Rustoleum Rock Solid Floor Coating Review
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- Опубліковано 26 лют 2018
- In this video we document our installation of the Rust-Oleum Rocksolid floor coating system. We go over how it lays down, what it looks like when finished, how it comapres to the Rustoleum epoxyshield floor coating, and if it covers the advertised square footage.
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Floor isn’t prepped at all. How’s it supposed to bond and cure evenly
Your floor prep is lacking...don't blame the product
The result looks pretty good...props to the guy who did the job since he was the only one video working 👍
Reminds me of dad constantly saying “measure twice, cut once”. Great video. I learned to spend extra time prepping. Tape off baseboards or include a way to get close to baseboards. Perhaps paint baseboard in area first. Measure off with chalk recommended 4x6 size to paint incrementally. Great video.
I appreciate the video, and the challenges you faced. IMHO, many of the issues you experienced (and others I've seen and read) are related to the prep when it comes to existing shop concrete. Prep really needs to go to actually grinding the concrete. I'm about to do my daughters garage (new house), so back reviewing experiences of others. My own experience has been with my new home (3 years ago) and applied immediately upon moving in (new concrete about 8 weeks aged from being laid). Took great care cleaning and etching with the components in the kit(s). Mine was a 3 car garage, so used 2 - 2 1/2 car kits, per issues I saw in the comments about coverage. Also bought additional flakes for the same reason. Used quality brushes and rollers and took extra care mixing the pouches based on comments but still experiences some minor discoloration. Would highly recommend using the flakes as they cover any imperfections. Experience has been positive over the 3 years, mostly still looks good, except for the front part(South facing) of the garage that get exposed to sunlight when the doors are open. You'll see that they warn of UV on the box so pay attention and keep the sunlight off the epoxy as best you can.
I did my floor and came out awesome..it’s all about the floor prep.
Hi guys! Your video is awesome! It's videos like this that make a regular person like me better at things we wanna do ourselves. Please do not be discouraged. I, for one, loved it. I will not let your garage floor sacrifice be in vain lol. I will learn from you. Thank you for posting :)
Thanks!
The issue was your prep. Rock solid requires pretty much a perfect surface area to work on. It's always not like latex paint where you can just put more layers on and fix it, unfortunately.
cheers for the video guys, i guess the main thing is to take more time with preparation, really helpful for me with my domestic garage project, thank you
Thanks Guys. Very fair review and great video. Old floors with a lot of adhesive, suck.
Thanks... all we can do is be honest about it and let people come to their own conclusions. And you sure are right about the floors, that adhesive was AWFUL!
Thanks for ur honesty. Peace brother!
Thanks for sharing this video and results from your experience. I am going to do my garage floor, I was looking into this product. I am now looking into other options. I will add that my next door neighbor had his done, it turned out crappy. But I thought it was because of how he put it down and who he had do it. Guess it is the product.
Vincent Washington I have nothing but great things to say about these product guys prep and you will be ok and one car garage buy the 2 1/2 garage
Mixing wasn’t right The floor was still not clean enough. Grinding the floor would give excellent finish.
I just diamond ground my garage floor , etched it and pressure washed everything. Waiting one week to paint and will follow instructions!
Good too see Dana white doing a review.
I wish I had Dana’s money lol
Boost Brothers Garage yeah, you wouldn’t be painting your own garage floor like we are. Lol 😂
Boost Brothers Garage just a question, how many square metres in the two and a half pack?
46.5
Lol good one
Thanks for doing this, I'm getting ready to do my 2.5 garage and I have not found what I want yet
Guys, I wasn't surprised about the result that you got. I was really going to be kicking myself if it had gone very well. The reason being that the amount of prep work that i have done to get my floor ready, I would have said that was waste of time but I kind of see the reason why the prep work is very very important.
Hope you do a better job next time.
Thanks for the heads up!
Great video for the typical guy. Please do a follow up every year for a while. Everyone wants to know how this will wear out over time.
Thanks! Good idea!
Thanks for the honest feedback. I think when I do this I will allow like 2 weeks to dry before setting a single footprint in it. No reason to rush it especially if it can cause those issues you showed.
You guys are funny. You wing it without reading instructions, but as long as you like it. Great video fellows!
Hahaha, thanks! We did read the instructions but we really should have ground the floors down first.
@@BoostBrothersGarage true, you had fun and that counts for something too.
Great review dudes!!
Thanks buddy!
Nice job Cailou!
Great vid guys
Thanks Sean!
So I have used this before on a new garage floor and old floor. I found on the new floor it worked beautifuly. However on the old floor to get the same results you have to grind the top layer of concrete off prior to etching. Hope that helps. Keep up the great work guys! Love the channel!
Thanks for the input Charles! Grinding the concrete down doesn't sound like much fun. Hindsight 20/20 we should have just kept the carpet haha!
Yeah it was absolutely miserable! Haha Either way epoxy is game changing. Hope you enjoy it. I know it made clean up amazing in my garage
That's the rub right? A whole lot of time and effort now to make things so much nicer moving forward!
It's the product. I had the same issue. I purchase two pack since there was a deal. The first batch rolled on like crap. It took 6 month for it to fully cure. I even waited almost a month before walking on it because it was still tacky. I gave up as I needed my garage back. So now I have section with dirt epoxy. The second batch came out perfect. Dont bothered reaching out to manufacturers because you will not hear back from them.
That’s really unfortunate... It really sucks because the areas that worked turned out great, we just lacked consistency similar to yourself.
Preparation is the key to the final work's product. Seems like these guys did not remove all the adhesive off the floor prior to putting on the epoxy coating. Not only that, they plan on using both epoxy packs. Why not mix both together. You'll get a much more uniform mixture. This way there won't be any color variations when applying it on the garage floor. That's my 2 cent.
Can’t really argue with that!
This is probably one of the best videos out there. I appreciate the fact that you guys are normal like me and the process you stepped though helped me with what I may have missed or missing as I start my own project. So kudos to a real video where us regular joe's don't have all the knowledge, fancy diamond grinders and equipment.
Appreciate that! There have been tons of people telling us we are idiots, did it wrong etc. All we did was follow the instructions and document the project. Good luck with your project!
@@BoostBrothersGarage you guys are great. What people say you did wrong - I consider a mistake and how I learned. I finished 2 of my 3 bays and it turned out freaking awesome!!!
I don't know how to post a pic here but I did two weeks of washing, scrubbing and etching -TWICE and that is where the love has to go. The epoxy took a couple of hours and 48 hours later clear coated with extra anti-skid additive. I got friends calling me to do theirs! Thanks Guys!
@@omboy2009 That's awesome! We will certainly spend more time on prep next time. Thanks for the update!
I haven't done my garage yet, so not speaking from experience. However, based on videos I have seen a diamond grind of the floor instead of the etch might have turn out better results. Especially since the carpet removal left adhesive on the floor. Thanks for the video though. The more info I have on the product will help me.
coverage was my biggest issue. Bought the 2 car pack..got about 1.5 out of it. Had to but another pack. Mine was approx 90% dry 12 hrs later, some tacky spots..but not bad.
My dad had his garage floor done in 2008. Had it washed/degreased,, then filled and ground down entire garage like 1/8” , then applied two coats of epoxy. Has held up so far since. And still no flaking. Just had the same thing done. Think it would help a lot if it was ground down during prep.
Guys...the floor looks nice enough. Glad u guys saved some money and got the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I wouldn't worry about the color differences and the imperfections. I mean, it's a garage.
Thanks James, that’s kind of my thoughts right now too. Not ideal, but we saved a boatload of money and it’s better than carpet!
I'll be interested to see how this holds up. I've been thinking about doing this myself, and if this stuff ends up working out I might give it a shot.
Yeah, we are interested for that as well. This stuff (rock solid) is SUPPOSED to hold up a lot better than the epoxy shield line. But, with our floor prep potentially lacking (and man we listed our ass) we shall see
I just used it. 1. I sanded down the old 5 year old Rustoleum Epoxy Shield ( which was never primed and the concrete sucked up the paint.) . 2.This time I Cleaned the floor. 3. *Primed with Rustoleum Recoat Primer. 4. Recoated with Rustoleum RockSolid . Came out Perfect..... Remember FLOOR PREP IS MOST IMPORTANT.....As far as being still tacky you probally did't mix well enough is my guess.
I have done a lot of garages with epoxy shield and never had any problem, color and dry time wise, durability I’m not sure if you will keep car parked long period may peel off.
I REALLY appreciate the fact that you showed that it didn't work quite as well as you were hoping.
Do you have a followup video, from say 2 months later to show how it is holding up (as well as to see if Rustoleum had any advice for you)?
Of course! We always try to be completely transparent with product reviews.
I do not have a follow up video yet, although I have been thinking about doing one.
The floor is holding up well where the product behaved like it should have. The only issue I’ve had with durability is some fuel spilled on it and sat overnight and it bubbled up. Where the product didn’t cure correctly looks even worse now!
Boost Brothers Garage it a low end poly. To get proper chem resistance you would have to get with their commercial company called citadel (not sure I spelled that proper). Or just use a better product for epoxy 2 u or Arizona polymers flooring.
Roll with your hands
Morning, muriatic acid is the proper way to prep concrete for epoxy
Thanks guys! I noticed you taped off each area as you went. Can we do one section per day or even skip a day, and then expect the product to meld seamlessly without an obvious line???? Thanks
What do you use for the top coat if you were to use the flakes?
I have a three car garage, then I may be need two packs, but the many comments about color not matching does bother me. Can I mix two packs together to get consistent color?
It's pretty incredible how well that product covered that highly questionable surface!
During the into when you were showing the floor after having taken up the carpet and removed the the adhesive, I was thinking that you might be heading for some trouble.
Overall, your floor looks so much better after applying the product.
I think the inconsistency with the color and the curing, are both issues that resulted from not having mixed up the product thoroughly enough.
By this time, you guys have probably addressed the trouble spots and applied a second coat. I'll bet your floor looks great, now.
It definitely covered well, and where it cured properly it has held up well. The weird thing is we had the biggest issues where it seemed like the floor was cleanest. I think for someone with virgin floors it’s a great DIY product. For people that have heavily stained or contaminated floors I would suggest going the professional route, or at least have the floors ground down first.
Boost Brothers Garage
Yes, I definitely agree!
Right, prepped the heck on this a couple years it was flaking off
Did you do anything to fix it? Our contractor used same product and has messed up so looking for suggestions on how we can fix the situation of uneven color and uncured epoxy in few spots
Curious on the drying issue... did you talk to the company? I just applied the product in my garage and was doing research on when is safe to apply the clear coat... also the clear coat says 3 days, but if the other layer didn't dry, then I'm hesitant on when would be the best to drive on my garage... thanks!! great review btw :)
Can anybody help me with a professional opinion on this? I did my garage floor with sikagard 62. It was a horrendous mess, but seems to have come out really well. It was also a lot more - a ton more-than rust oleum at Home Depot. Was it worth it? Will it last longer? It looks incredible.
You should have rented a floor grinder from home depot. The acid etch will not remove the black adhesive you still have left on the floor. It may look good now, but will eventually fail due to adhesion.
We did rent a buffer with a carbide blade and it didn’t touch the black adhesive. After lots of heavy duty chemical adhesive remover we were getting somewhere, but we thought we were in the clear. Guess not
you need a one with a diamond blade for grinding concrete i had to use 1 when i did a renovation where we pulled up old tiles with heaps of glue under them and to get the floor level again and ready for the new floor we had to grind it all off. you can use a smaller version that is made for a grinder but the discs are called honing discs and they are very expensive
Will you need a concrete grinder to remove a bad paint job and an old stained job underneath the bad paint job?
In the coating industry, we say a good coating is 30% on paint itself, 70% on application. Your surface preparation is not enough, maybe consider concrete primers. Your preparation conditions are also unknown, for water based coating, the moisture in the room decides the drying of the film..maybe take that into consideration
@@asroma5216 Awesome channel name! And a sensible comment. Thumbs up!
I’m thinking about trying this hopefully it goes well
I will say that beyond the initial problems we had, it seems to be holding up well. My only advice is spend as much time as possible on prep, and make sure everything is mixed as well as possible.
Boost Brothers Garage think another coat would bring it to perfect?
If it sticks to itself, yes. My only concern would be it adhering. It would be an interesting experiment!
Appreciate the video fellas. My heart breaks for ya on the outcome but, as always, you'll find a way through. Not to be crappy in any way, but this does make me feel better about paying the $4/ft I did a couple of months back. I would suggest to others that these big box products seem to represent a false economy unless you align your expectations correctly. I've had one of these correctly installed in a prior home and it didn't hold up well at all. The commercial 3-layer coatings are the way to go - I did get quotes for very these basic applications as low as $2.50 thru Thumbtack (in the Phoenix area). While it's not always true that "you get what you pay for", in this case my experience says you do. Chin up lads - you'll figure it out.
Thanks! We agree that the commercial coatings are the way to go. We took a chance and it didn’t turn out as we hoped. BUT, we are still better off than we were. One of these days hopefully we can swing a REAL floor coating. Appreciate the support!
D Wray's Garage fgvz y
How does this stuff hold up to gas, motor oil, floor jack rolling around on it, and also welding ?
It has held up well to all of that except the gas. We had a fuel talk leak a bit and it bubbled up the coating. Granted we don’t go to the shop every single day and that fuel day there for a few days so it’s not a great test.
Is this stuff low VOC or does it have a lot of odor?
I have epoxyed 3 shop floors in my day about to do #4 and the last
I won’t do another myself unless it’s virgin concrete or I have someone else come in a blast it first. Good luck on your project!
Why last?
Mix better beat that bag add some flakes too very nice detailed video
Which one is good, rustoleum rock solid or rustoleum epoxy shield
Good job guys. I wouldn’t worry about the small imperfection, obviously the more coats the better to get a nice even flat surface. I always tell my self that the prep has to be done perfectly so that the epoxy can last it’s time and Obviously look great. Thank you for the info on the product it was very helpful.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
You should use a concrete grinder to prep the floor before you do your degrease
Re colour variations.. I have noticed that unlike with paint, there is only very small window of time to do a touch up with the roller. If you don’t touch up within just a few minutes after application in an area, you can get that variation in colour and the touch up will be obvious.
Good to know, thanks!
Thanks for this video. I’m doing this tomorrow. I’ve been prepping for two days. I’d sure like to have seen y’all apply the decorative chips. How is the floor holding up?
In the areas where it went down and cured properly it’s holding up well. The comment section on this video has a TON of tips on how to do it better than we did. Might be useful to read some before tackling the project. Good luck!
Man! I would’ve never used that material. But lesson learned. Send me a message we are a Epoxy Distributor out of Mesa, AZ we can help out with any questions other viewers have and guide you through the right direction. Clear Coat The World With Urethane! 😎
It’s weird their garage costing doesn’t go as far but the basement stuff it pretty spot on sqft wise
Appreciate the video! It helped me in what NOT to do! Fortunately i only have a 2 car garage. what i did first was to use a strong degreaser on my bare concrete floor. Second was too do an acid etching on the floor so as to have the surface slightly roughed up and a surface for the product to actually bite into and bond with the floor. I gave the product almost 5 days to completely dry and cure. 3 months later no hot tire pick-up, no pealing, NO ISSUES! I believe your lack of preparing the surface, is your issues.
Any time!
Hey boost brothers wat kind of roller did u use ?
The foam roller designed for this stuff, Rustoleum part number 45210
I have a new floor and it has been down now for 8 wks did the etching and scrubbed the concrete with a brush and rinsed the floor 7 times let dry for two weeks i had purchased 2 kits 2.5 garage kits followed the instructions to the t i was using the sprinkles and when i put the sprinkles on i got like a fish eye on another section i let dry a little longer and no fish eye you have to work fast because this stuff gets real stickey real fast not real happy with the product i really do not know what i could have done different
I'll never have a garage floor again that isn't top-coated in some way. It just makes such a huge difference. I used polyaspartic urea coating for my current garage and some sort of polyurethane thing in my old garage. Polyurethane is cheap, but stinks for days and wears a lot faster. In my basement utility room, I used the same Rust-Oleum stuff you did. It turned out perfect and has held up fairly well over 8 years, but that floor had never been exposed to any other types of chemicals. As with any painting job, surface prep is 99% of the outcome.
FYI - This is not a complaint, but just a friendly observation. Your videos would look 10x more professional if you used a tripod to hold your camera, smartphone, or whatever you film with.
Thanks for all the info!
As for the tripod, it really is personal preference. We have done it both ways and get feedback on both sides of the fence. Regardless, we appreciate your feedback, always looking to improve our content quality!
I had the same problems you had with color variation and adhesion. I did extensive site preparation and sanding prior to application.
I used the cheaper Rustoleum product (HomeDepot kit) in 2 different homes. The 1st house was new construction, and looked beautiful (no hot tire peel) for 7 years. The 2nd house was almost 40 years old, and started hot tire peel within 4 months. In my experience, if you're not inheriting super-clean concrete, you MUST spend money/time/sweat to clean/prep it for a desirable outcome. (Or pay the extra $ for a pro install/product/warranty.) In short, you pay one way or another.
Yeah, there is a good chance our prep wasn't up to snuff. We spent hours and hours stripping the floor, cleaning it, etching it (twice!) and cleaning it some more.
I'm actually OK with the few areas where it "fisheyed", but the discoloration and tackiness after multiple days seems to be a product issue. That or we didn't mix it well enough.
Boost Brothers Garage - It sure sounds like you prepped alot! I only had enough time to power wash & sweep the 2nd time, which explains the poor outcome I'm living with now. I gave it 2 days for foot traffic, 5 days for cars.
Anyway, did you consider your recent ambient temp & humidity? They print some tolerances in the instructions. I imagine it's been very cold in your area, & it effects curing.
It’s actually been decent lately, and definitely 50+ in the shop. I’m chalking it up to poor mixing on our part. That’s the only way I can explain 90% of floor being rock hard after 12 hours and the rest having issues. It wasn’t even where we want extra heavy. Weird deal
@@JerrySalamante uh
Can you guys do an update video on the floor? Would like to know how well it hold up.
I don’t see why not!
Awesome. Exited you guys are back.
Good demonstration and explanation. I'm trying to decide on what product to buy. Rust-Oleum have another one called Professional that's supposed to be better. I'll look at that one. And thanks for a straight forward video that wasn't tainted with shitty music.
Great unbiased review guys. Question... did you guys need to buy anything else but the kit itself, such as the product to clean and etch the floor? If so, what did you use? Thanks!
Thanks! The kit came with the supplies to etch the floor. We had to do a ton of other prep due to the carpet adhesive. If your concrete is bare you shouldn’t need to buy anything else if I remember correctly.
@@BoostBrothersGarage Thank you so much for the reply. Man, I been doing so much research on this product and I was set to buy it, but Im hearing tons of bad things. Mostly the color coming out in two different shades of grey and it not covering enough. Seems like you guys had some of these issues as well, but ultimately would you say your happy or would you go the pro route next time or use another product?
We did have some color issues, but I don’t think it would have been a problem if we would have used the color chips. The only way I would use this product again is if the concrete I was coating was in VERY good shape, and even then I would be tempted to grind it or blast it. I think the results are all in the prep and how the base concrete is. I think the product performed decent considering the odds we threw at it, all things considered.
@@BoostBrothersGarage I just took a read through all the past comments and I'm so sorry I made you repeat yourself lol. Looks like a thousand people pretty much either asked the same question or had something smart to say about your application and why it went wrong. From what I gathered, some think if you grind the floor, mix all bags together in a bucket with drill and add two coats with chips and a top coat it should come out better? I guess I have some more thinking to do on whether its better to go DIY or save up and have a pro do it? Again, I appreciate your time and I think thats really cool of you that you responded back to everyone, even when it was the same question over and over.
No worries! If you did that I think you would get professional results. However, you will have over $1k in a standard 2 car garage and a TON of time and energy. Guess it just depends on how much your time is worth!
The Rust-Oleum Rocksolid floor coating system did not work for me. Used it two different times, two different projects!
ricky perry it’s trash. I would call a local concrete supply company and see what they have in stock for non professional installs.
Most the stuff they have will be a product you need to work extremely fast or you have tons of waste.
Yo can you put this outside on driveway? Will it last in the rain?
Rain won’t be an issue, but you really need a smooth surface and I doubt it would stick to asphalt
Consider doing a 2nd coat? I've always heard people doing two coats of epoxy -- grant it, I think you have to do it within a certain amount of time of the first coat being applied
I have considered it... it’s actually holding up well, and besides those original issues there hasn’t been anything else pop up. I think the residual carpet adhesive screwed us.
I hired someone to epoxy my garage floor. They steered me away from the newer 'rocksolid' version of Rustoleum to the EpoxyShield. Apparently there were several runs of this Rocksolid product that had issues(according to the manufacterer). The Epoxyshield went on great and is holding up great after a few years.
I want to use this for my basement floor. The floor was painted more than 25 years ago by the prior owner. Do you think this will work for a basement if I grind off the paint first? Thanks!
As long as you bring the paint off it should be fine. I would just make sure to have as clean of a surface as possible!
Don't "Dry" roll the coating, that "whooshing" of the roller means it's dry, and all you are doing is picking up
the paint you just put down. pour the first ribbon "straight" 4-6 inches wide 2 feet from the wall. Not (4 feet from it 2 inches wide in a "S" pattern).
You have to step the coating across the floor, not "pull" it. Also, I have found that strong acid washes will weaken the top layer of the concrete, causing
it to flake off over time. So, I have used a very good concrete primer like Perma-Crete by PPG after a thorough cleaning. It is a tintable
primer (that you can have tinted to match your coating). It will seal in any imperfections that could bleed back through the coating at a later date,
and also promote excellent adhesion.
I bought the mocha color. The second box was way way darker than the first. I’m pissed
You have to mix each side of the bag separately before you break the seal and mix them. This may explain the tackiness issue.
Hey, thanks for chiming in. We did mix each side first, and it shows it in the video although it is brief.
I'm surprised you got the results you did, did you read the prep instructions at all??
Sure did, and followed them!
Thanks for lesson in flooring.... why does everyone seem to tip toe around the numbers? How much was the quote? what is that per square foot? How much is the Rust-Oleum product? Keep up the great work.
We were quoted around $4 a square foot for the professionals. The Rustoleum kit is $189.99 and covers roughly 500 sq ft, so $0.38 sq ft plus sweat equity. If we didn't have to mess with the carpet adhesive it would have been the $189.99 (well, x2, we bought 2 kits and used 1.5) plus degreaser and thats it. We probably spent $500 in adhesive remover, renting a floor buffer w/ a carbide cutting bit (which didn't work) and scrapers.
Just put another coat down and it'll look good
Most pro videos show that using the burst mix Method is is highly ineffective. They highly suggest throughly mixing via mechanical means with a power drill. I’m guessing the mixing method in this video also contributed to the uneven coloration. Also keep in mind a pro kit will include a primer coat, to even out base color, for a more congruous finish color, as well as sealing the concrete substrate (to prevent off gassing air bubbles in your new epoxy, as part of the chemical reaction, to the chemical bond), to prevent the air bubbles that were evident in this flooring, but not mentioned. A pro kit will have the two part epoxy in clear, with a color additive, pre measured for accurate color. A pro kit will also include a clear top coat. A pro kit will cost 4 to 5 times as much, and it will also look professional when properly completed. Don’t expect to get $3000 results for a few hundred dollars. Pro results cost about 2 times materials. So if you want a $3k floor on a DIY budget, it’ll be $1200-$1500.
You guys prepped the floor?
Not well enough! Should have rented a grinder.
That sucks. I personally reckon those flakes could have helped in covering up the imperfections
Agreed, we just really liked the look of it without the flake. Live and learn!
Need the rented floor grinder. That floor is so not ready for epoxy
Can you not grind down the bad areas and redo just those sections?
I would think so, although we have just let it be at this point. The areas that worked well have held up and are easy to clean.
I have used this product in multiple rooms. you did not prep your surface well. In addition, you did not follow instructions on how to lay the paint. He did not do WN pattern. Very important to keep it even. If the floor underneath is dark you do have to either put a base out on or put it on thicker. I used the black Polycuramine. Works way better. If it did not cure you did not mix it correctly. He did not break up lumps properly before breaking the bag. you have to knead it like dough. Once you break package you do not use a roller to mix, you have to use your hands to make sure you break up all lumps and shake slowly. You got air bubbles too. thats from overstating. Definitely cal Rust-Oleum. They are very helpful.
That product never going to dry if you don’t mix well
It will eventually. 30 days should be good
My OCD would be kicking in over the discoloration too, but it's a shop not a showroom and it will be infinitely nicer to work on either way. I've found Amazon reviews to be pretty worthless myself lol.
Yeah, I’m still glad we did it. Like you said, it’s a shop and it’s going to get beat on. Disappointing but better than carpet!
why did you not use fans to move the air around increasing your drying. Also help with odors.
Didn’t even think about it honestly. The odor was not an issue, I never felt the need for more airflow or a mask. It may have helped with drying but that wasn’t something they the instructions suggested or required.
Epoxy does not "dry". There is no water in it. Water is the enemy of epoxy. Epoxy cures by the chemical reaction of part A and Part B. A fan will do nothing to speed up the chemical reaction. The floor in this video was acid etched which introduced water into the concrete. Concrete will absorb water like a sponge, and although may seem dry, the pores may still have moisture, which will effect adhesion of the epoxy. I would have suggested to wait 30 days after the acid etch step to ensure a dry floor and/or use a dehumidifier to speed up the process. Actually, with all that carpet adhesive.. I probably would have recommended bead blasting or diamond grinding that floor instead of acid etching.
Did my floor alone at 61. First color coat was great. Did heavy chips. But I epoxy filled all cracks previously and sanded. Color was even. Had plenty of material. On the clear coat not so good. Tried to do 4 by 4 areas. Roller held alot of material. Tried to lesson at roller pan. Eeeeh! 1 box did between half and 3/4s second box had little left. Sand additive useless. Kept stiring before each 4x4. Goes straight to bottom looks like you have more material than you do. This do to sand at bottom even after stir. Second box added sand a little at a time. Again straight to the bottom. Suggest sprinkling sand on area of tray where you roll the roller so it will pick up before painting. Having to go back to by second kit ended up missing an area near a wall. It all looked wet. Self leveling? Floor not perfectly level tended to puddle in a couple places even after rolling out in w & m pattern. Over all looks good but I am not a pro. Could be better.
Looks like you didn't hit the floor with the solution to dry out the concrete either tho the concrete was dry to the touch it was probably still wet
Hmmm, I don’t remember getting a solution to dry it in the packaging? I’ll have to go back and look
Boost Brothers Garage you buy that separate
with that floor you needed to do a diamond grind.
Next time rent a grinder from Sherwin-Williams and use H&C Shieldcrete XL or General Polymers 3746. Involve a local Sherwin Williams rep, they will be a part of your project free.
If you cant grind I strongly recommemd two coats of Armorseal RexThane. No mixing and beautiful finish thats easy to redo in the future if you want to.
If you can hear the roller there isn't enough paint
Grind the concrete next time
This... All of that mastic and old adhesive slows, or completely prevents, the curing of the catalyst and it off-gases away from the substrate instead of towards it. Like any job, preparation is at least 75% of the work. If it takes two hours to apply it should take 6+ hours to prep.
Always diamond grind first. the black glue residue is oil based, NOTHING will stick to it. look us up for the next one, our product batches are all the same color and same lot number. we have made a career out of replacing big box epoxy floors.
Prep, Prep, Prep. 1st. It didn't stick to the old adhesive becasue it just can't. It's that simple. 2nd It didn't cure due not being mixed well enough. When you think you have it mixed, mix it again. 3rd. The color was off because al the kits needed to be boxed together before it was applied.
By having it professionally installed, you avoid all these issues. Experienced installers will tell you all the same things I have because they've seen it all before.
That’s fair, but this is sold as a DIY kit with DIY instructions. It is not marketed or sold as a kit to have installed professionally. I agree that we did not give it the best possible starting point for success, but I think this is indicative of what other homeowners / hobbyists would run into.
If you went back over some spots with a second coat before it was cured that will lead to the improper dry or cure.
Hi, when you say boxed together, what do you mean exactly? Would you mix the bags, then pour into a bucket and mix again?
My 3 car garage STILL drying after 5 days, one side completely dry after 3 days ,other still tacky!
It’s so weird. Only thing I can guess is we didn’t mix it well enough but it sure seemed like we did!
Yep. Bad mixing
If epoxy doesn't dry, it's typically user error in mixing. One part is the hardener which if isn't mixed well, the other part doesn't dry
My advice, double the amount of product you buy mix it all in one shot in a bucket for 5 minute at low speed not to insert air bubble into the mix. Let it rest 5 minute. then apply not with a roller but a squeegee. I had never use that particular product but I dit paint industriel floor many time and that's the way we do it. Also by making it thicker it act as a self leveling
Also epoxy paint, even the best product that exist don't like acid environment on the long run like nitric acid that we use at work I'm no chemist but I think salted water is kind of acid. Every year we repaint certain area where the acid is used. So don't be surprised when the epoxy get damage if you park your car every day in the winter
Do you wanna sell the 914 porsche
Unfortunately that one is not for sale!
"Once again weve never done this" 😆
Did it show? Hahaha
Hmm. I think some sanding should have been added to the preparation. And a primer since your floor was so bad.