Thank you for this video, some would think that my prep work for the 2.5 ft wall I'll build in my backyard is overkill but if there's one thing we're known for in Florida it's rain and gators so I rather go overkill adding the drainage piping, the protective layer, the geogrid, anything and everything possible to avoid having my retaining wall shift later on
Do you worry about the freeze depth? In Wisconsin we have a 4 to 6 foot freezing depth and our house is having tons of problems with our retaining walls and we have unfortunately a lot.
How does one ensure that the top of that geotextile fabric that's near the cap, stays in place? Do you attach it somehow? Can you place it underneath (~1/2" or so) the cap before you glue/mortar the cap into place?
In my professional opinion, it should be anchored into the soil. If your wall is 6' tall, the geo-grid should be 6'-7' in length from face of wall. All of the engineered plans that I have worked with for the past 25 years calls for 12" of crushed stone behind the blocks/wall. You would need to have excavated enough soil to accommodate the proper length of geo-grid for your wall. My preference is to back fill and compact in 4" lifts with clean soil, meaning no rocks larger than 3-4". Some engineers call for first layer of geo-grid over 1st course sometimes 2nd, but never 3rd.
One thing that makes me itch is that small foundation block and how shallow it is regarding the bottom of the slope. I live in a place where the freezing depth is 1ft/ 30cm and the top of the foundation has to be at least 2ft/60cm below grade. And those type of walls with concrete blocks are suitable only for parapet walls or walls that aren’t structural. But funnily enough make grade adjustments without walls. Or building dry stone walls or/and gravity walls, gabions are acceptable. But as you said drainage is the king.
Do you need a drainage system even if the ground is flat and level? Also, will holes cut out at the base of the wall or put in place during construction work?
Describe that drainage pipe for me please. I have engineered plans, they are a little hard to follow. After getting very high quotes, I’m thinking of constructing the 48 inch by 130 long retaining wall myself. Are there holes in the drainage pipe? What material is the drainage pipe? Thanks
Properly engineered (and built) poured retaining walls are the strongest. Depending on the application and location, you may need to veneer the face of the poured wall for aesthetic reasons and that will increase the cost of the project. Segmental Retaining Walls (as discussed in this video) are easier to install and have a finished look upon completion.
@@CreeksideOutdoorLiving iv built a house close to neighbours house, theres about a 200mm gap between my house wall and my neighbours drive. All detatched houses. His drive is 1 metre higher because we live on a slope. His drive is concrete. Can i not fill that gap with concrete as a permenant solution?
City codes in CA would not allow this, you would need a "L" shape footing where the L extends the opposite side of the sloped grade min 12" by 3' long. You would need double rebar for 8" block running from the footing up through the entire height of the wall, plus all the rock, drainage and weep holes.🤔
This is a Segmental Retaining Wall. The footing for these are of crushed stone and the vertical stability comes from horizontal geo-grid anchored by the soil as illustrated. What you are describing is for the construction of a concrete block wall with cement joints and a poured concrete footing.
Wait! No talk of foundation? No horizontal reinforcement of the wall? No vertical reinforcement? No back waterproofing? Your foundation for the area has to be poured much deeper down and be thicker and wider. No weep holes either? I suppose you did not mean this as an educational video since it’s not by any stretch. I guess it’s sort of a marketing video.
When a decently sized earthquake hits all these block and stack walls will come tumbling down. Without reinforced concrete and footings and water protections, all this crap with fail. Imagine all these walls tumbling down hill into the structures below.... its gunna be ugly
Thank you for this video, some would think that my prep work for the 2.5 ft wall I'll build in my backyard is overkill but if there's one thing we're known for in Florida it's rain and gators so I rather go overkill adding the drainage piping, the protective layer, the geogrid, anything and everything possible to avoid having my retaining wall shift later on
Right out of the top drawer. Thank you.
Other than audio not tracking with video, excellent presentation!
Thank you! Hate the audio thing haha
Do you fill the block with concrete at all and add rebar?
Do you worry about the freeze depth? In Wisconsin we have a 4 to 6 foot freezing depth and our house is having tons of problems with our retaining walls and we have unfortunately a lot.
How does one ensure that the top of that geotextile fabric that's near the cap, stays in place? Do you attach it somehow? Can you place it underneath (~1/2" or so) the cap before you glue/mortar the cap into place?
Typically, the weight of the soil on top of it and against the wall will sandwich it in place.
Does your geogrid get installed into the (sol) native ground? or Geogrid only in the compacted 3/4" limestone stone?
In my professional opinion, it should be anchored into the soil. If your wall is 6' tall, the geo-grid should be 6'-7' in length from face of wall. All of the engineered plans that I have worked with for the past 25 years calls for 12" of crushed stone behind the blocks/wall. You would need to have excavated enough soil to accommodate the proper length of geo-grid for your wall. My preference is to back fill and compact in 4" lifts with clean soil, meaning no rocks larger than 3-4". Some engineers call for first layer of geo-grid over 1st course sometimes 2nd, but never 3rd.
Please describe the type of fabric used -- Non-woven I presume (and what weight of fabric 4# 6# or?)
This dude knows what he's talking about
Good video. Thank you!
Is the install different for waterfront?
One thing that makes me itch is that small foundation block and how shallow it is regarding the bottom of the slope. I live in a place where the freezing depth is 1ft/ 30cm and the top of the foundation has to be at least 2ft/60cm below grade. And those type of walls with concrete blocks are suitable only for parapet walls or walls that aren’t structural. But funnily enough make grade adjustments without walls. Or building dry stone walls or/and gravity walls, gabions are acceptable. But as you said drainage is the king.
Do you need a drainage system even if the ground is flat and level? Also, will holes cut out at the base of the wall or put in place during construction work?
For a tiered plan. How do you plan the set back?
Describe that drainage pipe for me please. I have engineered plans, they are a little hard to follow. After getting very high quotes, I’m thinking of constructing the 48 inch by 130 long retaining wall myself. Are there holes in the drainage pipe? What material is the drainage pipe? Thanks
perforated drain pipe
Company wants to do a solid 1 piece cement retaining wall with no blocks. Is that a bad idea?
Properly engineered (and built) poured retaining walls are the strongest. Depending on the application and location, you may need to veneer the face of the poured wall for aesthetic reasons and that will increase the cost of the project. Segmental Retaining Walls (as discussed in this video) are easier to install and have a finished look upon completion.
Right to the point!
Yes sir! sorry im late here haha
Do you keep the drainage pipe behind the wall level or do you slope it? Great video!
Awesome , I'm subscribed
Can i not just backfill with concrete and not need a perforated drain?
I'd have to know more about the situation.
@@CreeksideOutdoorLiving iv built a house close to neighbours house, theres about a 200mm gap between my house wall and my neighbours drive. All detatched houses. His drive is 1 metre higher because we live on a slope. His drive is concrete. Can i not fill that gap with concrete as a permenant solution?
City codes in CA would not allow this, you would need a "L" shape footing where the L extends the opposite side of the sloped grade min 12" by 3' long.
You would need double rebar for 8" block running from the footing up through the entire height of the wall, plus all the rock, drainage and weep holes.🤔
This is a Segmental Retaining Wall. The footing for these are of crushed stone and the vertical stability comes from horizontal geo-grid anchored by the soil as illustrated. What you are describing is for the construction of a concrete block wall with cement joints and a poured concrete footing.
Wait! No talk of foundation? No horizontal reinforcement of the wall? No vertical reinforcement? No back waterproofing? Your foundation for the area has to be poured much deeper down and be thicker and wider. No weep holes either? I suppose you did not mean this as an educational video since it’s not by any stretch. I guess it’s sort of a marketing video.
This type of wall uses a different style of construction than what you're familiar with.
❤️❤️🙏🙏
Trees are a retaining walls worse enemy
When a decently sized earthquake hits all these block and stack walls will come tumbling down. Without reinforced concrete and footings and water protections, all this crap with fail. Imagine all these walls tumbling down hill into the structures below.... its gunna be ugly
Leave the teaching to someone else.
It’s not perfect but not bad