I used to work at Volvo's development facility here in France and I was operating a chassis dyno. We used to break in (engines a little bit) but also gearboxes and rear axles at different loads. Our dyno had 2 big DC motor directly coupled to 9000kg rollers. That way the dyno can simulate road resistance given the right data or be in Iso speed mode. You set a roller speed that matches your rpm and gear, and you can do whatever you want with load. Very handy!
@@therightnuke I should have precised, it was Volvo Trucks facility. To some its not quite as exciting, but having 750hp trucks full noise trying to tear appart every component is quite satisfying :D The same on the engine dyno, Penta has a twincharger 725hp engine (big Holset helped by a twinscrew blower and electromagnetic ogura clutch). The max torque steady rpm point made the floor shaking. Good memories :D.
The dyno dynamics all wheel drive dyno at my job also has loud input. You can lock it at a certain speed and actually up the loud to simulate different driving conditions. We often break in new engines that
Use am adapter and a hand vacuum pump to pull a little vacuum on the power steering reservoir while doing your bleed procedure. Learned this working at the Ford dealership. Helps pull the aerated fluid up and out.
20:09 I really appreciate how Speed Academy is willing to listen to suggestions, feedback, and ideas from the comments section. There's been a trend for a while now among automotive UA-camrs to endlessly complain about the comments section, even though in reality the kind of comments they complain about are an incredibly small minority, or often don't even exist.
I had an issue with my power steering making noise and that was just the reservoir not being mounted correctly, it was hard mounted and the vibrations caused it to suck up air, so had to mount it on some rubber bushings, then do the turning full lock to lock 5-10 times before it got quiet .
Don’t go mad with the front wheel spacers, going much over 10mm will give the steering a strange feel as it effects the offset from the ball joint and the Ackerman angle. Get some wider wheels.
If you want it to handle well lift the nose a little. CP9A’s don’t like having front lower control arms inverted will also balance it better. Also bin the spacers. Love the car. Floods my memory of my VI.
Tip: When installing ARP studs that way (I have done it aswell) - The threads get super hot and sharp. Use a lubricant on the threads as engine oil or WD40 instead, and it works muuuuch better. Doesnt get as hot, and it pulls the stud in a lot easier.
@@alfredotovar8984 The lube is used to get the correct torque on threads/nuts/washers when torqueing headstuds for example. These longer wheel studs are in fact meant to be pressed in. I believe even the instructions state clearly to not mount them this way (but 9/10 people do including myself) they are supposed to be pressed in when the hub is off the car - So a little lubricant on the threads makes it go much smoother. I didnt use WD40 on the 2 first studs on my car, and they almost got destroyed. Then used wd40 on all the rest of them, and they had no visible marks on the threads from installation, even the "wrong" way.
@@Doggepp you can also buy, small bearings wich helps it not binding on the hub, but if not using those some oil or grease on the washers will also help.
To bleed the Evo pump, make sure all jubilee clips are tight, jack the front of the car up a little, start the engine and give it full left lock (hold for 3 seconds) then full right lock (hold for 3 seconds). Do that a few times and it should bleed the air out. I had the same issue on my 6.
With the car running and the power steering reservoir cap off, turn the wheel lock to lock repeatedly (fairly quickly but not too fast) until the noise gets quieter, making sure to top it off if need be. Once it seems like you hit diminishing returns with how quiet the noise gets, put the cap back on and just drive it for a while. It will bleed itself over time, make sure to check the level now and then but the amount of air is *probably* so small you won't need to top it off.
Hey the Evo 6 has a known issue with the fuel gauge misreading because the tank is split in the middle for the prop shaft. great to see the Evo up and running!
The problem with the power steering could be a bad o-ring on the low pressure/"suction" side of the pump that is allowing air into the system. I had a similar problem on a mid 2000's Honda that I was fixing for a relative of mine a year ago.
As many cars as you guys build, you might want to look into a wheel stud puller, it’s a tapered bit for the lug, but it rides on a bearing that helps everything go through easier.
For the power steering issue, make sure the reservoir is full, wheels up in the air, with engine off turn the wheel lock to lock a couple times slowly and check for any bubbles in fluid. When no bubbles present, turn engine on and at idle slowly turn from one lock direction to the other, hold wheel at that full lock point and turn the engine off, let it rest and the bubbles dissipate. Then continue the same to the other side. If noise isn't gone after that, it's probably something with the pump. Good luck with the project. I'm attempting to convert my 95 mirage sedan to and Evo 3.
How about you guys replace that under hood insulator? Its looking kind of ragged. I recently replaced mine and made a world of difference visually. I know its not a performance part, but that engine-bay is sweet and it would compliment everything under the hood. Nice work!
U might need to adjust the rate of change on the fuel guage to slow the movement. Not sure with the AIM but the Race Technology dash, you average the samples across a lot longer period otherwise the fuel guage goes all over the place.
If you remove the pump, you could check if there is any play on the bearing or if you hear a metal pinging noise if you spin the pulley. I did that on my car and it worked.
My Impreza pump did that after a drain and refil too, I turned lock to lock as fast as I could 3 or 4 times with the front jacked. Didn't work so I did it while driving in a quiet street. Fixed.
Glad to see the first drive going well. As far as the power steering issue, it could be a hose that is collapsing internally and not allowing fluid to the pump
Great work! I have always broken my engines in on the dyno also, you should have given more than 3-6lbs of boost on initial break in (if you ask me). We often run about 1.1-4bar..
Hey guys congrats on getting the Evo on the road! Its great to see. I live live watching this kind of content. I do the same kind on work on my e36 track only M3. Anyway try raising the front end (or just the driver/side so the air goes up to the reservoir) again and turning the steering wheel w/ the motor on till the wine goes away. It may take more then 5 try. And maybe Tap the lines and steering rack to agitate the potential air in the system. Not sure if that will work or not. Ok keep up the vids coming. 👍
stick it on the ramps, turn engine over, fill oil res, start turning the wheel lock to lock, at least 10 times each way, keep an eye on the res for any bubbles. Turn engine off - Job done :)
I had a filter in the power steering reservoir on my 4g63t that didn’t even look clogged but I just removed it and the fluid was able to flow much better. Just replace the fluid sometimes and you don’t need any silly filter that seems to hurt the flow thats needed anyways. May possibly be an issue for you. If you have a little filter inside that were you check the fluid. Remove it!
I believe the wheels need resistance for power steering to actually function. (Wheels on the ground, not in the air) because the rotary valve in the rack needs to twist to allow fluid flow into the rack that's probably why you couldn't bleed it, when the wheels are in the air there is no resistance
So over it? oh no! Hope you don't have to work on another one any time soon! :D :D Sick build as always. Cool that so many projects are coming together.
Loving the videos guy as well as that Evo! We specialize in Subarus and evos at my job and it's nice to see one being properly built. You should see some of the cars were brought LOL
Nice work guys and i love the silver on the evo and love the wheels.Powersteering pump is busted if it keeps making noise.I encountered that a few time in my 12 years of beeing a mechanic(volvo).So i would start with the pump first, could be the rack too but never had any problems with steering racks to be honoust.Keep on wrenching guys and good luck with the finishing touches.👍✌️👉
Sometimes power steering pumps are sensitive if you dont bleed the it properly from the start. Sobits probably a dead pump. I never crank the engine while bleeding. Just lift it and crank the wheel 20-40 times lock to lock and have someone watch and fill the reisivor, when the bubbles are out start the car and a lot of small bubbles will come up and top off.
Turn the wheel lock to lock on the ground few times it help ot bleed better as it putting load on the pump also sometime it take a while to bleed out all the air
Does the p/s pump have a line seal on the suction side or is the reservoir hose really hard when cold. Both can cause aeration without too much foaming of the fluid. Hope this helps
Regarding power steering: had similar issue on my STI and it turned out to be I needed to change seals in the pump. It could be sucking air from a line somewhere.
I used to have that same PS whine with my rb25 anytime I drained the system (or blew out a line). I did the same thing, getting the wheels off the ground and holding revs to 3k rpm while steering from lock to lock but that never worked. The only solution was to just drive it and do some high rpm pulls to get the flow high and force those micro bubbles from the system.
Is that a Dolphin (Delphin) gray 1988 BMW 325 back there? Could be mine, I sold it to someone in Barrie about 8 months ago and then they recently sold it. Sedan, auto? Aside from that, the Evo is a thing of beauty guys, one more legend to add to Pete's incredible fleet of cars.
If your bov is vented to the atmosphere and its using a stock mitsu maf it wont idle. Recirculate the bov if that's the case. You'll richen it out and that may not be great for the rings without it. But I'm guessing it meters the air in some other fashion with the aem?
Not keen on putting that kind of loading on the wheel bearing with the hammer. I always putt the hub off and put it on a flat surface with a appropriately sized socket supporting the hub around the old stud.
Power steering whine. I had and Audi one time that I had to replace the high pressure hose on. I just had a custom one made because the factory one was crazy expensive; it whined like crazy and aerated the fluid like crazy even after bleeding it for days. Turns out there was some sort of restrictor in the factory line that would limit the flow. Put a factory hose with the restrictor in it on the car and it was quiet as a mouse. Don’t know evo’s much but maybe something to consider? Does it need a restrictor or could it be bad if it has one?
never knew about this stuff breaking an engine in. you learn every day. could you also explain why to do this and what happens if you dont? not that I'm going to need this information but I like knowing things :S
If you don't do a proper break in, the piston rings may not seal properly and you may have problems ranging from less power to oil consumption due to poor sealing. The cylinder bore is honed before engine assembly, and it's this honed surface that the rings cut their seal on. The honed surface has microscopic highs and lows on its surface, think like a saw blade. So if you don't break in the engine properly, you can 'glaze' the bore where burnt oil fills up the highs and lows the honed surface has, and the ring won't cut itself a seal, it will kinda glide across it.
These Evo’s tend to understeer, now you have set your camber and know you have a lot more clearance to the front wings lips, get some wider rubber on the front 👍
Having just watched an episode on aero, lifting the hood only works to let heat out when the car is stationary; at speed it becomes a high pressure zone and will prevent air leaving the bay anyway.
That actually is the opposite of how that works, it’s like an old cowl hood, air will come in the front like normal and air also comes in a raised hood, then they create stagnant airflow making the problem worse.
kostas stergiopoulos In theory that’s what you would think, just doesn’t work in practice. Like someone said some guys do it for cooling after a run, but I just pop the hood.
Just did a very similar job on my Evo IX. I had tried to fill the power steering system before first start with car in air, reservoir open and turning wheels side to side. Wouldn't take it. On first start the pump wined as expected and we topped it up just while it idled and that seemed to more or less fix it. I then put some light miles on it and topped it up again which seemed to improve steering feel. I do not really know what I'm doing so I'm interested to know what you find out as well. My system was none dry to start with as I replaced the rack and the main feed line and had the entire system out of the car. It was down to a Barr chassis like yours for rust repair
Can you see air bubbles in the P/S reservoir? Is the fluid Milky? is there a noticeable change in P/S fluid during steering. Check if P/S fluid level remains within 5 mm when engine is stopped or when started. Does P/S fluid level suddenly rises after the engine has stopped? all signs of improper P/S oil system bleeding
What fixed my whiny power steering in the STI was switching to Amsoil ATF, though it was also starting to weep a little fluid at the pump feed line. Did you check o-rings? Also, try the air-bleeding method of turning the wheel back and forth while the engine is off before starting it back up. Might need to do it on the lift though.
For the PS maybe wrong PS fluid ?? As dumb as it may seem, some JDM cars use ATF Dex-Merc 3 instead of PS fluid and the manual only has a small mention on a small (see hidden lol) text
Really dig the dash and CAN module. Another thing i'm hoping to see from AEM (unless i missed them already having it), is a PDM. Replacing all the old fuses and relays, especially with older cars, with re-settable solid state components, is so nice. Looking forward to the next videos! Also, Anti-lag when
Hey guys, love this series. Which company do you have the Evo insured with? I'm military relocating from MB to ON and it's hard to find a straightforward answer. Thanks!
18:30 "Its a bit of a bumpy ride eh?" most canadian thing ever said
I used to work at Volvo's development facility here in France and I was operating a chassis dyno. We used to break in (engines a little bit) but also gearboxes and rear axles at different loads. Our dyno had 2 big DC motor directly coupled to 9000kg rollers. That way the dyno can simulate road resistance given the right data or be in Iso speed mode. You set a roller speed that matches your rpm and gear, and you can do whatever you want with load. Very handy!
That is some cool info!
Did you do any 4C testing they should do a V70R build
@@therightnuke I should have precised, it was Volvo Trucks facility. To some its not quite as exciting, but having 750hp trucks full noise trying to tear appart every component is quite satisfying :D
The same on the engine dyno, Penta has a twincharger 725hp engine (big Holset helped by a twinscrew blower and electromagnetic ogura clutch). The max torque steady rpm point made the floor shaking. Good memories :D.
The dyno dynamics all wheel drive dyno at my job also has loud input. You can lock it at a certain speed and actually up the loud to simulate different driving conditions. We often break in new engines that
Use am adapter and a hand vacuum pump to pull a little vacuum on the power steering reservoir while doing your bleed procedure. Learned this working at the Ford dealership. Helps pull the aerated fluid up and out.
20:09 I really appreciate how Speed Academy is willing to listen to suggestions, feedback, and ideas from the comments section. There's been a trend for a while now among automotive UA-camrs to endlessly complain about the comments section, even though in reality the kind of comments they complain about are an incredibly small minority, or often don't even exist.
I had an issue with my power steering making noise and that was just the reservoir not being mounted correctly, it was hard mounted and the vibrations caused it to suck up air, so had to mount it on some rubber bushings, then do the turning full lock to lock 5-10 times before it got quiet .
Great video guys! Nice shirt ;)
Don’t go mad with the front wheel spacers, going much over 10mm will give the steering a strange feel as it effects the offset from the ball joint and the Ackerman angle. Get some wider wheels.
Only if the scrub radius is affected
If you want it to handle well lift the nose a little. CP9A’s don’t like having front lower control arms inverted will also balance it better.
Also bin the spacers.
Love the car. Floods my memory of my VI.
Tip: When installing ARP studs that way (I have done it aswell) - The threads get super hot and sharp. Use a lubricant on the threads as engine oil or WD40 instead, and it works muuuuch better. Doesnt get as hot, and it pulls the stud in a lot easier.
What about the lube they sell? :o
@@alfredotovar8984 The lube is used to get the correct torque on threads/nuts/washers when torqueing headstuds for example. These longer wheel studs are in fact meant to be pressed in. I believe even the instructions state clearly to not mount them this way (but 9/10 people do including myself) they are supposed to be pressed in when the hub is off the car - So a little lubricant on the threads makes it go much smoother. I didnt use WD40 on the 2 first studs on my car, and they almost got destroyed. Then used wd40 on all the rest of them, and they had no visible marks on the threads from installation, even the "wrong" way.
@@Doggepp you can also buy, small bearings wich helps it not binding on the hub, but if not using those some oil or grease on the washers will also help.
To bleed the Evo pump, make sure all jubilee clips are tight, jack the front of the car up a little, start the engine and give it full left lock (hold for 3 seconds) then full right lock (hold for 3 seconds). Do that a few times and it should bleed the air out. I had the same issue on my 6.
With the car running and the power steering reservoir cap off, turn the wheel lock to lock repeatedly (fairly quickly but not too fast) until the noise gets quieter, making sure to top it off if need be. Once it seems like you hit diminishing returns with how quiet the noise gets, put the cap back on and just drive it for a while. It will bleed itself over time, make sure to check the level now and then but the amount of air is *probably* so small you won't need to top it off.
the most exciting part of 2020 is this channel's projects!
Hey the Evo 6 has a known issue with the fuel gauge misreading because the tank is split in the middle for the prop shaft. great to see the Evo up and running!
My guage can drop from 3/4 to 1/4 in the blink of an eye lol
@@o.k.7563 Lol it really happens that fast. a sharp turn and your back to 3/4's again!
@@Keith_Long so true, I gave it some welly yesterday and gained quarter of a tank for 10 minutes lol
“RPM is most important”.... famous last words...’are those blue lights behind’, ‘where’s that dam speedo’ 😂
The problem with the power steering could be a bad o-ring on the low pressure/"suction" side of the pump that is allowing air into the system. I had a similar problem on a mid 2000's Honda that I was fixing for a relative of mine a year ago.
As many cars as you guys build, you might want to look into a wheel stud puller, it’s a tapered bit for the lug, but it rides on a bearing that helps everything go through easier.
For the power steering issue, make sure the reservoir is full, wheels up in the air, with engine off turn the wheel lock to lock a couple times slowly and check for any bubbles in fluid. When no bubbles present, turn engine on and at idle slowly turn from one lock direction to the other, hold wheel at that full lock point and turn the engine off, let it rest and the bubbles dissipate. Then continue the same to the other side. If noise isn't gone after that, it's probably something with the pump. Good luck with the project. I'm attempting to convert my 95 mirage sedan to and Evo 3.
My one and only dream car, so inspiring to watch the build series on this Evo VI
Best builds on UA-cam been watching this channel since it started you guys have come a long way
Never have i clicked a video this fast!
So cool that you loaded the stock gauge faces in! Awesome work PT
Wooooot! I can't wait to see these 2 awd rivals go at it!
I have been waiting for this build to be finished. I hope next video is a track test? Kudos!
Lisle makes an amazing tool specifically for pressing in wheels studs. It's basically a lug seat on a bearing. Absolutely worth the $20.
To align the shift knob, put pieces of paper into the threaded hole on the knob and keep adding until it's all lined up when tight
Yes!! That's how I've always done it 🤙
Props for that wiring , My head would explode and take me forever.
How about you guys replace that under hood insulator? Its looking kind of ragged. I recently replaced mine and made a world of difference visually. I know its not a performance part, but that engine-bay is sweet and it would compliment everything under the hood. Nice work!
Job to do on mine as well
U might need to adjust the rate of change on the fuel guage to slow the movement. Not sure with the AIM but the Race Technology dash, you average the samples across a lot longer period otherwise the fuel guage goes all over the place.
If you remove the pump, you could check if there is any play on the bearing or if you hear a metal pinging noise if you spin the pulley. I did that on my car and it worked.
i know this isn't the first video, but those wheels look so good especially on this car.
My Impreza pump did that after a drain and refil too, I turned lock to lock as fast as I could 3 or 4 times with the front jacked. Didn't work so I did it while driving in a quiet street.
Fixed.
Glad to see the first drive going well. As far as the power steering issue, it could be a hose that is collapsing internally and not allowing fluid to the pump
Awesome evo! You guys deserve a million + subscribers.
Great work! I have always broken my engines in on the dyno also, you should have given more than 3-6lbs of boost on initial break in (if you ask me). We often run about 1.1-4bar..
Hey guys congrats on getting the Evo on the road! Its great to see. I live live watching this kind of content. I do the same kind on work on my e36 track only M3. Anyway try raising the front end (or just the driver/side so the air goes up to the reservoir) again and turning the steering wheel w/ the motor on till the wine goes away. It may take more then 5 try. And maybe Tap the lines and steering rack to agitate the potential air in the system. Not sure if that will work or not. Ok keep up the vids coming. 👍
stick it on the ramps, turn engine over, fill oil res, start turning the wheel lock to lock, at least 10 times each way, keep an eye on the res for any bubbles. Turn engine off - Job done :)
That Evo 6 build is Godly.
Been waiting for this for so long! The sti and the Evo are two of my favorite cars and you guys have built to amazing versions of them!
I had a filter in the power steering reservoir on my 4g63t that didn’t even look clogged but I just removed it and the fluid was able to flow much better. Just replace the fluid sometimes and you don’t need any silly filter that seems to hurt the flow thats needed anyways. May possibly be an issue for you. If you have a little filter inside that were you check the fluid. Remove it!
Damn watching this just opened my eyes. That splash screen is dope
I believe the wheels need resistance for power steering to actually function. (Wheels on the ground, not in the air) because the rotary valve in the rack needs to twist to allow fluid flow into the rack that's probably why you couldn't bleed it, when the wheels are in the air there is no resistance
I believe the last touch in every build series should be the wheels! It would make the hype bigger.
Hoping you guys will build evo 3 in the future, one of my favorite evo ever made
YES made my day to see you're getting on with it
So over it? oh no! Hope you don't have to work on another one any time soon! :D :D Sick build as always. Cool that so many projects are coming together.
Loving the videos guy as well as that Evo! We specialize in Subarus and evos at my job and it's nice to see one being properly built. You should see some of the cars were brought LOL
Yooo this is definitely going to be good! really love that cluster inside the dash! Looks so retro sport.
Nice work guys and i love the silver on the evo and love the wheels.Powersteering pump is busted if it keeps making noise.I encountered that a few time in my 12 years of beeing a mechanic(volvo).So i would start with the pump first, could be the rack too but never had any problems with steering racks to be honoust.Keep on wrenching guys and good luck with the finishing touches.👍✌️👉
Sounds great!! This evo shall eat up the sti!! IF you match the power. The aem dash is so sick tho!
Finally some Evo content 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Sometimes power steering pumps are sensitive if you dont bleed the it properly from the start. Sobits probably a dead pump. I never crank the engine while bleeding. Just lift it and crank the wheel 20-40 times lock to lock and have someone watch and fill the reisivor, when the bubbles are out start the car and a lot of small bubbles will come up and top off.
Use locktight to level the shift knob and let it set. Good to go in 15 min
Turn the wheel lock to lock on the ground few times it help ot bleed better as it putting load on the pump also sometime it take a while to bleed out all the air
Does the p/s pump have a line seal on the suction side or is the reservoir hose really hard when cold. Both can cause aeration without too much foaming of the fluid. Hope this helps
Regarding power steering: had similar issue on my STI and it turned out to be I needed to change seals in the pump. It could be sucking air from a line somewhere.
Such a gorgeous evo!! how I miss my Evo 9 dearly 😔
I love this car so much
I used to have that same PS whine with my rb25 anytime I drained the system (or blew out a line). I did the same thing, getting the wheels off the ground and holding revs to 3k rpm while steering from lock to lock but that never worked. The only solution was to just drive it and do some high rpm pulls to get the flow high and force those micro bubbles from the system.
i just screamed when i saw this update on the evo
Is that a Dolphin (Delphin) gray 1988 BMW 325 back there? Could be mine, I sold it to someone in Barrie about 8 months ago and then they recently sold it. Sedan, auto? Aside from that, the Evo is a thing of beauty guys, one more legend to add to Pete's incredible fleet of cars.
For your power steering problem that might be the O-rings like a couple other people say.
I’ve found that 9x18 inch wheels with an et30 fits perfectly
If your bov is vented to the atmosphere and its using a stock mitsu maf it wont idle. Recirculate the bov if that's the case. You'll richen it out and that may not be great for the rings without it. But I'm guessing it meters the air in some other fashion with the aem?
Not keen on putting that kind of loading on the wheel bearing with the hammer. I always putt the hub off and put it on a flat surface with a appropriately sized socket supporting the hub around the old stud.
Great work guys!
8:33 Trial and Error at its finest with the shift knobs
Power steering whine. I had and Audi one time that I had to replace the high pressure hose on. I just had a custom one made because the factory one was crazy expensive; it whined like crazy and aerated the fluid like crazy even after bleeding it for days. Turns out there was some sort of restrictor in the factory line that would limit the flow. Put a factory hose with the restrictor in it on the car and it was quiet as a mouse. Don’t know evo’s much but maybe something to consider? Does it need a restrictor or could it be bad if it has one?
never knew about this stuff breaking an engine in. you learn every day. could you also explain why to do this and what happens if you dont? not that I'm going to need this information but I like knowing things :S
If you don't do a proper break in, the piston rings may not seal properly and you may have problems ranging from less power to oil consumption due to poor sealing.
The cylinder bore is honed before engine assembly, and it's this honed surface that the rings cut their seal on. The honed surface has microscopic highs and lows on its surface, think like a saw blade. So if you don't break in the engine properly, you can 'glaze' the bore where burnt oil fills up the highs and lows the honed surface has, and the ring won't cut itself a seal, it will kinda glide across it.
These Evo’s tend to understeer, now you have set your camber and know you have a lot more clearance to the front wings lips, get some wider rubber on the front 👍
Finally its back!!
You guys should put the evo and sti up against the supercar killer on the track
Why use that many spacers? Feels like it’d be better to just trade those wheels for some with a lower offset. That said, I love this car!
They're just using one spacer. And since they match the hub diameter they're perfectly safe
@@minilurk11 I believe they said that they are using both 7,5 and 10 mm on the front and one of them on the back, if I'm not mistaken
DP is the Canadian Eric the car guy!
Ditch the spacers and get a rim with the right offset instead? :P
Nobody cares for your opinion
@@alexvranesich6774 Or yours... Or mine for that matter too.
Exactly!
engine sounds so good
Check the o ring on the banjo bolt on top of the pump you could be sucking air
Wait 🤔... You put a digital gauge cluster in just to make the gauges look like the stock ones 🤪
And the digital versions are so SMALL! :o
Evo ECU's are notoriously tricky, so when they had to use a standalone it was probably easier to swap the cluster than to make the original work right
They want all the gauges on there. They can cycle through and show the gauges they need. Not just rpm, speed, etc.
Evo for the win.
Love this build. Can't wait to see it rip TMP!
Pull vacuum on the power steering reservoir while it's running and turn the wheel back and forth
Its so beautiful .
Maybe try using a vacuum bleeder on the power steering reservoir.
great video guys!! consider lifting the back of the hood a little bit for better air flow in the engine bay while cruising.
Having just watched an episode on aero, lifting the hood only works to let heat out when the car is stationary; at speed it becomes a high pressure zone and will prevent air leaving the bay anyway.
That actually is the opposite of how that works, it’s like an old cowl hood, air will come in the front like normal and air also comes in a raised hood, then they create stagnant airflow making the problem worse.
The 6's bonnet bulge and vents are designed to make the air flow draw out the heat as it passes over the bonnet.
Thanks for the updates! For real i thought it would help because i saw it on some 700hp cars here in Greece
kostas stergiopoulos In theory that’s what you would think, just doesn’t work in practice. Like someone said some guys do it for cooling after a run, but I just pop the hood.
First time seeing this series but like evo's kill STI's all day everyday
Just did a very similar job on my Evo IX. I had tried to fill the power steering system before first start with car in air, reservoir open and turning wheels side to side. Wouldn't take it. On first start the pump wined as expected and we topped it up just while it idled and that seemed to more or less fix it. I then put some light miles on it and topped it up again which seemed to improve steering feel. I do not really know what I'm doing so I'm interested to know what you find out as well. My system was none dry to start with as I replaced the rack and the main feed line and had the entire system out of the car. It was down to a Barr chassis like yours for rust repair
Have to wonder if the old PS fluid was very old and full of crud, which was helping nurse along a dying seal somewhere.
Can you see air bubbles in the P/S reservoir? Is the fluid Milky? is there a noticeable change in P/S fluid during steering. Check if P/S fluid level remains within 5 mm when engine is stopped or when started. Does P/S fluid level suddenly rises after the engine has stopped?
all signs of improper P/S oil system bleeding
What fixed my whiny power steering in the STI was switching to Amsoil ATF, though it was also starting to weep a little fluid at the pump feed line. Did you check o-rings? Also, try the air-bleeding method of turning the wheel back and forth while the engine is off before starting it back up. Might need to do it on the lift though.
I swear by muteki stuff. Good nuts
When he was testing the Turn Signal even I was like it's JDM so it's backwards I cracked up a lil on that mistake.
something that i did on my car to make the gate line up is simply stuffing the knob with something until it did
Silly question it's the right fluid being used?
Finally been waiting forever lol
For the PS maybe wrong PS fluid ?? As dumb as it may seem, some JDM cars use ATF Dex-Merc 3 instead of PS fluid and the manual only has a small mention on a small (see hidden lol) text
Really dig the dash and CAN module. Another thing i'm hoping to see from AEM (unless i missed them already having it), is a PDM. Replacing all the old fuses and relays, especially with older cars, with re-settable solid state components, is so nice.
Looking forward to the next videos!
Also, Anti-lag when
Such a beauty😍
I love those wheels
Oh sure, make the guy who car sick look at the laptop. Lol awesome build guys! Cant wait to see it rip.
Hey guys, love this series. Which company do you have the Evo insured with? I'm military relocating from MB to ON and it's hard to find a straightforward answer. Thanks!
Go get em Pete!