Thanks so much for your knowledge on changing the belt on your L130 mower, I have the same mower except mine is the L120. My belt slipped off of the back of the transmission and I didn’t know how to fix it and this video helped me to figure it out with no issues.
Thanks for the video. Recently my mower stopped moving fwd/rev, due to transmission belt perished & come undone off pully and jamming. Before attempting on the replacement job, I watched this video twice. After reading the comment about oil getting into the air filter, I drained all the fluids, as I need the general servicing done at the same time. One mistake I made was, after turning the mower sideways, there was a delay of a day for getting the spare belt. Then the Christmas came and following day boxing day came. All this time the mower was lying sideways. When I resumed the job, I noticed bit of transmission oil has leaked (through the gear box vent, perhaps). So moral of the story is "Do Not Leave the Machine lying sideways for a prolong length of time" I managed to top up the lost oil, through the filling cap (that was a mission too). But in the end it was all sweet, machine runs well now. Despite my draining oil before the task, still the remaining bit of oil must have found its way into the cylinder, that made smoke when started the motor, and smoking went off after about 5-10 minutes. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for your video on tilting the tractor, my 21 year old JD L110 gave up the tranny belt ghost a couple days ago, smelt burn rubber coming from the tranny and figured it was the belt. Ordered new belt and idley pulleys and was able to tilt the tractor over about 45 degrees resting on the side of my utility trailer. Worked Great !! No oil or gasoline spill !!
Thank you very much. I found that if you engage the brake and lock it you are able to put the belt into the idler pulleys very easily without wood spacers. Found this out by accident. Great video. First time rider owner and had no idea what to do. Took less than an hour including removing the deck. Thanks.
Thank you for making/posting this video. I just replaced the steering gears for my neighbor and he noticed this belt was worn so he bought a new one, called me to tell me it went around the steering shaft. Are you kidding, the engineers now days are clueless! I wasn't very impressed with the steering design but this design is a joke, glad I have a Kubota! Anyway, thanks again, placing tractor on it's side and knowing the process in advance is great!!!
Ok I did it your way but I did drain the oil and gas. Much much easier and faster Here’s the rub I bought OEM GX2006 belt But it wasn’t Johnn Deere I found out. Mower ran great for 1/2 hour then slowed down and wouldn’t climb any grade. It was the new belt. Got it off Amazon. Bought from John Deere a new GX20006 and runs like a champ. Also Changed both idlers pulleys New spring tensioner Drained the old tranny fluid out with a hand pump. Put 2 quarts of full synthetic 20W-50 oil in it and I swear it runs better then new. It’s pretty easy to get to the drain cap with the deck off you don’t have to remove the tranny. It took all of 20 min to do it. I had 400 hrs on the mower with no oil change. It’s suppose to be done every 200 hrs. If your John Deere is running slow or not climbing hills this could be the reason. So quick recap. Change the drive belt Change the 2 plastic pulleys Change the tensioner spring Drain and change the tranny fluid with 20W-50 full synthetic motor oil Most important Only use John Deere OEM parts It’s not worth saving a couple of bucks and having to do it again. The company that sold me the fake OEM belt was GRIZZLY BELTS. They lied so avoid them like the plague. This guys way of doing it is so much faster the crawling under there especially with how hard some of these nuts are locked on.
I just finished doing this because my belt fell off. I rolled it over on it side like this video, but i didnt take out any screws or pullies i simply used a jack. I put it under the pully and pumped it up and it reduced the tension enough to slip it back on. Find the two pullies that are near eachother and with ur hand and slight pressure push and pull figure out which one goes up with the spring and which one will go down simultaneously lower. Then just use the jack to prop up the up going one and slide the belt back on with a prybar on the front pully
Thank you for the video. I am having a tough time removing the 2 pulleys. They seem to be seized in there. Sprayed with PB Blaster and let soak for at least an hour. Still won't budge.
Thanks, I had to force gear off steering shaft with a tie-rod removal tool. I am not sure if it was a factory thing or someone else wedged the gear on upside down or what. Once Tie-Rod tool removed gear I looked closely and the lube I had applied penetrated totally and no apparent rust. Beware!
Thanks for the video, even though I have a different model but same L100 series, worked perfectly for me. Appreciate you taking the time to explain everything!
I walk out everyday and look at my John deere D110 up on a Jack stand. 29 hours on new machine from lowes in atascacita tx and the transmission failed. Lowes and John deere were both kind enough to not back the product they produced and sold.
Man, I thought the Troy Bilt belt replacement was aggravating! This model of John Deere is more difficult. Lawn Tractor belt replacement is a regular maintenance item. Someone in the lawn Tractor industry should have the common sense to simplify the task!
Got wood, did you put that starter on your machine or was it that way when you got it? My L120 starter died and I'm not one to put another sub-par piece back on..
@@Mike-su8si oil seeps out of the tuff torq k46 breather valve if on its side. Not my tractor, pour sand in the cylinders if you want. I'm pointing out that you could damage your hydro if oil drains out of the hydro unit through the breather valve resulting in $350+ worth of failure.
Drive started slipping today in the middle of mowing. Took the deck off, and the belt has tension when the park brake is off. Not sure if it's enough tension, but everything seems intact. This is a 16 y/o L118. I've never replaced the drive belt, but it doesn't seem cracked or chunking.
It is probably time to replace it. You can try cleaning belt with soapy water and see if you get any grip back. Also; these transmissions go bad too. Most were not designed to be serviced; ie change the oil, but you can take the transmission off; turn it upside down to drain fluid out of the vent and refill with 30W oil to get the last life out of it.
DO NOT TIP YOUR TRACTOR ONTO IT'S SIDE - my 115 has a B&S engine and the crankcase oil spilled into my air intake/carburetor, and oil leaked into the engine cylinder. It took me more time to fix this than it took to change the belt.
Read dialogue below, you don't have to tip it all the way over; and need to give time for the oil to settle back to crankcase with gravity. (Or drain oil and do oil change after if it is time for maintenance. ) Putting it on the side is just for convenience, 30 degree tilt like mowing a ditch angle is sufficient.
there're 2 screws that need to be loosened and or one taken out to get the belt on the motor pulley because of the belt guards. didn't mention that. good video overall. New belt seems to be a little loose. Is there an adjustment for that? Thank you
While you're under there, make sure you check the idler pulleys. I had a groove worn in my flat idler that was all the way down to the bearing! It's a lousy design and the belt doesn't have enough wrap around the pulleys as they should. Instead of the flat idler pulley spinning, the belt just skids across it and wears it out, since it's only plastic. It's a terrible design and it has been perpetrated for a loooong time on many models.
Hey, Thanks for the video!Can I ask your technique for laying the tractor on its side and did you have to run all the gas out of it (and/or drain the oil) before you did?I'd love to change my drive belt and pulleys, but as a novice without a lift or floor jack I just worry that gas and oil would not only get all over, but into places it shouldn't inside the mower.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks again!
If you scroll down through the comments this has been addressed. Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair. With the mower deck off it's really easy to push the tractor up on its side and perhaps you could just put blocks underneath the tires. It is possible to do it with the tires on the floor it's just easier to visualize on the side. If you tilt the mower too far or leave it that way for too long some oil will get up around the exhaust valves and when you first crank the mower up, it's going to smoke some, and then clear up.
Is there any adjustment that can be made to simply tighten the belt? I've had my belt for 8 years and it visibly looks ok, it's just loose and started slipping.
Not to my knowledge. Maybe idler pulley spring losing tension, and the older a belt gets, it wears and loses grip, like bald tires have no traction. Try wiping belt down with soap and water to clean it and look for oil leaks that got on it.
My belt is really loose, is it supposed to be? I wasn't sure if it is supposed to tighten when you push on on the foot throttle or if it is supposed to be tight even when idling. mine does not drive at all, it was working fine when I last used it
It should be loose at idle with parking brake on. If it is loose under power and driving something is wrong. If recently replaced, and not pulling in gear, it could be the wrong belt, too big, spring off the idler pulley, or not run the correct pulley path.
I had half a tank of fuel and there was some leakage. I would empty it. More importantly, drain the oil. Mine spent a day on its side because the dealer sold me the wrong belt. After struggling to fit a belt that would never fit and turning the engine in the process, a lot of engine oil leaked onto the floor. Not only that, it entered the air filter backwards, ran into the carby and into the combustion chamber. The inlet valve must have been open. I had to remove the plug and flush the oil from the carb and combustion chamber by turning the engine over, then flush it with petrol and repeat. Surprisingly, the engine started easily, though a bit smoky for a while, as you would expect.
@@waynetelfer6474 Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair
No, just the spring tension. If new one is too loose, it is probably the wrong belt or run the wrong path. Or spring tension is too light. Worn out spring.
I believe that's because clutch is held disengaged from drive belt. Not sure how that effects the change of belt directly under the engine. Are you saying it helps with this repair, to have parking brake engaged before tipping over? Thanks
@@joshuawilcox1322 exactly my point. jacked mine up and looked at it last night. when you set the parking brake, you have to fully depress clutch/brake pedal. that removes all tension/engagement from the drive pulley. still have to move steering wheel up though. Mine doesnt have a fan over the transmission. seen two kinds of possible fans and i have none. wierd!
The shape of the pulley surface, flat, or V-groove, relates to which side of the belt contacts that particular pulley. Make sure you have the correct pulley, order, orientation of belt, correct belt, make sure all pulleys are able to spin and the belt tensioner and spring are applied correctly. Correct trans drive pulley and not mower blade drive pulley. Make sure mower drive clutch wire is plugged in. This is not a question and answer site, but that is how to problem solve the issue. Good luck.
@@gotwood2799 Thanks for the information. It's not pinpoint accurate for every situation but atleast people learn new things. My problem was a pull was bad, broke into 3 separate pieces and coated me a new belt.
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
What's it mean if my drive belt is hitting the fan blade ??? Is the belt just loose n need to b replaced?? R do I have another problem?? The belt seems to b loose
If u want to replace a transmission just buy the d110 and u dont even have to wait long. Mine lasted 29 hours and it failed. Oh and btw if u buy from lowes and it's a jd get ready for the shaft. They will build it and sell it but standing by the product "YA OK" WHATEVER!!!!
Butch Sweeney you were probably doing wheelies and being rough on your lawnmower. All of the John Deere tractors are made in the USA and guaranteed for 20 years. Lowe’s also has the best service ever created and you must have been rude to them.
John Deere intentionally makes things harder for the end user to service.they use non standard sizes for EVERYTHING and then hide those sizes so you can't compare and find alternatives easily in the hopes the end-user believes JD parts are magic and worth their highly inflated prices. However all of the parts are the same as everything else,just gotta put in the time to find those alternatives. Heck the $60 JD dech belt on my 2046 squealed like a MOFO in high grass cause it's about 1/2-1" too long even tho that's what it calls for!!!! i got sick of that, measured it ,took off about an inch and found a cheapo on eBay for $8 that doesn't squeal!! Same with the dech spindles.i believe JD wanted $80 each,yet after doing some digging all the old ones needed were 2 easy to replace standard sizes bearings that the local autoparts had for $3 eash. So $6 per spindle vs $80 humm that's a tough choice.
@@talclipse - What do you mean by "non-standard sizes"? The nuts and bolts are all metric. If you mean parts, they're standard between models. Not sure what else you'd expect.
@@Replicant9900 length of belts, pulley sizes,wheel hub sizes ECT.when I got my first deer and was doing some repairs on it,I called around to a local tractor supply and told them the sizes of belts I needed.i was laughed at and immediately he said that's for a deer and the only place that would have it is the dealer,and he was right! I couldn't find those sizes anywhere but the dealer and they wanted $70 for a deck belt which turned out to be a tad too large even tho it was the listed part number and brand new from the dealer it squealed like a mofo.so I measured it and went with a belt on eBay that was 1-2" shorter and only costed $15!! now that I have a Craftsman with a even bigger deck I can find it's belt EVERYWHERE for $10-20. John deer intentionally uses oddball sizes and hides information to keep people like me from finding parts at competitors! That is if you can even figure out what size you need. Another example is the deck spindles! JD wanted I think it was $200 per spindle,when all it needed was 2 bearings that are super easy to knock out and they only costed $5 each at a auto parts shop.NO WHERE was those bearings listed as replaceable nor a part number for them,why? Because they want to bend you over and force you to buy the whole spindle at a HUGE mark up. Again I checked on my gt5000 and brand new spindle is only $50 and it uses the same bearings so I can replace those however Sears actually lists the bearings and their sizes.. Again with a hydrostatic tranny,JD says it's not servicable however it is and if you don't change its fluid it will burn up in about 5 years and again JD wants over $1000 for a new one. I understand making money,but the tactics they use should be considered criminal and their stuff is NO BETTER then any other the other brands,in fact they are all nearly the same outside of what JD has changed as I listed above. If you own a deer then you have been and will be screwed over in the future!!
Yes. Lots and lots of prying (carefully so as to not destroy the threaded post) and rust penetrant to slowly break it free. My small pulley was nearly seized up which explains why my belt was destroyed. Cant recommend enough that if you are engaged in this belt replacement project, go ahead and replace those pulleys. VERY inexpensive maintenence item and you wont regret not doing it. Also, my LA130 doesnt have the guard in the rear like his does. I have a single guard post that is threaded into a hole on top of the rear trans box. Use a 5/8ths open end wrench and just remove the post completely. Once you have the new belt on replace the post in the hole and tighten. A couple of other items I learned along the way, feed the new belt from the front to the back. You cant install it otherwise. The clutch assembly is too large on the front once you have it installed in the rear. So install the front first. The fan blades in the rear are very flexible and will bend out of the way. Also, I had a guard around the front pulley above the clutch assembly that he didnt show here. Just loosen the two bolts holding the guard in place and tighten once installed. This video was incredibly helpful and I hope these extra comments add value. Definitely a DIY job for anyone with some basic tools. (Make sure the mower is very secure when tipped over!)
Thanks. the belt I purchased came with two new idler pulleys. I ended up putting the mower on jackstands and got under in and applied pb blaster and pounded the pulleys with a rubber mallet. Took a while but the job itself was a piece of cake. Probably at least $200 at a mower shop
@@GotWood Hey I used your method but got oil in the air filter and all in the exhaust it seems. Smokes like hell when it warms up and sprayed oil out the exhaust at first. Did you have any issues like this when you made this video? Thanks
@@cameltoast Got Wood 6 months ago Turn mower on left side and that should not happen. Give oil an hour to settle back in bottom of motor before starting.
@@gotwood2799 yup left side, starter up, sat for a week right side up, might've left it tilted over for too long or I have other issues, anyway, thanks for the video.
@@cameltoast May have tilted it too far on side or have leaking valves in head. Mine has smoked on start up since brand new. Design flaw, or machining issue in assembly??? Tilt no more than 45 degrees would be best. Different year models have minor changes over the years that may come in to play.
Physically lift it, or floor jack and put blocks underneath. If you are concerned about the transmission itself; you have to unbolt everything as if removing the transmission; turn it upside down and drain it. Try a new belt first, unless you can tell the transmission is not pulling. .
I agree, you don't have to turn it on its side; I just feel it is faster and easier if you don't have ramps, a lift, jack stands or if you have difficulty laying down and reaching in an awkward way. You can do it without taking deck off, but it would be very slow and annoyingly difficult. Turning it on the side is the best way to visualize everything for video teaching purposes and speed without advanced tools.
@@gotwood2799 You are 100% correct Got Wood as it's much easier to access it leaning as just changed drive belt on Scott's John Deer s1642 and I stood it up straight vertical on back wheels cuz saw it done that way here on UA-cam! BUT so wish I had seen YOUR video as never thought of a side lean versus vertical! Brilliant idea and video here so next time it's a side lean! (and always with the carb side up as you did). Thanls
!!!!!!!DONT ever turn your mower on its side like this, the oil will spill out everywhere (air filter, piston cavity, carb etc.) and it will be a MESS to clean up and start it again!
Take the time to read instructions below regarding your comment. It matters which side you turn it up on and how far. The angle is no more than safely mowing the side of a hill. You went too far.
@@cristomario9118 It is just bad manners and inaccurate information for you to make a critical exclamation like this on someone else's video. If you have a better way; please make a video and share it with us all to make the job easier. Please be creative, and share. Don't cause confusion because you did not read the content that has addressed this issue.
Cristo Mario thanks brother. Got wood can't own up to a mistake. This should have been in the video you tube is where people come to watch a video. Admit you made a mistake Got Wood. I watched this crap and the same thing happened to me. That is CRITICAL. ITS TAKING EVERYTHING IN ME TO NOT SAY SOMETHING WORSE. hey Cristo Mario. What all will need to be done now.
The orientation of the biology too the trivial..... Blah blah blah! Just make sure that the belt number is too the outside of the belt. Not the inside.
It would be cool if you have something insightful to add for other viewers' benefit, if you could be so kind, and write it in such a way as to be a useful tip.
Regarding TILT OF TRACTOR: If you scroll down through the comments this has been addressed. Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair. With the mower deck off it's really easy to push the tractor up on its side and perhaps you could just put blocks underneath the tires. It is possible to do it with the tires on the floor it's just easier to visualize on the side. If you tilt the mower too far or leave it that way for too long some oil will get up around the exhaust valves and when you first crank the mower up, it's going to smoke some, and then clear up.
The belt model number is printed on the outside, flat side, of the belt, not the narrower V-groove side. The shape of the pulley surface, flat, or V-groove, relates to which side of the belt contacts that particular pulley. I know many people view these videos on their phones, but please make sure to read the comment section for added valuable tips.
Thanks so much for your knowledge on changing the belt on your L130 mower, I have the same mower except mine is the L120. My belt slipped off of the back of the transmission and I didn’t know how to fix it and this video helped me to figure it out with no issues.
Thanks for the video.
Recently my mower stopped moving fwd/rev, due to transmission belt perished & come undone off pully and jamming. Before attempting on the replacement job, I watched this video twice.
After reading the comment about oil getting into the air filter, I drained all the fluids, as I need the general servicing done at the same time.
One mistake I made was, after turning the mower sideways, there was a delay of a day for getting the spare belt. Then the Christmas came and following day boxing day came. All this time the mower was lying sideways. When I resumed the job, I noticed bit of transmission oil has leaked (through the gear box vent, perhaps).
So moral of the story is "Do Not Leave the Machine lying sideways for a prolong length of time"
I managed to top up the lost oil, through the filling cap (that was a mission too).
But in the end it was all sweet, machine runs well now.
Despite my draining oil before the task, still the remaining bit of oil must have found its way into the cylinder, that made smoke when started the motor, and smoking went off after about 5-10 minutes. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for your video on tilting the tractor, my 21 year old JD L110 gave up the tranny belt ghost a couple days ago, smelt burn rubber coming from the tranny and figured it was the belt. Ordered new belt and idley pulleys and was able to tilt the tractor over about 45 degrees resting on the side of my utility trailer. Worked Great !! No oil or gasoline spill !!
Thank you very much. I found that if you engage the brake and lock it you are able to put the belt into the idler pulleys very easily without wood spacers. Found this out by accident. Great video. First time rider owner and had no idea what to do. Took less than an hour including removing the deck. Thanks.
Thank you for making/posting this video. I just replaced the steering gears for my neighbor and he noticed this belt was worn so he bought a new one, called me to tell me it went around the steering shaft. Are you kidding, the engineers now days are clueless! I wasn't very impressed with the steering design but this design is a joke, glad I have a Kubota! Anyway, thanks again, placing tractor on it's side and knowing the process in advance is great!!!
Ok I did it your way but I did drain the oil and gas.
Much much easier and faster
Here’s the rub
I bought OEM GX2006 belt
But it wasn’t Johnn Deere I found out. Mower ran great for 1/2 hour then slowed down and wouldn’t climb any grade.
It was the new belt. Got it off Amazon. Bought from John Deere a new GX20006 and runs like a champ. Also
Changed both idlers pulleys
New spring tensioner
Drained the old tranny fluid out with a hand pump. Put 2 quarts of full synthetic 20W-50 oil in it and I swear it runs better then new. It’s pretty easy to get to the drain cap with the deck off you don’t have to remove the tranny. It took all of 20 min to do it. I had 400 hrs on the mower with no oil change. It’s suppose to be done every 200 hrs. If your John Deere is running slow or not climbing hills this could be the reason.
So quick recap.
Change the drive belt
Change the 2 plastic pulleys
Change the tensioner spring
Drain and change the tranny fluid with 20W-50 full synthetic motor oil
Most important
Only use John Deere OEM parts
It’s not worth saving a couple of bucks and having to do it again.
The company that sold me the fake OEM belt was GRIZZLY BELTS. They lied so avoid them like the plague.
This guys way of doing it is so much faster the crawling under there especially with how hard some of these nuts are locked on.
Thanks for this. I was wondering how to get the belt around the steering column. This was really helpfull
Great tips it saved a lot of time but, put the belt in the front then the back.
Thanks for adding the suggestion.
Thank you, I did not know how the bracket went back into the clutch assembly as I did not see how it went when I pulled it off. Very helpful
I just finished doing this because my belt fell off. I rolled it over on it side like this video, but i didnt take out any screws or pullies i simply used a jack. I put it under the pully and pumped it up and it reduced the tension enough to slip it back on. Find the two pullies that are near eachother and with ur hand and slight pressure push and pull figure out which one goes up with the spring and which one will go down simultaneously lower. Then just use the jack to prop up the up going one and slide the belt back on with a prybar on the front pully
What's the clutch for
Thank you for the video. I am having a tough time removing the 2 pulleys. They seem to be seized in there. Sprayed with PB Blaster and let soak for at least an hour. Still won't budge.
Wish u would have showed it as u did it!
Thanks, I had to force gear off steering shaft with a tie-rod removal tool. I am not sure if it was a factory thing or someone else wedged the gear on upside down or what. Once Tie-Rod tool removed gear I looked closely and the lube I had applied penetrated totally and no apparent rust. Beware!
Thanks for the video, even though I have a different model but same L100 series, worked perfectly for me. Appreciate you taking the time to explain everything!
Setting the parking break does the same as the block of wood he used.
I walk out everyday and look at my John deere D110 up on a Jack stand. 29 hours on new machine from lowes in atascacita tx and the transmission failed. Lowes and John deere were both kind enough to not back the product they produced and sold.
Man, I thought the Troy Bilt belt replacement was aggravating! This model of John Deere is more difficult. Lawn Tractor belt replacement is a regular maintenance item. Someone in the lawn Tractor industry should have the common sense to simplify the task!
Excellent video. Very informative. Many thanks from South West France 🇫🇷
Je vous en prie. I'm glad you found it helpful.
This video is intended for a homeowner with common sense level mechanical skills but without a lift.
Got wood, did you put that starter on your machine or was it that way when you got it? My L120 starter died and I'm not one to put another sub-par piece back on..
Yeah a good thought on what I'll be doing to the L110 it's how I do my craftsmen anyhow it works cause i sold my jack lift
That's a great way to fuck up your hydro by losing fluid through the breather.
@@mightymightymightyman199 I don't see how
@@Mike-su8si oil seeps out of the tuff torq k46 breather valve if on its side. Not my tractor, pour sand in the cylinders if you want. I'm pointing out that you could damage your hydro if oil drains out of the hydro unit through the breather valve resulting in $350+ worth of failure.
This was very helpful, I installed the new drive belt in 45 because of this vid. Thanks a bunch.
Drive started slipping today in the middle of mowing. Took the deck off, and the belt has tension when the park brake is off. Not sure if it's enough tension, but everything seems intact. This is a 16 y/o L118. I've never replaced the drive belt, but it doesn't seem cracked or chunking.
It is probably time to replace it. You can try cleaning belt with soapy water and see if you get any grip back. Also; these transmissions go bad too. Most were not designed to be serviced; ie change the oil, but you can take the transmission off; turn it upside down to drain fluid out of the vent and refill with 30W oil to get the last life out of it.
@@gotwood2799 This transmission (Tuff Torq k46) uses 10w50 full synthetic preferably their oil.
Very great video! Helpful and detailed descriptions of process.
You don't need any wood blocks, just put the parking brake on.
Did you have to remove the clutch assembly or did you start in the front there and slide the belt over the assembly and into the clutch pulley? Thanks
DO NOT TIP YOUR TRACTOR ONTO IT'S SIDE - my 115 has a B&S engine and the crankcase oil spilled into my air intake/carburetor, and oil leaked into the engine cylinder. It took me more time to fix this than it took to change the belt.
Read dialogue below, you don't have to tip it all the way over; and need to give time for the oil to settle back to crankcase with gravity. (Or drain oil and do oil change after if it is time for maintenance. ) Putting it on the side is just for convenience, 30 degree tilt like mowing a ditch angle is sufficient.
there're 2 screws that need to be loosened and or one taken out to get the belt on the motor pulley because of the belt guards. didn't mention that. good video overall. New belt seems to be a little loose. Is there an adjustment for that? Thank you
See if your spring has enough tension in it. Otherwise you may have the wrong belt, too big.
Did it smell like burning rubber, before the repair or just routine fix.
Think I may have a slow bearing on 1 pulley.
Great vid, thanx
I had major belt slippage on mime
While you're under there, make sure you check the idler pulleys. I had a groove worn in my flat idler that was all the way down to the bearing! It's a lousy design and the belt doesn't have enough wrap around the pulleys as they should. Instead of the flat idler pulley spinning, the belt just skids across it and wears it out, since it's only plastic. It's a terrible design and it has been perpetrated for a loooong time on many models.
I replaced mine and the belt started smoking. When I looked the belt was chewed up. What causes that? Why is the belt so loose? Anyway to tighten?
Thanks for the video. Very instructive!
I'm glad you appreciated that I took the time to video and post this.
Hey, Thanks for the video!Can I ask your technique for laying the tractor on its side and did you have to run all the gas out of it (and/or drain the oil) before you did?I'd love to change my drive belt and pulleys, but as a novice without a lift or floor jack I just worry that gas and oil would not only get all over, but into places it shouldn't inside the mower.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks again!
If you scroll down through the comments this has been addressed. Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair. With the mower deck off it's really easy to push the tractor up on its side and perhaps you could just put blocks underneath the tires. It is possible to do it with the tires on the floor it's just easier to visualize on the side. If you tilt the mower too far or leave it that way for too long some oil will get up around the exhaust valves and when you first crank the mower up, it's going to smoke some, and then clear up.
@@gotwood2799 Thanks so muchď Extremely helpful.
Taryl put a plastic bag over gas tank threads and then tightened, no spill.
Can I put on the side with full tank of gas?
Thank you so much for this.
How do you know this is the problem? My JD not pulling up hills after it gets hot ? Thank you
Check the fan on top of transmission. You Tube it.
Thanks so much for the vid helped me alot
Thanks for your help, worked out good!
Is there any adjustment that can be made to simply tighten the belt? I've had my belt for 8 years and it visibly looks ok, it's just loose and started slipping.
Not to my knowledge. Maybe idler pulley spring losing tension, and the older a belt gets, it wears and loses grip, like bald tires have no traction. Try wiping belt down with soap and water to clean it and look for oil leaks that got on it.
My belt is really loose, is it supposed to be? I wasn't sure if it is supposed to tighten when you push on on the foot throttle or if it is supposed to be tight even when idling. mine does not drive at all, it was working fine when I last used it
It should be loose at idle with parking brake on. If it is loose under power and driving something is wrong. If recently replaced, and not pulling in gear, it could be the wrong belt, too big, spring off the idler pulley, or not run the correct pulley path.
Got Wood thanks for your reply, I got it working now, thanks for your helpful video
Did you have to drain the gas, or will it not leak when the tractor is on its side
Left side is best. You can drain gas or oil as you wish, but I do not,
Got Wood remove battery if it is not sealed as the acid might leak out
Does fuel need to be drained first? I'm ok with tipping it over but curious about fuel leakage through the cap. Thanks
I had half a tank of fuel and there was some leakage. I would empty it. More importantly, drain the oil. Mine spent a day on its side because the dealer sold me the wrong belt. After struggling to fit a belt that would never fit and turning the engine in the process, a lot of engine oil leaked onto the floor. Not only that, it entered the air filter backwards, ran into the carby and into the combustion chamber. The inlet valve must have been open. I had to remove the plug and flush the oil from the carb and combustion chamber by turning the engine over, then flush it with petrol and repeat. Surprisingly, the engine started easily, though a bit smoky for a while, as you would expect.
@@waynetelfer6474 Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair
Is there an adjustment for the drive belt?? On those models??
No, just the spring tension. If new one is too loose, it is probably the wrong belt or run the wrong path. Or spring tension is too light. Worn out spring.
If you turn on the parking brake, it loosens the belt.
I believe that's because clutch is held disengaged from drive belt. Not sure how that effects the change of belt directly under the engine. Are you saying it helps with this repair, to have parking brake engaged before tipping over? Thanks
@@sgtduckyboy64 No, when you put on the parking brake it loosens up the belt itself and it's a lot easier to take off
@@joshuawilcox1322 exactly my point. jacked mine up and looked at it last night. when you set the parking brake, you have to fully depress clutch/brake pedal. that removes all tension/engagement from the drive pulley. still have to move steering wheel up though. Mine doesnt have a fan over the transmission. seen two kinds of possible fans and i have none. wierd!
Yes, apply the parking brake and it takes the tension off the transmission belt and makes access to pulleys easier.
Only hydrostatic transmission has the fan.
Thank you
My belt gets stuck in the pulley under the engine why is that happening?
The shape of the pulley surface, flat, or V-groove, relates to which side of the belt contacts that particular pulley. Make sure you have the correct pulley, order, orientation of belt, correct belt, make sure all pulleys are able to spin and the belt tensioner and spring are applied correctly. Correct trans drive pulley and not mower blade drive pulley. Make sure mower drive clutch wire is plugged in. This is not a question and answer site, but that is how to problem solve the issue. Good luck.
@@gotwood2799 Thanks for the information. It's not pinpoint accurate for every situation but atleast people learn new things. My problem was a pull was bad, broke into 3 separate pieces and coated me a new belt.
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
What's it mean if my drive belt is hitting the fan blade ??? Is the belt just loose n need to b replaced?? R do I have another problem?? The belt seems to b loose
Check to see it is in pulley groves, and also there is a spring for tensioning it
@@gotwood2799 where would what spring b located
Love this
If u want to replace a transmission just buy the d110 and u dont even have to wait long. Mine lasted 29 hours and it failed. Oh and btw if u buy from lowes and it's a jd get ready for the shaft. They will build it and sell it but standing by the product "YA OK" WHATEVER!!!!
Butch Sweeney you were probably doing wheelies and being rough on your lawnmower. All of the John Deere tractors are made in the USA and guaranteed for 20 years. Lowe’s also has the best service ever created and you must have been rude to them.
@@fishgaming8599 nope no wheelies and nope no help from either.
hey those 2 idler pulleys are bad. They should not move like that when they're loosen up like that on that bolt
Bob Kriescher ya they do when you loosen they up most the way cause they fall off the collar they fit up into.
is it the same for my TL 160 ?
Probably similar
Thanyou
Mine doesn't have a clutch someone's put a regular pulley on
GD!!! John Deere doesn't know the meaning of SIMPLICITY!!!
John Deere intentionally makes things harder for the end user to service.they use non standard sizes for EVERYTHING and then hide those sizes so you can't compare and find alternatives easily in the hopes the end-user believes JD parts are magic and worth their highly inflated prices.
However all of the parts are the same as everything else,just gotta put in the time to find those alternatives. Heck the $60 JD dech belt on my 2046 squealed like a MOFO in high grass cause it's about 1/2-1" too long even tho that's what it calls for!!!!
i got sick of that, measured it ,took off about an inch and found a cheapo on eBay for $8 that doesn't squeal!!
Same with the dech spindles.i believe JD wanted $80 each,yet after doing some digging all the old ones needed were 2 easy to replace standard sizes bearings that the local autoparts had for $3 eash. So $6 per spindle vs $80 humm that's a tough choice.
@@talclipse - What do you mean by "non-standard sizes"? The nuts and bolts are all metric. If you mean parts, they're standard between models. Not sure what else you'd expect.
@@Replicant9900 length of belts, pulley sizes,wheel hub sizes ECT.when I got my first deer and was doing some repairs on it,I called around to a local tractor supply and told them the sizes of belts I needed.i was laughed at and immediately he said that's for a deer and the only place that would have it is the dealer,and he was right!
I couldn't find those sizes anywhere but the dealer and they wanted $70 for a deck belt which turned out to be a tad too large even tho it was the listed part number and brand new from the dealer it squealed like a mofo.so I measured it and went with a belt on eBay that was 1-2" shorter and only costed $15!!
now that I have a Craftsman with a even bigger deck I can find it's belt EVERYWHERE for $10-20.
John deer intentionally uses oddball sizes and hides information to keep people like me from finding parts at competitors! That is if you can even figure out what size you need.
Another example is the deck spindles! JD wanted I think it was $200 per spindle,when all it needed was 2 bearings that are super easy to knock out and they only costed $5 each at a auto parts shop.NO WHERE was those bearings listed as replaceable nor a part number for them,why? Because they want to bend you over and force you to buy the whole spindle at a HUGE mark up.
Again I checked on my gt5000 and brand new spindle is only $50 and it uses the same bearings so I can replace those however Sears actually lists the bearings and their sizes..
Again with a hydrostatic tranny,JD says it's not servicable however it is and if you don't change its fluid it will burn up in about 5 years and again JD wants over $1000 for a new one.
I understand making money,but the tactics they use should be considered criminal and their stuff is NO BETTER then any other the other brands,in fact they are all nearly the same outside of what JD has changed as I listed above.
If you own a deer then you have been and will be screwed over in the future!!
anyone else have their idler pulleys seemingly welded on? took me 30 min to get them damn things to come loose.
Yes. Lots and lots of prying (carefully so as to not destroy the threaded post) and rust penetrant to slowly break it free. My small pulley was nearly seized up which explains why my belt was destroyed. Cant recommend enough that if you are engaged in this belt replacement project, go ahead and replace those pulleys. VERY inexpensive maintenence item and you wont regret not doing it.
Also, my LA130 doesnt have the guard in the rear like his does. I have a single guard post that is threaded into a hole on top of the rear trans box. Use a 5/8ths open end wrench and just remove the post completely. Once you have the new belt on replace the post in the hole and tighten.
A couple of other items I learned along the way, feed the new belt from the front to the back. You cant install it otherwise. The clutch assembly is too large on the front once you have it installed in the rear. So install the front first. The fan blades in the rear are very flexible and will bend out of the way. Also, I had a guard around the front pulley above the clutch assembly that he didnt show here. Just loosen the two bolts holding the guard in place and tighten once installed.
This video was incredibly helpful and I hope these extra comments add value. Definitely a DIY job for anyone with some basic tools. (Make sure the mower is very secure when tipped over!)
Thanks. the belt I purchased came with two new idler pulleys. I ended up putting the mower on jackstands and got under in and applied pb blaster and pounded the pulleys with a rubber mallet. Took a while but the job itself was a piece of cake. Probably at least $200 at a mower shop
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing the pulleys at the same time as belt. If the pulleys are seized up, that will cause friction on belt and destroy it.
Not no drive belt I said rod from forward and reverse pedal to transmission not drive belt
I tried this method and oil immediately came running out of the engine. 🤦🏾♂️
Turn mower on left side and that should not happen. Give oil an hour to settle back in bottom of motor before starting.
@@GotWood Hey I used your method but got oil in the air filter and all in the exhaust it seems. Smokes like hell when it warms up and sprayed oil out the exhaust at first. Did you have any issues like this when you made this video? Thanks
@@cameltoast
Got Wood
6 months ago
Turn mower on left side and that should not happen. Give oil an hour to settle back in bottom of motor before starting.
@@gotwood2799 yup left side, starter up, sat for a week right side up, might've left it tilted over for too long or I have other issues, anyway, thanks for the video.
@@cameltoast May have tilted it too far on side or have leaking valves in head. Mine has smoked on start up since brand new. Design flaw, or machining issue in assembly??? Tilt no more than 45 degrees would be best. Different year models have minor changes over the years that may come in to play.
How do you tip it over?
Physically lift it, or floor jack and put blocks underneath. If you are concerned about the transmission itself; you have to unbolt everything as if removing the transmission; turn it upside down and drain it. Try a new belt first, unless you can tell the transmission is not pulling. .
I really don't think it needs to be on its side.
I agree, you don't have to turn it on its side; I just feel it is faster and easier if you don't have ramps, a lift, jack stands or if you have difficulty laying down and reaching in an awkward way. You can do it without taking deck off, but it would be very slow and annoyingly difficult. Turning it on the side is the best way to visualize everything for video teaching purposes and speed without advanced tools.
@@gotwood2799 You are 100% correct Got Wood as it's much easier to access it leaning as just changed drive belt on Scott's John Deer s1642 and I stood it up straight vertical on back wheels cuz saw it done that way here on UA-cam! BUT so wish I had seen YOUR video as never thought of a side lean versus vertical! Brilliant idea and video here so next time it's a side lean! (and always with the carb side up as you did). Thanls
!!!!!!!DONT ever turn your mower on its side like this, the oil will spill out everywhere (air filter, piston cavity, carb etc.) and it will be a MESS to clean up and start it again!
Take the time to read instructions below regarding your comment. It matters which side you turn it up on and how far. The angle is no more than safely mowing the side of a hill. You went too far.
Got Wood luckly i would never do it this way, i am advising someone who might try it it is not worth the trouble
@@cristomario9118 It is just bad manners and inaccurate information for you to make a critical exclamation like this on someone else's video. If you have a better way; please make a video and share it with us all to make the job easier. Please be creative, and share. Don't cause confusion because you did not read the content that has addressed this issue.
Cristo Mario thanks brother. Got wood can't own up to a mistake. This should have been in the video you tube is where people come to watch a video. Admit you made a mistake Got Wood. I watched this crap and the same thing happened to me. That is CRITICAL. ITS TAKING EVERYTHING IN ME TO NOT SAY SOMETHING WORSE. hey Cristo Mario. What all will need to be done now.
No thanks I didn't ask about drive belt I ask about rod from forward and reverse pedal to transmission that what I ask for
The orientation of the biology too the trivial..... Blah blah blah! Just make sure that the belt number is too the outside of the belt. Not the inside.
It would be cool if you have something insightful to add for other viewers' benefit, if you could be so kind, and write it in such a way as to be a useful tip.
Regarding TILT OF TRACTOR: If you scroll down through the comments this has been addressed. Keep the oil fill to the upside when turning on side, but yes you need to give gravity a chance to pull oil back down after on all 4 tires after repair. With the mower deck off it's really easy to push the tractor up on its side and perhaps you could just put blocks underneath the tires. It is possible to do it with the tires on the floor it's just easier to visualize on the side. If you tilt the mower too far or leave it that way for too long some oil will get up around the exhaust valves and when you first crank the mower up, it's going to smoke some, and then clear up.
Thank you. You are welcome. There is wisdom in reading the comments. Same mistake made over and over. I appreciate your acknowledgment.
The belt model number is printed on the outside, flat side, of the belt, not the narrower V-groove side. The shape of the pulley surface, flat, or V-groove, relates to which side of the belt contacts that particular pulley. I know many people view these videos on their phones, but please make sure to read the comment section for added valuable tips.