say drive it around for a little, as the fluid will be warmer and come out quicker and more complete than if cold. If you can get under the car, then do it, otherwise jacking it up will give more space as we driveway mechanics don't have lifts like the corner shops, which makes their jobs so much easier. Or use ramps and wheel chocks which will give you the clearance and keep the car level.
I couldn't really tell you as it depends on several scenarios, for example if the oil is warm it will drain faster. With that said, less than 10 minutes for sure.
I believe 30k miles is what manufacture recommends, I do mine once a year because it is very simple and cheap ( >$20) to do. Bearings and gears wear and the oil deteriorates just like engine oil.
Stupid question....But did you place your floor jack on the rear diff to jack it up? You should do a video on how to jack up a g. Your videos are awesome btw!
Marc Rafael honestly that's a little weird if you jack it up from the diff that means all the vehicles weight will be on it and it's not built for that. I will contact the dealership and question that. I will personally will not Jack it from the diff
Marc Rafael I see your point although the text does not say this but it seems like the picture does. I was still not recommend jacking up your vehicle from the diff
@@deenagutowski7464 30k? OMG. Just bought a '12 G37 rwd and it's got 83k on it, don't see any paperwork showing any changes but who knows with a used car?
@@blanejr1unless the oil was really old and bad the diff might start making weird noises until the oil is changed, or if it's too late it won't matter and the diff is done omg
Next time use a real synthetic gear oil. The major oil company oils are just Group 3. Molecularly-modified hydrocracked Dino oil or from Natural Gas. No synthetic base used. Use AMSOIL or Redline. Redline for this car and my G35 is 75W90. Look at the cost difference. The Redline thru Amazon is $22.74 a quart. Tells you that the Valvoline has no expensive synthetic base. Same with motor oil. 99% of so-called "synthetic" motor oil has no synthetic base like PAO or POE. It's just Group 3. Always use Group 4/5 for your G. Only 4 brands: REDLINE, AMSOIL Signature, Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs Racing (which is made by one of the first 3). Don't pay for Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol Edge. They are only phony synthetic Group 3 and are the same price as a real Group 4/5. If an oil is made in Germany or Japan, and says "Synthetic" on the label, it must by law be at least Group 4. Only in America are the people fooled about the terms "Synthetic", Full Synthetic" and 100% Synthetic" which have no meaning and are merely marketing terms. Sorry, Mobil 1 fanboys. The stuff they use on the racetrack can't be bought at your local Pep Boys.
Interesting to know. I'm about to do a Castrol Edge full synthetic oil change on our '12 G37 and have never used those other oils in any car, but perhaps it's time I reconsidered.
hey just a heads up did this the other day I bought a new pump and for some reason decided to pump it into an empty container and I'm glad I did because chunks of rubber came out in the pump even though it was brand new out of the box so maybe a quick tip pump some fluid into a jar and see if anything came out of your pump before you pump it into your rear end good video thanks
Thanks
I checked out several videos. The oil you changed out is like the cleanest😂
Nice job on the fluid change videos. I'll be changing the trans/diff fluids on my 2009 370z sport soon and wanted a little insight, so thanks. First it'll be a clutch line flush using AP600. I might go with the Redline MT-85 synthetic for the M/T and differential. All high temp fluids.
very good video as well as very good instructions. Keep it up you seem to like what you are doing and that's good.
I would highly recommend performing any fluid service on a level surface where the car isn't tilted forward or backward.
As far as jacking up the vehicle.. I always just use the pinch welds.. sure it bends them a little bit and then they pretty much stop bending once they are a little bit bent. Its a nice safe place.. out of the way of any where you need to work under the car, . and you aren't gonna accidentally put the jack anywhere it shouldn't go. I jacked my g35 up at the pinch welds at least 15 times when I owned the car for 2 years.. no problems.. the welds were a little bent but still perfectly useable. You need jack stands that have a shallow support at the top. You want 3 ton jackstands for this car. I had a pair of 2 ton jack stands and one of them bent a little bit being under the weight of my g35 coupe. You also want the jack stands that have shallow grooves at the top. A lot of 3 ton jack stands come with deep grooves for trucks and stuff like that... those are good for lifting the car at other places but if you are supporting under the pinch welds you want jack stands that do not have a very deep groove at that top and are shallow. That way the stand will actually support at the pinch weld and not press into ur door or whatever trim. I like to also put the jack under the car after the stands as an extra safety measure. You really can not take enough caution while having a vehicle on top of you. If you have two floor jacks .. use em both as extra precaution along with your jack stands.
you make it look so damn easy man. I appreciate the vid.
supremeNundftd that’s because it is so damn easy. Haha.
Darn looks like your diff bushings went out. You should post a diy on installing the whitelines.
Our 2012 G37 RWD with 83k on it and I'm planning on doing this before winter sets in. Have the Harbor Freight pump, used it to to a power steering (ATF fluid) flush recently (have vids posted).
great video thank man
What is the fluid already dripping down the outside of the diff case?!?
i need to add anything with oil, or just oil for differential ? only 1l is ok?
Can you change rear diff oil by jacking only one side up?
thanks man
OK to use a battery powered wrench rachet?
You should post more E30 vids...
Always change the washers... They are cheap and will save you issues down the road. They tend to leak if you don’t use the right torque specs
What kind of fluid did u use?
you do the same for the front on awd?
Nice little video man. I have the same pump and I think it cost around 20 dollars and its completely necessary cause the diff oil bottle will not even come close to clearing enough for you to pour it right out the bottle. Differential oil.. old or new... stinks to high hell.. Its loaded in sulfur which is the classic fishy/ rotten egg smell. Careful with apt neighbors that might get bitchy or whatever. This shit smells like fish even more than it does rotten eggs and I cant really say which one is worse.
If budget allows- buy an extra quart.Once your done draining.Jack up front of car safely just 2 or so inches higher than rear.Pump in your extra guart to get all of the contaminated crap still in bottom.Keep that separate to see where you stand with wear and tear
Next video quick and simple to the point
Hey Ed I noticed you used the 75w-90 full synthetic, I was about to use the same but the gal at Valvoline customer service warned against it for the Z's and advised me to stay with the 80w-90 non synthetic. Have you noticed any change in your diff, and your thoughts?
Nah
Good 👍
1. Will the old rear diff fluid come out well although the car isn’t warmed up?
2. Is it possible to do rear diff fluid change without lifting/jacking up the car?
I'm going to be doing this procedure on my '12 G37 soon. I'd say drive it around for a little, as the fluid will be warmer and come out quicker and more complete than if cold. If you can get under the car, then do it, otherwise jacking it up will give more space as we driveway mechanics don't have lifts like the corner shops, which makes their jobs so much easier. Or use ramps and wheel chocks which will give you the clearance and keep the car level.
i know this might sound like a dumb question, but differential oil change is for both auto and manual transmission cars right?
Yes it must be done on all cars.
Do you happen to know if it's the same on a 2013 G37S?
Yes it should be the same.
Damn u got a blown diff bushing that job is a pain getting that stupid sleeve out.
my question might sound stupid but, how many minutes does it take for the old oil to completely drain out?
maak lol I have not done it to my car but imma guess and say about 1-2minutes takes about 3 minutes on engine oil
I couldn't really tell you as it depends on several scenarios, for example if the oil is warm it will drain faster. With that said, less than 10 minutes for sure.
How many oz of oil did you use? I bought 1 32 oz looks like I need more oil.
I am not sure how many oz exactly, more than 32 for sure. basically just pump oil until it starts overflowing from the fill plug.
When and why should we change the rear dif oil?
I believe 30k miles is what manufacture recommends, I do mine once a year because it is very simple and cheap ( >$20) to do. Bearings and gears wear and the oil deteriorates just like engine oil.
Stupid question....But did you place your floor jack on the rear diff to jack it up? You should do a video on how to jack up a g. Your videos are awesome btw!
Marc Rafael never Jack it from the diff
300C 5.7 CB the manual in the Q50 actually shows to place a floor jack underneath the diff
Marc Rafael honestly that's a little weird if you jack it up from the diff that means all the vehicles weight will be on it and it's not built for that. I will contact the dealership and question that. I will personally will not Jack it from the diff
300C 5.7 CB Here is the link for the service manual for the Q50.
www.infinitiq50.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17370&d=1395006693
Marc Rafael I see your point although the text does not say this but it seems like the picture does. I was still not recommend jacking up your vehicle from the diff
What kind of oil used and how much replacement oil did you use and what made you change it.
80w-90 and you change it when the color is either black, after 50k miles, or every 2-3years.
Infiniti manual calls for differential fluid change every 30k miles.
@@deenagutowski7464 30k? OMG. Just bought a '12 G37 rwd and it's got 83k on it, don't see any paperwork showing any changes but who knows with a used car?
Why do most people go with 75-90 vs the recommended 80-90?
More readily available.
2010 manual says 75w90 for 7at 2wd models for rear differential
@@deenagutowski7464 I have a 2012 rwd 7a will check the manual.
How often are you suppose to change this?
More often than anyone does... lol...
What size socket wrench ?
10mm
is this the same for a g37x awd?
+latino914 The steps should be the same.
Ed's Mods thanks
tq 26 foot how the fuck do you know when that
how does ur car feels after changing the diff oil?
You wont notice any difference on how the car feels.
the car is very happy!
@@blanejr1unless the oil was really old and bad the diff might start making weird noises until the oil is changed, or if it's too late it won't matter and the diff is done omg
That was way more than 26 ft lbs...
most likely it was...
$189 + tax at the local Infiniti dealer to do this.
Crazy what shops charge for labor. Should be some type of federal law in place
@@cooldaddyslick6869 not with capitalism, they can set their own prices, you can choose to pay or not.
Next time use a real synthetic gear oil. The major oil company oils are just Group 3. Molecularly-modified hydrocracked Dino oil or from Natural Gas. No synthetic base used. Use AMSOIL or Redline. Redline for this car and my G35 is 75W90. Look at the cost difference. The Redline thru Amazon is $22.74 a quart. Tells you that the Valvoline has no expensive synthetic base. Same with motor oil. 99% of so-called "synthetic" motor oil has no synthetic base like PAO or POE. It's just Group 3. Always use Group 4/5 for your G. Only 4 brands: REDLINE, AMSOIL Signature, Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs Racing (which is made by one of the first 3). Don't pay for Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol Edge. They are only phony synthetic Group 3 and are the same price as a real Group 4/5. If an oil is made in Germany or Japan, and says "Synthetic" on the label, it must by law be at least Group 4. Only in America are the people fooled about the terms "Synthetic", Full Synthetic" and 100% Synthetic" which have no meaning and are merely marketing terms. Sorry, Mobil 1 fanboys. The stuff they use on the racetrack can't be bought at your local Pep Boys.
Interesting to know. I'm about to do a Castrol Edge full synthetic oil change on our '12 G37 and have never used those other oils in any car, but perhaps it's time I reconsidered.
What kind of fluid did u use?
+YoungBossSteppa
I used Valvoline Full Synthetic (LSD) Gear Oil 75W-90.
+Ed's Mods thanks
+Ed's Mods thanks