Im happy to see your channel growing being a 90,s teen falling in love with bass.. the youngins dont really know how valuable you are to the community... thank you big d.... the d is for (deserving) many blessing to you, your family, and your friends. God bless anyone who reads this... Yours truly basshead 🤕
I have been in live with bass since I was 13 and I am 38 now. It's not just bass either (with me at least) it's the entire process...... picking the equipment, measuring the space you have then designing and building the box, building the amp rack, putting them all together and turning them on then hearing that sweet sound..... there really is NOTHING like it!!! Also, if you have a system in your car and you are not constantly upgrading or at least have plans to upgrade then it loses the magic. ALWAYS improve!!! Btw my profile pic is what's in my trunk now
AIYIMA A07 mini audio amplifier *SHOP* AIYAMA A07 Amp with 32V adapter: amzn.to/3Xu0jEA AIYAMA 48V 5.2A Adapter: amzn.to/3H1CHSh *Related Videos* Douk Audio M1 Pro Mini Amp: ua-cam.com/video/WROm7jJbb2M/v-deo.html Mini Amp Video Playlist: bit.ly/3IMdtbN Amp Dyno Modes Explained: ua-cam.com/video/Q0m6NsB-HHc/v-deo.html More Power Output than Power Supply?: ua-cam.com/video/c7QELbpKMuI/v-deo.html *VIDEO INDEX* 0:00 Intro 0:40 Unboxing 1:26 Features and Specs 2:17 Additional Power Supply Options 3:02 Amp Dyno Tests 6:59 Sound Quality Tests 8:42 What's Inside? 9:55 Pros and Cons 10:42 Final Thoughts 11:05 EXTRAS *CAMERAS AND AUDIO GEAR* (Video Gear I Use) Camera - iPhone 13pro 1TB - amzn.to/3nCjGvc RODE Wireless Go II Microphones: amzn.to/3Q6NVHl Shure MV7 Microphone: amzn.to/3A4OICK Zoom H4n Audio Recorder: amzn.to/3BXjVsS 960 LED Panel: amzn.to/2Sxoq3S *TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT* SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
I bought this amp and using it daily in my system. It’s really good. I’m sure most people couldn’t tell the difference from my Audiolab 8000p (vintage class AB amp). I’m using a variable power supply that goes to 48V 7A which this amp can handle.
I bought the amp also. So at the end of the video, he says the line out can not be used with a subwoofer because it doesn't have a variable volume. Can you confirm that?
@@stevelouie5928 the line out does not vary with the volume. You can use with a sub, but you’ll need to adjust the volume of the sub separately. Not a good solution IMO
I've had dozens of these cheaper amps and this one is really fantastic. They sound great especially with the right pre amp. If you are looking, just buy it.
@@zephrizi9034 Aiyima t8 is a great cheap way to go ($139) . You can tube roll really cheap as well. Douk p1 is another cheap and pretty great option ($119) but no remote. Schiit Audio Freya plus would be my next step up but its around $900 Class D works well with tube If you don't have a streamer yet , you can try the wiim mini airplay 2 music streamer ($99) and run out of the 3mm aux out and buy a 3mm to rca adapter. Run it straight to the Aiyima A07 I would consider buying the wiim pro for a few dollars more ($149) and use Alexa device to have voice control. Run that straight to the Aiyima A07 with reg rca cables. I have not heard this option BUT..... it will give you all kinds of options plus you can use your phone BT to control everything. If you aren't happy with the last option, buy the pre Aiyima T8 or Douk p1 and run the wiim to the pre. Then Run the pre to your A07. You will have everything you need. If I was starting out.... I would buy the wiim pro, the Aiyima t8, and the Aiyima A07. T9 - $139 A07- $64 Wiim - $149 or $99 if you don't care about voice control All in $304-$354, you will have a decent dac, lossless streamer, pre, and a fantastic amp. You will not beat this set up for anywhere near this price If you want to go cheap as possible, Buy the Aiyima A07 and run from your phone headphone jack or computer directly $68 option If you have speakers you can bi amp, you can also daisy chain the Aiyima A07. Their are ways to make this work for subs as well. I have ran a sub using the 3mm out of the A07 and it worked. Its technically a full range out which is why you can Daisy chain the amp.
You watch cheapaudioman by chance? I've seen all the products you listed here on his channel, its how I got this amp. Its sweet, my first one so can't AB, but I'm happy with it!
These type of little amps are great for the price. I actually just had an Aperion 8D subwoofers amp kick the bucket. I pulled the plate amp off and removed all the guts and hooked up the subs to the input posts and then hooked up a little $69 sub amp to it and it works great again!
This amp as well as most chinese Tpa3255 based class d amplifier boards need some tweaking. First of all,at least 50 000uf caps needs to be added to DC input, otherwise low frequencys will suffer on medium to high volume,and voltage dropouts will ruin sound quality. You need to bypass 6 electrolyte caps where sound goes through, with propyline caps. 14th leg on tpa3255 datasheet or avdd needs more than 1uf cap,atleast 100uf. Inductors on output filter will work great for 4ohm speakers for 6-8ohm speakers other inductors must be implemented for lowest thd possible. PSU with good filtering is very important also,otherwise humming sound and other harmonics will get into sound. I am powering by tpa3255 of 31.5v 8x3 18650 battery.That is the cleanest power source,and I am quite satisfied with the sound.
The AIYIMA T8 is an excellent DAC to pair with this. Mine is connected to a Fosi Audio TB10D, and it works very well also. I've run everything from full sized floor tower speakers to testing car audio components and tweeters before installing them. Buy some good RCA's to go between the DAC. I'm using "World's Best Cables" with Canare Star Quad.
Thanks for the hard work, there's no better place on youtube! I have the Kinter TRIPATH K2020A with much less power, for 38 bucks on Amazon, then I bought a used SONY receiver, 2000 vintage, with 125 Watts/channel for 25 bucks! The Kinter is powering my computer speakers, a pair of Advent Baby 6.5" bookshelf speakers, and the SONY powers a pair of SONY SS U65 13" floor speakers bought recently for 40 bucks. If you count pennies and search the web, there are some great deals to be had.
I bought 3 of the Douk Audio amps you reviewed in an earlier video for Xmas gifts based on your video, and all the recipients were very happy with them. Plenty of power and excellent sound quality. The only issue with them, and something you would never uncover in your testing, is that their IR receptors are very common, meaning your tv or roku remote will errantly do things on the amp. But, they all have figured ways around it or have accustomed to it. I probably should have put this on that video, but this one reminded me of it, so there it is. lol
I respect this brand, I've tested it with speaker drivers and amps, everything worked well. I've made a 3 way sound bar from Aiyima parts and it performed perfectly.
My man BigD still killin' it years later. I remember watching the Orion hcca test when that came out. A suggestion for these chip amps, you can find adjustable dc-dc converters that are pretty powerful. One of those hooked up to your regular 14v setup stepping it up to 50 would make for a nice bonus test setup, or just regular testing with enough power. As long as the voltage is the same these psus aren't very fussy. You could also get a bunch of chargers from electric scooters and parallel them up. 36v ones actually output 42v and they're plentiful on the used market. At that point the barrel jack would be my concern. It could act as a current bottleneck. On a simple head unit speaker setup I threw together I used crappy wires to some 6x9's and it sounded like crap. I thought the Sony I had wasn't good but when testing it on the bench it was much better. I always oversize wires if I can. I saw plenty of times voltage dropping to 8 at the load when the source still had 12 just because the wiring wasn't good enough. I also melted some of those jack to screw terminal wire things. The wire inside them is very thin. I wouldn't run above 5amps through one of those cheapy jacks.
Thanks again Big D for showing us more value options! This thing packs quite a punch with a proper power supply however by the time you bought the amp and power supply you coulda have something better at the $175 price point like something by SMSL. Shout out to TI for giving me some chuckles too seeing their description of the product as "true premium sound" and "ultra low distortion" @ 10%THD. Anything over 1% is audible to the ear, my 10 year old budget Sony receiver has a THD of 0.08%
"my 10 year old budget Sony receiver has a THD of 0.08%" yes at what power output tho... and how many channels driven? i can asure you its over 10% with all channels driven and at 50% power. even the higher end marantz/denon receivers rate their stuff wrong... they even print "70% power guarantee" on the box , when it has 5 channels driven vs 2 channel.... (they lose 30% power when using 5 channels... like wtf) they all rate their stuff in weird ways.
What a clueless comment by Chris 😠 The "10% THD" spec on the TI page only relates to the Maximum Power Output specifications, and they quote other power outputs at lower distortion levels. If you actually paid attention and checked, you would find that the TPA3255 is rated for 0.006% THD at 1W, and it dips down to about 0.002% at 10W into 8 Ohm loads. Furthermore, the spec is THD+N (Noise), So, this little amp is spec'd at between 10 and 40 TIMES lower THD than your Sony's (best case) 0.08%.
Let me tell you, this A07 impresses even more - and how, you might ask? Simple - replace the two NE5532 Op Amps out (they are easily removable) and replace them either a Burson or Sparkos Labs discrete set of op-amps (there are 2 op amps inside the A07). The sound quality change then becomes quite remarkable, in that with the op-amp upgrade, the music becomes even more dynamic, more 3D-like, warmer in tonality - and (and this is a big and - in my opinion), the A07 now sounds a bit more like a class AB amp. So yes, you can do quite a few things with this A07. The other add-on that I brought in was a 40 Watt higher-end, quality Linear Power Supply (completely bypassing the stock external brick that comes with the A07) and the amp became even quieter - no noise whatsoever - no hiss - no hum - no RF feedback. So between the op-amp upgrade and getting a true linear power supply, this A07 now sounds more like an amp that runs from $800 top $1500.
I use the A07 with a 36v 10amp cage power supply. 360 watts. In the diy forums that is the sweet spot for this chip. The cost with cables comes to about $40. That's the real test.
Is there a link to the diy forums? Or maybe you can direct me to the specifics needed? I have the 48v 5 amp power supply now. Thanks! And Happy new year!
@@derekmaynard5619 You probably don't need to change if you are not using the A07. Early A07s used components that weren't rated high enough for the 48v supply. The capacitors were only rated to 50v.
Component cost of high end home audio amps are often split evenly between the amp and the power supply. In fact, even with $5K amps, the component compromise is almost always in the psu.
Sweet! I’ve got a few of these running on our family computers with the standard 32v Power Supply. Power supplies are the Foundation of any quality build …….of Anything! ……GIGO😎
Nice little bookshelf amp. I just snagged the new Fosi BT30 Pro which has two of those TPA 3255 chips and I have to say for it's size I'm very impressed so far. Haven't Dyno tested it yet but it runs a couple of Bose 251's really nicely. Quite clean output IMO. Still pondering which passive sub to use though. Also I noticed that this new model seems to have better control over the subwoofer frequency range adjustment than the previous model has. Both have power subwoofer output. Thanks for all you effort Derrick.
i love this amp!! i use 2 amps one per speaker an also use the 3.5mm output to a pair of subwoofers, i love having real left an right bass not just mono but just use my computer as main volume, sounds excellent, thanks for confirming what my ears knew, great amp
@@wal no , i match the speakers to the subs volume, then just use the computer as the main volume , that way everything stays in sync no matter the im using a crown xls1000 for the subs an just mono block the aiyima amps, i only use one channel per aiyima amp so should be more efficient
@@wal i also u this, Rolls MB15b ProMatch Balanced/Unbalanced Converter 3.5mm/RCA/XLR helps alot, takes consumer grade voltage to pro audio voltage, i have the aiyima amps 3.5mm go into that then into the crown, sorry if im not articulating this good
Another Pro you didnt mention here, and I dont know what trying to find the components would be like, BUT, ability to get to the components with simple tools is great. Very repairable for even a novice tech.
It has too many surface-mounted parts -- including the TPA3255 -- for "a novice tech" to repair other than to replace the op-amp and/or the big through-hole parts like the large capacitor and the inductors. Dealing with tiny surface-mounted components requires major league (de)soldering skills and manual dexterity
I just ordered one of these but didn't realise that the power output is less with the power supply that comes with it... I can only expect 107 watts x 2 running my 6 ohm speakers... (my speakers are rated at 140 watts) With your calculations that figure is bumped up to 133 watts, should be perfect! To get the full 300 watts you need to buy a 48v 10A switching power supply and wire up your own leads (beyond me). Mine came with a 36v 6A adapter. It's plenty loud though, a really awesome little piece of tech! Way better than my old Kenwood receiver!
Amazing chip and an amazing review (as always)! Those chips also support 2ohm loads by the way. Also, their SNR and minimum distortion specs are amazing! It's best to keep in mind that those distortion specs are at their lowest at lower voltages, say 24V, but then you're looking at less RMS power. In case anyone is curious they use a TPA3255 chip. 😉
The chips do support below rated impedance if you use lower voltage - or most importantly, keep it cool enough. My mono TAS5630 always went to protect with a 1 ohm load until a fan was used! The current limit will be your limiting factor (17 ~ 13 A peak depending on the resistor value, specified on datasheet) Would be curious how the distortion or current handling figures change by changing switching frequency (default at 450 kHz, 400 kHz for the 5630)
@@ruikazane5123 With running it in mono (PBTL), it is actually specced for running 2ohm loads. As for switching frequencies, pretty sure that it was something like higher switching frequencies mean less high frequency distortion to some extent but they can cause problems with EMI and noise
@@Elliott-Designs Just mentioned it because the amp on the vid is on BTL stereo and is rated for 4 ohms (hence PBTL goes to 2 ohms) and indeed you can still squeeze a bit more out of it before overcurrent protection kicks in. One thing that we learned with higher switching frequencies was efficiency penalties on discrete systems but extended bandwidth (and improved transient response for power supplies)...not really worth messing with in the end (though there are a few chips out there that does MHz switching, low power) These chip amps do exhibit a rise in distortion around 4, 5 KHz (which is somehow very audible with a TPA3116D2 at the extremes - 26+ volts and a tad less than 3 ohms, stereo) - raising the switching frequency might bring this rise higher up in the audio frequency range, or is it time for me to get a TPA3221 based board...
No need to try and be clever by saying _"In case anyone is curious they use a TPA3255 chip"_ - that was mentioned many times in the video, and he even showed the TI product page at 9:44 🙄😒
@@johncoops6897 Not trying to be clever at all, just completely missed that part somehow I guess. I was simply trying to give out some extra information I felt people might find useful, because that's what I do. Like all of you (presumably), I love audio. Moreso, I love sharing knowledge and helping people about the topic. Sorry this particular sentence frustrated you, it was never meant to come across that way.
Video is quite old, but here are my thoughts about power supplies and testing: I paired 2x24V LED PSUs to get 48V of output. Not every PSU will handle it so make sure to make first some tests without AMP. I used 2 this same brand and model PSUs. Other method of testing would be to test each channel separately. In this scenario only one channel would draw power from PSU.
Great info on these types. Better than Consumer Reports. It would be good to see you put em thru the paces on other models when you get the time. This is the kind of info that is needed on these little mini amps for desk top application (or small-ish rooms)
@@drh3b seems to me yrs ago like in the late `70s on thru the `80s they would show the actual RMS for amps and what not, but like you say not any more sadly.
I use this amp in my home theater to power two of my Atmos celling speakers. Also if you want the full 300 watts a channel you have to get the 48v 10a power supply for it. While I think it's stupid that they advertise it as putting out 300 watts a channel, but don't provide the power supply that will do it, I do believe it will do it because the manufacturer provides tons of measurements for this amp showing that it will do it.
I have a D Class amp (BRZHiFi M6) with a line level output (labeled Sub Out) that also has no variable volume. I have a subwoofer hooked up to it and have the volume on the amp fixed at a level such that the volume output to the sub is matched (to my liking) to the speaker output (in my case '70' out of a max of '80'). I then use the source volume control (in my case my laptop) to vary the volume output of the system. Sounds great at all volumes to me, although obviously a sub-optimal setup. Further on the run refinement of bass, mids and treble can be made through either the tone controls on the amplifier or graphic equalizer software.
i have this amp running 48v 7.5amp with OPA1656 opamps and elac debut 2.0 B6.2 works great, you have different caps than my model by brand and earlier models had 80v caps such as on asr forums users have shown many different main caps being used, overall a good little desktop amp IMO pairs well with my FiiO K5 pro ESS for desktop nearfield usage.
Hi, I have the stock 32v and a 24 6.25amp with the same speakers. Do you recommend me a 48v one? I listen at low volume, don't need more headroom and I'm good with the 24v at the moment but I never tried a 48v one :D
@@manuelamadio1995 i wouldnt bother with it if you listen at low volumes, ive found even with the stock psu i didnt get too high in the volume before it was annoying nearfield. one of the main reasons is the price of the power supply can quickly be close to the price of the amp. also the amp is gonna get hotter with 48v so you would need to drill holes in the top as i did so the tiny heat sink has airflow.
I’m a 1:13 into the video. 32 volt 5 amp does not equal 600 watts. I’m going guess maybe 65 a channel. So I was off. Very impressive with the bigger power supply. Great video big D. If that line out was controlled by the volume knob I’d be ordering one right now.
I’ve been looking for true power specs of this board. Thanks Dereck ! I was going to put together 2 ICEpower 50ASX2BTL for 2x170 for a custom set of monitors I’m currently designing. My tylers are currently on some hypex amps and that’s not changing however I’m not putting that much money into this additional monitoring setup especially for the b room that doesn’t need to get that loud, rather than dynamic. These tpa3255 with my Mean Well LRS-350-48s just sitting around can make more than enough power for what I want to use them for and this video just confirmed via the dyno. 48v at 7.3a, luckily I won’t NEED to drive to speakers but I’d rather have headroom and the power on demand. , the tpa3255 is gonna save me money time and headaches. I’m going fully balanced with xlr inputs and getting an aluminum rack mount case made for the project. Overall it’ll be a $300-400 project, nothing vs my hypex ncore setup plus the d2x’s when I got them were like $7800 The tpa3255 can truly handle 52v before thermal issues start and it’s starts going into protect
I'm currently running this amp behind a FX AUDIO TUBE 03. Beautiful combination. I just love that sound! I did also replace those plugin ICs in both units for much faster ones as well. Great sound!! I run a pair of guitar amp 12s with tweeters.
It almost makes you wonder what kind of power you could get it you built a really solid 1500W DC power supply and ran a few of these daisy-chained. It certainly would look a bit unusual, but the setup might look cool with them all on the shelf together. Also, I like the new extro/outtro, nice.
The big issue that these chip amps have is that they don't internally regulate the voltage. You can basically determine output power by V=IR, where V is the power supply voltage and R is the speaker resistance... In order to get serious power out of these chips, you have to crank up the input voltage, however, the chips are limited in what voltages they can handle, and so bridging / coupling of the amps in any way is basically useless. Also, compared to other amps they tend to have high distortion figures. Now, it's still within reason for audibility, but if I was building a nice stereo system, I'd go with something not based on one of the chips.
@@Durkhead True, I do like active crossovers and ‘n’-amping. But I would encourage you to look into modern class d designs. Stuff like the hypex / purifi and ice power designs all have distortion performance which destroys most class a/b amps. They are also relatively inexpensive very powerful, and very power efficient. If I ever get around to building my next stereo system, it will probably be based off a custom DSP board and ice power amp modules for everything.
This amplifier has a version A07 PRO where the Bluetooth aptX HD chip is built in, as well as a timbre block. The amplifier is very good for its money, but it is better not to take a complete power supply, it is frankly weak in power. I have an amplifier connected to an external 48V 12A power supply, which is quite enough. I would advise you to change the power capacitors inside the amplifier to a voltage of 100V and increase their capacity.
Hi, I buy a07pro, I have a pair of "Mission Lx2" 6ohm 100watt speakers. I hesitate between a 24v10a/36v5a/48v5a power supply. Which one do you recommend?
@@НиктоНеизвестный What do you think of this: "It's best to keep in mind that those distortion specs are at their lowest at lower voltages, say 24V, but then you're looking at less RMSpower."
@@bostongeorges937 I think there is an inverse relationship. The higher the voltage, the greater the margin for undistorted signal. It is not necessary to use the amplifier at full power. Just with increased voltage, you will have a margin for a clean signal. And at low voltage, you will quickly hit the limit. Especially considering that your speakers are 6 ohms.
@@wal let it burn in for over 3 days straight. You will find that this amp will give you really clean sound with a very clean dac like the smsL do100 (not Bluetooth) or the topping d10s
@@trauma50disaster1 I'm in the audiophile community. There is no prerequisite for your gear to be over a certain amount or over a certain weight. People just want to best sound. Once in a while a unicorn comes around like this amp and some dacs. By the way you can make this amp sound even better with special op amps but they are $85 each and you need two of them
I have the tda7498 2.1 wired at 2ohm on all channels in my work van powering a full Sundown Audio setup lol. Four 9ah 18v Waitley batteries wired in series/parallel for 40v 18ah. Sundown U 8" in a T line and 6x8 e series Sundown coaxials in the doors and the 5.25 version in the a-pillar/dash area. Run it for 8 hours a day at moderate volume. Sounds great and slams!
I have A04, A07 and S01 which is the woofer amp with 100W @ 4ohm and xover is at 80Hz, with miniDSP these do amazing job powering any kinds of speakers.
LOVE this video review! Great job. I bought this amplifier a while back. I used a 12v - 48v (10 amp) step up booster with lithium batteries. I tried and tried to get higher power levels out of this amp and expected it to outperform the many other digital chip amps I use. It just would not pump. My thoughts at the time 1) unimpressed with the power 2) unimpressed with the sound quality (really distorted and hallow sounding). I dug into the specs and architecture. They were using a subpar preamp chip (but, was upgradable) in the lot I bought. Weird, and was prob the culprit. So, my thinking is that the one you tested in this video had the upgraded pre-amp section (buttery smooth Class A like). Mine sounded like a Texas cow pile with flies on a hot day...even with the included 32v 5 amp adapter. I even tried a Dayton Audio 36v adapter...no change. I even tried a DC power supply, no change. I sent it back for a refund. I am GLAD yours worked...maybe I should give it another chance?
Great review. This amp can indeed be used with a subwoofer. Running off of the 3.5-inch connector. I have my amp running a set of Klipsch R-15M and a R-12SW. Also upgraded the OP Amps to Sparkos Labs SS3602. So far a great combination.
@@bendermi aiyima t9 but it's down on power but with the money I've spend grands on amps from n.a.d to Yamaha and this amp is that good but I would recommend using the a07 as a power amp .....the t9 got everything on it for cheap lol don't know how they do it if you're speakers are 90db over close than your good mine are 88db so I need more so amp using a07 as Poweramp
@@mobeatzleedsDoh! Forgot he adds extras. I added a Volbox inline audio volume control to deal with the volume issue for the sub. Now I can run the bass from my chair. Ran it under my desk to keep it tidey. This is for my PC 2.1 setup. Turned the volume on the sub and the A07 to half way. Love the versatility of this little amp. Waiting on a 36v 10A power supply adapter. Should let me add some overhead. And yes it does sound great to my ears.
Good one!! This pretty much sums audio up in a nutshell right here. Most of your $ for any new amp goes to the cost of its power supply. Better your power quantity & quality, better your sound.
People seem to really want to see these mini amps as the views are usually good. I love testing all amps and more so it’s fun to mix things up a bit at times 😏
Out of all the audio stuff i buy, these lil bluetooth class d amps are truly the most impressive, especially the 2.1 versions. I use one for bose double cubes and american bass xr subwoofer in skar box.. truly amazing the flex i get.
Thanks for showing that the 3.5mm output is fixed volume. I have the Fosi Audio TB10D, which doesn't have this, and I thought that I might need to get the A07 if I ever want to use a sub.
I have the A07 in the shop for the last year. Nice amp, the volume pot is a little noisy now. The TI chips have great sound. They also have socket Op amps so you can upgrade which I did. This one does not sound quite as nice as the smaller TI chip but its close.
3:39 Assuming RMS voltage, the maximum power available (assuming no losses) from a 32V supply into 8Ω is 128W or 2*64W (so 65W would be impossible, unless there's up-conversion of voltage going on in the amp - which I doubt). 53W output gives an efficiency of ≈ 83%, about right for Class D amp. 4:48 That's impressive, given that the power supply is rated at 32V and 5A, i.e. 160W or 80W/channel.. 5:29 As would be expected since the power supply can only provide a maximum of 249.6/2 W/C. 12:37 388W from a 249.6 supply, interesting.
Very insightful comment and thus shows theoretical vs actual. The 250W power supply has the capability to output much more than 250W for short periods, explaining the 388W from the 250W supply. RMS does not infer “continuous” power thus allowing this amp to produce more because the power supply has an increased surge capability which fits into the duration utilized by the testing device to determine RMS power
These little amps are great, I just can't get used to the size, my old sony amp from the 90'S IS MASSIVE, weighs about 25 lb, still sounds great still going strong. I could cook an egg on top after a loud session!
Another reason you can get so many watts from this setup is the TPA3255 is set so that the Class-D modulation is -180 degrees- *60 degrees* out of phase between the two channels when in stereo BTL mode. When one speaker is getting power the other speaker is not and this is happening at a modulation frequency of around 500KHz to 600KHz, way outside the range of human hearing and way outside the power supplies switching frequency. This just allows the chip to suck a little bit more juice from any supply even though it's powering two speakers because it isn't powering both at once. The output filters in a Class-D amp are designed to make it look like a constant signal to the speakers. Win win win...
@Douglas Blake I'm sorry, it is 60 degrees. It is a Class-D chip and the interchannel delay for idle switching makes left and right channels fire 60 degrees out of phase in stereo BTL mode. Page 24 of the TPA3255 datasheet. This allows the chip to pass less current all at once by timing how it powers each internal mosfet...
I like that they socketed the opamps, the 5532's are alright, but makes an easy upgrade to a 4562, 49720 etc. Sounded fine for what it is as well. Full bridge unfortunately so no good for cheapo sub duty (unless dvc)
Even if the bass comes out well, it clumps up. Put the four internal pseudocapacitors (1uf) Replacing it with 0.68uf improves the high notes and mid-range.
It would be cool if you could test this with a 7.5a power supply to see if you can get any more out of it. You can get Meanwell 48v, 7.5a (360w) power supplies on amazon for $23 or so, but you will have to wire the line voltage and wire them to an appropriate barrel connector to the output on your own. Messing with electricity isn't for everyone, but I imagine this is within your range of capability. Meanwell isn't a household name but they are a leading manufacturer of power supplies, LED lighting chips, and various other electronic components, so you should be able to trust their equipment won't start a fire.
*try a switching power supply, one that has adjustable voltage and amperage. Also be careful running these enclosed mini amps, they run hot and can REALLY benefit from have holes drilled into the top and a fan added or just some sort of ventilation going across it. Cant wait to see more mini amp vids*
I picked up another denon 3800h today and I seemed to have did what I wanted in auro3D, which is 5.1.6 to 7.1.8. But who knows I have no idea what I'm doing. Just plugged the output of one to the input of the 2nd, messed around in video option to turn monitor 1/2 to activate and I got sound, I already had picture. Then I go to to the speakers plug them in and it works, also the info button shows the channels active as intended. But again I'm prob looking at something wrong. The remote works for both. I can get a 16th channel using the vog of the 2nd avr and 8 subs.
Thanks for the Test. Aiyima also has a second version of this TPA3255 amp with an internal powersupply capable of the 630w, Bluetooth receiver, USB-DAC and line-in. It's the AIYIMA A08. Would love to see a test of it, too. Would be interesting to see how much the power supply of the A08 can actually provide
Just noticed that the A08 300w x 2 model isn't available anymore and got replaced. There is a new version of it, the "A08 Upgrade A200", but it only has 200w x 2
There's an A07 Pro out now but ASR forumites don't seem to like it (going by recent chatter, anyway) and consider it a downgrade. I own the A08 Pro, which I've had since September 2022 (the versions all get a bit confusing!). All of these amps are TPA3255.
Very impressive D. I like that back rub song. I watch another guy named Cheap audio man and he has these types of amps but you actually tested one. Nice!🤛
Love this review! This amp is impressive with that great power supply! I admit to being skeptical at first but seeing and hearing is believing! Great am for the price!
All in all, this little guy sounds awesome! Would be a great little bedroom, kitchen or bathroom setup. Thank you Big D for what you do! I hope the new year is being kind to you🍻
I used to be all about the fancy amplifiers, Yamaha, Kenwood, Onkyo etc.. but now for most of my setup's (not in the movie room) I just use these. They are great little amps especially for computers and gaming or somewhere you need sound. I have several by YJHIFI that I believe use the TPA3116 which is a 50W*2 + 100W sub and the sound is actually pretty damn good. They are basically the same as the Douk Audio you did a review on about a year ago. I built several Overnight Sensations MTM with 8 inch Infinity Sub for each system (me and my kids) and they put out some good tunes. Look up 'Decaf White Clouds' here on YT. They hit every note DEEP and clean.
@@automachinehead Your intuitive powers of reasoning area seriously flawed and no, I am not nor ever have been paid for any review. I'm just a guy like Wilson that likes audio equipment. so see if you can figure out this one out: GFYS
What a world we live in. We can hop on Amazon and buy a 1/3 RU amplifier rated at 300x2 watts, that _actually can_ do 300x2 watts, fairly affordably. If power can be conjured, that little one could trade blows with some professional amps I've used (and even beat a couple that I own). Cool find. 👍
well you can't thought...good luch getting a psu that has good reviews and not have a guy saying every third one breaks. Plus some claim 48/10 but only at 220v.
@@trauma50disaster1 48v is an increasingly common voltage for off-grid power systems. Plus, some "mild hybrid" power trains use 48v motors. Something like this could be great for tailgating.
Impressive mini. The D9's I have yt playing through are asking "can we get that daddy" while the neighbors are saying noooo please no. Excellent find man 👍✌️
Oh yeah...finally a 3255! Could have tried your battery bank but wire the batteries in series or get a generic power supply but personally...running 48v on that unit is a bit close to the sun with 50v caps! Now I will wait for a TAS5630 amp board test, running a mono version at 40v with a 2 ohm sub wired to 1 ohm and it do bump!
My problem with some of these little amps is that they don't seem to have capability to sustain output at low frequency. The adapters just aren't designed to manage such dynamic changes in current draw at a guess. I had been looking to use the 300W versions for running buttkicker and ended up having problems with the input sensitivity of the amps I tested. I think it's better to not use the laptop style power supplies and instead buy a proper PSU and put it in a small enclosure off desk or out of site.
sometimes its not the loudness you want the power for, you want it for cone control and for the speaker to not shit itself when trying to play bass notes or crackling mids and highs at medium to high volumes which generally happens when you run out of power.
I recently refit my custom boombox with a 2.1 amp off Amazon (DAJUNGUO TDA7498E $49.99) I bought a amazon 10A 36v switching power supply $27.99, and that little amp has some sack! The box has two 8" dynalab woofers, 2 soundstream tweets and I replaced the old mehh goldwood sub with a Recoil 8" Echo series sub another impressive product. Each driver is in about a cubic foot,Very happy BUT the D2 sub was out so I got a D4 and rolled the dice on 2 ohms.... I had to buy another amp she popped.... So Do not use 2 ohms it will not take it! in all fairness it says 4 ohm stable but I took the risk that gamble cost me $50. So even wired to 8 ohm on that amp the sub jumps! That baby recoil sub will play at high excursion for hours nonstop ! I was like its gonna pop.... nope🤯 just keeps flexin an pumpin out nice bass. I was impressed with it's performance.
Wow, that is a bad ass single chip amplifier. Very nice, and I was surprised by the 36vdc and 48vdc input. Its crazy they accept a 48v power supply. You can probably get an adjustable power supply that can do 48vdc at 15 or 20 amps, or use a charger meant to charge 48vdc battery setups for solar power storage.
I use a 1800 watt buck boost DC to DC that cost 18$ and power it with my 13.8v 55a DC power supply that way I can set it exactly at the voltage and amperage it needs and that mofo has power
Hey Williston...Recently came across the NEW LINE MAF Series MA AUDIO monoblock amplifiers..The MAF 1500D(1500W RMS @ 1ohm)...and The MAF 2500D(2500W rms @ 1 ohm)...could you please do a DYNO on either of these Amps?...MA AUDIO IS BACK!!
It is possible to make the 3.5mm aux out variable for pre-out as the aux out just happened to sit right before the potentiometer (volume knob), just re-route it to the other side (after the potentiometer) and it will go along with the volume knob
I suggest checking out thrift stores that usually have a large electronics section to find a power supply with the specs you need. Me, I just go to the boxes in closets and basement filled with saved, cables and power supplies - you know those boxes my wife keeps telling me I need to get rid of.
My A07 broke after 4 months and their support won't respond to me!!! I hit the support email in their manual as well as the official aiyima seller's email from amazon. I included all info required for support in their manual and included video footage of the failure. Rip for me.
Im happy to see your channel growing being a 90,s teen falling in love with bass.. the youngins dont really know how valuable you are to the community... thank you big d.... the d is for (deserving) many blessing to you, your family, and your friends.
God bless anyone who reads this...
Yours truly basshead 🤕
Thank you for the kind comment!
Exactly! We had to roll the dice when we didn't know someone with the equipment. Wasted a lot of money. 😥
I have been in live with bass since I was 13 and I am 38 now. It's not just bass either (with me at least) it's the entire process...... picking the equipment, measuring the space you have then designing and building the box, building the amp rack, putting them all together and turning them on then hearing that sweet sound..... there really is NOTHING like it!!! Also, if you have a system in your car and you are not constantly upgrading or at least have plans to upgrade then it loses the magic. ALWAYS improve!!! Btw my profile pic is what's in my trunk now
@@markfrank5937 yuuup most of them were more spectacular when they weren't playing music 😂
@@johnpolaski6126 😂 I fell for that many times. 😂
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How is this comment 2 days old but the video is 5
@@ShiaGaming88 video is released early for my Patreon subscribers
@@wal oh
That's a nice little amp! Power it with a 36/48 V tool or e-bike battery and it should make a great setup for mobile use.
Some of these mini amps are incredibly good value for digital use
I bought this amp and using it daily in my system. It’s really good. I’m sure most people couldn’t tell the difference from my Audiolab 8000p (vintage class AB amp). I’m using a variable power supply that goes to 48V 7A which this amp can handle.
👌😬👍
I bought the amp also. So at the end of the video, he says the line out can not be used with a subwoofer because it doesn't have a variable volume. Can you confirm that?
@@stevelouie5928 the line out does not vary with the volume. You can use with a sub, but you’ll need to adjust the volume of the sub separately. Not a good solution IMO
@@wal That means you just have to use the speaker line out to a sub with a speaker out.
Sade reference. I love it. When I was growing up my mom would blast this on the weekend cleaning. Smooth Operator included.
I've had dozens of these cheaper amps and this one is really fantastic. They sound great especially with the right pre amp. If you are looking, just buy it.
Got any preamp recommendations?
@@zephrizi9034 Aiyima t8 is a great cheap way to go ($139) . You can tube roll really cheap as well.
Douk p1 is another cheap and pretty great option ($119) but no remote.
Schiit Audio Freya plus would be my next step up but its around $900
Class D works well with tube
If you don't have a streamer yet , you can try the wiim mini airplay 2 music streamer ($99) and run out of the 3mm aux out and buy a 3mm to rca adapter. Run it straight to the Aiyima A07
I would consider buying the wiim pro for a few dollars more ($149) and use Alexa device to have voice control. Run that straight to the Aiyima A07 with reg rca cables.
I have not heard this option BUT..... it will give you all kinds of options plus you can use your phone BT to control everything.
If you aren't happy with the last option, buy the pre Aiyima T8 or Douk p1 and run the wiim to the pre. Then Run the pre to your A07. You will have everything you need.
If I was starting out.... I would buy the wiim pro, the Aiyima t8, and the Aiyima A07.
T9 - $139
A07- $64
Wiim - $149 or $99 if you don't care about voice control
All in $304-$354, you will have a decent dac, lossless streamer, pre, and a fantastic amp.
You will not beat this set up for anywhere near this price
If you want to go cheap as possible,
Buy the Aiyima A07 and run from your phone headphone jack or computer directly
$68 option
If you have speakers you can bi amp, you can also daisy chain the Aiyima A07. Their are ways to make this work for subs as well. I have ran a sub using the 3mm out of the A07 and it worked. Its technically a full range out which is why you can Daisy chain the amp.
@@birdyflying4240 the A07 is the best amp for any where close to the money. Its truly a hifi gem!!
lmao paid reviewer spotted
You watch cheapaudioman by chance? I've seen all the products you listed here on his channel, its how I got this amp. Its sweet, my first one so can't AB, but I'm happy with it!
These type of little amps are great for the price. I actually just had an Aperion 8D subwoofers amp kick the bucket. I pulled the plate amp off and removed all the guts and hooked up the subs to the input posts and then hooked up a little $69 sub amp to it and it works great again!
This amp as well as most chinese Tpa3255 based class d amplifier boards need some tweaking.
First of all,at least 50 000uf caps needs to be added to DC input, otherwise low frequencys will suffer on medium to high volume,and voltage dropouts will ruin sound quality.
You need to bypass 6 electrolyte caps where sound goes through, with propyline caps.
14th leg on tpa3255 datasheet or avdd needs more than 1uf cap,atleast 100uf.
Inductors on output filter will work great for 4ohm speakers for 6-8ohm speakers other inductors must be implemented for lowest thd possible.
PSU with good filtering is very important also,otherwise humming sound and other harmonics will get into sound.
I am powering by tpa3255 of 31.5v 8x3 18650 battery.That is the cleanest power source,and I am quite satisfied with the sound.
The AIYIMA T8 is an excellent DAC to pair with this. Mine is connected to a Fosi Audio TB10D, and it works very well also. I've run everything from full sized floor tower speakers to testing car audio components and tweeters before installing them. Buy some good RCA's to go between the DAC. I'm using "World's Best Cables" with Canare Star Quad.
DAC kullanmazsak , A07 pro sadece tek cihaz kullarnırsak DAC olmadan ses kalitesi arasında çok ciddi fark varmı ?? teşekkurler
Thanks for the hard work, there's no better place on youtube! I have the Kinter TRIPATH K2020A with much less power, for 38 bucks on Amazon, then I bought a used SONY receiver, 2000 vintage, with 125 Watts/channel for 25 bucks! The Kinter is powering my computer speakers, a pair of Advent Baby 6.5" bookshelf speakers, and the SONY powers a pair of SONY SS U65 13" floor speakers bought recently for 40 bucks. If you count pennies and search the web, there are some great deals to be had.
I bought 3 of the Douk Audio amps you reviewed in an earlier video for Xmas gifts based on your video, and all the recipients were very happy with them. Plenty of power and excellent sound quality. The only issue with them, and something you would never uncover in your testing, is that their IR receptors are very common, meaning your tv or roku remote will errantly do things on the amp. But, they all have figured ways around it or have accustomed to it. I probably should have put this on that video, but this one reminded me of it, so there it is. lol
Great feedback, thanks!
I respect this brand, I've tested it with speaker drivers and amps, everything worked well. I've made a 3 way sound bar from Aiyima parts and it performed perfectly.
My man BigD still killin' it years later. I remember watching the Orion hcca test when that came out. A suggestion for these chip amps, you can find adjustable dc-dc converters that are pretty powerful. One of those hooked up to your regular 14v setup stepping it up to 50 would make for a nice bonus test setup, or just regular testing with enough power. As long as the voltage is the same these psus aren't very fussy. You could also get a bunch of chargers from electric scooters and parallel them up. 36v ones actually output 42v and they're plentiful on the used market. At that point the barrel jack would be my concern. It could act as a current bottleneck. On a simple head unit speaker setup I threw together I used crappy wires to some 6x9's and it sounded like crap. I thought the Sony I had wasn't good but when testing it on the bench it was much better. I always oversize wires if I can. I saw plenty of times voltage dropping to 8 at the load when the source still had 12 just because the wiring wasn't good enough. I also melted some of those jack to screw terminal wire things. The wire inside them is very thin. I wouldn't run above 5amps through one of those cheapy jacks.
2:16 you can get the 48-volt pretty cheap on Alibaba Express... The one in the metal cases used for buck converter power supplies all the time.
Thanks again Big D for showing us more value options! This thing packs quite a punch with a proper power supply however by the time you bought the amp and power supply you coulda have something better at the $175 price point like something by SMSL. Shout out to TI for giving me some chuckles too seeing their description of the product as "true premium sound" and "ultra low distortion" @ 10%THD. Anything over 1% is audible to the ear, my 10 year old budget Sony receiver has a THD of 0.08%
the texas instruments tpa 3255 board is a lot better than SMSL
"my 10 year old budget Sony receiver has a THD of 0.08%"
yes at what power output tho... and how many channels driven? i can asure you its over 10% with all channels driven and at 50% power. even the higher end marantz/denon receivers rate their stuff wrong... they even print "70% power guarantee" on the box , when it has 5 channels driven vs 2 channel.... (they lose 30% power when using 5 channels... like wtf)
they all rate their stuff in weird ways.
What a clueless comment by Chris 😠 The "10% THD" spec on the TI page only relates to the Maximum Power Output specifications, and they quote other power outputs at lower distortion levels.
If you actually paid attention and checked, you would find that the TPA3255 is rated for 0.006% THD at 1W, and it dips down to about 0.002% at 10W into 8 Ohm loads. Furthermore, the spec is THD+N (Noise),
So, this little amp is spec'd at between 10 and 40 TIMES lower THD than your Sony's (best case) 0.08%.
I got the Aiyima A9 valve amp. Brilliant little amp for the money. I would highly recommend it to anyone.
I got a lot of Aiyima Products, from 2.1 board amplifier to little 4ohm 15w speakers, bang for the buck and the quality is superb.
Let me tell you, this A07 impresses even more - and how, you might ask? Simple - replace the two NE5532 Op Amps out (they are easily removable) and replace them either a Burson or Sparkos Labs discrete set of op-amps (there are 2 op amps inside the A07). The sound quality change then becomes quite remarkable, in that with the op-amp upgrade, the music becomes even more dynamic, more 3D-like, warmer in tonality - and (and this is a big and - in my opinion), the A07 now sounds a bit more like a class AB amp. So yes, you can do quite a few things with this A07.
The other add-on that I brought in was a 40 Watt higher-end, quality Linear Power Supply (completely bypassing the stock external brick that comes with the A07) and the amp became even quieter - no noise whatsoever - no hiss - no hum - no RF feedback. So between the op-amp upgrade and getting a true linear power supply, this A07 now sounds more like an amp that runs from $800 top $1500.
Thanks for the tips! A link to the power supply would be helpful.
I have bought this one ! Loving it. I provide it with 48 Volts and it is driving my Infinity Kappa speakers with full stage hearing experience.
Can you eleborate on 'full stage hearing experience'? What does that mean?
@@34332 I mean that I am very satisfied with the power and the sound of this small unit.
I use the A07 with a 36v 10amp cage power supply. 360 watts. In the diy forums that is the sweet spot for this chip. The cost with cables comes to about $40. That's the real test.
@@Douglas_Blake I never expected to get 100% efficiency. Best case would be 85%. But the unit performs better overall than with 48v.
@@Douglas_Blake Thanks for the clarification.
Is there a link to the diy forums? Or maybe you can direct me to the specifics needed? I have the 48v 5 amp power supply now. Thanks! And Happy new year!
@@derekmaynard5619 You probably don't need to change if you are not using the A07. Early A07s used components that weren't rated high enough for the 48v supply. The capacitors were only rated to 50v.
Component cost of high end home audio amps are often split evenly between the amp and the power supply. In fact, even with $5K amps, the component compromise is almost always in the psu.
Sweet!
I’ve got a few of these running on our family computers with the standard 32v Power Supply.
Power supplies are the Foundation of any quality build …….of Anything! ……GIGO😎
It's crazy how these tiny chips put out so much juice 😍 gotta love modern tech.
Nice little bookshelf amp. I just snagged the new Fosi BT30 Pro which has two of those TPA 3255 chips and I have to say for it's size I'm very impressed so far. Haven't Dyno tested it yet but it runs a couple of Bose 251's really nicely. Quite clean output IMO. Still pondering which passive sub to use though.
Also I noticed that this new model seems to have better control over the subwoofer frequency range adjustment than the previous model has. Both have power subwoofer output.
Thanks for all you effort Derrick.
i love this amp!! i use 2 amps one per speaker an also use the 3.5mm output to a pair of subwoofers, i love having real left an right bass not just mono but just use my computer as main volume, sounds excellent, thanks for confirming what my ears knew, great amp
How does that fixed 3.5mm line out work for you with the subs? Do you adjust your subwoofer volume independently with the volume of this amp?
@@wal no , i match the speakers to the subs volume, then just use the computer as the main volume , that way everything stays in sync no matter the im using a crown xls1000 for the subs an just mono block the aiyima amps, i only use one channel per aiyima amp so should be more efficient
@@wal that did throw me off at first tho the fixed voltage thing was kinda odd but we always find a way to play some beats lol
@@wal i also u this, Rolls MB15b ProMatch Balanced/Unbalanced Converter 3.5mm/RCA/XLR helps alot, takes consumer grade voltage to pro audio voltage, i have the aiyima amps 3.5mm go into that then into the crown, sorry if im not articulating this good
Another Pro you didnt mention here, and I dont know what trying to find the components would be like, BUT, ability to get to the components with simple tools is great. Very repairable for even a novice tech.
Great point!
It has too many surface-mounted parts -- including the TPA3255 -- for "a novice tech" to repair other than to replace the op-amp and/or the big through-hole parts like the large capacitor and the inductors. Dealing with tiny surface-mounted components requires major league (de)soldering skills and manual dexterity
I just ordered one of these but didn't realise that the power output is less with the power supply that comes with it... I can only expect 107 watts x 2 running my 6 ohm speakers... (my speakers are rated at 140 watts) With your calculations that figure is bumped up to 133 watts, should be perfect! To get the full 300 watts you need to buy a 48v 10A switching power supply and wire up your own leads (beyond me). Mine came with a 36v 6A adapter. It's plenty loud though, a really awesome little piece of tech! Way better than my old Kenwood receiver!
Amazing chip and an amazing review (as always)! Those chips also support 2ohm loads by the way. Also, their SNR and minimum distortion specs are amazing! It's best to keep in mind that those distortion specs are at their lowest at lower voltages, say 24V, but then you're looking at less RMS power.
In case anyone is curious they use a TPA3255 chip. 😉
The chips do support below rated impedance if you use lower voltage - or most importantly, keep it cool enough. My mono TAS5630 always went to protect with a 1 ohm load until a fan was used! The current limit will be your limiting factor (17 ~ 13 A peak depending on the resistor value, specified on datasheet)
Would be curious how the distortion or current handling figures change by changing switching frequency (default at 450 kHz, 400 kHz for the 5630)
@@ruikazane5123 With running it in mono (PBTL), it is actually specced for running 2ohm loads. As for switching frequencies, pretty sure that it was something like higher switching frequencies mean less high frequency distortion to some extent but they can cause problems with EMI and noise
@@Elliott-Designs Just mentioned it because the amp on the vid is on BTL stereo and is rated for 4 ohms (hence PBTL goes to 2 ohms) and indeed you can still squeeze a bit more out of it before overcurrent protection kicks in. One thing that we learned with higher switching frequencies was efficiency penalties on discrete systems but extended bandwidth (and improved transient response for power supplies)...not really worth messing with in the end (though there are a few chips out there that does MHz switching, low power)
These chip amps do exhibit a rise in distortion around 4, 5 KHz (which is somehow very audible with a TPA3116D2 at the extremes - 26+ volts and a tad less than 3 ohms, stereo) - raising the switching frequency might bring this rise higher up in the audio frequency range, or is it time for me to get a TPA3221 based board...
No need to try and be clever by saying _"In case anyone is curious they use a TPA3255 chip"_ - that was mentioned many times in the video, and he even showed the TI product page at 9:44 🙄😒
@@johncoops6897 Not trying to be clever at all, just completely missed that part somehow I guess. I was simply trying to give out some extra information I felt people might find useful, because that's what I do. Like all of you (presumably), I love audio. Moreso, I love sharing knowledge and helping people about the topic. Sorry this particular sentence frustrated you, it was never meant to come across that way.
Video is quite old, but here are my thoughts about power supplies and testing:
I paired 2x24V LED PSUs to get 48V of output. Not every PSU will handle it so make sure to make first some tests without AMP. I used 2 this same brand and model PSUs.
Other method of testing would be to test each channel separately. In this scenario only one channel would draw power from PSU.
Great info on these types. Better than Consumer Reports. It would be good to see you put em thru the paces on other models when you get the time. This is the kind of info that is needed on these little mini amps for desk top application (or small-ish rooms)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Consumer Reports doesn't do this kind of review.
@@drh3b seems to me yrs ago like in the late `70s on thru the `80s they would show the actual RMS for amps and what not, but like you say not any more sadly.
I use this amp in my home theater to power two of my Atmos celling speakers. Also if you want the full 300 watts a channel you have to get the 48v 10a power supply for it. While I think it's stupid that they advertise it as putting out 300 watts a channel, but don't provide the power supply that will do it, I do believe it will do it because the manufacturer provides tons of measurements for this amp showing that it will do it.
I would love to see the Aiyama opened up and modified to bridged mono then retested on the Dyno. Thanks for this video it was very informative.
Tpa3255 b is the mono version
I have a D Class amp (BRZHiFi M6) with a line level output (labeled Sub Out) that also has no variable volume. I have a subwoofer hooked up to it and have the volume on the amp fixed at a level such that the volume output to the sub is matched (to my liking) to the speaker output (in my case '70' out of a max of '80'). I then use the source volume control (in my case my laptop) to vary the volume output of the system. Sounds great at all volumes to me, although obviously a sub-optimal setup. Further on the run refinement of bass, mids and treble can be made through either the tone controls on the amplifier or graphic equalizer software.
i have this amp running 48v 7.5amp with OPA1656 opamps and elac debut 2.0 B6.2 works great, you have different caps than my model by brand and earlier models had 80v caps such as on asr forums users have shown many different main caps being used, overall a good little desktop amp IMO pairs well with my FiiO K5 pro ESS for desktop nearfield usage.
Hi, I have the stock 32v and a 24 6.25amp with the same speakers. Do you recommend me a 48v one? I listen at low volume, don't need more headroom and I'm good with the 24v at the moment but I never tried a 48v one :D
@@manuelamadio1995 i wouldnt bother with it if you listen at low volumes, ive found even with the stock psu i didnt get too high in the volume before it was annoying nearfield. one of the main reasons is the price of the power supply can quickly be close to the price of the amp. also the amp is gonna get hotter with 48v so you would need to drill holes in the top as i did so the tiny heat sink has airflow.
Got one a few years ago for my PC bookshelf speakers. It's a great little amp made better with a few mods.
I’m a 1:13 into the video. 32 volt 5 amp does not equal 600 watts. I’m going guess maybe 65 a channel. So I was off. Very impressive with the bigger power supply. Great video big D. If that line out was controlled by the volume knob I’d be ordering one right now.
I’ve been looking for true power specs of this board. Thanks Dereck !
I was going to put together 2 ICEpower 50ASX2BTL for 2x170 for a custom set of monitors I’m currently designing. My tylers are currently on some hypex amps and that’s not changing however I’m not putting that much money into this additional monitoring setup especially for the b room that doesn’t need to get that loud, rather than dynamic.
These tpa3255 with my Mean Well LRS-350-48s just sitting around can make more than enough power for what I want to use them for and this video just confirmed via the dyno.
48v at 7.3a, luckily I won’t NEED to drive to speakers but I’d rather have headroom and the power on demand. , the tpa3255 is gonna save me money time and headaches.
I’m going fully balanced with xlr inputs and getting an aluminum rack mount case made for the project. Overall it’ll be a $300-400 project, nothing vs my hypex ncore setup plus the d2x’s when I got them were like $7800
The tpa3255 can truly handle 52v before thermal issues start and it’s starts going into protect
I'm currently running this amp behind a FX AUDIO TUBE 03. Beautiful combination. I just love that sound! I did also replace those plugin ICs in both units for much faster ones as well. Great sound!! I run a pair of guitar amp 12s with tweeters.
It almost makes you wonder what kind of power you could get it you built a really solid 1500W DC power supply and ran a few of these daisy-chained. It certainly would look a bit unusual, but the setup might look cool with them all on the shelf together.
Also, I like the new extro/outtro, nice.
The big issue that these chip amps have is that they don't internally regulate the voltage.
You can basically determine output power by V=IR, where V is the power supply voltage and R is the speaker resistance...
In order to get serious power out of these chips, you have to crank up the input voltage, however, the chips are limited in what voltages they can handle, and so bridging / coupling of the amps in any way is basically useless.
Also, compared to other amps they tend to have high distortion figures. Now, it's still within reason for audibility, but if I was building a nice stereo system, I'd go with something not based on one of the chips.
1 or 2 amps per a speaker I Would want a class ab for treble and class d for the bass
@@Durkhead True, I do like active crossovers and ‘n’-amping. But I would encourage you to look into modern class d designs. Stuff like the hypex / purifi and ice power designs all have distortion performance which destroys most class a/b amps. They are also relatively inexpensive very powerful, and very power efficient.
If I ever get around to building my next stereo system, it will probably be based off a custom DSP board and ice power amp modules for everything.
@@macattack123mattc3 I just really like the way class ab amps highs sound
36V psu or a 48v psu dialed down to 44V is the sweet spot with these amps
This amplifier has a version A07 PRO where the Bluetooth aptX HD chip is built in, as well as a timbre block. The amplifier is very good for its money, but it is better not to take a complete power supply, it is frankly weak in power. I have an amplifier connected to an external 48V 12A power supply, which is quite enough. I would advise you to change the power capacitors inside the amplifier to a voltage of 100V and increase their capacity.
Hi, I buy a07pro, I have a pair of "Mission Lx2" 6ohm 100watt speakers. I hesitate between a 24v10a/36v5a/48v5a power supply.
Which one do you recommend?
@@bostongeorges937 48В 5А
@@НиктоНеизвестный THANKS
@@НиктоНеизвестный What do you think of this: "It's best to keep in mind that those
distortion specs are at their lowest at lower
voltages, say 24V, but then you're looking at less
RMSpower."
@@bostongeorges937 I think there is an inverse relationship. The higher the voltage, the greater the margin for undistorted signal. It is not necessary to use the amplifier at full power. Just with increased voltage, you will have a margin for a clean signal. And at low voltage, you will quickly hit the limit. Especially considering that your speakers are 6 ohms.
Very cool! I have this amp with a 36v 10a power supply with upgraded dual to mono opamps and it is a true gem. Thanks for the video.
You changed it to a mono block, running two amps for stereo? If so, noticeable improvements..?
This is a wildly popular amp in the audiophile community. I have one plus a few others. Got the $900 topping super clean amp on the way soon too.
I’ve had many people request the tests. I had no idea it’s been out for over a year
@@wal let it burn in for over 3 days straight. You will find that this amp will give you really clean sound with a very clean dac like the smsL do100 (not Bluetooth) or the topping d10s
people who claim to be in the audiophile community wouldn't look at this through a telescope, they have 50-90 lbs 3k amps. Us on the other hand...
@@trauma50disaster1 I'm in the audiophile community. There is no prerequisite for your gear to be over a certain amount or over a certain weight. People just want to best sound. Once in a while a unicorn comes around like this amp and some dacs. By the way you can make this amp sound even better with special op amps but they are $85 each and you need two of them
@@wal -- Almost three years!
I have the tda7498 2.1 wired at 2ohm on all channels in my work van powering a full Sundown Audio setup lol. Four 9ah 18v Waitley batteries wired in series/parallel for 40v 18ah. Sundown U 8" in a T line and 6x8 e series Sundown coaxials in the doors and the 5.25 version in the a-pillar/dash area. Run it for 8 hours a day at moderate volume. Sounds great and slams!
Got mine hooked up to a Mean Well 48V 9.5A PSU, it's great stuff!
Do you have a link to the power supply you used?
I have A04, A07 and S01 which is the woofer amp with 100W @ 4ohm and xover is at 80Hz, with miniDSP these do amazing job powering any kinds of speakers.
LOVE this video review! Great job. I bought this amplifier a while back. I used a 12v - 48v (10 amp) step up booster with lithium batteries. I tried and tried to get higher power levels out of this amp and expected it to outperform the many other digital chip amps I use. It just would not pump. My thoughts at the time 1) unimpressed with the power 2) unimpressed with the sound quality (really distorted and hallow sounding). I dug into the specs and architecture. They were using a subpar preamp chip (but, was upgradable) in the lot I bought. Weird, and was prob the culprit. So, my thinking is that the one you tested in this video had the upgraded pre-amp section (buttery smooth Class A like). Mine sounded like a Texas cow pile with flies on a hot day...even with the included 32v 5 amp adapter. I even tried a Dayton Audio 36v adapter...no change. I even tried a DC power supply, no change. I sent it back for a refund. I am GLAD yours worked...maybe I should give it another chance?
Yes, you must give it another chance. Lovely lil fellows. 👌
That is pretty awesome. I can't believe that this thing makes a complete a$$ out of the rack mount amp you tested a while back.
Great review. This amp can indeed be used with a subwoofer. Running off of the 3.5-inch connector. I have my amp running a set of Klipsch R-15M and a R-12SW. Also upgraded the OP Amps to Sparkos Labs SS3602. So far a great combination.
Lol he said for use off level of course u can put anything on lineout don't mean it Gona sound right tho
@@mobeatzleeds
Do you know a mini amp with stereo pre out that's worth buying?
@@bendermi aiyima t9 but it's down on power but with the money I've spend grands on amps from n.a.d to Yamaha and this amp is that good but I would recommend using the a07 as a power amp .....the t9 got everything on it for cheap lol don't know how they do it if you're speakers are 90db over close than your good mine are 88db so I need more so amp using a07 as Poweramp
@@mobeatzleedsDoh! Forgot he adds extras. I added a Volbox inline audio volume control to deal with the volume issue for the sub. Now I can run the bass from my chair. Ran it under my desk to keep it tidey. This is for my PC 2.1 setup. Turned the volume on the sub and the A07 to half way. Love the versatility of this little amp. Waiting on a 36v 10A power supply adapter. Should let me add some overhead. And yes it does sound great to my ears.
@@lopieslopezpm if u want it to sou d even better change opp apms in a07 cheap audio man channel if interested...good set up bro 👍
Good one!!
This pretty much sums audio up in a nutshell right here. Most of your $ for any new amp goes to the cost of its power supply. Better your power quantity & quality, better your sound.
Awesome video, just wish all the youtube review channels were like yours
I use a 48V psu turned down to 44V, the sweet spot. I drilled holes on the top and sides of the case for more ventilation too.
How many amps?
@@westsenkovec It's a 48V 7.5A power supply
@@westsenkovec If buying now, I would buy the Aiyima A08 Pro, comes with a 36V power supply. If you want to upgrade, check out Meanwell power supplies
Thanks but I'm looking for a subwoofer amp and others don't have a low pass filter.
@@westsenkovec I see, you are looking at getting the mono version, Aiyima A3001
I've got the pro version and it's absolutely brilliant 👍👌
Impressive little amplifier.
Quite like the change up from car audio, wondered about these styles of bookshelf amplifier. Thanks for sharing!
People seem to really want to see these mini amps as the views are usually good. I love testing all amps and more so it’s fun to mix things up a bit at times 😏
Out of all the audio stuff i buy, these lil bluetooth class d amps are truly the most impressive, especially the 2.1 versions. I use one for bose double cubes and american bass xr subwoofer in skar box.. truly amazing the flex i get.
lmao paid reviewer spotted
Thanks for showing that the 3.5mm output is fixed volume. I have the Fosi Audio TB10D, which doesn't have this, and I thought that I might need to get the A07 if I ever want to use a sub.
I have the A07 in the shop for the last year. Nice amp, the volume pot is a little noisy now. The TI chips have great sound. They also have socket Op amps so you can upgrade which I did. This one does not sound quite as nice as the smaller TI chip but its close.
I have a TPA3116 amp and I think the A07 with its TPA3255 actually sounds better.
Maybe swap it out for Alps RK27
Great video. This with the stock included power supply runs my emotiva b1+ more than adequately in near field 2.1. The emotiva is rated at 70w rms.
3:39 Assuming RMS voltage, the maximum power available (assuming no losses) from a 32V supply into 8Ω is 128W or 2*64W (so 65W would be impossible, unless there's up-conversion of voltage going on in the amp - which I doubt). 53W output gives an efficiency of ≈ 83%, about right for Class D amp. 4:48 That's impressive, given that the power supply is rated at 32V and 5A, i.e. 160W or 80W/channel.. 5:29 As would be expected since the power supply can only provide a maximum of 249.6/2 W/C. 12:37 388W from a 249.6 supply, interesting.
Very insightful comment and thus shows theoretical vs actual. The 250W power supply has the capability to output much more than 250W for short periods, explaining the 388W from the 250W supply. RMS does not infer “continuous” power thus allowing this amp to produce more because the power supply has an increased surge capability which fits into the duration utilized by the testing device to determine RMS power
These little amps are great, I just can't get used to the size, my old sony amp from the 90'S IS MASSIVE, weighs about 25 lb, still sounds great still going strong. I could cook an egg on top after a loud session!
Another reason you can get so many watts from this setup is the TPA3255 is set so that the Class-D modulation is -180 degrees- *60 degrees* out of phase between the two channels when in stereo BTL mode. When one speaker is getting power the other speaker is not and this is happening at a modulation frequency of around 500KHz to 600KHz, way outside the range of human hearing and way outside the power supplies switching frequency. This just allows the chip to suck a little bit more juice from any supply even though it's powering two speakers because it isn't powering both at once. The output filters in a Class-D amp are designed to make it look like a constant signal to the speakers. Win win win...
@Douglas Blake I'm sorry, it is 60 degrees. It is a Class-D chip and the interchannel delay for idle switching makes left and right channels fire 60 degrees out of phase in stereo BTL mode. Page 24 of the TPA3255 datasheet. This allows the chip to pass less current all at once by timing how it powers each internal mosfet...
That is insane, at the end! Good show Big D, make them soundwaves go!
the thing i found with these amps is prolonged use and the units cannot dissipate the heat and then the distortion comes on sooner.
I have these going to KEF q 150s and sounds great in a medium size bedroom.
I would be interested in seeing you test the linearity across the audio spectrum of the amps you test
At first glance firing the unboxing, I was reminded of the old Radio Shack line of stereos called Optimus
I like that they socketed the opamps, the 5532's are alright, but makes an easy upgrade to a 4562, 49720 etc. Sounded fine for what it is as well. Full bridge unfortunately so no good for cheapo sub duty (unless dvc)
Even if the bass comes out well, it clumps up.
Put the four internal pseudocapacitors (1uf)
Replacing it with 0.68uf improves the high notes and mid-range.
It would be cool if you could test this with a 7.5a power supply to see if you can get any more out of it. You can get Meanwell 48v, 7.5a (360w) power supplies on amazon for $23 or so, but you will have to wire the line voltage and wire them to an appropriate barrel connector to the output on your own. Messing with electricity isn't for everyone, but I imagine this is within your range of capability. Meanwell isn't a household name but they are a leading manufacturer of power supplies, LED lighting chips, and various other electronic components, so you should be able to trust their equipment won't start a fire.
*try a switching power supply, one that has adjustable voltage and amperage. Also be careful running these enclosed mini amps, they run hot and can REALLY benefit from have holes drilled into the top and a fan added or just some sort of ventilation going across it. Cant wait to see more mini amp vids*
Thanks for adding some rock to the sound check.
I picked up another denon 3800h today and I seemed to have did what I wanted in auro3D, which is 5.1.6 to 7.1.8. But who knows I have no idea what I'm doing. Just plugged the output of one to the input of the 2nd, messed around in video option to turn monitor 1/2 to activate and I got sound, I already had picture. Then I go to to the speakers plug them in and it works, also the info button shows the channels active as intended. But again I'm prob looking at something wrong. The remote works for both. I can get a 16th channel using the vog of the 2nd avr and 8 subs.
Thanks for the Test. Aiyima also has a second version of this TPA3255 amp with an internal powersupply capable of the 630w, Bluetooth receiver, USB-DAC and line-in. It's the AIYIMA A08. Would love to see a test of it, too. Would be interesting to see how much the power supply of the A08 can actually provide
Just noticed that the A08 300w x 2 model isn't available anymore and got replaced. There is a new version of it, the "A08 Upgrade A200", but it only has 200w x 2
Just received the A200 today. Sounds pretty nice, haven't put it through the ropes yet. Powering Polk R500s.
There's an A07 Pro out now but ASR forumites don't seem to like it (going by recent chatter, anyway) and consider it a downgrade. I own the A08 Pro, which I've had since September 2022 (the versions all get a bit confusing!). All of these amps are TPA3255.
@Nicegram_Me-WillistonAudioLabs Oh no, not this scamming idiot again.
Very impressive D. I like that back rub song. I watch another guy named Cheap audio man and he has these types of amps but you actually tested one. Nice!🤛
Love this review! This amp is impressive with that great power supply! I admit to being skeptical at first but seeing and hearing is believing! Great am for the price!
lmao paid reviewer spotted
Thx man, this video is exactly what I needed to pull the trigger
All in all, this little guy sounds awesome! Would be a great little bedroom, kitchen or bathroom setup. Thank you Big D for what you do! I hope the new year is being kind to you🍻
I used to be all about the fancy amplifiers, Yamaha, Kenwood, Onkyo etc.. but now for most of my setup's (not in the movie room) I just use these. They are great little amps especially for computers and gaming or somewhere you need sound. I have several by YJHIFI that I believe use the TPA3116 which is a 50W*2 + 100W sub and the sound is actually pretty damn good. They are basically the same as the Douk Audio you did a review on about a year ago. I built several Overnight Sensations MTM with 8 inch Infinity Sub for each system (me and my kids) and they put out some good tunes. Look up 'Decaf White Clouds' here on YT. They hit every note DEEP and clean.
lmao paid reviewer spotted
@@automachinehead Your intuitive powers of reasoning area seriously flawed and no, I am not nor ever have been paid for any review. I'm just a guy like Wilson that likes audio equipment. so see if you can figure out this one out: GFYS
@@jamescole6846 sure thing buddy
What a world we live in. We can hop on Amazon and buy a 1/3 RU amplifier rated at 300x2 watts, that _actually can_ do 300x2 watts, fairly affordably. If power can be conjured, that little one could trade blows with some professional amps I've used (and even beat a couple that I own). Cool find. 👍
well you can't thought...good luch getting a psu that has good reviews and not have a guy saying every third one breaks. Plus some claim 48/10 but only at 220v.
@@trauma50disaster1 48v is an increasingly common voltage for off-grid power systems. Plus, some "mild hybrid" power trains use 48v motors. Something like this could be great for tailgating.
Enjoyed the sound especially the Rock. Always a Great Job.
Impressive mini. The D9's I have yt playing through are asking "can we get that daddy" while the neighbors are saying noooo please no.
Excellent find man 👍✌️
Very neat... looks like there's also the AIYIMA A07 PRO with BT and tone controls for a few bucks more.
Thanks as always.
ASR Forums might be worth consulting first, a few don't seem to like how it performs in relation to its smaller brother.
That's a nice sounding amp I have one and swapped some burr brown op amps in it and 36 volt 10 amp power supply it's a nice unit
Awesome 👏
I love this channel! Your always showing something different. Keep it going dude.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Damn. Your amplifier dyno test takes you over the rest of the reviewers.
Oh yeah...finally a 3255! Could have tried your battery bank but wire the batteries in series or get a generic power supply but personally...running 48v on that unit is a bit close to the sun with 50v caps!
Now I will wait for a TAS5630 amp board test, running a mono version at 40v with a 2 ohm sub wired to 1 ohm and it do bump!
My problem with some of these little amps is that they don't seem to have capability to sustain output at low frequency. The adapters just aren't designed to manage such dynamic changes in current draw at a guess.
I had been looking to use the 300W versions for running buttkicker and ended up having problems with the input sensitivity of the amps I tested.
I think it's better to not use the laptop style power supplies and instead buy a proper PSU and put it in a small enclosure off desk or out of site.
sometimes its not the loudness you want the power for, you want it for cone control and for the speaker to not shit itself when trying to play bass notes or crackling mids and highs at medium to high volumes which generally happens when you run out of power.
I recently refit my custom boombox with a 2.1 amp off Amazon (DAJUNGUO TDA7498E $49.99) I bought a amazon 10A 36v switching power supply $27.99, and that little amp has some sack! The box has two 8" dynalab woofers, 2 soundstream tweets and I replaced the old mehh goldwood sub with a Recoil 8" Echo series sub another impressive product. Each driver is in about a cubic foot,Very happy BUT the D2 sub was out so I got a D4 and rolled the dice on 2 ohms.... I had to buy another amp she popped.... So Do not use 2 ohms it will not take it! in all fairness it says 4 ohm stable but I took the risk that gamble cost me $50. So even wired to 8 ohm on that amp the sub jumps! That baby recoil sub will play at high excursion for hours nonstop ! I was like its gonna pop.... nope🤯 just keeps flexin an pumpin out nice bass. I was impressed with it's performance.
Wow, that is a bad ass single chip amplifier. Very nice, and I was surprised by the 36vdc and 48vdc input. Its crazy they accept a 48v power supply. You can probably get an adjustable power supply that can do 48vdc at 15 or 20 amps, or use a charger meant to charge 48vdc battery setups for solar power storage.
I use a 1800 watt buck boost DC to DC that cost 18$ and power it with my 13.8v 55a DC power supply that way I can set it exactly at the voltage and amperage it needs and that mofo has power
You can use a sub woofer if you have a separate volume control like a DAC or pre amp.
Hey Williston...Recently came across the NEW LINE MAF Series MA AUDIO monoblock amplifiers..The MAF 1500D(1500W RMS @ 1ohm)...and The MAF 2500D(2500W rms @ 1 ohm)...could you please do a DYNO on either of these Amps?...MA AUDIO IS BACK!!
That is impressive. I enjoy your Vids keep up the good work!
It is possible to make the 3.5mm aux out variable for pre-out as the aux out just happened to sit right before the potentiometer (volume knob), just re-route it to the other side (after the potentiometer) and it will go along with the volume knob
Very good amp, i have it for a couples of years and i am very satisfied with it 😉
THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO FOR US💯💯💯 I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!!!
I suggest checking out thrift stores that usually have a large electronics section to find a power supply with the specs you need. Me, I just go to the boxes in closets and basement filled with saved, cables and power supplies - you know those boxes my wife keeps telling me I need to get rid of.
My A07 broke after 4 months and their support won't respond to me!!! I hit the support email in their manual as well as the official aiyima seller's email from amazon. I included all info required for support in their manual and included video footage of the failure. Rip for me.
can you test the [Upgraded Version]Fosi Audio TB10D 600W TPA3255.
i am trying to decide between this amp and the TB10d.
Wow that's a cool science project with a garage stereo system, You can get everything else through Sonic electronics