really good idea, I honestly have no idea what I am doing when I am wrenching on stuff. I just put a new BB and had to reinstall the crank. thanks mate!
Nice video. This wasn't a problem in the past as long as bottom bracket and spacers installed properly. I encountered this recently with my newly built mtb. Bought some 1x chinese brand cranks, shimano like spindle with sram direct mount chainring, installed on 73mm bb shell with shimano bb52. After installation, drive side crank arm was outboard by 5mm than non drive side. I switch the included 2.5mm spacer from drive side to the non drive side bb and the crank arms are at equal distance relative to the center of seat tube. The next problem I faced was the chain ring touches the chainstays, and chainline was almost at 45mm, my solution, bought a 3mm offset chainring and chainline is now at 47mm. It was both perfect, biomechanically and chainline.
Good clear instruction!
Next video: How to remove disc brakes from your road bike to make it lighter and more aero ;)
really good idea, I honestly have no idea what I am doing when I am wrenching on stuff. I just put a new BB and had to reinstall the crank. thanks mate!
Nice video. This wasn't a problem in the past as long as bottom bracket and spacers installed properly. I encountered this recently with my newly built mtb. Bought some 1x chinese brand cranks, shimano like spindle with sram direct mount chainring, installed on 73mm bb shell with shimano bb52. After installation, drive side crank arm was outboard by 5mm than non drive side. I switch the included 2.5mm spacer from drive side to the non drive side bb and the crank arms are at equal distance relative to the center of seat tube. The next problem I faced was the chain ring touches the chainstays, and chainline was almost at 45mm, my solution, bought a 3mm offset chainring and chainline is now at 47mm. It was both perfect, biomechanically and chainline.