Call it what it is....it's an epoxy compound (resin/hardener)....hardly as comprehensive as a weld. I suppose if there was a busted engine around it would have made for an interesting video
As you said this was a little over the top but I have used it for over 50 yrs. for many different things and for what I used it for always seemed to work fine. A friend of mine stripped out his alternator tensioning bolt on his ford van and I filled the damaged threaded hole with JB and inserted the new bolt and hand tightened it and after drying all night he drove it this way for years until the van wore out. Thanks for going the extra mile to show us this extreme and for always having a quality video~!!
When I was young, the first time I saw a mower engine, I was and still am amazed at how the art of metallurgy has evolved to make things stand the forces involved in any engine. Engines are a miracle.
A trick to increase the strength of epoxies like JB weld is to bake them for a few hours. I usually do JB weld at 200-250F for 8 hours in high strength applications where it is appropriate. Often times I will clamp the parts, and cure it completely in the oven. Where clamping is not practical, I let if cure overnight,then bake. Ive also simply left them in a hot car in the summer. The nice (and sometimes bad) thing about complete curing in the oven is that the epoxy gets very thin. That lets it flow into all the microscopic pores scratches and imperfections, allowing better surface contact and helps eliminate microscopic and macroscopic voids. Ive considered curing it in a vacuum oven to eliminate the voids, at least for the first 30 minutes or so, but no longer have access to one. Heat curing can work well with other epoxies too. I used JB quick to put a threaded bushing into an Edelbrock carburetor and heat cured it and it has held up for many years in contact with gasoline. (its said that heat curing can also improve chemical resistance) For other epoxies however you want to change the cure temperature. I use the service temperatures as a hint. I dont want to go hot enough to degrade it, but hot enough to push the chemical reactions to completion.
@@giwtwm Nope. It's going to shoot that plug out of the block like a bullet. The head probably gets around 200C or so. That's within it's service temperature, but still requires you to derate the epoxy. However, it's way worse than that. You now have created an insulating layer between the metal head and the metal threads of the spark plug , which protrudes into the combustion chamber. The plug normally will be hotter than the head, but now it will be even hotter. What you need is a timesert kit. They make a kit specifically for repairing spark plug threads. It's not cheap, but it will make a permanent professional repair. You drill out the hole to the proscribed size, then use special tap that is supplied to tap new threads. The use the supplied tool to thread the insert in and expand the bottom of it into the hole locking it in place. I would price getting the kit vs having it done. It might be cheaper to have it done. It shouldn't be more than an hours labor. Probably less if they charge in smaller increments. If the head is on the engine, then you have to make sure the metal shavings don't get in there. The way to do that is to start with the cylinder at the bottom of the compression stroke. Get a grease gun and fill the cylinder with some sort of grease. Doesn't really matter what kind. Petroleum jelly could probably work too. Now fix the threads. Then, take a shop vac and a fat drinking straw and carefully suck out as many of the shavings as you can. Then rotate the engine forward a bit so the plug hole fills up again and vacuum some . Keep doing that until you get to the top of the cylinder. The squirt some carb cleaner in there to help dissolve the grease. Reinstall the plug and start it.
@@michaelallen1432 i have an insert but its just an ordinary one from china, unlike time sert it doesnt have the thing that expands the bottom threads my problem is everytime i took out the spark plug the inserts come with it i need a way to make the insert stay in the head permanently and sadly timesert is not available in my country
Just as I expected….my experience with JB weld has not been great…recent;y bought some metal repair adhesive for about a 1/10 of the price of JB weld on Temu..it works as well if not better but has limitations for sure
I repaired a radiator leaks on my truck over 5 years ago using jb weld. Haven’t thought about it in a long time until I watched this video yep still holding water hahaha
JB Weld is a fantastic product! I would not expect any adesive to hold up to gluing a con rod back togetherl 20 years ago I replaced the water pump on my 7.4L big block chevy suburban motor. The pump had a "porosity leak: i.e. "pinhole" in the casting of the pump. I cleaned the area and roughened up with a Dremel carbide disk and placed a dollu[p of JB Weld over the hole. It was still in place and working 3 years later and I fully disclosed to the new owner. JB is good stuff. Everything has it's limitations.
This channel defiantly inspired me to get back to small engines. That and the need for something to kill time. Now I have 2 free mowers and counting. Great content keep it up.
I once used JB weld to repair the broken spline on an output shaft for a 3hp outboard. It ran for years without trouble after the repair. I was impressed.
It didn't under ignition! You can see the very moment proper ignition took place and that's when it failed. The earlier clip was just the drill rotating it and the sound was just compression, but no ignition!
I think brake cleaner would be better suited to really clean the surfaces because of its properties, it is not petroleum based and so it actually draws the oils out of the metals that are "soaked' into it. Brake cleaner is usually more of an alcohol based cleaner.The carb cleaner tends to leave a bit of (oily) residue on the surface of the metals and oils may tend to weep from inside the metal over time. That's why I always use carb cleaner when working internally and brake cleaner when external of the engine. Over time it will tend to continually break down the lubricating properties of any lubricant like grease, motor oils and such. I try and leave those qualities "in" the metal. That's just my personal findings over the nearly 30 years of wrench turning. Check it out n you may be surprised of your findings... Great vids. Have a good 1.
BlackFlyerRed88 MRWatson I agree. Brake cleaner will dry the metal out better. But regardless, the outcome would be the same because the rod broke in the threaded part. No chance of it staying together. Now if if had failed further up towards the piston, it may have lasted a few seconds if enough jb weld was built up.
I agree! When the rod snapped, it bent the forged aluminum into an oval shape, making it nearly impossible to put back together in the proper shape. Thanks for commenting!
thechosendude That was my first thought to. Two parts to glue together not six. Not the journal. I wouldn't expect it to run a long time but some oil should help
The MacGyver episode was called "Trumbo's World" and Mac improvised an arc welder with a silver coin and a generator if I recall correctly to weld together the connecting rod from the engine of a water pump. The plot of the overall episode was a remake of "Leiningen Versus the Ants", a short story by Carl Stephenson.
@@robertpolicastro1 If I recall correctly after repairing the connecting rod Mac says something like "The power of the American dollar... Half dollar, actually". Depending on the year, US half dollar coins have been minted in 90% silver 10% copper, 40% silver 60% copper, or cupro-nickle (copper/nickle) composite so saying either silver or nickle could be correct depending on the year of the coin - and Mac was not so helpful to tell us what year coins he was using!
This video brought back memories of me and my Dad repairing a horizontal shaft Briggs. It was on a 1970's mini-bike. I ran it low on oil, the bearing went dry, the connecting rod broke and went through the side of the engine case. Although we didn't repair the rod, we bought a new one (small engine parts stores were more common back then) we did however repair the hole in the case using a piece of sheet metal, rivets, and a product that I think was called Aluminum Mender Magic. It worked and didn't leak oil. Oh to be a kid again. As always Project Farm, thank you for the great video and the work you do.
JB weld is really good, I have a 95 crown line boat that because of my own stupidity. I cracked an exhaust manifold. I cut a small V groove in the crack and filled it with JB. It worked great, I kept the boat for another two years and several trips to the lake with no issues! I am sure it isn’t the solve all do all but it works pretty good! Devcon works great as well!
Can we just take a minute to appreciate His dedication to projects? ... I know it's a long shot, but I'd love to see a few things done with a Wankel Rotary Engine.
How about a "liquid piston" engine. It swaps the rotor and stator shapes. A flat elipse rotor turns in a tri-lobe chamber that has a combustion bowl on the corners. It's solved most of the Wankel issues and is very efficient. liquidpiston.com/technology/how-it-works/ Who knows why we have not seen them on the market.
JB Weld works fairly well as a sealer or bonding flat smooth surfaces together. Never had much luck fixing broken pieces that were meant to move or twist. Anything that vibrates will also fail too. It's pretty much the same as epoxy, but with an extremely long curing time.
I used JB Weld Red n' Black Metal Repair on my 1987 Acura Integra Cylinder Head between the Engine Block had steam blowing through indicating a partial blown gasket. The Engine sat horizontal in the engine bay design so I was working with the entire left side of engine. First I cleaned all if any grease and coolant off. Next sprayed some none oily cleaner on that area. Next mixed JB Weld Red n' Black tubes on a piece of cardboard with plastic spatula next let it develope a while. I pressed in between the open area between Cylinder head and Engine Block where old gasket whore out very hard to fill with ample pressure. The entire area around the curve and straight side was 7" inches. I let this dry 3 days for better results. In the end I was surprised it really worked. I stopped loosing coolant and did not have to refill the coolant reservoir anymore. Good Signs Here! I drove vehicle for another 10 years no problem in the area anymore.
It literally lasted about 0.1 of a sec after ignition took over and it was actually taking the force of the explosion inside the piston and not just being rotated by a drill!! LMAO!!
Project Farm no problem man it might have to set for a while though so the inside cures completely but I bet you it would probably hold for a little while
I bet if he looked at the failure it wasn’t in the products ability to “hold” onto the metal, rather the JB weld itself failed. That’s partially because it needs tensile strength. Much like cement needs rebar. Same for fiberglass and resin. I would cast it with JB Weld and carbon fiber chopped up fibers.
Drill very small holes into the rod, so that the epoxy can extend deeper into the rod itself, increasing its strength. Currently, the bond is surface only. If you give the epoxy some channels to expand into, it may work.
@@ProjectFarm I work with Structural Adhesives of many kinds, including various 3M products and JB Weld. Though I still do not think it would have helped on this occasion, the process described by Rachel can often help, but only if the holes are drilled at alternating angles (not straight). When set, what you have then created is referred to as 'Tooth Adhesion'.
@@Mike_Hughes It’s the same thing with painting and coating, it’s why we sand surfaces especially flat non porous surfaces like metal doors and whatnot. If you don’t sand or scuff the surface the paint can peel right off, same with epoxy floors they get acid etched or ground before coating. The paints are getting so good nowadays that they dry so hard anyways, but it is important regardless especially if there’s grease or dirt on the surface
I had a 18 horse Briggs on a Snapper rider that threw a rod years ago. I bought a new piston and rod, replaced them and thoroughly cleaned and glued up the crankcase with JB Weld. My dad is still using it to cut grass 5 years later.
It actually did better than I expected. I really thought it wouldn't last more than maybe 2 or 3 revolutions. Looks like it lasted many dozens of revolutions before it failed, which I think is quite good all things considered. Thanks for this. I found it quite interesting....
I had a quad bike wich had a hole in the crankshaft bay. when I used to start it the oil was flowing by this hole. I fixed it with a bit of jb quick and it worked
It takes a special kind of person to do the things you do knowing this or that just isn't going to work, but do it anyways fairly to show and educate people while keeping it interesting and entertaining. Thanks for all the hard work!
I have sworn by in weld ever since I used it to repair an alternator bracket ear on an 85 volkswagen diesel. A third of the boss was broken off. Jb weld worked so well the car lasted 200,000 more miles, and the engine quit with the repair intact. Excellent product!
I agree too Project Farm,I just recently subscribed to your channel a day or two ago,and have loved all the tests/experiments You've accomplished so far!!! Very cool!!! Keep it going My Friend!!!
I’ll spend a lot of time and make some nice fillets . Tig weld that thing and we might get 5 min out of it . With out a load . I like and need to see videos like this because I like to know the limits of the products available. Even if it’s very obvious that it will break but I want to know how long till it breaks . Lol .
@@makingcookingfixing That probably was because of too high temperature (over 400 deg c) or bad Al soldering rod. I used one to fix my cracked oil pan on my car and holds up really well. Actually a good Al soldering is stronger than the Al itself, so my bet is it would work if it is made well.
@@makingcookingfixing They are not that good but not terrible. It needs constant temperature which is high enough but not too high, this is the hard part, and a lot depends on the aluminum itself. If it is an alloy, then the result is not guaranteed. Because this is not a welding but a soldering technique, diffusion happens instead of welding. But it worked for me the first time, though it needed some practice. I've used 300 deg C rods. They say 400 deg C is a bit better, but since the surface was large (sinks heat very fast) and I didn't have just two propane torches and an oil pan is not having much mechanical force applied I went with the 300 rods. They are handy for sure, try again!
I’ve repaired a regulator manifold on my California Air Tools compressor, and it works great. At the water company I worked for we used a metal impregnated JB Weld to repair flange surfaces by filling in scratches, and indentations to insure a perfect gasket seal, but never anything under so much stress. And of course the JB Weld we used was industrial strength, not the same as you would buy in the store. To repair the regulator manifold I ground out the crack in the fitting connector nipple , then I welded it with Alumiweld rods. Then I used the JB Weld to seal the crack on the ID threads before reinstalling the air fitting. It’s holding up well at 120 psi.
@@ProjectFarm Or what about substituting JB-Weld for those two bolts you used, then testing it. That way you could test using a new connecting rod rather than the bent one.
I used JB Weld to repair an eroded exhaust manifold gasket face on a Honda 2hp Outboard, it has since run perfectly for the last 4 years. It was a really badly damaged port but JB worked a treat. The outboard is used 30 plus times a year 1-2 hrs at a time so it's had a really good test. Great product.
MAN THAT WAS JUST AWESOME! It's not everyday that you get to see a connecting rod bust up like that. And we get to see it in all its glory. The thing was jb welded to boot. 🤣👍
the craziest thing i fixed with JB weld was an aluminum cylinder head. Dexcool corroded the head around the water jackets and I was afraid the new head gasket wouldn't seal. So I ground out the corrosion with a wire wheel and filled the area with JB weld. Put the head back on and the customer has been driving it for 2 years with no problem.
My experience with broken rods is that there is generally significant wear in the rod bearings (rod knock) and/or crankshaft journal before the rod let's loose. You may have repaired the rod, but any play probably remained. I've made some fairly impressive repairs with JBW.
I suppose if you had a fracture that exposed a lot of metal surface area and the part wasn't under tension you could JBW it, which is what I presume happened to the "guy" who fixed an engine block on their packaging "testimonial". Other than that, _Harbor Freight's $2 epoxy_ is sterner stuff.
When I was a teenager I glued together a connecting rod on my 5hp go cart. It held together for a full tank of gas at WOT while my buddy and I drove the go cart. It’s some good stuff
I loved this test even though it failed. I highly believe in J b Weld so as soon as I saw your title I knew I had to see this even though I had my doubts to begin with and then as you went on to discuss the original damage I was really skeptical then. I do really appreciate your diligence in follow thru on your test no matter how bad the odds seem to be already. The hard work that you do on all of these test that you have created and designed from your farm shop as you call it lead me to believe that if you were one of the NASA engineers during the Apollo program that I know you would have done something very significant in the program to have gotten us to the moon. Good job you seem to be very thorough and always honest and unbiased.
I think a NASA engineer would have done the maths/physics first and realised that jb weld was definitely not the material to use and that it literally stood no chance at all! Not even a remote one lol!!! But yea I can see the similarities between NASA and project farm 🤨
Although it's 3 years later it would be awesome to see if the Muggy Alloy or the different aluminum no-weld welding rods would hold up. So many options on the market now, I would pay hard $$ to know which one is the best (without buying them all).
Looks like he’s got a job to me. Provides a service/entertainment receives a return. Best part is the viewer (us) doesn’t even pay for it. And out of all the you tubers I’ve seen that “need a real job” this guys most definitely has the closest thing to what these nay sayers would consider a “real job”. Very practical channel for all kinds of people especially blue collar workers deciding what to spend money on.
I hate to disagree with you on this, but I don't believe that rod failed because of the JBweld. I believe it failed because you were running it dry again. You can try to guess how many seconds until the rod binds up and breaks, but it's still just a wild guess because that break was inevitable. I really wish you'd put this in a complete block (or glued a plastic panel over that hole) and then put oil in it to really give the repaired rod a chance to live. If it had it's regular oil bath (and that little hole on the side of the rod isn't blocked), then I believe it would have run long enough to go out and mow some lawn. ;)
I sometimes leave out important content to keep the videos concise. I used Lucas Oil Stabilizer to lubricate the cylinder walls and connecting rod. The engine didn't run long enough to burn off the Lucas. I might repeat this test making a clean cut across the connecting rod and then we'll see if JB Weld is up to the task. I believe it could last if done properly. Thanks for commenting!
Well, add to that how rough the bearing surface was too. It would REALLY be taking your time spent over the top if you were to bolt the rod together and bore it cleanly to an exact size, but I bet that would also give the epoxy a fighting chance to survive. Just random thoughts and dreaming, you know how it is. Was still an interesting and fun video regardless. ;)
@@ProjectFarm The problem wasn't the lack of lubrication, a properly built engine can run for a short time with little to no oil in it. Where you did go horribly wrong was in the condition of the rod bearing and crankshaft. If those aren't perfectly machined the engine will fail in only a matter of a few seconds, and that's exactly what we witnessed. I bet if you took a little more care in doing this you could have at least got it to idle for a short while.
To the guy dazaaalah you s add id your buddys wife is unbalanced,i think she must be friends with my wife buddy cause mine is off her rocker (lol) tell your buddy to hang in there
I used JB weld on glass '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee headlight housings. The headlights were UK spec, the glass lense was pulling away from the headlight bucket. I cleaned all surfaces, applied JB weld, let sit, and they never came apart or leaked even on a lifted Jeep running off road tires that had vibration.
used JB to build up a stripped keyway in the end of a crankshaft on a dump truck v8 engine. The truck was used in a gravel pit hauling way over its limits, and sold 5 years later, still running great with no issues. I was impressed.
Yup, that was my first thought.... Mentour repairing the connecting rod from his CFM56s! Hopefully on the ground during turnaround and not in the air...
When my rear-view mirror fell off of my windshield, I tried those specially formulated glues to affix it. No luck. Then I tried epoxy, no luck. Then I tried JB weld, Bingo!
We used to run methanol in 360 Honda engines in our race cars. Only mod we made was to drill out the jets. Methanol (or any alcohol) does not have as many BTU’s as gasoline, therefore you need more of it to make the same power, so the engine needs much bigger jetting. It’s the same reason you actually get more mileage with pure gasoline than you do with this ethanol contaminated fuel we are stuck with now. However the engine will run cooler on alky, which was why we ran it in our air-cooled engines.
Jleone leone: OMGoodness I must really be getting tired! I just rad your comment as: ..."Please do plastic explosives" !!! LMAO. Time for bed I guess. LOL. Too funny.
Not trying to nuthug but, your test are some of the best tests I see I youtube. Complete and true tests simulating real life scenarios and the durability of products you demonstrate.
i love chargermiles. he has a lot of awesome videos with briggs. he made a plastic piston and jbweld piston. also a lot of wood piston crown experiments
Had JB weld repair a broken driver's side engine mount after it snapped off a piece of the block(accident), repaired it and never had issues. Also used it on a rear transmission mount that snapped off and the holes for the bolts stripped out. Fill the holes and put the mount back on with jb weld and held up at the track still working to this day. Surface prep is the biggest key factor
I used JB weld over three years ago on my Chevy #1 cylinder cracked exhaust manifold. 2021, still working just fine. The key to JB weld is the dry time. I find 48hrs best.
@@carlyletom301 I doubt wood could last very long at all in that application, for a rod, it has too many stress points both from being pulled, and pushed that's why in high performance engines it's important that rods be very strong.
I job welded a Mercury 2.4L V6 boat motor block. I was turning it 7000RPM on an Allison boat when it broke the crank, windowed the block, and gouged off the sealing ring ridges. I built them back up with JB. Patched the holes in the block with JB, filled the gouges in the pistons (from crank pieces catching in the ports) with JB, then slapped in a used crank and some used piston rings. I sold it a year later still running like that. It was a little hard to crank, but it would still push the boat into the 70's....
I used it on my truck oil pan. Fixed it very good. Also used it on my transmission when drive shaft borke. It hit it, took chunk out if it. Jb weld is awsome.
I once had a valve seat drop out on my commercial walk behind mower. Without the time or funds to repair it JB weld held the seat in place for the rest of the season (2-3 months of 5 day per week mowing) i was incredibly impressed.
One trick that I learned about JB Weld steel stik...apply on the surface and then cover the surroundings like a wall. Its still holding my engine block hole like a champ!!
We did things like that in our high school shop class, we never glued the rod back together, but we used JB Weld for all sorts of stuff such as repairing handle bar mounts for motorcycles.
Heliarced a broken rod cap on a buddy's compressor about 3 years ago...it's still running....old kz1300 6 cyl. Street bike...guy gave it to me...he had run it into a curb and it broke a hole in the lower case big enough to put your hand into...layed it on it's side and made forms with carboard and super glue...used the large size jb weld..all of it.. rode the bike for 3 years... no oil leak..buddy with a cad Northstar, ran it over a rock. Broke a 2x4 in piece out of the pan...pull the motor to replace it? Hell no. 3/8 aluminum plate same shspy as the bottom if the pan...drill 2. 3/8 holes for bolts, put seals on the bolts, made a bracket that hooked. Inside the pan, drill/tap holes..clean well and 2 kits small size jb weld..wipe off the excess...ya half to look twice to even notice it.. drove it every day for the past year, it doesn't even seep... Ya the con rod...we knew it would not fly....but ya just had to prove it! Ever used it on a head sealing surface? My BBC boat motor with aluminum heads,,, serious pitting around the water passages...Dremel out the pits for clean metal..jb weld with a razor blade...steel shim head gaskets. Used that nasty brown sealer....year later...maybe 200 hrs hard running time...pulled heads back off...jb weld still stuck...couple things you might tell people...jb quick weld is kinda worthless...and regular jb weld NEEDS 24 hrs cure time...hot weather, cold weather it don't matter. Do you know any history on jb? I'm 65 and it was around bwhen I was a kid. You have a cool show...nuthin but in your face facts..keep up the great work!
There are other pro adhesives designed to be literally stronger than metal. Loctite EA 3478 (aka fixmaster superior metal) is one. SikaPower-1277 is another. The latter is even designed to absorb oil from oily surfaces, helping maintain corrosion resistance. These produce machinable surfaces stronger than steel. Might be fun to play with some for a video someday ;)
I can’t believe that I use UA-cam every single day and I’m just now finding your channel over the last couple weeks I’ve watched a bunch of your vids. Thanks for the vids it’s fun to watch someone do stuff like this.
How could this guy get 300 something thumbs down he explained everything perfect good detail good camera work good everything 👌👍👌👍 I just started watching his videos i always look forward to see what he does next
if JB weld actually worked, I'd be damn scared of buying used cars.
lol. Great point!
Phew! It's safe
Bee JayGee lol 😂
Are you kidding me, people are using Raman noodles as bondo
When you power wash your car you'll realize what it's been through
Call it what it is....it's an epoxy compound (resin/hardener)....hardly as comprehensive as a weld. I suppose if there was a busted engine around it would have made for an interesting video
As you said this was a little over the top but I have used it for over 50 yrs. for many different things and for what I used it for always seemed to work fine. A friend of mine stripped out his alternator tensioning bolt on his ford van and I filled the damaged threaded hole with JB and inserted the new bolt and hand tightened it and after drying all night he drove it this way for years until the van wore out.
Thanks for going the extra mile to show us this extreme and for always having a quality video~!!
Thank you for the feedback
When I was young, the first time I saw a mower engine, I was and still am amazed at how the art of metallurgy has evolved to make things stand the forces involved in any engine. Engines are a miracle.
Thanks for sharing.
Incredible! Then move the decimal point right a long way when we look at the way the human body is designed.
I'm 68 and combustible engines are still the most amazing things I've ever seen
A trick to increase the strength of epoxies like JB weld is to bake them for a few hours. I usually do JB weld at 200-250F for 8 hours in high strength applications where it is appropriate. Often times I will clamp the parts, and cure it completely in the oven. Where clamping is not practical, I let if cure overnight,then bake. Ive also simply left them in a hot car in the summer. The nice (and sometimes bad) thing about complete curing in the oven is that the epoxy gets very thin. That lets it flow into all the microscopic pores scratches and imperfections, allowing better surface contact and helps eliminate microscopic and macroscopic voids. Ive considered curing it in a vacuum oven to eliminate the voids, at least for the first 30 minutes or so, but no longer have access to one. Heat curing can work well with other epoxies too. I used JB quick to put a threaded bushing into an Edelbrock carburetor and heat cured it and it has held up for many years in contact with gasoline. (its said that heat curing can also improve chemical resistance) For other epoxies however you want to change the cure temperature. I use the service temperatures as a hint. I dont want to go hot enough to degrade it, but hot enough to push the chemical reactions to completion.
Great tip! Thank you
Hi do you think it can hold the spark plug without melting? my spark plug stripped the threads
@@giwtwm Nope. It's going to shoot that plug out of the block like a bullet. The head probably gets around 200C or so. That's within it's service temperature, but still requires you to derate the epoxy. However, it's way worse than that. You now have created an insulating layer between the metal head and the metal threads of the spark plug , which protrudes into the combustion chamber. The plug normally will be hotter than the head, but now it will be even hotter.
What you need is a timesert kit. They make a kit specifically for repairing spark plug threads. It's not cheap, but it will make a permanent professional repair. You drill out the hole to the proscribed size, then use special tap that is supplied to tap new threads. The use the supplied tool to thread the insert in and expand the bottom of it into the hole locking it in place. I would price getting the kit vs having it done. It might be cheaper to have it done. It shouldn't be more than an hours labor. Probably less if they charge in smaller increments.
If the head is on the engine, then you have to make sure the metal shavings don't get in there. The way to do that is to start with the cylinder at the bottom of the compression stroke. Get a grease gun and fill the cylinder with some sort of grease. Doesn't really matter what kind. Petroleum jelly could probably work too. Now fix the threads. Then, take a shop vac and a fat drinking straw and carefully suck out as many of the shavings as you can. Then rotate the engine forward a bit so the plug hole fills up again and vacuum some . Keep doing that until you get to the top of the cylinder. The squirt some carb cleaner in there to help dissolve the grease. Reinstall the plug and start it.
@@michaelallen1432 i have an insert but its just an ordinary one from china, unlike time sert it doesnt have the thing that expands the bottom threads my problem is everytime i took out the spark plug the inserts come with it i need a way to make the insert stay in the head permanently and sadly timesert is not available in my country
Just as I expected….my experience with JB weld has not been great…recent;y bought some metal repair adhesive for about a 1/10 of the price of JB weld on Temu..it works as well if not better but has limitations for sure
I repaired a radiator leaks on my truck over 5 years ago using jb weld. Haven’t thought about it in a long time until I watched this video yep still holding water hahaha
Impressive results! Thanks for sharing.
Dusti Jones ... a radiator leaks?
Fixed my ex's car that had a punctured oil pan with JB weld. It at least lasted 3 months. I don't know if it lasted after that as I left her.
@Don Avan good ol bypass
how is that relevant, to what he has done?
Could you try running a two stroke engine with different fuel oil mixes like vegetable oil or canola oil and see If there's any damage
Alexander, this is a great video project idea--thank you!
35% virgin vinegar
Alexander v oil is oil it will work. And it will smell good. I have seen car engines with canola oil ran in them they smelled like French fries.
@Tammy Forbes Were those Diesel engines? Yes, it does work in Diesels when the oil's hot enough.
nitro fuel
This is definitely one of the best UA-cam channels on UA-cam. 👍
Appreciate that!
JB Weld is a fantastic product! I would not expect any adesive to hold up to gluing a con rod back togetherl 20 years ago I replaced the water pump on my 7.4L big block chevy suburban motor. The pump had a "porosity leak: i.e. "pinhole" in the casting of the pump. I cleaned the area and roughened up with a Dremel carbide disk and placed a dollu[p of JB Weld over the hole. It was still in place and working 3 years later and I fully disclosed to the new owner. JB is good stuff. Everything has it's limitations.
Thanks for sharing.
This channel defiantly inspired me to get back to small engines. That and the need for something to kill time. Now I have 2 free mowers and counting.
Great content keep it up.
Connor, Thank you very much for the positive comment! Also, glad you're getting back into small engines. It's a lot of fun!
If you want to kill some time, take a few seconds to know the difference between defiantly and definitely.
I knew that he used the wrong word but I let it go. We didn't all get the same education, chill.
Trump is The Man 2020 Baby ...With All That said Lets Watch this Cool video
Connor Hunter can't kill a Briggs , (excluding what this guy does) so they're great to play around with
I once used JB weld to repair the broken spline on an output shaft for a 3hp outboard. It ran for years without trouble after the repair. I was impressed.
Geremy, This is an impressive repair! Thanks for commenting!
Aye, that would be impressive. ;)
That's a wicked repair! I think that the change from reciprocating to rotating motion makes a huge difference for longevity
He didn't machine the crankshaft or rod bearing, I'm surprised it moved at all.
I'm surprised the engine could even cycle. Great attempt!
Thank you!
It didn't under ignition! You can see the very moment proper ignition took place and that's when it failed. The earlier clip was just the drill rotating it and the sound was just compression, but no ignition!
Lol. Heck no that ain't holding up. Now time to watch it.
lol. It was a fun test. It actually fired up and held for a very short period of time, which is amazing
Should have made a complete connecting rod from JB Weld
Patrick Fennessy next video.....
@@gettintheresafelywithpatf2869 and pistons from large bamboo sections! Waste of youtube
TennCutty may be a waste of UA-cam, but the self destruction would fun to watch if nothing else!
I think brake cleaner would be better suited to really clean the surfaces because of its properties, it is not petroleum based and so it actually draws the oils out of the metals that are "soaked' into it. Brake cleaner is usually more of an alcohol based cleaner.The carb cleaner tends to leave a bit of (oily) residue on the surface of the metals and oils may tend to weep from inside the metal over time. That's why I always use carb cleaner when working internally and brake cleaner when external of the engine. Over time it will tend to continually break down the lubricating properties of any lubricant like grease, motor oils and such. I try and leave those qualities "in" the metal. That's just my personal findings over the nearly 30 years of wrench turning. Check it out n you may be surprised of your findings... Great vids. Have a good 1.
Brake cleaner is a great suggestion. I greatly appreciate this recommendation! Thanks again!
BlackFlyerRed88 MRWatson I agree. Brake cleaner will dry the metal out better. But regardless, the outcome would be the same because the rod broke in the threaded part. No chance of it staying together. Now if if had failed further up towards the piston, it may have lasted a few seconds if enough jb weld was built up.
Kfx Guy, great point regarding the failure location making it nearly impossible to last.
And as far as deoiling/degreasing goes, hows about denatured alcohol?
Lewie, I'll try using denatured alcohol.
I think there were too many pieces in that con rod. Maybe would have faired better if it was a single crack. Thanks for your effort.
I agree! When the rod snapped, it bent the forged aluminum into an oval shape, making it nearly impossible to put back together in the proper shape. Thanks for commenting!
maybe you can jb weld where the bolts go in a different rod just to see it it can do it
they usually do bend when they go.......
so.....if you get REALLY lucky you might get a clean and straight break
thechosendude That was my first thought to. Two parts to glue together not six. Not the journal. I wouldn't expect it to run a long time but some oil should help
I (think I) remember any old MacGyver episode where he repaired a connecting rod with a silver coin, using a car battery as a welder. Try that.
Thank you for the video idea!
Yup i remember that episode its on the beginning of the intro too
The MacGyver episode was called "Trumbo's World" and Mac improvised an arc welder with a silver coin and a generator if I recall correctly to weld together the connecting rod from the engine of a water pump. The plot of the overall episode was a remake of "Leiningen Versus the Ants", a short story by Carl Stephenson.
It was a nickel not silver.
@@robertpolicastro1 If I recall correctly after repairing the connecting rod Mac says something like "The power of the American dollar... Half dollar, actually". Depending on the year, US half dollar coins have been minted in 90% silver 10% copper, 40% silver 60% copper, or cupro-nickle (copper/nickle) composite so saying either silver or nickle could be correct depending on the year of the coin - and Mac was not so helpful to tell us what year coins he was using!
This video brought back memories of me and my Dad repairing a horizontal shaft Briggs. It was on a 1970's mini-bike. I ran it low on oil, the bearing went dry, the connecting rod broke and went through the side of the engine case. Although we didn't repair the rod, we bought a new one (small engine parts stores were more common back then) we did however repair the hole in the case using a piece of sheet metal, rivets, and a product that I think was called Aluminum Mender Magic. It worked and didn't leak oil. Oh to be a kid again. As always Project Farm, thank you for the great video and the work you do.
You are welcome!
JB weld is really good, I have a 95 crown line boat that because of my own stupidity. I cracked an exhaust manifold. I cut a small V groove in the crack and filled it with JB. It worked great, I kept the boat for another two years and several trips to the lake with no issues!
I am sure it isn’t the solve all do all but it works pretty good!
Devcon works great as well!
Impressive results!
Can we just take a minute to appreciate His dedication to projects?
... I know it's a long shot, but I'd love to see a few things done with a Wankel Rotary Engine.
Thank you very much for the positive comment! I sure wish I had a rotary engine to use in a video project.
@@ProjectFarm my, hasn't this aged like wine :)
How about a wanker up and down engine?
How about a "liquid piston" engine. It swaps the rotor and stator shapes. A flat elipse rotor turns in a tri-lobe chamber that has a combustion bowl on the corners. It's solved most of the Wankel issues and is very efficient. liquidpiston.com/technology/how-it-works/ Who knows why we have not seen them on the market.
make a boat anchor after 50K
JB Weld works fairly well as a sealer or bonding flat smooth surfaces together. Never had much luck fixing broken pieces that were meant to move or twist. Anything that vibrates will also fail too. It's pretty much the same as epoxy, but with an extremely long curing time.
I used JB Weld Red n' Black Metal Repair on my 1987 Acura Integra Cylinder Head between the Engine Block had steam blowing through indicating a partial blown gasket. The Engine sat horizontal in the engine bay design so I was working with the entire left side of engine. First I cleaned all if any grease and coolant off. Next sprayed some none oily cleaner on that area. Next mixed JB Weld Red n' Black tubes on a piece of cardboard with plastic spatula next let it develope a while. I pressed in between the open area between Cylinder head and Engine Block where old gasket whore out very hard to fill with ample pressure. The entire area around the curve and straight side was 7" inches. I let this dry 3 days for better results. In the end I was surprised it really worked. I stopped loosing coolant and did not have to refill the coolant reservoir anymore. Good Signs Here! I drove vehicle for another 10 years no problem in the area anymore.
See it lasted 4 seconds, told you it would work!
You are right! Thank you
I am grateful for the clip, it helps me enormously in choosing the right epoxy for a project I am building. Cheers John
It literally lasted about 0.1 of a sec after ignition took over and it was actually taking the force of the explosion inside the piston and not just being rotated by a drill!! LMAO!!
That sound in the earlier clip is just the compression during it being rotated by a drill not the engine running!
An entire connecting rod cast from jb weld see if that fairs any better 😀 love the videos man keep up the good work
Bradley, this is a great video project idea. Thanks!
There is already a video done. "SPOILER" It worked for a few minutes if I recall correctly.
Project Farm no problem man it might have to set for a while though so the inside cures completely but I bet you it would probably hold for a little while
I bet if he looked at the failure it wasn’t in the products ability to “hold” onto the metal, rather the JB weld itself failed. That’s partially because it needs tensile strength. Much like cement needs rebar. Same for fiberglass and resin. I would cast it with JB Weld and carbon fiber chopped up fibers.
Drill very small holes into the rod, so that the epoxy can extend deeper into the rod itself, increasing its strength. Currently, the bond is surface only. If you give the epoxy some channels to expand into, it may work.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm I work with Structural Adhesives of many kinds, including various 3M products and JB Weld. Though I still do not think it would have helped on this occasion, the process described by Rachel can often help, but only if the holes are drilled at alternating angles (not straight). When set, what you have then created is referred to as 'Tooth Adhesion'.
@@Mike_Hughes It’s the same thing with painting and coating, it’s why we sand surfaces especially flat non porous surfaces like metal doors and whatnot. If you don’t sand or scuff the surface the paint can peel right off, same with epoxy floors they get acid etched or ground before coating. The paints are getting so good nowadays that they dry so hard anyways, but it is important regardless especially if there’s grease or dirt on the surface
Ya oand maybe by covering the entire outside as well
I had a 18 horse Briggs on a Snapper rider that threw a rod years ago. I bought a new piston and rod, replaced them and thoroughly cleaned and glued up the crankcase with JB Weld. My dad is still using it to cut grass 5 years later.
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
It actually did better than I expected. I really thought it wouldn't last more than maybe 2 or 3 revolutions. Looks like it lasted many dozens of revolutions before it failed, which I think is quite good all things considered. Thanks for this. I found it quite interesting....
Glad you found it interesting!
I had a quad bike wich had a hole in the crankshaft bay. when I used to start it the oil was flowing by this hole. I fixed it with a bit of jb quick and it worked
Impressive repair!
Yeah a hole that has no stress will usually work....but a connecting rod..NOT
It takes a special kind of person to do the things you do knowing this or that just isn't going to work, but do it anyways fairly to show and educate people while keeping it interesting and entertaining. Thanks for all the hard work!
Thank you very much for the positive comment.
I have sworn by in weld ever since I used it to repair an alternator bracket ear on an 85 volkswagen diesel. A third of the boss was broken off. Jb weld worked so well the car lasted 200,000 more miles, and the engine quit with the repair intact. Excellent product!
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for all the effort you put into these awesome videos. Amazing quality my friend! Best channel on youtube hands down :)
Eddy, thank you very much for the positive comment! This really does keep me motivated to keep making more videos!
+Project Farm your channel is really awsome
I agree! Some of the best content out there!
I agree too Project Farm,I just recently subscribed to your channel a day or two ago,and have loved all the tests/experiments You've accomplished so far!!! Very cool!!! Keep it going My Friend!!!
You sir deserve way more than 54k subs
Michael, thank you very much for the positive feedback! This keeps me motivated to keep making videos!
he's got 300k!
588k 5.4.2019
629k 6/23/19
Now try it with those “low temp” aluminum welding/repair rods...😊
Thank you for the video idea!
I’ll spend a lot of time and make some nice fillets . Tig weld that thing and we might get 5 min out of it . With out a load . I like and need to see videos like this because I like to know the limits of the products available. Even if it’s very obvious that it will break but I want to know how long till it breaks . Lol .
Anyone tried jb weld on a John Deere plastic fuel tank that leaks at the tank drain fitting?
@@makingcookingfixing That probably was because of too high temperature (over 400 deg c) or bad Al soldering rod. I used one to fix my cracked oil pan on my car and holds up really well. Actually a good Al soldering is stronger than the Al itself, so my bet is it would work if it is made well.
@@makingcookingfixing They are not that good but not terrible. It needs constant temperature which is high enough but not too high, this is the hard part, and a lot depends on the aluminum itself. If it is an alloy, then the result is not guaranteed. Because this is not a welding but a soldering technique, diffusion happens instead of welding. But it worked for me the first time, though it needed some practice. I've used 300 deg C rods. They say 400 deg C is a bit better, but since the surface was large (sinks heat very fast) and I didn't have just two propane torches and an oil pan is not having much mechanical force applied I went with the 300 rods. They are handy for sure, try again!
I’ve repaired a regulator manifold on my California Air Tools compressor, and it works great. At the water company I worked for we used a metal impregnated JB Weld to repair flange surfaces by filling in scratches, and indentations to insure a perfect gasket seal, but never anything under so much stress. And of course the JB Weld we used was industrial strength, not the same as you would buy in the store. To repair the regulator manifold I ground out the crack in the fitting connector nipple , then I welded it with Alumiweld rods. Then I used the JB Weld to seal the crack on the ID threads before reinstalling the air fitting. It’s holding up well at 120 psi.
Thanks for sharing.
What about taking a connecting rod, sawing it in half then using JB Weld?
Great test idea! Thank you
@@ProjectFarm Or what about substituting JB-Weld for those two bolts you used, then testing it. That way you could test using a new connecting rod rather than the bent one.
Err the con rod will be considerably shorter !
had a cracked head on a johnson boat motor. Jb welded it and ran like a champ for many years.
Impressive results!
And God said "Cast thine Rod out of J-B Weld"
And Project Farm said "This is the Rod of correction"
And the Rod splitteth asunder.
You should know, you’ve had plenty of rods !
I used JB Weld to repair an eroded exhaust manifold gasket face on a Honda 2hp Outboard, it has since run perfectly for the last 4 years. It was a really badly damaged port but JB worked a treat. The outboard is used 30 plus times a year 1-2 hrs at a time so it's had a really good test. Great product.
Thank you!
It was still fun though and we learned something 😎
Thank you!
I’m so glad I saw this before I tried fixing my engine block that split in two. I’m joking. Great video! 👍
Thank you!
MAN THAT WAS JUST AWESOME!
It's not everyday that you get to see a connecting rod bust up like that.
And we get to see it in all its glory.
The thing was jb welded to boot. 🤣👍
Thank you
the craziest thing i fixed with JB weld was an aluminum cylinder head. Dexcool corroded the head around the water jackets and I was afraid the new head gasket wouldn't seal. So I ground out the corrosion with a wire wheel and filled the area with JB weld. Put the head back on and the customer has been driving it for 2 years with no problem.
Impressive repair!
My experience with broken rods is that there is generally significant wear in the rod bearings (rod knock) and/or crankshaft journal before the rod let's loose.
You may have repaired the rod, but any play probably remained.
I've made some fairly impressive repairs with JBW.
Great point. Thank you
I suppose if you had a fracture that exposed a lot of metal surface area and the part wasn't under tension you could JBW it, which is what I presume happened to the "guy" who fixed an engine block on their packaging "testimonial".
Other than that, _Harbor Freight's $2 epoxy_ is sterner stuff.
When I was a teenager I glued together a connecting rod on my 5hp go cart. It held together for a full tank of gas at WOT while my buddy and I drove the go cart. It’s some good stuff
Impressive!
I loved this test even though it failed. I highly believe in J b Weld so as soon as I saw your title I knew I had to see this even though I had my doubts to begin with and then as you went on to discuss the original damage I was really skeptical then. I do really appreciate your diligence in follow thru on your test no matter how bad the odds seem to be already. The hard work that you do on all of these test that you have created and designed from your farm shop as you call it lead me to believe that if you were one of the NASA engineers during the Apollo program that I know you would have done something very significant in the program to have gotten us to the moon. Good job you seem to be very thorough and always honest and unbiased.
Thank you very much!
I think a NASA engineer would have done the maths/physics first and realised that jb weld was definitely not the material to use and that it literally stood no chance at all! Not even a remote one lol!!! But yea I can see the similarities between NASA and project farm 🤨
Kudos to you for being so responsive to your audience.
Thank you
Although it's 3 years later it would be awesome to see if the Muggy Alloy or the different aluminum no-weld welding rods would hold up. So many options on the market now, I would pay hard $$ to know which one is the best (without buying them all).
Great suggestion! Thank you.
Someone needs to get this guy a very expensive high speed camera
No, he needs a job.
Looks like he’s got a job to me. Provides a service/entertainment receives a return. Best part is the viewer (us) doesn’t even pay for it. And out of all the you tubers I’ve seen that “need a real job” this guys most definitely has the closest thing to what these nay sayers would consider a “real job”. Very practical channel for all kinds of people especially blue collar workers deciding what to spend money on.
@@bobbeaman807 What is your problem?
Run some test on gearboxes, transmissions, and torque converters.
A good video on JB WELD Kwik Wood for Rotten Wood repair would probably help a lot of people! Thanks for the great videos!!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm Kwik Wood is also manufactured by JB Weld. The sentence in my comment may have been misleading.
I hate to disagree with you on this, but I don't believe that rod failed because of the JBweld. I believe it failed because you were running it dry again. You can try to guess how many seconds until the rod binds up and breaks, but it's still just a wild guess because that break was inevitable. I really wish you'd put this in a complete block (or glued a plastic panel over that hole) and then put oil in it to really give the repaired rod a chance to live. If it had it's regular oil bath (and that little hole on the side of the rod isn't blocked), then I believe it would have run long enough to go out and mow some lawn. ;)
I sometimes leave out important content to keep the videos concise. I used Lucas Oil Stabilizer to lubricate the cylinder walls and connecting rod. The engine didn't run long enough to burn off the Lucas. I might repeat this test making a clean cut across the connecting rod and then we'll see if JB Weld is up to the task. I believe it could last if done properly. Thanks for commenting!
Well, add to that how rough the bearing surface was too. It would REALLY be taking your time spent over the top if you were to bolt the rod together and bore it cleanly to an exact size, but I bet that would also give the epoxy a fighting chance to survive.
Just random thoughts and dreaming, you know how it is. Was still an interesting and fun video regardless. ;)
Nope I disagree it didn't even last long enough for oil to Splash on it if there had been oil. Jb weld sucks
@@ProjectFarm The problem wasn't the lack of lubrication, a properly built engine can run for a short time with little to no oil in it. Where you did go horribly wrong was in the condition of the rod bearing and crankshaft. If those aren't perfectly machined the engine will fail in only a matter of a few seconds, and that's exactly what we witnessed. I bet if you took a little more care in doing this you could have at least got it to idle for a short while.
Project Farm I second that it should have been ran in normal conditions and the rod was in a very bad shape.
I've used it to repair my outboards prop. It had a small chunk taken out after tangling with a rock. Worked very well.
Hans, thank you for commenting!
I would be concerned about it being unbalanced?
My friends wife is unbalanced.
To the guy dazaaalah you s add id your buddys wife is unbalanced,i think she must be friends with my wife buddy cause mine is off her rocker (lol) tell your buddy to hang in there
I wonder if those aluminum brazing rods would have held it together...
You sir get a virtual high five for attempting this. Nice job.
Wow, thanks!
"Okay, I got the connection rod all glued back together."
Top 10 things you don't want to hear from your mechanic.
lol Thanks for watching!
Haha XD
That was asking waaaaay too much!
Agree. Thank you!
Oh god I'm at the 2:00 mark thinking, this would be a Saturday night lets do something while we're drunk idea!
Speeddemon3 just set fire to things or blow shit up. Less troubles...
I used JB weld on glass '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee headlight housings. The headlights were UK spec, the glass lense was pulling away from the headlight bucket. I cleaned all surfaces, applied JB weld, let sit, and they never came apart or leaked even on a lifted Jeep running off road tires that had vibration.
Impressive!!
Have you used dp420, I believe it's a 3m product. Would like to see how you think it compares to original jb weld
Great suggestion! I'll see what I can do
How about just running a engine with marvel mystery oil only?
Will, Thanks for this idea!
An engine that's within spec would run for quite a while with Marvel only in the crankcase.
I've been running on tequila for quite some time.
Did you lubricate the rod or run it dry again?
Hmmm. Kinda what I was just thinking.... ;-)
It had no oil in it with a bad crank journal, no wonder it didn't last.
used JB to build up a stripped keyway in the end of a crankshaft on a dump truck v8 engine. The truck was used in a gravel pit hauling way over its limits, and sold 5 years later, still running great with no issues. I was impressed.
Thanks for sharing.
You should try making an entire connecting rod out of JB
Barry, this is great suggestion--thanks!
Make an entire engine out of JB.
1:00 - With that music, I thought I was watching Mentour Pilot's channel, lol.
LOL!
Yup, that was my first thought.... Mentour repairing the connecting rod from his CFM56s! Hopefully on the ground during turnaround and not in the air...
Lol same
radiator with no cap Zero pressure / i can not get jb weld past 180*F... like all other epoxys... turn to jelly at 180F
You are by far the best product tester I've seen
Thank you!
@1:00 I thought I was about to watch a Mentour pilot video. Haha
lol. Thank you
I came here to find this comment.
When my rear-view mirror fell off of my windshield, I tried those specially formulated glues to affix it. No luck. Then I tried epoxy, no luck. Then I tried JB weld, Bingo!
Great!
hey mate you should see what methanol does to a stock engine or even nitro ??
Thank you for this idea!
That would be awesome
We used to run methanol in 360 Honda engines in our race cars. Only mod we made was to drill out the jets. Methanol (or any alcohol) does not have as many BTU’s as gasoline, therefore you need more of it to make the same power, so the engine needs much bigger jetting. It’s the same reason you actually get more mileage with pure gasoline than you do with this ethanol contaminated fuel we are stuck with now. However the engine will run cooler on alky, which was why we ran it in our air-cooled engines.
Nothing glued together lasts unless it has a fastener holding it together love your videos keep it up
Thank you for the feedback
Is it strong enough to fix my heart...
Nice vid thanks pf ps please do plastic epoxies
This is a great suggestion. I plan to publish a video on plastic epoxies next week. Thanks again!
Project Farm yay thanks pf
Jleone leone: OMGoodness I must really be getting tired! I just rad your comment as: ..."Please do plastic explosives" !!! LMAO. Time for bed I guess. LOL. Too funny.
Putting chopped fiberglass fibers with jb weld will make some difference
Great tip!
Not trying to nuthug but, your test are some of the best tests I see I youtube. Complete and true tests simulating real life scenarios and the durability of products you demonstrate.
Before watching the video, prediction: NO
After video: Yup.
Thank you for the feedback
Everyone should check out chargermiles channel, he made a connecting rod completely out of in weld and it ran for several minutes
I'll check out his channel. Thanks for commenting!
i love chargermiles. he has a lot of awesome videos with briggs. he made a plastic piston and jbweld piston. also a lot of wood piston crown experiments
+m4xwellmurd3r I watch that dude all the time
Southern Mechanic it would probably be better to make a whole new rod out of jb weld than trying to hold together metal pieces of an old thrown rod.
Jordan Prier I agree, that's exactly what charger miles did
Try making the entire connecting rod out of jb weld
Will, this is a great suggestion--thanks!
Will be too brittle
Had JB weld repair a broken driver's side engine mount after it snapped off a piece of the block(accident), repaired it and never had issues. Also used it on a rear transmission mount that snapped off and the holes for the bolts stripped out. Fill the holes and put the mount back on with jb weld and held up at the track still working to this day. Surface prep is the biggest key factor
Thanks for the feedback.
I would like to see a comparison on 2 stroke oils in chainsaws
Ted, great point! Thanks for commenting!
Ted, thanks for subscribing!
That's called throwing a leg out of bed let this be a lesson don't repair con rods with glue 😂
lol. Thank you!
should have poured seafoam on it.
*Ave voice*
"Fuck yea she chooched!"
AVE HA!
Focus you fack
I used JB weld over three years ago on my Chevy #1 cylinder cracked exhaust manifold. 2021, still working just fine. The key to JB weld is the dry time. I find 48hrs best.
Thanks for sharing.
Cut a perfectly fine rod in half then try the same test again
This would be a great test! Having one that's in 5 pieces is asking way too much. Thanks for this recommendation!
I'm sure you've heard this a thousand times, but why do you give copyright-free artists billing?
planetrob555 I’m just guessing but
a) it’s a nice thing to do
b) saves a lot of “who is that song by?” Comments
Build a new connecting rod out of wood.
Thank you for this recommendation!
rz350ypvs1 surely bubblegum is the way to go
I'd bet that it wooden last 5 minutes.
@@carlyletom301
I doubt wood could last very long at all in that application, for a rod, it has too many stress points both from being pulled, and pushed that's why in high performance engines it's important that rods be very strong.
Gotta be hardwood not pine lol
I job welded a Mercury 2.4L V6 boat motor block. I was turning it 7000RPM on an Allison boat when it broke the crank, windowed the block, and gouged off the sealing ring ridges. I built them back up with JB. Patched the holes in the block with JB, filled the gouges in the pistons (from crank pieces catching in the ports) with JB, then slapped in a used crank and some used piston rings. I sold it a year later still running like that. It was a little hard to crank, but it would still push the boat into the 70's....
Thanks for the feedback!
You better watch out posting this! Might up labled disinformation! You just killed 90% of the horrible diy fixes on UA-cam with this video lolololol!
lol. Thank you!
Doesnt put oil in like before * me
Knowint no engiencan run without oil
Okay, I'm just beginning this video. I'm going to say that it's going to fail immediately.
I found this video because I was looking for a video of someone putting 2 part epoxy in a vehicle transmission. Still good content
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
I used it on my truck oil pan. Fixed it very good. Also used it on my transmission when drive shaft borke. It hit it, took chunk out if it. Jb weld is awsome.
Thank you for the feedback
Run an engine with clipper fluid and then Use filler to repair a scored piston, I love your videos man you’re an amazing creator
Thank you for the video idea!
I once had a valve seat drop out on my commercial walk behind mower. Without the time or funds to repair it JB weld held the seat in place for the rest of the season (2-3 months of 5 day per week mowing) i was incredibly impressed.
Thanks for sharing.
@@ProjectFarm thanks for your videos! i send them to all my engineer/mechanic friends.
Idk why I love watching this stuff so much
Thanks for watching.
One trick that I learned about JB Weld steel stik...apply on the surface and then cover the surroundings like a wall. Its still holding my engine block hole like a champ!!
Thank you!
We did things like that in our high school shop class, we never glued the rod back together, but we used JB Weld for all sorts of stuff such as repairing handle bar mounts for motorcycles.
Thanks for sharing.
Heliarced a broken rod cap on a buddy's compressor about 3 years ago...it's still running....old kz1300 6 cyl. Street bike...guy gave it to me...he had run it into a curb and it broke a hole in the lower case big enough to put your hand into...layed it on it's side and made forms with carboard and super glue...used the large size jb weld..all of it.. rode the bike for 3 years... no oil leak..buddy with a cad Northstar, ran it over a rock. Broke a 2x4 in piece out of the pan...pull the motor to replace it? Hell no. 3/8 aluminum plate same shspy as the bottom if the pan...drill 2. 3/8 holes for bolts, put seals on the bolts, made a bracket that hooked. Inside the pan, drill/tap holes..clean well and 2 kits small size jb weld..wipe off the excess...ya half to look twice to even notice it.. drove it every day for the past year, it doesn't even seep...
Ya the con rod...we knew it would not fly....but ya just had to prove it!
Ever used it on a head sealing surface? My BBC boat motor with aluminum heads,,, serious pitting around the water passages...Dremel out the pits for clean metal..jb weld with a razor blade...steel shim head gaskets. Used that nasty brown sealer....year later...maybe 200 hrs hard running time...pulled heads back off...jb weld still stuck...couple things you might tell people...jb quick weld is kinda worthless...and regular jb weld NEEDS 24 hrs cure time...hot weather, cold weather it don't matter. Do you know any history on jb? I'm 65 and it was around bwhen I was a kid.
You have a cool show...nuthin but in your face facts..keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do.
There are other pro adhesives designed to be literally stronger than metal. Loctite EA 3478 (aka fixmaster superior metal) is one. SikaPower-1277 is another. The latter is even designed to absorb oil from oily surfaces, helping maintain corrosion resistance. These produce machinable surfaces stronger than steel. Might be fun to play with some for a video someday ;)
Thanks for the suggestion.
I can’t believe that I use UA-cam every single day and I’m just now finding your channel over the last couple weeks I’ve watched a bunch of your vids. Thanks for the vids it’s fun to watch someone do stuff like this.
Wow, thank you!
I am so so glad you did not get hurt, flying parts everywhere.
Thanks!
How could this guy get 300 something thumbs down he explained everything perfect good detail good camera work good everything 👌👍👌👍 I just started watching his videos i always look forward to see what he does next
Thank you!
Great humble attitude but I'm sure you did your best to glue things together under the circumstances.