According to the datasheet the maximum recommended voltage is 53.5v @ 4 ohms. I think that it would be interesting to see just what it would do at that voltage with unlimited current.
@@michaelspiering7585 So do I... but my interest is tempered with 40 years of experience in electronics and one of the big lessons one learns is that one never takes a part right to or beyond it's limits without consequences. Yes the chip is rated for an absolute maximum of 53 volts, but you don't want to go there if you want it to last more than a couple of minutes.
Those Cambridge Model 12's have got to be at least 30 years old. I had a set I ended up giving to my kid. They were fun to horse around with when portable CD players were a thing.
I believe my research showed they came out around 1996. There was an earlier version called the Model 11 and even back in the '60s KLH had one with a record player. I show the history in this video - ua-cam.com/video/_OIsKjCs-D4/v-deo.html
My wife uses a much older Fosi at her desktop. And the passive subwoofer is actually a 12” TruAudio powered sub that I found with a DOA plate amp. She’s been using her Fosi 2.1 amp for years now. Never fails.
I could easily see this kinda design being popular with DIY'ers in terms of who uses passive subs. Used as a desktop setup with a pair of cheap, compact speakers and a decent DIY 8" or 10" sub, this would do quite well I think.
@@Eron55555 For DIY…several reasons….mostly simplicity. 1. Sub cabinet is lighter with the amp separate. 2. I like adjusting/fine tuning from my chair without having to go behind or under the sub. 3. Preservation of sub cabinet volume 4. Vibration, heat, and small electronic components don’t go together like peas and carrots 5. If an external amp smokes; easy to replace with whatever you like without getting out a drill and screw driver. If the plate amp smokes, you have to find a replacement with identical dimensions…or start modifying the cabinet. 6. Things may have changed, but when I started down the subwoofer rabbit hole forty years ago, class D plate amps did not have the best reputation. Yes, I know you can make a separate cabinet for the plate amplifier it’s self.
@@apparaoapparao 100 percent correct ! me i have 2 slaps audio oblivion D4 15s each in a 4cf tapped horn i made from 13 ply birch then used curly maple veneer over it . powered with a crown amp for my subs . overkill yes but i love them !!
I think the trick to using these chip amplifiers is to build your own. Any decent car head unit with RCA outs, or even just an old equalizer that takes two channel in and outputs f/r/sub.... two or three TDA7498e boards (or whatever your fav flavor), a meanwell/clone power supply and you are golden. Bonus points for recycling an old pc case to clean things up so it doesn't look like a science experiment on your desk. Or, just get two $35 600w 12v psu, and two $80 taramps 440x4 and have a very versatile setup. You could should get ~110w x2 into 8 ohm from a 440x4, enough to run most bookshelf speakers, or efficient towers. That leaves one 440x4 to do rears and sub. Would check out my local pawn shop for an old 5+ch receiver first.... if I need to power a sub that is less helpful.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground They are way, way cheaper than crown stuff... even when bought used. Especially so if you already have an appropriate power supply hanging around. Also, someone might have car audio gear collecting dust, and powering 4 ohm speakers in your house is a no-go for most home audio receivers. It doesn't make a lot of sense to buy pro audio gear to power a pair of coax 6.5's and a car audio sub for a PC. But you could do it with chip amps cheaper than you could buy a quality 2.1 Klipsch or Logitech.
This is fantastic. Power ratings are all so far off. I have an outlaw audio stereo integrated amp that rocks. Got 2 of their monoblocks for extra headroom. They were supposed to double the wattage and they ended up measuring 4 db quieter. So really less than half the power. I'd love to see a bunch of the Emotiva amps tested. Specifically the monoblocks. Keep these coming on the home stereo amps.
@@michaelspiering7585 If this case is typical of other mini-amps you will find there is less than 5mm of clearance to work with. Without cutting ugly holes in the case, you're kind of stuck.
@@michaelspiering7585 So lets see here ... First I agreed with you. Then I mentioned that it's likely to be a very tight fit for anything but the stock heatsink. Trying to help you envision the project. And you think I'm being negative? WOW ... just WOW!
Nice video Big D,I've been looking at several AIYIMA products lately, when will you be able to test their new A70 Stereo Amp?This one comes with a PFFB and is paired with a DC48V power supply, so I'd like to see how it performs in terms of power
The TPA3255 chips are amazing. In my opinion, this amp needs some adjustments to make it much better...volume control for powered sub out is a major one
@@wal TPA3255 chips are amazing only held back with the implementation or circuit. Fosi's previous 2.1 is limited by 32V power supply. Right, it is absurd no control for sub and stereo speakers at this price! thanks for the review!
I read many reviews of this amplifier and it is very positive. At this price point, it is very hard to beat or expect a lot of bells and whistles. For its price, this amplifier puts to shame some close to the 1k range.
Not sure if you could get your hands on one but I’d love to see you test a phoenix gold reactor amplifier really cool amp back in day day unique design. Love your content bro
Hyanka just came out with a cdp-1200 and cdp-1500 watt amp no one has tested yet. I received one today through a sellers program but haven't put the beans to it yet, they're on Amazon for $140 currently and claim over 1600watts at 1ohm.
I have done the same in the past, works well. Unfortunately, this amp lacks the output control of the powered sub channel so you are stuck with the settings they have configured
I would love to see you get a Bearable power supply. It be interesting to see what this amp could do if it had 48 V behind it and the power supply supply and it was capable of 10-20 amps of current.
Hey BIG D I was wondering if you could test out the t.amp e-1500 you can just plug it into any wall that’s 120-240v. I know it’s pretty expensive but I seen some people claim that it clamps up to 3000w. If your looking for amps to test I would get it. Great video btw 👍🏿
I was wondering what is the wattage output when all 3 posts are being utilized. My thought was to drive a pair tower speakers, 3x5.5" speakers:1x4" tweeter:1x8" sub per speaker. They are dual posted and my idea was to drive the speakers and tweeter with the left/right posts and the subwoofer with the sub output.
love the videos.. keep up the great work! I'm wondering, will you be reviewing the new jp 93 soon? I've ordered one, so im eagerly awaiting the amp dyno tests for it..
Solid review, as always! You queried, who uses passive subwoofers these days? Quite a few people have discovered the wonderful qualities of vintage loudspeakers' bass drivers. My library system has a Wharfedale W40 (vintage ca. 1961) with the mid-range and treble speakers disconnected and the bass speaker hooked up to a mono sub-woofer power amplifier.
Weird, shouldn't the subwoofer output be roughly - not quite - 2 times the power? Did they forget to bridge the second chip or does it need lower impedance? Maybe the chip has a setting to change modes, i read something like that on some of these smol TPA chips. But yeah, the lack of passive sub control does limit the use... or just hook up some big dummy resistor loads in series to control the output volume! And heat the room a bit :D
The internal heatsink is isolated by still standing air inside the enclosure. Because of this it can not deliver high volumes over an extended period of time. Since theres no vent holes close by either modding this thing with a fan wont help much.
I actually still prefer passive subwoofers. I just think they sound better when you have a quality amplifier, that the amp that is included with powered subwoofers. JBL in my case. Sounds pretty good too.
Nothing wrong with passive subs, I didn't intend to insinuate. However this amp has no manual control over the volume of the powered subwoofer output, so this is a problem (in my opinion)
I don’t know why, but it bothers me that the put the treble control on the left and the bass control on the right. Every amplifier or receiver I own has the bass control to the left and treble to the right 🤷♂️
should have tried the sub channel at 2ohms cause the way these TPA chips get bridged enables them to support 2ohm loads, you may want to check the datasheet to clarify that actually the TPA3255 can be configuredas 4 channel, 2 channel or 1 channel amp where in 2 channel mode it runs like a standard fullbridge amp stable down to 4ohms and when you go to 1 channel mode those already fullbridged channels get paralled up making it 2ohm stable
The power readings are not a failure ... they are what you can expect from a 32 volt power supply. There is a reason these come with 32 volt supplies. The 48 volt rating is the maximum safe voltage for the TPA3255 chips. At 48 volts, especially with two of the chips, the amp will run into a heat problem and the chips will bounce in and out of thermal protection if pushed too hard. For most of these fully enclosed TPA3255 amplifiers a 36 volt 5 or 6 amp power supply is about as far as you should push it if you expect it to last more than a week or two.
@@wal I can see where people think that. But those readings are exactly what you can expect from a TPA3255 chip with a 32 volt power supply. That isn't a failure. If you were to hook up a 48 volt 15 amp supply you would most likely get Fosi's claimed power outputs. The chip itself is capable of 300 watts per channel at 4 ohms with 10% distortion. But, to do that will require a much better cooling solution than these little mini-amps provide. It would need a cpu-like heatsink and fan. I will agree they're getting into a bunch of bad PR citing the absolute maximum chip ratings in their advertising. It would be far more honest and make a lot more sense to quote the actual power with the included supply.
Could you do a amp dyno and review on the biltema mono block? I don't think you can order from the company directly so I think you would have to contact someone who can buy one here in Sweden
I wonder how much power it would make on a 48 or 50 volt power supply? Ending answered my question I thought it would do double the power with the 48 volt I was close I think u can run those tpa chips close to 55-60 volts whatever voltage the caps are it would prolly be safe to run voltage up to what the max in the caps are if they are 65 volts u can most likely run voltage inputs up that high but the caps are prolly 50 volts so the 48 volt input max makes sense
*HAPPY FATHERS DAY TO MY HOMIES!* Always remember that it's not a Dad bod, it's a father figure! Desktop integrated amps annoy me. Give me a dedicated RCA pre-out, or 3.5mm out, *and* a volume controlled 3.5mm/single RCA sub out please! And even a 3.5mm input, would save space. 3.5mm-to-RCA, input or output, on these cheap-as-chips amps will have a negligible affect on SQ. Have a Schiit Magni+ and Douk M100. PC to Magni via 3.5mm to RCA and Magni to M100 via RCA. M100 runs 6.5" 2-way Realistic bookshelfs from the 80's mounted on the wall in front of my desk. The m100 has a a 3.5mm out ON THE FRONT and runs to my powered Dayton 8" sub-800. But hey, they both work and have been reliable.
Please try the Rockville rpa16! I haven't seen anybody give a true power specs, or video and only saying that it is powerful and that's about it, try and find something besides that.
Mr Amp man, could you try this Amp with a Mean well UHP-750-48? Its a 48v 753.6 watt 15.7 Amp switch mode power supply. Since it is a mean well power supply, I know without a doubt it will easily do ratings. If you see this message and are able to try it, please buy it from mouser electronics, so you know you are getting an official power supply. It is $193.15 bucks. The uhp series is from their industrial line of products. Without a doubt you will see fully what this Amp can do with one. Hopefully you could find a thicker power input wire to go from this power supply to the amp, highly doubt the chopped off pigtail from the stock power supply would be happy getting 15 amps thrown at it.
Привет, вопрос, к mc351 можно подключить активный сабвуфер pioneer sw-110s через высокий уровень? а колонки отдельно или мне проще купить fosi v3, подключить к нему сабвуфер, а от него колонки через высокий уровень? или сабвуфер через низкий уровень? какой вариант будет лучше?
Pretty simply, I would not recommend this amp to anyone who's not going to use the passive subwoofer outputs. Class D amplifiers do not like being run without loads.
I wonder how different this is to the BT30D Pro that I got, they list to have the exact same chipset and "power rating", but the input connector is labeled to only take power supplies up to 36V on mine and not 48V
@@Douglas_Blake_579 ah I didn't think about the caps. I guess makes sense since it's so much smaller space than the MC351 and it's sealed, and it gets hot already as it is. Glad though I upgraded to a 36v 6a power supply
@@pnwnative918 The 6 amp supply is a plus. I have several TPA3255 amps here. They all seem most comfortable at 36 volts. Lots of power but not so much heat.
Impressed it even hit 2x40w in 8 Ohm lol. Why you don't buy china crap like this 🤣 gotta love my old NAD 3020 without all the digital bs. Especially loved the "Exquisite craftsmanship" comment. Totally killed me 😂
@@rocknrolljesus3197 Yep, something like that but designed in Denmark. But the difference is that none of these class D digital soc's will ever be able to match just a decent designed classic class A/B amp design. There isn't any kind of dynamic power in any of them. Those old 2x20w NAD's beat the crap out of 6x AS big "good" amps back then because it was super good designed with a well ballanced power supply. A standard laptop adapter or switch mode psu simply can't deliver any dynamics. It's not what its designed for. hence why it didn't even reached 100w in the dynamic test from a 160w psu. I get it its a decent small size fairly cheap amp but don't expect these things to rival a decent 2'nd hand 70-80's integrated amp or reciever you can pick up many places for the same price or even cheaper because people don't want the chunky stuff from back then anymore, unless your into the the "retro" style or don't have a wife 😅 It still would be interesting to see how it did if you gave it that 48v they specify, or just fueled it with 50v and all the ampere's s it could draw to see the specs of actual max power of the SOC's used. I wasn't expecting it to reach those 2x165w when it only is delivered with an adapter half of the rated max voltage/wattage.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Ecactly. It's just toys and has nothing to do with actual "HiFi" or serious sourround sound. But it may be good enough for music in your garage or working shead 🙂
My question 600 watts for how many seconds and under which Ohm is this mono or stereo which is SO CALLED 600 Watts I give it 60 minutes at max rms 8 Ohm volume and it goes in your trash can, and you can buy an air freshener
The TPA3255 chip can do 600W and this amp has 2 of them. They would need to ship a 48VDC 25A power supply which costs more than the amp itself. There is no way that little heat sink can handle 1,200W of power.
These guys know the amps gonna get dyno'd, I just dont get it! Even if they got ballpark close in rated power, it coulda been a home run! Could have been an ULTIMATE desktop 2.1 amp if it did the damn rated power. I could see throwing a tube buffer/preamp on it and being set.
This seems like a downgrade from their own product (Fosi Audio BT20A Pro) seems better and can handle more power at 4ohms and the BT20A Pro going by his other video almost match this amp at 4ohms using 8ohms load with the 48v PSU.
Fosi can't defy ohms law. All channels driven, power output will never be higher than the power supply watt rating since class D efficiency is between 90% - 95%.
@rocknrolljesus3197 The switching power supply provided with the amp is tightly regulated, it can't sag or boost because that will increase distortion. The is no " headroom " listed in the specifications nor slew rate, I believe the reason is they do not apply to class D designs. In other words, you have to play at a lower listening level to provide some headroom while listening to music with high dynamic range.
Man this channel really fell off... not that it ever contributed much other than hypothetical entertainment... but it's funny how he has to try to bite into other channels content to stay relevant.
Don't be sooo surprised to think people still use PASSIVE subwoofers. You can't get overkill qaulity in an active home sub. Its all crap.. Unless you are figuratively speaking, willing to give an arm or a leg.
According to the datasheet the maximum recommended voltage is 53.5v @ 4 ohms. I think that it would be interesting to see just what it would do at that voltage with unlimited current.
Mostly it will explode capacitors. The bulk supply caps appear to be 50 volts.
Just because the chip can do it does not mean the amplifier can.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 perhaps one could upgrade the caps so it would last through the tests.
@@michaelspiering7585
Why bother ... things a dud.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 I just think that it's interesting.
@@michaelspiering7585
So do I... but my interest is tempered with 40 years of experience in electronics and one of the big lessons one learns is that one never takes a part right to or beyond it's limits without consequences.
Yes the chip is rated for an absolute maximum of 53 volts, but you don't want to go there if you want it to last more than a couple of minutes.
Those Cambridge Model 12's have got to be at least 30 years old. I had a set I ended up giving to my kid. They were fun to horse around with when portable CD players were a thing.
I believe my research showed they came out around 1996. There was an earlier version called the Model 11 and even back in the '60s KLH had one with a record player. I show the history in this video - ua-cam.com/video/_OIsKjCs-D4/v-deo.html
My wife uses a much older Fosi at her desktop. And the passive subwoofer is actually a 12” TruAudio powered sub that I found with a DOA plate amp.
She’s been using her Fosi 2.1 amp for years now. Never fails.
I could easily see this kinda design being popular with DIY'ers in terms of who uses passive subs. Used as a desktop setup with a pair of cheap, compact speakers and a decent DIY 8" or 10" sub, this would do quite well I think.
or expensive speakers, they do not have to be cheap speakers!!
This is Dick Rickulus' favorite amp now! "Lying to ya! Lying to ya!"
Mark me down as someone who prefers passive subwoofers.
Why?
@@Eron55555
For DIY…several reasons….mostly simplicity.
1. Sub cabinet is lighter with the amp separate.
2. I like adjusting/fine tuning from my chair without having to go behind or under the sub.
3. Preservation of sub cabinet volume
4. Vibration, heat, and small electronic components don’t go together like peas and carrots
5. If an external amp smokes; easy to replace with whatever you like without getting out a drill and screw driver.
If the plate amp smokes, you have to find a replacement with identical dimensions…or start modifying the cabinet.
6. Things may have changed, but when I started down the subwoofer rabbit hole forty years ago, class D plate amps did not have the best reputation.
Yes, I know you can make a separate cabinet for the plate amplifier it’s self.
Nothing wrong with them, but this amp has no variable control over the powered sub out, so makes it difficult to integrate properly
@@apparaoapparao 100 percent correct ! me i have 2 slaps audio oblivion D4 15s each in a 4cf tapped horn i made from 13 ply birch then used curly maple veneer over it . powered with a crown amp for my subs . overkill yes but i love them !!
@@craigengelman1369 good gravy that sounds awesome!!
I think the trick to using these chip amplifiers is to build your own. Any decent car head unit with RCA outs, or even just an old equalizer that takes two channel in and outputs f/r/sub.... two or three TDA7498e boards (or whatever your fav flavor), a meanwell/clone power supply and you are golden. Bonus points for recycling an old pc case to clean things up so it doesn't look like a science experiment on your desk.
Or, just get two $35 600w 12v psu, and two $80 taramps 440x4 and have a very versatile setup. You could should get ~110w x2 into 8 ohm from a 440x4, enough to run most bookshelf speakers, or efficient towers. That leaves one 440x4 to do rears and sub.
Would check out my local pawn shop for an old 5+ch receiver first.... if I need to power a sub that is less helpful.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground That's... what I said in the last line.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground They are way, way cheaper than crown stuff... even when bought used. Especially so if you already have an appropriate power supply hanging around.
Also, someone might have car audio gear collecting dust, and powering 4 ohm speakers in your house is a no-go for most home audio receivers. It doesn't make a lot of sense to buy pro audio gear to power a pair of coax 6.5's and a car audio sub for a PC. But you could do it with chip amps cheaper than you could buy a quality 2.1 Klipsch or Logitech.
This is fantastic. Power ratings are all so far off. I have an outlaw audio stereo integrated amp that rocks. Got 2 of their monoblocks for extra headroom. They were supposed to double the wattage and they ended up measuring 4 db quieter. So really less than half the power. I'd love to see a bunch of the Emotiva amps tested. Specifically the monoblocks. Keep these coming on the home stereo amps.
The Pre Amp signal on the 2160 is known to need additional amplification, same with the Sub Outs. Poke around on the web...
16 years - Congrats
Wow, your review was really well done! I'm so grateful that I could understand it clearly. And the sound of this product is great.
Yes! I was waiting for you to do this
I really enjoy these videos. Thumbs up👍👍
Perhaps Fosi limits the power supply to 130 watts so the thing doesn't get too hot? It looks like the cooling system is lacking.
Looking at the teardown, it appears the heat sink is fully enclosed and upside down. So, yeah, it's going to have a heat problem.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 One could adapt a computer çpu heatsink to handle at least some of the heat.
@@michaelspiering7585
If this case is typical of other mini-amps you will find there is less than 5mm of clearance to work with. Without cutting ugly holes in the case, you're kind of stuck.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 why are you so negative about what I say. It's all for the sake of experimentation.
@@michaelspiering7585
So lets see here ...
First I agreed with you.
Then I mentioned that it's likely to be a very tight fit for anything but the stock heatsink. Trying to help you envision the project.
And you think I'm being negative?
WOW ... just WOW!
It's funny how Fosi modelled this amp after the true ratings as MC351 = 3 CH / 51watts RMS @ 8 ohms
With the 32 volt supply, that is correct.
продавец написал что он не поддерживает 48v зарядку
@@RemontKvartir39
On the Fosi site they recommend 24 to 48 volt power inputs. There are no batteries, thus no charging.
Nice video Big D,I've been looking at several AIYIMA products lately, when will you be able to test their new A70 Stereo Amp?This one comes with a PFFB and is paired with a DC48V power supply, so I'd like to see how it performs in terms of power
Although I'm not in the market for such a unit, I STILL use a large passive sub(s) today.
The fact it has a digital input is rather surprising and impressive. Class D amplifiers baby.
Thanks for these kind of test. They are very informative. 😎👍👍
finally 2.1 with 48V input!! This is perfect for me but this price!😢 Fosi Audio knows what people want and charge for it.😔😔
The TPA3255 chips are amazing. In my opinion, this amp needs some adjustments to make it much better...volume control for powered sub out is a major one
@@wal TPA3255 chips are amazing only held back with the implementation or circuit. Fosi's previous 2.1 is limited by 32V power supply. Right, it is absurd no control for sub and stereo speakers at this price! thanks for the review!
@@wal
Also a setting to turn off low pass so you can use the third channel with a centre channel speaker.
I read many reviews of this amplifier and it is very positive. At this price point, it is very hard to beat or expect a lot of bells and whistles. For its price, this amplifier puts to shame some close to the 1k range.
I like it, not bad for a little shop or garage.
Not sure if you could get your hands on one but I’d love to see you test a phoenix gold reactor amplifier really cool amp back in day day unique design. Love your content bro
The hardest part would be finding one that's been recapped. I know someone personally that has one, I could always ask him 😄
@@w00tah1 right but such a bad ass concept with its plexiglass to see the inside but ur not wrong lol only 500 made I believe
Hyanka just came out with a cdp-1200 and cdp-1500 watt amp no one has tested yet.
I received one today through a sellers program but haven't put the beans to it yet, they're on Amazon for $140 currently and claim over 1600watts at 1ohm.
i use a passive sub...used a car audio sub and built the enclosure...sounds pretty good.....
I have done the same in the past, works well. Unfortunately, this amp lacks the output control of the powered sub channel so you are stuck with the settings they have configured
I would love to see you get a Bearable power supply. It be interesting to see what this amp could do if it had 48 V behind it and the power supply supply and it was capable of 10-20 amps of current.
Watch the video to the end.
Yay! I was hoping you’d do this amp.
Hey BIG D I was wondering if you could test out the t.amp e-1500 you can just plug it into any wall that’s 120-240v. I know it’s pretty expensive but I seen some people claim that it clamps up to 3000w. If your looking for amps to test I would get it. Great video btw 👍🏿
I was wondering what is the wattage output when all 3 posts are being utilized. My thought was to drive a pair tower speakers, 3x5.5" speakers:1x4" tweeter:1x8" sub per speaker. They are dual posted and my idea was to drive the speakers and tweeter with the left/right posts and the subwoofer with the sub output.
love the videos.. keep up the great work! I'm wondering, will you be reviewing the new jp 93 soon? I've ordered one, so im eagerly awaiting the amp dyno tests for it..
should not be too long, I don't have one yet
Thanks for the review. Do you have a distortion graph vs power out?
Solid review, as always! You queried, who uses passive subwoofers these days? Quite a few people have discovered the wonderful qualities of vintage loudspeakers' bass drivers. My library system has a Wharfedale W40 (vintage ca. 1961) with the mid-range and treble speakers disconnected and the bass speaker hooked up to a mono sub-woofer power amplifier.
People who have a spare car sub could use it without doing the massive 12v power setup although sound might not be optimal for open space
Cool little amp! Seems like the VU meter is only tracking the sub channel.
Weird, shouldn't the subwoofer output be roughly - not quite - 2 times the power? Did they forget to bridge the second chip or does it need lower impedance? Maybe the chip has a setting to change modes, i read something like that on some of these smol TPA chips. But yeah, the lack of passive sub control does limit the use... or just hook up some big dummy resistor loads in series to control the output volume! And heat the room a bit :D
The internal heatsink is isolated by still standing air inside the enclosure. Because of this it can not deliver high volumes over an extended period of time. Since theres no vent holes close by either modding this thing with a fan wont help much.
It's very unlikely there's room for that.
Have you tested the WiiM amp yet? Curios to know its actual output.
Why wont they make a solid 350w subwoofer amp for home?
Take a look at Dayton Audio ... they exist.
Will this amp drive the Klipsch RP-500M II (2.0 system without subwoofer) without any problems?
Another great video! Thanks
Great video as always✌️
I really wish these smaller receivers would eventually add an hdmi arc/e arc input as an option. I would pay more just for that option.
I actually still prefer passive subwoofers. I just think they sound better when you have a quality amplifier, that the amp that is included with powered subwoofers. JBL in my case. Sounds pretty good too.
Nothing wrong with passive subs, I didn't intend to insinuate. However this amp has no manual control over the volume of the powered subwoofer output, so this is a problem (in my opinion)
If Fosi could release a model with INTERNAL power supply it would be so cool. I have big bricks that lay on the floor and collect dust.
I don’t know why, but it bothers me that the put the treble control on the left and the bass control on the right. Every amplifier or receiver I own has the bass control to the left and treble to the right 🤷♂️
should have tried the sub channel at 2ohms cause the way these TPA chips get bridged enables them to support 2ohm loads, you may want to check the datasheet to clarify that
actually the TPA3255 can be configuredas 4 channel, 2 channel or 1 channel amp where in 2 channel mode it runs like a standard fullbridge amp stable down to 4ohms and when you go to 1 channel mode those already fullbridged channels get paralled up making it 2ohm stable
2ohm load??
Great video Big D
The power readings are not a failure ... they are what you can expect from a 32 volt power supply.
There is a reason these come with 32 volt supplies. The 48 volt rating is the maximum safe voltage for the TPA3255 chips. At 48 volts, especially with two of the chips, the amp will run into a heat problem and the chips will bounce in and out of thermal protection if pushed too hard.
For most of these fully enclosed TPA3255 amplifiers a 36 volt 5 or 6 amp power supply is about as far as you should push it if you expect it to last more than a week or two.
Readings not a failure, but ratings are...
@@wal
I can see where people think that.
But those readings are exactly what you can expect from a TPA3255 chip with a 32 volt power supply. That isn't a failure.
If you were to hook up a 48 volt 15 amp supply you would most likely get Fosi's claimed power outputs.
The chip itself is capable of 300 watts per channel at 4 ohms with 10% distortion. But, to do that will require a much better cooling solution than these little mini-amps provide. It would need a cpu-like heatsink and fan.
I will agree they're getting into a bunch of bad PR citing the absolute maximum chip ratings in their advertising. It would be far more honest and make a lot more sense to quote the actual power with the included supply.
Micro car amps exist too, this isn't surprising.
Fosi seems to be a very good home audio amp Derek. The sound is pretty clean there on it.
Agreed. Like the looks here too, just missing some things making it nearly a deal breaker
@wal yeah I did see on it too.
Its sad to see less and less options for actual receivers and normal integrated amps because of these things and bluetooth speakers
Could you do a amp dyno and review on the biltema mono block? I don't think you can order from the company directly so I think you would have to contact someone who can buy one here in Sweden
What do we use the BT ond USB inputs for? I'm OG and have never needed anything more than high and low inputs..wth?
Why the V3 mono photo?
Can you test the AiyimaA70? There are very few videos and I haven't made up my mind to place an order yet.
I wonder how much power it would make on a 48 or 50 volt power supply? Ending answered my question I thought it would do double the power with the 48 volt I was close I think u can run those tpa chips close to 55-60 volts whatever voltage the caps are it would prolly be safe to run voltage up to what the max in the caps are if they are 65 volts u can most likely run voltage inputs up that high but the caps are prolly 50 volts so the 48 volt input max makes sense
The chip's absolute maximum rating is 53 volts ... stick with 48 if you want it to last longer than a week.
"hold onto your butts" nobody ever smoked a cigarette like Samuel Jackson did in Jurassic Park
*HAPPY FATHERS DAY TO MY HOMIES!* Always remember that it's not a Dad bod, it's a father figure!
Desktop integrated amps annoy me. Give me a dedicated RCA pre-out, or 3.5mm out, *and* a volume controlled 3.5mm/single RCA sub out please! And even a 3.5mm input, would save space. 3.5mm-to-RCA, input or output, on these cheap-as-chips amps will have a negligible affect on SQ. Have a Schiit Magni+ and Douk M100. PC to Magni via 3.5mm to RCA and Magni to M100 via RCA. M100 runs 6.5" 2-way Realistic bookshelfs from the 80's mounted on the wall in front of my desk. The m100 has a a 3.5mm out ON THE FRONT and runs to my powered Dayton 8" sub-800.
But hey, they both work and have been reliable.
Please try the Rockville rpa16! I haven't seen anybody give a true power specs, or video and only saying that it is powerful and that's about it, try and find something besides that.
Mr Amp man, could you try this Amp with a Mean well UHP-750-48? Its a 48v 753.6 watt 15.7 Amp switch mode power supply. Since it is a mean well power supply, I know without a doubt it will easily do ratings. If you see this message and are able to try it, please buy it from mouser electronics, so you know you are getting an official power supply. It is $193.15 bucks. The uhp series is from their industrial line of products. Without a doubt you will see fully what this Amp can do with one. Hopefully you could find a thicker power input wire to go from this power supply to the amp, highly doubt the chopped off pigtail from the stock power supply would be happy getting 15 amps thrown at it.
They actually do sell bigger power supplies for these. So you can actually reach nearer to rated power.
Danke! Thanks! ❤
Thanks.
No sub level control is a deal breaker for me.
193 RMS is pretty dam powerful for tpa chips amps at 4 ohm I didn't see u try 2 ohm on stereo or sub channel
Привет, вопрос, к mc351 можно подключить активный сабвуфер pioneer sw-110s через высокий уровень? а колонки отдельно
или мне проще купить fosi v3, подключить к нему сабвуфер, а от него колонки через высокий уровень? или сабвуфер через низкий уровень?
какой вариант будет лучше?
Pretty simply, I would not recommend this amp to anyone who's not going to use the passive subwoofer outputs. Class D amplifiers do not like being run without loads.
Car subs are much cheaper than home audio subs !
apparently it has enough power in stereo if it can push those woofers on the ELAC speakers the way you did.. the amp can't be that anemic😂
I wonder how different this is to the BT30D Pro that I got, they list to have the exact same chipset and "power rating", but the input connector is labeled to only take power supplies up to 36V on mine and not 48V
Probably because they used lower rated capacitors. Put 48 volts on a 36v capacitor and things get real interesting....
@@Douglas_Blake_579 ah I didn't think about the caps. I guess makes sense since it's so much smaller space than the MC351 and it's sealed, and it gets hot already as it is. Glad though I upgraded to a 36v 6a power supply
@@pnwnative918
The 6 amp supply is a plus.
I have several TPA3255 amps here. They all seem most comfortable at 36 volts. Lots of power but not so much heat.
Impressed it even hit 2x40w in 8 Ohm lol. Why you don't buy china crap like this 🤣 gotta love my old NAD 3020 without all the digital bs. Especially loved the "Exquisite craftsmanship" comment. Totally killed me 😂
Your NAD was made in Taiwan right? 😂
@@rocknrolljesus3197 Yep, something like that but designed in Denmark. But the difference is that none of these class D digital soc's will ever be able to match just a decent designed classic class A/B amp design. There isn't any kind of dynamic power in any of them. Those old 2x20w NAD's beat the crap out of 6x AS big "good" amps back then because it was super good designed with a well ballanced power supply. A standard laptop adapter or switch mode psu simply can't deliver any dynamics. It's not what its designed for. hence why it didn't even reached 100w in the dynamic test from a 160w psu. I get it its a decent small size fairly cheap amp but don't expect these things to rival a decent 2'nd hand 70-80's integrated amp or reciever you can pick up many places for the same price or even cheaper because people don't want the chunky stuff from back then anymore, unless your into the the "retro" style or don't have a wife 😅 It still would be interesting to see how it did if you gave it that 48v they specify, or just fueled it with 50v and all the ampere's s it could draw to see the specs of actual max power of the SOC's used. I wasn't expecting it to reach those 2x165w when it only is delivered with an adapter half of the rated max voltage/wattage.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Ecactly. It's just toys and has nothing to do with actual "HiFi" or serious sourround sound. But it may be good enough for music in your garage or working shead 🙂
@@mrdali67 I see you're confused about a lot.
Please test the wuzhi audio mini amps
My question 600 watts for how many seconds and under which Ohm is this mono or stereo which is SO CALLED 600 Watts
I give it 60 minutes at max rms 8 Ohm volume and it goes in your trash can, and you can buy an air freshener
Run a 2ohm load test bet you hit rated power then boss
The TPA3255 chip can do 600W and this amp has 2 of them. They would need to ship a 48VDC 25A power supply which costs more than the amp itself. There is no way that little heat sink can handle 1,200W of power.
Sucks they mislabeled the ratings
These guys know the amps gonna get dyno'd, I just dont get it! Even if they got ballpark close in rated power, it coulda been a home run! Could have been an ULTIMATE desktop 2.1 amp if it did the damn rated power. I could see throwing a tube buffer/preamp on it and being set.
Aiyima B07 testing please!
they must be using the "new math"...
Ha! I'm guessing ratings are provided by the chips potential output
To be fair the Amazon listing shows the power ratings as “max” not RMS.
The majority of powered subwoofers I've seen come with their own volume knob anyways, so that isn't that big of a con
I was referring to volume adjustment for the powered sub output
why didn't you test it at 48v?
Why didn’t you watch until the end? Because I did test at 48V 👈😁
UV meter looks like it has a heavy needle.
Can’t believe how tiny those chips are . 120w through them seems crazy.. That vu meter seems pointless though.
who in the world uses a passive subwoofer?
Check amp magnum ma 3000.1 plis mean... like videos
This seems like a downgrade from their own product (Fosi Audio BT20A Pro) seems better and can handle more power at 4ohms and the BT20A Pro going by his other video almost match this amp at 4ohms using 8ohms load with the 48v PSU.
Dajunguo s350 is kinda just a better version of this amp
Actually I was thinking I hope he doesn't use a dumb iPhone to play the music... (generic sound quality)
Please atleast use your old car radio deck.
I don't understand. 32 volts at 5 amps equals 160 watts, no matter how you measure it. Tell me how I'm wrong, please.
check around 8 minutes in this video for the explanation ua-cam.com/video/c7QELbpKMuI/v-deo.html
am i missing something here? $190 seems hella cheap!?
Fosi can't defy ohms law. All channels driven, power output will never be higher than the power supply watt rating since class D efficiency is between 90% - 95%.
Pep can exceed wattage input. It's not uncommon. It just can't do it continually.
@rocknrolljesus3197 The switching power supply provided with the amp is tightly regulated, it can't sag or boost because that will increase distortion. The is no " headroom " listed in the specifications nor slew rate, I believe the reason is they do not apply to class D designs. In other words, you have to play at a lower listening level to provide some headroom while listening to music with high dynamic range.
@@carlosroig5315 you were speaking solely of this fosi model initially.... Cool.
👍
need a 53v power supply.
Nope, For that chip 48 is about as far as you can push it in day to day use ... 53 volts is the death voltage for the TPA3255.
к недостаткам еще можно отнести несменные операционные усилители
420w isn't 600w though
Big dummy math sort of killed the story before it even happened!
So it's 42 watts @ 8 ohms, hardly earth shaking. Amazon don't give a hoot about false advertising with the stuff they host 😂
Hello
Damn
Man this channel really fell off... not that it ever contributed much other than hypothetical entertainment... but it's funny how he has to try to bite into other channels content to stay relevant.
Don't be sooo surprised to think people still use PASSIVE subwoofers. You can't get overkill qaulity in an active home sub. Its all crap..
Unless you are figuratively speaking, willing to give an arm or a leg.
psu is 160w lol