That can be a really fast printer with the right upgrades. Well on sale the parts are worth it alone if you're looking for a good challenge. It goes on Amazon recently for 300 or so and they've improved some of the old faults so it's not such a money sink haha. Fast printer though when done properly. Good video
A quick hack for the printhead. Use a zip tie and a washer and use it to put tension between the lower roller on the head and your new petg bracket/belt holder. The head will be much more stable
Great video, I have used 6mm ply slotted into the base and rear channels to strengthen and keep frame square. I'm also looking to replace the 608 bearings with idler wheels, plain and toothed, will not need the additional washers. The bed plate on my printer has connections for 2x12v OR 1x24v but only 1x12v is connected. simple 12-0-12 configuration.
maybe on more current models being shipped, but on mine there were NO eccentric nuts to be found on X or Y. This is a problem with many import printers (Or perhaps a good thing depending on which you get), were the manufacturer is continually changing the BOM and tweaking the specifications / build slightly. A review like mine could be just released and already the manufacturer has changed things that are highlighted in the video, if this is an improvement then this is good for the customer but may invalidate many comments of a reviewer, if it is a cost saving then the reviewer can also look bad because the product does not even meet the same standard as the presented review and someone may base a purchase on the review. For all of use that present reviews, this is a continual challenge and can require frequent rework and monitoring of older reviews to see if there still valid
@@TheBreadboardca yeah, also they could ship with galss bed instead of galssfibre, as i was unable to level my bed with glassfible, bought 330x330 size glass bed
@@Kentuliz Ya, that's were auto mesh bed leveling would help (With the fiberglass bed), I would think fiberglass is not as good a heat conductor as straight glass so the switch should help get better bed temps, assuming the underlying heat bed is also flat to make good contact
I've now got the new improved design of Tronxy 3D printer in 2020. the "X5SA" The company has redone some of the brackets and parts. All the Stepper Motors are now Silent versions, the brackets holding the pulleys are now metal and the X & Y motors are on thick Fiberglass mounts, They have replaced the pulley's for the belts and the power is now 24 Volt power system for better heating of the hot head and the bed, they head has two fans now with some ducts to better flow the air around the head and the hot end has a silicone jacket too, there is a optical sensor for the head to see where the distance of the hot bed is, all the main box and chain mounted wires are already done, no open box of wiring now! They have a colour 3.5 inch control touch screen too and there is Auto Bed Leveling installed and Manual too. there is 6 leveling point hand knobs on the underside of the hot bed, there is a auto filament run out/ break optical sensor on the side above the spool holder, there is a system where if the power goes down in a printing time. when the power is back on, you press carry on print, and the printer will carry on from the last point done! The only problem I have is my machine has a leveling fault, it starts the Auto leveling with the head going to the back Y corner frame the touch sensor does it's stuff then the head goes across to the X front corner frame, it does the same touching of the sensor there, then the bed is raised up to the head and the optical sensor does it's checks, THEN the problem? The head try's to race off to the outside of X front side frame! I have to tap the back arrow on the screen to stop it as the belts are about to pop under the stress? Tronxy support are trying to help me I sent them a video I did of the actions! But after 20 days of this I about to just dismantle the printer and get my money back? I could have brought a 43 inch Smart TV for the price this printer cost me? : ( I really wish I can use the printer.
Tronxy if your reading this, send me a unit and I will make some setup and usage videos and be able to help viewers like Colin. It sounds like the printer has a configuration error in the firmware, everything else you describe indicates the unit hardware and electronics is OK, except for the fact that if the electronics is using silent step sticks they should be detecting when the head zooms off to the side or the limit switches hit their limits ?? It is possible they have home directions correct but other movement configuration going the wrong way?. so you should be able to get new firmware image from the vendor/supplier, I dont have this model or I would be able to investigate further for you.
Regarding your hotend carriage, you need to have the eccentric nut on the bottom. If you put eccentric nuts on the top, you will introduce slant to your hotend nozzle.
I will buy my second printer on "Black Friday", today! I own Anet A6 and I would like a larger model arround 330x330mm or more. I was looking for Tronxy X5SA because of the "box configuration". I would love to have a high quality machine with a large bed. I was thinking about 200$ upgrade such as a silicone heat bead (1000W, 120V, 50$ Ebay +5$ Mosfet), better belt and better bearing. But will it be great then, is it enough? Will it compare to 2000$ models? Should I let go the nice "box" high end look? Should I go with JGAurora A5 or CR10 or a copy of theses? Thank for your inputs, Alex form Québec, Canada
About the loose wheels on the print head, OpenBuilds has an eccentric spacer that allows you to adjust the wheel clearance by rotating the spacer to achieve a good fit before tightening. Here's a link to that part: openbuildspartstore.com/eccentric-spacer/ *EDIT:* Oh. I listened a bit farther and I see you know about this.
Do you know if the X5SA touch screen will work with MKS boards or other open source boards? I heard it will not work so you have to use different display. any idea why that is?
Hi, I recently acquired a tronxy x5s and when I was heating up the nozzle for the first time the wires in the nozzle started glowing and burning, it seems it had a short and wasn’t working the right way, with what nozzle I can replace it with? I’m new to 3d printing and need some help, also this blow the onboard fuse in the mainboard, I already resolved this by soldering a external fuse, could I upgrade the mainboard with other one, thinking of doing this on the long run, also, what size fuse should I use for now. Thanks.
watch this video regarding the electronics upgrade ua-cam.com/video/q1nfojoZUvA/v-deo.html you should be able to get a direct replacement head from tronxy?, I have never replace mine yet but im pretty sure most 12V heads should work, if your going to upgrade, you might consider an all metal version so you can print more materials that need hotter temps to work (The stock has a PTFE liner that will give off toxic gasses if used much above 250 ish.
Hey peter great videos. I watch them all on Trinity x5s as I have one and done a lot of upgrades. Question. Sense the first day I got mine my heatbed temp runs away on my and I can’t control the temp. I can’t figure it out. Do you have any ideas? I don’t have the original PSU I run a 500w AVG computer PSU. As it’s way better. Yes it’s hooked up to 12 volts to the bed only.
I would suspect the bed temperature sensor is not working or incorrectly configured... do you get accurate readings as best you can tell ?, also in the marlin firmware you can turn on the runaway checks if there not already on, did you upgrade the marlin and turn them on ?
Peter Oakes No I didn’t turn them on, as I don’t know how to do this sir. I have version 1.1.6. I also just tried running a separate PSU 15volts to my mosfet/bedtemp. No change in runaway temp but did reach higher temps. So that’s a plus. Are you able to send me the firmware to me in an email as a Gcode file as I can upload to my printer as a write file. I have a new sensor so I will install when I return to home. Thank you very much Mr Oakes. Look forward to your reply.
It cant be upgraded via GCode, it needs to be done using either an Arduino IDE, Visual Studio Code or other programming tool, have you ever upgraded the firmware or played with Arduino's
thermal runaway is nothing to do with the power supply feeding the BED, t is all to do with the software / Temperature Sensor and the MOSFET driving the bed supply. If any of these has an issue you could see the problem you describe. When the bed is at room temperature, what does the temperature read on the display ?
Not on the one I received, it had no Eccentric nut on the carriages, I had to add them, check 1:59 for a close view (No the head but the head had the same basic assembly parts.
from what I can see there may be one of 2 boards (Its a little confusing), there is a Melzie 2 board or an Arm based Tronxy board that I have seen a picture of but can so far find no details
Hi, thanks for your video. Also I have a Tronxy X5S and I wanted to ask for help if possible. My problem is this: all the steppers are deactivated after 60 seconds by releasing the print bed downwards, I do not understand why this problem occurs. Can you give me some help?
Your slicer may be adding an M18, M84 command at the end of the print job, this will disable the steppers after a period or immediately depending on parameters, if this is the case then the slicer should be able to be re-configured not to do this. Now Marlin may also be doing this on its own and this has been a default. In Configuration_adv.h there's a define called DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME; it is set by default to 60 (seconds) The area will look like this // Default stepper release if idle. Set to 0 to deactivate. // Steppers will shut down DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME seconds after the last move when DISABLE_INACTIVE_? is true. // Time can be set by M18 and M84. #define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120 #define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true #define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true #define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished. #define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true your can see that in 1.1.8 it is set to 120 Seconds but it is all commented out in this version by default so it should not be active, if you are able to re-compile and upload new firmware then you can change DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z to false, this will disable the timeout on only Z. if you are unable to upload new firmware then you should be able to issue a M84 S0 at the end of the print job, you may also be able to simply run this to change the saved configuration (Im not sure at this time) If you want to know more github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/M84 And look in Configuration_Adv.h for #define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME SD_FINISHED_RELEASECOMMAND un fortunatly there is no easy way to see what a specific firmware is set to once it is uploaded but if your able to upgrade or re-load then it is all up to you as described above
@@TheBreadboardca Thanks but, my problem is not the slicer, the printer after being turned on and made the home, then ready to print, I do not have time to do anything because after 60 seconds you turn off all the steppers by dropping the bed, at the beginning I did not have this problem, I can not understand why. Before to disable the steppers I had to act on the command "Disable stepper" and it was ok. Now, however, after 60 seconds they turn themselves off, so I can not do anything, I can not even start a print.
@@MauryXman The slicer part of my response also included a way to turn off the timeout "M84 S0", I am now assuming you had this working one time and now not, did you upgrade Marlin, if so from what to what? Did this problem happen from Day 1?, are you able to follow my previous response instructions ? and let me know the results Thanks Peter
I am not able to execute your instructions because the printer goes down the Z axis after just 60 seconds from the "Home" operation, so I can not use it. At the beginning the printer worked well, I did not have this problem, it suddenly appeared without modifying anything. I have not made any updates, the firmware is the stock version of the Tronxy X5S. Thanks for help
@@MauryXman Is it possible a fan cooling the stepper drivers has failed or there overheating and shutting down, the Z is always over driven as it is typically driving 2 steppers, you should be able to hold a finger on the Z drivers (Or any other ones) without burning but be careful and expect it to be hot
I like the simplicity of this design and the modifications you've made to it. *QUESTION:* Would it be practical to build one of these printers from scratch using OpenBuilds parts that work and fabricating the other parts? Or would it be worth my while to buy one of the X5S kits and then mod it from there?
it came without but after a while as the wheels bed in the carriage will become lose and then you need to tighten things some how. the eccentrics make this easy, squeezing the wheels together and hoping while you tighten will never work well lol.
@@TheBreadboardca Hi there, (just subbed in btw) great videos fella! I never noticed any slop in the extruder carriage when re-assembling my machine (for about the 3rd time) but when you showed that i paused the video and went to look and omg there is a lot of play... Well less than you showed but still an unacceptably large amount of movement! I have what must be a newer or updated version of the x5s as there is already a rear plate for the belt to mount on and the idlers on the gantry are not stacked but rather one idler on the front wheel and one over the rear wheel. You are able to jiggle the stepper mounts and front idler mounts to get the belts within 1mm of being perpendicular, immensely better than what you had to deal with although still not perfect. Sorry if this is going to a noob question, but i'm an open builds noob! lol You show the mock up of the 2 gantry plates with eccentric nuts on the lower v-slot wheels and would appear to be installed on your later still images of the newly assembled gantry, however this comment says you didn't have eccentric nuts installed at all? I'm just adding the parts to my shopping cart right now and wanted to be sure if i should get eccentric nuts or not? ( I suppose i could just order them anyway as i'm sure they would come in handy elsewhere, but would like to get this modification done in one go rather than getting it stripped down and finding im missing something)
@@markwood9751 For sure get the eccentrics, wheels will always wear and they will allow easy adjustment without replacement, mine did not come with eccentrics but I had some from my CNC builds so I added them when I replaced the gantry plates.
@@TheBreadboardca Thanks for the reply 👍 Bam... ordered 😁 Although I have just realised I totally misunderstood your initial reply, that it was the oem carriage that didn't have eccentric nuts 🙄
i would tend to agree but unfortunately this is quite typical of many "Import Printers".... dont even get me started with the claims on temperatures etc or the electrical systems (Dealt with in other videos :) )
the clear plastic (Acrylic) is from cast sheet goods and is therefor a solid mass, therefor stronger, 3d printed parts often can be weaker between layers. Also I had the acrylic already and it was easy to machine with my home made CNC machine (And quicker, took about 15 minutes vs sever hours). with the right filament and good adhesion, there is technically no reason to not 3d print the part instead.
I've had this printer a little over a month. I've done a number of upgrades and now it prints as well as my $700 Qidi Tech 1. Plus the X5S build plate is twice as large as the Qidi.
The motor mounts on my X5S are thicker than yours, but I found I could still move them a little when I pulled on the belts. I did this mod, among others. ua-cam.com/video/YEo1ifQWC6E/v-deo.html It really helped to stabilize the gantry. I also did some work on the carriage wheels and pulleys.
![[Устарело] Гайд по доработке Ender-3/CR-10/Aquila](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ozurs525QfU/mqdefault.jpg)
That can be a really fast printer with the right upgrades. Well on sale the parts are worth it alone if you're looking for a good challenge. It goes on Amazon recently for 300 or so and they've improved some of the old faults so it's not such a money sink haha. Fast printer though when done properly. Good video
wow.. i didn't realize there was so much play in the head. I'm just now building and modding my X5s.
I love this machine after I upgraded it but my next upgrade will be the single motor Z and rails for Y and some way to manage that PTFE Bowden tube.
I managed my Bowden tube by simply and loosely tie-wrap it to my wire manager on top ... this way everything moves together. Works great on my X5SA.
A quick hack for the printhead. Use a zip tie and a washer and use it to put tension between the lower roller on the head and your new petg bracket/belt holder. The head will be much more stable
Like this photos.app.goo.gl/jv5C9Pu2sXXmx8KC9
@@andersstromqvist2211
Nice Trick
Wow, thanks for sharing 😀👍
Great video, I have used 6mm ply slotted into the base and rear channels to strengthen and keep frame square. I'm also looking to replace the 608 bearings with idler wheels, plain and toothed, will not need the additional washers. The bed plate on my printer has connections for 2x12v OR 1x24v but only 1x12v is connected. simple 12-0-12 configuration.
There is a adjustable nut on single wheel, you can adjust it to make it very tight on x axis also same on y axis
maybe on more current models being shipped, but on mine there were NO eccentric nuts to be found on X or Y.
This is a problem with many import printers (Or perhaps a good thing depending on which you get), were the manufacturer is continually changing the BOM and tweaking the specifications / build slightly.
A review like mine could be just released and already the manufacturer has changed things that are highlighted in the video, if this is an improvement then this is good for the customer but may invalidate many comments of a reviewer, if it is a cost saving then the reviewer can also look bad because the product does not even meet the same standard as the presented review and someone may base a purchase on the review.
For all of use that present reviews, this is a continual challenge and can require frequent rework and monitoring of older reviews to see if there still valid
@@TheBreadboardca yeah, also they could ship with galss bed instead of galssfibre, as i was unable to level my bed with glassfible, bought 330x330 size glass bed
@@Kentuliz Ya, that's were auto mesh bed leveling would help (With the fiberglass bed), I would think fiberglass is not as good a heat conductor as straight glass so the switch should help get better bed temps, assuming the underlying heat bed is also flat to make good contact
Wish I had someone close by like you to sort mine. nice Vid
Whats up with yours ?
I've now got the new improved design of Tronxy 3D printer in 2020. the "X5SA" The company has redone some of the brackets and parts. All the Stepper Motors are now Silent versions, the brackets holding the pulleys are now metal and the X & Y motors are on thick Fiberglass mounts, They have replaced the pulley's for the belts and the power is now 24 Volt power system for better heating of the hot head and the bed, they head has two fans now with some ducts to better flow the air around the head and the hot end has a silicone jacket too, there is a optical sensor for the head to see where the distance of the hot bed is, all the main box and chain mounted wires are already done, no open box of wiring now! They have a colour 3.5 inch control touch screen too and there is Auto Bed Leveling installed and Manual too. there is 6 leveling point hand knobs on the underside of the hot bed, there is a auto filament run out/ break optical sensor on the side above the spool holder, there is a system where if the power goes down in a printing time. when the power is back on, you press carry on print, and the printer will carry on from the last point done! The only problem I have is my machine has a leveling fault, it starts the Auto leveling with the head going to the back Y corner frame the touch sensor does it's stuff then the head goes across to the X front corner frame, it does the same touching of the sensor there, then the bed is raised up to the head and the optical sensor does it's checks, THEN the problem? The head try's to race off to the outside of X front side frame! I have to tap the back arrow on the screen to stop it as the belts are about to pop under the stress? Tronxy support are trying to help me I sent them a video I did of the actions! But after 20 days of this I about to just dismantle the printer and get my money back? I could have brought a 43 inch Smart TV for the price this printer cost me? : ( I really wish I can use the printer.
Tronxy if your reading this, send me a unit and I will make some setup and usage videos and be able to help viewers like Colin.
It sounds like the printer has a configuration error in the firmware, everything else you describe indicates the unit hardware and electronics is OK, except for the fact that if the electronics is using silent step sticks they should be detecting when the head zooms off to the side or the limit switches hit their limits ?? It is possible they have home directions correct but other movement configuration going the wrong way?. so you should be able to get new firmware image from the vendor/supplier, I dont have this model or I would be able to investigate further for you.
Regarding your hotend carriage, you need to have the eccentric nut on the bottom. If you put eccentric nuts on the top, you will introduce slant to your hotend nozzle.
Good point and thanks for mentioning it. In the video (And I just checked), I do have mine on the bottom :)
Why did you use PETG filament for the parts instead of PLA ?
A stiffer part.
I will buy my second printer on "Black Friday", today!
I own Anet A6 and I would like a larger model arround 330x330mm or more.
I was looking for Tronxy X5SA because of the "box configuration". I would love to have a high quality machine with a large bed. I was thinking about 200$ upgrade such as a silicone heat bead (1000W, 120V, 50$ Ebay +5$ Mosfet), better belt and better bearing. But will it be great then, is it enough? Will it compare to 2000$ models?
Should I let go the nice "box" high end look? Should I go with JGAurora A5 or CR10 or a copy of theses?
Thank for your inputs, Alex form Québec, Canada
About the loose wheels on the print head, OpenBuilds has an eccentric spacer that allows you to adjust the wheel clearance by rotating the spacer to achieve a good fit before tightening. Here's a link to that part: openbuildspartstore.com/eccentric-spacer/
*EDIT:* Oh. I listened a bit farther and I see you know about this.
:) and used them, but thanks for sharing
Do you know if the X5SA touch screen will work with MKS boards or other open source boards? I heard it will not work so you have to use different display. any idea why that is?
Hi, I recently acquired a tronxy x5s and when I was heating up the nozzle for the first time the wires in the nozzle started glowing and burning, it seems it had a short and wasn’t working the right way, with what nozzle I can replace it with? I’m new to 3d printing and need some help, also this blow the onboard fuse in the mainboard, I already resolved this by soldering a external fuse, could I upgrade the mainboard with other one, thinking of doing this on the long run, also, what size fuse should I use for now. Thanks.
watch this video regarding the electronics upgrade ua-cam.com/video/q1nfojoZUvA/v-deo.html
you should be able to get a direct replacement head from tronxy?, I have never replace mine yet but im pretty sure most 12V heads should work, if your going to upgrade, you might consider an all metal version so you can print more materials that need hotter temps to work (The stock has a PTFE liner that will give off toxic gasses if used much above 250 ish.
Hey peter great videos. I watch them all on Trinity x5s as I have one and done a lot of upgrades. Question. Sense the first day I got mine my heatbed temp runs away on my and I can’t control the temp. I can’t figure it out. Do you have any ideas? I don’t have the original PSU I run a 500w AVG computer PSU. As it’s way better. Yes it’s hooked up to 12 volts to the bed only.
I would suspect the bed temperature sensor is not working or incorrectly configured... do you get accurate readings as best you can tell ?, also in the marlin firmware you can turn on the runaway checks if there not already on, did you upgrade the marlin and turn them on ?
Peter Oakes No I didn’t turn them on, as I don’t know how to do this sir. I have version 1.1.6. I also just tried running a separate PSU 15volts to my mosfet/bedtemp. No change in runaway temp but did reach higher temps. So that’s a plus. Are you able to send me the firmware to me in an email as a Gcode file as I can upload to my printer as a write file. I have a new sensor so I will install when I return to home. Thank you very much Mr Oakes. Look forward to your reply.
It cant be upgraded via GCode, it needs to be done using either an Arduino IDE, Visual Studio Code or other programming tool, have you ever upgraded the firmware or played with Arduino's
thermal runaway is nothing to do with the power supply feeding the BED, t is all to do with the software / Temperature Sensor and the MOSFET driving the bed supply. If any of these has an issue you could see the problem you describe. When the bed is at room temperature, what does the temperature read on the display ?
Peter Oakes no I have never done this programming
Adjustment of the bracket is the bottom wheel
Not on the one I received, it had no Eccentric nut on the carriages, I had to add them, check 1:59 for a close view (No the head but the head had the same basic assembly parts.
Thanks Peter another interesting video, what would be your thoughts on constructing a optical filament sensor for use within Marlin, regards, RobUK
Already working on a filament run out sensor... stay tuned :)
Brilliant Peter, thanks for that, I am sure you could also design a better power resume board with your capability, regards, RobUK
Peter do you know what board the x5sa-400 uses? I am trying to get auto levelling working.
from what I can see there may be one of 2 boards (Its a little confusing), there is a Melzie 2 board or an Arm based Tronxy board that I have seen a picture of but can so far find no details
Really nice done!
Hi, thanks for your video. Also I have a Tronxy X5S and I wanted to ask for help if possible. My problem is this: all the steppers are deactivated after 60 seconds by releasing the print bed downwards, I do not understand why this problem occurs. Can you give me some help?
Your slicer may be adding an M18, M84 command at the end of the print job, this will disable the steppers after a period or immediately depending on parameters, if this is the case then the slicer should be able to be re-configured not to do this.
Now Marlin may also be doing this on its own and this has been a default. In Configuration_adv.h there's a define called DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME; it is set by default to 60 (seconds)
The area will look like this
// Default stepper release if idle. Set to 0 to deactivate.
// Steppers will shut down DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME seconds after the last move when DISABLE_INACTIVE_? is true.
// Time can be set by M18 and M84.
#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true
your can see that in 1.1.8 it is set to 120 Seconds but it is all commented out in this version by default so it should not be active, if you are able to re-compile and upload new firmware then you can change DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z to false, this will disable the timeout on only Z.
if you are unable to upload new firmware then you should be able to issue a M84 S0 at the end of the print job, you may also be able to simply run this to change the saved configuration (Im not sure at this time)
If you want to know more github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/M84
And look in Configuration_Adv.h for
#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME
SD_FINISHED_RELEASECOMMAND
un fortunatly there is no easy way to see what a specific firmware is set to once it is uploaded but if your able to upgrade or re-load then it is all up to you as described above
@@TheBreadboardca Thanks but, my problem is not the slicer, the printer after being turned on and made the home, then ready to print, I do not have time to do anything because after 60 seconds you turn off all the steppers by dropping the bed, at the beginning I did not have this problem, I can not understand why. Before to disable the steppers I had to act on the command "Disable stepper" and it was ok. Now, however, after 60 seconds they turn themselves off, so I can not do anything, I can not even start a print.
@@MauryXman The slicer part of my response also included a way to turn off the timeout "M84 S0", I am now assuming you had this working one time and now not, did you upgrade Marlin, if so from what to what? Did this problem happen from Day 1?, are you able to follow my previous response instructions ? and let me know the results
Thanks
Peter
I am not able to execute your instructions because the printer goes down the Z axis after just 60 seconds from the "Home" operation, so I can not use it. At the beginning the printer worked well, I did not have this problem, it suddenly appeared without modifying anything. I have not made any updates, the firmware is the stock version of the Tronxy X5S. Thanks for help
@@MauryXman Is it possible a fan cooling the stepper drivers has failed or there overheating and shutting down, the Z is always over driven as it is typically driving 2 steppers, you should be able to hold a finger on the Z drivers (Or any other ones) without burning but be careful and expect it to be hot
I like the simplicity of this design and the modifications you've made to it.
*QUESTION:* Would it be practical to build one of these printers from scratch using OpenBuilds parts that work and fabricating the other parts?
Or would it be worth my while to buy one of the X5S kits and then mod it from there?
That is the subject of a upcomming video :)
Okay. I'm now a subscriber!
@richard Acker You should post a video about it. I'd like to see how you put it all together.
@richard Acker I'll be looking for it. I just *SUBSCRIBED!* So I'm your first subscriber.
Hi, did anyone know what is the consume in ampere of this printer?
Good video! Did you have to use eccentric nuts in the motor mounts?
it came without but after a while as the wheels bed in the carriage will become lose and then you need to tighten things some how. the eccentrics make this easy, squeezing the wheels together and hoping while you tighten will never work well lol.
I'm thinking of doing this mod on my X5S. Do you have the STL for the modified part? On Thingiverse? Thanks!
The links are in the description,,,
OK, I understand. I thought you had to redesign the part to use the eccentric. You just used an eccentric instead of an ordinary nut.
I changed the gantry plate for an Open Builds style part and changed the spacer for an eccentric
could tell us what slicer and settings?
Great
Where can i get this build plates :))?
The one you see came with the printer but you can get them from a number of places. Search for build tack or build plates
@hans nussbaum @thebreadboard I think he is talking about the open build plates ..
Plates - OpenBuilds Part Storeopenbuildspartstore.com just google
8:40 How about adjusting the eccentric nut of the bottom wheel?
there was NO eccentric on my machine, perhaps it was a latter addition to improve things.
@@TheBreadboardca Hi there, (just subbed in btw) great videos fella!
I never noticed any slop in the extruder carriage when re-assembling my machine (for about the 3rd time) but when you showed that i paused the video and went to look and omg there is a lot of play... Well less than you showed but still an unacceptably large amount of movement!
I have what must be a newer or updated version of the x5s as there is already a rear plate for the belt to mount on and the idlers on the gantry are not stacked but rather one idler on the front wheel and one over the rear wheel.
You are able to jiggle the stepper mounts and front idler mounts to get the belts within 1mm of being perpendicular, immensely better than what you had to deal with although still not perfect.
Sorry if this is going to a noob question, but i'm an open builds noob! lol
You show the mock up of the 2 gantry plates with eccentric nuts on the lower v-slot wheels and would appear to be installed on your later still images of the newly assembled gantry, however this comment says you didn't have eccentric nuts installed at all?
I'm just adding the parts to my shopping cart right now and wanted to be sure if i should get eccentric nuts or not?
( I suppose i could just order them anyway as i'm sure they would come in handy elsewhere, but would like to get this modification done in one go rather than getting it stripped down and finding im missing something)
@@markwood9751 For sure get the eccentrics, wheels will always wear and they will allow easy adjustment without replacement, mine did not come with eccentrics but I had some from my CNC builds so I added them when I replaced the gantry plates.
@@TheBreadboardca Thanks for the reply 👍 Bam... ordered 😁
Although I have just realised I totally misunderstood your initial reply, that it was the oem carriage that didn't have eccentric nuts 🙄
This is ridiculous! Youre basically doing all the work Tronxy should have done! Good modifications for a lazy design of a printer.
i would tend to agree but unfortunately this is quite typical of many "Import Printers".... dont even get me started with the claims on temperatures etc or the electrical systems (Dealt with in other videos :) )
為什麼有些部件使用透明材料而不是全部使用3D打印？
對不起，我的英語不好。我只能使用GOOGLE翻譯來觀看該消息。
the clear plastic (Acrylic) is from cast sheet goods and is therefor a solid mass, therefor stronger, 3d printed parts often can be weaker between layers. Also I had the acrylic already and it was easy to machine with my home made CNC machine (And quicker, took about 15 minutes vs sever hours). with the right filament and good adhesion, there is technically no reason to not 3d print the part instead.
The best designers are not in China
Bought a Tronxy x5sa pro 3 months ago haven't got one print off it yet, biggest piece of trash I have ever wasted money on
WELL I JUST DECIDED NOT TO BUY THIS PRINTER OFF THE LIST ................
Too much upgrading required to make it go well im assuming
I've had this printer a little over a month. I've done a number of upgrades and now it prints as well as my $700 Qidi Tech 1. Plus the X5S build plate is twice as large as the Qidi.
Yes, nice to hear, the printer can me made to produce some very good prints, just after a few essential upgrades
The motor mounts on my X5S are thicker than yours, but I found I could still move them a little when I pulled on the belts. I did this mod, among others. ua-cam.com/video/YEo1ifQWC6E/v-deo.html It really helped to stabilize the gantry. I also did some work on the carriage wheels and pulleys.