Weathering olive drab - part 2: oils in layers
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2009
- The second in the series detailing my techniques when weathering olive drab vehicles. In this video I use a series of layers of oil paints, divided with acrylic varnish, to build up the effect of rain marks and dust, and blend it all together with a quick airbrush dust coat at the end.
I have tried to fit as much in to a 5 min video as possible, so hopefully you can see how the varnish and oil layers work together using the photographs that I take at each stage, but it's not so long you die of boredom!
thanks for watching, please rate if you enjoyed ! - Навчання та стиль
Oh!! I'm really so very sorry that all you have to do is click on my channel to find the other parts of the video. These videos are 100% free and they've helped plenty of real modellers in their time. Perhaps if you don't like the way they're edited/uploaded then go pay for a DVD instead of watching, learning and then complaining. Better still, why not try making some yourself and contribute instead of going round moaning like you do?
A-M-A-Z-I-N-G. and i thought the last tut was good. this is absolutely fantastic!
Great tutorial informative and great tips . Very nice finish . Looking forward to the next ones from you . Thank you
Thank you, that helps a lot. Love your videos.
It depends on what conditions you're weathering. If the black vehicle was in normandy then the dust would still be buff coloured, so I would still use it. Using the layers method you build up a colour so if you use less layers it will be more subtle and might work over a black base coat. If your vehicle was set somewhere else you might want to use relevant colours for the area.
@UnityCZ the gloss varnish REALLY REALLY does help.
Try this - find a piece of old model or unused part etc and paint it with a base colour, then give just one half a coat of gloss varnish.
Add a wash to each half and see what happens... the gloss side will flow around the details leaving very little cleanup. Plus, because there is a varnish layer, there is very little chance of damaging your paint.
It's not like your life depends on it, but trust me it really helps mate.
@Arcusinoz thanks - I tend to use just water for thinning when painting with Vallejo modelcolour, but the Vallejo AIR series needs no thinning and I use them exclusively now. I also mix my acrylics with satin varnish when spraying as this thins it slightly but makes it so beautifully smooth as well.
Thanks for the tips, I'll try them out ASAP.
this is very good!
sure thing. The paints are artists oil paints, I use Windsor & Newton oils. Colours are Burnt sienna, buff and lamp black. Any brown colour is good, get some white and black and mix some different shades. As for the thinners, I believe white spirit is called mineral spirits in the USA.
Hi mate - preshading and washing is not basic, so you DO know something ! keep at it !
The oils I use are just basic artists oil paints, and the thinners for them is the cheap stuff from the DIY store. I don't use anything fancy right now, just the cheapest, readily available materials.
You don't need to buy specialist stuff to get results, experiment with what you can get your hands on. If you can't get oil paints you could try the same with humbrol enamels or similar!
Thanks you are awesome. Really love the videos. I just ordered the same model that you are working on here from Dragon, can't wait till it gets here.
I use windsor & newton oils. I know what you mean about pushing the oil around so you can see brush strokes. I have since switched to using a satin varnish rather than gloss, as this solves that problem - however as you can see I still blended the colours in even back then when I made the video - the key is to keep wiping the brush free of paint so you're gradually removing it.
One thing to try is wait for it to dry and then go at it again with a VERY SLIGHTLY moistened brush.
One of my other videos details basic washes. The ingredients are simply oil paint and thinner, either white spirit, turpenoid or Mig's thinner for washes.
Cheers
Jon
yeah it's BUFF. It's basically like a sandy beige colour. A very light creamy brown. Tamiya make this colour too by the same name.
The problem with what you've described is the isopropyl alcohol. It is not the white spirits I am using in this video, the white spirits I am using is sometimes called mineral spirits, it is similar to turpentine. The alcohol is interracting with your varnish because it is acrylic.
@Thefirstbranson Hi, yes I sure do clip those tracks with the airbrush, good spot on a non-HD video! The truth is though it really didn't matter about that because the tracks weren't painted at the time, they were just black. the next video "More basic weathering..." added the weathering to the tracks and wheels, and this went over the top of that overspray so it didn't really matter. If I had done it to painted tracks I would have had to go and paint it by hand with a brush !!!
great eye for realism you have mate , thanks for tips they are really help full but I feel a whole lot of those effects are down to your eye and can be easily over done .The really interesting part for me was when you did the whole side with straight streaks/drips and then you "knew" it needed that buff dust effect to rise up from the tracks!! it's so simple yet I hadn't realised that!! I always did all of those things together like a one off art piece lol .My forte is drawing rather than model painting and there's endless simple techniques in drawing that end up looking complicated , your dust layer over a streaked layer is the same sort of thing, saves you a lot of work but ends up looking just as good . thanks for making me realise I can apply the same logic to model painting as I do in creating drawings , cheers!
Hazed 100 thanks I'm really glad that you found the video helpful. working in layers changed my modelling a lot. I used to draw too so tried to do too much in one layer much like you say, trying to paint it like it's art. I found more recently that working with acrylics means by default I am working in layers. I have a new video coming up soon which shows a lot of this. the only thing that matters is you watched and took something away , that's why I do what I do so good luck with your modelling!
According to swannysmodels site Johnson's Klear (Future) in the UK goes by the name Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (not to be confused with Pledge multi surface floor finish. Its in a white bottle.
Realy nice video.
it helped me a lot so far.
Are there comming more of these???
Grtz. Eli
Awesome video. Please keep them coming, they're incredibly helpful! Can you show the product you use at the end so folks like me can check and get them if needed. Thanks.
@djbanizza Yes it should do essentially the same thing! Try it on a test piece first!
oh and pastels you can buy from most art stores. I got mine in the UK from Hobbycraft. They mark up their prices though. You might be best just buying some pigments from an online model shop. They are ready powdered and have stronger colours.
@andresisthename
those colours would be fine, a nice dark brown is suitable for a wash around things like raised details and panel line recesses.
the Part 1: Simple wash video uses similar colours.
Well said! It's free! More parts mean more info, it's not like its 30 video parts on 1 technique!
what kind of thinner are you using for washing? nice tutorial.
Great job, do you only use water to thin your acrylics, I use windex window cleaner or the product from Tamya. Do you use a fume hood when you are using your air brush? GREAT PAINT JOB, GREAT TUTORIAL.
what kind of thinner are you using for washing? nice tiutorial.
@ScaleModelMedic THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Great tutorial! Helped me a lot so far!
Questions: what kind of oil colors and thinner (white spirit?) do you use? I tried it with "normal" oil colors (Schmincke Norma and white spirit on a gloss coat) but I usually get rather grainy results and it is almost impossible to blend the colors in nicely. Even with a soft brush, I either wipe almost the whole oil paint off or brush strokes are clearly visible.
@edguevarra9703 it's white spirirt. in your country it may be mineral spirits. turpentine would work also.
Do you think buff would look good on a black bass coat? Would it be too light?
Great video, I'd really like to try this technique. But could anyone tell me if it's possible/safe to lay down Vallejo satin/matte varnish over an oil layer without waiting ~48 hours for the oil paints to dry? I'm new to using oils, and I know their dry times are quite long. Also, would enamel paints work for this type of job (streaking, layers) just as well?
ok, I'll try that. What kind of brush do you recommend? As soft as possible?
I'd like to use this technique on aircraft as well but I don't know how to prevent the oil from getting trapped in the panel lines. Do you have any suggestions?
What colour oil paints do you use and what other things do use ?
Could you please list the paints you use and the type of thinner, I know you say white spirit is there something similar in the USA? Thanks love your videos!
Hi. I'm relatively new to model building so I don't know anything. I know the basics and to wash with Future like you stated but with the paints you described, are those actual artist painters paint (badly worded, my bad) same with the thinner. I've preshaded mymodel and it loks pretty good but it needs more weathering. Any tips with pastels and where to get them would be helpful too. thanks, great vid.
How about Raw Umber and Ivory Black mixture with turnps for a wash?
WHAT IS THE TECHNIQUE FOR DRY BRUSHING AND HOW YOU CAN DO IT. WHAT KING OF PAINT AND THINNER ARE YOU USING FOR DRY BRUSHING. THANK YOU AGAIN.
you could apply the technique to an airplane, brushing the oils in the direction of airflow rather than downwards.
What is white spirit?? Is that a thinner?
@ScaleModelMedic Ok, I guess I'll try. But is there a way to do it without an airbrush? I don't have it and I'm not planning to buy it, so i have to do it with just a paintbrush.
I have one question - can I use clear acrylic paint (matt/gloss) to seal the different layers of oil effects?
I am a beginner so i must ask you, is it necessary to use gloss varnish when you do a simple wash? I mean, I don't have an airbrush, so it's kinda hard for me this way.
Hi there, I don't get just one thing, I have here X-22 tamiya for my Gloss layer, but you use 2 varnishes? I don't get it
@slapspak I got mine from the supermarket, ASDA I think, but it was years ago. I heard a rumour it was being discontinued so you might struggle to get this!
hello. how do i create battle dammage on a 1:72 lancaster bomber?
keep up the good work.
Can I use the oil paints thinned to cover the model and if yes how can i remove it?
Cam you make a video for desert tanks ? Plz
What is the whitish oil paint you used? I can't make out the name.
Do you have to use a gloss coat before you can start the weathering process just new to this and if I do use gloss can I use varnish thanks from a lonely modeller
For me, it depends. A gloss coat tends to disperse washes (perhaps too much at times). You'll have to experiment, but generally I add either a gloss coat, or semi gloss coat (matt coat) after the color base coat & color modulation.
after each layer do you spray gloss cote with the airbrush or not? I didn't hear it if you mention that sorry.
Yes he did.
at least show some appreciation for the effort that he put in to make the video. it isn't easy to do something like this.
@devildogin2012 everything just takes practus yyou can be more than half as good as he is try buying a decal tray from HLJ.com thats a great wya to help kick start your decal setting next think of it like this water colors when they dry look kinda like dried dust rite go out side and look at dusty cars and trucks and see when the dust collects then that will help
help oneanother out?....what do you think hes doing by making free demonstration vids?
Why the dire music? Isn't what you're saying interesting enough to be heard on its own?
5 dislikes. Why?
Beats me. It's like a workplace. A hundred people agree to do things one way, but theres always that one person who wont, because they are special.
phhh i can do thats in 2 mins all i do is take it put it in mud and then clean it kinda no im just kidding