Clear concise no bullshit video. First class soldering technique. All we've got to do now is teach you how to pronounce the word "Solder" and a star will be born. :-))
Thanks for the positive feedback! With regards to solder, both are correct. UK and US versions: dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/solder All the Best!
I haven't sweated copper in over 20 years, just looked for a refresher, nothings changed thank goodness. After one test piece, the real thing came out great. Thanks
I am a dyslexic landscape contractor who needs to be reminded on proper copper soldering because I don’t do it that much. Thank you so much and I hope my next Joints look half as good as yours because of this video. God’s best
Very nice video. Too many instagram plumbers want to see no solder on joints, but yours, along with looking very neat, give the confidence of a leak free joint. Nice video !!!
Thanks for your Tutorial on plumbing solder w/ flux ..iam HVAC installer Tech for over 25 yrs & silver solder w/ # 15 usually or 45 % in some cases without an Hitch but plumbing solder has always given me troubles w/ mainly & bc of water being drawn to my heat but now I Think I got it NOW bc water heater are now part of our services alone with / HVAC service repairs & installation ..Thanks again
Hi Pat. I just wanted to say a big thank you for posting this video! I used it to help learn how to solder in some new valves, a new laundry faucet, and replace some copper tubing in my basement. Everything you covered here was spot on. I really appreciate how succinct this video was. There are other how to videos on UA-cam that show you how to solder copper, but they can be a little long winded and the visual examples aren't always great. Yours hit all the marks. It includes all the important information but leaves out the rambling. I can't say every solder joint I did turned out as pretty as what you showed, but they are all water tight.
This is the best how to video for newcomers to the art of soldering I’ve ever seen. I greatly appreciate the time spent to discuss joint preparation. That makes all the difference in a proper weld. Thank you for taking the time to help millions of people learn something that makes the job a professional one and helping homeowners learn the skills so they can stop using Sharkbite fittings.
I've got some repairs to do in my home with my copper piping. You explain and demonstrate the technique in a way that is very easy to understand. The best part of the video is showing common mistakes that are made. Thank you for taking the time to edit and post the video, I appreciate it. Be safe! Randy
When I gave it a thumbs up I noticed 125 had given it a thumbs down. No clue why because this is an excellent video. Well done! For those who don't know, Oatey offer a 9x12 hands free heat shield (black cloth with two grommets) similar to what he used - about $15.
Noob here. Watched a few videos like this one, made a few mistakes and learnt stuff. Quite rewarding when you get it right and you don't flood the house.
Although I've soldered many copper pipes and fittings, it's never too late to learn new tips or info, or refresh the process to be certain you're not forgetting or leaving something out. Thanks for the thorough and informative video. I did indeed learn something new, the part where you clean the edge of the fittings as well. What a great idea, I'm glad I thought of it. LOL JK Thanks again Pat.
Filled with gratitude after watching this video! Thank you so much for covering the common mistakes because that’s exactly what I have done! Hope ur well!
Watched about a dozen 'how to solder copper pipe' videos this afternoon, this is the only one I'm going to watch again just before actually doing it. Very well done. There are some similarities to wire soldering, but I don't see much mention of danger from one piece being too cold. Is that not an issue in pipe soldering? In other words, heating the fitting and the solder wicking in by capillary action but the pipe not hot enough? Also would love to see more videos from you on how to solder in tricky places, like adding a fitting to the bottom of a vertical pipe. How do you hold the fitting in place? And how to know whether you don't have a good, strong joint right away (rather than 1 year from now when no one is home) And I agree with posters who complimented your soldering -- the joint looks beautiful and smooth.
Thanks for the positive feedback and great ideas! I'm planning on making a follow up how-to solder video with the most asked questions. I'll be sure to include the technique of heating the tubing first. This is definitely a technique I use from time to time as well. I didn't show the technique in the video because as a DIY video some people might overheat the tubing, and the solder wouldn't flow properly. The technique you mention is definitely important when soldering thicker copper like type L and K. This is because type L and K copper are actually thicker than the fittings, and require more heat to bring the solder to a melting point. Soldering standard residential copper (type M) doesn't require heating the tubing first. For soldering fittings to the bottom of a vertical tube, I slightly squeeze the very end of the tube with a pair of adjustable pliers if it is in a tight spot. This will hold the fitting in place. If there's room I'll actually use a length of solder as a wire to hold up the section. Thanks for the great comment! All the Best!
Excellent! My first attempt was over 20 years ago, using propane on a new Hans Grohe shower valve that had more brass than I'd ever seen in my life. And we of course had vertical supply pipes with water, and I didn't know about the simple trick of sucking water out with a straw beforehand. I did manage to avoid burning a hole in the drywall, but the first 3 attempts were not successful and the joints looked awful ... but eventually held pressure. We sold that condo, and the plumbing was covered in fresh tiling, so I have no idea if it worked long-term or not.
awesome video. it's very helpful you are showing the end result and common mistakes, turning the pipe around. we need to know what it should look like at the end.
Kentucky Journeyman here... I've got to say, that is some of the most beautiful soldering I've personally ever seen. The only soldering I've seen better was an inspector that helped me get my license
Mike Oneill , yessir I am. I qualify a company in SC. You sir, are wrong. But, to clear matters up in your own mind, SC M110135 PB 2 should put you in your place sir. Also, a PE tag. Jackass.
TERRIFIC job all around: clear descriptions and speech, excellent video work, covered the bases beautifully and the soldered joints look perfect! Would love to see one about difficult connections and when using thicker pipe. When should the pipe be heated first, and how much? Though you show it, I'd also suggest mentioning that you're moving the torch around and not just constantly blasting away with it (like some of us beginner idiots do). You could point out that because you didn't heat it too much the flux stayed normal color and never turned black. The tip about the fitting not changing color was helpful. FANTASTIC work!
Well done video. Practical advice, easy to follow, and just enough info. I just watched it so I could replace a hose bib on an outdoor copper pipe. Was worried I'd muck it up, but it was easy, and despite my imperfect technique there are no leaks (tip: watch the key parts of the video twice, and JUST before you do the soldering). And the total cost, to get ALL the supplies from scratch, was $75-less than a plumber would've charged, and many of them probably don't want such small jobs anyway (my apologies to those who do).
I'm a apprentice plumber, those were some quality looking solder joints. Looked at your other uploads, they look a little infrequent and spread out, I'm still subscribing though. Hope to see some more videos from you soon!
Hi David, Thanks for the sub! Having only a trades background this whole UA-cam, filming, editing thing has been a steep learning curve. Hopefully as time goes on I can produce higher quality content and more frequently. Thanks again and best of luck on your apprenticeship!
@@PROSDIY haha! I can understand that! I have made zero videos. A shovel is a lot easier to use than a camera. The viewing quality of your videos is very good(my opinion as a watched of videos). Look forward to seeing future content. Thanks for the reply!
Great job making this video. It was straight forward and to the point and made it very easy to follow along with understanding what the typical mistakes look like.
I was always taught to heat the tubing a bit before moving to the fitting. This is a quicker process since you aren't heating the fitting first then the tubing through the fitting. It's also eliminates overheating of the fitting.
Hi Gary, Thanks for the comment. This is definitely a technique I use from time to time as well. I didn't show the technique in the video because as a DIY video some people might overheat the tubing, and the solder wouldn't flow properly. The technique you mention is definitely important when soldering thicker copper like type L and K. This is because type L and K copper are actually thicker than the fittings, and require more heat to bring the solder to a melting point. Thanks again for the great comment! Take care.
Is UA-cam spying on me? Yesterday was the first time I've ever done a copper fitting or solder I didn't even research it, as I was assisting someone. Now all of a sudden UA-cam recommend this video "which I enjoyed" & now fully understand all the fundamentals. Btw my fittings didn't leak 👍 Thanks for a great video my teachings was reinforced
All great tips to soldering copper pipe. One tip I hadn't seen before even while watching journeyman plumbers on the construction site is sanding the face of the fittings to allow quicker whetting of the solder. I didn't think of that! Makes sense.
Our weather got to -33. The pipe in the laundry room didn't make it. Gonna try to fix it myself because it if course is a Friday at 10pm. Thanks for video.
Your how to video was pretty good. The only recommendations I would say is. When your soldering horizontal start from the bottom and work your way up halfway, then moved to the other side, then back to the other. Basically break your fitting into 4 sections. This way you will get full penetration. If you start at the top you will create a void at the top back of the fitting. Solder tends to flow down hill into the cup of the fitting. The other is heat the pipe towards the fitting first to get it warm, then heat the back of the fitting to draw that solder back into the cup of the fitting. This is extremely critical from 1 inch pipe size up. You should still keep the same method with 1/2 and 3/4. When you get certified in soldering and brazing. The instructor will cut your fitting in half and smash it with a hammer to see if you got full penetration, Try that next time and see if there's a void or you got full penetration in the cup of the fitting.
This video helped me a lot. I have some aluminum finned 3/4 inch baseboards connected to 1/2 inch pex. I want to remove those 3/4 to 1/2 inch elbows and make the whole system 3/4 inch so I'm gonna have to get up the nerve to try to tackle this myself to save a few thousand bucks that a plumber quoted.
Hi Michael, Thanks for the comment! Just a few things to remember. Make sure to use heat protection when soldering next to the floor or wall. The second is taking extra care cutting and soldering the baseboard tubing. Most manufacturers use extremely thin copper for their baseboard fin. They do this to have a better heat transfer. This copper will take less heating to get the solder to a liquid state. I'm sure you'll do great. Best of luck on your project!
My fear has always been of overheating the pipe! Nice video though also I haven't done it but once on a fitting for the copper inside of my bathtub spout! It worked and has lasted so far it was about 6 years ago! Also nice scooter brother!
It's very easy to do since copper heats up very quickly and also cools down very quickly as well. The best technique to use is to tap the solder against the copper every few seconds to see if it's hot enough. Then remove the heat once it starts to flow. Nice job on your connection! Thanks man! I've finally been able to take it for a rip after 7-8 months of winter here up North. Thanks for the comment. All the Best!
@@PROSDIY Hey no problem glad you finally got to take her out I live in the Midwest! It's been pretty cold here to compared to the past few winter's! And thank you! I'm not real good at soldering wire either lol! But haven't had a whole lot of practice at that either! I'm almost 50 lol I still have old galvanized junk in my house but it was here when I bought the place I'm getting ready to plumb it in pex with the cinch clamps and tool!
@@PROSDIY Thank you I just wish I didn't have to use so many fittings! All the plumbing in my home is so close together in most places I should say almost all! I would have to make the bends so tight, that it would kink! So I'm kinda stuck, I guess?
Thanks Damiean, I've welded a few times and it ended up looking awful, probably wasn't very strong as well. I give a ton of respect to welders that can lay down a nice bead. It's definitely an art. All the Best!
I mean dynamite work. Clean clean joint. When I watch your video I just keep wanting to wipe the excess flux all over the pipes off. But I can't argue with those results. 👍
As an Air Conditioning installer here there's a little bit of difference between a plumber's and A/C. Both does have the same oxidation characteristics, which is bad. In the A/C world, most likely in the Plumber's world too, that we use dry nitrogen after soldering to get rid of majority of the oxidation. I live in Southwest Louisiana and I barely see copper getting used in new construction houses for plumbing, it's mainly with PEX pipe. We use an acetylene and oxygen torch for our soldering with 15% Dynaflo solder. When I first started soldering I was scared and nervous, I will say that I've made a few holes in copper tubing when started, but overtime after doing it everyday it got natural. I've also taught newcomers to evenly heat the copper, on the fitting, and let the heat of the copper melt the solder to bond better. The most nerve racking soldering I've ever had to do was when there was a kink right at the bricks of the house and I had to use a coupling to fix it, also the house was spray foam walls. The kink wasn't due to us, it was due to stinking concrete people pushing up on the line set and kinking it. I had to use a flame retardant gel to repair it. This was when I first starting doing A/C work. Also nice tutorial buddy.
Hi GamerScoreM4STA Productions, Thanks for the comment! Where I'm from we refer to that type of connection as brazing. Similar to soldering in some ways, but it uses much higher heat. The only times I've had to braze is connecting the soft copper main water supply to a residence. As you mentioned though almost all new construction has moved away from copper and switched to a PEX blend. I really only see brazing now from the AC and refrigeration trades. It's definitely an art as well. I find it more challenging than soldering because of the increased heat. Thanks for the story and all the best on your trades career!
@@gamerscorem4staproductions775 They are made by Superior Tool. They are hands down, in my opinion, the best self adjusting tubing cutters on the market for 1/2 and 3/4". I've used almost every brand and always come back to these. They are a great value, durable, and excellent for tight spaces. You won't be disappointed. For anything over 3/4" I use Lenox 21013-TC25/8 tubing cutters 3/4": amzn.to/2SklMPn 1/2": amzn.to/2EN3fIS Lenox 21013-TC25/8: amzn.to/2KIMU7u Thanks for the comment!
@@PROSDIY Pat, not only am I confident that your skills are beyond reproach you are also an awesome teacher. Seriously though, thanks. Everyone that saw the job I did complimented me. One of the guys is an engineer that worked at the school I used to work at. It really looked perfectly smooth like the solder grew there, not like how I would have done had I not watched your video. Not only did you not miss a single point, you also pointed out how to do it wrong a few different ways. Awesome! I am pretty sure had I watched another video I may have screwed it up. I have a few old school bikes and a couple of retro old school bikes. An old kaw, be it a KZ, Z1R, LTD or H2 would be something you would die to ride on every day. Trust me when I tell you this, it may change your life.
@@saxjonz Wow! It's great to read such a positive post. Nice work on your solder job! I'll definitely take a look at those bikes. Unfortunately I had to sell my bike because we recently moved. I will be looking for another in the Spring though. I've been doing some research into the adventure category, but still haven't decided. Thanks again for the feedback. Take care!
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 Bernzomatic Torch: geni.us/P24bF Mapp Gas: geni.us/EYcp Plumbing Solder Kit: geni.us/CHWmdZY 1/2" Superior Tube Cutter: geni.us/6fZc 3/4" Superior Tube Cutter: geni.us/bWA8hT 4-1 Fitting Brush: geni.us/ZDi3k7e Deburring Tool: geni.us/Cn3mb Flame Protector: geni.us/QG4M Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Thanks CrashFix! Great question! You can definitely damage a 1/4 turn ball valve from excessive heat. This is why it's important to keep the heat to the fitting sides of the valve and not the center, and to remove the heat once the solder flows. Too much heat can cause damage to the packing. This is what seals the stem of the handle through the body of the valve. This can be noticed if drips of water are leaking at the stem. Some techs will wrap the stem of the handle with a damp paper towel before soldering. Thanks for the great question! All the Best!
Excellent video. I seen another video where the gentleman said not to spray water on the joint(s) immediately after soldering, can't recall why though. Also, what's your take on those fittings with the solder already inside? I believed they are called Yorkshire fittings due to England using these alot. Thanks!
Hi Garry, You're absolutely right. You should let the joint naturally cool first before either spraying or wiping down. Cooling the joint too quickly can cause tiny fractures in the solder. The easiest way to tell if a joint has been cooled down too quick is that the solder will become rough. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with Yorkshire fittings (solder ring fittings). From what I've heard, they're best used in confined spaces where it's difficult to get the solder, but I've never had to use them. Thanks for the comment! All the Best!
On site in the uk either speed fit (John Guest) or still bend pipes less joints the better. No one uses the pre solderd fittings on any site ive been on. But have been in Canada 2 years so may have dropped to sub par standards like here.
Excellent, simple, clear and well presented demonstration. One of the best I've seen and worth passing on. Gold Star!
Clear concise no bullshit video. First class soldering technique. All we've got to do now is teach you how to pronounce the word "Solder" and a star will be born. :-))
Thanks for the positive feedback! With regards to solder, both are correct. UK and US versions: dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/solder
All the Best!
I haven't sweated copper in over 20 years, just looked for a refresher, nothings changed thank goodness. After one test piece, the real thing came out great. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback Peter! Great job on your project!
I am a dyslexic landscape contractor who needs to be reminded on proper copper soldering because I don’t do it that much. Thank you so much and I hope my next Joints look half as good as yours because of this video. God’s best
Thanks for the positive feedback. Take care!
Yeah, need to solder some of those Febco, Wilkins, vacuum breakers and back flow preventers...
Very nice video. Too many instagram plumbers want to see no solder on joints, but yours, along with looking very neat, give the confidence of a leak free joint. Nice video !!!
Stumbled onto this channel after my back yard hose sillcock froze & popped. I've now been watching for a little while! Great content, & very helpful.
Thanks Andrew! I appreciate the positive feedback. Hope your sillcock repair goes well. Cheers!
Thanks for your Tutorial on plumbing solder w/ flux ..iam HVAC installer Tech for over 25 yrs & silver solder w/ # 15 usually or 45 % in some cases without an Hitch but plumbing solder has always given me troubles w/ mainly & bc of water being drawn to my heat but now I Think I got it NOW bc water heater are now part of our services alone with / HVAC service repairs & installation ..Thanks again
Hi Pat. I just wanted to say a big thank you for posting this video! I used it to help learn how to solder in some new valves, a new laundry faucet, and replace some copper tubing in my basement. Everything you covered here was spot on. I really appreciate how succinct this video was. There are other how to videos on UA-cam that show you how to solder copper, but they can be a little long winded and the visual examples aren't always great. Yours hit all the marks. It includes all the important information but leaves out the rambling. I can't say every solder joint I did turned out as pretty as what you showed, but they are all water tight.
Thanks for the great feedback Jason! Nice job on your project! All the Best!
This is the best how to video for newcomers to the art of soldering I’ve ever seen. I greatly appreciate the time spent to discuss joint preparation. That makes all the difference in a proper weld.
Thank you for taking the time to help millions of people learn something that makes the job a professional one and helping homeowners learn the skills so they can stop using Sharkbite fittings.
Thank you for the kind words! Cheers!
I've got some repairs to do in my home with my copper piping.
You explain and demonstrate the technique in a way that is very
easy to understand. The best part of the video is showing common
mistakes that are made.
Thank you for taking the time to edit and post the video, I appreciate it.
Be safe!
Randy
Hi Randy, Thanks for the great feedback! Best of luck on tackling your project at home. Take care!
NHlocal Ç ç.
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You solder joints look a lot better than my coworkers solder joints. Good job.
Thanks Jo!
When I gave it a thumbs up I noticed 125 had given it a thumbs down. No clue why because this is an excellent video. Well done! For those who don't know, Oatey offer a 9x12 hands free heat shield (black cloth with two grommets) similar to what he used - about $15.
Great Video, If you every get tired of plumbing, you would make a really good teacher. Best video I've seen. Learned a lot....thanks
Thanks for the kind words Larry! Take care!
Keep this in your library. Everything presented in this video is Solder Life.
Well done.
Noob here. Watched a few videos like this one, made a few mistakes and learnt stuff. Quite rewarding when you get it right and you don't flood the house.
Test with air and only have to worry about flooding houses with hissing air
This is one of the best how to videos I've seen!
You are a PRO and it helps a million to have the right tools. Thank you for the video.
www .facebook.com/shentuautomation/posts/524708131425168 Amazing solderless and quick plug copper pipe
Although I've soldered many copper pipes and fittings, it's never too late to learn new tips or info, or refresh the process to be certain you're not forgetting or leaving something out. Thanks for the thorough and informative video. I did indeed learn something new, the part where you clean the edge of the fittings as well. What a great idea, I'm glad I thought of it. LOL JK Thanks again Pat.
Hah! Glad the video was helpful. All the Best!
BEAUTIFUL job sir!!!! The only other Pros I've seen do this is on This Old House I watch each weekend.
Thanks Allen! I appreciate the kind words. All the Best!
Filled with gratitude after watching this video! Thank you so much for covering the common mistakes because that’s exactly what I have done! Hope ur well!
Thanks for the kind words! All the best!
Excellent presentation. It's been years since I soldiered and I appreciated the reminder about what not to do.
Thanks Joe! Take care!
Watched about a dozen 'how to solder copper pipe' videos this afternoon, this is the only one I'm going to watch again just before actually doing it. Very well done.
There are some similarities to wire soldering, but I don't see much mention of danger from one piece being too cold. Is that not an issue in pipe soldering? In other words, heating the fitting and the solder wicking in by capillary action but the pipe not hot enough?
Also would love to see more videos from you on how to solder in tricky places, like adding a fitting to the bottom of a vertical pipe. How do you hold the fitting in place?
And how to know whether you don't have a good, strong joint right away (rather than 1 year from now when no one is home)
And I agree with posters who complimented your soldering -- the joint looks beautiful and smooth.
Thanks for the positive feedback and great ideas! I'm planning on making a follow up how-to solder video with the most asked questions. I'll be sure to include the technique of heating the tubing first. This is definitely a technique I use from time to time as well. I didn't show the technique in the video because as a DIY video some people might overheat the tubing, and the solder wouldn't flow properly. The technique you mention is definitely important when soldering thicker copper like type L and K. This is because type L and K copper are actually thicker than the fittings, and require more heat to bring the solder to a melting point. Soldering standard residential copper (type M) doesn't require heating the tubing first. For soldering fittings to the bottom of a vertical tube, I slightly squeeze the very end of the tube with a pair of adjustable pliers if it is in a tight spot. This will hold the fitting in place. If there's room I'll actually use a length of solder as a wire to hold up the section. Thanks for the great comment! All the Best!
This was an excellent example. I’ve been practicing based on what you showed. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the positive feedback! All the Best!
Excellent!
My first attempt was over 20 years ago, using propane on a new Hans Grohe shower valve that had more brass than I'd ever seen in my life. And we of course had vertical supply pipes with water, and I didn't know about the simple trick of sucking water out with a straw beforehand.
I did manage to avoid burning a hole in the drywall, but the first 3 attempts were not successful and the joints looked awful ... but eventually held pressure. We sold that condo, and the plumbing was covered in fresh tiling, so I have no idea if it worked long-term or not.
I don’t do any DIY but you made it look so easy, nice and clean above all. Great inspiring video
Thanks for the positive feedback!
awesome video. it's very helpful you are showing the end result and common mistakes, turning the pipe around. we need to know what it should look like at the end.
Kentucky Journeyman here... I've got to say, that is some of the most beautiful soldering I've personally ever seen. The only soldering I've seen better was an inspector that helped me get my license
Thanks for great compliment and taking the time to write this comment! All the Best!
That up-flow joint you did looks freaking beautiful, great job
Thanks paintball130!
Licensed plumber here, good job. I’d hire you.
Coming from a fellow licensed plumber this comment is much appreciated! Thanks for posting!
George Hardwick Is not licensed 👀
Mike Oneill , yessir I am. I qualify a company in SC. You sir, are wrong. But, to clear matters up in your own mind, SC M110135 PB 2 should put you in your place sir. Also, a PE tag. Jackass.
George Hardwick 厂
@@mikeoneill4926 Of course he is, and he has 30+ years experience and his family was in the trades for decades. Lol
TERRIFIC job all around: clear descriptions and speech, excellent video work, covered the bases beautifully and the soldered joints look perfect! Would love to see one about difficult connections and when using thicker pipe. When should the pipe be heated first, and how much? Though you show it, I'd also suggest mentioning that you're moving the torch around and not just constantly blasting away with it (like some of us beginner idiots do). You could point out that because you didn't heat it too much the flux stayed normal color and never turned black. The tip about the fitting not changing color was helpful. FANTASTIC work!
Wow! Thanks for the great comment and feedback RobertL39! All the Best!
One of the best if not the best plumbing tutorials on here👍liked and subscribed.
Well done video. Practical advice, easy to follow, and just enough info. I just watched it so I could replace a hose bib on an outdoor copper pipe. Was worried I'd muck it up, but it was easy, and despite my imperfect technique there are no leaks (tip: watch the key parts of the video twice, and JUST before you do the soldering). And the total cost, to get ALL the supplies from scratch, was $75-less than a plumber would've charged, and many of them probably don't want such small jobs anyway (my apologies to those who do).
Glad the video helped out. Thanks for the great feedback and nice job on your project! Take care!
Came out very clean, especially your brass shutoff looked great. I normally have to heat and then wipe excess flux off to get a joint that tight.
Thank you Donovan! Cheers!
I've seen several of these and this is the best. Thank you.
Thanks Tony! Cheers!
These are most clean joints I have seen Good job man
Thank you ESGAR MONTALVO!
Great straight forward demo - off to the hardware store.
Man, those are some smooth joints right there. Great skills.
Thank you nitefors
!
I'm a apprentice plumber, those were some quality looking solder joints. Looked at your other uploads, they look a little infrequent and spread out, I'm still subscribing though. Hope to see some more videos from you soon!
Hi David, Thanks for the sub! Having only a trades background this whole UA-cam, filming, editing thing has been a steep learning curve. Hopefully as time goes on I can produce higher quality content and more frequently. Thanks again and best of luck on your apprenticeship!
@@PROSDIY haha! I can understand that! I have made zero videos. A shovel is a lot easier to use than a camera. The viewing quality of your videos is very good(my opinion as a watched of videos). Look forward to seeing future content. Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video for us. Beautiful bike, too. No matter where it was made.
Thanks for the positive feedback! I like my bike as well :)
Thanks for the information. I'm definitely going to do a few practice runs before I do the actual repair. Great tutorial.
Great job making this video. It was straight forward and to the point and made it very easy to follow along with understanding what the typical mistakes look like.
Thanks for the great feedback Ken! Cheers!
I was always taught to heat the tubing a bit before moving to the fitting. This is a quicker process since you aren't heating the fitting first then the tubing through the fitting. It's also eliminates overheating of the fitting.
Hi Gary, Thanks for the comment. This is definitely a technique I use from time to time as well. I didn't show the technique in the video because as a DIY video some people might overheat the tubing, and the solder wouldn't flow properly. The technique you mention is definitely important when soldering thicker copper like type L and K. This is because type L and K copper are actually thicker than the fittings, and require more heat to bring the solder to a melting point. Thanks again for the great comment! Take care.
@@PROSDIY Ya that's a great point. I guess I forget most people watching are rookies. Good video Brother!
Is UA-cam spying on me? Yesterday was the first time I've ever done a copper fitting or solder I didn't even research it, as I was assisting someone. Now all of a sudden UA-cam recommend this video "which I enjoyed" & now fully understand all the fundamentals. Btw my fittings didn't leak 👍 Thanks for a great video my teachings was reinforced
Hah, they must be. Thanks for the feedback, and great job on your soldering project!
Maybe UA-cam saw your last bills from hardware store but you was faster...
Was there an Amazon Alexa near by, those things listen in and recommend you stuff online
All great tips to soldering copper pipe. One tip I hadn't seen before even while watching journeyman plumbers on the construction site is sanding the face of the fittings to allow quicker whetting of the solder. I didn't think of that! Makes sense.
Thanks for the positive feedback Gary! Take Care!
Our weather got to -33. The pipe in the laundry room didn't make it. Gonna try to fix it myself because it if course is a Friday at 10pm.
Thanks for video.
This polar vortex is wild. Best of luck on your repair. Stay warm!
Your how to video was pretty good. The only recommendations I would say is. When your soldering horizontal start from the bottom and work your way up halfway, then moved to the other side, then back to the other. Basically break your fitting into 4 sections. This way you will get full penetration. If you start at the top you will create a void at the top back of the fitting. Solder tends to flow down hill into the cup of the fitting.
The other is heat the pipe towards the fitting first to get it warm, then heat the back of the fitting to draw that solder back into the cup of the fitting. This is extremely critical from 1 inch pipe size up. You should still keep the same method with 1/2 and 3/4. When you get certified in soldering and brazing. The instructor will cut your fitting in half and smash it with a hammer to see if you got full penetration, Try that next time and see if there's a void or you got full penetration in the cup of the fitting.
thank you for your time making this video, sir. i will put it to good use!
Thank you so much, for this video. Single and do repairs myself, this saved me $$$
Thank you,
For taking the time to do this video.
Thanks for the feeback! Take care!
This video helped me a lot. I have some aluminum finned 3/4 inch baseboards connected to 1/2 inch pex. I want to remove those 3/4 to 1/2 inch elbows and make the whole system 3/4 inch so I'm gonna have to get up the nerve to try to tackle this myself to save a few thousand bucks that a plumber quoted.
Hi Michael, Thanks for the comment! Just a few things to remember. Make sure to use heat protection when soldering next to the floor or wall. The second is taking extra care cutting and soldering the baseboard tubing. Most manufacturers use extremely thin copper for their baseboard fin. They do this to have a better heat transfer. This copper will take less heating to get the solder to a liquid state. I'm sure you'll do great. Best of luck on your project!
@@PROSDIY Thanks for the valuable info!!
My fear has always been of overheating the pipe! Nice video though also I haven't done it but once on a fitting for the copper inside of my bathtub spout! It worked and has lasted so far it was about 6 years ago! Also nice scooter brother!
It's very easy to do since copper heats up very quickly and also cools down very quickly as well. The best technique to use is to tap the solder against the copper every few seconds to see if it's hot enough. Then remove the heat once it starts to flow. Nice job on your connection! Thanks man! I've finally been able to take it for a rip after 7-8 months of winter here up North. Thanks for the comment. All the Best!
@@PROSDIY Hey no problem glad you finally got to take her out I live in the Midwest! It's been pretty cold here to compared to the past few winter's! And thank you! I'm not real good at soldering wire either lol! But haven't had a whole lot of practice at that either! I'm almost 50 lol I still have old galvanized junk in my house but it was here when I bought the place I'm getting ready to plumb it in pex with the cinch clamps and tool!
@@PROSDIY Thank you I just wish I didn't have to use so many fittings! All the plumbing in my home is so close together in most places I should say almost all! I would have to make the bends so tight, that it would kink! So I'm kinda stuck, I guess?
Great video good and precise info step by step the hardest is to saulder heavy wall against thin wall and not overheat
Practice makes perfect
Thanks for the great comment! So true, that can definitely be more challenging. Cheers!
Awesome video! Clear, concise. Will save for future use!
Very nice man, I've been a welder for a while now but haven't done soldering b4
Thanks Damiean, I've welded a few times and it ended up looking awful, probably wasn't very strong as well. I give a ton of respect to welders that can lay down a nice bead. It's definitely an art. All the Best!
Those are some pretty nice looking joints.
Thanks, I appreciate it! Cheers!
Starting my first solder. Thx!
Thanks for watching! Good Luck!
Great stuff mate. Found it easy to follow for my first DIY project.
Hi bellblau, Thanks for the feedback. Take care!
Really great content - clear, informative, and to the point! Thanks Pat!
Thanks Dan! 👍
Very good. From England.
Beautiful job on the solder!
Great video thanks! I just copper solder my water main supply to my house. Because the original builders used PVC and broke.
Great useful video mate, particularly the mistakes that can be made. Thanks for making. I have confidence to try now, cheers!
Glad the video was useful. Thanks for the positive feedback! All the best!
I'm soldering like a champ now!
Thank you for God has sent you to tell me how to solder on this day
Very clean soldering! Great video! ☺
Thanks Dave!
Excellent Tutorial ! Thank you 🙏🏼
Well explained and very well done. Much appreciated!
Good video, thank you for making! About to dive into a water heater connection project, this was super helpful. Keep it up!
Thanks for the positive feedback! Good luck on your project!
Appreciate it! And yep, went very well, thanks again
nice clean solder job, BUT for the ball valve, i would do the bottom first since the heat travels up
This is a professional! 👍🏼
I mean dynamite work. Clean clean joint. When I watch your video I just keep wanting to wipe the excess flux all over the pipes off. But I can't argue with those results. 👍
Loved your upload.Thanks for sharing it with us
Thanks for the positive feedback! Take care!
PROS DIY anytime bro with the positive feed back.You deserve it.Take care always
As an Air Conditioning installer here there's a little bit of difference between a plumber's and A/C. Both does have the same oxidation characteristics, which is bad. In the A/C world, most likely in the Plumber's world too, that we use dry nitrogen after soldering to get rid of majority of the oxidation. I live in Southwest Louisiana and I barely see copper getting used in new construction houses for plumbing, it's mainly with PEX pipe. We use an acetylene and oxygen torch for our soldering with 15% Dynaflo solder. When I first started soldering I was scared and nervous, I will say that I've made a few holes in copper tubing when started, but overtime after doing it everyday it got natural. I've also taught newcomers to evenly heat the copper, on the fitting, and let the heat of the copper melt the solder to bond better. The most nerve racking soldering I've ever had to do was when there was a kink right at the bricks of the house and I had to use a coupling to fix it, also the house was spray foam walls. The kink wasn't due to us, it was due to stinking concrete people pushing up on the line set and kinking it. I had to use a flame retardant gel to repair it. This was when I first starting doing A/C work.
Also nice tutorial buddy.
Hi GamerScoreM4STA Productions, Thanks for the comment! Where I'm from we refer to that type of connection as brazing. Similar to soldering in some ways, but it uses much higher heat. The only times I've had to braze is connecting the soft copper main water supply to a residence. As you mentioned though almost all new construction has moved away from copper and switched to a PEX blend. I really only see brazing now from the AC and refrigeration trades. It's definitely an art as well. I find it more challenging than soldering because of the increased heat. Thanks for the story and all the best on your trades career!
@@PROSDIY I'm also wondering what type of tubing cutters you're using?
@@gamerscorem4staproductions775 They are made by Superior Tool. They are hands down, in my opinion, the best self adjusting tubing cutters on the market for 1/2 and 3/4". I've used almost every brand and always come back to these. They are a great value, durable, and excellent for tight spaces. You won't be disappointed. For anything over 3/4" I use Lenox 21013-TC25/8 tubing cutters
3/4": amzn.to/2SklMPn
1/2": amzn.to/2EN3fIS
Lenox 21013-TC25/8: amzn.to/2KIMU7u
Thanks for the comment!
@@PROSDIY The type of tubing cutters we use is ones that'll go from 3/8" - 1 1/8"
@@gamerscorem4staproductions775 Just curious, what brands do you guys prefer? I see a lot of the AC guys using Ridgid.
Thanks for sharing. Could you please tell when I should wipe the joint after soldering. How many seconds?
Great video, you make it look easy,...I'll find out tomorrow when I try my hand at it
Thanks! Good luck on your project!
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
You're welcome. Thank you Laurie!
AMAZING SOLDERING...
Great video. Nice clean work.
Awesome job done this is the best way to teach.. thank you
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Thanks!! This is very helpful I am glad that I watched this.
Thanks Lawrence!
@@PROSDIY Pat, not only am I confident that your skills are beyond reproach you are also an awesome teacher. Seriously though, thanks. Everyone that saw the job I did complimented me. One of the guys is an engineer that worked at the school I used to work at. It really looked perfectly smooth like the solder grew there, not like how I would have done had I not watched your video. Not only did you not miss a single point, you also pointed out how to do it wrong a few different ways. Awesome! I am pretty sure had I watched another video I may have screwed it up. I have a few old school bikes and a couple of retro old school bikes. An old kaw, be it a KZ, Z1R, LTD or H2 would be something you would die to ride on every day. Trust me when I tell you this, it may change your life.
@@saxjonz Wow! It's great to read such a positive post. Nice work on your solder job! I'll definitely take a look at those bikes. Unfortunately I had to sell my bike because we recently moved. I will be looking for another in the Spring though. I've been doing some research into the adventure category, but still haven't decided. Thanks again for the feedback. Take care!
Sweet joints my friend! No droplets!🙌
Thanks Aaron!
Great info... I always wanted to see and learn. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback! All the Best!
Very clear and precise 👍
Very very helpful, thanks so much.
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Thanks, great information at a good flow.
Nice and clear video
Thanks for the positive feedback! All the best!
This was a great video
Good Tips, Dr Rob
Thanks Dr Rob!
Very helpful video thanks
Thanks for the feedback! All the Best!
nice fillet on the last joint, thats how I always want to see in all my joints
cheers
dave
Very helpful. Thanks.
Great info. Good camera work also.
Thanks Kevin!
Very good video mate 👍👍👍
Thanks Buddy!
Good Man. Thanks. Can you teach us how to sold aluminium and stanley steel?
Excellent video
Great video!
One thing I’ve often wondered is, can you damage a 1/4 turn ball valve from excessive heat while soldering it in?
Thanks CrashFix! Great question! You can definitely damage a 1/4 turn ball valve from excessive heat. This is why it's important to keep the heat to the fitting sides of the valve and not the center, and to remove the heat once the solder flows. Too much heat can cause damage to the packing. This is what seals the stem of the handle through the body of the valve. This can be noticed if drips of water are leaking at the stem. Some techs will wrap the stem of the handle with a damp paper towel before soldering. Thanks for the great question! All the Best!
Open the valve before soldering is a good practice.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
thank you for this....well done...and it helped a lot.
Excellent video. I seen another video where the gentleman said not to spray water on the joint(s) immediately after soldering, can't recall why though. Also, what's your take on those fittings with the solder already inside? I believed they are called Yorkshire fittings due to England using these alot. Thanks!
Hi Garry, You're absolutely right. You should let the joint naturally cool first before either spraying or wiping down. Cooling the joint too quickly can cause tiny fractures in the solder. The easiest way to tell if a joint has been cooled down too quick is that the solder will become rough. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with Yorkshire fittings (solder ring fittings). From what I've heard, they're best used in confined spaces where it's difficult to get the solder, but I've never had to use them. Thanks for the comment! All the Best!
On site in the uk either speed fit (John Guest) or still bend pipes less joints the better.
No one uses the pre solderd fittings on any site ive been on.
But have been in Canada 2 years so may have dropped to sub par standards like here.