I did a quick fix on the ball joints pulling out of the arms first by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape, which worked for a little while. After they pulled out again I used super glue on the threads and that held pretty good for a long while.
That’s where I’m at also. I super glued them. When that fails, I’m going to use JB weld. I emailed rpm about the problem and they washed their hands of it, basically said it’s not their fault. So no replacement on my rpms that have also pulled out. I might try aluminum a-arms also but I don’t like that. Aluminum bends...
I let my boss drive my Erevo 2.0 and he somehow pulled out 2 pillow balls, I used super glue to screw them back in. I put a few drops down in the hole on the stock Traxxas arms and coated the threads of each pillow ball. It’s been 3 years and hasn’t even budged.
I've got the Revo 3.3 and a buddy has the E-Revo 2.0. I'm surprised you haven't had more issues with the rear toe links. The RPM rear arms work for the 2.0 with a small mod. I haven't been running my Revo as I need to install a new receiver and transmitter, Eliminate the optidrive, and quite possibly install better quality throttle servo. Those couple of things have kept me from using it. Anyways, the mod needed to be done to the rear arms is in the axle carriers/hubs. The bearing carrier needs opened up just so slightly to fit the larger bearings. The 2.0 uses bigger bearings than the 1.0 did. Just need a Dremel with a very small drum sanding bit and/or a step drill bit.
On the old shaft there should be a small e clip to take off to be able to slide the PIN out , I could be wrong though 🤔 it's been a while since I had to rebuild one
Good vid u have a better review on these then anyone I know, anyway I don’t have Any problems yet with striping out the front a arms might just be your model? I really don’t know I just replaced my back right top and bottom a arm and the boots in the front
Guessing you are running in the tall pushrod configuration. Lower pushrod configuration helps that. Likely limiting straps aren't limiting enough. Personally I use 2 small o-rings under piston in shock instead of straps. Limits travel and dampens top out instead of yank when it hits limit of straps. Easier on rod ends
@@bigmike1719 Cool! Back in the day when I was into speed runs I bought some carbon fiber string and wrapped the tires with it, then glued the string so it would hold. It actually worked super well! That was on asphalt thought, that wouldn't work bashing in the dirt.
My E-Revo 2.0 slows down a bit after driving it for a few minutes. I was thinking battery issues but now I’m wondering if it’s getting too hot. Does this happen normally? I’m running 6S on stock truck.
It’s getting too hot if you can’t hold your fingers on the esc or motor. My guess is you are right, you’re over heating it and you need to gear it down for what you’re doing.
@@jethro450 thanks for the reply. I will look further into the overheating issue. I was assuming if the truck was overheating it would just totally stop.
@@dhaggard79 Now that you mention it, I bet your batteries are freezing and can't release their energy very well so the truck thinks the batteries are dead. That's exactly what happens with a low battery. Truck will go to about half power first. Then if you keep driving it, it'll stop. I bet you need new batteries. I have several old batteries that act like this when it's cold.
Nice vídeo! Subscribed! I also have the same issues on my 2.0.... The RPM arms held the thread with use !? By the way I also have a channel with videos and tips about Erevo.
Your motor hold up well? I burn 2 motors, never get overheated and always stock gearing. First make a horrible sound if you get full throttle on 6S, then the sound get more louder until the motor lockup. The brand new motor last 4 to 6 months.
Man I’ve never had a problem. I’ve had a motor last for over 8 years... I’m not sure what to tell ya if your gearing is good and the motor isn’t heating up
@@rchobbyer no issues so far. We’ve had them for over a year. My only guess is you’re getting water in the motor by washing it too much... but I don’t know if you’re even doing that.
My front body mount is sooo close to the hood theres no room to slide itnin and get it locked in place. Im thinking of adding some washers to give me more space
@@CodySmiley same. I don’t let either esc or motor get over 150 on any of my stuff. Less than 120 is even better. Gear it so it stays below 120 and it’ll last forever.
We haven’t had many issues with these at all. Still have and run both of them. Having said that, I’d love to try a sledge as well as the new big one, don’t recall it’s name at the moment. But I think I’d buy two of the new Losi rc motorcycles first before I bought anything else right now. Those look super fun.
as far as servos go use savox i work at a hobby shop and everybody reccomends them the most i love traxxas but their servos are just too overpriced. Also nice trucks wish hot racing made some a arms for them, there the best for metal parts nothing else is even close i swear.
This is a bit old for a reply but, since I’m assuming you’re an arrma fan, let’s compare the “must do” hopup list for the Kraton vs Erevo. Be honest here, what’s the longer list.
Just got one and I love it. You can take this thing anywhere, now it's about finding spots worthy of its awesomeness--just happy with it.
I did a quick fix on the ball joints pulling out of the arms first by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape, which worked for a little while. After they pulled out again I used super glue on the threads and that held pretty good for a long while.
That’s where I’m at also. I super glued them. When that fails, I’m going to use JB weld. I emailed rpm about the problem and they washed their hands of it, basically said it’s not their fault. So no replacement on my rpms that have also pulled out. I might try aluminum a-arms also but I don’t like that. Aluminum bends...
I let my boss drive my Erevo 2.0 and he somehow pulled out 2 pillow balls, I used super glue to screw them back in. I put a few drops down in the hole on the stock Traxxas arms and coated the threads of each pillow ball. It’s been 3 years and hasn’t even budged.
I put a screw in the arm to hold the threaded part
Awesome video good info on the Erevo 2.0 great job thumbs up 👍
I JB weleded my ball joints and I swear those are in there for good unless they shear off lol.
Good idea. I’m gonna do that too
All you have to do is take the e clip off the one cross pin and then both cross pins just fall out of the u joint. No need to bend ears.
I've got the Revo 3.3 and a buddy has the E-Revo 2.0. I'm surprised you haven't had more issues with the rear toe links. The RPM rear arms work for the 2.0 with a small mod. I haven't been running my Revo as I need to install a new receiver and transmitter, Eliminate the optidrive, and quite possibly install better quality throttle servo. Those couple of things have kept me from using it. Anyways, the mod needed to be done to the rear arms is in the axle carriers/hubs. The bearing carrier needs opened up just so slightly to fit the larger bearings. The 2.0 uses bigger bearings than the 1.0 did. Just need a Dremel with a very small drum sanding bit and/or a step drill bit.
On the old shaft there should be a small e clip to take off to be able to slide the PIN out , I could be wrong though 🤔 it's been a while since I had to rebuild one
Good vid u have a better review on these then anyone I know, anyway I don’t have Any problems yet with striping out the front a arms might just be your model? I really don’t know I just replaced my back right top and bottom a arm and the boots in the front
Thanks for this info, cool name bruh😂
I pop rear driveshafts in the smallest jump any ideas? so far stiffer springs, straps and rear brace. thanks
Guessing you are running in the tall pushrod configuration. Lower pushrod configuration helps that. Likely limiting straps aren't limiting enough. Personally I use 2 small o-rings under piston in shock instead of straps. Limits travel and dampens top out instead of yank when it hits limit of straps. Easier on rod ends
No attention span 😅😅 that cracked me up 😂
Also want to add that I run stock gearing still, and have never had a heat issue on 15/54 on 6s. You’d have been fine on stock gearing.
Hey Jethro😎💯 dope video here lots on info for non e revo users
Kinder fuming this show came to an end😊🫡😎🔥🔥
So have you planned on running belted tires so they Dont balloon?see still factory tires.
That’s a great idea
@@jethro450 blue,red,black
@@bigmike1719 Cool! Back in the day when I was into speed runs I bought some carbon fiber string and wrapped the tires with it, then glued the string so it would hold. It actually worked super well! That was on asphalt thought, that wouldn't work bashing in the dirt.
My E-Revo 2.0 slows down a bit after driving it for a few minutes. I was thinking battery issues but now I’m wondering if it’s getting too hot. Does this happen normally? I’m running 6S on stock truck.
It’s getting too hot if you can’t hold your fingers on the esc or motor. My guess is you are right, you’re over heating it and you need to gear it down for what you’re doing.
@@jethro450 thanks for the reply. I will look further into the overheating issue. I was assuming if the truck was overheating it would just totally stop.
Didn’t think I was going nuts with it either, normal driving really. Cooler outside temps as well. Snow driving a definitely didn’t think overheating.
@@dhaggard79 Now that you mention it, I bet your batteries are freezing and can't release their energy very well so the truck thinks the batteries are dead. That's exactly what happens with a low battery. Truck will go to about half power first. Then if you keep driving it, it'll stop. I bet you need new batteries. I have several old batteries that act like this when it's cold.
Great vid, i have a Revo 3.3 so this is a great trick because I have 4 extra shafts. Nice work! 👍
Nice vídeo! Subscribed!
I also have the same issues on my 2.0....
The RPM arms held the thread with use !?
By the way I also have a channel with videos and tips about Erevo.
Your motor hold up well? I burn 2 motors, never get overheated and always stock gearing. First make a horrible sound if you get full throttle on 6S, then the sound get more louder until the motor lockup. The brand new motor last 4 to 6 months.
Man I’ve never had a problem. I’ve had a motor last for over 8 years... I’m not sure what to tell ya if your gearing is good and the motor isn’t heating up
@@jethro450 i mean the E- Revo 2.0 motors
@@rchobbyer no issues so far. We’ve had them for over a year. My only guess is you’re getting water in the motor by washing it too much... but I don’t know if you’re even doing that.
@@jethro450 the motor never get water inside. Just running at 6S
I have such a problem putting the body on....lol
My front body mount is sooo close to the hood theres no room to slide itnin and get it locked in place. Im thinking of adding some washers to give me more space
i just got the 2.0 for christmas and it is tough to put on at times but i have a harder time with my rustler 4x4
My app shows the motor temp around 250 degrees F.
That’s way way too hot. Anything over about 180-200 and you’re damaging things.
@@jethro450 and for ESC what is the max temp?
@@CodySmiley same. I don’t let either esc or motor get over 150 on any of my stuff. Less than 120 is even better. Gear it so it stays below 120 and it’ll last forever.
I have a question my e revo 2.0 is braking at very low speeds is this a common problem or what should i do
Not common. Not sure what to tell ya.
What should i do
I still strip my Rpm A Arms... I got mine used like that. Sad...
Wills Rc’s well that sucks
I just super glued that sucker back in the a arm
I thought that it could only run 2S and 3S
Awesome video thank you.
2023 update: just Sell it and buy a Traxxas Sledge, Had nothing but issues with my E-Revo 2.0
We haven’t had many issues with these at all. Still have and run both of them. Having said that, I’d love to try a sledge as well as the new big one, don’t recall it’s name at the moment. But I think I’d buy two of the new Losi rc motorcycles first before I bought anything else right now. Those look super fun.
as far as servos go use savox i work at a hobby shop and everybody reccomends them the most i love traxxas but their servos are just too overpriced. Also nice trucks wish hot racing made some a arms for them, there the best for metal parts nothing else is even close i swear.
Agreed. I have lots of savox servos in other things and none have ever failed me
Unnecessary jab at millennials at the end.
The best tip for the revo's is don't buy them they aren't durable and you have to buy every hop up imaginable to run them
This is a bit old for a reply but, since I’m assuming you’re an arrma fan, let’s compare the “must do” hopup list for the Kraton vs Erevo. Be honest here, what’s the longer list.