When you do your amp comparison, please, as a side note, a/b the Aiyima A07 with the A2 and/or Vidar and share your opinion. I use mine with the Sanskrit 2 and Asgard 3.
Being a channel for audience on budget, I have never seen you review any Yamaha receivers. Are they so mediocre that they don’t make it to your list or is there any other reason? As a novice I see Yamaha as a good brand, decently priced, easily available. How good they sound and what value for money they offer compared to others is something you can guide us. I have Yamaha RN 303 and KEF Q150.
Really looking forward to the comparison video. I just ordered an Emotiva XPA Gen 3 to drive my decades-old Magnepans and I thought long and hard about trying the Vidar first.
Love the channel. I enjoy the reviews of the separates. I'm just a simple man and I keep getting drawn to the more simple integrated amps. I would love to see a review of the Parasound newclassic 200 integrated or the emotiva basx ta1 integrated vs ta100.
My system consists of the Gungnir Multibit, the Freya, and a Vidar. Using a Bluesound Node as a source, and driving Magnepan .7s and Harbeth 30.2s. As a system, it's the Schiit.
Randy love your reviews so much! So far you've convinced me to invest in a pair of Aperion Supertweeters (used your link) and a TubeCube. I'm super pleased with them. I've had a Schiit Vidar for nearly a year now and I love it. Just as you say it's super clear, crystalline actually. I'm feeding it with the Schiit Saga plus (and a lot of other Schiit gear) and I couldn't be more pleased. Great review and great American products (world class actually) for not a huge amount of money. Keep up the good work!
I recently purchased a second Schiit Vidar and using as monoblocks along with a Schiit Freya Plus. What I noticed was more clarity, bass extension and a more holographic sound. It was well worth the upgrade.
I recently purchased a Vidar and a Saga S. Very impressed with the sound quality and the build quality. People worried about the lowish rated damping factor - don't. Bass quality and tightness are very good, better than my previous Rotel RB1050 amp.
Schiit makes some awesome "stuff" for the money! And I think it is okay to say it is "musical" to describe the character of the sound. I want my gear to sound like music, not like a clinic.
I think "most" people can't hear the difference(s) once you get to this level. You are right on! Schiit makes very good products and will stand behind what they make. I enjoy your videos and your sense of humor. Mr. Pete----------> aging hippie
Love those MODULAR XPA amps and the fact you can add channels up to 7 total and different wattage outputs of your choosing. Send the amp to Emotiva and they’ll load it however you want depending what you started with. I have the 3. Good review sir!
I just got a Freya+ and two Aegirs to run in mono. Beautiful sound. I have the Gungnir DAC but a combo with the Bitfrostm, Vidar. and a Saga would be great combination. That little touch of tube is really nice. They get a lot out of the Criton.
Love the "...and Justice for All" poster you have back there! That was the first cassette tape I ever bought. I was probably 8 to 10 years old. I literally played that tape thousands of times, and so began my love of music.
I have my Vidar paired with a Parasound Zpre3, which has full remote control, digital inputs, sub-out, etc. The sound is amazing. I’ve had more expensive systems than this, but none that sounded this good.
Thanks for the review. I feel like the Vidar always gets thrown in as a side-note next to the Aegir or something else. If my receiver (Marantz NR1200) isn't going to be enough to power my next speakers (Wharfedale Evo 4.2 or KEF LS50 Meta), this is for sure on my list.
Great review…nice to hear honest impressions on the Vidar, not to mention some good reminders on how many ways to preamp it these days! I was considering some different power amps to add juice through my existing integrated pre outs. Not super into ht, but would still love to hear some Star Wars space explosions on 2 ch system 👍🏼
Thanks for the look at the Vidar with bonus Freya commentary. Looking forward to the amp shootout! Re the Node, it can learn remotes. I repurposed a DVD remote to that end and it works great. The Node is brilliant kit.
Thanks for the great review. Your statement that the Vidar could be most people's end game amp makes so much sense to me, how much improvement could those extra thousands of dollars really get you. I will never know because I wouldn't spend above this to find out.
There are so many good speakers around $500 to $600 these days it makes you want to try several of them. But don't underestimate the importance of the power amp. Skip that next set of speakers you were thinking about and get a good power amp. It will make all of the speakers you have now sound better.
I own one, in black like the one shown. Got up at three in the morning to listen to music....if that says anything like the amplifier. Very happy with it. It sounded better once it had broken in about 50-60 hours, and better again after a thousand hours or so.
I have the old Vidar 1 and the only thing that bugs me about it is the little pop that happens when I turn it off. I believe the new Vidar 2 has the standby button to alleviate the annoying pop sound. Schiit also mentions that the new "2" model has speaker protection although I don't know how it goes about it.
Got the Emotiva A3 for the home theatre, need a power amp for the living room, was going to get the A2, but maybe Vidar is better to power 4ohm speakers (Emo T1+)??. T1+ sounded great w/ the A3 debating whether the Vidar would be better for the living room. Thoughts???
Between the Vidar, Aegir, and Ragnarok integrated amp, the 3 Schiit power amps serve different needs. If you don't need the Vidar's power, the Aegir is an excellent alternative.
Aegir also has those massive filter caps which are undoubtedly more expensive than those used in the Vidar. Plus throw in a few bucks for the standby switch on the front.
Agree with your assessment of the Freya, and Schiit preamps in general. If you look around the market they are specced like preamps 2-3x as much money. Just a passive preamp with remote volume control (that probably doesn’t also track like a real volume knob) is twice as much money as the Saga+. Throw in the tube buffer and they’re well north of $1000, more expensive than the Freya+ that also provides the gain stages, balanced inputs and outputs, balanced conversion from SE and more powerful buffer stages.
Would also like to add Schiit is doing a run of Freya S after supposedly finding a crate of unused chassis. At $600 it’s an absolute deal, comparable in features and also likely sound to $1500+ preamps.
That’s part of getting it at the $700 price tag. This amp is essentially feature-less, including no pre-outs for a sub, voltage input switching (110v220v), and the aforementioned rear switch and lack of 12v trigger.
Special Vidar is… Clean Power you will have … Smile it will create … Wallet it will not hurt !!! May the Cheap Audio Man be with you !!! This comment sponsored by BOB at Whataburger ….
Would be keen to see a comparison with some of these enthusiast Class D amps (like audiophonics, Internet of Music, Hypex) with NCore boards that are popping up now. PS. Love the channel!
Hi there. I have been a fan of your videos when you did cheap bookshelf comparison speakers at your backyard. And what also interest me you are cheap audioman “cheap” affordable where majority target audience can afford looking into the start of audio. But seems like your stuff are getting more and more expensive. Thanks for the journey all these while. Now I am into Chi-Fi IEM. Surprising quite a big market and community growing. Hope to see you reviewing some chi-fi IEM as in cheap stuff for the cheap audioman. ;) Also every month they are new product launch.
Benchmark AHB2. It would be interesting how the Vidar stacks up against "the one". Especially if you can get a good deal on a pre-owned or demo AHB2 (1400€)
I've had my Vidar 1 for about a month.....maybe a bit more. I bought a Saga S (didn't need the tube buffer, as I have a Decware buffer) because I liked the small form factor for my desktop rig. However, the Vidar sounds much better with my trusty old Mapletree Ultra 4 se tube preamp. The Saga is basically a buffered attenuator. It is unity gain. I think the Vidar needs a bit of voltage kick to get it to sing. Obviously just my opinion. Oh....I'm running Merlin TSM-MMe on desktop. source is macmini feeding a Bifrost 2. The single Vidar runs out of gas pretty quickly trying to power my new Maggie LRS. It just can't deliver the required current. Those will rock when I get one of my Odyssey Stratos monos repaired, as I accidentally shorted the output when a speaker wire came loose. The Vidar is a decent amp, but for a bit more money, I'd pick up an Odyssey Khartago.
Finally, a review that actually helped me to understand the one thing I wanted to hear about this amp. And that is .... it provides a clean and true audio representation of the source/pre-amp that feeds it. Considering the tube preamp I really really want (Spacetech/Canada) it is imperative that the power amp do just what is being described here AND ... with gobs of power (for my needs) GREAT REVIEW!! and Thank you Randy and if you ever get an Aegir for review ... I'll be all ears.
I have one and a Crown XLS which is said to be very neutral and true to the source for such a cheap amp. And yeah the Vidar sounds almost identical with maybe a hair more saturation in the midrange if that helps.
@@andrewfurst5711 The Aegir has more resolution; the entire frequency band is rendered much more naturally and life-like. In comparison, the Vidar sounds dull and recessed. For the Aegir to work though, you need speakers with 91db sensitivity or better, otherwise bass becomes flabby and indistinct, and the whole presentation can sound much less dynamic.
@@decoryder For a speaker that doesn't like a more warm amp (Such as the Aegir like you're describing) such as the JBL studio 570 and 530. What would you recommend for those speakers. Or even so what would you recommend for the Aegir for bookshelf speakers or floor standing speakers? Thanks man
@@joeslacker1020 Hi Joe. The Aegir is not a 'warm' amp, that's a misconception - in fact most well done class a amps are actually more revealing than their class a/b counterparts. The best combination I found for the Aegir is a pair of ZU Audio DWII's, and that combination is absolutely stellar. I ran some JBL Studio 590's with my Aegir, and I didn't like the sound, but that was a result of running the 590's not the Aegir. If you want a 'warm' amp, meaning an amp that will attenuate treble somewhat, look at the Vidar - it has gobs of power, and is an all-around great amp that you can run with pretty much anything:)
This is my endgame amplifier. However, I am going to also play with tube amps. I purchased a BoyuuRange MT-34 MKII EL34 after waching yoru video, and plan on switching between the amps based on what I feel like running.
All these great little dac/headphone amp/amps that are out now. They're fantastic for the money, tempting to buy several. But skip a few and save up money for a good power amp.
Very interesting. Not many other reviewers mentioned how neutral the Vidar actually is. I picked one up to compare to my Crown XLS amp to see if class AB was the bees knees like everyone says and honestly they sound almost identical. Both the crown and Vidar have stupid good bass, pleasant highs and I felt the midrange was a touch dry on both but with the Vidar having ever so slight an edge. Not sure it's worth the extra power draw but dang is it pretty in a Sith way. I got the black as well lol. They are both input to output amps with very little coloration. Everyone is always saying most DACs should sound the same and not add coloration but every single DAC I've heard sounds noticeably different regardless of cost. Meanwhile it would take a lot of listening for me to pick out the ultra cheap class D amp from a class AB that is over twice the price.
Awesome to read your insight and comparison to the Crown. I love my crown and have debated for some time as whether I should get a Vidar. Class D for me is more impactful with presence and any class AB I have ever had. Class AB has always been more laid back. Of course the elephant in the room is that midrange in the class D… add a tube buffer and there is the fix most desire.
@@Sevs563 Yeah I currently am using a tube headphone amp as a pre amp I originally got to pair with the Crown. With the 1002 being around $300 I can't really think of a better deal on an amp for those that need the power.
I haven’t seen too many people who are using the Asgard for volume control of their main system. I own one but only use it as volume control for my mini desktop speakers when not using headphones. Have you tried a passive pre? From what I have read, the headphone amplifiers tend to collapse the soundstage when used as preamps for power amps.
The Vidar looks awesome. Would be cool if the Aegir's stand-by button trickled down for the next iteration (assuming there is one). I see a lot of really positive customer reviews for the Parasound NewClassic 275v2 and 2125v2 power amps, both of which are in the same general price ballpark. Never heard them myself though.
I own a 275V2. Really enjoy this amp for the money. It can be purchased new at reduced price for $520 or found open box for even less, which is a killer deal for 90 WPC. They are also very heavy like the Vidar thanks to the massive transformer, and run very cool compared to other class AB amps. I think it struggles a bit once you start pushing it out of the class A bias which is probably quite low to keep the heat loss down. However, I tend to listen around 65 db so I’m hardly ever pushing it and in that regard it definitely suits my needs. The low heat means I can safely stack components on top of it without fear of overheating. Overall I give it a thumbs up, and when my toddler grows up enough so that I can reinstall my center channel into my home theater I am going to pick up a nicer amp and keep the 275V2 to power the center speaker.
I would like to add that the topology of the amp is not elegant because it’s crammed into a half-height chassis compared to larger amps. I suspect the channels could have the potential to bleed into each other since they are so close to one another. Still, no complains at my listening levels.
I have a Yamaha RXV6A basically running as a pre amp. It has 2.1 HDMI, phono stage, subwoofer out, the app has every streaming service you need and you can connect any streaming device you want to it. I use a Emotiva A300 to power my Evo 4.3 to great result. I really don’t understand why anyone buys a pre amp these days. Especially if it has no streaming service or even a DAC. With DSP and YPAO I can control how “musical” I want my speakers to be and switch between 2ch stere, all channel stereo, pure direct or Atmos at the flick of a switch. A receiver and a power amp is a pretty smart way if you want to have best of both worlds and still leaves room for a DAC if I want to experiment with sound
@@shitsandwich1983I understand that but I think that also stems from a time when you had to buy separates as there wasn’t much option and they did sound better. I don’t buy the amplifier v AV argument anymore. Personally having so many moving parts with separates now, although fun experimenting with, has an influence on the sound. In 2021, there are many great options that have great connectivity, sound amazing and are accessible. For me anyway
I have the Yamaha RXV6A, and decided to start experimenting with low-cost separates (covered by Randy's channel) a little over a year ago, while keeping the AVR in the mix. The AVR is still functioning as my home theater "hub" but for music listening, it's mostly just functioning as a pass-through, except for room-correction and adding the Subwoofer. Current setup: Arylic S50 Pro+ Streamer-->Schiit Modi 3 DAC-->Yamaha AVR-->MT-602 Tube Buffer-->Aiiyima A07 Amplifier w/48V 7A psu-->ELAC UB52. In my opinion, the sound improved substantially in specific ways, with each one of those items, in that long chain. Every aspect. Clarity, balance, soundstage, smoothness, detail, and the 3-dimensional "holographic" sound is remarkably improved. It's been a fun journey trying each of these things. I generally like keeping the YPAO engaged, but having the AVR-->subwoofer in-the-mix makes it complete. My next attempt to upgrade would probably be a better power amplifier to replace the A07, but I don't know if that will really make any difference at all. And it would be more $ than any of those components currently in the string. Almost all of them were less than $100. The Modi-3 DAC + Tube Buffer + A07 power amp completely change the experience. -for the better.
Looks like I've got a 3-piece band in mind.. CSS Criton 1TD-X superior crossover, driven by a Bluesound Node into the Vidar. Yeah? Ya think? I'm kinda digging the idea.. Something to pull over my Roku, wifi stream, USB hard drive stream, and drive some killer 2-ways.
Though your not keeping the freya +... Im assuming u tried it with the ares 2 and bifrost 2? If my assumptions are true...curious what the freya + brought to the table with either dacs. Is there a unexplained synergy with the freya and bifrost?
I've been looking at that amp and the Freya plus maybe with whatever speaker I decide: Elac 2.0 UB52, or maybe JBL 4312G or something...Curious: How would you answer this---You have a preamp and amp without: HT bypass, without HDMI, and without Optical...like a vintage amp/preamp combo. How on Gods earth would you, could you, incorporate this system in with a dedicated AVR for home theater? The only way I am thinking is either through a DAC that offers HDMI, or something, or maybe a RCA to HDMI converter? The only other way I guess is to unplug the main speakers from the dedicated 2 channel and plug them into the AVR when you want home theater, then back again when you want 2 ch. music? That seems way too much work. Thanks
Just use a power amp on the preamp outputs of the AVR. Instead of the on board amps. If it's a vintage receiver with no amp input. Just set the volume like a gain switch, and use the aux input. Might not be perfect, but it will work. Oh and there are amps with speaker level inputs too. If that's all you've got. Parasound Zonemaster 2350 for instance. ✌️
The Vidar is a high value amp. It does have limits though. I ran mine with inefficient speakers at first which had no problem putting the Vidar into thermal protection after a few minutes of music at volume. A more efficient KEF R3 now keeps the Vidar nice and cool. Definitely a good “first” amp.
@@matthewpool494 I would say that the Metas are capable of much greater detail retrieval than the Vidar can offer. The Vidar is a good but not great amp whereas the Metas punch above their weight when paired with the right amp. If you can find one, you might check out a Primare i30. I have one of these that I just had recapped and OMG. Astonishing detail retrieval and power. If you’re trying to stick to a budget consider the i30(Swedish company with unique design). Mine has had me up late the last few nights, hearing new things in speakers I’ve had for almost ten years.
@@sheerkhanful Thanks for the detailed reply. Very informative. I am looking to upgrade my amplification and add Dirac for my current speakers, R3 and LS50 Meta. I have been looking at budget options but keep getting rabbit holed up to stuff like Benchmark AHB2, stc. :-) I'll take a look at your suggestions.
This is a great question. I’d also love to know this. I’m running the Prime Soundbase to power my speakers, but am interested in the Vidar. Not sure what kind of power the Soundbase produces at 8 ohms since it isn’t listed anywhere. I know it’s 150 watts per channel at 4 ohms so maybe it’s something like 75 into 8? Would the Vidar be an upgrade if this is the case? Anyway would be an awesome comparison.
I actually like the letters and numbers naming schemes, as long as it's relatively obvious what the system is. When I make my own hifi equipment company my products are going to be named like this: CT = cassette tape decks ET = 8 track tape decks RtR = reel to reel TT = turntable LD = laser disc VT = VHS tape deck MS = matrix stereo processor (for converting mono to simulated stereo) etc. and then the quality level is the first number 1xx = top of the line. No expense spared. 2xx = some attention to cost, but no compromises on discernable build or sound quality. 3xx = top of the practical line with only theoretical compromises to build or sound quality but attention to cost. 4xx = best value, hi fidelity made as affordable as possible 5xx = lowest cost for truly cherishable objects with limited features 6xx = total junk with our name on it second two numbers are the year they came out, or just a serial number (haven't made up my mind) x19 = the FM tuner we released in 2019 x23 = the holographic image projector we'll release in 2123, or maybe the 23rd holographic image projector design we came up with. so, for instance QA-326 would be a Quintaphonic Amplifier (5 channel surround sound [north, south, east, west and overhead 'sky' channels]) of excellent quality, full features and only the most essential compromises made to bring the cost down, released in 2026. Of course we could always give the products names AND letter-number codes. The FD-587, a high quality floppy disk audio player with basic controls and no remote from 1987 could also be known as the El Camino. We could even do a cool logo, and maybe even an animal mascot like a bird with a mustache! The PS-406,an affordable, high quality hanging pendant speaker, could also be known as Herkimer's Corkscrew and sport a stylish logo with a mascot that is a scorpion sitting in a chair, or maybe a winking codfish, or a snail giving a thumbs up. Now all I have to do is come up with a spokesman for the TV commercials. I'd like to use Steve Buscemi's voice regardless of who we put on screen. I wonder if Jane Kaczmarek, the mom from Malcom in the Middle is available?
I almost made a rookie move and was going ask if you could compare it to a Crown XLS1502 or SMSL AO200/DA-9 and should have watched the whole video first...
Yeah I’m finished with my main system (for now). Just finished it off by getting my bifrost off backorder and it added body to the system I was looking for. iPad>bifrost2>saga+>Vidar>b&w CM09s2 plus a klipsch sub. If I go above this stuff it is gonna cost manny thousands so I’m gonna have to stop here for the next few years.
@@t3dewys Klipch speakers in general are high sensitivty speakers (89-96dB), wich equals to more efficient speakers. The Aegir give you 20W RMS per channel (8 Ohms) or 40W RMS per channel (4 Ohms), wich is more than enough for Klipsch in general. The reason Jerry encourages you to use the Aegir instead of the Vidar is because the Aegir is a class-A amp and Vidar is a class-A/B amp. Class-A amps are generally the most sought after in the audiophile world (atleast among those who spend alot of money on equipment). Apologize if I overexplained this, wasn't sure what you knew before :)
Let's not forget the Chromecast Audio ! I have one connected to a crown amp xls for my large outdoor speakers. Works like a charm. Still can't get why Google killed that device smh.
People talk about sound with the Aegir vs Vidar all the time, but not enough about the disadvantage of Class A - the heat it throws. If Class A fits your lifestyle then I’ve no doubt the Aegir is a better amp for you.
For you apartment dwellers who have to turn your loud music off around this time, there is a good horror film marathon on the Scared The Bejeezus Out Of Me Channel. The night kicks off with a movie that Chicken Audio Falcon Hawk might have produced: Poultrygeist: Attack Of The Oval Shaped Unborn Unhatched Zombies. (they roll).. Then at: 11:18pm Attack Of The Killer Lawnchairs 12:12am Attack Of The Killer Refrigerators (I don't know which one came first, refrigerator, lawn chairs or maybe it was even the eggs. But I think you'll be able to follow the plot anyway. 1:16 am. Ghost In The Invisible Bikini 2:29am. Hillbillies In A Haunted House 3:46am. Attack Of The Killer Tomatoes. (I'm glad they are showing that one last. We've all seen that one dozens of times. Yawn.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Schiit Vidar bit.ly/3kUrzdD
Emotiva A2 bit.ly/2WW5qmF
Emotiva XPA Gen 3 bit.ly/2WW5qmF
Bluesound Node amzn.to/3zNFfgT
SMSL SU8s amzn.to/3zRxiY2
Schiit Modius bit.ly/3BHXvIY
Amazon Music and Disney Plus Free Trial amzn.to/3DRAVj9
When you do your amp comparison, please, as a side note, a/b the Aiyima A07 with the A2 and/or Vidar and share your opinion. I use mine with the Sanskrit 2 and Asgard 3.
Being a channel for audience on budget, I have never seen you review any Yamaha receivers. Are they so mediocre that they don’t make it to your list or is there any other reason? As a novice I see Yamaha as a good brand, decently priced, easily available. How good they sound and what value for money they offer compared to others is something you can guide us.
I have Yamaha RN 303 and KEF Q150.
@@lalypaly i loved my yamaha avr's.
Really looking forward to the comparison video. I just ordered an Emotiva XPA Gen 3 to drive my decades-old Magnepans and I thought long and hard about trying the Vidar first.
Love the channel. I enjoy the reviews of the separates. I'm just a simple man and I keep getting drawn to the more simple integrated amps. I would love to see a review of the Parasound newclassic 200 integrated or the emotiva basx ta1 integrated vs ta100.
Dark Vidar, works well with all Sith Audio components and accessories.
Clever =)
I just like having companies like Schiit around because they seem to bridge the gap between entry and high-end and do it with style.
Man I love this channel. Very humble and down to earth.
This is just the schitt I was looking for this morning! Once RCR uploads my Monday reviews will be complete with BROWN and SCHITT!
Good one Randy. Interesting that you loved the Vidar/Node combo. Thanks for this.
My system consists of the Gungnir Multibit, the Freya, and a Vidar. Using a Bluesound Node as a source, and driving Magnepan .7s and Harbeth 30.2s.
As a system, it's the Schiit.
Really looking forward to seeing your comparison of the Vidar and the Emotiva A2.
Thanks all your videos.
Randy love your reviews so much! So far you've convinced me to invest in a pair of Aperion Supertweeters (used your link) and a TubeCube. I'm super pleased with them. I've had a Schiit Vidar for nearly a year now and I love it. Just as you say it's super clear, crystalline actually. I'm feeding it with the Schiit Saga plus (and a lot of other Schiit gear) and I couldn't be more pleased. Great review and great American products (world class actually) for not a huge amount of money. Keep up the good work!
I recently purchased a second Schiit Vidar and using as monoblocks along with a Schiit Freya Plus. What I noticed was more clarity, bass extension and a more holographic sound. It was well worth the upgrade.
What speakers are they driving in mono?
@@kenstewart7811 ELAC - Solano FS287 Tower Speakers
Thanks for the review. I ordered the vidar and saga + back in May. Still waiting.
I recently purchased a Vidar and a Saga S. Very impressed with the sound quality and the build quality. People worried about the lowish rated damping factor - don't. Bass quality and tightness are very good, better than my previous Rotel RB1050 amp.
This would be a great addition to my collection of Schiit!!! Looking forward to the Amp Shootout! 👍👍👍
A truly GREAT review! The best Schiit Vidar video I have seen to date!
I’m looking forward to seeing the comparisons of the 3 amps
Schiit makes some awesome "stuff" for the money! And I think it is okay to say it is "musical" to describe the character of the sound. I want my gear to sound like music, not like a clinic.
I think "most" people can't hear the difference(s) once you get to this level. You are right on! Schiit makes very good products and will stand behind what they make. I enjoy your videos and your sense of humor.
Mr. Pete---------->
aging hippie
Love those MODULAR XPA amps and the fact you can add channels up to 7 total and different wattage outputs of your choosing. Send the amp to Emotiva and they’ll load it however you want depending what you started with. I have the 3. Good review sir!
I just got a Freya+ and two Aegirs to run in mono. Beautiful sound. I have the Gungnir DAC but a combo with the Bitfrostm, Vidar. and a Saga would be great combination. That little touch of tube is really nice. They get a lot out of the Criton.
Holy Toledo the intro was AWESOME!! Great review Randy
Love the "...and Justice for All" poster you have back there! That was the first cassette tape I ever bought. I was probably 8 to 10 years old. I literally played that tape thousands of times, and so began my love of music.
I have my Vidar paired with a Parasound Zpre3, which has full remote control, digital inputs, sub-out, etc. The sound is amazing. I’ve had more expensive systems than this, but none that sounded this good.
Thanks for the review. I feel like the Vidar always gets thrown in as a side-note next to the Aegir or something else. If my receiver (Marantz NR1200) isn't going to be enough to power my next speakers (Wharfedale Evo 4.2 or KEF LS50 Meta), this is for sure on my list.
"It's an older node, but it checks out". That made me LOL. Love it!
Very helpful video. Wish I had watched this a long time ago.
Great review…nice to hear honest impressions on the Vidar, not to mention some good reminders on how many ways to preamp it these days! I was considering some different power amps to add juice through my existing integrated pre outs. Not super into ht, but would still love to hear some Star Wars space explosions on 2 ch system 👍🏼
Thanks for the look at the Vidar with bonus Freya commentary. Looking forward to the amp shootout!
Re the Node, it can learn remotes. I repurposed a DVD remote to that end and it works great. The Node is brilliant kit.
Thanks for the great review. Your statement that the Vidar could be most people's end game amp makes so much sense to me, how much improvement could those extra thousands of dollars really get you. I will never know because I wouldn't spend above this to find out.
There are so many good speakers around $500 to $600 these days it makes you want to try several of them. But don't underestimate the importance of the power amp. Skip that next set of speakers you were thinking about and get a good power amp. It will make all of the speakers you have now sound better.
How is an amplifier going to help the sound though the signal comes from the preamp
I own one, in black like the one shown. Got up at three in the morning to listen to music....if that says anything like the amplifier. Very happy with it. It sounded better once it had broken in about 50-60 hours, and better again after a thousand hours or so.
what does the rest of your setup consist of?
Fluance RT 82 Turntable, UMC 200 Emotiva Pre Amp, Sony CD player utilizing a Schiit Modi DAC for additional clairty, PAradigm floor standing speakers.
I have the old Vidar 1 and the only thing that bugs me about it is the little pop that happens when I turn it off. I believe the new Vidar 2 has the standby button to alleviate the annoying pop sound. Schiit also mentions that the new "2" model has speaker protection although I don't know how it goes about it.
"Return of the Jedi". When the shuttle was landing on Endor.
You mean when the shuttle was moving through the security line as they were approaching the planet to land 😉
Vidar to Loki: "Loki, *I* am your father. Search your feelings, you know it to be true."
Got the Emotiva A3 for the home theatre, need a power amp for the living room, was going to get the A2, but maybe Vidar is better to power 4ohm speakers (Emo T1+)??. T1+ sounded great w/ the A3 debating whether the Vidar would be better for the living room. Thoughts???
Superb review. Well done Sith audio. You can get 2 to run as monoblocks@ 2x400w to run as fully balanced - 8 ohms is your limit here.
Cheap audio man is slowly becoming decent audio man.
I have a Marantz NR1608 and just bought a Vidar so I can hook up the preamp outputs to it for the front L/R. Rock on!
Dude, big thanks for covering H.T. products and definitely "power amps" that won't break your pockets ! 👍🏽
I am literally just now pulling the trigger to try your idea of a Node X for streamer/DAC/preamp into a Vidar 2 powering yes a pair of Criton 1TDX’s.
Between the Vidar, Aegir, and Ragnarok integrated amp, the 3 Schiit power amps serve different needs. If you don't need the Vidar's power, the Aegir is an excellent alternative.
why are the aegir more expensive than the vidar?
@@damiankirkwood7924 Class A operation requires a much bigger power supply for a given output. In addition Schiit has a proprietary biasing system.
@@1mctous thanks!
Aegir also has those massive filter caps which are undoubtedly more expensive than those used in the Vidar. Plus throw in a few bucks for the standby switch on the front.
Agree with your assessment of the Freya, and Schiit preamps in general. If you look around the market they are specced like preamps 2-3x as much money. Just a passive preamp with remote volume control (that probably doesn’t also track like a real volume knob) is twice as much money as the Saga+. Throw in the tube buffer and they’re well north of $1000, more expensive than the Freya+ that also provides the gain stages, balanced inputs and outputs, balanced conversion from SE and more powerful buffer stages.
Would also like to add Schiit is doing a run of Freya S after supposedly finding a crate of unused chassis. At $600 it’s an absolute deal, comparable in features and also likely sound to $1500+ preamps.
Good one, Randy! A pair of those bridged in mono would be hard to beat for the money!
A pair of these (Vidar 2), or another $1600 on a pair of Tyrs? Paired with my Freya +N.
Not to mention, you can step it up and make it a fully balanced mono block if you get two of them.
Not having a power switch on the front or a 12v trigger is a problem for me.
Same here, no trigger is a deal killer for me.
That’s part of getting it at the $700 price tag. This amp is essentially feature-less, including no pre-outs for a sub, voltage input switching (110v220v), and the aforementioned rear switch and lack of 12v trigger.
@@YuengsNwings It doesn't save any money putting the power switch on the back. Its just schiit's thing not to have a power switch on the front.
Wow, I really wasn't sure before but this is good content.
The new Lokius and this might be an awesome pairing for an old school approach with eq:)
Review that old Yamaha receiver, or whatever that is.
Special Vidar is…
Clean Power you will have …
Smile it will create …
Wallet it will not hurt !!!
May the Cheap Audio Man be with you !!!
This comment sponsored by BOB at Whataburger ….
Would be keen to see a comparison with some of these enthusiast Class D amps (like audiophonics, Internet of Music, Hypex) with NCore boards that are popping up now. PS. Love the channel!
"Vidar... change one letter and it becomes Vader" made me chuckle :D, but for the rest, nice review!
ha. I thought the same thing...
Need to get your hands on the TYR’s
Hi there. I have been a fan of your videos when you did cheap bookshelf comparison speakers at your backyard. And what also interest me you are cheap audioman “cheap” affordable where majority target audience can afford looking into the start of audio.
But seems like your stuff are getting more and more expensive.
Thanks for the journey all these while. Now I am into Chi-Fi IEM. Surprising quite a big market and community growing. Hope to see you reviewing some chi-fi IEM as in cheap stuff for the cheap audioman. ;)
Also every month they are new product launch.
That chamber in The Empire Strikes Back allows Darth Vader to exist safely without having his helmet on. He often meditates that way.
Benchmark AHB2. It would be interesting how the Vidar stacks up against "the one". Especially if you can get a good deal on a pre-owned or demo AHB2 (1400€)
I am looking at getting a pair of these and running them mono, looking to upgrade my speakers too, possibly Martin Logans, Maggis or Tektons.
I've had my Vidar 1 for about a month.....maybe a bit more. I bought a Saga S (didn't need the tube buffer, as I have a Decware buffer) because I liked the small form factor for my desktop rig. However, the Vidar sounds much better with my trusty old Mapletree Ultra 4 se tube preamp. The Saga is basically a buffered attenuator. It is unity gain. I think the Vidar needs a bit of voltage kick to get it to sing. Obviously just my opinion. Oh....I'm running Merlin TSM-MMe on desktop. source is macmini feeding a Bifrost 2. The single Vidar runs out of gas pretty quickly trying to power my new Maggie LRS. It just can't deliver the required current. Those will rock when I get one of my Odyssey Stratos monos repaired, as I accidentally shorted the output when a speaker wire came loose. The Vidar is a decent amp, but for a bit more money, I'd pick up an Odyssey Khartago.
Finally, a review that actually helped me to understand the one thing I wanted to hear about this amp.
And that is .... it provides a clean and true audio representation of the source/pre-amp that feeds it.
Considering the tube preamp I really really want (Spacetech/Canada) it is imperative that the power
amp do just what is being described here AND ... with gobs of power (for my needs) GREAT REVIEW!!
and Thank you Randy and if you ever get an Aegir for review ... I'll be all ears.
I have one and a Crown XLS which is said to be very neutral and true to the source for such a cheap amp. And yeah the Vidar sounds almost identical with maybe a hair more saturation in the midrange if that helps.
I have the Vidar and the Aegir; the Vidar has more power, the Aegir sounds much better - both are great amps.
In what way(s) does the Aegir sound better than the Vidar? Thanks.
@@andrewfurst5711 The Aegir has more resolution; the entire frequency band is rendered much more naturally and life-like. In comparison, the Vidar sounds dull and recessed. For the Aegir to work though, you need speakers with 91db sensitivity or better, otherwise bass becomes flabby and indistinct, and the whole presentation can sound much less dynamic.
@@decoryder I would imagine 89 dB or higher
@@decoryder For a speaker that doesn't like a more warm amp (Such as the Aegir like you're describing) such as the JBL studio 570 and 530. What would you recommend for those speakers. Or even so what would you recommend for the Aegir for bookshelf speakers or floor standing speakers? Thanks man
@@joeslacker1020 Hi Joe. The Aegir is not a 'warm' amp, that's a misconception - in fact most well done class a amps are actually more revealing than their class a/b counterparts. The best combination I found for the Aegir is a pair of ZU Audio DWII's, and that combination is absolutely stellar. I ran some JBL Studio 590's with my Aegir, and I didn't like the sound, but that was a result of running the 590's not the Aegir.
If you want a 'warm' amp, meaning an amp that will attenuate treble somewhat, look at the Vidar - it has gobs of power, and is an all-around great amp that you can run with pretty much anything:)
This is my endgame amplifier. However, I am going to also play with tube amps. I purchased a BoyuuRange MT-34 MKII EL34 after waching yoru video, and plan on switching between the amps based on what I feel like running.
All these great little dac/headphone amp/amps that are out now. They're fantastic for the money, tempting to buy several. But skip a few and save up money for a good power amp.
Very interesting. Not many other reviewers mentioned how neutral the Vidar actually is. I picked one up to compare to my Crown XLS amp to see if class AB was the bees knees like everyone says and honestly they sound almost identical. Both the crown and Vidar have stupid good bass, pleasant highs and I felt the midrange was a touch dry on both but with the Vidar having ever so slight an edge. Not sure it's worth the extra power draw but dang is it pretty in a Sith way. I got the black as well lol.
They are both input to output amps with very little coloration. Everyone is always saying most DACs should sound the same and not add coloration but every single DAC I've heard sounds noticeably different regardless of cost. Meanwhile it would take a lot of listening for me to pick out the ultra cheap class D amp from a class AB that is over twice the price.
Awesome to read your insight and comparison to the Crown. I love my crown and have debated for some time as whether I should get a Vidar. Class D for me is more impactful with presence and any class AB I have ever had. Class AB has always been more laid back. Of course the elephant in the room is that midrange in the class D… add a tube buffer and there is the fix most desire.
@@Sevs563 Yeah I currently am using a tube headphone amp as a pre amp I originally got to pair with the Crown. With the 1002 being around $300 I can't really think of a better deal on an amp for those that need the power.
Thanks Randy! Just placed my Schiit order!! MTFBWY
Don't forget the Asgard. It is an awesome preamp that adds a pinch of magic to the dac signal.
I haven’t seen too many people who are using the Asgard for volume control of their main system. I own one but only use it as volume control for my mini desktop speakers when not using headphones. Have you tried a passive pre? From what I have read, the headphone amplifiers tend to collapse the soundstage when used as preamps for power amps.
They say Schiit flows downhill. I’m like Randy, finally it has rolled down to the level of my wallet. Thanks for the review.
Randy, can you review and compare the Vidar and others to a pair of the Outlaw Audio pancake mono blocks?
I asked the bot at Schiit it advised against pairing the Magni with the Vidar amp
Love the Channel.
The Vidar looks awesome. Would be cool if the Aegir's stand-by button trickled down for the next iteration (assuming there is one). I see a lot of really positive customer reviews for the Parasound NewClassic 275v2 and 2125v2 power amps, both of which are in the same general price ballpark. Never heard them myself though.
I own a 275V2. Really enjoy this amp for the money. It can be purchased new at reduced price for $520 or found open box for even less, which is a killer deal for 90 WPC. They are also very heavy like the Vidar thanks to the massive transformer, and run very cool compared to other class AB amps. I think it struggles a bit once you start pushing it out of the class A bias which is probably quite low to keep the heat loss down. However, I tend to listen around 65 db so I’m hardly ever pushing it and in that regard it definitely suits my needs. The low heat means I can safely stack components on top of it without fear of overheating. Overall I give it a thumbs up, and when my toddler grows up enough so that I can reinstall my center channel into my home theater I am going to pick up a nicer amp and keep the 275V2 to power the center speaker.
I would like to add that the topology of the amp is not elegant because it’s crammed into a half-height chassis compared to larger amps. I suspect the channels could have the potential to bleed into each other since they are so close to one another. Still, no complains at my listening levels.
I have a Yamaha RXV6A basically running as a pre amp. It has 2.1 HDMI, phono stage, subwoofer out, the app has every streaming service you need and you can connect any streaming device you want to it. I use a Emotiva A300 to power my Evo 4.3 to great result.
I really don’t understand why anyone buys a pre amp these days. Especially if it has no streaming service or even a DAC.
With DSP and YPAO I can control how “musical” I want my speakers to be and switch between 2ch stere, all channel stereo, pure direct or Atmos at the flick of a switch.
A receiver and a power amp is a pretty smart way if you want to have best of both worlds and still leaves room for a DAC if I want to experiment with sound
people might buy standalone, singular use equipment because they think it sounds better or they want to play with the different pieces in the chain.
@@shitsandwich1983I understand that but I think that also stems from a time when you had to buy separates as there wasn’t much option and they did sound better. I don’t buy the amplifier v AV argument anymore.
Personally having so many moving parts with separates now, although fun experimenting with, has an influence on the sound. In 2021, there are many great options that have great connectivity, sound amazing and are accessible. For me anyway
I have the Yamaha RXV6A, and decided to start experimenting with low-cost separates (covered by Randy's channel) a little over a year ago, while keeping the AVR in the mix. The AVR is still functioning as my home theater "hub" but for music listening, it's mostly just functioning as a pass-through, except for room-correction and adding the Subwoofer.
Current setup: Arylic S50 Pro+ Streamer-->Schiit Modi 3 DAC-->Yamaha AVR-->MT-602 Tube Buffer-->Aiiyima A07 Amplifier w/48V 7A psu-->ELAC UB52.
In my opinion, the sound improved substantially in specific ways, with each one of those items, in that long chain. Every aspect. Clarity, balance, soundstage, smoothness, detail, and the 3-dimensional "holographic" sound is remarkably improved. It's been a fun journey trying each of these things. I generally like keeping the YPAO engaged, but having the AVR-->subwoofer in-the-mix makes it complete.
My next attempt to upgrade would probably be a better power amplifier to replace the A07, but I don't know if that will really make any difference at all. And it would be more $ than any of those components currently in the string. Almost all of them were less than $100.
The Modi-3 DAC + Tube Buffer + A07 power amp completely change the experience. -for the better.
AGREE .. I love their naming. Great review.. really nice product. =)
Looks like I've got a 3-piece band in mind.. CSS Criton 1TD-X superior crossover, driven by a Bluesound Node into the Vidar. Yeah? Ya think? I'm kinda digging the idea.. Something to pull over my Roku, wifi stream, USB hard drive stream, and drive some killer 2-ways.
Is Vidar just overkill for sensitive speakers like Klipsch Forte IV or Heresy?
Though your not keeping the freya +... Im assuming u tried it with the ares 2 and bifrost 2? If my assumptions are true...curious what the freya + brought to the table with either dacs. Is there a unexplained synergy with the freya and bifrost?
i believe he said the ares ii + freya was a bit thin, and that the bifrost ii + freya gave a meatier presentation.
@@shitsandwich1983 ur correct. I had to re-watch it. Thank you.
I've been looking at that amp and the Freya plus maybe with whatever speaker I decide: Elac 2.0 UB52, or maybe JBL 4312G or something...Curious: How would you answer this---You have a preamp and amp without: HT bypass, without HDMI, and without Optical...like a vintage amp/preamp combo. How on Gods earth would you, could you, incorporate this system in with a dedicated AVR for home theater? The only way I am thinking is either through a DAC that offers HDMI, or something, or maybe a RCA to HDMI converter? The only other way I guess is to unplug the main speakers from the dedicated 2 channel and plug them into the AVR when you want home theater, then back again when you want 2 ch. music? That seems way too much work. Thanks
Just use a power amp on the preamp outputs of the AVR. Instead of the on board amps. If it's a vintage receiver with no amp input. Just set the volume like a gain switch, and use the aux input. Might not be perfect, but it will work. Oh and there are amps with speaker level inputs too. If that's all you've got. Parasound Zonemaster 2350 for instance. ✌️
Randy, Did you feed the 1TDX speakers with this Bad Boy? I'm betting that would be great!
6-8 weeks out on their website. BRUTAL …
That's nothing compared to DJ equipment. The industry stopped taking orders for mixer... they are talking June or July...
The Vidar is a high value amp. It does have limits though. I ran mine with inefficient speakers at first which had no problem putting the Vidar into thermal protection after a few minutes of music at volume. A more efficient KEF R3 now keeps the Vidar nice and cool. Definitely a good “first” amp.
Any idea about Vidar to LS50 Meta?
@@matthewpool494 I would say that the Metas are capable of much greater detail retrieval than the Vidar can offer. The Vidar is a good but not great amp whereas the Metas punch above their weight when paired with the right amp. If you can find one, you might check out a Primare i30. I have one of these that I just had recapped and OMG. Astonishing detail retrieval and power. If you’re trying to stick to a budget consider the i30(Swedish company with unique design). Mine has had me up late the last few nights, hearing new things in speakers I’ve had for almost ten years.
@@sheerkhanful Thanks for the detailed reply. Very informative. I am looking to upgrade my amplification and add Dirac for my current speakers, R3 and LS50 Meta. I have been looking at budget options but keep getting rabbit holed up to stuff like Benchmark AHB2, stc. :-) I'll take a look at your suggestions.
A smaller form factor of this with 50w into 8, and 100w into 4, would be amazing.
Just would like to know what the difference is between hooking up the vidar to the marantz or to the freya + for music.
Randy, always look forward to your Schiit...different beasts I know, but for amplification Vidar or SVS Prime???
This is a great question. I’d also love to know this. I’m running the Prime Soundbase to power my speakers, but am interested in the Vidar. Not sure what kind of power the Soundbase produces at 8 ohms since it isn’t listed anywhere. I know it’s 150 watts per channel at 4 ohms so maybe it’s something like 75 into 8? Would the Vidar be an upgrade if this is the case? Anyway would be an awesome comparison.
Cooling fins? Heat sinks would be the proper technical description.
Wonder what CAM would think of two Vidars hocked up to the Freya + ?
I actually like the letters and numbers naming schemes, as long as it's relatively obvious what the system is. When I make my own hifi equipment company my products are going to be named like this:
CT = cassette tape decks
ET = 8 track tape decks
RtR = reel to reel
TT = turntable
LD = laser disc
VT = VHS tape deck
MS = matrix stereo processor (for converting mono to simulated stereo)
etc.
and then the quality level is the first number
1xx = top of the line. No expense spared.
2xx = some attention to cost, but no compromises on discernable build or sound quality.
3xx = top of the practical line with only theoretical compromises to build or sound quality but attention to cost.
4xx = best value, hi fidelity made as affordable as possible
5xx = lowest cost for truly cherishable objects with limited features
6xx = total junk with our name on it
second two numbers are the year they came out, or just a serial number (haven't made up my mind)
x19 = the FM tuner we released in 2019
x23 = the holographic image projector we'll release in 2123, or maybe the 23rd holographic image projector design we came up with.
so, for instance
QA-326 would be a Quintaphonic Amplifier (5 channel surround sound [north, south, east, west and overhead 'sky' channels]) of excellent quality, full features and only the most essential compromises made to bring the cost down, released in 2026.
Of course we could always give the products names AND letter-number codes. The FD-587, a high quality floppy disk audio player with basic controls and no remote from 1987 could also be known as the El Camino. We could even do a cool logo, and maybe even an animal mascot like a bird with a mustache! The PS-406,an affordable, high quality hanging pendant speaker, could also be known as Herkimer's Corkscrew and sport a stylish logo with a mascot that is a scorpion sitting in a chair, or maybe a winking codfish, or a snail giving a thumbs up.
Now all I have to do is come up with a spokesman for the TV commercials. I'd like to use Steve Buscemi's voice regardless of who we put on screen. I wonder if Jane Kaczmarek, the mom from Malcom in the Middle is available?
Yes, no…maybe. I don’t know.
Would you repeat the question?
This is like a recipe for how to bankrupt a company.
I almost made a rookie move and was going ask if you could compare it to a Crown XLS1502 or SMSL AO200/DA-9 and should have watched the whole video first...
I won't let you disaude me from the freya...
Yeah I’m finished with my main system (for now). Just finished it off by getting my bifrost off backorder and it added body to the system I was looking for.
iPad>bifrost2>saga+>Vidar>b&w CM09s2 plus a klipsch sub.
If I go above this stuff it is gonna cost manny thousands so I’m gonna have to stop here for the next few years.
If there was ever a product that lets our puns cut loose, this is it. Nerd Alert!!
I did try to find the comparison vid but could not find it, could you do a best power budget amp for a Wiim ultra please Andy C from uk
I think its a build quality density factor that Schiit has tapped into.
NAC C388 with a vidar into Klipsch Fortes? Probably awesome?!?!?
With Klipsch Fortes, I would probably use the Schiit Aegir instead.
@@jerrysussman9277 can I ask why?
@@t3dewys Klipch speakers in general are high sensitivty speakers (89-96dB), wich equals to more efficient speakers. The Aegir give you 20W RMS per channel (8 Ohms) or 40W RMS per channel (4 Ohms), wich is more than enough for Klipsch in general. The reason Jerry encourages you to use the Aegir instead of the Vidar is because the Aegir is a class-A amp and Vidar is a class-A/B amp. Class-A amps are generally the most sought after in the audiophile world (atleast among those who spend alot of money on equipment). Apologize if I overexplained this, wasn't sure what you knew before :)
@@progqueen6219 thanks. I knew most of that in theory, but wasn’t sure if that equates to real life experience.
What is the 1970s silver+walnut receiver you have there?
Lol. I’m not sure. I have a few. Maybe the Yamaha CR800
@@cheapaudioman The one you see right at the start of the vid. It's on the second shelf right under the Vidar :)
@@ungarlinski7965 you’re going to make me watch it again. Wait for one moment.
That is the Yamaha CR800
@@cheapaudioman Thanks! I like the way it looks. I just watched your vid on it.
The Freya+ is too expensive for me too. What about the Freya S?
Do it. Love my Freya S.
Let's not forget the Chromecast Audio ! I have one connected to a crown amp xls for my large outdoor speakers. Works like a charm. Still can't get why Google killed that device smh.
Topping B200 better?
Be curious to see your review of the Aegir. $100 more but less powerful, Word on the street (and from Schiit) is that it sounds better...
But it’s all a matter of system matching and synergy.
People talk about sound with the Aegir vs Vidar all the time, but not enough about the disadvantage of Class A - the heat it throws. If Class A fits your lifestyle then I’ve no doubt the Aegir is a better amp for you.
How is it in a small room? Like a bedroom?
For you apartment dwellers who have to turn your loud music off around this time, there is a good horror film marathon on the Scared The Bejeezus Out Of Me Channel. The night kicks off with a movie that Chicken Audio Falcon Hawk might have produced:
Poultrygeist: Attack Of The Oval Shaped Unborn Unhatched Zombies. (they roll).. Then at:
11:18pm Attack Of The Killer Lawnchairs
12:12am Attack Of The Killer Refrigerators (I don't know which one came first, refrigerator, lawn chairs or maybe it was even the eggs. But I think you'll be able to follow the plot anyway.
1:16 am. Ghost In The Invisible Bikini
2:29am. Hillbillies In A Haunted House
3:46am. Attack Of The Killer Tomatoes. (I'm glad they are showing that one last. We've all seen that one dozens of times. Yawn.
How will they perform with ESL63 and would it melt?
Link is wrong on the XPA Gen 3. Its the same as the A2. 😉