Your workmanship and attention to detail is Impressive, as is the quality of your video production! Very professional in every aspect. The content is also very interesting and I'll wager that quite a few Tronxy X5SA printers will be sold because of it. I am already subscribed or I would sign up immediately. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for such a nice and positive comment Dave! People like you give me straight and positive energy to continue my hard work and stay on You-tube. I wish you all best my dear friend! P.S. I also made video review for this printer fell free to check it! I think that you will found it very interesting.
Thank you for the reply! I wasn't sure that you read the comments but am pleased to find out that you do! I have already looked over your content and found all your great Tronxy X5 videos. Now I will watch your Creality CR-10 offerings since that is the only printer I have at this time and I want to learn whatever I can from you. Thanks again for what you do.
Ok, so I watched some videos by some other guys reviewing this thing and they basically trashed it but you have taken a turd and polished it well. I was looking for something less expensive than a CR10S5 in the same general size b/c even with their higher price I was still looking at dropping $600 in add-ons and and changes to a brand new unit. This video gives me great hope that I can take a much less expensive base unit and flip it into a very nice unit as you have. Thank you for posting this video!
Thank you for your work, sir! I just ordered the Tronxy X5SA, and the deciding factor was this video. The machine will be used to teach 3d printing to kids, and I will keep you informed of their progress. Thanks again!
Yet another brilliant Video. I have ordered this machine and will look forward to doing the upgrades. Thank you for such concise and understandable content. Not only have you spent a lot of time producing the video you have made the parts lists and all the other information that any one could possibly need. This really is very well done. Thanks !!
You nailed pretty much all of the exact upgrades I had planned for this (silicone heater, enclosure, V6) plus quite a few more that are very sensible. I'm pretty sure you just sold me on buying another printer.
By the way. I commend you on your absolute attention to detail!!! Your links are put together nicely and very thorough. About time someone showed some passion for what they do. Have a great day
Thank you so much Brad! I' very happy that you liked my video and you noticed my crazy attention to details :D Best regards man! I wish you all the best
Hi again ....I commented the other day on this review and after subscribing I realised that some time ago it was your review that was a decision maker for me on the Anycubic Photon I purchased this machine and everything you said was right. Its an impressive piece of kit, how they can manufacture something so good for the price point is amazing to say the least. I have had issues with all the various Resin settings but am slowly getting there as it is a different learning curve albeit a shorter one. I own 4 FDM machines 2 of which I am selling and replacing with the X5SA and your suggested upgrades. Keep up the good work oh and thanks again
paul w Thank you so much for your comment Paul! I'm very happy that you like my videos and found it usefull. Thanks to people like you and your positive energy and feedbacks I'm still posting videos on UA-cam. Best regards man! I wish you all the best!
Thank you so much for your through videos you posted on this printer. I did in fact order it and received it yesterday and while I wanted to emulate what you were able to accomplished with this printer I have decided to return it. Because of you videos I did a very through inspection out of the box. Oddly enough it unpacked itself, I believe it was either an open box or someone opened the printer box itself as when I opened the shipping box the inner box was open an I found parts strewn about inside. I could however see they upgraded many of the issues you pointed out in the first video with the exception of an eye for quality. As I looked at it, all that would have been usable was a frame. For starters the flange bearings for the heater bed carriage were deformed, the extruder was not aligned or was bent but what was even more scary was when I opened up the electronic box to find wires loose and not landed correctly! This printer would have fried the moment I flipped the switch for the first time!!! However I can confirm they upgraded the bed wiring to 14 awg. LOL While I had high hopes of MODing this into a IDEX platform I felt the money and time it would take just to get this thing to print was better off being spent on a different printer. So I requested a return, corrected the wiring so when they send this out to some other person they don't get electrocuted and boxed it up and took your advice on another platform the QIDI TECH X-Max and ordered it up.When I started to add up what it would have taken to get to this printer to where I want it to be, I believe I'll actually save money as they got a 100.00 coupon on Amazon. Had you not alerted us/me I would have none the wiser that I was walking into a nightmare! THANK YOU AGAIN SIR!
Great work. I love your work arounds with what a lot of reviewers are calling a junk printer. A few mods and you are getting awesome prints. Please keep the videos coming
NOTE: When installing the Solid State Relay notice that the DC input polarity (+ and -) is important. The polarity is not marked on the green Heated Bed connector on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to determine the polarity coming from the connector by going to Pre Heat on the touch screen and turning on the Heated Bed (but not Hot End). If you have your probes reversed you will see a -12 volts displayed. On my motherboard the positive was on the left, negative was on the right. I swapped in a black wire for negative so I could easily tell the difference in the future (14 guage to match, but not necessarily required since current draw much less now).
...just an update on Heated Bed upgrade... I stuck the 600W Bed Heater to the aluminum bed using 3M backing (500W in my case, since I bought the one that works with 120V - RMS from my wall measures 126V, so I picked that model of Bed Heater from the AliExpress link Nexi provided). The Bed Heater has a thermistor in its center, so I removed the original thermistor that came with the printer. Hooked up the new thermistor wires to the old thermistor wiring (so I could re-use the motherboard connector). Them I wired the AC and DC connections for the Solid State Relay and to the Power Supply AC screws as diagrammed in that other thread). I ran a Pre-Heat from the Control Panel to 60 C bed heat and it measured perfectly at the center of the aluminum plate. I put the plate on top of the Headbed Insulation (hadn't glued it on with Silicone yet) and cranked up the Pre-Heat to 100 C. Very fast heat-up and perfect reading. There is a few degrees fall-off around the edge of the plate, but to be expected in an open environment and such a large plate. I put the Silicone Sealant on the back of the Bed Heater and secured the sheet of Heatbed Insulation. Silicone sealant takes 24 hours to cure, so I will re-assemble my printer then. Love these upgrades - Thank You So Much Nexi !!!
What about connecting the 2 "Z" motors with a timing belt at the bottom to stop them from becoming different heights? It would have to be a closed timing belt, I have a source for all the parts needed for mine except for a way to mount a tensioner for the belt.
I got an X5S recently and the first thing I did was to put in a Duet WiFi board. I would highly recommend doing this as the Trinamic drivers make the printer run almost silently.
Several things I want to point out to those following this awesome guide. If you're in the US or where country uses 110-120, you will need a different bed heater, as that is effectively connecting right to the wall. It's mentioned elsewhere in the comments but you want the 120v 500w one from the options in that link. Nothing else should be different. I had an issue where once I chose to heat the hotend it would go into shut down mode but just stay stuck there. What the issue was is the PSU was still in the 220V mode even though it was still able to power the printer on. I'm used to computer PSUs or old ones where if the switch was wring it would fry the unit. This is not the case. The yellow sticker pointing to the switch is fairly obvious and the knob should be on the 110v side which is printed on the PCB. Once I did that I was able to power the hotend no problem. I then experienced and issue with the hotbed that wasn't heating. I checked the control wires going to the SSR and seemed like they had voltage going through them. Since it's a DC input I thought I'd switched them over and it worked. I thought it was weird since I though the old bed was AC power and it does not have negative or positive nodes. After doing DC for so long AC is a bit confusing to me. For the pulleys I was also able to get the same ones on amazon for the same price because the ones from Aliexpress hadn't shown up after a couple of months. Make sure you get nuts for them to put under the pulleys. This will give a nice lock to the base so it doesn't move around but still allow the pulleys to spin freely. One question I have is if the bed output is AC, why did switching the wires work to solve the input problem? Also, why wasn't an AA SSR used that uses AC input to close the circuit? Still have a few things to do on this build. Will need to properly mount the new PSU, replace the extruder, add the lights, and build the encloser. Many thanks to Nexi, this has been awesome to follow and the improvement is drastic.
Wow simply an awesome modified printer! Would you say that you spent $600-800 (USD) for the entire setup? The fact that you're making this to handle Polycarbonate with carbon fiber is a step in the pro-level printing. I really love how you went with an AC 600w heated bed with the solid-state relay. I guess you don't need to have a 24v power supply for the hot-end because of the AC heated bed. The only things I thought you would have changed is having the controller outside of the enclosure. I have a highly modifed Tevo Tarantula (i3 clone), but I really enjoy seeing what people have made with their TronXY printers. I really envy the cube frame which is more stiff.
whao ! It's just crazy ! I have the same machine but everything is sooooo complicated for me to print. How much time and money do I need to transforme my machine like that for PLA please ? I'm a beginner..
At very beginning it's very tricky to set it up correctly, once you understand how it works there are no problem at all. First set buildplate correctly, then edjust Z offset. It's time consuming but very important.
Would you recommend duel color on this model I had a blob and my wife ripped the wires for the heater on the filament so I was thinking titan but ran across dual color titan
This is making me want to switch from my Artillery SW-X1. I love the build volume on it, but with a tall print it has to go so slow, and the heavy bed causes a lot of ringing.
When installing your ac hot bed did you have to change anything in the software to reconise a higher temp ie 120c also would it be posible for a install vid on the ac hot bed
Good night, when you closed the printer and started testing, did you have to make any changes to her firmawer? If possible, give me the firmawer you are using to have this quality and the slicer settings, I use Cura, do you also use it? I bought one just like yours, closed it and I'm still having trouble to have an excellent quality to produce my pieces. I appreciate your video and information about the printer. Actually I bought the 24V version, already updated and everything, Tronxy X5SA 24V, but it is little difference I believe.
What can i do if want have quiter stepper motor? If only move z-axis, there is big voice. I dont know if come from motors or another vibrations. I also noticed, that on board is regulator near stepper driver. That regulator change voltage to motors?
I will buy this printer for sure and most of the components for the upgrade.Thank you a lot.I think the GT2 Pulley are printable as well. They cost 20 bucks after all. (at least the ones with the teeth). The solid state relay is pretty expensive as well... the parts inside it cost 0.4$.
Hello, what is the differences between X5S and X5SA ? For example on the X5S is famous the heated bed is not working and have to buy a dedicated power supply of 24V for make it heat up. Here on the X5SA is the same? Seems like they upgrade/fix some issues from the X5S and named X5SA but what they update? Thanks
This is the nicest tronxy x5s build I have seen so far! I have the x5st but I can't get the auto levelling to work, do you know what needs to be done to activate it?
I don't own one but from what I've read make sure the bed is heated.. people say its a rookie mistake to auto-level a bed that's not heated at the time of leveling.
You have done an excellent job on tuning that printer in, but with such a build volume I'm a little disappointed that all you show is a tiny phone stand. I would like to see a nice time lapse of that printing something at near it's capacity. Impressive as usual though, thanks for sharing Nexi.
Kevin Schofield Hi Kevin! Thank you for your comment I'm glad that you liked my video and that you appreciate my work. Well that mobile stand is only quick speed/stability test for ABS and PLA filament and 3D Benchy is just a quck print quality test. I already made full review for this 3D printer and I show alot of time lapses and printed models like Huge pyramid, Robots, lamp, Terminator 2 Arm etc. Please check video if you missed it ua-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/v-deo.html
Oh yeah, I forgot about those. That Pyramid and Terminator arm do count, but those were before all the UPGRADES. You got priorities now, you need formula more than filament.:-)
HI, I'm italian, I have same printer... you made amaizing work...I notice you print very fast... and your upgrade Guarantee high temperature.. can you make me some suggestion to do the same? I hate some things of this printer... like fan.... hotend fun make flow hot on printer plate...so I used like termic scotch to prevent this...but nozzle ventilation (right fan) make impossible to print petg..beacouse move all micro filament extruded evrywhere... I need print petg, rubber, nylon, carbon.... possibly using 0.4 nozzle.... but using petg I can't print fast than 25 mm/s... can you help me? ....please...
for the ac bed i l ive in canada so i use 110v ... i saw you ve connected a ground wire on the bed ... but where do you ground it from .. from the power suppply ac ground??? can you point me a good how to video on the relay connection o n the board side and the heat pad thx
I'm not sure if this has been asked already, I wish I could search key words in the comments. Does anyone know how he hooked up the heating bed to the SSR?
Absolutely fantastic job! I will be joining the crew with an X5SA Pro. I have already ordered the parts list based on this video and agree if you could share a wiring diagram or up to producing some of your build footage or a review of your wiring would be amazing. Thank you for all your efforts and finite detail.
I really like your content Nexi Tech! You know how to tweak the printer, so every time you review something I'm sure you push the machine to its quality limits. Another very important thing is how you showcase printed objects. I really miss that on the channels from the other youtubers. Detailed closeups in good light is the key to judge the printer and you always have it at the end! Time lapses are nice to watch but technically they don't add much value. Keep it like that - I'm more than happy to subscribe! Ps. Which printer you experienced (not necessarily reviewed) as print quality killer? I look for something FDM better than my anycubic I3 mega in terms of precision printing only.
Hi NExi, those door hinges. did you print them assembled or disassembled? If the latter, was it easy to retrofit? also what thermistor upgrade would be compatible for the X5SA pro or X5SA?
Quick question hope you can help (please). my build is almost complete with all your upgrades however what is the wiring for the relay ? I see you have power leads into the relay and the thermistor wires out but how does the heat pad get power. Thanks ;-)
Sure Paul no problem, look at this picture. folgerforum.com/uploads/default/original/2X/4/45a2fd4840b3e1441b739cd726de192df9e0fef4.png Don't forget to add ground wire from heated bed to the ground terminal on DC power supply or on the AC switch. Good luck my friend!
Nexi, first of all, I have to say your channel is one of the most detailed, helpful, 3D printer channels I've ever come across. Thanks for sharing all the hard work. Definitely gained a subscriber. A couple quick questions for you: 1) Does your modified X5SA print any faster than any of the comparable cartesian printers? (Tornado/ CR-10/ Chiron/ etc.) 2) What are your thoughts about core XY vs. Delta printers vs. Cartesian are far as speed? The published specs are usually ~ the same, but every comparison between the delta and cartesian, the delta wins. I can't find any comparisons between core xy & delta. (Assumes comparable finish quality for the speed tests). Thanks!
Hi Nexi I liked you video about 3D printing machine. Every review I watch about 3D machines in the end, they tell you this is the a good one. My question is, what I need to look for if I want to buy one. Thanks again.
Mate you have to start from something. Get one 3D printer for example CR10S PRO, Ender 3 or Ender 5. When you learn more about 3d printers in few mounts of use you will know to answer yourself.
Great Video and amazing job on all the upgrades!! I just my Tronxy X5SA and have ordered most of the upgrades you suggested in the 1st video, but I was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect some of the electrical upgrades such as the mosfit and Solid state relay, as I am new to doing such mod. Thanks in advance!!
HI CONGRATULATIONS FOR THE ACCURATE REPORT THAT YOU MADE, I HAVE ALSO NA TRONXY X5SA, I'M LOOKING FOR A FIRMAWARE UPDATE BUT I HAVE NOT FOUND ANYTHING YOU CAN HELP ME?
I have tronoxy x5sa but Why the proximity sensor not work with me it look like didn't save the z offset can any one help me ? And can I change the frameware in this printer or no please help .
Love how it looks after the upgrades!! Which on do you reccomend... this TronXy or the CR-10S Pro?? I like them both and very interested in your opinion please!!
Fodor Cosmin Thanks man! Welcome to the club :) No, I made mistake in video. It's Actuely GT2 20mm pulleys with 5mm bore for 6mm belts. But 16mm could work great as well.
Thank you for asking this question, I was just about to ask it myself. Excited to get my kit in the mail, making sure I have the easy upgrade parts for when it gets here. :)
Hi! Thanks Your video! Please help me... Are you sticking a silicone heat-bed heater to the original heater-bed or have you bought an aluminim sheet? Thanks
Just stick it to the original Heater-bed, New heater has double side tape on it. Of course first remove all wires and old thermistor from old heater. New one has everything on it.
Nice video. I have a question for you regarding changing the value of the thermistor. I too am upgrading my X5SA to a E3D V6. It comes with a 100K thermistor, which I know is different from the stock thermistor. What code do I need to run to set the correct value in the firmware?
Thanks for the video. I am between the Tronxy X5S 500 and CR10S 500. What would you recommend between the two? I have no 3D printer experience, but am mechanically capable and think I could tinker with either one. They both seem very popular, but have noticed differences such as a cubed frame and belts vs lead screws between the two. Of these two models, what do you recommend? Thank you
spezzy To be honest none of them. You will have alot of problems leveling the bed that size on both machines. Auto level is a must have at that scale. Also both have 12V power supplies at that bed size?! That's not remotely enough. If you looking for large scale 3D printer I would strongly recomend that you go with X5SA(if you are willing to do upgrades) or Anycubic Chiron(I made final review not long) ua-cam.com/video/goY6slY4Ryc/v-deo.html
I completely agree with Nexi here and if large print size is important, I suggest the Chiron, too, as I’ve had much better experience with Anycubic than with Tronxy, both in the quality of the product and their service. Once you have your first printer easily working trouble-free, then you could consider modifying a Tronxy for your second printer, as the Core-XY mechanicals have an advantage, in theory, over the back-and-forth moving printbed of the Chiron. Nexi’s modifications make his Tronxy able to print with more exotic materials/higher temperatures - the enclosure is essential for this and the Tronxy’s design seems to suit it. If different materials and print size are less important and you’re looking for speed and quality, I recommend you get a Delta instead :) my first printer was the original Anycubic Kossel and I’m now very happy with my Kossel Linear Plus! Not usually recommended for a beginner but it was easy to set up, and it’s reliable - it is very useful for printing parts for my Tronxy :)
Thanks, what about using poly carbonate transparent sheets for enclosures (I am planning to do using PC, please let me know if there will be any issues)
I think that will be just fine. You can use pretty much anything to make enclosure sense all stepper motors are outside. Motherboard have cooling fan with good air flow so I don't think that will be a problem. Just make sure that you check my x5sa review on my channel I have mention very important safety tip about main DC wiring. You might need to upgrade wires.
Hi! The firmware on this printer can save the parameters you put into it? I know there's Gcodes to save all the input data, but some printers can't store it across reboots, so i'm asking. Also, i didn't really get if it can print through USB, as going up and down with the SD Card gets tiresome soon.
Hi, when you replaced you hotend, did you use the original thermistor or did you replace it? if you did replace it, did you have to make any modifications to the chitu firmware? thanks for the awesome video!!
Hi Mathieu, I have replaced the whole hot end with genuine V6 all metal hot end, including the stock heater and thermistor with V6 one from a Kit. You don't need to do any firmware modifications for the V6 thermistor as it's the standard 100kOhm as far as I know. Temperatures are very accurate I test it with my thermal camera but you do need to extend V6 heater and thermistor cable wires and solder them on stock cables and make them longer as they are to short.
Could you please explain a little more about pulleys improvement - specifically changing spring type washers to normal ones. I do not quite understand that part and I do not see a link for ordering washers. That is the only thing stopping me for going into this adventure.
cirilicar Well on X5SA kit you get the spring type washers which they never stay completely flat and Belts as they going left and right they sliding and rubbing the sides of top or bottom biger washers between the bearings. This create drag and it puts extra stress on stepper motors and it makes more noise. When I change the pulleys even on the stock printer the X and Y Movement was much smoother. P.S. There is no links for washers I buy them in hardware store.
@@NexiTech hello I was wanting to upgrade the pulleys like you did but you mentioned they were 15mm and the link only goes up to 5mm am I missing something? and exactly how many of each are required?
Loved your ideas!! I have a few I'm working on and would love to share them with you. I bought an E3D Hotend so When i downloaded your link for the Carriage with the E3D mount and opened it in Repetier it comes up with an error of not a manifold. When slicer does its thing its skin is gone and the insides remain. Please this looks to be the only good design for the carriage I see fixes all issues. Can you share a link for a corrected version since I'm new to this and just got my Tronxy
I just ordered Tronxy X5SA pro model. Will go through the mods once I get it. I think they already added some of the features you mentioned in your unboxing/installation video. I will try to make this enclosure and heat bed upgrade sure.
Did you have any trouble connecting to Cura via usb? I cant seem to detect the printer and ive tried using all com ports and still nothing any help would be awesome. Great video! and Tronxy must have listened to you they added butterfly nuts for the bed and way better Y and X bearings on my kit i just got. Thanks.
Hi Guys! If you missed my Tronxy X5SA review video here it is: ua-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/v-deo.html
Have you ever had salmon skin with this printer? Either before or after these upgrades?
Ian Isaak Not at all.
This printer don't leave any salmon skin on the prints surface.
Hello friend! when will there be more improvements to this printer? for example, a double extruder for gradient printing?
@Nexi Tech what must have mods would you say are the most important to get this printer performing the best it can? function over form?
@@redkurn ок
Your workmanship and attention to detail is Impressive, as is the quality of your video production! Very professional in every aspect. The content is also very interesting and I'll wager that quite a few Tronxy X5SA printers will be sold because of it. I am already subscribed or I would sign up immediately. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for such a nice and positive comment Dave! People like you give me straight and positive energy to continue my hard work and stay on You-tube. I wish you all best my dear friend!
P.S. I also made video review for this printer fell free to check it! I think that you will found it very interesting.
Thank you for the reply! I wasn't sure that you read the comments but am pleased to find out that you do! I have already looked over your content and found all your great Tronxy X5 videos. Now I will watch your Creality CR-10 offerings since that is the only printer I have at this time and I want to learn whatever I can from you. Thanks again for what you do.
Ditto on what Dave Grandeffo said.
I know I am about to buy an X5SA Pro based on this video.
@@devinmulrooney me too!!!
Ok, so I watched some videos by some other guys reviewing this thing and they basically trashed it but you have taken a turd and polished it well. I was looking for something less expensive than a CR10S5 in the same general size b/c even with their higher price I was still looking at dropping $600 in add-ons and and changes to a brand new unit. This video gives me great hope that I can take a much less expensive base unit and flip it into a very nice unit as you have. Thank you for posting this video!
Thank you for your work, sir! I just ordered the Tronxy X5SA, and the deciding factor was this video. The machine will be used to teach 3d printing to kids, and I will keep you informed of their progress. Thanks again!
Yet another brilliant Video. I have ordered this machine and will look forward to doing the upgrades. Thank you for such concise and understandable content. Not only have you spent a lot of time producing the video you have made the parts lists and all the other information that any one could possibly need. This really is very well done. Thanks !!
paul w Thank you so much for mate! I really appreciate your comment. Best regards
You nailed pretty much all of the exact upgrades I had planned for this (silicone heater, enclosure, V6) plus quite a few more that are very sensible. I'm pretty sure you just sold me on buying another printer.
The attention to detail in this video is absolutely astounding.
Al L Thank you so much!
Excellent workmanship and fine tuning of the printer. Awesome results! Congratulations!!!
Thank you so much man! I appreciate it :) Cheers!
By the way. I commend you on your absolute attention to detail!!! Your links are put together nicely and very thorough. About time someone showed some passion for what they do. Have a great day
Thank you so much Brad! I' very happy that you liked my video and you noticed my crazy attention to details :D Best regards man! I wish you all the best
Hi again ....I commented the other day on this review and after subscribing I realised that some time ago it was your review that was a decision maker for me on the Anycubic Photon I purchased this machine and everything you said was right. Its an impressive piece of kit, how they can manufacture something so good for the price point is amazing to say the least. I have had issues with all the various Resin settings but am slowly getting there as it is a different learning curve albeit a shorter one. I own 4 FDM machines 2 of which I am selling and replacing with the X5SA and your suggested upgrades. Keep up the good work oh and thanks again
paul w Thank you so much for your comment Paul! I'm very happy that you like my videos and found it usefull. Thanks to people like you and your positive energy and feedbacks I'm still posting videos on UA-cam. Best regards man! I wish you all the best!
Loved the video. Very informative! I just ordered this printer from Amazon, so I am looking forward to this fun build.
Thank you so much for your through videos you posted on this printer. I did in fact order it and received it yesterday and while I wanted to emulate what you were able to accomplished with this printer I have decided to return it. Because of you videos I did a very through inspection out of the box. Oddly enough it unpacked itself, I believe it was either an open box or someone opened the printer box itself as when I opened the shipping box the inner box was open an I found parts strewn about inside. I could however see they upgraded many of the issues you pointed out in the first video with the exception of an eye for quality. As I looked at it, all that would have been usable was a frame. For starters the flange bearings for the heater bed carriage were deformed, the extruder was not aligned or was bent but what was even more scary was when I opened up the electronic box to find wires loose and not landed correctly! This printer would have fried the moment I flipped the switch for the first time!!! However I can confirm they upgraded the bed wiring to 14 awg. LOL While I had high hopes of MODing this into a IDEX platform I felt the money and time it would take just to get this thing to print was better off being spent on a different printer. So I requested a return, corrected the wiring so when they send this out to some other person they don't get electrocuted and boxed it up and took your advice on another platform the QIDI TECH X-Max and ordered it up.When I started to add up what it would have taken to get to this printer to where I want it to be, I believe I'll actually save money as they got a 100.00 coupon on Amazon. Had you not alerted us/me I would have none the wiser that I was walking into a nightmare! THANK YOU AGAIN SIR!
Hello, could you share the print slicer profile? many thanks!
Great work. I love your work arounds with what a lot of reviewers are calling a junk printer. A few mods and you are getting awesome prints. Please keep the videos coming
Peter Humm Thanks for your comment Peter! I agree :)
I just got this printer, I started with the baby Groot as well why not. I found the video helpful ty
i got this printer a coupe months back. how about an update video on your upgrades, what changes you did or did not make.
NOTE: When installing the Solid State Relay notice that the DC input polarity (+ and -) is important. The polarity is not marked on the green Heated Bed connector on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to determine the polarity coming from the connector by going to Pre Heat on the touch screen and turning on the Heated Bed (but not Hot End). If you have your probes reversed you will see a -12 volts displayed. On my motherboard the positive was on the left, negative was on the right. I swapped in a black wire for negative so I could easily tell the difference in the future (14 guage to match, but not necessarily required since current draw much less now).
...just an update on Heated Bed upgrade... I stuck the 600W Bed Heater to the aluminum bed using 3M backing (500W in my case, since I bought the one that works with 120V - RMS from my wall measures 126V, so I picked that model of Bed Heater from the AliExpress link Nexi provided). The Bed Heater has a thermistor in its center, so I removed the original thermistor that came with the printer. Hooked up the new thermistor wires to the old thermistor wiring (so I could re-use the motherboard connector). Them I wired the AC and DC connections for the Solid State Relay and to the Power Supply AC screws as diagrammed in that other thread). I ran a Pre-Heat from the Control Panel to 60 C bed heat and it measured perfectly at the center of the aluminum plate. I put the plate on top of the Headbed Insulation (hadn't glued it on with Silicone yet) and cranked up the Pre-Heat to 100 C. Very fast heat-up and perfect reading. There is a few degrees fall-off around the edge of the plate, but to be expected in an open environment and such a large plate.
I put the Silicone Sealant on the back of the Bed Heater and secured the sheet of Heatbed Insulation. Silicone sealant takes 24 hours to cure, so I will re-assemble my printer then. Love these upgrades - Thank You So Much Nexi !!!
@@stevehiemstra8514 Did you need to get a different SSR than the one mentioned? One for 120V out?
1:30 I can't find the vertical pieces you used in the corners, can you please share a link??
What about connecting the 2 "Z" motors with a timing belt at the bottom to stop them from becoming different heights? It would have to be a closed timing belt, I have a source for all the parts needed for mine except for a way to mount a tensioner for the belt.
I got an X5S recently and the first thing I did was to put in a Duet WiFi board. I would highly recommend doing this as the Trinamic drivers make the printer run almost silently.
Been a fan of your videos since the anet a8. This is really impressive and inspiring.
magnum696 Thank you so much mate! Only true fans knows about my Anet A8 :)
Several things I want to point out to those following this awesome guide. If you're in the US or where country uses 110-120, you will need a different bed heater, as that is effectively connecting right to the wall. It's mentioned elsewhere in the comments but you want the 120v 500w one from the options in that link. Nothing else should be different.
I had an issue where once I chose to heat the hotend it would go into shut down mode but just stay stuck there. What the issue was is the PSU was still in the 220V mode even though it was still able to power the printer on. I'm used to computer PSUs or old ones where if the switch was wring it would fry the unit. This is not the case. The yellow sticker pointing to the switch is fairly obvious and the knob should be on the 110v side which is printed on the PCB.
Once I did that I was able to power the hotend no problem.
I then experienced and issue with the hotbed that wasn't heating. I checked the control wires going to the SSR and seemed like they had voltage going through them. Since it's a DC input I thought I'd switched them over and it worked.
I thought it was weird since I though the old bed was AC power and it does not have negative or positive nodes. After doing DC for so long AC is a bit confusing to me.
For the pulleys I was also able to get the same ones on amazon for the same price because the ones from Aliexpress hadn't shown up after a couple of months.
Make sure you get nuts for them to put under the pulleys. This will give a nice lock to the base so it doesn't move around but still allow the pulleys to spin freely.
One question I have is if the bed output is AC, why did switching the wires work to solve the input problem? Also, why wasn't an AA SSR used that uses AC input to close the circuit?
Still have a few things to do on this build. Will need to properly mount the new PSU, replace the extruder, add the lights, and build the encloser.
Many thanks to Nexi, this has been awesome to follow and the improvement is drastic.
when you printed the x,y upgrade where did you move the senior too that was beside the extruder?
Hey Nexi, do you have a diagram as to how you wired the SSR? Currently upgrading the heat bed on it. Thanks
Wow simply an awesome modified printer! Would you say that you spent $600-800 (USD) for the entire setup? The fact that you're making this to handle Polycarbonate with carbon fiber is a step in the pro-level printing. I really love how you went with an AC 600w heated bed with the solid-state relay. I guess you don't need to have a 24v power supply for the hot-end because of the AC heated bed. The only things I thought you would have changed is having the controller outside of the enclosure.
I have a highly modifed Tevo Tarantula (i3 clone), but I really enjoy seeing what people have made with their TronXY printers. I really envy the cube frame which is more stiff.
whao ! It's just crazy ! I have the same machine but everything is sooooo complicated for me to print. How much time and money do I need to transforme my machine like that for PLA please ? I'm a beginner..
the carrdige at 7:49 looks nothing alike all the 3 carridges uploaded in the description from thingiverse ... can you please give the proper one ?
Really found this useful. I just bought a x5sa-400. I wish we were neighbors! Keep up the good work. Don't work too hard.......Joe
Is it working for you? My x5sa always messes up with the z-offset. I cannot set it correctly.
At very beginning it's very tricky to set it up correctly, once you understand how it works there are no problem at all. First set buildplate correctly, then edjust Z offset. It's time consuming but very important.
Would you recommend duel color on this model I had a blob and my wife ripped the wires for the heater on the filament so I was thinking titan but ran across dual color titan
You got me convinced, the prints looks amazing!
Ordered an x5sa-400 thanks to you! Thanks for the awesome content!
I couldn't find it. What rubber tubing did you use with the plexiglass?
Very well done. Good job! Have you considered a mainboard upgrade?
This is making me want to switch from my Artillery SW-X1. I love the build volume on it, but with a tall print it has to go so slow, and the heavy bed causes a lot of ringing.
Just got mine the tronxy x5sa-400 for about $340 I am beyond impressed the machine is prity impressive especially having a heated bed at 400mm^3
When installing your ac hot bed did you have to change anything in the software to reconise a higher temp ie 120c also would it be posible for a install vid on the ac hot bed
Now it is perfect printer and perfect product. 100% 👏
Thanks so much for posting the firmware gcodes as well. Really saved my bacon after I upgraded to the Titan extruder. Thanks!
kwanyeazy No problem my friend! I'm glad that I helped :) Thanks for stopping by
Good night, when you closed the printer and started testing, did you have to make any changes to her firmawer? If possible, give me the firmawer you are using to have this quality and the slicer settings, I use Cura, do you also use it? I bought one just like yours, closed it and I'm still having trouble to have an excellent quality to produce my pieces. I appreciate your video and information about the printer. Actually I bought the 24V version, already updated and everything, Tronxy X5SA 24V, but it is little difference I believe.
Great work, do you have any experience with Tronxy VEHO 1000??? any upgrades???? if anyone know anything would like any idea about,,thanks
Excellent video. I would love to see this machine printing engineering parts from PETG, ABS or POLYCARBONATE.
can you plug in a second nozzle owith this kind of setup you have or not. i mean could you upgrade your printer to an dual extruder one or not
There is a factory dual nozzle version, so upgrade is probably possible.
love your videos! keep it up man
Timo Wey Thanks man! :)
Great Video!
Did anyone has assemble a BONDTECH extruder on this 3D printer?
Wow impressive. The low brand machine are turned in high brand machine!
Excellent Video and links. That's a lot of work. Well done!
What can i do if want have quiter stepper motor? If only move z-axis, there is big voice. I dont know if come from motors or another vibrations. I also noticed, that on board is regulator near stepper driver. That regulator change voltage to motors?
I will buy this printer for sure and most of the components for the upgrade.Thank you a lot.I think the GT2 Pulley are printable as well. They cost 20 bucks after all. (at least the ones with the teeth). The solid state relay is pretty expensive as well... the parts inside it cost 0.4$.
Great and well timed video. Just finishing my build so will be doing some of these upgrades
Thanks! That's awesome Paul! Good luck with your printer! P.S. Check my X5SA review on the channel I mention important safety tip about main DC wires.
Yo, can this printer print as many filaments as the Prusa?
Hello, what is the differences between X5S and X5SA ? For example on the X5S is famous the heated bed is not working and have to buy a dedicated power supply of 24V for make it heat up. Here on the X5SA is the same? Seems like they upgrade/fix some issues from the X5S and named X5SA but what they update?
Thanks
Or by the way why the X5SA it cost 60$ more that the X5S ? On the gearbest site they have same features. Thanks
Will this printer allow dual extruder setup?
This is the nicest tronxy x5s build I have seen so far! I have the x5st but I can't get the auto levelling to work, do you know what needs to be done to activate it?
I don't own one but from what I've read make sure the bed is heated.. people say its a rookie mistake to auto-level a bed that's not heated at the time of leveling.
do you think the E3D V6 clone is good? or should I spend the extra for an original?
Quite impressive. Is there anything that you would rate higher that this one, from what you use?
Impressive results. I gonna probably do the same you did here. Thanks for sharing!
So this printer can print PETG without the upgrades?
You have done an excellent job on tuning that printer in, but with such a build volume I'm a little disappointed that all you show is a tiny phone stand. I would like to see a nice time lapse of that printing something at near it's capacity. Impressive as usual though, thanks for sharing Nexi.
Kevin Schofield Hi Kevin! Thank you for your comment I'm glad that you liked my video and that you appreciate my work. Well that mobile stand is only quick speed/stability test for ABS and PLA filament and 3D Benchy is just a quck print quality test.
I already made full review for this 3D printer and I show alot of time lapses and printed models like Huge pyramid, Robots, lamp, Terminator 2 Arm etc. Please check video if you missed it
ua-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/v-deo.html
Oh yeah, I forgot about those. That Pyramid and Terminator arm do count, but those were before all the UPGRADES. You got priorities now, you need formula more than filament.:-)
i am having issues with the z alignment sensor. It seems to be off? Did you have any issues with the auto home in z?
Hey Nexi, any chance you'll upgrade to the quieter controller board?
What and amazing job you did! Excellent video!
Share that all with TronXY so they can make the ultimate printer!
Awesome!
Is it possible to have the stl file for the spool holder?
Thanks!
Thanks mate! Sure here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1624641/files
good wave, been trying to put the firmware, but it does not make any change. can you help me
HI, I'm italian, I have same printer... you made amaizing work...I notice you print very fast... and your upgrade Guarantee high temperature.. can you make me some suggestion to do the same? I hate some things of this printer... like fan.... hotend fun make flow hot on printer plate...so I used like termic scotch to prevent this...but nozzle ventilation (right fan) make impossible to print petg..beacouse move all micro filament extruded evrywhere... I need print petg, rubber, nylon, carbon.... possibly using 0.4 nozzle.... but using petg I can't print fast than 25 mm/s... can you help me? ....please...
for the ac bed i l ive in canada so i use 110v ... i saw you ve connected a ground wire on the bed ... but where do you ground it from .. from the power suppply ac ground??? can you point me a good how to video on the relay connection o n the board side and the heat pad thx
Yes, you need 110V Heat-bed. You have link in video description. Yes, the ground wire is going from ground on AC power supply to the heat-bed.
Your a genius. Best video on the tube
Thanks buddy!
did you ever think about doing a direct drive upgrade on this printer? I just ordered mine
Not really as I already replaced extruder and Hot end showing in the video. Print quality are very good and I'm satisfied with it.
Do you have a wiring diagram of the upgrades and parts?
I'm not sure if this has been asked already, I wish I could search key words in the comments. Does anyone know how he hooked up the heating bed to the SSR?
Replace the crummy inductive sensor with CRtouch, as the stock sensor has high temperature drift
Subscribed 10/10. Appreciate all the content and knowledge shared.
Absolutely fantastic job! I will be joining the crew with an X5SA Pro. I have already ordered the parts list based on this video and agree if you could share a wiring diagram or up to producing some of your build footage or a review of your wiring would be amazing. Thank you for all your efforts and finite detail.
Can you give details of the installation of the 220V heated bed please?
You found any informations so far? By now i am still waiting for the X5SA to arrive.. but i would like to be prepared ;)
thanks for any help
I really like your content Nexi Tech! You know how to tweak the printer, so every time you review something I'm sure you push the machine to its quality limits. Another very important thing is how you showcase printed objects. I really miss that on the channels from the other youtubers. Detailed closeups in good light is the key to judge the printer and you always have it at the end! Time lapses are nice to watch but technically they don't add much value. Keep it like that - I'm more than happy to subscribe! Ps. Which printer you experienced (not necessarily reviewed) as print quality killer? I look for something FDM better than my anycubic I3 mega in terms of precision printing only.
Hi NExi, those door hinges. did you print them assembled or disassembled? If the latter, was it easy to retrofit? also what thermistor upgrade would be compatible for the X5SA pro or X5SA?
Quick question hope you can help (please). my build is almost complete with all your upgrades however what is the wiring for the relay ? I see you have power leads into the relay and the thermistor wires out but how does the heat pad get power. Thanks ;-)
Sure Paul no problem, look at this picture. folgerforum.com/uploads/default/original/2X/4/45a2fd4840b3e1441b739cd726de192df9e0fef4.png
Don't forget to add ground wire from heated bed to the ground terminal on DC power supply or on the AC switch.
Good luck my friend!
Thank you so much will post a pic when it’s all complete have found a company that will make the panels in acrylic one size so have ordered 😏
And is a fuse needed on circuit??
Pedro Martinez Moreno There is already fuse in the main 3D printer AC switch. No need for one more. Just add ground.
on the diagram it shows "Mains" is that the positive? Sorry if this is a dumb question, just not that good with electronics. Thanks again in advance!
Nexi, first of all, I have to say your channel is one of the most detailed, helpful, 3D printer channels I've ever come across. Thanks for sharing all the hard work. Definitely gained a subscriber.
A couple quick questions for you: 1) Does your modified X5SA print any faster than any of the comparable cartesian printers? (Tornado/ CR-10/ Chiron/ etc.)
2) What are your thoughts about core XY vs. Delta printers vs. Cartesian are far as speed? The published specs are usually ~ the same, but every comparison between the delta and cartesian, the delta wins. I can't find any comparisons between core xy & delta. (Assumes comparable finish quality for the speed tests).
Thanks!
Hi Nexi
I liked you video about 3D printing machine. Every review I watch about 3D machines in the end, they tell you this is the a good one. My question is, what I need to look for if I want to buy one. Thanks again.
Mate you have to start from something. Get one 3D printer for example CR10S PRO, Ender 3 or Ender 5. When you learn more about 3d printers in few mounts of use you will know to answer yourself.
Great Video and amazing job on all the upgrades!! I just my Tronxy X5SA and have ordered most of the upgrades you suggested in the 1st video, but I was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect some of the electrical upgrades such as the mosfit and Solid state relay, as I am new to doing such mod. Thanks in advance!!
HI CONGRATULATIONS FOR THE ACCURATE REPORT THAT YOU MADE, I HAVE ALSO NA TRONXY X5SA, I'M LOOKING FOR A FIRMAWARE UPDATE BUT I HAVE NOT FOUND ANYTHING YOU CAN HELP ME?
@D C I heard it custom to get update message tronxy
I have tronoxy x5sa but Why the proximity sensor not work with me it look like didn't save the z offset can any one help me ? And can I change the frameware in this printer or no please help .
Now THIS is how the pro should have been done.
The link to the PEI sheet is still incorrect. It now leads to an aluminum frame kit.
Does anyone have a cura profile for the printer? I'm having trouble finding one.
Love how it looks after the upgrades!!
Which on do you reccomend... this TronXy or the CR-10S Pro?? I like them both and very interested in your opinion please!!
Awesome build ! I purchased one myself not long .. Question : You changed the pulleys with GT2 16 teeth 5 mm ?
Fodor Cosmin Thanks man! Welcome to the club :)
No, I made mistake in video. It's Actuely GT2 20mm pulleys with 5mm bore for 6mm belts. But 16mm could work great as well.
Thank you for asking this question, I was just about to ask it myself. Excited to get my kit in the mail, making sure I have the easy upgrade parts for when it gets here. :)
Hi! Thanks Your video! Please help me... Are you sticking a silicone heat-bed heater to the original heater-bed or have you bought an aluminim sheet? Thanks
Just stick it to the original Heater-bed, New heater has double side tape on it. Of course first remove all wires and old thermistor from old heater. New one has everything on it.
Nexi Tech thank you
Has anyone done a firmware upgrade on this how did you do?
Nice video. I have a question for you regarding changing the value of the thermistor. I too am upgrading my X5SA to a E3D V6. It comes with a 100K thermistor, which I know is different from the stock thermistor. What code do I need to run to set the correct value in the firmware?
Thanks for the video. I am between the Tronxy X5S 500 and CR10S 500. What would you recommend between the two? I have no 3D printer experience, but am mechanically capable and think I could tinker with either one. They both seem very popular, but have noticed differences such as a cubed frame and belts vs lead screws between the two. Of these two models, what do you recommend? Thank you
spezzy To be honest none of them. You will have alot of problems leveling the bed that size on both machines. Auto level is a must have at that scale. Also both have 12V power supplies at that bed size?! That's not remotely enough. If you looking for large scale 3D printer I would strongly recomend that you go with X5SA(if you are willing to do upgrades) or Anycubic Chiron(I made final review not long) ua-cam.com/video/goY6slY4Ryc/v-deo.html
I completely agree with Nexi here and if large print size is important, I suggest the Chiron, too, as I’ve had much better experience with Anycubic than with Tronxy, both in the quality of the product and their service.
Once you have your first printer easily working trouble-free, then you could consider modifying a Tronxy for your second printer, as the Core-XY mechanicals have an advantage, in theory, over the back-and-forth moving printbed of the Chiron. Nexi’s modifications make his Tronxy able to print with more exotic materials/higher temperatures - the enclosure is essential for this and the Tronxy’s design seems to suit it.
If different materials and print size are less important and you’re looking for speed and quality, I recommend you get a Delta instead :) my first printer was the original Anycubic Kossel and I’m now very happy with my Kossel Linear Plus! Not usually recommended for a beginner but it was easy to set up, and it’s reliable - it is very useful for printing parts for my Tronxy :)
good video
How did you lock the silicone bed?
Tiago Pereira It comes with 3M tape preinstalled.
Will the stock psu be good enough for the upgraded heater?
Hej. Snyggt jobbat fick mycket info till men eget bygget. Håller på bygga egen Railcore skrivare vad skulle rekommendera för att kunna skriva abs?
Are you sure the all the 2GT pulleys are 16mm?
Thanks, what about using poly carbonate transparent sheets for enclosures (I am planning to do using PC, please let me know if there will be any issues)
I think that will be just fine. You can use pretty much anything to make enclosure sense all stepper motors are outside. Motherboard have cooling fan with good air flow so I don't think that will be a problem. Just make sure that you check my x5sa review on my channel I have mention very important safety tip about main DC wiring. You might need to upgrade wires.
@@NexiTech Thanks, will check
Hi! The firmware on this printer can save the parameters you put into it? I know there's Gcodes to save all the input data, but some printers can't store it across reboots, so i'm asking. Also, i didn't really get if it can print through USB, as going up and down with the SD Card gets tiresome soon.
Hi, when you replaced you hotend, did you use the original thermistor or did you replace it? if you did replace it, did you have to make any modifications to the chitu firmware? thanks for the awesome video!!
Hi Mathieu, I have replaced the whole hot end with genuine V6 all metal hot end, including the stock heater and thermistor with V6 one from a Kit. You don't need to do any firmware modifications for the V6 thermistor as it's the standard 100kOhm as far as I know. Temperatures are very accurate I test it with my thermal camera but you do need to extend V6 heater and thermistor cable wires and solder them on stock cables and make them longer as they are to short.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. You're awesome!
Could you please explain a little more about pulleys improvement - specifically changing spring type washers to normal ones. I do not quite understand that part and I do not see a link for ordering washers. That is the only thing stopping me for going into this adventure.
cirilicar Well on X5SA kit you get the spring type washers which they never stay completely flat and Belts as they going left and right they sliding and rubbing the sides of top or bottom biger washers between the bearings. This create drag and it puts extra stress on stepper motors and it makes more noise. When I change the pulleys even on the stock printer the X and Y Movement was much smoother.
P.S. There is no links for washers I buy them in hardware store.
@@NexiTech hello I was wanting to upgrade the pulleys like you did but you mentioned they were 15mm and the link only goes up to 5mm am I missing something? and exactly how many of each are required?
Loved your ideas!! I have a few I'm working on and would love to share them with you. I bought an E3D Hotend so When i downloaded your link for the Carriage with the E3D mount and opened it in Repetier it comes up with an error of not a manifold. When slicer does its thing its skin is gone and the insides remain. Please this looks to be the only good design for the carriage I see fixes all issues. Can you share a link for a corrected version since I'm new to this and just got my Tronxy
Is it not listed on Thingiverse?
Thanks. Looks great
Am glad you like it :) Cheers!
I just ordered Tronxy X5SA pro model. Will go through the mods once I get it. I think they already added some of the features you mentioned in your unboxing/installation video. I will try to make this enclosure and heat bed upgrade sure.
Did you have any trouble connecting to Cura via usb? I cant seem to detect the printer and ive tried using all com ports and still nothing any help would be awesome. Great video! and Tronxy must have listened to you they added butterfly nuts for the bed and way better Y and X bearings on my kit i just got. Thanks.