Just got done with injecting my deck and I’d like to thank you for the inspiration. For Aquasport owners, this method works really well because our decks are built with 3/8 balsa core. They are not plywood. When balsa gets wet and rots it basically dissolves, leaving almost nothing behind. It’s a blessing in disguise because these decks are so easy to save. The epoxy really fills the deck well. I was surprised how much I used.
How do I know how deep it is after the whole in the ply wood and how much do I need to use I am in this step on my bait at the moment I need some help :)
I have a soft soft of about 3ft on one side of my boat. My question is, when drilling holes, is the idea drilling the fiberglass only and stopping on the rotted wood? Or drilling thru the wood? TIA
The ideally you want to drill thru the top layer of glass and drill thru the wood core stopping just before the bottom layer of glass. You may find open voids where the core has completely rotted away. DO NOT drill thru the bottom layer of fiberglass. You'll have to carefully make several test drill holes. Use a drill stop to accurately control your drill hole depth.
thanks, I am researching the best route to go, 1992 23ft. proline walk around has a few soft spots where people have abused the deck, and water getting in.
James Wright the key is beding all the screws etc properly so water can't get in to begin with. The screws holding my console were loose and allowing water intrusion. If the core is still wet you have to let it dry. I drilled the holes and let it sit inside for several weeks before injecting. So far it is still solid.
@@wingtimeRV7 how deep did you mark tge drill and if it's impervious to water, where does tge water go to. Cause my goal is to fill epoxy and remove all tge water
@@jackrabbit5047 First off epoxy will cure under water since it is a catalyzed reaction. Second it is best to try to dry out the core as much as possible. Injecting a soaking wet core will not last. My deck had time for the core to dry out long before I injected it. First I rebeded all the loose screws that were allowing the water intrusion that caused the rot in the first place. Then after using the boat a few months it sat undercover for a few more months during the winter. The soft spots had gotten even softer because the remains of the wood had dried and turned to dust. Then I drilled the holes in the deck and allowed it to sit inside for a week or two two to air out more.
@@wingtimeRV7 How long does it take to dry the core after you drill the series of holes? I have a small area of delaminated core on my side deck and would rather not have to peel the fiberglass off. Also, I live up in Canada - do you think it would dry over one winter (in dry, though cold covered storage)?
@@jackrabbit5047 you have to see how the core shavings look when you drill the holes. You also need a stop on the drill to prevent you from drilling all the way thru. Not sure how well it will dry below freezing. I have heard of using a small heater or spotlights to heat the deck and speed up the drying process.
You really are much better off removing the core replacing with closed cell foam and re laminating as the expense and additional weight of filling with epoxy is nonsensical furthermore it might sound ok but it's not structurally sound
The weight of a few gallons of epoxy composite is negligible and considerably cheaper than redecking the boat. Done properly it is very much structural. Is it a permanent fix? Nope but considering not has been holding up fine for five years it was worth it in this application.
The actual space or void was under 3/4" maybe 5/8". Also since the deck has a fuel tank cover and a rigging trough, and only a portion of it was soft. I think I used like 2 1/2 epoxy kits. Which are 1.5 gallons.
Just got done with injecting my deck and I’d like to thank you for the inspiration. For Aquasport owners, this method works really well because our decks are built with 3/8 balsa core. They are not plywood. When balsa gets wet and rots it basically dissolves, leaving almost nothing behind. It’s a blessing in disguise because these decks are so easy to save. The epoxy really fills the deck well. I was surprised how much I used.
what is the difference with plywood decks?
Cool video
Using a piece of peg board is always a great way layout hole marks.
I got a boat with the same problem .. How much epoxy di it take get yours done?
How do I know how deep it is after the whole in the ply wood and how much do I need to use I am in this step on my bait at the moment I need some help :)
What materials did you inject thanx
Epoxy with milled fibers and cabosil.
Thank you real good video
I have a soft soft of about 3ft on one side of my boat. My question is, when drilling holes, is the idea drilling the fiberglass only and stopping on the rotted wood? Or drilling thru the wood? TIA
The ideally you want to drill thru the top layer of glass and drill thru the wood core stopping just before the bottom layer of glass. You may find open voids where the core has completely rotted away. DO NOT drill thru the bottom layer of fiberglass. You'll have to carefully make several test drill holes. Use a drill stop to accurately control your drill hole depth.
show the products you use please i got the same problem thankx
I used epoxy from Fiberglass coatings in St Petersburg FL. I believe they now have a thinner epoxy made just for injecting rotted wood.
@@wingtimeRV7 thankx you
where did you get that tool and how much was it?
Will it work with balsa cored boats
John Williams I'm sure it would. When balsa rots it turns to dust. The best this is if you can drill the deck and then let it dry as long as possible.
good works! my deck has some soft spots, does this foam hold moisture and such?
James Wright it's not foam it's epoxy thickened with cabosil and milled fiberglass fibers, so it is impervious to water
thanks, I am researching the best route to go, 1992 23ft. proline walk around has a few soft spots where people have abused the deck, and water getting in.
James Wright the key is beding all the screws etc properly so water can't get in to begin with. The screws holding my console were loose and allowing water intrusion. If the core is still wet you have to let it dry. I drilled the holes and let it sit inside for several weeks before injecting. So far it is still solid.
@@wingtimeRV7 how deep did you mark tge drill and if it's impervious to water, where does tge water go to. Cause my goal is to fill epoxy and remove all tge water
@@wingtimeRV7 can you link me tge brand, parts and ratio to do this right. Thank you
How many gallons did it take to do that entire deck at (assuming) 3/4"?
I forget. I know I bought at least two kits. So three or so gallons.
What size Drill bit?
I honestly don't recall. Probably around a 1/4"or so. I remember picking it based on what the tip of the fit into best.
You filled all those holes with 5200?
Umm no. Watch the other videos. I injected it with epoxy thickened with fumed silica and milled fibers.
@@wingtimeRV7 But if the core is damp how can the epoxy cure?
@@jackrabbit5047 First off epoxy will cure under water since it is a catalyzed reaction. Second it is best to try to dry out the core as much as possible. Injecting a soaking wet core will not last. My deck had time for the core to dry out long before I injected it. First I rebeded all the loose screws that were allowing the water intrusion that caused the rot in the first place. Then after using the boat a few months it sat undercover for a few more months during the winter. The soft spots had gotten even softer because the remains of the wood had dried and turned to dust. Then I drilled the holes in the deck and allowed it to sit inside for a week or two two to air out more.
@@wingtimeRV7 How long does it take to dry the core after you drill the series of holes? I have a small area of delaminated core on my side deck and would rather not have to peel the fiberglass off. Also, I live up in Canada - do you think it would dry over one winter (in dry, though cold covered storage)?
@@jackrabbit5047 you have to see how the core shavings look when you drill the holes. You also need a stop on the drill to prevent you from drilling all the way thru. Not sure how well it will dry below freezing. I have heard of using a small heater or spotlights to heat the deck and speed up the drying process.
You really are much better off removing the core replacing with closed cell foam and re laminating as the expense and additional weight of filling with epoxy is nonsensical furthermore it might sound ok but it's not structurally sound
The weight of a few gallons of epoxy composite is negligible and considerably cheaper than redecking the boat. Done properly it is very much structural. Is it a permanent fix? Nope but considering not has been holding up fine for five years it was worth it in this application.
You’re the first guy to even realize this is WRONG. GOOD JOB
Anyone use injectadeck to this and how is it holding up? #DrillAndFill
The actual space or void was under 3/4" maybe 5/8". Also since the deck has a fuel tank cover and a rigging trough, and only a portion of it was soft. I think I used like 2 1/2 epoxy kits. Which are 1.5 gallons.
But the dealer told me that this fiberglass boats where rot proof and I could store them outside with no cover and it would last a lifetime
I assume that's sarcasm.... and he sounds like a good salesman.
Of course , if it’s a “no wood no rot” boat. There’s a bunch of boats still made with wood over fiberglass.
How did this hold up. I have some water in a foam deck. Does not seam sponge. What would you suggest. Thank you
Still rock solid. First thing you have to get the water out and let it dry a much as possible. If it is foam core. I'd try inject a deck.