The difference between catless and catted DP is 5-10 horsepower, which is negligible. Spending $3k on exhaust is a waste of money. You get a very good sounding car with DP + custom muffler delete.
The exhausts for these cars are priced insane but sound so good that I think it’s worth just for the driving experience, can get the awe or dinan for around 2k which isn’t terrible
I’d still rather catless since it’s cheaper & sounds better. Muffler delete makes the car sound super loud, so an exhaust is better, but for the price a muffler delete can’t be beat.
Thank you so much! I’m a JDM guy at heart, but they just don’t make them how they used to! I had a supra before but that’s pretty much a BMW. That’s what made me love BMWs. A GTR is too expensive & no other JDM car really is as fast as my M340i. JDM is always gonna be my favorite but for tuning & modifying a modern car, BMWs are the way to go 🔥
E85 is cheaper but your gas mileage takes a pretty big hit too. It's definitely worth it for the power gains but when I started running e85 I was pretty much breaking even with straight 91 because of how much more I was filling up.
This is true for sure. I think ethanol gets used 30% quicker! For me id rather have the extra horsepower so I always fill up with e50. I definitely fill up a lot though 😂
I should maybe do that. I can flash XHP stage 3 & make it faster for a race & just flash back for daily. I actually didn’t think of that since my tune switches without flashing
I’m gonna have to try out stage 2 then. Hopefully it’s a good upgrade! Stage 3 is still sketchy to me. Sometimes I rather be safe than break something especially if I don’t really race that often!
subbed. very helpful video . right now on my 23 m340i only have downpipe , catback exhaust and CAI(basically all sound mods at this time lol ) havnt shipped ECU to femto yet , will probably do it in a year. I don’t think i care for a flex fuel kit and mixing gas everytime i fill up . is there still a path to 500 HP without changing fuel ?(without upgrading turbo )
XHP isn’t necessary. Tunes delete the torque limiter. You should get it if you want to customize shift points but you could save the 500 dollars and put it to flex fuel.
That’s a good point! I still think XHP made my car shift much faster after I got it vs with just my ECU tune. To me it made a difference & I’ve always wanted to try out stage 3 still
@@GearsAndGains1 I agree that it changes the feel of the car 100% and if that is what you’re looking for in a daily driver I believe that’s the route you should go 100% but if you’re just looking to be faster saving the money and putting it toward a power added would be the choice to make. When it comes to ET’s XhP makes little to no differences. Like I said though as a daily if you’re looking to get a more responsive driving feel and overall have the sound of the car sound more snappy then 100% get it
Good video, just a heads up going stage 1 or going stage 3 makes no difference on whether you break axles or driveshafts. its all about how hard you launch the car and how unlucky you can get at that point lol. To me stage 1 is pointless especially if im paying almost $500 i went straight to stage 3 and then went custom tuned with Rod Sutphin trans tune. love it so far
I didnt even know a custom trans tune was a thing! Wow you learn something new every day. I only went stage 1 since I have heard of someone who broke their driveshaft with stage 3. It did a little bit but now im definately numb to it lol. I got mine flashed from my friend for free so I didn't mind.
@@GearsAndGains1he probably launched it super hard and broke it. Can happen stock as well. If you are an enthusiast who loves how the car feels and when the car has more character then stage 2-3 is def the route. Stage 1 is more calm and reserved like a slightly upgraded form of stock. If you can try out 3 I’d recommend it, just adds to the pleasure of driving the car. The custom tune just made it much smoother and when I race it’s super fast shifting!
Hey bro, is warming up engine necessary ? I can just wait like 5 seconds make sure the oil is moving then, I can drive off but very gently for the first 30 seconds and then still drive lightly, gentle accelerations, and once the engine oil temp is up, I can just drive more spiritedly?
Pretty sure this goes for every car bro 😂 never thrash on it with cold oil when starting the car from a cold start wait for rpm’s to drop around or below 1k shouldn’t be anymore than 20-30 seconds
The best is to start the engine wait roughly one two minute! Let oil run everywhere… Then start drive off normal driving Until oil temp Reaches operation temp!! Depends on Ambient temp but b58 normaly 15-30 min !!
Yes that’s completely fine! Modern cars you don’t have to warm up the car as long as you would have to with older cars. You don’t have to wait for the cold start to idle down, but before driving hard & in higher RPMs I would wait until til the oil is up to temp. “Warming up” a car for 5-10 min before driving is one of the biggest myths older car enthusiasts still believe!
@@GearsAndGains1 yeah its actually causing more engine wear!! As its idleing it takes longer to warm and the longer it runs cold the more wear happens…
I haven’t, but I hear a lot of people sit around 530-550ish? It depends on a lot, mostly the tune & if it’s RWD or AWD. Technically wheel horsepower is lower for AWD cars since that power is split between all 4 wheels rather than 2
Did you upgrade your brakes? I have the same year as you and I'm wondering if I should do a big brake package or just upgrade to carbon ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors.
I only upgraded my brake pads. I spoke a little about it in the video I uploaded today but for really good braking, get upgraded rotors as well. The upgraded brake pads (and I also use track brake fluid) don’t do a whole lot for the braking, but there is a noticeable difference. For some way better braking, a whole upgraded kit is much better. The problem is the m340i has small brakes in the back. Only 4 piston front & like 1 rear which is not enough when you tune the car
No its not necessary really. Especially on a 2020+ m340i. The charge pipes are pretty reliable. I'd say if youre pushing over 600 then you should upgrade it
You can use the regular stock recommended oil, or actually in the manual it states you can switch to like a 5W-40 or something like that for harsher climates. Somewhere in the manual it says that, so I know many B58 owners have switched their oil when they’re tuned. Especially on Ethanol, you can have oil consumption issues because the b58 does burn oil at times & ethanol fuel wears it out faster. Because of this, I think I’m going to switch my OW20 to like a 5w40, but either one is safe for the car.
330i maybe! Not as easy as a m340i but definitely can get some good horsepower with just the same bolt on mods! The B48 after all is just a 4 cylinder B58
I haven’t tracked this car but I want to before I sell it. The thing is every time I’ve been to the drag strip every car there has had like 800 hp and up so there wasn’t much point in going on!
Yes all of this will work on a Gen 1 BUT you also have to upgrade the fuel pump on Gen 1. You can upgrade it to a TU/gen 2 fuel pump & its plug & play. You’ll be pushing around the same horsepower number, maybe a little less but it’ll be just as fast since Gen 1 cars are lighter
I wanna say it’s mineral white. My friend Hector’s f80 from my other video is alpine white & there’s a clear difference between our cars at night. In the sun they’re look more similar.
A 2021+ you can still do everything the same as in this video but you will have to ship your ECU out to get it unlocked. Will probably have to do MHD tuning as well!
I’ve gotta get a new draggy! Not sure where my old one went but also gotta make a trip since there’s not a ton of long roads here in NY. Last time I tried to do one in NJ I popped a tire on a nail 😂
The difference between catless and catted DP is 5-10 horsepower, which is negligible. Spending $3k on exhaust is a waste of money. You get a very good sounding car with DP + custom muffler delete.
No the best way is to Have dp, and cutout valve!! Then you have “silent” and Rowdy mode!!
@@bmwsincekid yes, that's another option. DP + valve controller. Either way, much better and much cheaper than $3k exhaust.
The exhausts for these cars are priced insane but sound so good that I think it’s worth just for the driving experience, can get the awe or dinan for around 2k which isn’t terrible
@@joshc9208 still overpriced at $2k. These cars sound very good without needing to spend that much.
I’d still rather catless since it’s cheaper & sounds better. Muffler delete makes the car sound super loud, so an exhaust is better, but for the price a muffler delete can’t be beat.
Your wheels and stance suit your car so damn well bro! Looks super JDM and it actually looks so dope on your Bimmer.
Thank you so much! I’m a JDM guy at heart, but they just don’t make them how they used to! I had a supra before but that’s pretty much a BMW. That’s what made me love BMWs. A GTR is too expensive & no other JDM car really is as fast as my M340i.
JDM is always gonna be my favorite but for tuning & modifying a modern car, BMWs are the way to go 🔥
Great video mate. Deserves more views!!
Thank you so much! I try every week for my subscribers to make the best quality videos. I’m so glad people enjoy them & watch them!
E85 is cheaper but your gas mileage takes a pretty big hit too. It's definitely worth it for the power gains but when I started running e85 I was pretty much breaking even with straight 91 because of how much more I was filling up.
This is true for sure. I think ethanol gets used 30% quicker! For me id rather have the extra horsepower so I always fill up with e50.
I definitely fill up a lot though 😂
W video, just earned another subscriber💯
Thank you so much for your support! I appreciate it! 🔥
Great build. Link for the red charge pipe please? :)
You could always refresh your car to a different stage on your transmission tune before a race
I should maybe do that. I can flash XHP stage 3 & make it faster for a race & just flash back for daily. I actually didn’t think of that since my tune switches without flashing
Xhp stage 2 is good stage one don’t really do nothing stage 2 is right in the middle brother
I’m gonna have to try out stage 2 then. Hopefully it’s a good upgrade! Stage 3 is still sketchy to me. Sometimes I rather be safe than break something especially if I don’t really race that often!
@@GearsAndGains1 true that brother stage 3 is just harder shift stage 2 in the middle I heard people say stage 1 is no point
subbed. very helpful video . right now on my 23 m340i only have downpipe , catback exhaust and CAI(basically all sound mods at this time lol ) havnt shipped ECU to femto yet , will probably do it in a year.
I don’t think i care for a flex fuel kit and mixing gas everytime i fill up . is there still a path to 500 HP without changing fuel ?(without upgrading turbo )
All this can be translated to different Bmw platforms and different platforms in general just to varying degrees
Exactly! Every BMW pretty much has this same formula, maybe adding a thing or two depending on the model. BMWs just do it all so easily!
You can get easy 500 with with pure turbo, down pipe, mhd and 93
What you said about runners is facts lol
You may have said it and I might have missed it. But what kit do you have for the Spoiler and front and rear splitter/diffuser.
Your wheels and M-Sport stripe make the car look cheap. Cool if that is the look you are going for.
M sport stripe was factory. Wheels are TE37s. If that’s cheap to you, idk what “expensive” is to you then
Yes. They LOOK cheap. I don't care what you paid for them. They don't fit the car. You are making it look like a fucken civic.
XHP isn’t necessary. Tunes delete the torque limiter. You should get it if you want to customize shift points but you could save the 500 dollars and put it to flex fuel.
That’s a good point! I still think XHP made my car shift much faster after I got it vs with just my ECU tune. To me it made a difference & I’ve always wanted to try out stage 3 still
@@GearsAndGains1 I agree that it changes the feel of the car 100% and if that is what you’re looking for in a daily driver I believe that’s the route you should go 100% but if you’re just looking to be faster saving the money and putting it toward a power added would be the choice to make. When it comes to ET’s XhP makes little to no differences. Like I said though as a daily if you’re looking to get a more responsive driving feel and overall have the sound of the car sound more snappy then 100% get it
do i have to send out my ecu to unlock it if i get a 2020 340?
Good video, just a heads up going stage 1 or going stage 3 makes no difference on whether you break axles or driveshafts. its all about how hard you launch the car and how unlucky you can get at that point lol. To me stage 1 is pointless especially if im paying almost $500 i went straight to stage 3 and then went custom tuned with Rod Sutphin trans tune. love it so far
I didnt even know a custom trans tune was a thing! Wow you learn something new every day. I only went stage 1 since I have heard of someone who broke their driveshaft with stage 3. It did a little bit but now im definately numb to it lol. I got mine flashed from my friend for free so I didn't mind.
@@GearsAndGains1he probably launched it super hard and broke it. Can happen stock as well. If you are an enthusiast who loves how the car feels and when the car has more character then stage 2-3 is def the route. Stage 1 is more calm and reserved like a slightly upgraded form of stock. If you can try out 3 I’d recommend it, just adds to the pleasure of driving the car. The custom tune just made it much smoother and when I race it’s super fast shifting!
Hey bro, is warming up engine necessary ? I can just wait like 5 seconds make sure the oil is moving then, I can drive off but very gently for the first 30 seconds and then still drive lightly, gentle accelerations, and once the engine oil temp is up, I can just drive more spiritedly?
Pretty sure this goes for every car bro 😂 never thrash on it with cold oil when starting the car from a cold start wait for rpm’s to drop around or below 1k shouldn’t be anymore than 20-30 seconds
The best is to start the engine wait roughly one two minute! Let oil run everywhere… Then start drive off normal driving Until oil temp
Reaches operation temp!! Depends on Ambient temp but b58 normaly 15-30 min !!
Yes that’s completely fine! Modern cars you don’t have to warm up the car as long as you would have to with older cars. You don’t have to wait for the cold start to idle down, but before driving hard & in higher RPMs I would wait until til the oil is up to temp.
“Warming up” a car for 5-10 min before driving is one of the biggest myths older car enthusiasts still believe!
@@GearsAndGains1 yeah its actually causing more engine wear!! As its idleing it takes longer to warm and the longer it runs cold the more wear happens…
Have you seen dyno numbers on a PI full e85 car?
I haven’t, but I hear a lot of people sit around 530-550ish? It depends on a lot, mostly the tune & if it’s RWD or AWD. Technically wheel horsepower is lower for AWD cars since that power is split between all 4 wheels rather than 2
@@GearsAndGains1 I’m getting PI to run full e I’m rwd so I’ll keep you updated if I ever dyno lmao
@@swervin204lol you can’t go “full e w port” until you build the trans. at that point you need intake manifold 3k usd + motive reflex
@@gggg-c9f6v just did bro, stock mani stock trans lol
U seriously need to get rid of that fugly boot spoiler... It totally spoils the good looks of your car
Did you upgrade your brakes? I have the same year as you and I'm wondering if I should do a big brake package or just upgrade to carbon ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors.
I only upgraded my brake pads. I spoke a little about it in the video I uploaded today but for really good braking, get upgraded rotors as well. The upgraded brake pads (and I also use track brake fluid) don’t do a whole lot for the braking, but there is a noticeable difference. For some way better braking, a whole upgraded kit is much better. The problem is the m340i has small brakes in the back. Only 4 piston front & like 1 rear which is not enough when you tune the car
@GearsAndGains1 thank you!! I will be making more time to watch your videos. I work too much, lol.
I see what I can afford.
@@johntaggert3209 thank you!! Hope you like them. & good luck with your build!
Is necessary to upgrade a charge pipe? I heard stock charge pipe on b58 is pretty solid.
No its not necessary really. Especially on a 2020+ m340i. The charge pipes are pretty reliable. I'd say if youre pushing over 600 then you should upgrade it
Does engine oil play a role? I know stock is 0w20 but if I am tuned should I change? Can you probably Dina video about engine oils
0w30 !! In Germany Bmw Uses 0w30 on B58 its best especially for tuned…
You can use the regular stock recommended oil, or actually in the manual it states you can switch to like a 5W-40 or something like that for harsher climates. Somewhere in the manual it says that, so I know many B58 owners have switched their oil when they’re tuned.
Especially on Ethanol, you can have oil consumption issues because the b58 does burn oil at times & ethanol fuel wears it out faster. Because of this, I think I’m going to switch my OW20 to like a 5w40, but either one is safe for the car.
@@GearsAndGains1 b58 burns 0 oil! Im on stg2 and i never missed a milli liter oil!
Can my BMW 330i become a SUPERCAR KILLER IN 3 EASY STEPS👉👈☺️
330i maybe! Not as easy as a m340i but definitely can get some good horsepower with just the same bolt on mods! The B48 after all is just a 4 cylinder B58
Have you tracked ur car? 0-60, 1/4 mile?
I haven’t tracked this car but I want to before I sell it. The thing is every time I’ve been to the drag strip every car there has had like 800 hp and up so there wasn’t much point in going on!
Will all this work for a gen 1 b58? Anyone know?
Yes all of this will work on a Gen 1 BUT you also have to upgrade the fuel pump on Gen 1. You can upgrade it to a TU/gen 2 fuel pump & its plug & play. You’ll be pushing around the same horsepower number, maybe a little less but it’ll be just as fast since Gen 1 cars are lighter
@@GearsAndGains1 thanks, man.
Of course thanks for watching!!
What color white is this ? Alpine or?
I wanna say it’s mineral white. My friend Hector’s f80 from my other video is alpine white & there’s a clear difference between our cars at night. In the sun they’re look more similar.
@@GearsAndGains1 oh alright I got ya what's the difference at night?
Yeah but what about a 2021
A 2021+ you can still do everything the same as in this video but you will have to ship your ECU out to get it unlocked. Will probably have to do MHD tuning as well!
Share your 60-130 times
I’ve gotta get a new draggy! Not sure where my old one went but also gotta make a trip since there’s not a ton of long roads here in NY. Last time I tried to do one in NJ I popped a tire on a nail 😂
Wheels are hideous!
Not beating a stock G80 M3 xdrive. No way