Fun fact: most if not all of the breadboards with the power and ground rails have a rectangle of adhesive material on the bottom. If you cut a corner of that adhesive rectangle off, you can solder the battery to the rails from the bottom side.
Back in the day, all we had were a small selection of "Project Boxes" at Radio Shack. But, the board wasn't displayed on top; it went inside. The controls, ports, etc. were mounted on the top and sides by individually drilling holes.
Thank you for sharing your design concepts and constraints, this is precious! I too spent quite a while designing boxes for my components, but I have different constraints, such as hole for OLED screens, repositioning of the switches or DIP switches on the enclosure itself, LED fields, placement for motors (including servomotors that need to be locked in place with very precise dimension), placement for external circuits (such as MPU6050 that has to be on a reference surface). I like a lot you're bringing solutions that can be addedto a design as a known-good working design and proven to work over time, thank you again.
I have done something similar with FreeCAD, creating a scalable box for FR4 perfboards. I settled on M2 screws in recesses that go from the bottom, through the board, and into brass heat inserts on the top half of the "clam." Once this base box is done, it is relatively simple to place holes and slots on the top and sides for the interface components.
How do you like FreeCAD? I'm just getting started with it but I've spent years working with SolidWorks and Inventor on the job. I like the "free" part and the fact it's open source
@@jeff5101 Also came from SW, and also want free tools. FreeCAD is a bit slow, and annoying ... but you can do most anything with it. Track down my PCB models on GrabCAD (same handle).
Great design! Subscribed! One nitpick though is that click lock will not last long thanks to material creep. It's satisfying for now but give it a week or two and it will be loose. Speaking based from experience.
Nice one, thanks! Would you be willing to also include a top cover that would slide or click into place? For those circuits to be protected all around while stuck under / behind other things.
I've been struggling with cases for my circuits too! I'm glad you're sharing this with all of us, hoping to adapt the design to 18650 batteries too, since I usually use those, but I'll look into the coin cell rechargeable too, I've never heard of it, thanks!! 10/10 btw
This is pretty cool. I would print it in ABS since that's what Lego are made from and they're nigh indestructible. I've got 30 year old Lego that are still as good as when they were new and still hurt plenty if you step on them.
Thanks for the well thought out design and the idea to use those batteries. I see your files are all STL, Fusion does work with STL files but very poorly and TinkerCAD works really well with them but is painful to use as a design programme. I haven’t tried Onshape. What CAD do you use?
Hello, i really like your videos and how you explain. I am verry intersted by 3D graphics, so would you make a quake tutorial like for doom and raycasting ? Thank you for reading my comment.
Your video production quality is excellent 👌 subscribed ❤
Thank you so much for your support! :)
i can read on cats face "WHEN YOU WILL MAKE A BOX FOR ME?"
Literally someone just gave me the task of designing a box for some electronics like two days ago. Life saver
Fun fact: most if not all of the breadboards with the power and ground rails have a rectangle of adhesive material on the bottom. If you cut a corner of that adhesive rectangle off, you can solder the battery to the rails from the bottom side.
Brilliant!!
Background cat is awesome! 😊
He is a great helper 😺
I really like the modular/adjustable approach!
Thank you! I felt it was needed for people to make adjustments for their projects. :)
Back in the day, all we had were a small selection of "Project Boxes" at Radio Shack.
But, the board wasn't displayed on top; it went inside. The controls, ports, etc. were mounted on the top and sides by individually drilling holes.
Starting with the box first always worked well for me.
Also drop the 'smallest' requirement when doing pcbs - makes your life way easier.
Simple and adaptable design, I like it! 😃
That was my goal so thank you! :)
Thank you for sharing your design concepts and constraints, this is precious! I too spent quite a while designing boxes for my components, but I have different constraints, such as hole for OLED screens, repositioning of the switches or DIP switches on the enclosure itself, LED fields, placement for motors (including servomotors that need to be locked in place with very precise dimension), placement for external circuits (such as MPU6050 that has to be on a reference surface). I like a lot you're bringing solutions that can be addedto a design as a known-good working design and proven to work over time, thank you again.
I have done something similar with FreeCAD, creating a scalable box for FR4 perfboards. I settled on M2 screws in recesses that go from the bottom, through the board, and into brass heat inserts on the top half of the "clam." Once this base box is done, it is relatively simple to place holes and slots on the top and sides for the interface components.
How do you like FreeCAD? I'm just getting started with it but I've spent years working with SolidWorks and Inventor on the job. I like the "free" part and the fact it's open source
@@jeff5101 Also came from SW, and also want free tools. FreeCAD is a bit slow, and annoying ... but you can do most anything with it. Track down my PCB models on GrabCAD (same handle).
Nice, this looks like a great design! Also, I had no idea rechargeable coin cells were a thing. Whoa!
I know! I was so happy when I found that. It works great so I wanted to share it with you all.
Great design! Subscribed!
One nitpick though is that click lock will not last long thanks to material creep. It's satisfying for now but give it a week or two and it will be loose. Speaking based from experience.
I will post updates. The name tag model has been clicking the same for months so far.
the cat is so obedient lol
Nice one, thanks! Would you be willing to also include a top cover that would slide or click into place? For those circuits to be protected all around while stuck under / behind other things.
what 3d modeling software do you use ?
thanks mate its very useful
most of my experience with electronics is with FPGAs. I wish I had more experience with actually building circuits, especially PCBs.
every video you make is incredible!!! 3d sage going STRONG as ever!
one question tho, will you show us how ya made the cute console¿?
Thank you for the kind comment!
And yes I would like to make a part 2 video with an updated Cute Console!
great sense of humor
I've been struggling with cases for my circuits too! I'm glad you're sharing this with all of us, hoping to adapt the design to 18650 batteries too, since I usually use those, but I'll look into the coin cell rechargeable too, I've never heard of it, thanks!! 10/10 btw
Very nice! And I love your kitty! What's it's name, if you don't mind me asking?
His name is Leo because he looks like a little lion. He is so curious about what I am making and he loves the camera.
This is pretty cool. I would print it in ABS since that's what Lego are made from and they're nigh indestructible. I've got 30 year old Lego that are still as good as when they were new and still hurt plenty if you step on them.
i did not care about the video, but i loved
THE
C A T
Then my cat cares about you! 😺
This is perfect and genius
Thanks for the well thought out design and the idea to use those batteries. I see your files are all STL, Fusion does work with STL files but very poorly and TinkerCAD works really well with them but is painful to use as a design programme. I haven’t tried Onshape. What CAD do you use?
Oh ok I can also upload different file formats. What do you prefer?
@@3DSage I suggest .step files for general compatibility although fusion is very popular and uses .f3d files. Thanks.
Cool!
Awesome Idea, one question. What type of plastic did you use? PLA, PLA+, PETG, or up to ABS? Thank you for the video.
Thanks!
thanks, it gives me an inspiration
i love cats and pcbs subscribed ❤
My cat Leo is happy to hear that! 😺
thanks for including cat
Leo is so curious about what I am doing that it's actually harder to keep him off camera 😹
What 3d cad dou you use
you can use some for free, i use onshape because it works like autodesk softwares.
4:00 Me when light mode.
bro when are you gonna follow up on the doom tutorials?
Very soon! :)
Nifty!
Very nice, do you have a link to the battery holders you used?
Yes that link is in the description for thingiverse or instructables.
I only watched the cat 😸
Hello, i really like your videos and how you explain. I am verry intersted by 3D graphics, so would you make a quake tutorial like for doom and raycasting ? Thank you for reading my comment.
Why are rechargable 2032's 3.7 volts when standard 2032 are 3v?
Did you just make a real retro gadget without a front cover or multitool Connector?
What modeling software is this? I haven’t seen it.
I'm a 3D animator who learned 3Ds Max so that's what I like to model with :)
@@3DSage THATS why it hit me with nostalgia! 3Ds Max has been around a long, long time.
Cool thank you for the reply!
Why hello fellow 3ds Max user
It's not perfect but I have lots of experience and it's great for my 3D printable models.
@@3DSage Oh for sure. It's great if your familiar with its idiosyncrasies - it's *terrible* if your not.
I want to put a Princess Celestia (My Little Pony) Soundchip in a squeezable cover.
pwease boopz da kibtty for me
real
Bro please please please please 🥺🥺🥺
Tell me how you learned electronics and how I can as hobby
Bof, the rear cover bulges, as the side where it is entering... Not refined enough
It's a snug fit so a little light sanding on the board will make it a perfect fit.