Marc, this tutorial may be "ancient" but it's EXCELLENT, in every respect. I've been advised to use dye (instead of stain) on a new maple cabinet I need to finish, and I was looking for an detailed, thorough, common-sense introduction to these colorants. Your video is that AND MORE. Thanks so much; I now think I'm ready to tackle the job.
I always value Marc's videos and insight. One of the best woodworking (and finishing) voices on UA-cam. I'm currently listening to the entire catalog of WoodTalk and its a wealth of information. Thank you, Wood Whisperer! 😊
This helped me a lot. I've been researching different dyes to use on a Les Paul guitar kit and went with the General Finishes pre-mixed dye stain. It was a little cheaper than TransTint and I don't have to worry about dye/water ratio. Thank you!
I’m glad I had the opportunity to watch and LEARN a TON of things about dyes and how to use them properly. Being new to wood working I TRULY APPRECIATE the time spent making this video. Your very easy to listen to and you explain things the way I like to learn . So thanks so very much.
Really good explanation. I'm a beginner DIY woodworker and for the last few days, I've been working on learning about stains, dyes, etc. Your explanation and demonstration really helped. Thank you for posting and sharing your knowledge/expertise.
Yeah pretty much. Different types of coloring agents layered on top of one another can certainly bring more depth to the color. But sometimes using a dye as a base coat will shift the color one way or the other. So it can be quite useful. And if you use a water-based dye and you want to use an oil on the surface. I'd recommend skipping the shellac. Shellac will seal the surface preventing your oil from absorbing and curing properly.
I'm really impressed with the level of detail in this video. Was curious to learn more about dyes versus stains and came away with so much more. Consider me subscribed.
I've been thinking about joining the Guild for sometime now. I watch every episode of the Wood Whisperer and this episode has now made me take that step. Another great show...keep it up Mark.
Good video. I could have used this info a few weeks ago when I was using the General finishes stain on a mahogany banjo neck followed by filling the grain for a glass smooth lacquer finish. The grain filler is Crystallac stainable. I had used the older non stainable product, but the Crystalac was pulling the stain out of the wood. None of the products mentioned whether I could seal the wood or not, before using the grain filler. I even called General to ask what was the story with the dye coming up- it was unexpected. You explained it perfectly. They took several days to get back to me with an answer! I ended up using Behlen vinyl sealer on top of the stained bare wood before using the grain filler. It's against my logic but considering the problem I used it with great success. Once the vinyl sealer was on the filler did not solve the stain. I sealed it over the filler to apply the nitrocellulose lacquer. The new problem I have is the stainable crystalac grain filler as it is not drying clear. The old product did, and I Emailed Crystalac directly with no response. I want a good clear grain filler! The difficulties never end.
Wow thank you for making this video, it has helped explain some things to this total noob at woodworking. I'm finishing a desk project for myself and have just ordered the dye yesterday. I've used stains before on projects, but nothing of this scale. You've convinced me to apply it with a spray bottle, and the tip to find a decent one with a fine mist spray is great.
Green dye and a lacquer finish. Transtint is a concentrated dye that comes in green and you can make your own dye solution and apply it to the wood. From there, you can spray one several coats of lacquer. Now this will indeed create a shiny film. But with dye on the surface, a film is a good thing. Non-film finishes won't really protect the color and you will most likely wear through the dye.
Honestly, I don't work much with softwood, but you can certainly get decent results. Always test on scraps and then strategize what you might need to do to solve any potential issues that creep up such as blotching.
You might look into some of the Transtint and General Finishes Water Based Dyes. Both should have a few bright primary colors for you to check out. As for gloves, I'd recommend using them. Most dye solutions also have chemicals in the mix. Not something you really want on your hands.
Mostly. But keep in mind if you are rubbing aggressively, it could still pull up some color. So I like to apply a light coat of diluted varnish with a gentle touch. Once that first coat dries, you can begin to be a bit more aggressive with the surface.
@bernsteine yes and yes. I would definitely pre-raise and sand with 320 and a water bottle can definitely help distribute the dye over a large area quickly. Just spray and wipe the excess.
@griiiiiiiiiin I honestly don't know the chemistry behind that paint. But like any other finish or paint, I'd recommend cleaning the brush with hot soapy water after use. I wouldn't recommend using mineral spirits on the brush at all as that could leave residue behind.
I learned a LOT from this video about dyes. Question: I've just built a DIY bathroom vanity from red oak and now I've come to the part where I'm dreading: ruining it because I couldn't get the finishing right. I'd like to keep it as natural as possible, but use a liming wax to whiten and "highlight" the grain for a weathered oak look. Is there a dye that's really light? Or a way to create a nice even color similar to dye without having to go "full-blown" dyed color? Thanks for your help! Anxious woodworker over here. LOL. New subscriber, too!
@NoblestoftheLIONs that sounds reasonable to me. You can actually save a step if you use something like General Finishes dye. They have some binder in the mix so you can go right from the dye to the gel stain and skip the shellac. As for time periods, you can coat over the dye as soon as its dry to the touch. I'd let the stain sit overnight before top-coating.
Well I'm not really an expert, but i can give an opinion. You can use aerosol cans for this effect and it is really just a matter of blending one color into the other. I have never tried with with spray though. When I have played with this type of coloring I used water-based dyes applied by hand. Fine Woodworking had a great video on their site about it. Google and see if you can't located it. It think "sunburst" was in the title.
I was gifted a table from a dear friend who was a woodworking craftsman before he encountered some health issues. It is a rather old piece. He does not remember precisely what he used to finish the top. The majority of the top is a large inlaid square of wood that he believes was dyed. It is black, and it will spot in a second if it encounters anything wet. A damp cloth will pull color. So as best we can tell, it is a water-based dye. I would like to apply a finish to make it more impervious to water and to avoid having it bleed dye on anything that is placed on it. Based on your video, I would use the Sealcoat dewaxed shellac product. I can either spray or wipe on the first coat. Would you suggest that this be the only finish used, or would you use a different final coat or coats after the shellac, and if so, what would you use? Thank you.
I would love to see staining videos using woods that are a pain in the rear like pine and cedar. Seems a lot easier to demonstrate on woods with a tighter grain unless variability and density. Thanks for a great video 👍
thanks this is excellent. I just put applied a layer of yellow from general. I'd seen another video where a layer of shellac was used between the yellow and then the walnut, for the walnut counter I made and then a top coat to seal it all before polishing. I also have to decide what to do about the worm holes and one knot. Fill with epoxy? or ??? or leave them. Wish I could send you pics of what I've done so far. thanks for all the info your posting
The dyes are nice but challenging to apply. The minwax is easy and very forgiving. Minwax early american is still beautiful. So I went down the dye path. But to get that to work, I needed the extender and the reducer for GF dye stain. At $25 each my effort cost $75. I wouldn't bash minwax, it looks nice and it is easy to work with.
I just wanted to say thanks very much for the video (ok all the videos!!) I went ahead and bought the earlex HVLP sprayer after watching your review now i know how the cave man felt when he discovered the wheel!!! Thanks again Marc for all your insight it has made me a better woodworker i hope to be joining the guild soon.
Well, problems can arise from a lot of different things, especially when staining pine. So it's hard to say. But that finish combination, in theory, should work. You might look into using a wood conditioner before the stain though since blotching will be an issue. Look into Charles Neil's blotch control.
So realizing this video is 8+years old now I'd like to ask a question. I'm refinishing an piece of antique furniture and after removing it's old dead and faded finish I attempted to restain it after applying a cut shellac to even things out. But there are several different species of wood used, and though beautiful...I have several different colors of finish now + a few new veener pieces also) . But rather than completely stripping it again (other than a light sanding to tac), I'm considering a simple seal coat of either lacquer or shellac and starting over . Will using the dye method directly on my new seal coat and then applying my finish coats on that be the way to go? Thanks. Enjoy your work .
This tutorial SAVED ME. Well, it saved my Douglas fir posts and gluelam beams from being ORANGE. I used the General Finishes stain in white as a base to take the orange out and layered Antique Oak on top. The result is a light cool brown that matches all the cabinetry in the room which is Ash. I only tested it so far on some scraps. Any advice on how long to wait between the two step process? Thanks so much!
If you have a blotch-prone wood, you might have to consider pre-sealing. Otherwise, applying the dye directly to the wood will likely give the best results.
You definitely covered the "what" quiet well, and to be fair, I may have just missed the "where and when" parts of the story. but If it is missing then.. when would you choose dye over stain, or, if, when or where would you use both?
Great video! Thank you!! Just out of curiosity, how can you avoid the blotchiness that you pointed out in the middle of the video? I'm trying to stain/dye, some maple and trying to figure out what the best way is to avoid bloctching. Thanks!
I appreciate the detail. Im refinishing fully stripped maple columns that support a porches roof. I tried a white arborcoat semi-solid alkyd linseed oil stain on a test piece sanded in sections with different grits. One section 80 another 220. It failed to penetrate the wood even after sitting for 50 minutes. It just wiped right off with almost no effect. Can dyes be used in an exterior application? I wanted to initially use stain so there would be no peeling paint to scrap and to easy refinishing every 4 years. Would dye meet my needs? Does the shellac sealing coat peel and require sanding before refinishing?
Thanks for making dyes less intimidating. How would you apply a dye if you just want to touch up an old piece? I am reupholstering a 1930's wood arm chair with Aniline dye on the exposed wood arms and legs. For 90 years old, the dye is in great shape! But just needs a touch up on the well worn areas and scratches. It is stripped of upholstery and old padding, so now is the time. Any tips for how to apply so it doesn't look like a splotchy touch up job?
I imagine any number of dye formulations would work for this but I'd probably just go with straight denatured alcohol. As for finish coat, lacquer is a good traditional finish for a musical instrument and should look awesome.
A good tip for those who have ever experienced the problem of the dye, or in some cases the resins of dark exotic woods (purpleheart for example), BLEEDING into the topcoat or a light colored wood adjacent to the dye/dark wood. You can seal the wood with a very thin coat of epoxy (West Systems is excellent), prior to building up the topcoat. The epoxy has not solvents to activate the dye or pull the resins from the dark exotic woods. It also acts as a grain filler, as it is non-evaporative, and self-levels as it cures.
I realize this video is incredibly old, but if you’re reading comments, I’d love to know what you’d recommend for ebonizing red oak and ensuring a prominent grain?
How deep will dye soak into the wood? What is the maximum depth you can achieve? And will wood glue bind on dyed wood when I glue strips of dyed wood together?
@tsalter79 excellent! The guild is much more "project-focused" these days. But the detail and quality is unmatched. Only disadvantage is you have to look at my face more. :) But overall I think you'll really enjoy it.
Great vid. A lot of useful info thanks. Question.. I want to finish a mahogany guitar with open grain but color the grain a slight darker color. Then complete by a wipe on poly satin finish. What would be the process to apply the dye into the grain but not the wood top surface?
This video is quite old so I hope you still see this and answer my questions. I have been researching dyes because I want to use them on guitars. Mainly mahogany and bass wood but also on maple and special tops like flamed and spalted maple. In this video you talk about "Grain Raising" Is that not what I would want to happen with those special tops? Isnt that going to give me that tiger stripe effect on the flamed maple? Or will that still stand out if I water and sand to not get the "grain raising effect"? I watched a guy here on youtube use office depot stamp ink to stain the top of his guitar. He first used black and then used blue. The black was to help get the pattern of the wood to stand out. Would you recommend doing the same thing with regular wood dye????
Excellent instructive video. I'm looking for someone that has a formula to match the Zinsser Amber Shellace on maple using General Finishes dye stain. The Amber turns out a bit too rich and reducing with only water makes it too yellow.
I have a question most likely stupid but here goes, what can I use with clear nitro cellulose lacquer to tint 3 thin coats.. one layer in a flat for a primer, the second in a semi gloss, then third full on gloss or extra glossy brighter top coat? this on top of a clear semi filled/sealed alder guitar body, or tinted filer same color, either granny apple green or peach creme.. looking for a little depth, but not the typical 6 coat glossy clear coat depth.. also do you ever step your colors, base coat, then as you build go brighter and heavier meaning add more tint each coat, or the opposite start heavy then go lighter? I want a very thin yet bright and vibrant finish I can polish up on the wheel, something that will age with a nice color aged patina down the road but not get dull or funky.. I'll be watching more videos for sure.... TY
I have a chair with no finish left on it. I believe it was stored in a very wet / humid place. It now has turned gray, I would like to restore it back to oak / ? Depending on what I find when i reglue it. What will I need to do remove the gray color ?
@The Wood whisper, thank you for the tutorial. I have cherry cabinets that I want to match my room doors too I bought poplar wood doors, so the grain is a little tighter. My oak doors turned out terrible. I have one of our paint, stain stores mixed a close color. My thoughts were to apply with a sprayer and then use a dye to tone it to get closes then clear. Does this sound about right? I do not want the grain to take most of stain so I would water first like you did?
Maybe some of you would have some advice for me. My house has a stained but not sealed wood floor that my elderly dog (passed away) ruined. The color is blotchy and it needs refinished. I had been wanting olympic maximum stain/sealer to add color and make the floor water resistant so future pets/children won't hurt it. We don't have much money so I was happy to find the stain I wanted at ollies half price. I was disappointed to find it was a base with almost no color. Could I use dye to color it? I know I should go buy exactly the stain i want but we can't afford that. Id test on scrap wood first of course.
Thanks for your quick reply. What about the application, do you prefer spraying this mixture or some form of brush or pad? Do you prefer the Transfast or Transtint? Both require precise measuring to reproduce, correct?
I'm trying to reach the espresso kitchen cabinet color on oak cabinets. I've taken everything down to bare wood and pre-raised the grain with a final sand using 220 grit. The plan is to use Wiz van-dyke brown dye and General Finishes java gel stain. The order of operation I am assuming is dye, shellac, gel stain, and polyurethane top coats. Would I be correct in that assumption? Also, what time periods of waiting between each application would you suggest. Great videos, great information!
Great videos, Marc. I was wondering if you can do a wet sand with your first coat of finish - say with 600grit -- over wood you have dyed? would or could it disturb the uniformity of the dye?
Marc, this tutorial may be "ancient" but it's EXCELLENT, in every respect. I've been advised to use dye (instead of stain) on a new maple cabinet I need to finish, and I was looking for an detailed, thorough, common-sense introduction to these colorants. Your video is that AND MORE. Thanks so much; I now think I'm ready to tackle the job.
Same for me. The application part was intimidating and now, I feel prepared
I love finding these time capsule UA-cam videos that were all substance, no clickbait or sponsors, and all had the same royalty free music.
I always value Marc's videos and insight. One of the best woodworking (and finishing) voices on UA-cam. I'm currently listening to the entire catalog of WoodTalk and its a wealth of information. Thank you, Wood Whisperer! 😊
Bang on between industry and newby. Good use of accurate, simple narration.
The depth of information for this video was spot on. Enough to make informed decisions but nothing down in the weeds to make it onerous to digest.
This helped me a lot. I've been researching different dyes to use on a Les Paul guitar kit and went with the General Finishes pre-mixed dye stain. It was a little cheaper than TransTint and I don't have to worry about dye/water ratio. Thank you!
I’m glad I had the opportunity to watch and LEARN a TON of things about dyes and how to use them properly. Being new to wood working I TRULY APPRECIATE the time spent making this video. Your very easy to listen to and you explain things the way I like to learn . So thanks so very much.
Really good explanation. I'm a beginner DIY woodworker and for the last few days, I've been working on learning about stains, dyes, etc. Your explanation and demonstration really helped. Thank you for posting and sharing your knowledge/expertise.
Excellent tutorial. Most informative one I’ve seen on wood dyes. Thank you for that.
Oh my, this is precisely what I needed to explain this application. Thank you
What a fantastic, very helpful intro to dyes! Thank you!
Yeah pretty much. Different types of coloring agents layered on top of one another can certainly bring more depth to the color. But sometimes using a dye as a base coat will shift the color one way or the other. So it can be quite useful. And if you use a water-based dye and you want to use an oil on the surface. I'd recommend skipping the shellac. Shellac will seal the surface preventing your oil from absorbing and curing properly.
Great overview, chock full of practical info and, more importantly, explaining the “why” behind it, how things work. Thank you!
Your vids on finishing are some of the best vids in my opinion.
Glad to see another video. You are a brave soul doing a dye video with a white shirt!
Almost 10 years old but still very relevant and very informative.
I'm really impressed with the level of detail in this video. Was curious to learn more about dyes versus stains and came away with so much more. Consider me subscribed.
I've been thinking about joining the Guild for sometime now. I watch every episode of the Wood Whisperer and this episode has now made me take that step. Another great show...keep it up Mark.
Good video. I could have used this info a few weeks ago when I was using the General finishes stain on a mahogany banjo neck followed by filling the grain for a glass smooth lacquer finish. The grain filler is Crystallac stainable. I had used the older non stainable product, but the Crystalac was pulling the stain out of the wood. None of the products mentioned whether I could seal the wood or not, before using the grain filler. I even called General to ask what was the story with the dye coming up- it was unexpected. You explained it perfectly. They took several days to get back to me with an answer! I ended up using Behlen vinyl sealer on top of the stained bare wood before using the grain filler. It's against my logic but considering the problem I used it with great success. Once the vinyl sealer was on the filler did not solve the stain. I sealed it over the filler to apply the nitrocellulose lacquer. The new problem I have is the stainable crystalac grain filler as it is not drying clear. The old product did, and I Emailed Crystalac directly with no response. I want a good clear grain filler! The difficulties never end.
Wow thank you for making this video, it has helped explain some things to this total noob at woodworking. I'm finishing a desk project for myself and have just ordered the dye yesterday. I've used stains before on projects, but nothing of this scale. You've convinced me to apply it with a spray bottle, and the tip to find a decent one with a fine mist spray is great.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Mark you are a natural at this! Great job once again!
empower= give us the knowledge to make our own decisions. Thank You!
Thank so so much! This video was excellent for a first time user of dyes!
Finally…a clear explanation to wood dyes. Thank you
You really break down the information so we can understand, thank you!!
Green dye and a lacquer finish. Transtint is a concentrated dye that comes in green and you can make your own dye solution and apply it to the wood. From there, you can spray one several coats of lacquer. Now this will indeed create a shiny film. But with dye on the surface, a film is a good thing. Non-film finishes won't really protect the color and you will most likely wear through the dye.
Very good and informative video! Thanks for sharing!!!
Honestly, I don't work much with softwood, but you can certainly get decent results. Always test on scraps and then strategize what you might need to do to solve any potential issues that creep up such as blotching.
You are a true professional at this craft. If you got hired on to a crew of professional painters you would be an all star. It's a dying art.
You might look into some of the Transtint and General Finishes Water Based Dyes. Both should have a few bright primary colors for you to check out. As for gloves, I'd recommend using them. Most dye solutions also have chemicals in the mix. Not something you really want on your hands.
Wow - thank you. This video is exactly what I needed to answer my questions and get me going!
Lots of great information explained in a way I can understand - thank you! ❤️
Mostly. But keep in mind if you are rubbing aggressively, it could still pull up some color. So I like to apply a light coat of diluted varnish with a gentle touch. Once that first coat dries, you can begin to be a bit more aggressive with the surface.
Excellent!!! Thanks so much for just the right amount of information. Also love the William NG T shirt....
@bernsteine yes and yes. I would definitely pre-raise and sand with 320 and a water bottle can definitely help distribute the dye over a large area quickly. Just spray and wipe the excess.
Great video I impressed some fairly accomplished woodworkers with the wet down, raise grain, sand down grain technique you demonstrated. THANKS
@griiiiiiiiiin I honestly don't know the chemistry behind that paint. But like any other finish or paint, I'd recommend cleaning the brush with hot soapy water after use. I wouldn't recommend using mineral spirits on the brush at all as that could leave residue behind.
I learned a LOT from this video about dyes. Question: I've just built a DIY bathroom vanity from red oak and now I've come to the part where I'm dreading: ruining it because I couldn't get the finishing right. I'd like to keep it as natural as possible, but use a liming wax to whiten and "highlight" the grain for a weathered oak look. Is there a dye that's really light? Or a way to create a nice even color similar to dye without having to go "full-blown" dyed color? Thanks for your help! Anxious woodworker over here. LOL. New subscriber, too!
I really love your videos. I learn so much.
Great video Mark. Thank you. I always save your videos for future reference.
@NoblestoftheLIONs that sounds reasonable to me. You can actually save a step if you use something like General Finishes dye. They have some binder in the mix so you can go right from the dye to the gel stain and skip the shellac. As for time periods, you can coat over the dye as soon as its dry to the touch. I'd let the stain sit overnight before top-coating.
Well I'm not really an expert, but i can give an opinion. You can use aerosol cans for this effect and it is really just a matter of blending one color into the other. I have never tried with with spray though. When I have played with this type of coloring I used water-based dyes applied by hand. Fine Woodworking had a great video on their site about it. Google and see if you can't located it. It think "sunburst" was in the title.
@Mopardude awesome man! Thanks. Glad you like them!
@MrLeonard55 Well, you can always watch it multiple times. Its always here for your viewing pleasure.
I was gifted a table from a dear friend who was a woodworking craftsman before he encountered some health issues. It is a rather old piece. He does not remember precisely what he used to finish the top. The majority of the top is a large inlaid square of wood that he believes was dyed. It is black, and it will spot in a second if it encounters anything wet. A damp cloth will pull color. So as best we can tell, it is a water-based dye. I would like to apply a finish to make it more impervious to water and to avoid having it bleed dye on anything that is placed on it. Based on your video, I would use the Sealcoat dewaxed shellac product. I can either spray or wipe on the first coat. Would you suggest that this be the only finish used, or would you use a different final coat or coats after the shellac, and if so, what would you use? Thank you.
fantastic and deeply infomative. subscribed!
I would love to see staining videos using woods that are a pain in the rear like pine and cedar. Seems a lot easier to demonstrate on woods with a tighter grain unless variability and density.
Thanks for a great video 👍
thanks this is excellent. I just put applied a layer of yellow from general. I'd seen another video where a layer of shellac was used between the yellow and then the walnut, for the walnut counter I made and then a top coat to seal it all before polishing. I also have to decide what to do about the worm holes and one knot. Fill with epoxy? or ??? or leave them. Wish I could send you pics of what I've done so far. thanks for all the info your posting
I like to raise the grain with denatured alcohol. It costs more but swells the grain and dries really fast. Thanks for the videos!
Very useful video, thank you.
The dyes are nice but challenging to apply. The minwax is easy and very forgiving. Minwax early american is still beautiful. So I went down the dye path. But to get that to work, I needed the extender and the reducer for GF dye stain. At $25 each my effort cost $75. I wouldn't bash minwax, it looks nice and it is easy to work with.
I just wanted to say thanks very much for the video (ok all the videos!!) I went ahead and bought the earlex HVLP sprayer after watching your review now i know how the cave man felt when he discovered the wheel!!! Thanks again Marc for all your insight it has made me a better woodworker i hope to be joining the guild soon.
Great video, thank you!
I really wanted to see a video on different ways to apply transtint!!!
@aDotFromTheFuture To me, a stain is a generic term for anything we use to color wood. And that can be a dye, a pigment, or a combination of the two.
Great Video...Can you spray lacquer sealer over the General Finishes Dye - then top coat with lacquer?
Well, problems can arise from a lot of different things, especially when staining pine. So it's hard to say. But that finish combination, in theory, should work. You might look into using a wood conditioner before the stain though since blotching will be an issue. Look into Charles Neil's blotch control.
Just wow ❤ thank you so much 🙏🏼
Thanks for all the helpful info!
So realizing this video is 8+years old now I'd like to ask a question. I'm refinishing an piece of antique furniture and after removing it's old dead and faded finish I attempted to restain it after applying a cut shellac to even things out. But there are several different species of wood used, and though beautiful...I have several different colors of finish now + a few new veener pieces also) . But rather than completely stripping it again (other than a light sanding to tac), I'm considering a simple seal coat of either lacquer or shellac and starting over . Will using the dye method directly on my new seal coat and then applying my finish coats on that be the way to go? Thanks. Enjoy your work .
This tutorial SAVED ME. Well, it saved my Douglas fir posts and gluelam beams from being ORANGE. I used the General Finishes stain in white as a base to take the orange out and layered Antique Oak on top. The result is a light cool brown that matches all the cabinetry in the room which is Ash. I only tested it so far on some scraps. Any advice on how long to wait between the two step process? Thanks so much!
If you have a blotch-prone wood, you might have to consider pre-sealing. Otherwise, applying the dye directly to the wood will likely give the best results.
@fenderpaman16 Yup. They might apply the dye by spraying, but I have done it by hand in the past and its a fun process.
Oh jeese this is an oldie but a goodie.
Great video. Thanks
You definitely covered the "what" quiet well, and to be fair, I may have just missed the "where and when" parts of the story. but If it is missing then.. when would you choose dye over stain, or, if, when or where would you use both?
Great video! Thank you!! Just out of curiosity, how can you avoid the blotchiness that you pointed out in the middle of the video? I'm trying to stain/dye, some maple and trying to figure out what the best way is to avoid bloctching. Thanks!
I am wondering the same thing.
be a bit artistic and add less dye to the softer parts and more to the lighter parts.
Maybe wood conditioner?
I appreciate the detail. Im refinishing fully stripped maple columns that support a porches roof. I tried a white arborcoat semi-solid alkyd linseed oil stain on a test piece sanded in sections with different grits. One section 80 another 220. It failed to penetrate the wood even after sitting for 50 minutes. It just wiped right off with almost no effect.
Can dyes be used in an exterior application? I wanted to initially use stain so there would be no peeling paint to scrap and to easy refinishing every 4 years. Would dye meet my needs? Does the shellac sealing coat peel and require sanding before refinishing?
Baby Marc is adorable
Thanks for making dyes less intimidating. How would you apply a dye if you just want to touch up an old piece? I am reupholstering a 1930's wood arm chair with Aniline dye on the exposed wood arms and legs. For 90 years old, the dye is in great shape! But just needs a touch up on the well worn areas and scratches. It is stripped of upholstery and old padding, so now is the time. Any tips for how to apply so it doesn't look like a splotchy touch up job?
Great video. What final finish would you recommend for dyed wood to give a satin finish? Wax? Tung Oil?
+The Wood Whisperer does Keda dye (aniline dye I think) fade over time? What causes dyes to fade? Will dyes still fade if you seal it with tru oil?
Is that the old assembly table you are working on Mark?
This guy is awesome! Just the facts Ma'am!
I imagine any number of dye formulations would work for this but I'd probably just go with straight denatured alcohol. As for finish coat, lacquer is a good traditional finish for a musical instrument and should look awesome.
A good tip for those who have ever experienced the problem of the dye, or in some cases the resins of dark exotic woods (purpleheart for example), BLEEDING into the topcoat or a light colored wood adjacent to the dye/dark wood. You can seal the wood with a very thin coat of epoxy (West Systems is excellent), prior to building up the topcoat. The epoxy has not solvents to activate the dye or pull the resins from the dark exotic woods. It also acts as a grain filler, as it is non-evaporative, and self-levels as it cures.
I realize this video is incredibly old, but if you’re reading comments, I’d love to know what you’d recommend for ebonizing red oak and ensuring a prominent grain?
Great video, thank you. A question, can I apply an oil based clear coat directly to a Transtint or Transfast finish? Thanks
@trumpet190 Seriously? That's awesome! Good luck!
Thanks for a very informative video! Are Transtint and General Finishes Dye Stain safe for children toys (or for use in the kitchen)?
How deep will dye soak into the wood? What is the maximum depth you can achieve? And will wood glue bind on dyed wood when I glue strips of dyed wood together?
Thank you, Marc!
Can I get a cheat sheet!? Lots of good info, thank you!
@tsalter79 excellent! The guild is much more "project-focused" these days. But the detail and quality is unmatched. Only disadvantage is you have to look at my face more. :) But overall I think you'll really enjoy it.
If you wanted to use dye on a wood entry door could you recommend a top coat that will hold up to the elements?
Great video, thank you for the info. Im starting to use TransTint for the time...
Great vid. A lot of useful info thanks. Question.. I want to finish a mahogany guitar with open grain but color the grain a slight darker color. Then complete by a wipe on poly satin finish. What would be the process to apply the dye into the grain but not the wood top surface?
This video is quite old so I hope you still see this and answer my questions. I have been researching dyes because I want to use them on guitars. Mainly mahogany and bass wood but also on maple and special tops like flamed and spalted maple. In this video you talk about "Grain Raising" Is that not what I would want to happen with those special tops? Isnt that going to give me that tiger stripe effect on the flamed maple? Or will that still stand out if I water and sand to not get the "grain raising effect"? I watched a guy here on youtube use office depot stamp ink to stain the top of his guitar. He first used black and then used blue. The black was to help get the pattern of the wood to stand out. Would you recommend doing the same thing with regular wood dye????
Excellent instructive video. I'm looking for someone that has a formula to match the Zinsser Amber Shellace on maple using General Finishes dye stain. The Amber turns out a bit too rich and reducing with only water makes it too yellow.
I have a question most likely stupid but here goes, what can I use with clear nitro cellulose lacquer to tint 3 thin coats.. one layer in a flat for a primer, the second in a semi gloss, then third full on gloss or extra glossy brighter top coat? this on top of a clear semi filled/sealed alder guitar body, or tinted filer same color, either granny apple green or peach creme.. looking for a little depth, but not the typical 6 coat glossy clear coat depth..
also do you ever step your colors, base coat, then as you build go brighter and heavier meaning add more tint each coat, or the opposite start heavy then go lighter? I want a very thin yet bright and vibrant finish I can polish up on the wheel, something that will age with a nice color aged patina down the road but not get dull or funky.. I'll be watching more videos for sure.... TY
Great video, thanks. One question please, can I use Non dewaxed shellac?
I have a chair with no finish left on it. I believe it was stored in a very wet / humid place. It now has turned gray, I would like to restore it back to oak / ? Depending on what I find when i reglue it. What will I need to do remove the gray color ?
@The Wood whisper, thank you for the tutorial. I have cherry cabinets that I want to match my room doors too I bought poplar wood doors, so the grain is a little tighter. My oak doors turned out terrible. I have one of our paint, stain stores mixed a close color. My thoughts were to apply with a sprayer and then use a dye to tone it to get closes then clear. Does this sound about right? I do not want the grain to take most of stain so I would water first like you did?
Maybe some of you would have some advice for me. My house has a stained but not sealed wood floor that my elderly dog (passed away) ruined. The color is blotchy and it needs refinished. I had been wanting olympic maximum stain/sealer to add color and make the floor water resistant so future pets/children won't hurt it. We don't have much money so I was happy to find the stain I wanted at ollies half price. I was disappointed to find it was a base with almost no color. Could I use dye to color it? I know I should go buy exactly the stain i want but we can't afford that. Id test on scrap wood first of course.
Can this be added to a bowl and and blanks added to it and then put into a pressure pot to force the color deeper into the wood?
Thanks for your quick reply. What about the application, do you prefer spraying this mixture or some form of brush or pad? Do you prefer the Transfast or Transtint? Both require precise measuring to reproduce, correct?
I'm trying to reach the espresso kitchen cabinet color on oak cabinets. I've taken everything down to bare wood and pre-raised the grain with a final sand using 220 grit. The plan is to use Wiz van-dyke brown dye and General Finishes java gel stain. The order of operation I am assuming is dye, shellac, gel stain, and polyurethane top coats. Would I be correct in that assumption? Also, what time periods of waiting between each application would you suggest. Great videos, great information!
Great videos, Marc. I was wondering if you can do a wet sand with your first coat of finish - say with 600grit -- over wood you have dyed? would or could it disturb the uniformity of the dye?
Cool video, nicely done!
So how would you go about preventing blotching on birch when using water based dyes? Pre condition? Thanks