OOOOKAY,,, now I'm cooking with gas... this is exactly my question and exactly the wood that my bakery counter is made of! wow! mine is all natural layered- you will get a splinter unless you sand it- wood. Cant wait to watch this because I just saw somewhere the wood will expand over time and we are going to jewel this thing out completely, the parts facing the customers and just stain the rest of it to a lovely medium brown shade, so we don't want this to slowly become a fallen apart disaster. this is great thanks for the toot!
You're so welcome Park! I wouldn't recommend using wood for outdoor surfaces or surfaces that are going to get heavily wet but otherwise it's a good strong base for indoor mosaics. Good luck with your project.
I use birch cradle boards, the surfaces of which are hardwood, and I've sealed with glue but have never done the sanding/scoring part. I think I will from now on! Thank you, Helen.
Hi Helen - so glad you are making these videos, I enjoy your blog very much! Can you please help me with a question on how to mosaic on wood that is finished and glossed already. For example, a wooden tray that has a semi-gloss finish. Would I need to sand it and add the PVA glue mixture to it before tiling?
Because sanding will roughen up more or less all of the surface whereas the knife will miss bits. So in theory you can skip the scoring part of the process if you've done a good job sanding but I think it's always better to have a belt and braces approach!
I am creating my mixed media music atop an antique oak makeup vanity. I'm planning on mosaicing rite on top of the oak wood surface post-sealant. Would you recommend this route?
I seal the front because the front it going to be grouted and the grout contains water. If you are planning to put the mosaic outside then it is a good idea to use boat paint (at least two coats) on the sides and back to protect the wood against water ingress.
You always explain things so clearly. Thanks so much, Helen!
Seems a very nice lady and explains very well, just like a school teacher from my past. 👍
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
Thanks so much for the clear and concise directions.
So nice to see the entire process. ❤
Glad it's helpful! 😀
OOOOKAY,,, now I'm cooking with gas... this is exactly my question and exactly the wood that my bakery counter is made of! wow! mine is all natural layered- you will get a splinter unless you sand it- wood. Cant wait to watch this because I just saw somewhere the wood will expand over time and we are going to jewel this thing out completely, the parts facing the customers and just stain the rest of it to a lovely medium brown shade, so we don't want this to slowly become a fallen apart disaster. this is great thanks for the toot!
You're so welcome Park! I wouldn't recommend using wood for outdoor surfaces or surfaces that are going to get heavily wet but otherwise it's a good strong base for indoor mosaics. Good luck with your project.
Splendid! Just what I was looking for! Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful Daniela!
I use birch cradle boards, the surfaces of which are hardwood, and I've sealed with glue but have never done the sanding/scoring part. I think I will from now on! Thank you, Helen.
You're very welcome Tracy! 😀
Thank you so much. You always teach me new things about mosaic, and it helps me a lot
Happy to hear that!
Thank you again thousands of times
so glad I came across your tutorial
Thank you, Helen for the tip
You’re welcome 😊
This video is a Godsent for me 🙏🙏🙏
I'm so glad! :)
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Helen - so glad you are making these videos, I enjoy your blog very much! Can you please help me with a question on how to mosaic on wood that is finished and glossed already. For example, a wooden tray that has a semi-gloss finish. Would I need to sand it and add the PVA glue mixture to it before tiling?
I am so sorry but I have only just seen this message. The answer is, yes, would would need to sand it down first and seal it.
Hi Helen! Thanks for sharing this tip. If you’re using the tile adhesive/thinset with wood, do you still prep in this manner?
Yes, wood should always be prepped because it's an absorbent material.
My question is…why sand the wood when you need to rough it up with a knife? Great video!
Because sanding will roughen up more or less all of the surface whereas the knife will miss bits. So in theory you can skip the scoring part of the process if you've done a good job sanding but I think it's always better to have a belt and braces approach!
Would mod podge be an acceptable material to use as a substitute for pva?
I have never used Mod Podge but I have just looked it up and it seems to be that it would work fine as a substitute for PVA
I am creating my mixed media music atop an antique oak makeup vanity. I'm planning on mosaicing rite on top of the oak wood surface post-sealant. Would you recommend this route?
Yes, that should be fine. I would also sand the wood and remove any varnish.
what is the purpose of applying the glue and letting it dry? is that just to seal the wood?
Yes, it's just to seal the wood
Is there any benefit to adding mesh to the surface of the wood? If so, how would you glue it down?
No, there wouldn't be any benefit that I am aware of.
@@HelenMilesMosaics ok. Thank you for answering!
What do you do if wood us already painted?
Sand it down and then seal as normal
Is mdf also needed to prepare first?
Absolutely! It's even more important with softer substrates like MDF
Hi! Why would you only seal the front and not the back and sides as well?
I seal the front because the front it going to be grouted and the grout contains water. If you are planning to put the mosaic outside then it is a good idea to use boat paint (at least two coats) on the sides and back to protect the wood against water ingress.