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Tronxy X5SA 3d printer ultimate upgrades!
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2018
- HI Guys! Today I will show you all kinds of upgrades that I installed on my Tronxy X5SA 3D printer. I upgrade my 3d printer with with Plexiglas Enclosure, E3D V6 hot end, Titan extruder, AC Silicon heater pad(600W), Heat-bed Insulation, New X and Y carriage, Solid state relay, power supply, new rubber belts, GT2 pulleys, frame corner brackets, Stepper motor dampers, Heat sinks, Temperature gauge and other... All the links and info are down below:
Get the Tronxy X5SA 3D printer from:
Aliexpress - bit.ly/2lEbs9a
Banggood - bit.ly/2lEQyqm
Amazon - amzn.to/2ZHRtJ9
Get the new upgraded Tronxy X5SA PRO
From Amazon - amzn.to/33O9Vi3
From Banggood - bit.ly/354z6x2
From Aliexpress - bit.ly/33QoGkf
Upgrade parts in video:
E3D clone V6 hot-end - goo.gl/xbjjL5
E3D V6 hot-end sock - s.click.aliexpr...
Titan clone extruder - s.click.aliexpr...
Stepper Dampers - s.click.aliexpr...
Rubber Timing Belt - s.click.aliexpr...
Belts springs - s.click.aliexpr...
Stepper Heatsinks - s.click.aliexpr...
Power supply 12V 15A - s.click.aliexpr...
Case fan 50mm - s.click.aliexpr...
Turbo fan - s.click.aliexpr...
HeatBed insulation - s.click.aliexpr...
600W Heat-bed heater - s.click.aliexpr...
Solid state relay - s.click.aliexpr...
Gt2 belt pulleys - s.click.aliexpr...
PEI sheet 305x305 - s.click.aliexpr...
20x20 extrusion - s.click.aliexpr...
LED lights - s.click.aliexpr...
Enclosure screws - s.click.aliexpr...
Enclosure T-nut - s.click.aliexpr...
M3 screws - s.click.aliexpr...
20x20 corner braket - s.click.aliexpr...
Printable upgrade parts :
Tronxy X5SA Firmware fff S3D file, G codes and all STL upgrade parts on google drive!
drive.google.c...
Source STL files from Thingiverse:
E3D V6 carrige - www.thingivers...
E3D V6 carrige parts - www.thingivers...
E3D v6 simple - www.thingivers...
X and Y carrige - www.thingivers...
Duct air - www.thingivers...
Sensor mount - www.thingivers...
Hinge - www.thingivers...
Corner bracket - www.thingivers...
SSR cover - www.thingivers...
Door handle - www.thingivers...
Spool holder - www.thingivers...
Enclosure dimensions:
Base and top panel is 500 x 470mm x2 (Plexiglas and 4mm glass)
Back panel is 500mm x 540mm x1
Side panels:
600 x 420mm x2 (Better is 420mm, mine in video is only 400mm)
600 x 40mm x4
600 x 30mm x4
Door panel 487 x 528mm x1
(extra top) enclosure:
Left and right panel 459 x 96mm x2
Upper front and back panel 540 x 129mm x2
All Plexiglas is 4mm
Please double check your dimensions just to be sure!
I will update all dimensions and list of all Re-mix parts as soon as possible!
Popular Online retailers:
Amazon.com - amzn.to/3k08g0K
Amazon.ca - amzn.to/3c3efiJ
Amazon.de - amzn.to/3rnvj9l
Amazon.co.uk - amzn.to/3blB2qY
Amazon.se - amzn.to/3bhU55l
Aliexpress - bit.ly/2GWF50w
Banggood - bit.ly/2T0R8fG
Ebay - ebay.us/OJuoTs
Cheap filament for 3D printer:
PLA filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K6U99U
On Banggood - bit.ly/2pZSiwK
PETG filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/36RHEsz
on Aliexpress - goo.gl/8Cfsrb
ABS Filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K5S4LH
On Banggood - bit.ly/2CurLuc
Gear that I use for my videos:
www.nexi-tech.c...
You like what I do? Support me on Patreon
/ nexi_tech
I put a lot of effort and time in my videos and I would appreciate if you click on the ''Like'' and ''subscribe'' button.
Thank you so much for your support.
Best Regards!
Nexi
Hi Guys! If you missed my Tronxy X5SA review video here it is: ua-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/v-deo.html
Have you ever had salmon skin with this printer? Either before or after these upgrades?
Ian Isaak Not at all.
This printer don't leave any salmon skin on the prints surface.
Hello friend! when will there be more improvements to this printer? for example, a double extruder for gradient printing?
@Nexi Tech what must have mods would you say are the most important to get this printer performing the best it can? function over form?
@@redkurn ок
Ok, so I watched some videos by some other guys reviewing this thing and they basically trashed it but you have taken a turd and polished it well. I was looking for something less expensive than a CR10S5 in the same general size b/c even with their higher price I was still looking at dropping $600 in add-ons and and changes to a brand new unit. This video gives me great hope that I can take a much less expensive base unit and flip it into a very nice unit as you have. Thank you for posting this video!
Your workmanship and attention to detail is Impressive, as is the quality of your video production! Very professional in every aspect. The content is also very interesting and I'll wager that quite a few Tronxy X5SA printers will be sold because of it. I am already subscribed or I would sign up immediately. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for such a nice and positive comment Dave! People like you give me straight and positive energy to continue my hard work and stay on You-tube. I wish you all best my dear friend!
P.S. I also made video review for this printer fell free to check it! I think that you will found it very interesting.
Thank you for the reply! I wasn't sure that you read the comments but am pleased to find out that you do! I have already looked over your content and found all your great Tronxy X5 videos. Now I will watch your Creality CR-10 offerings since that is the only printer I have at this time and I want to learn whatever I can from you. Thanks again for what you do.
Ditto on what Dave Grandeffo said.
I know I am about to buy an X5SA Pro based on this video.
@@devinmulrooney me too!!!
Thank you for your work, sir! I just ordered the Tronxy X5SA, and the deciding factor was this video. The machine will be used to teach 3d printing to kids, and I will keep you informed of their progress. Thanks again!
You nailed pretty much all of the exact upgrades I had planned for this (silicone heater, enclosure, V6) plus quite a few more that are very sensible. I'm pretty sure you just sold me on buying another printer.
Thank you so much for your through videos you posted on this printer. I did in fact order it and received it yesterday and while I wanted to emulate what you were able to accomplished with this printer I have decided to return it. Because of you videos I did a very through inspection out of the box. Oddly enough it unpacked itself, I believe it was either an open box or someone opened the printer box itself as when I opened the shipping box the inner box was open an I found parts strewn about inside. I could however see they upgraded many of the issues you pointed out in the first video with the exception of an eye for quality. As I looked at it, all that would have been usable was a frame. For starters the flange bearings for the heater bed carriage were deformed, the extruder was not aligned or was bent but what was even more scary was when I opened up the electronic box to find wires loose and not landed correctly! This printer would have fried the moment I flipped the switch for the first time!!! However I can confirm they upgraded the bed wiring to 14 awg. LOL While I had high hopes of MODing this into a IDEX platform I felt the money and time it would take just to get this thing to print was better off being spent on a different printer. So I requested a return, corrected the wiring so when they send this out to some other person they don't get electrocuted and boxed it up and took your advice on another platform the QIDI TECH X-Max and ordered it up.When I started to add up what it would have taken to get to this printer to where I want it to be, I believe I'll actually save money as they got a 100.00 coupon on Amazon. Had you not alerted us/me I would have none the wiser that I was walking into a nightmare! THANK YOU AGAIN SIR!
Several things I want to point out to those following this awesome guide. If you're in the US or where country uses 110-120, you will need a different bed heater, as that is effectively connecting right to the wall. It's mentioned elsewhere in the comments but you want the 120v 500w one from the options in that link. Nothing else should be different.
I had an issue where once I chose to heat the hotend it would go into shut down mode but just stay stuck there. What the issue was is the PSU was still in the 220V mode even though it was still able to power the printer on. I'm used to computer PSUs or old ones where if the switch was wring it would fry the unit. This is not the case. The yellow sticker pointing to the switch is fairly obvious and the knob should be on the 110v side which is printed on the PCB.
Once I did that I was able to power the hotend no problem.
I then experienced and issue with the hotbed that wasn't heating. I checked the control wires going to the SSR and seemed like they had voltage going through them. Since it's a DC input I thought I'd switched them over and it worked.
I thought it was weird since I though the old bed was AC power and it does not have negative or positive nodes. After doing DC for so long AC is a bit confusing to me.
For the pulleys I was also able to get the same ones on amazon for the same price because the ones from Aliexpress hadn't shown up after a couple of months.
Make sure you get nuts for them to put under the pulleys. This will give a nice lock to the base so it doesn't move around but still allow the pulleys to spin freely.
One question I have is if the bed output is AC, why did switching the wires work to solve the input problem? Also, why wasn't an AA SSR used that uses AC input to close the circuit?
Still have a few things to do on this build. Will need to properly mount the new PSU, replace the extruder, add the lights, and build the encloser.
Many thanks to Nexi, this has been awesome to follow and the improvement is drastic.
Hi again ....I commented the other day on this review and after subscribing I realised that some time ago it was your review that was a decision maker for me on the Anycubic Photon I purchased this machine and everything you said was right. Its an impressive piece of kit, how they can manufacture something so good for the price point is amazing to say the least. I have had issues with all the various Resin settings but am slowly getting there as it is a different learning curve albeit a shorter one. I own 4 FDM machines 2 of which I am selling and replacing with the X5SA and your suggested upgrades. Keep up the good work oh and thanks again
paul w Thank you so much for your comment Paul! I'm very happy that you like my videos and found it usefull. Thanks to people like you and your positive energy and feedbacks I'm still posting videos on UA-cam. Best regards man! I wish you all the best!
Yet another brilliant Video. I have ordered this machine and will look forward to doing the upgrades. Thank you for such concise and understandable content. Not only have you spent a lot of time producing the video you have made the parts lists and all the other information that any one could possibly need. This really is very well done. Thanks !!
paul w Thank you so much for mate! I really appreciate your comment. Best regards
Excellent workmanship and fine tuning of the printer. Awesome results! Congratulations!!!
Thank you so much man! I appreciate it :) Cheers!
The attention to detail in this video is absolutely astounding.
Al L Thank you so much!
By the way. I commend you on your absolute attention to detail!!! Your links are put together nicely and very thorough. About time someone showed some passion for what they do. Have a great day
Thank you so much Brad! I' very happy that you liked my video and you noticed my crazy attention to details :D Best regards man! I wish you all the best
Loved the video. Very informative! I just ordered this printer from Amazon, so I am looking forward to this fun build.
Great work. I love your work arounds with what a lot of reviewers are calling a junk printer. A few mods and you are getting awesome prints. Please keep the videos coming
Peter Humm Thanks for your comment Peter! I agree :)
Excellent video. I would love to see this machine printing engineering parts from PETG, ABS or POLYCARBONATE.
I got an X5S recently and the first thing I did was to put in a Duet WiFi board. I would highly recommend doing this as the Trinamic drivers make the printer run almost silently.
Wow impressive. The low brand machine are turned in high brand machine!
Thanks so much for posting the firmware gcodes as well. Really saved my bacon after I upgraded to the Titan extruder. Thanks!
kwanyeazy No problem my friend! I'm glad that I helped :) Thanks for stopping by
NOTE: When installing the Solid State Relay notice that the DC input polarity (+ and -) is important. The polarity is not marked on the green Heated Bed connector on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to determine the polarity coming from the connector by going to Pre Heat on the touch screen and turning on the Heated Bed (but not Hot End). If you have your probes reversed you will see a -12 volts displayed. On my motherboard the positive was on the left, negative was on the right. I swapped in a black wire for negative so I could easily tell the difference in the future (14 guage to match, but not necessarily required since current draw much less now).
...just an update on Heated Bed upgrade... I stuck the 600W Bed Heater to the aluminum bed using 3M backing (500W in my case, since I bought the one that works with 120V - RMS from my wall measures 126V, so I picked that model of Bed Heater from the AliExpress link Nexi provided). The Bed Heater has a thermistor in its center, so I removed the original thermistor that came with the printer. Hooked up the new thermistor wires to the old thermistor wiring (so I could re-use the motherboard connector). Them I wired the AC and DC connections for the Solid State Relay and to the Power Supply AC screws as diagrammed in that other thread). I ran a Pre-Heat from the Control Panel to 60 C bed heat and it measured perfectly at the center of the aluminum plate. I put the plate on top of the Headbed Insulation (hadn't glued it on with Silicone yet) and cranked up the Pre-Heat to 100 C. Very fast heat-up and perfect reading. There is a few degrees fall-off around the edge of the plate, but to be expected in an open environment and such a large plate.
I put the Silicone Sealant on the back of the Bed Heater and secured the sheet of Heatbed Insulation. Silicone sealant takes 24 hours to cure, so I will re-assemble my printer then. Love these upgrades - Thank You So Much Nexi !!!
@@stevehiemstra8514 Did you need to get a different SSR than the one mentioned? One for 120V out?
Been a fan of your videos since the anet a8. This is really impressive and inspiring.
magnum696 Thank you so much mate! Only true fans knows about my Anet A8 :)
Wow simply an awesome modified printer! Would you say that you spent $600-800 (USD) for the entire setup? The fact that you're making this to handle Polycarbonate with carbon fiber is a step in the pro-level printing. I really love how you went with an AC 600w heated bed with the solid-state relay. I guess you don't need to have a 24v power supply for the hot-end because of the AC heated bed. The only things I thought you would have changed is having the controller outside of the enclosure.
I have a highly modifed Tevo Tarantula (i3 clone), but I really enjoy seeing what people have made with their TronXY printers. I really envy the cube frame which is more stiff.
I just got this printer, I started with the baby Groot as well why not. I found the video helpful ty
Ordered an x5sa-400 thanks to you! Thanks for the awesome content!
You got me convinced, the prints looks amazing!
Really found this useful. I just bought a x5sa-400. I wish we were neighbors! Keep up the good work. Don't work too hard.......Joe
Is it working for you? My x5sa always messes up with the z-offset. I cannot set it correctly.
At very beginning it's very tricky to set it up correctly, once you understand how it works there are no problem at all. First set buildplate correctly, then edjust Z offset. It's time consuming but very important.
Great and well timed video. Just finishing my build so will be doing some of these upgrades
Thanks! That's awesome Paul! Good luck with your printer! P.S. Check my X5SA review on the channel I mention important safety tip about main DC wires.
Absolutely fantastic job! I will be joining the crew with an X5SA Pro. I have already ordered the parts list based on this video and agree if you could share a wiring diagram or up to producing some of your build footage or a review of your wiring would be amazing. Thank you for all your efforts and finite detail.
You made great changes and I love it. I bought the Tronxy X5SA and when it arrive here in Brazil I'll do all the changes. Thank you for this video.
Eder Martins No problem, I'm glad that you liked my video. Good luck with your machine! :)
Impressive results. I gonna probably do the same you did here. Thanks for sharing!
I will buy this printer for sure and most of the components for the upgrade.Thank you a lot.I think the GT2 Pulley are printable as well. They cost 20 bucks after all. (at least the ones with the teeth). The solid state relay is pretty expensive as well... the parts inside it cost 0.4$.
Now it is perfect printer and perfect product. 100% 👏
I really like your content Nexi Tech! You know how to tweak the printer, so every time you review something I'm sure you push the machine to its quality limits. Another very important thing is how you showcase printed objects. I really miss that on the channels from the other youtubers. Detailed closeups in good light is the key to judge the printer and you always have it at the end! Time lapses are nice to watch but technically they don't add much value. Keep it like that - I'm more than happy to subscribe! Ps. Which printer you experienced (not necessarily reviewed) as print quality killer? I look for something FDM better than my anycubic I3 mega in terms of precision printing only.
Great Video and amazing job on all the upgrades!! I just my Tronxy X5SA and have ordered most of the upgrades you suggested in the 1st video, but I was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect some of the electrical upgrades such as the mosfit and Solid state relay, as I am new to doing such mod. Thanks in advance!!
What and amazing job you did! Excellent video!
Share that all with TronXY so they can make the ultimate printer!
Now THIS is how the pro should have been done.
Hello, could you share the print slicer profile? many thanks!
Nexi, first of all, I have to say your channel is one of the most detailed, helpful, 3D printer channels I've ever come across. Thanks for sharing all the hard work. Definitely gained a subscriber.
A couple quick questions for you: 1) Does your modified X5SA print any faster than any of the comparable cartesian printers? (Tornado/ CR-10/ Chiron/ etc.)
2) What are your thoughts about core XY vs. Delta printers vs. Cartesian are far as speed? The published specs are usually ~ the same, but every comparison between the delta and cartesian, the delta wins. I can't find any comparisons between core xy & delta. (Assumes comparable finish quality for the speed tests).
Thanks!
Thanks. Looks great
Am glad you like it :) Cheers!
I just ordered Tronxy X5SA pro model. Will go through the mods once I get it. I think they already added some of the features you mentioned in your unboxing/installation video. I will try to make this enclosure and heat bed upgrade sure.
Excellent Video and links. That's a lot of work. Well done!
This is making me want to switch from my Artillery SW-X1. I love the build volume on it, but with a tall print it has to go so slow, and the heavy bed causes a lot of ringing.
Just got mine the tronxy x5sa-400 for about $340 I am beyond impressed the machine is prity impressive especially having a heated bed at 400mm^3
Hey Nexi, do you have a diagram as to how you wired the SSR? Currently upgrading the heat bed on it. Thanks
Very well done. Good job! Have you considered a mainboard upgrade?
i got this printer a coupe months back. how about an update video on your upgrades, what changes you did or did not make.
What about connecting the 2 "Z" motors with a timing belt at the bottom to stop them from becoming different heights? It would have to be a closed timing belt, I have a source for all the parts needed for mine except for a way to mount a tensioner for the belt.
You have done an excellent job on tuning that printer in, but with such a build volume I'm a little disappointed that all you show is a tiny phone stand. I would like to see a nice time lapse of that printing something at near it's capacity. Impressive as usual though, thanks for sharing Nexi.
Kevin Schofield Hi Kevin! Thank you for your comment I'm glad that you liked my video and that you appreciate my work. Well that mobile stand is only quick speed/stability test for ABS and PLA filament and 3D Benchy is just a quck print quality test.
I already made full review for this 3D printer and I show alot of time lapses and printed models like Huge pyramid, Robots, lamp, Terminator 2 Arm etc. Please check video if you missed it
ua-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/v-deo.html
Oh yeah, I forgot about those. That Pyramid and Terminator arm do count, but those were before all the UPGRADES. You got priorities now, you need formula more than filament.:-)
love your videos! keep it up man
Timo Wey Thanks man! :)
Hi Nexi
I liked you video about 3D printing machine. Every review I watch about 3D machines in the end, they tell you this is the a good one. My question is, what I need to look for if I want to buy one. Thanks again.
Mate you have to start from something. Get one 3D printer for example CR10S PRO, Ender 3 or Ender 5. When you learn more about 3d printers in few mounts of use you will know to answer yourself.
when you printed the x,y upgrade where did you move the senior too that was beside the extruder?
Subscribed 10/10. Appreciate all the content and knowledge shared.
Would you recommend duel color on this model I had a blob and my wife ripped the wires for the heater on the filament so I was thinking titan but ran across dual color titan
Love how it looks after the upgrades!!
Which on do you reccomend... this TronXy or the CR-10S Pro?? I like them both and very interested in your opinion please!!
When installing your ac hot bed did you have to change anything in the software to reconise a higher temp ie 120c also would it be posible for a install vid on the ac hot bed
Great mods, I’m considering this printer, thank you!
Mike Taylor You welcome Mike! Thanks for stopping by.
P.S. On my channel you have X5SA review video before all these upgrades.
Great Video!
Did anyone has assemble a BONDTECH extruder on this 3D printer?
Your a genius. Best video on the tube
Thanks buddy!
wow... 1st impressions is it looks great.... now to watch more than 1st 5 seconds.
can you plug in a second nozzle owith this kind of setup you have or not. i mean could you upgrade your printer to an dual extruder one or not
There is a factory dual nozzle version, so upgrade is probably possible.
I couldn't find it. What rubber tubing did you use with the plexiglass?
I have tronoxy x5sa but Why the proximity sensor not work with me it look like didn't save the z offset can any one help me ? And can I change the frameware in this printer or no please help .
1:30 I can't find the vertical pieces you used in the corners, can you please share a link??
i am having issues with the z alignment sensor. It seems to be off? Did you have any issues with the auto home in z?
How do you talk about glass for 3 minutes. That's the most impressive thing ever
whao ! It's just crazy ! I have the same machine but everything is sooooo complicated for me to print. How much time and money do I need to transforme my machine like that for PLA please ? I'm a beginner..
So in other words you totally rebuilt the machine
Nice too. Ive been watching 1000s of video as i want a 3D printer creality CR10 S5 500X500X500 is the size but to get it to produce decent multi filaments and modifications needed is still out my price rang the X5SA is a 2nd gen printer and very similar to creality nice video love the glass and plastics nice job
Are you an engineer? Very nicely done!! Impressive. It really shows you have high standards and you have a keen eye for intricate details. Very impressed with what you have done. I am about to buy this printer. I've saved your video for future reference when the printer gets delivered. I am curious as to where can I get that thermal gun you use during the printing test....? Can you share a link? Thanks again and keep up the great work. Best regards, Rob
Rob Fern Well I could be one but in school I would not get knowledge and skills that I have now and I would not learn about 3D printers and so many other things that I know thanks to the web. Knowledge is all over the net and thanks to brilliant people all over the world so you only need time and will to learn what ever interests you :)
Thanks Rob! Yes of course here it is. I made video about that Thermal gun. ua-cam.com/video/5HcpL8BNyZw/v-deo.html
Best regards
Nexi
This is the nicest tronxy x5s build I have seen so far! I have the x5st but I can't get the auto levelling to work, do you know what needs to be done to activate it?
I don't own one but from what I've read make sure the bed is heated.. people say its a rookie mistake to auto-level a bed that's not heated at the time of leveling.
Thanks for the video. I just got done building this printer and thought Great I'm done... Guess not.
What can i do if want have quiter stepper motor? If only move z-axis, there is big voice. I dont know if come from motors or another vibrations. I also noticed, that on board is regulator near stepper driver. That regulator change voltage to motors?
Thank you Nexi
Pelican Archive You welcome my friend.
Great work, do you have any experience with Tronxy VEHO 1000??? any upgrades???? if anyone know anything would like any idea about,,thanks
if you still use it take out spring belt tensioner use only manual steady tensioner for better guality (when printer move fast spring make worse quality)
Hey there, Great video very informative. I am planning on picking up an X5SA soon and wanted to get the belts and pulleys upgraded when I first put it together. I was wondering what length of GT2 belt is required, how many toothed pulleys and smooth pulleys are required and if the inner diameter of the pulleys is 3mm or 5mm. Thanks for the video and keep up the great content!
good question.. I'd like to know this myself.. are the original pulleys and belt not good though? I feel like he swapped them out because he already had them laying around.
I'm not sure if this has been asked already, I wish I could search key words in the comments. Does anyone know how he hooked up the heating bed to the SSR?
Hello, what is the differences between X5S and X5SA ? For example on the X5S is famous the heated bed is not working and have to buy a dedicated power supply of 24V for make it heat up. Here on the X5SA is the same? Seems like they upgrade/fix some issues from the X5S and named X5SA but what they update?
Thanks
Or by the way why the X5SA it cost 60$ more that the X5S ? On the gearbest site they have same features. Thanks
do you think the E3D V6 clone is good? or should I spend the extra for an original?
Its great that you made a new video! My X5SA unfortunately caught on fire and now I am trying to fight for replacement parts from GearBest >.
Thanks man! Oh no! I sorry for your X5SA! I guess that you did not see my review video where I mention important safety tip about this machine. Main DC wires are too thin to carry the continuous load and they get pretty hot. That heat is then transferred to mother board and power supply which can get damaged. You need to ether add one more DC wire or to place wires on the side (inside) aluminum extrusions to work as huge heat-sink.
Nexi Tech I actually had it wired similar to yours, with the wires inside the frame to dissipate the heat. I also wasn't using the heat bed which it also baffles me that it did what it did.
Justin Lincoln When you change wiring you should always verify connections and verify voltage drop on each wire ( put millivolt meter in parallel to see voltage drop. No more then 2% drop 12v. = 0.24V drop). Probe on +12v PSU and +12V on load
Didn't change wiring, the stock wires that came with printer caught on fire. Was running everything 100% stock at the time and I guess Tronxy just doesn't want people to know their setups catch on fire lol
I upgraded the power supply and heatbed wiring after Nexi’s original video. Mine caught on fire too first time I turned it on, but in my case it was the hotend heat cartridge and its wiring. Tronxy sent me a replacement, but I used a standard spare that I had.
My biggest two problems with this printer are - weak hotend/unreliable extruder feed, and bed levelling - there are no Z-stop switches, so the heated bed seems to lose its level with every print, as the two stepper motors get out of sync. I have to do an auto level before every print. Can Z-stop switches be added?
for the ac bed i l ive in canada so i use 110v ... i saw you ve connected a ground wire on the bed ... but where do you ground it from .. from the power suppply ac ground??? can you point me a good how to video on the relay connection o n the board side and the heat pad thx
Yes, you need 110V Heat-bed. You have link in video description. Yes, the ground wire is going from ground on AC power supply to the heat-bed.
Quite impressive. Is there anything that you would rate higher that this one, from what you use?
the carrdige at 7:49 looks nothing alike all the 3 carridges uploaded in the description from thingiverse ... can you please give the proper one ?
Excellent video
Will this printer allow dual extruder setup?
Nice video. I have a question for you regarding changing the value of the thermistor. I too am upgrading my X5SA to a E3D V6. It comes with a 100K thermistor, which I know is different from the stock thermistor. What code do I need to run to set the correct value in the firmware?
if you now add TMC2100 to it it would be near dead silent ^^
An absolutely superb review and superb set of upgrades.
NYLON
These modifications inspired some questions for printing in nylon, a much more resilient material, per reports.
To go further in the upgrades what would be recommended to print nylon, at the higher temperatures? Maybe all glass case? Recirculation fan to reduce temperature stratification in the print volume?
PRO version
What meaningful differences are there between the X5SA and the X5SA Pro?
MULTIPLE HEADS
My needs include the capacity to change materials/colours during a print, and thus multiple extruders each with its own nozzle, and, the need to CNC for PCB prototyping.
As most people agree that the TronXY X5SA is a wonderful platform for tool changing:
What mods have people tried in this direction?
Thx to all and especially, of course, to Nexi.
Cheers
xian
(Christian M)
Yo, can this printer print as many filaments as the Prusa?
Hey Nexi, any chance you'll upgrade to the quieter controller board?
Awesome build ! I purchased one myself not long .. Question : You changed the pulleys with GT2 16 teeth 5 mm ?
Fodor Cosmin Thanks man! Welcome to the club :)
No, I made mistake in video. It's Actuely GT2 20mm pulleys with 5mm bore for 6mm belts. But 16mm could work great as well.
Thank you for asking this question, I was just about to ask it myself. Excited to get my kit in the mail, making sure I have the easy upgrade parts for when it gets here. :)
Good night, when you closed the printer and started testing, did you have to make any changes to her firmawer? If possible, give me the firmawer you are using to have this quality and the slicer settings, I use Cura, do you also use it? I bought one just like yours, closed it and I'm still having trouble to have an excellent quality to produce my pieces. I appreciate your video and information about the printer. Actually I bought the 24V version, already updated and everything, Tronxy X5SA 24V, but it is little difference I believe.
good wave, been trying to put the firmware, but it does not make any change. can you help me
And what is your firmware? I have a maximum table temperature of 100 degrees. your 115 can be displayed. Why? TRONXY X5SA-v1.19 Colorful 0.8 What firmware do you have? And at what temperatures of the table and nozzle do you print PET plastic?
The link to the PEI sheet is still incorrect. It now leads to an aluminum frame kit.
Hi NExi, those door hinges. did you print them assembled or disassembled? If the latter, was it easy to retrofit? also what thermistor upgrade would be compatible for the X5SA pro or X5SA?
Hell of a useful video! Thank you!
Hello, thanks for great review and recommendations
Have you tried to upgrade X5SA with double extruder?
Awesome!
Is it possible to have the stl file for the spool holder?
Thanks!
Thanks mate! Sure here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1624641/files
never mind I figured it out. The default travel speed in cura is 120mm which is way too fast for this printer. I set it to 60 and haven't had an issue. since.
Rick Smart You got some problem with your machine. I can reach 200mm/s travel without any problem or any layer shift even with completely stock hardware with no mods on this machine. First check your X and Y movement's by hand are they move nice and smooth? Then double check all wheel bearings on aluminium extrusions. Then re-check bearings(pulleys). They all need to roll smooth and without drag. Maybe you over tight bearings on belts. Also last step re-check stepper drivers voltages. Set them to 0.9V.
@@NexiTech hey,
I had already checked all of that and then again. I was about to send it back but after doing a little digging on reddit a user suggested I turn the travel speed down and it worked like a dream. Also i dont know how to change the voltage of my stepper motors. Do you have a tutorial? Thanks for getting back to me so fast as well.
I believe american plugs don't have a fuse, so I guess they're safe (not really that safe haha)
However every wall socket usually has its own circuit to the circuit breaker.
Cool. If you compare this printer to the cr10s pro, which one do you prefer before/after mods?
Hej. Snyggt jobbat fick mycket info till men eget bygget. Håller på bygga egen Railcore skrivare vad skulle rekommendera för att kunna skriva abs?
Did you have any trouble connecting to Cura via usb? I cant seem to detect the printer and ive tried using all com ports and still nothing any help would be awesome. Great video! and Tronxy must have listened to you they added butterfly nuts for the bed and way better Y and X bearings on my kit i just got. Thanks.