Re-profiling a Cross Cut Handsaw into a Rip Cut
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- In this comprehensive video i will running you through everything you need to know to convert a cross-cut handsaw into a rip-cut handsaw. In fact the information i provide here will also allow you not only convert a cross-cut tooth pattern into a rip but also sharpen your saws to ensure great joinery straight off the saw!
Hope you enjoy!!
Thanks for your support!
Suitable saw files:
12-14 TPI
Bahco Extra Slim Taper Sawfile 5in - 4-187-05-2-0
Bahco ERGO File Taper Slim Cut 5"/125mm - 4-187-05-2-2
6-10 TPI
Bahco ERGO File Taper Slim Cut 6" 150mm - 4-186-06-2-2
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All the tools and equipment listed i have personally used or have recommended a similar product. I also recommend new products similar to vintage tools i use as i cannot give a link to vintage tools. I may gain a small commission when you use my links (It costs you nothing), however, the links are still here to help everyone out with tools that will get the job done.
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This is one of the best sharpening demonstrations that I have seen. I watched many before I decided to sharpen my own saw, so many of them contradicted each other. You did a fine job of laying out the information. I like to paint the saw teeth with a machinist layout fluid instead of using a Sharpie. The layout fluid doesn't wipe away like the Sharpie does and the Sharpie is cut up by the teeth. The layout fluid can be wiped off using acetone or mineral spirits.
Thanks for the feedback much appreciated. Thanks for the idea of machinist layout fluid, that is a great idea. Now all i have to do is buy some
@@AussieWoodshed Dykem is the brand I use. I can get it from Amazon here in the states.
@@bigdteakettle8989 thanks
A video on removing that coating on the blade would go far, I think. I read a lot of comments on newer saws stating people are having issues doing that. Love your channel, btw.
@@HandToolWoodGuy Sure, i can do that
I've mainly used Japanese pull saws in part because I dind't want to have to worry about sharpening, but this makes it look much more simple than I envisioned.
@@505Daniel It can seem a little daunting of a task but once you get into it it's definitely not as difficult as it looks. When i first started sharpening hand saws after the first 2-3 saws i realised it's not that difficult.
I personally love to sharpen. The entire process is enjoyable to me. I do wear headphones and listen to music quite loudly, however. You cant hear it in how-to videos, but the sound of files going across the saw plate can be quite annoying.
@505Daniel I started with japanese but slowly moving yo western, both are fun so I have both still and I actually enjoy sharpening them🤓
Thanks for another good video.
When it comes to adjusting saw set, it is not necessary to use digital callipers as I see so many times on UA-cam. That's just not practical and was never done back in the day. Common sense will tell you - if it works well and feels right, then it's right.
When sharpening, the file should be held horizontally, regardless of it being a rip or cross cut.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Thanks Pete
thanx for the videos
My pleasure, thanks for watching
thanks for the file recommendation.
working out what files to use has been a hurdle getting started saw sharpening/ reprofiling for rip cutting
@@dominicstefan3139 i found it difficult to find decent saw files when i first looked too
Hmm I'm pretty sure I left a comment but looks like I might have put a link in that youtube didnt like, Lee Valley in the US has a set of 6 bacho saw files of different sizes in a roll and a number of smaller and bigger files for individual sizes (search for Set of 6 Bahco Saw-Sharpening Files & Roll) shipping to Australia wasnt too bad from memory (bought them 6 or 7 years ago and they are still good)
@@nurgle11 Excellent thanks for this information. Much appreciated
@@nurgle11 Thanks for that.
Yeah same - I commented with a link on another video to some f-clamps at Super Cheap Auto which I found were great for the price but the post disappeared.
Do you worry that by doing all the teeth from the same side any burrs will all be on the same side. That is a very small burr is created on the far side of the tooth as the file exits the gullet. If you alternate - even where there is no fleam, any burring will alternate along the blade. I know it is extra work, but I think it is worth it. Or is that over cautious?
@@robnichols9331 I've never had a problem with burrs, they likely fall off the first time the saw is used anyways.
I have seen other UA-camrs say to stone the saw to remove burrs, but they don't understand all you are doing is removing material from the widest part of the tooth due to the set and effectively reducing the set, i would only ever do this as a last resort.
As burrs have never given me an issue i don't see any point in the extra work to alternate them
@@AussieWoodshed Thank you - that's useful.
Thanks. Useful as usual. Unrelated to topic of the video, have you ever repaired cracked wooden planes? And if, with success?
I have one (my grandpas old), 460mm/18inch in length, homemade (no markings found and the tote/handle is slightly offset, which usually tells that it is homemade), very very old, blade is really thick but so easy to sharpen. So anyway, forced it to open more with a small oak wedge, poured slowly glue from every which way to the cracks, took the wedge out and clamped it. In a hour or so I'm go check it, it has been over night. If it holds, good. Then to work on the sole. Hoping to get this one working.
The most I've had to repair on wooden hand planes is gluing the cheaks back on that had almost come off completely and it was a success with glue and clamping. I hope the same will work in your situation.
I hope you can get your grandpa's handplane in working order again vintage tools are great and i love using them.
@@AussieWoodshed Seems to work. Glue holds (so far), sole is FLAT, blade sharpened. Takes amazing shavings.
@@kimmosaarinen2780 sounds like great successful results
I usually go over the teeth with a sharpie first that way I can see the shiny new file mark.
@@garrymcgaw4745 This is definitely a good idea to track progress
Thanks!🤠
Thanks I really do appreciated your super thanks
Great video! I had a question on your saw, though. Which is the one you have right now? I saw theres 2 saws similar on amazon, both are 12 in but the brown is 13ppi and other light wood is 15ppi. I want it as my main crosscut but not sure how the handle compared to eachother.
@@EggyOrphan The one i was reprofiling in this video was the 5410Y 10" 13ppi. I doubt there is much difference between them.
The one in this video i will reshape the handle but haven't got around to it yet.
@AussieWoodshed Ah I see. The one I was looking at is apparently the 5412K, just confused me since it says 12 in but 10 in on description lol.
But thank you as always and love your content, never miss a video!