i flushed the engine of my 1960 imperial today. I mixed 2 liters SAE 10 and 5 liters diesel. PERFECT!! After flushing, the oil pressure increased a lot. Many thanks Adam
you can hear the engine doing flap flap flap flap from lack of lubrication and rpm drop accompaning the noise. From a cleaning standpoint, it doesnt mwtter if youre using 20% of diesel or 100% of diesel, the claning will be the same (very little). Now, from a lubrication standpoint, more than 30% of dies3l will dilute too much the lubricant and will start to make weird noises like at 4 min 30 seconds, from metal-to-metal contact a respective frictikn (rpm drop).
Its an old method of flushing engines that works very well. I draw out 3 litres of oil and add 3 litres of diesel and idle -(no revving!!) for half hour. There is enough oil to lubricate the engine and enough diesel to clean the sludge. If you buy ANY commercial engine flush, smell it - its only kerosene. Drain the lot, renew oil filter and add new engine oil. Job done.
one of my friend already did that in his brandnew isuzu crosswind when the warranty expired, and my other friend used ATF same procedure. and i think i will try this too. tnx for sharing
Diesel loosens up sludge and burnt oil real good. Use it all the time for cleaning lube oil separators and other mechanical devices with loads of burnt/bad/old engine oil and sludge. And diesel is still an oil, and an oil has the ability to lubricate. If you get petrol on your hands they get dry. If you get diesel on your hands you will feel that its oily and smooth. Diesel is also waaay cheaper than any oil cleaning product. And it does the work, sometimes better.
As of 2006, majority of petroleum-based diesel fuel available in Europe & North America is of ultra-low-sulfur diesel type. So then your adding more chemicals to diesel to make your own cleaning agent? Seems like more work and more cost than just buying something that was engineered to meet and exceed OEM specs. Sulfur may lubricate the diesel fuel delivery system, but it doesn't lubricate the engine in the area of the pistons rings enough to combat the massive amount of friction they endure.
I read many of the comments and a 50/50 blend of motor oil & Diesel/Kerosene works very well on really dirty engines, just run it at a fast idle 1200-1500 RPM for 10-15 min to allow the diesel to dissolve crud from burnt oil and other deposits in the oiling system. Allow to drain out longer than normal (30 min) and the oil will be very clean after the first trip. I normally use 6 oz of diesel fuel per quart of sump capacity once a year, it works very well for me.
This will work like a charm. Use kerosene or diesel, let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Strong enough to clean out the sludge but enough oil not to damage seals. Do it a couple times. Then drain it all , put a new oil filter and fresh oil and you're good to go! ❤️
Flush with diesel fuel not necessarily a problem as liquids aren't compressible, and it is also an oil which lubes the injection pump. But: anyone who read about oil analysis possibly knows that fuels dilute the lube oil. So after the two 100% diesel flush, quite a bit diesel fuel will be in the engine and that will dilute the fresh motor oil. So for the second run I would use the cheapest motor oil mixed with 50% diesel, or would use it purely for a third run, then would drain it and fill up with the quality oil. Which I use anyway (HD oils) and replace it about every 7k km, so I dont have to flush the engine.
Laszlo Sz If you change the oil filter, not much fuel will be left to dilute the oil. Besides, the fuel should evaporate from the oil, so one should only need to check the level after a bit of driving.
David Platenkamp could I use this method for my Suzuki Ltz400? I'm getting some milky oil. What brand of diesel is best for this and where can I find it?
Hi there. It won't help ..... You have head gasket problem or oil cooler leaking problem. You can clean engine with this method but It wont solve the problem. I recommend compression test first.Or see if You have bubbles in the radiator.That will indicate the problem.Good luck
Kendricks Hayes Jr The first thing you need to do is to change the oil and see if the oil turns milky again. It could have been caused by water ingress other than from the cooling system.
i been doing this on my 2004 truck , i bought it new, i started at 36 tousand miles (after warranty expired) i do it evey 9 tousand miles ( three oil changes) odometer is at 179K truck doesnt leak ,burn or smokes at all, at ever flush i get my 4 quarts of used oil back ,truck runs good as always starts perfect at -20F or 100F , but i dont run full diesel i use 2 quarts of my used oil and two quarts of diesel for my flush ,i let it idle for 20 minutes with that ,flush and refill with new oil.
I wouldn't do that. In here people have been pouring 4 deciliters diesel to the engine with the oil in it and run it on raised idle (about 2000 rpm) for 20 minutes. After that you should (obviously) drain the oil out and pour pure diesel in there, wait 2 hrs, drain those out, repeat and after that, pour higher viscosity oil than normally, drive for approx. 200km and do normal oil change. That has been working flawlessly and haven't heard of broken engines
No professional automotive service shops use diesel fuel for an engine flush in their customers vehicles. If it really worked better, they would use it. They don't use diesel fuel, they use our products. They know using the right product to protect the gaskets, o-rings and friction points on the motor during a flush is crucial for an engine to last. 2 gallons of diesel is about $8 bucks, 1 can of engine flush is $19 bucks, so you save $11 and risk ruining your motor. Not worth the risk.
Thank you for the advise, I done the flushing with Kerosene and now the engine of my petrol Ford Mondeo run better ,the only problem is that it sound more like a Diesel now, my mechanic told me that it s normal for a Ford ,is it true?
I did this procedure yesterday, and last year, and year before. After flushing (and pouring new synthetic oil 5w40) engine is working quieter, and my 23years old Toyota can achieve greater speed. For many years I was using semi synthetic oils 10w40 - max. speed was ~170km/h. Two years ago I started flushing engine and pouring synthetic oils - max. speed is ~200km/h. My procedure is flushing 3 times - diesel from 1st time is black, from 3rd time is clean.
I do the same with my fiat BUT with one difference .I use half diesel half fresh sewing machine oil , on the original liters (my engine 2l oil 2l diesel ) Never had any problem JUST lot of smoke but never any big partials when i flush it .I also start the engine for 2 to 3 sec after i flush before i close the carter and fill fresh oil + filter .Dont use viscose oil , it penetrates oil gaskets and makes your engine dirty !
Hi, probably are my oil controll rings stuck due to carbon (Mazda 6 1.8). Best way is to take the engine apart but before doing that I would try this method. But will the diesel breakup the carbon between the oilring in this short period of time, lets say 2 times 3 minutes? Grtz
I did it again with 16 litres of diesel twice in my 2005 Mercedes Benz ML 500 . I drained out all the engine oil and pour in 8 litres of diesel fuel and idle for 3 min, drained that out and pour another 8 litres of diesel fuel and idle for another 3 mins, and drained out again completely while removing the oil filter. Afterwards, i refill my car with 8 litres of synthetic total quarts 5w40 and a new filter.Guys don't fear, it works perfect. Gudos to Adams
Diesel is a good cleaner, and does lubricate. But I wouldn't rely on lubrication from only diesel as you do. 50/50 or even 80/20 mix oil/diesel would do just fine (cheapest possible oil is ok). Costs a bit more, but much safer in my oppinion. Also never fill above MAX, this can cause excessive oil pressure, and blow gaskets. Changing oilfilter twice is also a good idea, either with oildrain, or after first flush. Then, ofcourse after flushing is completed.
IF AN EXPERT tells you that your engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt because of excessive gunk AND that there is NO REMEDY inside the engine block by all means give this method a chance as a last life saving method for your engine.
I do this very thing every 3rd oil change or 15k in miles. I only do it once and i let the diesel drain for an hour or 2 before i put in the new oil. I also use Prolong engine oil treatment. All my cars and trucks have gotten well over 200k without an issues and still were very quite while running.
@ protect auto care diesel works great for flushing engines it's a lubricant. Ever touch the stuff with your hands and it feels smooth it's lubricating and it's a perfect slashing agent to get the build up of carbon from an engine block. I flush my engine three times with the stuff every oil change I do. My pickup runs fine at 275000 km and still going.
I do this too, but I don't start the engine, I just let it sit for a couple of hours. This works, because diesel is a heavy oil that picks up all the carbon. If you take a sniff of engine flush liquid, it smells like diesel, and if you look on the msds sheets, it always lists, heavy aromatic oils, cause they don;t wanna say it's just diesel oil, lol
Don't do it like this. Flush with diesel fuel, but add only 1 quart of diesel fuel to existing used oil after engine is warmed up. Then let idle for 5 minutes. Drain, change filter and add new oil. Don't fill engine full of diesel fuel and risk damage.
I used diesel a many time. I would change the oil filter first. then add a half qt of diesel run 10 m at 2000 rmp . then change oil run it again for 10 min then change again and filter this time. never had any issues .
I used to add a quart of kerosene just before an oil change on a warm engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes and that always seemed to do as good od a job as any motor slush treatment. Now I just let the dealer change my oil because they do it cheaper than what I can myself...although it's the ONLY thing they do cheaper, lol. I do all my own maintenance other than the oil myself now.
Adam, I am looking at this all amazed as I still can not figure out how the engine start with fuel only in the crank case. I have an 07 audi a4 that taps at idle; sound like a chain-tensioner issue but many owner of the same model reported that an alledged oil pick up tube gets blocked by gunk and prevent oil from circulating as it is supposed to therefore some claims having resolved their issues cleaning their engine with diesel just like this. However, they keep the diesel in the crankcase overnight then drain it and wait 5hours for the interior to dry completely before re-doing an oil change. Any insight/help/recommendation will be very much appreciated.
right, ok I can see why your flushing, I'm considering doing this but it looks like your using 9 litres of diesel in total at current prices (2014) that's roughly £1.38/l, that's £12.42. bottle of engine flush costs between £5-£9. I know you can reuse that diesel in a less modern diesel engine, but at the risk of being done if your tank gets dipped, is it worth it? is this procedure even justified at the price of fuel?
ATF can be used as an engine flush I would not use brake fluid it will destroy your seals . Marvel's Mystery Oil works very well as an engine flush you should give it a try
no, a blown head gasket is a blown head gasket. You need to take car to a repair shop, take top of the engine off, resurface the deck (machine shop) and reseal with fresh gasket and install upper intake manifold.You're better off with a junkyard engine installed than fixing yours.
Interesting stuff You obviously have no clue what you are talking about here.. your engine does not have a deck... you get the head and block decked which is squaring them up and making sure they are flat so the head gasket seals properly...
I never realised UA-cam had soooooo many auto engineers! If you're not happy don't do it! Why the need to convince the world you're right? And for those intending to reply telling everyone about all their qualifications and experience - that doesn't mean you're right either!
Diesel fuel is essentially heavy oil, so it's not like it's no oil, as diesel fuel is primarily oil. But I would mix some regular oil with diesel fuel.
What if the diesel heats up to its flash point or fire point which is around 65 - 70 deg C. The entire engine would blow. Rather i feel an engine treatment fluid would do the job cheaper and much safer.
Jason Karmokar Engine flush is petroleum distillate, which is highly flammable and similar to kerosene/diesel. Anyway you have to have available oxygen for the engine to "blow", even if you reached a flash point and the fuel started to burn it would quickly run out of oxygen and kill the process and nothing observable would have happened. The real issue here is friction, fuel isn't the type of lubricant you want in your sump. A better way to flush your engine (though you won't be able to see an instant result) is to substitute one quart of oil with atf for a few oil changes. Much less risk as far as killing a good engine goes and if you have serious sludge buildup your better off using a method that slowly cuts it then a method that quickly cuts it. And to cap this all off, change your damn oil on time, you won't need to do weird shit like this to clean your dirty engine.
Jason Karmokar actually the flash point of diesel is 52 deg c.... engine flush is usually a petroleum based product as well moron... techs have been doing this for years..
The leftover oil mixed with that diesel, thats why it came out black. There is no proof it cleaned the engine, respect engine oil and filter's life and you wont need to do this, ever.
I did this 5 years ago on a Honda Accord that had been neglected and still runs good..... Before I flushed with diesel the oil light was on all the time
could of did better job making this video.. like better close up of the dirty liquid after your flush.. , possible explain what kind of car you have. gas engine vs a diesel engine
One concern I have is if all the filth is released at once, it can clog small ports in chain tensioners, vvt systems, small screens, and block pressure sensors. Though look at all the filth that came out during the flush.
well I have done it so many times I don't even remember, all worked fine. You can sell whatever You want but don't come here to advertise it. Old days people use to drink linseed for constipation NOW you have to buy something from pharmacy to shit well !!
You pooring man, how can engine work with no oil ????? Only use engine flush that you pour into the oil, and the flush must be on engine oil base, about 250ml, f.e. Millers Oil engine flush or Amsoil engine flush...started engine with no oil and let it work only with some aggressive fluid was very stupid performance
Did this one time on a friends 6 cyl chevy nova in 1980. EVERY Lifter was knocking before we did this. Drained oil, let the engine cool off, filled with 4L of Diesel and ran for 1 minute. Changed Filter and put in 5L of Esso Extra XD3. On startup, every lifter knocked, then one by one a lifter would quit knocking. 3 minutes later the lifter noise was GONZO. His noise was so bad going out to the farm that they turned around and came home and took the wife's small British Ford.
The chemicals they add make it oily again so it lubricates. Diesel by its own is a great cleaning product. And you ain't supposed to drive around with it. Being someone who sells cleaning products for engines makes me fear how much ignorance and incompetent you have around engines/oils.
Well done Adam M..To all who gave their comment, seriously, using DIESEL for flushing is the best to clean the engine. Bear in mind, the vehicle is idling only and not driven. At normal idling speed, the diesel cleans the internal combustion and removes all the dirty particles left inside by the previous oil in it. See for yourself when you flush the engine on the first flushing. Dip your hand in it, you will notice the oil still sticking to your hand. Then, after the second flushing, dip your hand again and see the result. No sticky oil on your hand. The engine has thoroughly been cleaned. The engine revs better and a smooth ride is felt when driving. The engine runs quieter and smoother. Great job Adam!
I had cleaned my car's engine with diesel but not like in this video because it's very risky. If your car's engine takes 4 quarts of oil mix two quarts of fresh oil with two quarts of diesel and let the engine run for 3 minutes then drain it. Repeat this process every time you change engine oil this will keep your car's engine clean.
Straight crazy! Anytime you use strong solvents in your crankcase you're just asking for trouble. Hard pieces of sludge braking away and floating around in your engine oil is never a good thing; neither is developing main seal leaks or clogging up oil passages. The best way to clean your engine is by changing the oil and filter every 2-3 thousand miles with a heavy detergent oil (like high mileage oil) and if you must de-sludge it quicker, add a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil after each oil change. This will dissolve the engine sludge in a slower and safer method.
Oil passages will not clog.... the oil passages are fed from oil supply that has already passed through the oil filter. Any particles are trapped there first. What CAN happen is sludge particles may or may not clog the oil pump screen. This can be seen by a loss of oil pressure. This will destroy the engine if not corrected in time.
OK people this is similar to something old school mechs have been doing forever and a necessity on old straight eight Packards! But the old guys used 50% oil 50% kerosene! I would recommend doing the 50/50 method before doing this but I'm sure it would work great if u don't let it run to long it rev the engine. Straight eight engines needed this as the first and last cylinders where known for poor lubrication and clogged oil ports! Just use your brain and if u don't know what ur doing like I'm sure most of these comments come from don't try it just take it to jiffy lube and hope for the best lol Not everyone is made to work on cars!
I only drain about one quart of the oil from my oil pan and then add only that amount of diesel oil back in. Start engine and let idle for 1 hour. Turn off engine and drain oil diesel mix. Replace with new oil and filter. Works like a charm. Been doing it for 40 years and no problems. Never fill your engine with only diesel oil and run it . Not good.
same here , i do 1 quart diesel or Kerosene every oil change , run for 20 minutes then drain ,refill with new oil and filter and my truck always has run good for 250k miles.
kerosene is v good 👍cause it’s dry than diesel and more flush cause flashpoint C49 and no need to drain one liter from old oil just add one liter kerosene on your old oil for 10 minuets only in every 5000 km our every oil change .Regards from Bahrain
I just changed the oil in my 2012 Honda Civic. I flushed it once with Kerosene by putting in a few quarts and running it for 15 seconds or so. Ran great after that. Did the same with the wife's RAV4 2008. It had been a while since the last oil change.
If you do this from the beginning or close to it, I think this would be great. But SOME people are going to try this after they have verrrry serious sludging --in this case there is a very strong probability that chunks will break off. What THEN happens? The chunks that break off fall down into the oil pan. Then they foul the screen on the oil pickup tube hanging in the interior of the oi pan -- soon the driver sees a "low oil pressure" light. If she/he drives for only 60 seconds in that condition, the engine is RUINED. What I recommend for people trying this protocol **after they already have a very seriously sludged engine**: Buy a good oil pan gasket for your exact car model (on Ebay often they're just $11 or so), then run his protocol (while sitting in the car STARING at the oil warning light part, in case it suddenly lights up) AND THEN remove the oil pan --you will be AMAZED at how much stuff is down there waiting to ambush the engine..!!! Scoop out all those chunks and that black stuff, spray it many times with carb fluid and WIPE it out. Make it as if you wanted to eat cereal out of it. Also remove the oil pickup tube (3 bolts) and rapidly swish the screened end part in oil flush fluid (like diesel). Use a stiff copper brush to gently probe the screen to de-foul the screen. Replace the now-clean tube, replace oil pan, replace oil and drive away happily. How do I know? Cuz I just did exactly that on my 96 Camry v6.
blondegaijin . how many hours labor did it take to remove and replace the oil pan on your car , not every one is mechanically inclined to do thier own work
The first time was a b*tch -it took an HOUR to get that sucker off. The original factory gasket is similar to a sticky glue, it's not really a gasket. And u might have to use a knife at first to start prying it off - I had to pound mine in with a rubber mallet, believe it or not. But after you get that sucker in there, it'll come off. Make sure you have a replacement gasket before you do anything. It was the first time I did it but I learned a lot and now it doesn't intimidate me. If I bought a used car it would be the FIRST thing I would do. The amount of cr*p that was stuck in there was amazing.
Do some double oil changes.I mean put 1 time oil and new filter and trow them away after some hundreds of miles, fx 200,.Then put new oil and filter.Use diesel when you have a 500$ car or less.In that case it will do some good.Don't risk in new cars.Change oils and filter on time.
My Uncle told me once back in 1965 that the Army in Australia only use a 50/50 Oil and Kerosene mixture, idle or drive the vehicle no longer than about 5 minutes and then drain, you must always change the oil filter as well, hope this helps.
An effective, but safer way is drain ur oil, re plug, add ATF to ur engine (amount of engine oil it takes). Leave the used oil filter on. Crank your car and leave it on idle 10-20 minutes. Do not rev nor drive ur car. Drain the ATF put new engine oil and filter. 2nd method 1 to 4 ratio ATF and Engine oil. This method Let's you drive your vehicle about 50-100 miles. You need to build oil pressure to clean. 2nd method will do this. Effective way to keep your used engine clean.
Also between flushes run your engine between 30-40 sec. Ideling only don't accelerate. And flush and repeat till you notice diesel looking the same color as when you poured it in. Ideally for my pickup it takes 3 flushes and then I dump an half L of oil, then change my filter, put the plug in. Then add the required amount of oil. Adds engine life guaranteed
this is good but do not forget to change the engine oil after a couple of week since small amount of diesel still trapped in certain parts inside the engine and reduce the engine oil ability to lubricate.
Was that 2 flushes of diesel? I've heard of using diesel in with the engine oil before an oil change, figured I would do a search first.. I was just going to drain about 3/4 of the oil & top up the oil with diesel. Run it for a few minutes than drain, add new synthetic oil & filter.. Nothing wrong with the truck, just that my synthetic oil change is over due by about 2000km. Oil is looking dark & thick. Gasoline engine. Good video by the way! =)
This is a very old trick. As old as cars themselves. In modern times this was forgotten to sell you a engine flush kits and additives. Here is a original recipe that comes from old mechanic. Warm engine. Drain oil from plug and filter. Wash filter and put it back and a plug. Wait a bit for engine to cool even more. Put a FULL amount of diesel. ~5 - 6L. Run car on idle for 1-2 min. Drain.
I have done this Prior to engine teardown, mostly with diesel's. and not worrying about washing a cylinder down or spinning a bearing.... I used half gallon of diesel and a quart or so of solvent. and let run for a bit and repeat until fluid looks clean. NOTE: If you have flat tappet Cam/Lifters and plan on reusing valve train....don't do this. there is a 50/50 chance something is going so gall something
Just by a cheap oil and put that in after a drain of the old oil. Run it for ten or twenty minutes then empty it out and fill up with a good quality oil and change the filter. After doing this my diesel LandCruisers oil stayed clear for two weeks.
"Diesel has zero lubricating or cleaning properties" @Protec Autocare @Adam M We use diesel @work for cleaning off old oil from engine parts. And diesel do lubricate, sulfur in the diesel helps with this. But sulfur is removed due to bad for the environment, therefor other supplements is added to counterpart the lack of sulfur.
i flushed the engine of my 1960 imperial today. I mixed 2 liters SAE 10 and 5 liters diesel. PERFECT!! After flushing, the oil pressure increased a lot. Many thanks Adam
you can hear the engine doing flap flap flap flap from lack of lubrication and rpm drop accompaning the noise. From a cleaning standpoint, it doesnt mwtter if youre using 20% of diesel or 100% of diesel, the claning will be the same (very little). Now, from a lubrication standpoint, more than 30% of dies3l will dilute too much the lubricant and will start to make weird noises like at 4 min 30 seconds, from metal-to-metal contact a respective frictikn (rpm drop).
Its an old method of flushing engines that works very well. I draw out 3 litres of oil and add 3 litres of diesel and idle -(no revving!!) for half hour. There is enough oil to lubricate the engine and enough diesel to clean the sludge.
If you buy ANY commercial engine flush, smell it - its only kerosene. Drain the lot, renew oil filter and add new engine oil. Job done.
one of my friend already did that in his brandnew isuzu crosswind when the warranty expired, and my other friend used ATF same procedure. and i think i will try this too. tnx for sharing
Thanx for this video Adams, It was gr8. Question. Can I use the diesel to flush my 325i BMW ( gas engine)?
well you can always do that but noisy valves need good setting and good engine oil suitable for such a model.
Diesel loosens up sludge and burnt oil real good. Use it all the time for cleaning lube oil separators and other mechanical devices with loads of burnt/bad/old engine oil and sludge.
And diesel is still an oil, and an oil has the ability to lubricate.
If you get petrol on your hands they get dry. If you get diesel on your hands you will feel that its oily and smooth.
Diesel is also waaay cheaper than any oil cleaning product. And it does the work, sometimes better.
As of 2006, majority of petroleum-based diesel fuel available in Europe & North America is of ultra-low-sulfur diesel type. So then your adding more chemicals to diesel to make your own cleaning agent? Seems like more work and more cost than just buying something that was engineered to meet and exceed OEM specs. Sulfur may lubricate the diesel fuel delivery system, but it doesn't lubricate the engine in the area of the pistons rings enough to combat the massive amount of friction they endure.
I read many of the comments and a 50/50 blend of motor oil & Diesel/Kerosene works very well on really dirty engines, just run it at a fast idle 1200-1500 RPM for 10-15 min to allow the diesel to dissolve crud from burnt oil and other deposits in the oiling system. Allow to drain out longer than normal (30 min) and the oil will be very clean after the first trip. I normally use 6 oz of diesel fuel per quart of sump capacity once a year, it works very well for me.
This will work like a charm. Use kerosene or diesel, let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Strong enough to clean out the sludge but enough oil not to damage seals. Do it a couple times. Then drain it all , put a new oil filter and fresh oil and you're good to go! ❤️
Flush with diesel fuel not necessarily a problem as liquids aren't compressible, and it is also an oil which lubes the injection pump. But: anyone who read about oil analysis possibly knows that fuels dilute the lube oil. So after the two 100% diesel flush, quite a bit diesel fuel will be in the engine and that will dilute the fresh motor oil.
So for the second run I would use the cheapest motor oil mixed with 50% diesel, or would use it purely for a third run, then would drain it and fill up with the quality oil. Which I use anyway (HD oils) and replace it about every 7k km, so I dont have to flush the engine.
Laszlo Sz If you change the oil filter, not much fuel will be left to dilute the oil. Besides, the fuel should evaporate from the oil, so one should only need to check the level after a bit of driving.
David Platenkamp could I use this method for my Suzuki Ltz400? I'm getting some milky oil. What brand of diesel is best for this and where can I find it?
Hi there. It won't help ..... You have head gasket problem or oil cooler leaking problem.
You can clean engine with this method but It wont solve the problem.
I recommend compression test first.Or see if You have bubbles in the radiator.That will indicate the problem.Good luck
Adam M thanks but I'm trying to clean it first.
Kendricks Hayes Jr The first thing you need to do is to change the oil and see if the oil turns milky again. It could have been caused by water ingress other than from the cooling system.
i been doing this on my 2004 truck , i bought it new, i started at 36 tousand miles (after warranty expired) i do it evey 9 tousand miles ( three oil changes) odometer is at 179K truck doesnt leak ,burn or smokes at all, at ever flush i get my 4 quarts of used oil back ,truck runs good as always starts perfect at -20F or 100F , but i dont run full diesel i use 2 quarts of my used oil and two quarts of diesel for my flush ,i let it idle for 20 minutes with that ,flush and refill with new oil.
Yes You can blend diesel with some oil it will not hurt.
I wouldn't do that. In here people have been pouring 4 deciliters diesel to the engine with the oil in it and run it on raised idle (about 2000 rpm) for 20 minutes. After that you should (obviously) drain the oil out and pour pure diesel in there, wait 2 hrs, drain those out, repeat and after that, pour higher viscosity oil than normally, drive for approx. 200km and do normal oil change. That has been working flawlessly and haven't heard of broken engines
No professional automotive service shops use diesel fuel for an engine flush in their customers vehicles. If it really worked better, they would use it. They don't use diesel fuel, they use our products. They know using the right product to protect the gaskets, o-rings and friction points on the motor during a flush is crucial for an engine to last. 2 gallons of diesel is about $8 bucks, 1 can of engine flush is $19 bucks, so you save $11 and risk ruining your motor. Not worth the risk.
Thank you for the advise, I done the flushing with Kerosene and now the engine of my petrol Ford Mondeo run better ,the only problem is that it sound more like a Diesel now, my mechanic told me that it s normal for a Ford ,is it true?
what about the remaining fluid in the block?
I did this procedure yesterday, and last year, and year before. After flushing (and pouring new synthetic oil 5w40) engine is working quieter, and my 23years old Toyota can achieve greater speed. For many years I was using semi synthetic oils 10w40 - max. speed was ~170km/h. Two years ago I started flushing engine and pouring synthetic oils - max. speed is ~200km/h. My procedure is flushing 3 times - diesel from 1st time is black, from 3rd time is clean.
How long do you leave the car on idle with the diesel fuel in the engine?
I do the same with my fiat BUT with one difference .I use half diesel half fresh sewing machine oil , on the original liters (my engine 2l oil 2l diesel ) Never had any problem JUST lot of smoke but never any big partials when i flush it .I also start the engine for 2 to 3 sec after i flush before i close the carter and fill fresh oil + filter .Dont use viscose oil , it penetrates oil gaskets and makes your engine dirty !
Hi, probably are my oil controll rings stuck due to carbon (Mazda 6 1.8). Best way is to take the engine apart but before doing that I would try this method. But will the diesel breakup the carbon between the oilring in this short period of time, lets say 2 times 3 minutes? Grtz
will this work on the older cars, 1960-1980 GM 350/ 455 Engines--
I did it again with 16 litres of diesel twice in my 2005 Mercedes Benz ML 500 . I drained out all the engine oil and pour in 8 litres of diesel fuel and idle for 3 min, drained that out and pour another 8 litres of diesel fuel and idle for another 3 mins, and drained out again completely while removing the oil filter. Afterwards, i refill my car with 8 litres of synthetic total quarts 5w40 and a new filter.Guys don't fear, it works perfect. Gudos to Adams
+Aniefiok Hanson auhanson my fellow nairalander! i sight you...
Well, Diesel Fuel have Grades just like Gasoline.. So What Type/Grade Of Diesel Fuel did You Use? Or do Recommended for doing this?
we use diesel mixed with engine oil to flush 50% idle for 60sec. re fill with oil... flush again no problems kero also works well.
Use a good commercial engine flush.
I have a 1990 S10 Blazer 4.3 would it be ok for me to flush my engine with diesel if so how long and how much diesel would I put in motor
Diesel is a good cleaner, and does lubricate. But I wouldn't rely on lubrication from only diesel as you do. 50/50 or even 80/20 mix oil/diesel would do just fine (cheapest possible oil is ok). Costs a bit more, but much safer in my oppinion.
Also never fill above MAX, this can cause excessive oil pressure, and blow gaskets.
Changing oilfilter twice is also a good idea, either with oildrain, or after first flush. Then, ofcourse after flushing is completed.
As far as I could see that engine was running rock solid before and after this flush. You could balance a quarter on it's edge on that valve cover.
Interesting. So your engine is a unleaded gasoline? Is it safe to do this procedure? Looks like it does great job :))
IF AN EXPERT tells you that your engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt because of excessive gunk AND that there is NO REMEDY inside the engine block by all means give this method a chance as a last life saving method for your engine.
I do this very thing every 3rd oil change or 15k in miles. I only do it once and i let the diesel drain for an hour or 2 before i put in the new oil. I also use Prolong engine oil treatment. All my cars and trucks have gotten well over 200k without an issues and still were very quite while running.
+Todd Harbaugh you should get 500 kilometres out of a diesel with regular (5 to 7 k) oil changes.
hay will this work on my 89 Ford bronco I believe I have sludge
@ protect auto care diesel works great for flushing engines it's a lubricant. Ever touch the stuff with your hands and it feels smooth it's lubricating and it's a perfect slashing agent to get the build up of carbon from an engine block. I flush my engine three times with the stuff every oil change I do. My pickup runs fine at 275000 km and still going.
I have a mate who drains 1L of oil out the replaces that 1L with diesel. Then takes it for a drive under normal driving conditions then drops the oil.
There will be some diesel fuel remaining in the oil system for sure.
I do this too, but I don't start the engine, I just let it sit for a couple of hours. This works, because diesel is a heavy oil that picks up all the carbon. If you take a sniff of engine flush liquid, it smells like diesel, and if you look on the msds sheets, it always lists, heavy aromatic oils, cause they don;t wanna say it's just diesel oil, lol
My brother-in-law who was a Army mechanic use to do the same thing but used petrol instead of diesel
Petrol Really?
SmH
orange12v lmao...ummm yeah...
does this help clean the piston ring build up as well?
+Tevin Mohammed That's the idea :)
Don't do it like this. Flush with diesel fuel, but add only 1 quart of diesel fuel to existing used oil after engine is warmed up. Then let idle for 5 minutes. Drain, change filter and add new oil. Don't fill engine full of diesel fuel and risk damage.
I used diesel a many time. I would change the oil filter first. then add a half qt of diesel run 10 m at 2000 rmp . then change oil run it again for 10 min then change again and filter this time. never had any issues .
I used to add a quart of kerosene just before an oil change on a warm engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes and that always seemed to do as good od a job as any motor slush treatment. Now I just let the dealer change my oil because they do it cheaper than what I can myself...although it's the ONLY thing they do cheaper, lol. I do all my own maintenance other than the oil myself now.
Rebel9668 how can they do it cheaper?
Adam,
I am looking at this all amazed as I still can not figure out how the engine start with fuel only in the crank case. I have an 07 audi a4 that taps at idle; sound like a chain-tensioner issue but many owner of the same model reported that an alledged oil pick up tube gets blocked by gunk and prevent oil from circulating as it is supposed to therefore some claims having resolved their issues cleaning their engine with diesel just like this. However, they keep the diesel in the crankcase overnight then drain it and wait 5hours for the interior to dry completely before re-doing an oil change. Any insight/help/recommendation will be very much appreciated.
right, ok I can see why your flushing, I'm considering doing this but it looks like your using 9 litres of diesel in total at current prices (2014) that's roughly £1.38/l, that's £12.42. bottle of engine flush costs between £5-£9. I know you can reuse that diesel in a less modern diesel engine, but at the risk of being done if your tank gets dipped, is it worth it? is this procedure even justified at the price of fuel?
Just get yourself some Liqui Moly engine flush.
I have only done this with an engine that got water in the oil. not a fan of it.
Can you please help with some doubts? I heard that brake fluid or atf can be used as engine flush. Is that true? Thanks a lot for the video!!!
ATF can be used as an engine flush I would not use brake fluid it will destroy your seals . Marvel's Mystery Oil works very well as an engine flush you should give it a try
ATF but never use brake fluy
I blew a head gasket and water got into the oil. If i so this methid will all the water flush out?
no, a blown head gasket is a blown head gasket. You need to take car to a repair shop, take top of the engine off, resurface the deck (machine shop) and reseal with fresh gasket and install upper intake manifold.You're better off with a junkyard engine installed than fixing yours.
Interesting stuff You obviously have no clue what you are talking about here.. your engine does not have a deck... you get the head and block decked which is squaring them up and making sure they are flat so the head gasket seals properly...
this method does clean the engine but it's very risky
Do not do this, it will mess your bearins
I never realised UA-cam had soooooo many auto engineers! If you're not happy don't do it! Why the need to convince the world you're right? And for those intending to reply telling everyone about all their qualifications and experience - that doesn't mean you're right either!
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+edward charles 👍
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Is the car still running
third
no lubrication, wear out engine?
Diesel fuel is essentially heavy oil, so it's not like it's no oil, as diesel fuel is primarily oil. But I would mix some regular oil with diesel fuel.
interesting>>>
ATF works better, fill, run a bit, flush, refill with oil
If I do something like this, I would mix 2-stroke oil in the diesel for that piece of mind. The normal 2% should give enough lubrication.
What if the diesel heats up to its flash point or fire point which is around 65 - 70 deg C. The entire engine would blow.
Rather i feel an engine treatment fluid would do the job cheaper and much safer.
THATS ALL ENGINE FLUSH FUCKING IS...DUMBASS
Get ur basics clear and then you can argue with me.
Actually forget it I just dont have time for dumb people..;)
Jason Karmokar Engine flush is petroleum distillate, which is highly flammable and similar to kerosene/diesel. Anyway you have to have available oxygen for the engine to "blow", even if you reached a flash point and the fuel started to burn it would quickly run out of oxygen and kill the process and nothing observable would have happened.
The real issue here is friction, fuel isn't the type of lubricant you want in your sump. A better way to flush your engine (though you won't be able to see an instant result) is to substitute one quart of oil with atf for a few oil changes. Much less risk as far as killing a good engine goes and if you have serious sludge buildup your better off using a method that slowly cuts it then a method that quickly cuts it.
And to cap this all off, change your damn oil on time, you won't need to do weird shit like this to clean your dirty engine.
Jason Karmokar actually the flash point of diesel is 52 deg c.... engine flush is usually a petroleum based product as well moron... techs have been doing this for years..
29' fart
The leftover oil mixed with that diesel, thats why it came out black. There is no proof it cleaned the engine, respect engine oil and filter's life and you wont need to do this, ever.
I did this 5 years ago on a Honda Accord that had been neglected and still runs good..... Before I flushed with diesel the oil light was on all the time
marvel mstry oil
change title to "How to destroy your engine"
do not put diesel in the oil it's horrible for it.
could of did better job making this video.. like better close up of the dirty liquid after your flush.. , possible explain what kind of car you have. gas engine vs a diesel engine
Diesel is a good cleaner,but i dont trust this method of cleaning engine parts..
One concern I have is if all the filth is released at once, it can clog small ports in chain tensioners, vvt systems, small screens, and block pressure sensors. Though look at all the filth that came out during the flush.
Yeah you're right, I also wonder whether diesel or kerosene can affect the seals, I doubt it but it might be something to consider.
well I have done it so many times I don't even remember, all worked fine. You can sell whatever You want but
don't come here to advertise it.
Old days people use to drink linseed for constipation NOW you have to buy something from pharmacy to shit well !!
You pooring man, how can engine work with no oil ????? Only use engine flush that you pour into the oil, and the flush must be on engine oil base, about 250ml, f.e. Millers Oil engine flush or Amsoil engine flush...started engine with no oil and let it work only with some aggressive fluid was very stupid performance
Did you fart bro? 0:27
Very bad to do this! It can destroy and engine.
Did this one time on a friends 6 cyl chevy nova in 1980. EVERY Lifter was knocking before we did this. Drained oil, let the engine cool off, filled with 4L of Diesel and ran for 1 minute. Changed Filter and put in 5L of Esso Extra XD3. On startup, every lifter knocked, then one by one a lifter would quit knocking. 3 minutes later the lifter noise was GONZO. His noise was so bad going out to the farm that they turned around and came home and took the wife's small British Ford.
This is a really bad idea.... real bad.
specifically why?
The chemicals they add make it oily again so it lubricates.
Diesel by its own is a great cleaning product.
And you ain't supposed to drive around with it.
Being someone who sells cleaning products for engines makes me fear how much ignorance and incompetent you have around engines/oils.
Well done Adam M..To all who gave their comment, seriously, using DIESEL for flushing is the best to clean the engine. Bear in mind, the vehicle is idling only and not driven. At normal idling speed, the diesel cleans the internal combustion and removes all the dirty particles left inside by the previous oil in it. See for yourself when you flush the engine on the first flushing. Dip your hand in it, you will notice the oil still sticking to your hand. Then, after the second flushing, dip your hand again and see the result. No sticky oil on your hand. The engine has thoroughly been cleaned. The engine revs better and a smooth ride is felt when driving. The engine runs quieter and smoother. Great job Adam!
Carl Harn Yes I have done it many times but i gree it works greate with a bit of oil in it ,thanx
I had cleaned my car's engine with diesel but not like in this video because it's very risky. If your car's engine takes 4 quarts of oil mix two quarts of fresh oil with two quarts of diesel and let the engine run for 3 minutes then drain it. Repeat this process every time you change engine oil this will keep your car's engine clean.
Straight crazy! Anytime you use strong solvents in your crankcase you're just asking for trouble. Hard pieces of sludge braking away and floating around in your engine oil is never a good thing; neither is developing main seal leaks or clogging up oil passages. The best way to clean your engine is by changing the oil and filter every 2-3 thousand miles with a heavy detergent oil (like high mileage oil) and if you must de-sludge it quicker, add a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil after each oil change. This will dissolve the engine sludge in a slower and safer method.
Oil passages will not clog.... the oil passages are fed from oil supply that has already passed through the oil filter. Any particles are trapped there first.
What CAN happen is sludge particles may or may not clog the oil pump screen. This can be seen by a loss of oil pressure. This will destroy the engine if not corrected in time.
OK people this is similar to something old school mechs have been doing forever and a necessity on old straight eight Packards! But the old guys used 50% oil 50% kerosene! I would recommend doing the 50/50 method before doing this but I'm sure it would work great if u don't let it run to long it rev the engine. Straight eight engines needed this as the first and last cylinders where known for poor lubrication and clogged oil ports!
Just use your brain and if u don't know what ur doing like I'm sure most of these comments come from don't try it just take it to jiffy lube and hope for the best lol
Not everyone is made to work on cars!
I'll bet that diesel fuel is cleaning the oil filter
Should have added new oil filter....LOL
I only drain about one quart of the oil from my oil pan and then add only that amount of diesel oil back in. Start engine and let idle for 1 hour. Turn off engine and drain oil diesel mix. Replace with new oil and filter. Works like a charm. Been doing it for 40 years and no problems. Never fill your engine with only diesel oil and run it . Not good.
same here , i do 1 quart diesel or Kerosene every oil change , run for 20 minutes then drain ,refill with new oil and filter and my truck always has run good for 250k miles.
idle for one hour....you're nuts lol
kerosene is v good 👍cause it’s dry than diesel and more flush cause flashpoint C49 and no need to drain one liter from old oil just add one liter kerosene on your old oil for 10 minuets only in every 5000 km our every oil change .Regards from Bahrain
I just changed the oil in my 2012 Honda Civic. I flushed it once with Kerosene by putting in a few quarts and running it for 15 seconds or so. Ran great after that. Did the same with the wife's RAV4 2008. It had been a while since the last oil change.
If you do this from the beginning or close to it, I think this would be great. But SOME people are going to try this after they have verrrry serious sludging --in this case there is a very strong probability that chunks will break off. What THEN happens?
The chunks that break off fall down into the oil pan. Then they foul the screen on the oil pickup tube hanging in the interior of the oi pan -- soon the driver sees a "low oil pressure" light. If she/he drives for only 60 seconds in that condition, the engine is RUINED.
What I recommend for people trying this protocol **after they already have a very seriously sludged engine**:
Buy a good oil pan gasket for your exact car model (on Ebay often they're just $11 or so), then run his protocol (while sitting in the car STARING at the oil warning light part, in case it suddenly lights up) AND THEN remove the oil pan --you will be AMAZED at how much stuff is down there waiting to ambush the engine..!!!
Scoop out all those chunks and that black stuff, spray it many times with carb fluid and WIPE it out. Make it as if you wanted to eat cereal out of it.
Also remove the oil pickup tube (3 bolts) and rapidly swish the screened end part in oil flush fluid (like diesel). Use a stiff copper brush to gently probe the screen to de-foul the screen. Replace the now-clean tube, replace oil pan, replace oil and drive away happily.
How do I know? Cuz I just did exactly that on my 96 Camry v6.
blondegaijin . how many hours labor did it take to remove and replace the oil pan on your car , not every one is mechanically inclined to do thier own work
The first time was a b*tch -it took an HOUR to get that sucker off. The original factory gasket is similar to a sticky glue, it's not really a gasket. And u might have to use a knife at first to start prying it off - I had to pound mine in with a rubber mallet, believe it or not. But after you get that sucker in there, it'll come off. Make sure you have a replacement gasket before you do anything. It was the first time I did it but I learned a lot and now it doesn't intimidate me. If I bought a used car it would be the FIRST thing I would do. The amount of cr*p that was stuck in there was amazing.
removal - 1 hr
clearning out (and clean out uptake tube) - 1 hr
putting it back on - 30 min
How about to do it with ATF fluid?? Is it safe?? Better??
Will this work on vintage VW flat-4 engines? And do you add 10% more of the amount of engine oil volume - the diesel fuel?
Do some double oil changes.I mean put 1 time oil and new filter and trow them away after some hundreds of miles, fx 200,.Then put new oil and filter.Use diesel when you have a 500$ car or less.In that case it will do some good.Don't risk in new cars.Change oils and filter on time.
My Uncle told me once back in 1965 that the Army in Australia only use a 50/50 Oil and Kerosene mixture, idle or drive the vehicle no longer than about 5 minutes and then drain, you must always change the oil filter as well, hope this helps.
Another old mechanic trick I heard was varsol since it also has an oil base to it
An effective, but safer way is drain ur oil, re plug, add ATF to ur engine (amount of engine oil it takes). Leave the used oil filter on. Crank your car and leave it on idle 10-20 minutes. Do not rev nor drive ur car. Drain the ATF put new engine oil and filter. 2nd method 1 to 4 ratio ATF and Engine oil.
This method Let's you drive your vehicle about 50-100 miles. You need to build oil pressure to clean. 2nd method will do this. Effective way to keep your used engine clean.
Also between flushes run your engine between 30-40 sec. Ideling only don't accelerate. And flush and repeat till you notice diesel looking the same color as when you poured it in. Ideally for my pickup it takes 3 flushes and then I dump an half L of oil, then change my filter, put the plug in. Then add the required amount of oil. Adds engine life guaranteed
Works real good thanks for the tip
this is good but do not forget to change the engine oil after a couple of week since small amount of diesel still trapped in certain parts inside the engine and reduce the engine oil ability to lubricate.
Was that 2 flushes of diesel? I've heard of using diesel in with the engine oil before an oil change, figured I would do a search first.. I was just going to drain about 3/4 of the oil & top up the oil with diesel. Run it for a few minutes than drain, add new synthetic oil & filter.. Nothing wrong with the truck, just that my synthetic oil change is over due by about 2000km. Oil is looking dark & thick.
Gasoline engine.
Good video by the way! =)
i didn't know strait diesel was safe.
i just mixed it 50/50 with motor oil and ran for a few minutes.
worked good, made my valvetrain noise go away.
This is a very old trick. As old as cars themselves. In modern times this was forgotten to sell you a engine flush kits and additives. Here is a original recipe that comes from old mechanic. Warm engine. Drain oil from plug and filter. Wash filter and put it back and a plug. Wait a bit for engine to cool even more. Put a FULL amount of diesel. ~5 - 6L. Run car on idle for 1-2 min. Drain.
I blew a head gasket and water got into the oil. If i so this methid will all the water flush out?
Will this process works on an car thats been a flood,but hasn't been cranked yet?
I have done this Prior to engine teardown, mostly with diesel's. and not worrying about washing a cylinder down or spinning a bearing.... I used half gallon of diesel and a quart or so of solvent. and let run for a bit and repeat until fluid looks clean.
NOTE: If you have flat tappet Cam/Lifters and plan on reusing valve train....don't do this. there is a 50/50 chance something is going so gall something
will it be safe to perform on a vw beetle?
can you help me? engine on cold temperature or hot( normal working temp)???
amalik
how many km on the veicole, before the engine flush?
Pls, can i carry out this type of engine flush to Toyota previa? It uses diesel and turbo.
how's your engine now? mileage?
does it work with gasoline direct injection ???
Just by a cheap oil and put that in after a drain of the old oil. Run it for ten or twenty minutes then empty it out and fill up with a good quality oil and change the filter.
After doing this my diesel LandCruisers oil stayed clear for two weeks.
"Diesel has zero lubricating or cleaning properties"
@Protec Autocare @Adam M
We use diesel @work for cleaning off old oil from engine parts.
And diesel do lubricate, sulfur in the diesel helps with this. But sulfur is removed due to bad for the environment, therefor other supplements is added to counterpart the lack of sulfur.