Appreciate you brother. Your content had been super insightful and helpful. Just got tuned last week and I still have a few questions if you may help with? For example is seeing knock numbers under normal driving normal or not? What is a safe charge air temp to do hard pulls? Thank you. Keep the great content coming.
From my experience negative ignition timing is part of the game just driving around in traffic stop and go. The negative ignition timing -1 up to even -4 just the car doing what it does to adjust ever few milli-seconds and keep things happy. Ideally when you first lay into the pedal you will see a dip in ignition timing but you soon want to see it start climbing into the positive number I've seen +4 here and there in hot and humid Texas. Mostly +2 and +3. Knock retard is something you want to play close attention to, front and center. I set mine to blink whole screen Red if and when it dips below. -.50. Just something you want to keep an eye on. If you see it dipping in to the negative numbers -2, -3, -4 and stay there do not push the car more and stop turning high rpms. Likely an issue. Could be bad gas or the fuel station has 87 octane instead of 93 in your tank. Warm humid days are more prone to create engine knock as the turbos work harder and harder ingesting warmer air, then compress it and push it into cylinders. With a decent upgraded heat exchanger. There are plenty out now, in the hot summer on 95, 98, 100 degree day the temp of the concrete can be 130-140, I've seen 115-120 IAT, (Intake air temp) slow speed traffic on hwy. In these times I will see CAT, (charged air temps) 122-135. Best in hot summers don't really race back to back to back. The goal is to drive at speeds and keep airflowing across Hx 50-60 mph. A lot of slow speed driving meand less air fliwing across the hx. That helps keep temps in 112- 115 range. Even 85 degrees days is likely to hurt performance compared to a 60-70 degree day. More power, more throttle response, feels snappier on the 40 degree to 50 degree day but traction is deceased too. My car with the average hx upgrade on 80-90 degree days see about 12-15 degree difference between hx coolant temp and CAT, charged air temp between racing/ driving. When you push the car from 0-60 or 30-120mph CAT doesn't really rise that much, Maybe 6-10-12 degrees because lots of air flowing through hx. I would say 125-130 degrees is getting somewhat warm for CAT. I have my CAT set to blink Red when it's temp climbs over like 125 degrees. If you got tuned by a tuner, I high recommend taking logs whenever possible and put you data up on the internet site "datazap". There you logs are placed into a graph. Takes time and effort to do this and unseestand and kniwhow/what looking at, but super cool. If you just don't have the interest to do that then be in close contact with your tuner and send him logs to keep tabs on your tune/car. Reason why tuning cost so much because you have to rely on them for a few months. Plus just good idea to capture logs and have the tuner look at random times to catch anything odd. Once the tune is nailed down for what you do and your weather/climate then a lot less logging the parameters you tuner tell you to log.
In the app for the dash board there's a selection for choosing your own background. I found out the size of my phone screen resolution, Don't know if that matter. and I created a carbon fiber looking background. I looked up how to do it on youtube using photoshop.
if i want to set a number, for example if i want to set 150-180 degrees for my oil temp and have the gauge be green to let me know im in the right temp, how do i do that and how do i make it so once oil temp goes over lets say 200 it turns red color to let me know its over
I sold my car that was using this app for plus it's been updated and update and revised many time since I made these videos. Anyways, from what I can remember there's plenty of additional screen to tab into when setting of each gauge. You do it from the main setup gauge view,,, set seen temp limits, set up blinking/warning, and set alarms plus add different colors. I really wish it would have come with a detailed manual or a dedicated company video/s to access step by step access. I cant even connect to my ecutek main screen anylonger without BT dongle mounted in the car with the ecutek tune.
Hi GTL, I have an Ecutek tune but the Quick Flash from AMS. So I installed my tune but how do you see the dashboard. I’m I supposed to drive around with the device plugged into the car. Can you give me step-by-step instructions of getting the dashboard up and running after the car is been tuned?
Plug in/insert the ecutek blue tooth dongle into the OBD port reader and leave it there. Download the ecutek phone app and pick Q50-60 VR30 I believe. It's been awhile. Your new app should recognize your car. All this should have been done to install the ecutek tune.
Once you have app connected then you go into app and selectt my car.and setup up the parameters you want to see live. Also got to pick engin/car parameters you want to datalog If you have an AMS tune, they should have talked you through all this and have you already datalogging the car with their specified engine parameters selected.
If you have a blue tooth dongle and your phone app which syncs to it then you have logging features and a customizable section to see specific motor parameters. If you just bought a OTF basic one a done tune from. AMS then you likely won't have all the benefits that folks whi pay the full 1,600 or what ever ams now charges.
This is what has me shaking my head with my tuner. I don't have an answer for what I am seeing. When I first got my car tuned I didn't buy the Ecutek BT module for hooking that up to your phone so I wasn't monitoring. A month later I got one. In that time I went from their holy Grail map 433whp and 513 torque to a revised 410whp and 475 torque. Long story short I started datalogging and monitoring the things I do and I was seeing things that raised my eyebrows. For the last 2.5 months my car, once it's warmed up, while driving normal, easy day to day driving like a normal adult, it sees -1.2 to -2.7 timing being pulled depending on traffic, lights and hills. When I apply the throttle more like 15 to 20% the negative timing quickly drops to 0 and then if cars starts building boost it jump up to timing being added. Full throttle +1, +2, +3, +4. My 2014 Ford Focus ST struggled when I had it tuned to not see knock)have timing pulled. It drive me nuts chasing false knock. I always fill up with 93 octane fuel but what comes to my mind now is winter and summer gas. I think our gas here gets real shitty with the winter version. Solution would be for me to go up the street and buy $85.00 Sunoco 5gal race gas. Until I figure this out...it's always in my mind. Likely to get worse as the heat increases outside. I've got the Burger Motorsports heat exchanger and it's datalog numbers are good.
Getting thru Life okay, I just got my car tuned with Ecutek did I first flash over today. I was looking at my timing when I’m at idle it’s about 7-9. Then when I get on it it starts to go up to about 40 when I let off it starts to go back down . I don’t have any knock that’s stayed at 0 so I guess that’s a good sign. I also have a BMS heat exchanger running 91 as I’m in California. So I’m waiting to get my revision in a couple of days to see what he says about the car
@@AtoMiCxMODs ignition timing numbers should only be reading like -5, -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Send me one of your datalogs in email. I'll put it into datazap and see what it says. Do you remember the outside temp during the time of the run? Send me your best 0 to 100 mph or 20-30 to 100 mph run. Needs/best to be full throttle during that time. I can share it with you too and you can look at it and start to how datazap works.
Appreciate you brother. Your content had been super insightful and helpful. Just got tuned last week and I still have a few questions if you may help with? For example is seeing knock numbers under normal driving normal or not? What is a safe charge air temp to do hard pulls? Thank you. Keep the great content coming.
From my experience negative ignition timing is part of the game just driving around in traffic stop and go. The negative ignition timing -1 up to even -4 just the car doing what it does to adjust ever few milli-seconds and keep things happy.
Ideally when you first lay into the pedal you will see a dip in ignition timing but you soon want to see it start climbing into the positive number I've seen +4 here and there in hot and humid Texas. Mostly +2 and +3.
Knock retard is something you want to play close attention to, front and center. I set mine to blink whole screen Red if and when it dips below. -.50. Just something you want to keep an eye on. If you see it dipping in to the negative numbers -2, -3, -4 and stay there do not push the car more and stop turning high rpms. Likely an issue. Could be bad gas or the fuel station has 87 octane instead of 93 in your tank.
Warm humid days are more prone to create engine knock as the turbos work harder and harder ingesting warmer air, then compress it and push it into cylinders.
With a decent upgraded heat exchanger. There are plenty out now, in the hot summer on 95, 98, 100 degree day the temp of the concrete can be 130-140, I've seen 115-120 IAT, (Intake air temp) slow speed traffic on hwy. In these times I will see CAT, (charged air temps) 122-135. Best in hot summers don't really race back to back to back. The goal is to drive at speeds and keep airflowing across Hx 50-60 mph. A lot of slow speed driving meand less air fliwing across the hx. That helps keep temps in 112- 115 range.
Even 85 degrees days is likely to hurt performance compared to a 60-70 degree day. More power, more throttle response, feels snappier on the 40 degree to 50 degree day but traction is deceased too. My car with the average hx upgrade on 80-90 degree days see about 12-15 degree difference between hx coolant temp and CAT, charged air temp between racing/ driving. When you push the car from 0-60 or 30-120mph CAT doesn't really rise that much, Maybe 6-10-12 degrees because lots of air flowing through hx.
I would say 125-130 degrees is getting somewhat warm for CAT. I have my CAT set to blink Red when it's temp climbs over like 125 degrees.
If you got tuned by a tuner, I high recommend taking logs whenever possible and put you data up on the internet site "datazap". There you logs are placed into a graph. Takes time and effort to do this and unseestand and kniwhow/what looking at, but super cool. If you just don't have the interest to do that then be in close contact with your tuner and send him logs to keep tabs on your tune/car. Reason why tuning cost so much because you have to rely on them for a few months. Plus just good idea to capture logs and have the tuner look at random times to catch anything odd. Once the tune is nailed down for what you do and your weather/climate then a lot less logging the parameters you tuner tell you to log.
Videos to watch Datazap Desktop computer tool:
ua-cam.com/video/tguvrePSzXU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ldwo39Mozq8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/vR6dTy1Lhac/v-deo.html
How did you change the background color to black?
In the app for the dash board there's a selection for choosing your own background. I found out the size of my phone screen resolution, Don't know if that matter. and I created a carbon fiber looking background. I looked up how to do it on youtube using photoshop.
@@GettingthruLife thank you for the super fast response
@@joshadolphsen4767 I always try and respond, if I'm near my computer I get a sound notification and easy to answer.
if i want to set a number, for example if i want to set 150-180 degrees for my oil temp and have the gauge be green to let me know im in the right temp, how do i do that and how do i make it so once oil temp goes over lets say 200 it turns red color to let me know its over
I sold my car that was using this app for plus it's been updated and update and revised many time since I made these videos. Anyways, from what I can remember there's plenty of additional screen to tab into when setting of each gauge. You do it from the main setup gauge view,,, set seen temp limits, set up blinking/warning, and set alarms plus add different colors. I really wish it would have come with a detailed manual or a dedicated company video/s to access step by step access. I cant even connect to my ecutek main screen anylonger without BT dongle mounted in the car with the ecutek tune.
@ ok thank you, do you know if there is a gauge that shows the g force? Bcuz im tryna see and cant find it but in the demo vehicle theres g force
Hi GTL,
I have an Ecutek tune but the Quick Flash from AMS.
So I installed my tune but how do you see the dashboard.
I’m I supposed to drive around with the device plugged into the car.
Can you give me step-by-step instructions of getting the dashboard up and running after the car is been tuned?
Plug in/insert the ecutek blue tooth dongle into the OBD port reader and leave it there. Download the ecutek phone app and pick Q50-60 VR30 I believe. It's been awhile. Your new app should recognize your car.
All this should have been done to install the ecutek tune.
Once you have app connected then you go into app and selectt my car.and setup up the parameters you want to see live. Also got to pick engin/car parameters you want to datalog
If you have an AMS tune, they should have talked you through all this and have you already datalogging the car with their specified engine parameters selected.
@@GettingthruLife
I sent them an email I just have to find out if my tune which is equivalent to the JB4 has dashboard features available
If you have a blue tooth dongle and your phone app which syncs to it then you have logging features and a customizable section to see specific motor parameters. If you just bought a OTF basic one a done tune from. AMS then you likely won't have all the benefits that folks whi pay the full 1,600 or what ever ams now charges.
@@GettingthruLife I don’t have the dongle
What numbers do you hit for your ignition timing while driving??
This is what has me shaking my head with my tuner. I don't have an answer for what I am seeing. When I first got my car tuned I didn't buy the Ecutek BT module for hooking that up to your phone so I wasn't monitoring. A month later I got one. In that time I went from their holy Grail map 433whp and 513 torque to a revised 410whp and 475 torque.
Long story short I started datalogging and monitoring the things I do and I was seeing things that raised my eyebrows.
For the last 2.5 months my car, once it's warmed up, while driving normal, easy day to day driving like a normal adult, it sees -1.2 to -2.7 timing being pulled depending on traffic, lights and hills. When I apply the throttle more like 15 to 20% the negative timing quickly drops to 0 and then if cars starts building boost it jump up to timing being added. Full throttle +1, +2, +3, +4.
My 2014 Ford Focus ST struggled when I had it tuned to not see knock)have timing pulled. It drive me nuts chasing false knock.
I always fill up with 93 octane fuel but what comes to my mind now is winter and summer gas. I think our gas here gets real shitty with the winter version. Solution would be for me to go up the street and buy $85.00 Sunoco 5gal race gas.
Until I figure this out...it's always in my mind. Likely to get worse as the heat increases outside. I've got the Burger Motorsports heat exchanger and it's datalog numbers are good.
Getting thru Life okay, I just got my car tuned with Ecutek did I first flash over today. I was looking at my timing when I’m at idle it’s about 7-9. Then when I get on it it starts to go up to about 40 when I let off it starts to go back down . I don’t have any knock that’s stayed at 0 so I guess that’s a good sign. I also have a BMS heat exchanger running 91 as I’m in California. So I’m waiting to get my revision in a couple of days to see what he says about the car
@@AtoMiCxMODs ignition timing numbers should only be reading like -5, -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Send me one of your datalogs in email. I'll put it into datazap and see what it says. Do you remember the outside temp during the time of the run? Send me your best 0 to 100 mph or 20-30 to 100 mph run. Needs/best to be full throttle during that time. I can share it with you too and you can look at it and start to how datazap works.
@@AtoMiCxMODs my email bthornhill2606@yahoo.com
Getting thru Life where would you like me to send it to?